So I was pretty sold against projection TV's since I had generally heard their PQ was lower, and just don't want to deal with lightbulbs (if I did I would just buy a real projector, got plenty of space in my basement!). But then when I was at Best Buy I saw a great deal on the Mitsubishi wd-57731.... 57" 1080P for $1,199! Though I was pretty sold on a 50" 720p Plasma or maybe smaller LCD w/ 1080 p (I sit close to the screen so would really like to take advantage of 1080p [plus got a 360]).

This TV seems like a good deal, though many vendors have it for similar prices, I've seen some better "deals" but none seemed to excite me as much. I guess I have a hangup because I feel like this isn't the best TV for me, but it is so much cheaper than the other stuff I was looking at. Magnolia Hi-Fi had Samsungs last year top-of-the-line Plasma 720p in 50" for about $1,900, marked down from $3,000 something (confirmed that price as current price on Amazon in fact).... so deal wise I'm feeling like that is awesome.

Basically.... I am lost... what would you do? Don't be biased, I originally posted this in other forum because I had a feeling no matter where I go (Plasma, LCD, RP) most responses are going to be for one of those three respectively. But I ended up with no responses anyway lol (well like 1 or 2 that were mostly "go post in Plasma/RP/LCD").

Though the $1,190 price tag seems like the most TV for my money, I plan on financing it anyway and would like it to "last for a long time" so wouldn't mind spending the extra dough for a better set.

I mostly watch movies and play a ton of 360. TV placement is in large (true) basement with very little light. I currently have a 30" Toshiba HDTV but want to upgrade to 1080p and/or much larger. Optimally I would really like a full projector but not sure I want to commit to spending $350 every year to replace the bulb. Though I plan to travel out of the country and could take a projector with me...

Argh... you can see my dilema!

While I have a friend that has the 65" model and is happy, generally all of the reviews, including the owner's thread on this board, tend to rate that particular model rather low in comparison to both the other Mistubishi models and the direct competition.

I do have to question the price. Was it an open box/display model? Best Buy has cleared out that model for the 733 series, so there wouldn't normally be any new sets in their stores. Their clearance price around Memorial Day was 1399 for that TV. Any last year models I have seen at local Best Buy stores are all open box items and the 731 is no longer on their website.

Nope it was not, RP may not sell as well out here, maybe they only had a couple left or something too. Thanks for the response!

No problem. Had to ask. I've been fooled before at Best Buy........ :p

So if what you have heard is correct then perhaps the Mitsu is a great buy for the money, but if I don't mind spending more it may not be worth it?

I'm actually leaning back towards full projector, I found out the bulbs are $350 for the AX-100U (Panasonic) I am looking at which isn't too bad. I'd love a projector because I plan on travelling overseas for school and could in theory carry-on the projector and buy a screen overseas, and get to take my nice "TV" with me =D. But I can't get a AX-100U refurbished (only way I can afford it) locally which means if I get it I better like it because I am basically "stuck with it." I am a notorious returner/exchanger, even my 30" Toshiba was originally a 26" lol.

I have always felt it's best to go with what you think looks the best, and what your happy with. however the only problem with that is then people go out and buy some yucky looking LCD for $1k, and they could have bought a DLP for the same price, and much better PQ, but alas "THIN SELLS!!". :rolleyes:

I'm a proud owner of a Mits. 65" 731 series, the same one you are looking at, just 8" bigger, I say bigger is always better, TV's I'd say this can't be argued except to the point of how much room you have, which with you it sounds like you have a lot more room than I do.

It had it's issues about 30days after we got it, took us about 3 1/2 mo. total to get it resolved, a Month and 1/2 of which was spent in the shop waiting on parts.
But, once it came back, WOW!!! looks better than it did when it was new, the HD it's just incredible, it's like going from SD DVD to HD-DVD/BlueRay, amazing diff. in PQ. So it apparently had some more issues that we weren't aware of for lack of comparison from the time it was new.
Honestly, brand is unimportant in regards to quality, the shop here that picked it up, which is a very reputable shop, and has been in business for like 30+yrs. said that Mitsubishi TV's are some of the Best build quality wise, but they see them all in equally. Samsung's being the worst, great PQ at an Excellent Price, but such high repair rates, and the same things over, and over. So no one brand is immune to issues. I say use the heck out of it the 1st month you have it, that's what I did, I left it on like every day, most of the day, for a month+ straight,, thank goodness, otherwise it's problem might not have cropped up till who knows when.

You say you're a movie buff, I am to, although not much time for it these days. I'd say the black levels without an ambient light will disappoint, honestly all DLP's and LCD's have horrible black levels. But I must say that this model, even though it lacks any kind of auto or manual Iris control, it's black levels are quite acceptable under normal daytime viewing conditions, and when watching films/shows with a white reference point, thus making the black perceptively more inky than it really is.
You truly notice it when the lights go off, and the scenes change to reveal low light conditions on screen with much black, then you see it's Grey because it's saturated with light from the Bulb.

So many people go with the set's employing built in Iris's, this is great, except many have auto iris's, such as the WD-XX732, WD-XX734, WD-XX831, etc.. series. Which results in some funny results at scene changes where the screen is all dark, and the iris's aperture is tightened down making the black levels better, but then when say they pan over to a window, or a flashlight blares at you in a dark warehouse, or such scene, then the iris has to open up to let that light through so it doesn't appear subdued, or an off-white. This results in the once black scene, now suddenly shifting to Grey, then back again when the light source disappears. It can be quite annoying to many, but some will get used to it. And some may not even notice it, consciously at least.

So I'm glad I got the TV I did, I'll be adding a NDF (Neutral Density Filter) to solve the black issues, as well as learning to calibrate it myself.
Thus resulting in a much higher priced TV, for a lot less money, and without the annoyances.
Oh, I must also mention that most TV's over sharpen everything, and now-days you typically can't shut it off, even /w sharpness ALL THE WAY DOWN!
Some TV's such as the WD-XX732 and up, will have a feature name similarly to "Sharpe Edge" that you can turn on/off this helps to decrease, but not totally eliminate some of the pulsing that occurs in high detail HD. But it doesn't eliminate it.
My solution to that is build an I2C cable, to interface /w the TV, and disable it in the TV's Firmware, problem solved. This is something pro calibrators do even on the upper models that have the ability to shut that off in the user menu, as that function doesn't really shut it off completely, thus bypassing the horrible sharpness enhancement circuitry , it just reduces it, or changes the algorithm so it's not as noticeable, or pronounced. Thus the I2C solution.


I would say stay away from the plasmas, unless you have loads of cash to blow, and want to hire a pro calibrator, or do it yourself. I do like the more current crop of plasmas, but they just generate to much heat, and they look way, way to digital for my tastes.

LCD is out of the question, except for casual TV watching, and the occasional movie in non critical situations, visually. Say a Kid's TV, or bedroom, or something to flick on quick when company's over without firing up the big projector.

Hope this helps a bit, or at least give you more things to ponder, and investigate, research. MUHAHAHA!! :D

volo,

I'll give you the same advice I tried to give you in the other thread you had. READ. If you're curious about the Mitsubishi TV, find that owners thread and read the whole thing. If you're curious about a certain projector, find that owners thread and read the whole thing. That's the only way to find out information.

See THIS THREAD (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=665890) ? It has 18,000 posts and I've read them all and I don't even own a Samsung TV, but was thinking about purchasing one.

Same goes for THIS THREAD (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=584936) and THIS THREAD (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=812631) . I don't own any of those products, but have been thinking about them.

If you're going to spend a few thousand dollars on a product, IMO it's worth knowing as much as you can about that product. I spend 6-8 hours here reading threads for every post I make. It's about gathering information.

Now, to answer your question: With a light controlled basement, I wouldn't consider anything but a front projector. As to which projector, it all depends upon your budget. Spend some time researching them in that forum.

If you're going to seriously buy it, I'd check out the owners thread on this site. Pretty much any blemish it may have is generally exposed in the owners threads.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=722331&highlight=57731
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=688802&highlight=57731

hmmm thanks for all the info! My problem is every time I think to search a new place my semi-concluded mind get's metaphorically raped. I just checked Circuit City and wow some good looking deals! One thing for me to start looking into is if the component won't accept 1080p it becomes much less important, chances are I will be paying a buttload for the 1080p (unless it's LCD which I am leaning against) so won't be able to upgrade the 360 to an elite with HDMI for a long time.

Plasma
Panasonic 50" 1080p $1,899 (list $3,499)
Samsung 50" 720p $1,889 (list $2,299)
Hitachi 55" 720p $2,299 (list $3,499)

Projection
Sony 60" 1080p SXRD $2,099 (list $2,899)
Sony 50" 1080p LCD $1,599 (list $2,299)
Sony 50" 1080p SXRD $1,599 (list $2,299)
Samsung 50" 1080p DLP $1,999 (list $2,299)
Samsung 56" 1080p DLP $1,899 (list $2,299)

To top it off Circuit City looks like it might have the best financing deals around. To be honest that Panasonic 50" looks like some sweet stuff at 1080P and affordable. Though the Sony 60" RP, and Samsung 56" RP look decent too (though maybe not worth the price increase from the Mitsu- I need to search some reviews).

EDIT: Stew and Bro: Thanks, I saw that one but seemed like they were all talking about the same issues mostly (did a lot of skimming). I definately will do a lot of research, but I try and do some simple elmination before I get too involved. Part of this reason (as shown above) sometimes a great deal is simply found, I also have a pretty open attitude and think anything (even LCD) will impress me- I'm not locked into one technology, I don't think I would be dissapointed (as I can see the advantages to each technology) with any of 'em! Which is probably making it harder- would be simple if I was set on a single technology.

EDIT II: Well the 50" 1080p Plasma Panny seems to have so-so reviews from what seem to be fairly harsh review sites- wonder how the review would change at a $1,899 price tag though. The 60" Sony RP was really getting my hopes up until I started reading about the green-blob effect, which some posters said may be accentuated by a cold room- well this basement is probably 60 degrees when upstairs is 90 (it's 105 out). So that might be an issue to look into more.

Plasma
Panasonic 50" 1080p $1,899 (list $3,499)
Samsung 50" 720p $1,889 (list $2,299)
Hitachi 55" 720p $2,299 (list $3,499)

.......To be honest that Panasonic 50" looks like some sweet stuff at 1080P and affordable.


....EDIT II: Well the 50" 1080p Plasma Panny seems to have so-so reviews from what seem to be fairly harsh review sites- wonder how the review would change at a $1,899 price tag though. The 60" Sony RP was really getting my hopes up until I started reading about the green-blob effect, which some posters said may be accentuated by a cold room- well this basement is probably 60 degrees when upstairs is 90 (it's 105 out). So that might be an issue to look into more.

I don't know where you came up with the $1899 price for the 1080p 50" Panasonic plasma. The CC sale price is $3K, I suspect you were seeing the price for one of the 768p models. Even at the higher price the 1080p Panasonic is a good value, although the twice as expensive Pioneer 50" 1080p plasma is a little better performer.

Ron Jones

volo,

I'll give you the same advice I tried to give you in the other thread you had. READ. If you're curious about the Mitsubishi TV, find that owners thread and read the whole thing. If you're curious about a certain projector, find that owners thread and read the whole thing. That's the only way to find out information.

See THIS THREAD (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=665890) ? It has 18,000 posts and I've read them all and I don't even own a Samsung TV, but was thinking about purchasing one.

Same goes for THIS THREAD (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=584936) and THIS THREAD (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=812631) . I don't own any of those products, but have been thinking about them.

If you're going to spend a few thousand dollars on a product, IMO it's worth knowing as much as you can about that product. I spend 6-8 hours here reading threads for every post I make. It's about gathering information.


VERY good advice here. I think often times people start threads to see what people think about different sets as opposed to reading the owners threads. IMO, you usually get much more info from the owners threads than starting a separate thread. :)

I don't know where you came up with the $1899 price for the 1080p 50" Panasonic plasma. The CC sale price is $3K, I suspect you were seeing the price for one of the 768p models. Even at the higher price the 1080p Panasonic is a good value, although the twice as expensive Pioneer 50" 1080p plasma is a little better performer.

Ron Jones

Oh man you're right, I think I just check "my cart" and saw the Samsung 50" Plasma at $1,899 and got mixed up.

So I spent some time at Circuit City and took a friend with me. One set reallu stood out above the rest, the Toshiba 65HM167, 65" RP 1080p, at about $2,000. Though price isn't always the best indicator the biggest drawback I can find on this is it isn't that expensive (most the TV's I have been looking at are significantly more expensive, but on sale)... but maybe the fact that this thing isn't on massive sale just proves it's a good TV that can sell itself on quality.

Guess it's time to start analyzing my projector vs. rp vs. plasma a little bit more.

I would stick with Samsung or Mits for DLPs, not Toshiba since Tosh has announced it is abandoning DLP technology. It might therefore be difficult to get replacement parts down the road (those who bought Gateway DLPs a few years ago were left high and dry).

I would stick with Samsung or Mits for DLPs, not Toshiba since Tosh has announced it is abandoning DLP technology. It might therefore be difficult to get replacement parts down the road (those who bought Gateway DLPs a few years ago were left high and dry).

It's never simple is it lol :rolleyes:

Are DLP RP standard with the LCD lighting deal that lasts a lot longer, or should I be looking into if they have a short bulb life. If I need to worry about bulb life than there is no reason (for me) not to get a front projector over RP. Other than being in a stupid rental with stupid roomates don't really want to put it on a coffee table- but not real worried :o (assuming I can't mount to ceiling being a rental).

I would stick with Samsung or Mits for DLPs, not Toshiba since Tosh has announced it is abandoning DLP technology. It might therefore be difficult to get replacement parts down the road (those who bought Gateway DLPs a few years ago were left high and dry).

Unless you buy an extended warranty.

If parts aren't available to fix a set, the warranty will replace.

With price trends, you usually end up with a bigger/better set when this happens.

With Samsung or Mits, I would definitely buy an extended warranty for this technology!!!

With Samsung or Mits, I would definitely buy an extended warranty for this technology!!!
I think with this technology, any brand you buy you should look into an extended warranty.

I think with this technology, any brand you buy you should look into an extended warranty.
True with any of these RP technologies (DLP, LCOS, or LCD).