I have the Pearl and have just finished off installing a Da-Lite electric screen, which I ordered with the Video Projector Interface (VPI) option. The VPI should lower the screen when the PJ is turned on and raise it when the PJ is turned off.

The problem: I could not make it work.

The questions: What is your experience with the Pearl controlling an electric screen? What could be my problem?

Facts:

1. The Da-Lite VPI consists of a relais which is trigerred by a 12V signal. If I apply 12V from an external power supply to the VPI (through the connector which should go into the PJ), the screen works just fine. The relais requires a current of about 80mA (measured by me with a digital meter).

2. The PJ indeed outputs 12V at the trigger output but, as soon as I connect the VPI to it (through the same connector in item 1 above), the voltage drops down to about 350mV and the screen is not lowered.

So, could it be a problem with the 12 V power supply in the projector? The current absorbed by the VPI (80mA) is quite small and I don't believe it is larger than what the PJ can supply. Or is it?... There is no reference about the maximum current in the Pearl's instruction manual. The only things listed in the Pearl's Specifications section (page 61 of the Operating Instructions) are:

TRIGGER: Minijack
Power on: DC 12V, output impedance: 4.7 kilohms
Power off: 0V.

Please help if you have any ideas, at this point I am clueless and on the verge of desperation. Thank you.

Michael

see: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=5367508#post5367508

It is about the HS51, but the pearl manual has the same specs for the trigger.

PS - memory is a funny thing, I don't use the trigger on my Pearl, why do I remember this? I can't remember where I left my wallet, but I remember this. Go figure.

I just ran into the problem too. 4.7k impedence in your Pearl 12 volts won't give you nearly enough current for any normal relay.

I just finished building a power supply to mount inside my Dalite Contour screen with the VPI interface. Using an Avemco TE62001-ND toroid rated at 1.6 watts, 9 vac out.
Then cap diodes fuses and NPN transistor to interface from the Sony. Currently trying to make it all fit into the wiring box! Transformer fits fine at back behind the motor plug. The capacitor I used is a bit bulky with 10,000 ufd.

Sony needs to supply well under 1 ma now and relay gets about 11 volts and 75 ma.

Got the transfomer and ceramic fuses from DigiKey. Rest locally or my scrap parts bin.

For whatever reason, Sony projectors 12volt triggers have always had issues. They have their own standard which unfortuantely doesnt work with any of the screen manufacturers. I could be wrong and mixing up my screen companies, but I think that Dalite has a new type of system that should work with any 12volt trigger. If you mention Sony to them, they now about the issue

I always assumed that these projectors had dry contacts to trigger the screen. Good to know!

I ran into the same problem with my Sony Ruby, the 12v trigger doesnt provide enough current, a quick call to Niles solved that heres the solution and it works flawlessly, it will amplify the current from the weak sony 12v trigger circuitry

http://www.nilesaudio.com/product.php?prodID=MSU140&recordID=Main%20System%20Units&categoryID=Ingenious%20IR&catcdID=5&prdcdID=FG01002

Most trigger receptors require 10 to 20 times the amount of current a Sony trigger puts out. The voltage is correct.

Do a little research in the forum. This has been discussed and solved. Nothingwron with the Sony. The cheapest Niles IR repeater solves the problem You send the trigger wires into the repeater box (which ispowered by a wall wart) and hook the output up to the trigger receptor on your screen. Th Niles puts out a nice correct constant voltage and has ample current for anything out there. The Sony trigger is constant on when the projector is turned on. The trigger current stays on until the projector completly shuts off. The screen will stay down until the fan shuts off. Usually about three minutes after you shut the lamp off. :)

Also you will need a mono mini rca you can purchase at Radio shack to attach to the trigger wire coming out of the Sony to plug into the Niles.

Mark and funlvr1965,

Thank you (and everybody else) for your responses.

The link posted by funlvr1965 points to an IR remote repeater. Also, you Mark, mention about an IR repeater, too. I am quite confused as how could an IR repeater be used as 12V trigger booster. How would you connect it? Where is the 12V "low current" input from the PJ and where is the 12V "high current" output to the screen?

I followed the link and the MSU140 IR Repeater has two power inputs, one IR input and four IR outputs. I am sorry, but if you could please elaborate on how to connect this device, it would be greatly appreciated.

Michael

You need a Niles MSU 250. Go to nilesaudio.com and look up IR repeater systems then select ir main systems. You will not be using the IR features here. Blow up the picture of the unit. You will see a status in jack and a 12v output jack on the right back of unit (looking from the top view picture). Hook your trigger output from the sony into the status in using a cable with two mini mono rcas. One into the Sony and one into the status in. Same type of hook up from the 12V out on the niles to your screen trigger in. Plug in the niles power supply. Enjoy. If you need one of these, they are very cheap. i am not at my store but the price is around $50.PM me if you like or need further info.

Thanks Mark you beat me to it, I have the larger and more expensive niles but the msu 250 will do the same thing, it really saved my ass when I had the ruby and the dalite highpower electric screen (which I still have)

I just set up a Sony VW-80 with a Da-Lite Designer Contour Electrosol (and VPI). I bought this (http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10218&cs_id=1021802&p_id=5583&seq=1&format=2) cable from Monoprice. It works perfectly with no extra equipment needed.