Hi freaks,

we wanna do a setup on a 2:35.1 screen with constant height.

How is the best way to manage it ?
We got troubles adjusting the H size to fit 16/9 !

Should we start doing a 16/9 with minimal phosphor usage and the raise the setting on H size ?


thanks
ElTopo

Is it a Marquee?

Set up the projector so you have maximum raster usage horizontally and then divide the screen width with 2.35 and decrease the vertical size until you reach that height.

You should probably run an 2.35:1 resolution as well and that resolution will be different depending on which projector you are using.

Well, this should get you started:

http://archive.avsforum.com/avs-vb/forumdisplay.php?forumid=117

I use a VP50 with my NEC 1352LC, the output resolution is 1920x800p, this is 2.40:1 version of 1080p, thus with all 2.40:1 HD sources like D-Theater, HD-DVD and Blu-Ray, you get a perfect 2.40:1 image, no scaling or etc.

2.35:1 is 817p and 2.40:1 is 800p, I went with the later to be exact as 1920 / 2.35:1 is not a even number, its 817.02

my screen is the Draper cineperm and the NEC has enough height adjustment to hit a 2.40:1 size

people may say 2.40:1 uses less raster and is not ideal, not the case at all in my situation, I view 90% 2.40:1 movies, so I am using the same amount of raster in this setup as I would a 1.78:1 screen showing a letterboxed 2.40:1 image

-Gary

I use a VP50 with my NEC 1352LC, the output resolution is 1920x800p, this is 2.40:1 version of 1080p, thus with all 2.40:1 HD sources like D-Theater, HD-DVD and Blu-Ray, you get a perfect 2.40:1 image, no scaling or etc.

2.35:1 is 817p and 2.40:1 is 800p, I went with the later to be exact as 1920 / 2.35:1 is not a even number, its 817.02

my screen is the Draper cineperm and the NEC has enough height adjustment to hit a 2.40:1 size

people may say 2.40:1 uses less raster and is not ideal, not the case at all in my situation, I view 90% 2.40:1 movies, so I am using the same amount of raster in this setup as I would a 1.78:1 screen showing a letterboxed 2.40:1 image

-Gary

Hey there big dog! Nice to see you stopping by. :)

Will do some testing with different resolutions.

thx for the input :D

@Gary: What screen width do you use ?

Projector is a Barco Graphics 808 w/HD-144 and P16 tubes.

ElTopo

Hey there big dog! Nice to see you stopping by. :)

what up dude? :)

I'm stopping by looking at them Fifth Element screenies for sure :cool:

El, my width is 83"

I had a 808 before, I don't think it could hit a 2.35:1 height with it's vertical size, although with the VP50 and total control of the output image (ala powerstrip type cotrols) you could do it easily

-Gary

Ok, I "accidently" :) messed up my painted "screen" so instead of redoing the 16/9 screen. I'm going for a 2.35:1 or 2.40:1 screen as I have wanted to do that for some time.

Got a BD 808, what resolution would you suggest using ?
Can the BD808 cope with the geometry or should I simply use a 16/9 setup and then blank out the off-screen area ?
Using an HTPC, zoom player if that impact things.

Sorry folks to butt in. This is where I get confused. I currently have my htpc connected to my RPTV which is somewhat similar to a CRT. When I watch different hd contents like 2.40, 2.35 or 1.78, I don't have to modify anything on my tv. I do all the aspect ratio changes via the software player. Everything is displayed properly, no short people or wide people :). So on a CRT, what needs to be modified to allow you to watch a 2:40?

I also would like to clear the confusion about CRT which is going on in my head right now and maybe you guys can help me. Do you have to modify the CRT everytime you watch movies with different encoded aspect ratios?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks! :)

If you have a RPTV the screen is fixed, meaning you have the enclosure and that AR is what you can use.
On the other hand you can still display a 2.35:1 AR movie on a 16:9 set, it just means that you get black borders at the top and bottom.
If you have a 2.35:1 setup you will "fill out" a movie on the screen as if watching a 1:78:1 movie on a 16:9 setup, meaning no top/bottom borders.
Since most movies is shot at 2.35:1/2.40:1 AR anyway, it makes sense to use that AR if have the ability.

If you have a RPTV the screen is fixed, meaning you have the enclosure and that AR is what you can use.
On the other hand you can still display a 2.35:1 AR movie on a 16:9 set, it just means that you get black borders at the top and bottom.
If you have a 2.35:1 setup you will "fill out" a movie on the screen as if watching a 1:78:1 movie on a 16:9 setup, meaning no top/bottom borders.
Since most movies is shot at 2.35:1/2.40:1 AR anyway, it makes sense to use that AR if have the ability.

I'm very aware of that black borders, letter boxes, etc. What I was asking about is that, if you have to modify any settings on the CRT pj if you want to watch 2.35 movie, then do you have to modify it again if lets say you want to watch(same day) a movie with a different aspect ratio say 16:9..

Nope.

Have been using 1280x720 in a 16:9 setup for three years now so no you don't need to adjust any settings (unless you want to of course) depending on the AR of the movie.
So if you have a 16:9 AR setup, you get borders top/bottom on e.g. 2.35:1 movies. If you use a 2.35:1 setup, you get borders left/right if watching a 16:9 movie. But as I said, most movies use a aspect ration above 1.78/1.85:1.
You can if you want to complicate things use both setups but then you most likely want a 4-way masking system, which is kind of expensive :)

The two different setup methods are also refered to, "constant height" for 2:35:1 or "constant width" for 16:9 setup.

Nope.

Have been using 1280x720 in a 16:9 setup for three years now so no you don't need to adjust any settings (unless you want to of course) depending on the AR of the movie.
So if you have a 16:9 AR setup, you get borders top/bottom on e.g. 2.35:1 movies. If you use a 2.35:1 setup, you get borders left/right if watching a 16:9 movie. But as I said, most movies use a aspect ration above 1.78/1.85:1.
You can if you want to complicate things use both setups but then you most likely want a 4-way masking system, which is kind of expensive :)

The two different setup methods are also refered to, "constant height" for 2:35:1 or "constant width" for 16:9 setup.

Based from what you said above, AR is also being configured on the CRT. If so, then everything is clear now for me. It's because, on my RPTV I don't modify any setting for the AR.

Thanks.

You're welcome, just look at it as the difference between 4:3 and 16:9 but go one step further.

Sorry to bump this, but has no one used a 808 in a 2.35:1/2.40:1 setup and can share some experiences ?

I'm in the process of setting up a BG808s, and the v size will barely accommodate 16:9. I'm using a bit less than optimal H, though, due to wear, at the moment. However, the additional H size if the wear wasn't present wouldn't get me to 2.35 or 2.4, I don't think.

If I understand correctly, the main reason to run CIH 2.35 or 2.4 is to lower the bandwidth the PJ has to deal with - there shouldn't be any visual difference aside from CIH being a bit sharper. But I'm not quite sure about that, as I believe that bandwidth may be somewhat data-dependent - IE, sending 817 scanlines of real data and the rest blank in a 1080p setup might be sharper than sending 1080 lines of real data. Anybody have any real knowledge on that?

The other question is whether an 808 can resolve 817p much better than 1080p anyway - if the beam size and phosphor resolution are the limiting factors the bandwidth won't make any difference anyway.

Sorry to bump this, but has no one used a 808 in a 2.35:1/2.40:1 setup and can share some experiences ?I think there is no master pot for V size.

You can try to make vertical porches bigger from source.

If that doesn't help or you want better solution there is 2k ohm trim pots for R/B V amplitude nex to v sift pots in vertical deflection board. Those are used to make rasters as high what green is. Try first if R or B pot have enough adjustment range for 2.35:1 height. If yes, then you can ad similar pot to green line or measure what size resistor you need for green...

In Datas R7622695 board that green "vsize resistor" is R49, originally 10k ohm 0.4W metal foil.

Everyone knows that the absolutely best way to setup for 2.40 is to get two projectors and blend them. Not cheap, not easy, but by far the best and you get to use all the raster, all of the time.