Ok, I have been reading several threads on this site, current and past. I've noticed a number of folks are mounting their flat screen TV's on the wall and asking about how and what cables to run.
Well, many of the posts also have questions and replies regarding the power cord. I read many post that some thought or could make it work with running the cord in the wall. I'm concerned when I read those with the danger in doing that is actually high. The number 1 cause for most household fires is old or faulty extension cords that dry out over time and short out.
The reason for this thread is to alert others of the danger in doing so, be safe not cheap and stupid.

For the record, the NEC National Electric Code does not allow flexible cords that carry electricity to be in or through a wall.

Here's the CODE:

NEC ARTICLE 400 Flexible Cords and Cables
I. General 400.1 Scope.
This article covers general requirements, applications, and construction specifications for flexible cords and flexible cables.
400.8 Uses Not Permitted.
Flexible cords and cables shall not be used for the following:

(1)As a substitute for the fixed wiring of a structure

(2)Where run through holes in walls, structural ceilings, suspended ceilings, dropped ceilings, or floors

(3)Where run through doorways, windows, or similar openings

(4)Where attached to building surfaces
Exception: Flexible cord and cable shall be permitted to be attached to building surfaces in accordance with the provisions of 368.8.

(5)Where concealed by walls, floors, or ceilings or located above suspended or dropped ceilings

(6)Where installed in raceways, outside of the wall, floor, ceiling except as otherwise permitted in this Code

So, I'm posting this to hopefully keep you and others safe.
There are two products on the market designed specifically for in-wall electrical wiring and outlets to meet NEC CODE.

One is made by Panamax it's $299.95
www.panamax.com/products.cfm?group=22&sec=detail&id=221&ly=h

The other is PowerBridge it's $49.00
http://powerbridgesolution.com/aboutpowerbridge.html

They both provide the solution needed to meet CODE. I have the PowerBridge myself and they offer different wall plate colors and cheaper.

Look at these products, they are the only way to meet CODE and protect your TV and your home from potential damage.

FYI note, if you do decide to run your power cord or an extension cord in the wall and it causes a fire, your home/renter insurance will probably NOT pay any damage claim as their investigators will determine a code violation.

Before you all hit me with the question regarding your A/V cables... They are LOW voltage and not under the NEC code. However, I will stress that some areas local building codes may require CL2/3 rated inwall low voltage cables, especially if you are building new and the home is due for an inspection.

Ok all that said, the other point to all this is to have your expensive TV protected by a real surge protector/conditioner, and both of these products will allow that too, so, extra bonus!

kinky linky's

kinky linky's

Funny!! just fixed them... I don't know what the heck.. good luck

would running the av cables right next to the romex in the wall cause interference.if you use the panamax the cables and power are very close.

would running the av cables right next to the romex in the wall cause interference.if you use the panamax the cables and power are very close.

You make a very good point regards to av cables running close to AC.. I don't really know for sure what the rule is, I've been told not too and keep them at least 8-10" apart and not run them in parallel. I also noticed on the panamax unit you have to buy those av connection modules separately.

I chose the Powerbridge over that Panamax mostly for price but also because it allowed me to keep my av cables separated from the AC. So good notice yourself!

I would be nervous about the heat not being able to escape mounted on the wall :eek:

I would be nervous about the heat not being able to escape mounted on the wall :eek:

? Heat? What heat? escape? Help me with this one... An electrcial outlet doesn't generate any heat. Both products are designed to meet NEC code using ROMEX inside the wall, just like every outlet and switch you have in your house, unless you have some kind of special thermal wiring I've never heard of..

? Heat? What heat? escape? Help me with this one... An electrcial outlet doesn't generate any heat. Both products are designed to meet NEC code using ROMEX inside the wall, just like every outlet and switch you have in your house, unless you have some kind of special thermal wiring I've never heard of..

I'm talking about the fans on the back of the plasma that cools the electronics and pushes the air out of the plasma. If it's smothered against the wall wont that = high temps, bad cooling :confused:

I guess that all depends on where the fans are located. The Panny I have has a several fans mounted on the top back.

Good information.

I paid a certified electrician $150 to come out and run an outlet to the middle of the wall where I will mount my Plasma. I felt having a qualified electrician was worth the money, and I meet code if I ever sell the house.

It never even occured to me to try to run an extension cord IN the wall, that just sounds WAY too dangerous.

Good thread.

Can someone further explain the parts needed for the low voltage side? What type of boxes, conduit, wall plates, connectors, etc... Pictures would be great. The PowerBridge is a great solution for high voltage, but I went to HD to figure out the low voltage parts and left empty handed.

I chose the Powerbridge over that Panamax mostly for price but also because it allowed me to keep my av cables separated from the AC. So good notice yourself!Understood. I went with the Panamax units and their modules which make for a very neat arrangement and have not had any problems with them to date.

I'm talking about the fans on the back of the plasma that cools the electronics and pushes the air out of the plasma. If it's smothered against the wall wont that = high temps, bad cooling :confused:

Zues,

Ok, now I understand your concern. First the TV on the wall is not actually going to be completely flat against the wall and the minimum distance I've ever seen for any wall mount is just over an inch. Any FP TV I've seen will still dissipate heat even on the wall or the manufacturers wouldn't make the mounting hole on the back.

Any heat coming from the back of the TV would have nothing to do with the electrical outlet in anyway. There are ten's of thousands of wall mounted TV's and I've never read, heard or seen any posts that heat on the wall from a TV has ever been an issue.

So I hope I've helped your thoughts on this. Good day!

Question:

A friend is wall-mounting his TV and is just going to run Romex through a hole in the wall and have it pop out in another spot. In other words, the Romex will not terminate in an outlet at the top/bottom of the run, but will instead just pop out of the wall. He will then add a female plug connector at the top to plug the TV into, and then a male end at the bottom to plug into the surge protector.

I know this is not up to code, but is it actually dangerous? The only cable that is actually in the wall is Romex, he's not running a normal power cord or extension cord in-wall.

Question:

A friend is wall-mounting his TV and is just going to run Romex through a hole in the wall and have it pop out in another spot. In other words, the Romex will not terminate in an outlet at the top/bottom of the run, but will instead just pop out of the wall. He will then add a female plug connector at the top to plug the TV into, and then a male end at the bottom to plug into the surge protector.

I know this is not up to code, but is it actually dangerous? The only cable that is actually in the wall is Romex, he's not running a normal power cord or extension cord in-wall.

Oh boy.... WHY do people think short cuts are a good idea??

Very bad idea in my opinion, ROMEX is not designed to have plugs installed on them and it MAY be an NEC violation, that I'm not sure of, but will try to ask my electricain buddy.
I will bet ROMEX just sticking out of the wall not terminated to an actual outlet receptical is not to code.

So why do it at all? Electricity is not something you "play" with or just "rig" together, especially when lives and property are at stake. Does your friend have any children in the house that could come in contact with this "romex rig"? Ok, I'm on a soap box now and I'm sorry, I'll get off.

Doing what your friend is speculating, will not only look crappy, but ROMEX is stiff and not flexible to do what your saying and will be a real pain to make work and look even close to anything "professional".

Do it right or don't do it at all.... the PowerBridge is only $50.00!!! why try to cheapo out on this?

Maybe I'm missing it i but how does the PowerBridge work differently from the outlet that I installed behind the TV?

Maybe I'm missing it i but how does the PowerBridge work differently from the outlet that I installed behind the TV?

Hey VidPro,

Well since I have no idea what type of outlet you have behind your TV now, I'm just going to guess it's just a standard outlet that is either "branched" with romex from another nearby outlet or a outlet that is like all the others in your home that are connected with other outlets in that room/area and part of the actual circuit at the panel.

Ok, so nothing wrong with that, I'm sure if it was installed by an electrician then it's code compliant.

Ok, the reason I was so excited about finding the Powerbridge, I wanted to have my TV protected by my Pure AV power surge/conditioner/UPS console that I spent a few hundred bucks on and have connected to all my AV equipment.

When I goggled looking for what I wanted I found the panamax and the Powerbridge units. Well, of course since they both achieve the same result I was looking for and both are NEC code compliant, I went with the Powerbridge, mainly for cost reasons ($300 vs $50) and I didn't need the cable modules that are allot $$ extra anyway with the panamax.

The MAIN reason the Powerbridge and the Panamax units are different than your standard outlet is they have the ability to allow you to plug into surge protectors and power conditioners (Go to the websites and see how they connect), which I can see a demonstratable picture difference with clean power connected.
Your outlet has "dirty" power and is not protecting your expensive HDTV, unless you have some kind of whole house surge protection.

Hope I answered your question...
(This is actually kinda fun doing all this, I'm learning allot)

Oh boy.... WHY do people think short cuts are a good idea??

Very bad idea in my opinion, ROMEX is not designed to have plugs installed on them and it MAY be an NEC violation, that I'm not sure of, but will try to ask my electricain buddy.
I will bet ROMEX just sticking out of the wall not terminated to an actual outlet receptical is not to code.
....

Do it right or don't do it at all.... the PowerBridge is only $50.00!!! why try to cheapo out on this?

It's not about money, it's more about him not wanting to chop too many more holes in the wall and to save time.

Anyway, I know it's not up to code, but my question was IS IT DANGEROUS? There are no kids in the house, the "looking crappy" thing isn't a concern because the holes are hidden behind the TV and console, and the code thing isn't a concern because my friend doesn't really care and will just spackle the holes when he sells the house.

I totally understand your concern, and I see why it's dangerous to run, say, an extension cord inside a wall, but IS IT DANGEROUS to run Romex through a wall and have it pop out of holes on either end? There is zero exposed wire inside the walls.

It's not about money, it's more about him not wanting to chop too many more holes in the wall and to save time.

Anyway, I know it's not up to code, but my question was IS IT DANGEROUS? There are no kids in the house, the "looking crappy" thing isn't a concern because the holes are hidden behind the TV and console, and the code thing isn't a concern because my friend doesn't really care and will just spackle the holes when he sells the house.

I totally understand your concern, and I see why it's dangerous to run, say, an extension cord inside a wall, but IS IT DANGEROUS to run Romex through a wall and have it pop out of holes on either end? There is zero exposed wire inside the walls.

hey batpig... (great "name")

Well, in asking my buddy regarding romex sticking out of the wall, he's not thrilled about that and would of course never do it himself, nor attach plugs on to romex.
It would not pass inspection by any electrical inspector, for sure.
However, he can't foresee any actual "danger" in doing it, and no kids and no one else would have the ablility to mess with anything, then do what he wants, it will carry electricity and as long as it's actual romex type wire actually inside the wall, then no danger in that part anyway.

Hope that helped...

I totally understand your concern, and I see why it's dangerous to run, say, an extension cord inside a wall, but IS IT DANGEROUS to run Romex through a wall and have it pop out of holes on either end? There is zero exposed wire inside the walls.If your buddy is going to put holes in the wall, why not just cut a hole for a box and mount it to a stud (connect the other end to an existing outlet)? Good chance that if it's in a logical location for wall-mounting a TV, the next owner will appreciate it already being there (selling point....minor one, but if the prospective buyer ain't so handy, it will score points).

Me, I just let my cord hang, because I'm only renting. If it were my place, everything would be in the wall. It's not hard to do, just make sure you kill power to the outlets on the wall you're working on.

Panamax also has something similar to Powerbridge. I use this little known device from Panamax, since most dealers try to sell you the expensive stuff. The Model Number is MIW-POWER. It is a surge protected AC outlet and is fully code compliant. I have used it for both my HT Projector as well as my wall mounted 46" LCD. No problems at all.

http://www.panamax.com/Literature/PDF/MIW%20Fam%20Fact%20Sht-1.pdf

Cost is $49.95 direct from Panamax.

Steve

Panamax also has something similar to Powerbridge. I use this little known device from Panamax, since most dealers try to sell you the expensive stuff. The Model Number is MIW-POWER. It is a surge protected AC outlet and is fully code compliant. I have used it for both my HT Projector as well as my wall mounted 46" LCD. No problems at all.

http://www.panamax.com/Literature/PDF/MIW%20Fam%20Fact%20Sht-1.pdf

Cost is $49.95 direct from Panamax.

Steve

Steve, that's only one side of the system, that's only an expensive recessed outlet, that's not the complete solution that has the more expensive inlet part, that panamax is charging an extra $249.00 for. That part in your link is just an outlet with a slot to add a cable module and can only be used if you "branch" it from another existing outlet. Read the specs, it's nothing as it by itself, other than an expensive electrical outlet to plug your TV into.

The problem I found was the other hard to find end, the inlet, can't find them at the hardware stores, or even very easy on-line by itself.
The Powerbridge is still a better deal as far as I'm concerned, you get the whole kit system, the inlet and the outlet and a connecting power cord with instructions for $49.00... ?? so why is the panamax a better deal? Yeah it says it has surge protection built-in but look at the specs, not much more than a cheap surge strip I use on my kids TV.

Hey VidPro,

Well since I have no idea what type of outlet you have behind your TV now, I'm just going to guess it's just a standard outlet that is either "branched" with romex from another nearby outlet or a outlet that is like all the others in your home that are connected with other outlets in that room/area and part of the actual circuit at the panel.

Ok, so nothing wrong with that, I'm sure if it was installed by an electrician then it's code compliant.

Ok, the reason I was so excited about finding the Powerbridge, I wanted to have my TV protected by my Pure AV power surge/conditioner/UPS console that I spent a few hundred bucks on and have connected to all my AV equipment.

When I goggled looking for what I wanted I found the panamax and the Powerbridge units. Well, of course since they both achieve the same result I was looking for and both are NEC code compliant, I went with the Powerbridge, mainly for cost reasons ($300 vs $50) and I didn't need the cable modules that are allot $$ extra anyway with the panamax.

The MAIN reason the Powerbridge and the Panamax units are different than your standard outlet is they have the ability to allow you to plug into surge protectors and power conditioners (Go to the websites and see how they connect), which I can see a demonstratable picture difference with clean power connected.
Your outlet has "dirty" power and is not protecting your expensive HDTV, unless you have some kind of whole house surge protection.

Hope I answered your question...
(This is actually kinda fun doing all this, I'm learning allot)

Thanks! I did the electrical work myself. There is an outlet lower on the wall directly under where the set is hanging. I branched off that outlet.

Question:

A friend is wall-mounting his TV and is just going to run Romex through a hole in the wall and have it pop out in another spot. In other words, the Romex will not terminate in an outlet at the top/bottom of the run, but will instead just pop out of the wall. He will then add a female plug connector at the top to plug the TV into, and then a male end at the bottom to plug into the surge protector.

I know this is not up to code, but is it actually dangerous? The only cable that is actually in the wall is Romex, he's not running a normal power cord or extension cord in-wall.

This doesn't make any sense at all... If he's going to go this far, why not run romex,14/2 or 12/2 from the existing receptacle to a new one behind the tv with a code approved box. If the wire is going to be there, why not wire into a new box and receptacle?

This doesn't make any sense at all... If he's going to go this far, why not run romex,14/2 or 12/2 from the existing receptacle to a new one behind the tv with a code approved box. If the wire is going to be there, why not wire into a new box and receptacle?

It might cost him $5 for a box and plug. You can get remodel boxes for this very purpose.

Doing things right is never easy and usually requires an extra trip or two to the hardware store. People are lazy.

Bingo, flood has it.

Anyway, he just moved into his place and wants a quick solution that won't be dangerous. There's nothing to prevent him from widening the hole at a later date and actually installing the box and outlet, and he may just do that sometime in the near future. But this is his current plan, and I just want to make sure he's not going to burn his house down.

He probably won't burn his house down ... hmmmm ... but on second thought anyone lazy enough to try to do it this way ... probably will wind up screwing something up anyway. So, on second thought he just might set SOMETHING on fire. :eek:

He probably won't burn his house down ... hmmmm ... but on second thought anyone lazy enough to try to do it this way ... probably will wind up screwing something up anyway. So, on second thought he just might set SOMETHING on fire. :eek:

Thanks for your comment bigmjh.. I know, I don't understand some people when the short cut and not spending a few dollars to do it right, especially when it comes to safety, meeting code for electrical, even though he's at least using ROMEX in the wall, and even making it look nice. This guy must have some $$ if he has an HDTV and putting it on the wall, so who knows.. Thanks for your words, hopefully others read all these posts and realize short cuts are dumb and dangerous..

Would I be correct if I said that the Power Bridge kit is simple two Old Work boxes, two single recessed clock receptacles, and two face-plates, plus a 36" male-male extension cord? (Romex not included.)

Why buy the "kit" for $50?

Your description is not accurate at all. Did you even look at the website and the pictures?
It does not have 2 recessed "clock receptacles", it has 1 recessed outlet for behind the TV and the other is a recessed POWER-IN for a male-female cord to send power through the system, when plugged in your surge protector. I looked for one and they don't exist in the hardware stores and the one I did find at a electrical supply place wanted $28.00 just for the one part, not attached to any plate.

No, it is not a male-male cord, that would be VERY dangerous, and would not be NEC code compliant!

Why buy the kit for $50.00? One, that's cheap if you ask my opinion.

Well, in my opinion, the other alternative is the panamax for $299.95 that does the same thing basically, with a few add-on items that cost more $$ to take advantage of.
The other, you can't buy the main part of the Powerbridge, the power-in plate at any hardware store I looked for it.

Why try to piece it all together yourself when even if you could find all the parts, you would still need to buy all the parts, drill out plates,,, ect. Wouldn't save much and the Powerbridge kit comes complete with everything all ready to go, with instructions and in different wall plate colors, some you can't find in the stores.

It's like, do you make your own av cables, when you can, but why?

Your description is not accurate at all. Did you even look at the website and the pictures?
It does not have 2 recessed "clock receptacles", it has 1 recessed outlet for behind the TV and the other is a recessed POWER-IN for a male-female cord to send power through the system, when plugged in your surge protector. ...

Reading thru your previous posts leaves me wondering how you reached the conclusion that you are entitled to answer simple questions with sarcasm and ridicule. You would seem a long way from being so entitled based on your posts. This thread started off as a seeming well intended effort to help and educate and it didn't last very long in that venue. :rolleyes:

It was not apparent to me from your description and answers that the power input recep has male posts - I do see that now. Goggle on " male electrical receptacle " and you'll get numerous sources for under $8 for such a recep.

Oh yeah, I don't do A/V cables because I don't have the tools nor the knowledge. I also don't spend $50 for $15 worth of common electrical fittings. :rolleyes:

Bye

So what are the options of surge protecting your tv if you're not going with Powerbridge or other, given that you already have a plug installed (by electrician)? Just plug in the tv and hope for the best?

I've never used a surge protector on anything. I live on teh edge! J/K

But out of curiosity has anyone here had something fried due to not having a surge protector?

saltidawg,

I'm sorry if you feel I was sarcastic... ?? Not sure how I was, and sorry... I was responding to your question and your description was inaccurate. I purchased one and have installed one, and yes I did look for the solution to my need to have my TV protected via my surge protector/conditioner.

After I received the Powerbridge, is when I thought of what the parts were and although I did not search for a "inlet" part on the internet, prior to buying it as you assume I may have, I happen to be passing an electrical supply place and the retail from them for an inlet was $28.00.

As to my description of the actual powerbridge parts themselves, I don't recall I made any mention specifically of what parts were in the kit and that's why I posted the websites of both prodcuts I found that solved my solution.
The reason for this entire post is to alert people wall mounting their TV's that there are products out there that are code compliant and not to "rig" together some parts that may not be.

You obviously must have the ability and knowledge to "make" this yourself, that's great. All the power to you, really.. I'm learning from this site too, so if you have all the places someone can go and buy all the parts to make this themselves, great! I'd love you to post it all, and everyone can decide to either make their own, or purchase a kit ready to go.

I've seen so many posts of people who want to make their own cables and things, and others looking for the "kit" versions and ready to go items, it's a persons choice and ability to determine what's best for them. All I've done here is show, there are really great solutions to having the electrical outlet that are NEC code compliant for in-the-wall power that also have the benefit of having the most expensive part of anyones system, usually, the TV protected by a surge protector.

Sure anyone can install just an outlet branched from another existing one or have an electrician come out and charge $100-300 to install one, but that doesn't allow the ability to connect a surge protector to the TV.

salidawg, I'm again sorry if my "tone" in my reply post was in some way negative towards you, it was not intentional, really..

There are really only 2 options for connecting a surge protector in an NEC compliant way.

You can run a clock outlet behind the plasma fed off another outlet that has a surge supressor built in. These are sometimes known as "hospital" outlets. They have a snap out surge supressor module in the outlet itself that can be replaced if it gets fried.

The other solution is to run that clock outlet to another MALE receptacle of some kind, such as the Powerbridge unit, or Leviton Multi-Lok connector. Then you use a cord with female connector on one end (in the case of the Powerbridge it can be just a normal extension cord) and male on the other that gets plugged into the surge protector.

Some have proposed running the plasma outlet to another outlet and then using a custom built male-male cable to plug it into a surge protector. This is an absurd thing to do. There is a reason they do not make male-male cables. If anyone unplugs the cable while the other end is still plugged into live power, they can be KILLED.

I'm amazed that people think hiring an electrician for $150 is a luxury when it comes to connecting their new $3000 TV. Unless you really know what you are doing, or don't mind getting killed or burning your house down, it's best to leave electrical work to licensed electricians.

Hi RaveD..

Thanks for posting. Question for you... The "hospital" outlet with the built in surge protector you're talking about, I've tried to find it and I'm not sure I'm looking in the right places.
I'm very curious as to what level protection (joules) it has and is it enough for protecting a Flat Panel TV. Do you have a link, or know the price?
I would imagine that outlet would be "branched" from an existing outlet or direct wired to the circuit/panel?

I would doubt it has any kind of a/c power conditioning... ???

That's one of the biggies for me was the Powerbridge allowed me to plug my expensive LCD in to it. Clean power really made a huge difference in my picture quality, more noticable than any hyper-expensive component/HDMI cable I compared. So, over all having a Powerbridge plugged into my Pure AV surge/conditioner and now my LCD was well worth the $50.

I guess that's my point, yes there are apparently other ways to have a code compliant outlet with romex branched off another outlet, but you don't gain anything for protecting and having superior picture quality. Would you agree?

Thanks

The APC C2 may be an option if the standard outlet is already behind the set. It does surge and filtering.

I guess that's my point, yes there are apparently other ways to have a code compliant outlet with romex branched off another outlet, but you don't gain anything for protecting and having superior picture quality. Would you agree?

Yes ... if you want ultimate flexibility the Powerbridge solution is ideal because you can connect the TV to any external device you want: surge protector, power conditioner, or UPS.

If you're satisfied with just basic surge supression (and there is big debate on that issue) then you could go with the hospital outlet approach. Here is one example from Leviton. I got a similar outlet from another manufacturer for about $45.

Hospital Grade Surge IG (http://www.levitonhelpdesk.com/catalog/default.asp?frame=body&screen=productdisplaybottom&productnumber=8280-IGA&reckey=&ConnectRecKey=&RecKeyCompatibilityConnect=)

The APC C2 may be an option if the standard outlet is already behind the set. It does surge and filtering.

Sprocto4, thanks for the post, this is great for if you ALREADY have an outlet installed in the wall behind the TV.
I did look at one, like the one from Monster cable, but at the time they were REALLY expensive, ($200.00+) more than what I spent on my belkin Pure AV 5500 joule rated power conditioner that also fully protects all my AV equipment, with CLEAN power and the Powerbridge solution kit.

In my opinion, even if you have a regular outlet receptacle behind the TV or thinking about having an electrician install one and add a APC C2, think about the whole system and protection and the real costs involved. I think what I did was the better choice.

Thanks sprocto4 for the added info!

Yes ... if you want ultimate flexibility the Powerbridge solution is ideal because you can connect the TV to any external device you want: surge protector, power conditioner, or UPS.

If you're satisfied with just basic surge supression (and there is big debate on that issue) then you could go with the hospital outlet approach. Here is one example from Leviton. I got a similar outlet from another manufacturer for about $45.

Hospital Grade Surge IG (http://www.levitonhelpdesk.com/catalog/default.asp?frame=body&screen=productdisplaybottom&productnumber=8280-IGA&reckey=&ConnectRecKey=&RecKeyCompatibilityConnect=)

Thanks RaveD... I looked at that hospital grade outlet you posted the link for ... yes, that is another code compliant solution... Thanks for bringing it to everyone attention.

I just want to point out, for $45.00, that leviton HGrade receptacle provides very little actual surge protection though, (only 320 joules) that's about what my cheapo surge strips do I have plugged in for my kids 13" TV/DVD combo unit.
I wouldn't trust my valuable LCD on my wall to be protected by it.

The leviton HGrade outlet is NOT a complete solution, it still needs to be hard wired or branched from another outlet or the panel, and most everywhere that needs to be done by an electrcian and probably will need a permit in some areas.

The Panamax and Powerbridge system kits are a complete outlet/inlet solution and DON'T hard wire to the panel or branch directly off another outlet for power. I was able to install the $50.00 Powerbridge myself, with no problems or concerns of being electricuted while installing it...

Just my additional .02 ....

Thanks RaveD... I looked at that hospital grade outlet you posted the link for ... yes, that is another code compliant solution... Thanks for bringing it to everyone attention.

I just want to point out, for $45.00, that leviton HGrade receptacle provides very little actual surge protection though, (only 320 joules) that's about what my cheapo surge strips do I have plugged in for my kids 13" TV/DVD combo unit.
I wouldn't trust my valuable LCD on my wall to be protected by it.

The leviton HGrade outlet is NOT a complete solution, it still needs to be hard wired or branched from another outlet or the panel, and most everywhere that needs to be done by an electrcian and probably will need a permit in some areas.

The Panamax and Powerbridge system kits are a complete outlet/inlet solution and DON'T hard wire to the panel or branch directly off another outlet for power. I was able to install the $50.00 Powerbridge myself, with no problems or concerns of being electricuted while installing it...

Just my additional .02 ....

Man has this been over analyzed or what, as far as getting power from an AV surge protector to an outlet behind the plasma.

Man has this been over analyzed or what, as far as getting power from an AV surge protector to an outlet behind the plasma.
No kidding...

If you don't want any sort of power conditioning or surge protection, branch off an existing outlet and buy a run of the mill wall box with outlet.

If you do want power conditioning and/or surge protection (i.e. the smarter move unless you have plenty of disposable cash for use in replacing an expensive panel), check out the powerbridge, or possibly save some money sourcing the same components from an electrical supply house.

Either way you'll be running romex through the wall. Much is being made about hiring an electrician to be code compliant. If you've ever changed a wall outlet such as a GFCI type in a bathroom or kitchen, you can wire a new outlet for your panel. An electrician isn't going to perform any magic. It's 3 wires (hot, neutral, ground) and the chances are good that the existing outlet has a second set of screws to make branching very easy. Even if there aren't, that's what wire nuts are for. Search the net and you'll find plenty of DIY sites with the info on how to do it (step by step pics included). As far as safety goes, if you're incapable of determining which breaker on the main panel in your house kills power to the outlet in question....hire an electrician.

The bigger question (and it exists even if you use a powerbridge) is how much current you'll draw. You may find that once everything is plugged in and running, that you trip the breaker that feeds power to the outlet(s). That's probably not gonna happen though. I run my plasma, directv receiver, stereo, ups and a/v line conditioner all through the same circuit and have never tripped the feeder breaker.

The bigger question (and it exists even if you use a powerbridge) is how much current you'll draw. You may find that once everything is plugged in and running, that you trip the breaker that feeds power to the outlet(s). That's probably not gonna happen though. I run my plasma, directv receiver, stereo, ups and a/v line conditioner all through the same circuit and have never tripped the feeder breaker.
This is an important issue. When you do run the romex make sure you get the proper gauge to match the rest of the run to the breaker. Typically it is 14AWG for 15-amp circuits. But if you have a 20-amp circuit you must use 12AWG or risk overheating the cable.

No kidding...

If you don't want any sort of power conditioning or surge protection, branch off an existing outlet and buy a run of the mill wall box with outlet.

If you do want power conditioning and/or surge protection (i.e. the smarter move unless you have plenty of disposable cash for use in replacing an expensive panel), check out the powerbridge, or possibly save some money sourcing the same components from an electrical supply house.

Either way you'll be running romex through the wall. Much is being made about hiring an electrician to be code compliant. If you've ever changed a wall outlet such as a GFCI type in a bathroom or kitchen, you can wire a new outlet for your panel. An electrician isn't going to perform any magic. It's 3 wires (hot, neutral, ground) and the chances are good that the existing outlet has a second set of screws to make branching very easy. Even if there aren't, that's what wire nuts are for. Search the net and you'll find plenty of DIY sites with the info on how to do it (step by step pics included). As far as safety goes, if you're incapable of determining which breaker on the main panel in your house kills power to the outlet in question....hire an electrician.

The bigger question (and it exists even if you use a powerbridge) is how much current you'll draw. You may find that once everything is plugged in and running, that you trip the breaker that feeds power to the outlet(s). That's probably not gonna happen though. I run my plasma, directv receiver, stereo, ups and a/v line conditioner all through the same circuit and have never tripped the feeder breaker.


Man the electrocution stuff was killing me, sounded like a government job.

Thank you for doing all my typing. You said what I wanted to say. I have a Pure AV (the $500.00 model) surge protector down with my AV equipment. Mount a box high and low with romex between. Receptacle and cover above and male and cover below. Make a pigtail, one end male plug to the surge protector and one end female plug to male wall plate. On my protector it shows the amp draw to be under 5 amps. Thats with 58"panny, receiver and cable box.

This is an important issue. When you do run the romex make sure you get the proper gauge to match the rest of the run to the breaker. Typically it is 14AWG for 15-amp circuits. But if you have a 20-amp circuit you must use 12AWG or risk overheating the cable.

Undersized cable makes a good fuse.

[QUOTE=JCNPLUMBING]Man the electrocution stuff was killing me, sounded like a government job.

Thank you for doing all my typing. You said what I wanted to say. I have a Pure AV (the $500.00 model) surge protector down with my AV equipment. Mount a box high and low with romex between. Receptacle and cover above and male and cover below. Make a pigtail, one end male plug to the surge protector and one end female plug to male wall plate. QUOTE]

Hello JCNPLUMBING

I have to stand on a soap-box for a minute...sorry but it's really sad you make a comment in regard to being electrocuted so lightly... It happens allot,,, 6 years ago I was an EMT, and can't tell you how often we were on calls that involved people, little and big, grabbing a cord, or trying to hook up an outlet, mostly people doing dumb stuff, or making a "short cut" with electrical cord, outlet, you name it. People DO GET HURT messing with electricity...

There is a reason there is the NEC and FIRE CODE regulations and the UL...

You may know how to do all this yourself first hand, but kits like the Powerbridge are great for DYI's because it solves all the hassles of trying to locate and properly know how to put all the parts together.

If you know where anyone can buy this male wall inlet "male and cover" you install below, as you described,,, please let us all know where to buy it and could you post a picture of what you have installed?
Funny, I recall you posting on another thread last week that you suggested making a 2 ended MALE-to-MALE plug cord, one end plugged into the surge protector and the other plugged to a regular outlet used as an "inlet"... That would be a VERY dangerous thing to have and do... I would think anyone reading this would agree...

I did look and there is no such "all ready made wall plate with an inlet" from leviton or anyone else that has what you simply describe. You can buy the parts separately if you have the time to go looking for all of them and the right tools to make one, but after I added up the parts for everything, I came up with about $40.00... So, is the Powerbridge such a bad deal for $50?

Again, the reason I created the thread in the first place was to alert people who don't know better, that short cuts like running the TV power cord in the wall is a bad idea,,, even you agree you should run ROMEX at least, but why suggest making something from a bunch of parts that some are not so easy to get and some are not all together designed to be put together without UL approval, and some past suggestion that wasn't even to code or close to safe.

The reason again for the post that some of you seem to be picking apart, was to tell people of safe code compliant ready to or have installed specialized power solutions for their wall mounted TV's and for people to think about safety, because the stores that sell them the TV's sure aren't telling them.

Sorry I had to get on the soap-box, but it really makes me upset when someone like you makes light of people getting hurt, or could be hurt.

[QUOTE=JCNPLUMBING]Man the electrocution stuff was killing me, sounded like a government job.

Thank you for doing all my typing. You said what I wanted to say. I have a Pure AV (the $500.00 model) surge protector down with my AV equipment. Mount a box high and low with romex between. Receptacle and cover above and male and cover below. Make a pigtail, one end male plug to the surge protector and one end female plug to male wall plate. QUOTE]

Hello JCNPLUMBING

I have to stand on a soap-box for a minute...sorry but it's really sad you make a comment in regard to being electrocuted so lightly... It happens allot,,, 6 years ago I was an EMT, and can't tell you how often we were on calls that involved people, little and big, grabbing a cord, or trying to hook up an outlet, mostly people doing dumb stuff, or making a "short cut" with electrical cord, outlet, you name it. People DO GET HURT messing with electricity...



There is a reason there is the NEC and FIRE CODE regulations and the UL...

You may know how to do all this yourself first hand, but kits like the Powerbridge are great for DYI's because it solves all the hassles of trying to locate and properly know how to put all the parts together.

If you know where anyone can buy this male wall inlet "male and cover" you install below, as you described,,, please let us all know where to buy it and could you post a picture of what you have installed?
Funny, I recall you posting on another thread last week that you suggested making a 2 ended MALE-to-MALE plug cord, one end plugged into the surge protector and the other plugged to a regular outlet used as an "inlet"... That would be a VERY dangerous thing to have and do... I would think anyone reading this would agree...

I did look and there is no such "all ready made wall plate with an inlet" from leviton or anyone else that has what you simply describe. You can buy the parts separately if you have the time to go looking for all of them and the right tools to make one, but after I added up the parts for everything, I came up with about $40.00... So, is the Powerbridge such a bad deal for $50?

Again, the reason I created the thread in the first place was to alert people who don't know better, that short cuts like running the TV power cord in the wall is a bad idea,,, even you agree you should run ROMEX at least, but why suggest making something from a bunch of parts that some are not so easy to get and some are not all together designed to be put together without UL approval, and some past suggestion that wasn't even to code or close to safe.

The reason again for the post that some of you seem to be picking apart, was to tell people of safe code compliant ready to or have installed specialized power solutions for their wall mounted TV's and for people to think about safety, because the stores that sell them the TV's sure aren't telling them.

Sorry I had to get on the soap-box, but it really makes me upset when someone like you makes light of people getting hurt, or could be hurt.

Sorry I didn't read your whole thread but you said that what I was talking about was not available. You are wrong. I purchased one from my electric supply house last week. It is a Leviton "4937 with cover". Its grey and used for exterior application (it's made for weather tight application). It's the same size as any wall plate but has a hinge cover. Your a little over the top, and your suggestions are over kill with unneeded expense. Scroll down the page and you will see it. This is the first sight that came up when I googled it. When I was a kid and we heard a train coming, we would get off the track. Today if someone gets hit by the train they have to put fences around the tracks. Common sense goes a long way. Life does have risks.

As I'm reaching up to grab your hand when you get off your soapbox, I will accept your apology.


http://www.bestbuyelectric.com/acatalog/4560.html.

This is an important issue. When you do run the romex make sure you get the proper gauge to match the rest of the run to the breaker. Typically it is 14AWG for 15-amp circuits. But if you have a 20-amp circuit you must use 12AWG or risk overheating the cable.
Absolutely. If the DIYer isn't sure, go with the #12. It's not going to hurt anything to use wire one size heavier if it's a 15A circuit.

I have to stand on a soap-box for a minute...sorry but it's really sad you make a comment in regard to being electrocuted so lightly... It happens allot,,, 6 years ago I was an EMT, and can't tell you how often we were on calls that involved people, little and big, grabbing a cord, or trying to hook up an outlet, mostly people doing dumb stuff, or making a "short cut" with electrical cord, outlet, you name it. People DO GET HURT messing with electricity...
No offense, but some of the time your replies come off sounding like "throwing the baby out with the bath water". People get electrocuted because they don't work safe....BUT there's absolutely nothing difficult about working safe. It doesn't take a genius to determine when an outlet has power, just a voltmeter and a pair of eyes. If you're not the type to work slowly and ensure you have a safe situation before touching wiring, then by all means, hire an electrician...but, by following a couple basic safety rules there's no reason why practically anyone can't do this job themselves.

BTW, "making a short cut with electrical cord" can apply to the powerbridge as well when running the romex. Sure, you won't get a shock when you hook up the wire, but you sure as hell might get a rude surprise when you connect your components. What I'm trying to say is, the knowledge you need to hook up the powerbridge system is absolutely no different than what you need to branch off an existing outlet (or cobble together your own "powerbridge" system from supply house parts). The only difference in the two is making sure you have killed the power to the outlet you're branching from. And as I said before, if you don't have that simple ability, call an electrician.

You may know how to do all this yourself first hand, but kits like the Powerbridge are great for DYI's because it solves all the hassles of trying to locate and properly know how to put all the parts together.
No argument with that...there's nothing wrong with the powerbridge and $50 isn't a ton of money, but I bet they can be had for much less. Whether someone wants to hunt those parts down or just spend the money on the powerbridge is up to them.

Apparently, I've somehow upset a few of you with my comments that SAFETY should be considered when dealing with electricty.

My apologies... The entire purpose of this thread was to alert people to think about safety and NOT TO RUN THE TV POWER CORD IN THE WALL, because it sure appears many have and didn't know the risks..

JCNPLUMBING, thank you for finding and posting a part that I couldn't find and for about $23.00 w/shipping is half of the solution of the Powerbridge, almost,,, Great find! I'm sure some with time and know-how will buy that and buy the other parts needed and save a few bucks!

Shinner, thanks for your input as well and the great thing about this forum is everyone has ideas and input that help others.

Apparently, I've somehow upset a few of you with my comments that SAFETY should be considered when dealing with electricty.

My apologies... The entire purpose of this thread was to alert people to think about safety and NOT TO RUN THE TV POWER CORD IN THE WALL, because it sure appears many have and didn't know the risks..

JCNPLUMBING, thank you for finding and posting a part that I couldn't find and for about $23.00 w/shipping is half of the solution of the Powerbridge, almost,,, Great find! I'm sure some with time and know-how will buy that and buy the other parts needed and save a few bucks!

Shinner, thanks for your input as well and the great thing about this forum is everyone has ideas and input that help others.

I understand, you were trying to help people.

I understand, you were trying to help people.

Thank you JCNPLUMBING, I am only trying to help, and again if I came off on you too hard, I apologize. I get passionate, sometimes too much, about things and I just was trying to apply my opinion on an issue that I've seen first hand regarding the dangers of electricity and how some don't use common sense.


I've received numerous private messages thanking me and some asking more of my opinions regarding the TV cord in the wall. Thanks to you all for your comments. Some have asked me for the website for powerbridge, so I'll make it easier then me having to reply to each. www.powerbridgesolution.com

good luck and be safe!

Shinner, thanks for your input as well and the great thing about this forum is everyone has ideas and input that help others.
No sweat man....the powerbridge is a good product and your post should help total novices when it comes to dealing with electricity.

I've received numerous private messages thanking me and some asking more of my opinions regarding the TV cord in the wall.
I can't believe people really consider this....talk about stupid. If you're gonna go in the wall, at least do it right. It's an easy job if you just take the precautions of working safely (but I've said enough about that!)

Hi Shinner

>I can't believe people really consider this....talk about stupid.<

I am interested in why this immediately jumps out at you as being extremely dangerous. Don't get me wrong, I am all for correct installation and following NEC which I will do with my own installation but this did not jump out at me as being too absurd. We run power cords all day across our carpet, behind the couch, through magazines.... (I believe this is one of the reasons why NEC now requires Arc Fault breakers for bedrooms since power cords can be damaged so easily.) It would seem to me the environment inside a wall would actually be safer than across the floor. Granted a power cord is not rated for in wall so is should not be used but I bet it would take years for Power Cord to rot away inside a wall. I do see a concern with having a live cord protruding from the wall which could be yanked and damaged without notice inside the wall cavity.

Thanks

Bob

Steve, that's only one side of the system, that's only an expensive recessed outlet, that's not the complete solution that has the more expensive inlet part, that panamax is charging an extra $249.00 for. That part in your link is just an outlet with a slot to add a cable module and can only be used if you "branch" it from another existing outlet. Read the specs, it's nothing as it by itself, other than an expensive electrical outlet to plug your TV into.

The problem I found was the other hard to find end, the inlet, can't find them at the hardware stores, or even very easy on-line by itself.
The Powerbridge is still a better deal as far as I'm concerned, you get the whole kit system, the inlet and the outlet and a connecting power cord with instructions for $49.00... ?? so why is the panamax a better deal? Yeah it says it has surge protection built-in but look at the specs, not much more than a cheap surge strip I use on my kids TV.

The panamax kit is UL certified as a KIT, it's the only one I know of with a complete certification (not just certified components).

It also maintains the correct division of low voltage wiring in a dual gang box so you pass inspection if you want a single box for AC and LV wiring.

And the wall outlet uses a locking fitting so it works well with articulating mounted displays. You never have to worry about the cord being pulled loose because the screen is being moved.

So, yes it's pricey but it meets several important criteria depending on the installation. Is it worth another $250? depends on the installation.

HDLover45 I'm curious as to your affiliation with powerbridge. Not knocking on you or the product, but you would appear to be more than just an casual user of the product.

It would seem to me the environment inside a wall would actually be safer than across the floor.
That may be...I don't know the reason for the code (maybe access to the cable for easy inspection or in case of fire?)

Granted a power cord is not rated for in wall so is should not be used but I bet it would take years for Power Cord to rot away inside a wall.
That's my concern...the rating of the cable has as much to do with construction and insulating material as it does with size and composition of the wire itself. I haven't run any romex lately but unless my memory is going, the insulation was much heavier than that of the run of the mill power cord. That said, I've never cut open a power cord for a plasma...they may be heavier than say a DVD player or sat/cable box.

HDLover45 I'm curious as to your affiliation with powerbridge. Not knocking on you or the product, but you would appear to be more than just an casual user of the product.

This is exactly what I was thinking. Could this be a possible case of product shilling?:)

I would also surmise that the romex is much more armored than your typical power cord, and less likely to be abraded fishing it through the wall, as well as a bit more impervious to, say, someone hanging a picture (or mounting a center channel speaker) through the same wall and piercing the cable.

And, of course, a fire inside a wall is likely to be much more destructive than the fire behind the couch, especially since if you're lucky and it happens when you are home, you can at least put out the fire behind the couch.

Pardon me, I need a couple posts in order to post a link.

1 more

I just skimmed through a lot of this, so if this has already been posted I apologize. This looks similar to the power bridge design, I'm not sure of a cost comparison.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=10902307&&#post10902307


Basically, it uses a male outlet which you then plug a short cord into and the other end into the surge protector of your choice.

Let's try and be safe out there people.

Looks like others have found some of the parts needed to make their own version of the panamax and powerbridge systems. One could shop around and put together a electrical outlet system to meet code. ----- As long as you don't put the TV power cord in the wall, is the main reason for this thread, to alert people not to do it. What ever all the suggestions are, be safe doing it.

I still would rather have a complete ready to install kit like the Powerbridge and spend the extra $10-$20 bucks than have to find and order and make my own.

Did a lot of searching.. ran across the Powerbridge option and then noticed they raised their price from $50 up to $70.. (as of 12/20/07)... I tried calling them, figuring if I got them on the phone they'd sell for $50 anyway, but nobody answered....

Not being in a rush, I did a little poking around and came up with something very close to what they sell for REALLY cheap...

kscdirect (dot) com

LEV 4937
W P PLT W/PLUG $9.24 / EA 9.24
LEV 688-W
688-W CLOCK RECEPT $5.62 / EA 5.62

Total is $14.86 + a little over $8 for UPS ground.. .that's under $24 for something really close to the Powerbridge solution... about 1/3 the price... If they'd still had the $50 price, I would have sprung the extra bucks for the all in one solution, but @ $70 (avs forum price) for a couple fancy electrical receptacles... give me a break...

Anyway... just thought I share the prices with you... I'd seen the 4937 somewhere here on a forum link for $23... @ $9.24 kscdirect is much cheaper.

JB

Did a lot of searching.. ran across the Powerbridge option and then noticed they raised their price from $50 up to $70.. (as of 12/20/07)... I tried calling them, figuring if I got them on the phone they'd sell for $50 anyway, but nobody answered....

Not being in a rush, I did a little poking around and came up with something very close to what they sell for REALLY cheap...

kscdirect (dot) com

LEV 4937
W P PLT W/PLUG $9.24 / EA 9.24
LEV 688-W
688-W CLOCK RECEPT $5.62 / EA 5.62

Total is $14.86 + a little over $8 for UPS ground.. .that's under $24 for something really close to the Powerbridge solution... about 1/3 the price... If they'd still had the $50 price, I would have sprung the extra bucks for the all in one solution, but @ $70 (avs forum price) for a couple fancy electrical receptacles... give me a break...

Anyway... just thought I share the prices with you... I'd seen the 4937 somewhere here on a forum link for $23... @ $9.24 kscdirect is much cheaper.

JB

I don't think you even need a 4937. A standard 15A receptacle would do the trick. See leviton part number 16251-W...less than $5.

huh?

the 688-w serves the purpose on the female side that the 16251 would serve... the 4937 is a recessed male receptacle.. it is the only one of it's kind I could find... the combination of the 688-w & the 4937 provide just about the same configuration the Powerbridge solution provides...

the idea here was to replicate a Powerbridge like solution that would allow the usage of a surger suppressor between a standard 120v outlet and the Powerbridge like configuration previously described.

no offense, but I don't think we're on the same page..

jb

huh?

the 688-w serves the purpose on the female side that the 16251 would serve... the 4937 is a recessed male receptacle.. it is the only one of it's kind I could find... the combination of the 688-w & the 4937 provide just about the same configuration the Powerbridge solution provides...

the idea here was to replicate a Powerbridge like solution that would allow the usage of a surger suppressor between a standard 120v outlet and the Powerbridge like configuration previously described.

no offense, but I don't think we're on the same page..

jb

None taken. I understood what you were suggesting. However, Leviton only makes the 4937 in Brown, which would be a problem for me, at least it would be after the wife saw it.

When I made my suggestion I was under the impression you could buy a male to male power cord but I'm having trouble finding one or an adapter. :confused:

yep.. you could also do that as well... be careful though... it would be against the code, fairly dangerous if someone accidentally unplugged one side of it, and of course you'd also have the electrical code police breathing down your neck here on the forum...

btw, you are correct, the 4937 only comes in brown.. in my case it will be behind an a/v cabinet.. so no one will ever see it anyway...

either way, good luck to you..

jb

None taken. I understood what you were suggesting. However, Leviton only makes the 4937 in Brown, which would be a problem for me, at least it would be after the wife saw it.

When I made my suggestion I was under the impression you could buy a male to male power cord but I'm having trouble finding one or an adapter. :confused:

That's a really bad idea. Very unsafe.

I know it will vary by city/state but in general.

I've looked through the Minnesota code and it appears that running a powerbridge (or equivalent) does not require an electrical inspection.

My city electrical code basically says, go ask the state.

Anyone know anything different or hear that an inspection for this is needed?

(It is going in a finished wall, run of about 6 ft.)

Good find Johnrbek! I noticed that the price for the power bridge went up as well and is a little to pricey for what you get.

Yes, I'm somewhat wondering if the recent price increase has something to do with this thread and the increased traffic to the site. At the earlier price I may have considered it, but heck, for $20 more for the exact same parts puzzles me....

That new price is kind of obnoxious. I'm heading to Lowe's and then the website that johnbrek mentioned if I'm still missing parts.

That new price is kind of obnoxious. I'm heading to Lowe's and then the website that johnbrek mentioned if I'm still missing parts.

Hopefully you have better luck then me. My Lowes does not carry the male clock mount outlet, I actually can not find any local store that does.

There are dozens of male "Twist Lock" panel mount or recessed "outlets" that you can purchase at most hardware stores. They tend to cost a little bit more than what a typical edison plug (standard US electrical plug) should cost, however still much cheaper than the previously mentioned solution, and will work just as well or better. You would then need a female twist lock of the same configuration, and you would replace the female edison on that extension cord with the female twist lock. This cord would provide power from your surge suppressor/ power source to the power inlet. You can use a simple $7.00 recessed clock outlet for your TV end power. In most cases, if you're using a tilt mount, you can even use a standard $0.50 outlet and install it above the TV mount. When the TV is tilted down, even slightly, this will allow more than enough clearance for the power cord. If you plan right, you can even still place this between the TV brackets, and hide the whole thing!


Also, a little late in the game for the guys that have already posted in April, but maybe this will be helpful for some other folks. Panamax (http://www.panamax.com/Products/Other/M2C.aspx#tab_spec) makes a unit that will go behind your TV if you already have the outlet installed. I recommend this unit over the Monster, because it has the plugs on the side of the unit instead of in the front of this unit. This is critical when you have limited space behind the TV. Also, this unit protects up to 1350 joules.

I just went to smarthome and bought a Leviton receptacle with surge suppresion built in. It wasnt a problem for me, but it is not recessed.

Mounted that sucker behind the plasma. Had some spare romex lying around to tie into the receptacle below. $50 and done.

Anyone know if the Leviton 5278-C and 688 somewhat fits together with some glue or tape? I don't really want the 4937 since it has that cover on it and it's not white.

Thanks.

Well, it might, but I would STRONGLY SUGGEST NOT DOING THAT!!! If you're going to "RIG IT" anyway (with glue or tape), then I would get the 4937 and pop off the cover, grind/file off the hing post(s) and then paint it white. That way you know that it's UL approved and isn't just stuck together with tape or glue.

I figure this would be a good time to bump this excellent thread up, since a lot of us are mounting the HDTV we got for christmas. Great info!

I'd also like to hear some suggestions on solutions for running low voltage wires. Thanks!

Would I be correct if I said that the Power Bridge kit is simple two Old Work boxes, two single recessed clock receptacles, and two face-plates, plus a 36" male-male extension cord? (Romex not included.)

Why buy the "kit" for $50?

That is pretty much all I see. It looks like you still need to provide a Surge protector, and Romex. I think with a few trips to the local hardware store you could get all the parts and the surge protector for about the same money. I really do like the idea of the clock plug.
Sunnyside Scott

I've been trying to put together a workable equivalent for the bridge too, not just for price, but also because I want to use industrial or hospital grade parts.

There are dozens of male "Twist Lock" panel mount or recessed "outlets" that you can purchase at most hardware stores.

Looked for these, but I haven't found any power inlets (locking or not) that aren't flanged or integrated into a 1-gang weather-proof cover. I'm looking at using the flanged 5-15P inlet (Leviton 5728-C), but don't see any products to mount it with. Looking at using a 2-gang stainless-steel wall plate (84008-40) and mounting the flanged inlet to the blank portion (drilling main and mounting screw holes, plus maybe 2 or 4 more mount screw holes for added strength). Then the other gang gets a hospital-grade receptacle, and a high/low-voltage divider in the box for added safety.

Any other knowledge/suggestions on mounting a flanged inlet?

I don't see an advantage to a locking inlet vs non-locking (5-15), especially using a right-angle cord socket (5269-CA). This way it's easier to yank the cord out of the wall in some sort of emergency.

Well... of course as soon as I made my post, I did another search through my local hardware stores, and yes, the male plugs of any type are impossible to find. I was for quite a while able to find the Male Twist lock receptacles. However, that is no longer the case here either. You are also right in that there is no benefit to the twist lock, except that at one point, they were easily accessible. I have found however, that KSC Direct (website) has these items available for a fraction of the cost. Yes, you have to put the system together yourself, but in my situation where I do many of these jobs per month, and need to cut my overhead where I can, it is no problem to order a few parts and get it done that way. The only drawback is that the male plug from KSC has a door or flap for weather proofing. This is easily removed. you can even grind off the small posts if you would like, and paint the thing any color. This sounds "rigged" to some people, however, if you knew some of the tricks used by your contractors put your house together, you would be quite pleased with this solution! Also, I assure you, it is not rigged. Simply modifying the cosmetics.
I like your idea of using the two pieces, the wall plate and flanged inlet. However, I think you might be even more satisfied with the weather proof version and just take off the door. let me know what you come up with. Thanks!

Yes, I'll post descriptions, part numbers, and pics, but don't hold your breath; I'm not gettin' there in anything resembling a hurry.

Got the idea today of using a nipper for a rough cut of the large wallplate hole. Was thinking that a hole saw might be a bit dangerous, even if the plate was screwed down to a piece of wood. Not sure about a hole punch; maybe it would bend/deform the plate.

all i did was put it on the wall with a mount, drilled a hole into the wall, poped the hdmi cable thru one hole, and put it on into the sat box from another hole, and just plugged it done. I doubt theres anything wrong with that

all i did was put it on the wall with a mount, drilled a hole into the wall, poped the hdmi cable thru one hole, and put it on into the sat box from another hole, and just plugged it done. I doubt theres anything wrong with that

And just how did you manage / run the power to the panel?

well my friends its still outside the wall lol.. it really doesnt bother me..but i was debating on if i should do the same thing, drill another hole, and pop it out on the outside and plug into my surge protector

Running power cord in wall ... bad idea! And totally against electrical codes in most (if not all) cities. If you decide to hide the power cord ... invest a few dollars and get the Powerbridge (do a search in this forum) as many others have suggested. Be SAFE ... not CHEAP!

Is it just me or does this look like two existing construction single gang boxes (cheap ones) two recessed wall-plate outlets (one male one female) and an extension cord?

I could pick all this up for $10 while at was at the local hardware store to get the required romex for the kit. :rolleyes:

>I could pick all this up for $10 while at was at the local hardware store to get the required romex for the kit. <
$10 would be hard to do. The tough one to find is the male outlet. I have been looking in Homedepot but they do not sell one. Here is one online for $20.

http://www.levitonproducts.com/catalog/model_4937.htm

I grabbed the Leviton 5278-C and the 688-W from KSC Direct as some have suggested (shipping was a bit much, but like many others I couldn't find it locally). Just today I had our tooling guy here at work mill out a hole in the center of a blank white wallplate and then he drilled and tapped the two holes for the flange to mount to. It doesn't look quite as nice as the Power Bridge setup, but it was a heck of a lot cheaper. I've actually considered making up a few kits and selling them for quite a bit cheaper than what's currently available. If you know someone with a mill, definitely see if they can mill out the holes...it'll most likely turn out much nicer than with a hole saw.

Is it just me or does this look like two existing construction single gang boxes (cheap ones) two recessed wall-plate outlets (one male one female) and an extension cord?

I could pick all this up for $10 while at was at the local hardware store to get the required romex for the kit. :rolleyes:


Already suggested, by me...you'd have to find a male to male power cord which is hard to come by. Someone else mentioned it would be unsafe.

Would I be correct if I said that the Power Bridge kit is simple two Old Work boxes, two single recessed clock receptacles, and two face-plates, plus a 36" male-male extension cord? (Romex not included.)

Why buy the "kit" for $50?


Already suggested, by me...you'd have to find a male to male power cord which is hard to come by. Someone else mentioned it would be unsafe.

DON'T DO THIS! At first sounds like a good idea, but what happens if you unplug the male end that feeds the wall and the cable is still powered?

Just go with the PowerBridge or with johnrbek's link http://kscdirect.com/item/LEV%2B4937/

which is a very good price for the flanged inlet some other sites have it for 2x more. LIKE HERE http://www.levitonproducts.com/catalog/model_4937.htm compare them its the same PLUG.

Wen i mounted my TV...Went to Home Depot bought some Romex,power outlet plate,3 junction boxes,and 2 wire plates.Supplies for outlet cost me like 30 bucks....Took me about 20 min to get everything set then about another 20 to get tv mounted and hooked up with cables hidden in wall....

http://www.hometech.com/power/receptacle.html

For those of you that are currently using the Powerbridge System, do the receptacles have to bolted to the studs in-wall or can they just be screwed directly into the sheetrock?

Not as elegant a solution as above, but I have an electrical outlet close by and bought a Belkin Surge Surpressor with a 10' cord and the Vantage Point WC60W Paintable Wire Cover System (available from Amazon.) I plugged the belkin into the outlet ran it along the wall and up to my wall mounted plasma where I attached it to the wall. Covered the power cord with the Wire Cover and painted to match my wall.

For those of you that are currently using the Powerbridge System, do the receptacles have to bolted to the studs in-wall or can they just be screwed directly into the sheetrock?The male and female receptacles have to be mounted in outlet boxes like the ones supplied with the PowerBridge kit. You can use a single-gang plastic or stell cut-in box that has "wings" that secures it to the wall, or you can rip the drywall away and screw a steel flat-bracket outlet box to the wall stud or a plastic nail-on outlet box to the wall stud, but the cut-in boxes are quicker and easier and are for use with Romex.

Here's a recent thread where i posted some information about the receptaces and plugs . . . .

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=978703&highlight=688

The male and female receptacles have to be mounted in outlet boxes like the ones supplied with the PowerBridge kit. You can use a single-gang plastic or stell cut-in box that has "wings" that secures it to the wall, or you can rip the drywall away and screw a steel flat-bracket outlet box to the wall stud or a plastic nail-on outlet box to the wall stud, but the cut-in boxes are quicker and easier and are for use with Romex.

Here's a recent thread where i posted some information about the receptaces and plugs . . . .

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=978703&highlight=688

So Randy, everything needed is included with the Powerbridge kit, correct?

DON'T DO THIS! At first sounds like a good idea, but what happens if you unplug the male end that feeds the wall and the cable is still powered?

OK, I am no electrician and I am sort of researching my "budget" wall mounting options, so this thread has held my interest for some time.

Not really understanding this stuff, why exactly is it so much more dangerous to have a male-to-male extension cord as opposed to a male-to-female?

Just to be clear (more for me than you!), this is what's happening, right?

1. Plasma plugs into recessed female "clock" outlet in wall behind mounted TV
2. Recessed outlet is connected via Romex in-wall to a hidden remote outlet somewhere discreet.
3. Hidden remote outlet is connected to surge protector of your choice with an extension/power cord to "power" the system.

My question is, why does step 3 become dangerous when the power cord is male-to-male (using a standard female outlet for the hidden outlet) vs. male-to-female (using the recessed male outlet that Powerbridge provides)?

Thanks so much, I'm trying to learn!

Sorry if this has addressed already but I had a new outlet created above my fireplace for my plasma. Besides the lack of surge protection, anything dangerous or incorrect about this setup?

OK, I am no electrician and I am sort of researching my "budget" wall mounting options, so this thread has held my interest for some time.

Not really understanding this stuff, why exactly is it so much more dangerous to have a male-to-male extension cord as opposed to a male-to-female?

Just to be clear (more for me than you!), this is what's happening, right?

1. Plasma plugs into recessed female "clock" outlet in wall behind mounted TV
2. Recessed outlet is connected via Romex in-wall to a hidden remote outlet somewhere discreet.
3. Hidden remote outlet is connected to surge protector of your choice with an extension/power cord to "power" the system.

My question is, why does step 3 become dangerous when the power cord is male-to-male (using a standard female outlet for the hidden outlet) vs. male-to-female (using the recessed male outlet that Powerbridge provides)?

Thanks so much, I'm trying to learn!

Because if you unplug the cord connected to the lower outlet, with the other end still plugged into your surge protector, you have a live exposed circuit. Not to mention I think it's near impossible to find a male to male power cord, unless you build one yourself. This wasn't clear to me at first either...now the potential danger is clear as day.

Sorry if this has addressed already but I had a new outlet created above my fireplace for my plasma. Besides the lack of surge protection, anything dangerous or incorrect about this setup?

You just might want to consider replacing it with a receptacle with built in surge protection.

Like this...
http://www.leviton.com/OA_HTML/ibeCCtpItmDspRte.jsp?sitex=10026:22372:US&item=134520

Nothing's about your setup is particularily dangerous to you but a surge could destroy your panel. For me it's more peace of mind.

I installed the Panamax MIW-POWER-PRO (http://www.panamax.com/Products/In-Wall/MIW-POWER-PRO.aspx)this weekend. A bit more expensive than the Leviton piece but I wanted the recessed outlet and still worth the peace of mind for sure.

You just might want to consider replacing it with a receptacle with built in surge protection.

Like this...
http://www.leviton.com/OA_HTML/ibeCCtpItmDspRte.jsp?sitex=10026:22372:US&item=134520

Nothing's about your setup is particularily dangerous to you but a surge could destroy your panel. For me it's more peace of mind.

You just might want to consider replacing it with a receptacle with built in surge protection.

Like this...
http://www.leviton.com/OA_HTML/ibeCCtpItmDspRte.jsp?sitex=10026:22372:US&item=134520

Nothing's about your setup is particularily dangerous to you but a surge could destroy your panel. For me it's more peace of mind.

Appreciate the advice. Would you happen to know if they have a recessed version? For that matter any other brand with surge protection?

Thanks.:)

Appreciate the advice. Would you happen to know if they have a recessed version? For that matter any other brand with surge protection?

Thanks.:)

No Problem. Panamax has one I think. But I bet it's pricey. Why not buy a Powerbridge?

- I'm not affiliated but do appreciate its desgin if you're looking for surge supression.

No Problem. Panamax has one I think. But I bet it's pricey. Why not buy a Powerbridge?

- I'm not affiliated but do appreciate its desgin if you're looking for surge supression.

I was looking @ that thread - re: Powerbridge - I am confused as to why the need to route the power cord into the wall? Is the surge suppression done somewhere else & not @ the receptacle?

Sorry a little off topic, I know.

I was looking @ that thread - re: Powerbridge - I am confused as to why the need to route the power cord into the wall? Is the surge suppression done somewhere else & not @ the receptacle?

Sorry a little off topic, I know.


Did you read the 1st post?

Did you read the 1st post?

I guess I mistook that picture on the first post & the 2 receptacles as routing the wire somewhere else.

I guess I mistook that picture on the first post & the 2 receptacles as routing the wire somewhere else.

My point was that your earlier post was very much on topic. With the powerbridge there is a single piece of romex between the upper and lower receptacles. The power cord from the lower receptacle can plug into a surge protector / line conditioner. Ideally you should plug the powerbridge into the same surge suppressor / line conditioner that your component stack is running off of.

Thanks the info in this thread is great!!!!:cool:
this was just what i needed (power bridge)
Now assuming the nec blablabla regulations differ from low voltage cabling (IE HDMI) is it necessary to get in wall hdmi cables for the hdmi jacks ?:rolleyes:

Thanks the info in this thread is great!!!!:cool:
this was just what i needed (power bridge)
Now assuming the nec blablabla regulations differ from low voltage cabling (IE HDMI) is it necessary to get in wall hdmi cables for the hdmi jacks ?:rolleyes:

TEchnically they should be CL3 rated. However, HDMI cables are low voltage. You'll have to check your local ordinance to be sure.

Now I'm sorry if this is somewhat off the subject matter but how do you guys run your cables up the wall ? is there any loss in signal with the hdmi/rgb jacks places like ram sell?

Now I'm sorry if this is somewhat off the subject matter but how do you guys run your cables up the wall ? is there any loss in signal with the hdmi/rgb jacks places like ram sell?

I prefer this route...
http://outlet.cableorganizer.com/NQP-VHT-8101.html?section=1&catname=%0AAudio+%2F+Video+%2F+Home+Theater+%5D+Home+Theater +Wall+Plates

No loss and very clean looking.

I installed the Panamax MIW-POWER-PRO (http://www.panamax.com/Products/In-Wall/MIW-POWER-PRO.aspx)this weekend. A bit more expensive than the Leviton piece but I wanted the recessed outlet and still worth the peace of mind for sure.

Here's another combo alternative that offers the surge protected outlet, as well as the wall recess. I combined the leviton surge outlet with this TV box. I will have my low voltage conduit tied in on the right side, finished off with a LV recessed wall plate.

Low Voltage Recessed Wall Plate:
http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=105&cp_id=10425&cs_id=1042505&p_id=4004&seq=1&format=2

Recessed TV Box:
http://www.hankselectric.net/detail.aspx?ID=1102

OK, I am no electrician and I am sort of researching my "budget" wall mounting options, so this thread has held my interest for some time.

Not really understanding this stuff, why exactly is it so much more dangerous to have a male-to-male extension cord as opposed to a male-to-female?

Just to be clear (more for me than you!), this is what's happening, right?

1. Plasma plugs into recessed female "clock" outlet in wall behind mounted TV
2. Recessed outlet is connected via Romex in-wall to a hidden remote outlet somewhere discreet.
3. Hidden remote outlet is connected to surge protector of your choice with an extension/power cord to "power" the system.

My question is, why does step 3 become dangerous when the power cord is male-to-male (using a standard female outlet for the hidden outlet) vs. male-to-female (using the recessed male outlet that Powerbridge provides)?

Thanks so much, I'm trying to learn!

Because you will have a "LIVE" wire EXPOSED. Besides not being up to code its also EXTREMELY Dangerous if you have kids and/or pets. The PowerBridge is a nicely put together, but u can do it also just follow this thread.
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=978306

Now I'm sorry if this is somewhat off the subject matter but how do you guys run your cables up the wall ? is there any loss in signal with the hdmi/rgb jacks places like ram sell?

I've used the "nose" looking wallplates as mentioned by some others and they worked well.

I've also used these:

http://www.mcminone.com/search.asp?keyword=wireport&btnSubmit.x=0&btnSubmit.y=0&btnSubmit=GO

They seem to work well, too. You can fit a few more wires through these than you can the "nose" wallplates, but some might not think they look as nice. You can finish it up with one of these though:

http://www.mcminone.com/search.asp?keyword=cable+sleeve&restrict=&M=MIDLITE+PRODUCTS&MODE=1

Another nice thing about these is that the bottom screw is easy to get to even if wires are ran through. With the nose style plates, if you have wires running through it, the bottom screw can be a bear to get to.

I'd been happy with either solution.

What about surge protection on the wall outlet? What are the best options for that?

What about surge protection on the wall outlet? What are the best options for that?

See post #101, or 14 posts up. :rolleyes:

I run my power cord from my wall mounted plasma through a hole in the wall behind the tv to a hole in the wall down by the floor where it comes out and plugs into a power strip with all my other devices behind the entertainment center.

There is nothing dangerous about this.

I can see concern for a extension cord or somthing along that line stapled along a stud in the wall as some sort of half-assed way to run power somewhere, but thats not the case with most of us.

Running a power cord 3-4ft behind sheet rock and back out is no more dangerous then running a cord on the outside of the wall.

I run the cord with the rest of the AV cords.

FUN FUN FUN.

I think most would agree that what you are doing isn't dangerous -- but it's certainly not up to code, which is I think the primary issue. Also, not as "clean" of an install as a recessed outlet behind the TV.

Thanks to those who explained above why having a male-to-male extension cord would be uber dangerous. I appreciate the warnings, I just didn't understand WHY it was dangerous as I'm an electricity noob...

I run my power cord from my wall mounted plasma through a hole in the wall behind the tv to a hole in the wall down by the floor where it comes out and plugs into a power strip with all my other devices behind the entertainment center.

There is nothing dangerous about this.
Maybe not, but it is a violation of code nevertheless.

See post #101, or 14 posts up. :rolleyes:

Darned it it was right there :D thanks sorry!

Anything special involved in installing the Panamax or is it like any other outlet?

I run my power cord from my wall mounted plasma through a hole in the wall behind the tv to a hole in the wall down by the floor where it comes out and plugs into a power strip with all my other devices behind the entertainment center.

There is nothing dangerous about this.

I can see concern for a extension cord or somthing along that line stapled along a stud in the wall as some sort of half-assed way to run power somewhere, but thats not the case with most of us.

Running a power cord 3-4ft behind sheet rock and back out is no more dangerous then running a cord on the outside of the wall.

I run the cord with the rest of the AV cords.

FUN FUN FUN.

The FUN FUN FUN would come from said power cord causing a fire and your insurance company not paying you a dime because its installation was not up to code. Obviously this is a worst case scenario but the $50 or so for the powerbidge is worth the peace of mind to me.

(Not to mention the fact that you should do your best to put as much distance as possible between your high voltage and low voltage wires.)

The FUN FUN FUN would come from said power cord causing a fire and your insurance company not paying you a dime because its installation was not up to code. Obviously this is a worst case scenario but the $50 or so for the powerbidge is worth the peace of mind to me.

(Not to mention the fact that you should do your best to put as much distance as possible between your high voltage and low voltage wires.)

I understand the concern. But the code is really a guideline to prevent homes and places of business from being electrical nightmares, cords running all over the place above drop ceilings, through walls, and in places where they can degrade and over time become a huge hazard. But in the case of a wire that is run 3ft behind a sheet rock wall, especially on an interior wall in my case, and is monitored often, is not dangerous.

If anyone is uncomfortable with running there power cord behind a few feet of sheet rock, thats fine, $50 is no big deal.

In this specific situation however, I feel the risk is low. As long as you plug that power cord into a breaker-protected socket that doesn't exceed a 15 amp capacity (standard household breaker rating), and you know where your wire is running, say between two wood studs straight down from your tv out the hole behind the entertainment center/table.

Now if your running your power cord horizontally across say metal studs, then your asking for trouble.


Also,

I see you mentioned having high voltage power cord running with the low voltage HDMI/componenet/audio cables. I know that it's been said that the high voltage cable can interfere with signal cables, but I just don't see it. I have never seen a power cable interfere with my picture quality through any source, component, hdmi, composit. Maybe RF? I am not sure but thats not an issue with my setup.

I dont recommend anyone run any cables that aren't up to code, I'm just saying I wont loose sleep over it.

I have big time interference using hdmi baluns and unshielded cat-5
cables running next to in-wall power wiring. Apparently shielded cat-5 would
not have an issue. It might also be for how long it runs next to the
wiring. I think the guys that wired mine used the holes in the studs
where power was run for the unshielded cat 5 at several locations.
Since my cat-5's were likely pressed against the power cord, it could
be a lot more severe than having other types of cords in general
proximity to power. If you flip the light switch, I lose the picture.

Datapro has panel-mount female/female HDMI cables so you can go the route of wallplate connections while reducing the number of them.

http://www.datapro.net/products/hdmi-dual-panel-mount-f-f-cable.html

Just picked up 4 of these and am going the hard way, making my own 4-port wall plate.

Just got linked to this thread after asking about the power bridge in another.

I have the option to mount a LG 42" over my fireplace. I am looking at these products:

http://www.firefold.com/Images/Products/TV-BOX.jpg

Recessed 'gang' box - http://www.firefold.com/Products/LCDPlasma-TV-Gang-Box__TV-BOX.aspx

http://www.firefold.com/Images/Products/POWER-BRIDGE-WHI.jpg

Power Bridge two port - http://www.firefold.com/Products/Dual-PowerBridge-In-Wall-Electrical-Power-Solution__POWER-BRIDGE2-WHI.aspx

Then I have two options:

A bulk plate:

http://www.firefold.com/images/products/WP-BULK-LG.jpg

Or a HDMI Wallplate:

http://www.firefold.com/images/products/HDMI-WP-D.jpg

Anything else I should be looking for or know before I buy this stuff? My husband will be doing the install . I just wanna get this right so we can have my TV up when the products arrive.

Just got linked to this thread after asking about the power bridge in another.

I have the option to mount a LG 42" over my fireplace. I am looking at these products:

http://www.firefold.com/Images/Products/TV-BOX.jpg

Recessed 'gang' box - http://www.firefold.com/Products/LCDPlasma-TV-Gang-Box__TV-BOX.aspx

http://www.firefold.com/Images/Products/POWER-BRIDGE-WHI.jpg

Power Bridge two port - http://www.firefold.com/Products/Dual-PowerBridge-In-Wall-Electrical-Power-Solution__POWER-BRIDGE2-WHI.aspx

Then I have two options:

A bulk plate:

http://www.firefold.com/images/products/WP-BULK-LG.jpg

Or a HDMI Wallplate:

http://www.firefold.com/images/products/HDMI-WP-D.jpg

Anything else I should be looking for or know before I buy this stuff? My husband will be doing the install . I just wanna get this right so we can have my TV up when the products arrive.

I'd go for the bulk plate for the HDMI. I thought I had read that there could be issues with adding two additional terminations in the path. Using that bulk plate, you can just route a long HDMI cord through and not have that additional impedence in the two connectors in the wall plate.

Also, here is a cheaper/smaller version of that recessed wall plate (from another thread) that I'm considering.

Recessed-Dual-Voltage-3-Gang-Old-Work-Plate (http://www.galesburgelectric.com/Carlon-SC300PRB-Recessed-Dual-Voltage-3-Gang-Old-Work-Plate-p-8606.html#Detailed_Image)

This might also eliminate your need for the two "power bridge" outlets saving a bit more cash.

I'd go for the bulk plate for the HDMI. I thought I had read that there could be issues with adding two additional terminations in the path. Using that bulk plate, you can just route a long HDMI cord through and not have that additional impedence in the two connectors in the wall plate.

Also, here is a cheaper/smaller version of that recessed wall plate (from another thread) that I'm considering.

Recessed-Dual-Voltage-3-Gang-Old-Work-Plate (http://www.galesburgelectric.com/Carlon-SC300PRB-Recessed-Dual-Voltage-3-Gang-Old-Work-Plate-p-8606.html#Detailed_Image)

This might also eliminate your need for the two "power bridge" outlets saving a bit more cash.

Nice. Cool to see some options out there. The first box was the first/only I'd see so far.

The powerbridge for me is to skip an electrication coming out - I believe in either box I'd have to have the same setup.

Personally I prefer a bulk cable plate in back of the TV, plug every imaginable cable you think you might use (except the power cable) and then use wall plates in the bottom of the setup where a "clean" look is more desirable. I also like the Monoprice bulk plate better MonoPrice Bulk cable Plate (http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=105&cp_id=10425&cs_id=1042505&p_id=4001&seq=1&format=1#largeimage) it, goes inward. And their HDMI wall plate is cheaper Dual HDMI Wall Plate (http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=104&cp_id=10425&cs_id=1042501&p_id=2813&seq=1&format=1#largeimage). Plus uisng the bulk plate and the PowerBridge gives you the option to keep your powercable and your A/V cables as far as possible instead of relying in an all in-one plate that won't accommodate your needs. I'll be moving soon and I want to post pictures of my "new" install.
Also why do you need the two port PowerBridge?
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=101243&stc=1&d=1202162413

what about in the attic? all this past posts applies to "not" running power cords through walls... but for a ceiling projector application (I have an OUTLET in the attic above the ceiling at the projector)... can you just stick the cord through the ceiling & plug into THAT outlet? If not, wtf did they put a receptacle in the attic??

Found the best price on that Leviton 4937 alternative to the Powerbridge..

http://kscdirect.com/item/LEV%2B4937/W_P_PLT_WPLUG

http://kscdirect.com/item/LEV%2B688-W/LEVITON%2BMFG%2BCOMPANY_688-W%2B%2B%2B%2B%2B%2B%2B%2B%2BCLOCK%2BRECEPT

This will run you about $30 - $35 for all the stuff you need.. $80.00 ($79.99) for the Powerbridge was way to much...

Nice. Cool to see some options out there. The first box was the first/only I'd see so far.

The powerbridge for me is to skip an electrication coming out - I believe in either box I'd have to have the same setup.

Lindz442 is a self promoter for FireFold.com. I can assure you that any posts HE has made with questions about firefold products are 100% an act.

He is a higher up in the company who has been banned from the likes of Slickdeals and FatWallet Forums.

Lindz442, also created the alias FruitStripez on SlickDeals, though I don't know if it is being used elsewhere yet.

If you see any suspicious activity from Lindz442 on this forum or other forums around the web, please report these instances to your moderators! Lindz442 is a troll who needs to learn his lesson that exploiting websites for free advertising is not right.

Seems like a lot of ports to open. 2x Bulk plates + 1 outlet + 1x inlet.

Aside from the big gang boxes, are there any options out there that has a bulk+inlet, bulk+outlet in one plate? I don't see why that isn't doable if the bulk opening is small enough. Or is it not done for signal interference concerns (it's digital, eh?)?

You can also just make your own inlet and use a regular clock outlet. I made a locking inlet using ML-2 with no special tools, color matched to the interior (all you really need is a hacksaw and a screwdriver).

Basically, you can use any color since those wall plates are standard. The only thing you have to order are the ML-2 connectors (let me know if you need some). This took all of about 15 minutes.

Here are some pics attached.

As for the inlet and outlet, I found some that only took 2 wall plates. I ended up just putting them on opposite sides of the wall
cavity to prevent interference. I used this (http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=105&cp_id=10425&cs_id=1042505&p_id=3996&seq=1&format=2) for the low voltage cabling and a low voltage wall flange (as opposed to box).

I have nothing to do with monoprice btw, that is just the product that I bought.

I think there is lots of unecessary paranoia floating around in this thread.

In my setup I have a Powerbridge running side by side (behind the wall) with a single unshielded HDMI cable connected to 2 HDMI wall plates (6 seperate connections between reciever and TV).

No noticable signal loss or interference.

There is no assurance that running power and signal side by side will or will not cause interference.

What is fact is that you reduce the coupling between conductors as their separation increases and as the angle between the conductors increases. (eg. when conductors cross at a right angle that is the least amount of coupling vs 45 or 30 degrees). As a result, it is just good practice because you reduce the chance of interference now and in the future.

I know, and understand, the science of electrical interference. It's just that I have never seen any evidence in home theater applications that good wiring practices produce better picture and sound than poor wiring setups.

If your buddy is going to put holes in the wall, why not just cut a hole for a box and mount it to a stud (connect the other end to an existing outlet)?

Heck, use a remodel box.

Has anyone tried one of these: http://www.amazon.com/Leviton-Series140-Enclosr-Protct-R27-47605-ACS/dp/B000KKLNV0

Combine it with: http://www.galesburgelectric.com/Carlon-SC300PRB-Recessed-Dual-Voltage-3-Gang-Old-Work-Plate-p-8606.html#Detailed_Image

And add two of these: http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=105&cp_id=10425&cs_id=1042505&p_id=4001&seq=1&format=1#largeimage

Wouldn't that make an ideal, if not really inexpensive, solution to mounting a flatcreen? The surge suppressor is hospital grade and protects up to 720 joules. This setup would be pefect I think.

Has anyone tried one of these: http://www.amazon.com/Leviton-Series140-Enclosr-Protct-R27-47605-ACS/dp/B000KKLNV0

Combine it with: http://www.galesburgelectric.com/Carlon-SC300PRB-Recessed-Dual-Voltage-3-Gang-Old-Work-Plate-p-8606.html#Detailed_Image

And add two of these: http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=105&cp_id=10425&cs_id=1042505&p_id=4001&seq=1&format=1#largeimage

Wouldn't that make an ideal, if not really inexpensive, solution to mounting a flatcreen? The surge suppressor is hospital grade and protects up to 720 joules. This setup would be pefect I think.

Leviton makes good stuff, but this is what I did... Bought one of these, same as yours, http://www.techtoolsupply.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=3859 and an outlet at Lowes.

Cut a hole in the wall directly behind where I mounted my LED/LCD. Ran romex down to an existing outlet and tied in there. It took a bit longer than I thought it would, as I was dealing with old construction where the builder used cross bracing between the studs. So I had to carve out a few extra holes in the sheetrock to run my romex. A few drywall clips, mud, tape, sanding and primer and she was ready to go. I think I had around $40 in the entire job with a new outlet, romex, the recessed plug and plate, mud, tape and drywall clips.

And she is up to code.

Mike

For those of you that are currently using the Powerbridge System, do the receptacles have to bolted to the studs in-wall or can they just be screwed directly into the sheetrock?

I've never done anything electrical but am mechanically inclined and insist on having the right tools. The receptacles have "wings" which will latch onto the backside of the sheetrock when tightened. I installed this system 2 weeks ago and hung up the 50" pioneer plasma Tues (6/2/09) love it! I was able to find the "slim line" system online for $65 and $8 s&h online...let me know how it works for you!
The instructions are very clear, but you'll have to buy 12/2 indoor romex cable as its not included. Together w/my wallmount ($30), the kit ($73) and 12/2 cable ($13) = $116 plus my labor. Looks like a professional did it! Some companies charge $300 plus materials or more! Well worth the effort, and I owe it all to the i/net.....I researched it very well. I've taken pics and will post them here when developed.

p.s. I too was going to run the power cord about 4' inside then out of the wall, but after much research decided to "do it right the 1st time" as my dad used to say. I'm not affiliated in any way with this product or the store but here is the way I went....http://sewelldirect.com/PowerBridge-Total-Solution.asp (also avail in black, almond and ivory)

Most homes here in FL are concrete block construction. 3/4" furring strip creates void between drywall and concrete block. Has anybody come across a solution that does not involve hammering out concrete? The powerbridge is great or the vanco, I would buy either one of them in a second. But the box is too deep. Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated thanks.

I know this isn't a sexy solution but how about building out the wall behind the plasma? Hang a wooden box deep enough to get an outlet into it and mount the Plasma to the box.