The "Official" Onkyo TX-SR705 Thread [Text View] - Page 13

cmf

10-28-07, 02:42 PM

I agree, the better TVs (couple grand) can do a better job than a $600 receiver in most cases, I think the upscaling is a useless feature for most, and I tried it for my Wii and it didn't look any different whether I sent my Sony A2000 SXRD the 480p vs the 720p through the secret menu. My TV made it 1080p either way and did just as good of a job as the scaler in the 705. This is probably why its still a secret menu. Only the 875/905 with Reon will really be worth it to use for scaling.

In a nutshell, here's what my personal experience (and time spent here) has taught me about PQ:

1) The original source material largely determines the best possible PQ you can get. With very few exceptions, GIGO (or, you can't make a silk purse from a sow's ear).

2) Upscalers don't follow the "you get what you pay for" rule. Instead, you generally end up paying a lot more than you might expect to get a noticeable improvement in PQ from a substandard source. The upscaler in your typical $99 DVD player doesn't do much that's helpful.

3) Even high-end TVs don't usually pack in really good upscaling componentry. For $4000, you will likely get a large LCD that doesn't upscale SD sources as well as a stand-alone component costing a quarter as much. My hunch is that they assume anyone concerned enough about PQ to fret over the quality of their $4000 TV will go ahead and spring for a separate VP.

So, in a nutshell, (a) for best PQ, start at your source, (b) don't "go cheap" if PQ really matters (e.g., relying on a 705 for upscaling is definitely "going cheap"), and (c) there's always something that can do a better job than your TV does.

Snowskip

10-28-07, 03:24 PM

scaling only occurs when input sources are converted to HDMI (eg component/svideo/composite in, to HDMI out). So in your case, HDMI in from the DVD player is passed through to HDMI out, without any scaling, so it can already do what you want

Ok, thank you for the info, I need to test that a little more ;)

RobertR1

10-28-07, 05:15 PM

The numbers are coming out that low because it's trying to set the channels to a specific level, such that 0 on the relative scale equals reference level (i.e. 105dB peak from each channel, 115dB peak from sub). The smaller the room (or closer the speakers), the lower those numbers will be. If you don't necessarily care that 0 equals reference level (or if you're using the absolute volume scale), you can bump the channel trims up to get them closer to 0. Given the extreme trim on your sub, you might dial the gain on the sub down a bit before rerunning Audyssey so that its level comes up on the 705 (especially if your sub has an auto-on feature, since that low a trim might prevent the subwoofer line out from maintaining a high enough level when in use to trigger the sub).

Here's one problem: If you're calibrating with the mic A) near the wall, since I'm assuming your bed is near the wall, and B) near the headboard, you're making it difficult for Audyssey to do its thing. Make sure that the mic is AT LEAST a foot or so from the wall/headboard, and if possible put the mic slightly above the headboard on a tripod to prevent reflections from affecting the reading (especially if it is a wooden headboard).

The 705 does have an issue with detecting the true capability of speakers, so after re-running Audyssey (and I strongly recommend you do at least 6 positions with the mic, with the last three about a foot closer toward the front speakers), set the crossover for each about 20Hz above their lowest extension. In the case of your speakers, I'd use 70 for the Monitor 7s, 70 for the CC370, and 80 for the surrounds. Set LFE crossover to 120 so you aren't unnecessarily removing audio in the LFE channel; this crossover does not affect redirected bass from the other channels.

You'll want to run Audyssey with the mic a bit further into the room than where you listening position might be so that you give the EQ'ing a chance, but then you can readjust to physical distance from your main listening position afterwards. In fact, if you're really super anal, I recommend using Digital Video Essentials to tweak, which has a series of 6.1 tones placed in between each channel... which lets you tweak distance settings up and down until you hear the tone appear to emanate solidly from the space in between the speakers. This will give you more solid cross-channel imaging than physical distance often does.

As far as subwoofer distance goes, Audyssey makes this adjustment based on more than just a simple pinging of the speaker. Things such as crossover circuitry on the subwoofer amp itself, phase issues, etc. can make the optimal distance setting vastly different from its physical distance. Before running Audyssey, disable any crossover on the subwoofer or turn it to its maximum setting to reduce the possibility of delay. Also, if you're consistently getting that low a distance from Audyssey, try reversing the phase switch on your sub and re-running it. Subwoofer distance controls effectively act like a variable phase control, meaning Audyssey may use the lowered distance to ensure that the sound from the sub is arriving at the listening position at the same time as sound from your other speakers. Also, putting the mic too close to the wall on the initial reading can throw off the distance setting, since you're essentially putting the mic in a position prone to reflection (so it can't differentiate the first impulse from the reflections).

Now, even after all of this, you may still not like the effect that Audyssey EQ'ing has... but at least you're giving it a chance. And even if you turn it off, you should get a better overall sound.

Did I cover everything? :D

Jeremy, thanks a TON! I reran the setup, still didn't sounds right so I used the speaker setting you suggested along with Audessy EQ turned on. Oh man, that sounds clean. I still have to raise the volume above -10 for good loudness but thankfully the harshness seems to have gotten a lot better. Watched Reign of Fire on BR which is pretty action packed and things were good. I plan to watch We Were Soilders on HD DVD tonight as that'll be a good test for the soundstage.

I still had to bring the center up a big. Dialouge was getting a bit lost in action scenes. From what I've read in the past, the CC370 is a bit weaker than the rest of my setup so it needs a little help. Going from -9 to -6 in the level settings solved that.

Now I have to convince myself this is good enough and that the 805 will yield diminishing returns with my setup. :)

One last question, I'm a noob when it comes to understand LFE crossover setting. Why did you recommend 120 over 80, which seems to be norm? My sub is an auto on and it has phase settings. Right now Phase is set to 0 which is recommended in the manual when placing the sub in line with the front speakers. It's between the FL and Center. The sub power is cranked to max and crossover on the sub to 150 so that it stays out of the way. On the receiver, turning my cross over to 120 but having my FR,C,FL set to 70 and surrounds to 80, what is it actually doing? I know you touched on it above to it was a bit too technical for me at this point.

Again, thanks a ton for all your help and if you're ever in the Easy Bay, CA, beers on me :)

RobertR1

10-28-07, 05:21 PM

Warning on the component to HDMI scaler:

Avoid the scaler on this if you have a 1336x768 set. The double scaling leads to massive shimmering if the source is set to 1080i on component. You'll literally get signs of motion sickness after a while. At 720p, the shimmering seems to receed but the now you get a ton of edge enhancement and banding. The EE and banding is also present on 1080i but the shimmering is so bad that the rest of the flaws take a large step back. Playing Forza2 on the 360, the sky on the N-Ring is a great test. The amount of banding the scaler produces is unacceptable. For HD channels, via Comcast DVR, the EE plagues the output and the SD is pure ****. This is on a Pioneer 5070. I had to hookup component out for a return to normalcy. Ofcourse you lose the OSD for setup when using component. Joy :)

Doubling the price to a 875 is the nearest fix, short of running HDMI all around, which is hard when then 705 (and 805) have 3 inputs and you have 4 sources.

MegaHurtz83

10-28-07, 05:46 PM

Quick question: How can I verify that TrueHD is working? I have it enabled on my HD-A2, but I am not sure how to verify it on the receiver.

RobertR1

10-28-07, 05:48 PM

Quick question: How can I verify that TrueHD is working? I have it enabled on my HD-A2, but I am not sure how to verify it on the receiver.

The receiver should set itself to "pure audio." Make sure you're outputting PCM from the HD-A2. You can't pass TruHD as bitstream to the receiver. It needs to be decoded internally at the player level and then passed down to the receiver as PCM.

willy91342

10-28-07, 06:06 PM

domingos1965

10-28-07, 06:14 PM

MegaHurtz83

10-28-07, 06:15 PM

Thanks... my DVD player was set to Bitstream. I still am not getting TrueHD to the receiver though, is there anything else I have to set?

woots

10-28-07, 06:26 PM

I'm looking to purchase a HDMI reciever while i'm waiting on the Sherwood recievers to hit the Market.. Here is my question (if someone can help me out) I have a rxv2700 which is a hdmi 3 in 1 out 1.2a yamaha reciever. I have handshake issues with both my toshiba hddvd and ps3 and my cable box.. I bought my yammy about 6 months ago and now upset with it..

does the 705 have any handshake issues? I have also been reading about a popping sound.. is this still happening?

I'm just very frustrated right now. You guys probably know how that feels !!

I get zero handshake issues with this receiver. Popping happened alot for newer users cause they left their listening modes to defualt settings so every time they changed channel the audio was switch back and forth and giving a pop... once u tell the receiver what listening mode to stay at you rarely hear pops. Only time I hear pops anymore is when I start up a blu ray movie in the ps3.. sometimes i will here 1-3 pops in a row as it starts up at the very beginning... The 805 camp have claimed since theirs gets so overheated they get continuous pop at times.. Out 705 camp doesn't get as hot as theirs does so I have never experienced that.

woots

10-28-07, 06:28 PM

Thanks... my DVD player was set to Bitstream. I still am not getting TrueHD to the receiver though, is there anything else I have to set?

If you have a standard definition DVD player.. stick with bistream.. its best setting for you.

However if you have a PS3 set to PCM and your ps3 decodes true hd and sends it to the receiver (ps3 wont output raw bistream undecoded HD formats ever.. not that kinda player)... which means it wont say True HD on the receiver.. decoding is being done INSIDE the PS3)

If you have one of the newer breed HD DVD or newer samsung stand alone blu ray player.. set it to bistream.. and DTS HD MA and True HD will be sent undecoded to your receiver and let yoru receiver do the work decoding it. So if you own one of those players.. you WILL see True HD or... DTS HD MA on the front of your receiver.

RobertR1

10-28-07, 06:30 PM

Thanks... my DVD player was set to Bitstream. I still am not getting TrueHD to the receiver though, is there anything else I have to set?

The receiver won't show TruHD because it doesn't know. If the player could send TruHD to the receiver via Bitstream (it can't) then you'd see TruHD being displayed on the receiver. Right now, set the audio in the movie options menu to TruHD, let the player decode it and send it you the receiver via PCM.

woots

10-28-07, 06:33 PM

I've seen the quote and I sure hope its coming, its my only real wish for the PS3. I would be overjoyed with truehd and dtshd-ma bitstreaming but just decoding like TrueHD is now would make me a very happy camper. I'm sure you've seen my post about the 9132 chipset, and I still haven't had anyone reply with any more info proving the 9132 doesn't support bitstreaming (because of hardware), so I don't know if Sony will ever give us bitstreaming but I do believe, just as you do, that decoding for HD-MA will come soon!! I can't friggen wait!!:eek::D

Dont count on the 9132 doing that. When they implemented bistream.. it would have come along in the package deal with that and it didnt. I even bought a hdmi 1.3a cable just to make sure I wasnt missing anything. I dont mind ps3 decoding those formats internally and I will welcome dts hd ma when it comes.

I am biding my time until the holy grail that is the samsung 5000 dual format stand alone player comes out... then ps3 can be properly put to rest (as a game machine and as a blu ray player.. prolly next time i will use it after that will be for metal gear solid 4 and the next final fantasy and thats it.. ill stick to 360 for the rest)

woots

10-28-07, 06:48 PM

I guess you are putting the fan on top of the receiver. I am thinking of putting one more of this fan on the plasma tv. so question, can i hook it up on the wall behind the plasmatv , does this fan have any hole for it to be supported by a push pin to the wall, or since i am trying to put the fan vertically/parallel to the TV, i may have to "tie" the fan to the back of the tv, on the top, where there is some opening on the tv for the air to come out.
Any ideas?? Right now i have 2 small fans behind the plasma, supported by push pins, but these fans make some sound, and they were only 5-6 dollars from target. Hearing that these fans are super,duper quiet, even though costly(to me), i am inclining to buy 2 , if i can use this fan behind the plasma panel also. I have 1 feet of open space between my plasma and the wall.

ideas??

Dont mount a fan flush against a wall it will GREATLY minimize the flow rate... give the fan atleast a gap between the wall.. so it can pull in air without sucking the wall. I think any ventilation is good .. however be VERY careful not to blow air into the receiver... blowing air into a component is only good when you have a air path on the opposite side venting out. You do get some ambient cooling when blowing into a cooling case.. and thermometers measuring ambient temp will show an improvement. The down side is you get hot spot inside the casing where the air gets shoved around in small pools that become trapped in mini yeti's (like lil turbulent tornadoes).. this stagnant air gets overheated and can overheat other parts of your device (it likely may not be enough to damage anything but its not an efficient usage of passive cooling fan)... Also I do believe the fans on the bottom of this receiver suck in and blow up... so a fan on top blowing up and out assists this design. fan bottom.. and your fan ontop... airflow going in a 1 direction bottom to top... sweet setup.

If you are saying you want to blow over the top of your gear and vent the ambient hot air around your receiver.. this will mostly benefit your other equipment.. you may see a small improvement on receiver temp too.. the best bang for your buck is going to be actively venting air out of the top of this receiver directly.

MegaHurtz83

10-28-07, 06:52 PM

I suppose it is working then. Thanks for the help. I wish I just could see somewhere that it was actually working. Will TrueHD on the A35 work via bitstream?

woots

10-28-07, 06:53 PM

I tired this 3 days back and worked like a charm. since then i had a question/doubt. If some of you guys have a 720p or 1080p plasma/lcd, isn't the tv upconversion better than the receivers?? what i mean is let the receiver pass what it can, and the higher end tv do its part of the job?? rather than the receiver upconvert to 720p and the 720p plasma not do anything??(not sure how this works??) confused/curious....

For this particular room I avoid Standard def everything cause i just want 108p sexiness. In fact I have become a bit of a 1080i/p snob.. I can barely stand to look at anything that isnt created in those resolutions.. I start seeing pixelaztion and it drives me nutz. Because of this I never really put the 480-720 up convert quality of this receiver through its paces ... I am not sure if its good... hopefully I never have to find out. :) The one device I own that is component outputs 1080p component so I just still pipe that through my TV directly and send a toslink (optical) cable to the receiver for the audio.

woots

10-28-07, 06:58 PM

I suppose it is working then. Thanks for the help. I wish I just could see somewhere that it was actually working. Will TrueHD on the A35 work via bitstream?

I am not active in the HD DVD camp.. I do know all the facts... however, I do know the A35 was supposed to allow True HD and DTS HD MA to be decoded on the receiver... (check the A35 thread on AVS forums... plenty of Onkyo 805/905 owners will be in those camps who own these new format players) I do recall hearing some kind of drama from that A35 camp.. something like they were getting problem (I dont know the details.. be sure to read up.. i think they were getting random audio drops outs from true hd when the receiver was decoding)

... However I DO know the bdp1400 samsung blu ray player outputs both True HD and DTS HD MA sucesfully to onkyo 805/905 receiver (so therefore it will work on 705 too)

Here are AVS forums links for both camps.. so you can read up:

HD DVD
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/forumdisplay.php?f=151

Blu Ray
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/forumdisplay.php?f=149

StPaulieGuy

10-28-07, 08:23 PM

I have a Phillips 724 DVD player. I've hooked the Audio up through the optical. I've hooked up the video signal through component cables. I can get the audio, but not the video. I've used the Receiver menu to select (In 1) for DVD, and OPT1 for audio. I've used the DVD menu to select YCBCR for the output. Still nothing. Are there any settings that would foul it up? I can get a video signal through RCA cables. Thanks.

StPaulieGuy

10-28-07, 08:45 PM

I've got component from DVD to Reciever, and S sideo from Reciever to TV.

I think that's the problem, because the signal steps down. Sound reasonable?

scarecrow420

10-28-07, 09:22 PM

I've got component from DVD to Reciever, and S sideo from Reciever to TV.

I think that's the problem, because the signal steps down. Sound reasonable?

Correct... the onkyo can upconvert svideo/composite to go via component (or HDMI) but not the other way around.

JakiChan

10-28-07, 09:51 PM

Does anyone know if the 705 can deal with non-HDCP sources via HDMI?

smgord

10-28-07, 11:40 PM

immikeulate

10-28-07, 11:42 PM

scarecrow420

10-29-07, 12:33 AM

I'm hoping someone can help me figure out if I have a problem with the receiver or the sub (or neither).

Here's the problem: The sub outputs nothing at all, except immediately after I pump a prominent bass signal through it, such as the receiver test tone, or dance music. After I do that, there is a hum that is basically only audible with my ear up against the speaker, and it outputs bass occasionally, at times that seem appropriate, even if simply watching a TV show. After a while of watching the TV show, or some other signal that is light on the bass, or when turning on the receiver (assuming I just turn on a TV show, and not one of the aforementioned signals), the hum goes away (or, never appears) and there is no output at all. One thing to note -- when doing level calibration, it takes a few seconds for the sub test tone to kick in, if I'm starting from a point where the sub has no hum and is doing nothing. All of the other speakers play the test tone immediately. If I'm starting from a point where the sub has already been "activated", the test tone plays immediately.

Here's the setup: I have the 705 (Wednesday is the last day to return it) and a new Aperion S-8 sub. The sub is connected to the sub pre-out via an RCA cable. The sub volume is turned all the way up, the sub crossover is set to about 90 Hz (and previously I had it cranked all the way up, with no discernable difference). On the receiver, sub is set to yes, LPF of LFE is set to 100 Hz, the surround speakers and center are set to 80 HZ, and the front towers were set to full band but are now set to 80 Hz (again, with no discernable difference).

Any ideas would be appreciated -- I don't have another sub in the house, so I don't have an obvious way to check that it is the sub's fault and not the receiver's.you say you have the sub's onboard volume control all the way up? This may have led to audyssey applying a very large negative speaker level trim to the sub channel. That may then mean the 705 isnt sending enough of a signal to the sub for it to realise it is meant to switch on.

You should set the onboard sub volume to halfway or less, and then make sure the 705 sub channel level is "more reasonable", say no more than -5db and see if that may help.

Does the sub have a light on the back indicating when it is on or not? eg my sub light is red when it is in standby and flicks to green when it has received a signal from the 705 and turns itself on. Basically it sounds like your sub is not turning itself on when you want it to. My sub also has an option to be "always on" - for troubleshooting you could try setting this on your sub (if it has that) and then assess whether it does indeed play sub-bass more often, particularly first up if you start playing something after having left it silent for a while, make sure the test tones instantly play and so on. If so then it would seem the problem is with the "auto on" functionality, and hopefully you can solve that by lowering the sub's own volume, and raising the 705 level

smgord

10-29-07, 12:48 AM

you say you have the sub's onboard volume control all the way up? This may have led to audyssey applying a very large negative speaker level trim to the sub channel. That may then mean the 705 isnt sending enough of a signal to the sub for it to realise it is meant to switch on.

You should set the onboard sub volume to halfway or less, and then make sure the 705 sub channel level is "more reasonable", say no more than -5db and see if that may help.

Does the sub have a light on the back indicating when it is on or not? eg my sub light is red when it is in standby and flicks to green when it has received a signal from the 705 and turns itself on. Basically it sounds like your sub is not turning itself on when you want it to. My sub also has an option to be "always on" - for troubleshooting you could try setting this on your sub (if it has that) and then assess whether it does indeed play sub-bass more often, particularly first up if you start playing something after having left it silent for a while, make sure the test tones instantly play and so on. If so then it would seem the problem is with the "auto on" functionality, and hopefully you can solve that by lowering the sub's own volume, and raising the 705 level

This sub only has one light, which shows whether or not it is receiving power and turned on. In terms of the 705 level, Audyssey had set everything to around -3, and I had experimented with turning the sub's level up, till I hit about +2. I moved it back down, and have adjusted the volume on the sub as well, but nothing is having much of an effect. At this point, the only evidence I have that the thing even works is that I can get the test tones to play. It really does seem like it's not receiving the signal, or not turning on when it should, but nothing I'm doing seems to have much of an effect on that, unfortunately.

marciecat

10-29-07, 09:53 AM

Here is my set-up:
Moto 3416 STB via HDMI > Mitsu 46 flat panel LCD
Moto STB Toslink optical out>705 optical in
DVD via component>TV
TV via coax digital>705 digital in (not the game port)
705 via HDMI>TV HDMI in

Problem: I can only get the DVD player to be recognized by the 705 when I push the #3 button (Cab/sat) on the remote.

Questions: 1) comments on set-up in general
2) how to get DVD to be recognized by the DVD button on the remote

dropzone7

10-29-07, 10:27 AM

A question for Jeremy Anderson or anyone else that might have a suggestion. Jeremy had some good advice for a Paradigm speaker owner in an earlier post. What would you suggest for Ascend? I have CBM-170's for fronts, CMT-340 for center and HTM-200's for surrounds. Audessey set the front sound stage as "full band" which does not seem right. The Ascends are very clear and neutral but they definately need the sub in the mix. Audessey set my sub at -15db and LFE sounds pretty good, not boomy or over the top. Would a different crossover for the fronts and center make my dialogue more audible? I find that although speech is clear it is a little low.

price3

10-29-07, 10:52 AM

megahurtz,
RobertR1 is correct, as of right now only the A35 can bitstream Tru HD and DTS-MA to the onkyos. The XA2 is "suppossed" to get a firmware upgrade to allow it also. Unless you just have to see the words light up on the receiver, you are getting the exact same sound on truHD by setting the A2 to output PCM. Since no US releases I know of use DTS-MA you aren't missing anything by saving $400 upgrade cost. That said if I were buying a new HD DVD player today it would be the A35.

dropzone7

10-29-07, 11:07 AM

fumoffu

10-29-07, 11:10 AM

Quick question for someone in the know. Becasue of my money draining 705 I just upgraded my front speakers to the Yamaha Ns-777s. They support bi-wiring. My question is can I bi-wire the speakers from the receiver or do I have to have an amplifier to bi-wire?

Have you done a search for the difference between Bi-wiring and Bi-Amping the 705 should support either for just you front speakers if you are not running 7.1. I personally can't imagin that it'll make a large difference. But you never know.

Tnedator

10-29-07, 11:19 AM

Hi, I have a couple questions about the SR705.

Second, I want to confirm that the 705 will support my needs. Specifically, I need to have 6 video sources hooked in the back, and still leave the front S-Video available.

Requirements:

Rear Inputs:
DirecTV HR10-250 Comp/HDMI - Optical
DirecTV HR20-100 Comp/HDMI - Optical
Soon: HD-DVD or BluRay DVD Comp/HDMI - Optical
Xbox360 Component - Optical
Sony Mega Changer 480p component - Coax
Nintendo Wii 480p component - Unknown (a am hooked up L/R stereo at moment)

Front Input:
Laptop via front panel - S-Video

Output:
Infocus IN76 Projector Component/HDMI

My first question about a/v sync was answered, but not the above one about inputs.

Can someone confirm whether or not the 705 will support having 6 sources hooked up at once? I know it has enough physical inputs in the back. The question is where their are enough selectable/programmable sources to assign the physical inputs.

Meaning. Some receivers have sources like:
DVD
TV
CBL
DVR

And you can assign physical inputs like Component 1, Component 2, HDMI 1, Optical 1, Optical 2, etc. to each source.

So, my question is how many of these types of sources does the 705 have? Can I hook up 6 devices. 3 to the HDMI ports and 3 to the Component inputs at the same time?

Thanks

achung123

10-29-07, 11:29 AM

Hi all. I have a bit general question here. I am about to order Onkyo 705 as my very first real receiver, and the more I read about it, seems to me that there is more small problems here and there - mainly on upscaling issue (unless it is HDMI in, all other input will be out as 720p - please correct me if I am wrong). I wonder... compare with Sony 5200ES, which is better for movie watching? Well... I just got a set of new Mirage 550 speakers for my 5.1 system, and I do 50 movie / 30 music / 20 TV ..... any suggestion which receiver I should get? Also, a lot of people say very good things about the auto speakers setup for Onkyo(one of the main reason why I want 705); by compare with Sony auto setup, which one is better? It is a important thing a lazy people like me... hahaha

Please help....thanks!

afrotropic

10-29-07, 11:40 AM

My first question about a/v sync was answered, but not the above one about inputs.

Can someone confirm whether or not the 705 will support having 6 sources hooked up at once? I know it has enough physical inputs in the back. The question is where their are enough selectable/programmable sources to assign the physical inputs.

Meaning. Some receivers have sources like:
DVD
TV
CBL
DVR

And you can assign physical inputs like Component 1, Component 2, HDMI 1, Optical 1, Optical 2, etc. to each source.

So, my question is how many of these types of sources does the 705 have? Can I hook up 6 devices. 3 to the HDMI ports and 3 to the Component inputs at the same time?

Thanks

I have STB & DVD/VCR combo into HDMI 1 & 2, DVD into Component 1, iPOD dock into GAME video, iPOD audio into TAPE - that is 4 video inputs. There are still HDMI3 & Component 2 & 3 left so that would give you seven total and this is off the top of my head. To your point, yes 3 into HDMI and 3 into Component will work.

arbitrage000

10-29-07, 12:00 PM

The receiver should set itself to "pure audio." Make sure you're outputting PCM from the HD-A2. You can't pass TruHD as bitstream to the receiver. It needs to be decoded internally at the player level and then passed down to the receiver as PCM.

Are you sure about the "pure audio" part of your answer, I thought the 705 should be set to a listening mode like "DPLIIx" (if one has 7.1) or else just "Multichannel" listening modes. Is there a benefit using "pure audio" listening mode instead of multichannel for incoming 5.1 PCM with a 5.1 setup??

Thanks...

Uptown193

10-29-07, 01:05 PM

Did you guys see that poll on he main page of this forum about Lip-sync problems. I guess the 705 is not the only one with it.

Tnedator

10-29-07, 02:09 PM

I have STB & DVD/VCR combo into HDMI 1 & 2, DVD into Component 1, iPOD dock into GAME video, iPOD audio into TAPE - that is 4 video inputs. There are still HDMI3 & Component 2 & 3 left so that would give you seven total and this is off the top of my head. To your point, yes 3 into HDMI and 3 into Component will work.

Looking at the manul and picture of the remote, it looks like there are only 4 or 5 video sources:
DVD
VCR/DVR
CBL/SAT
GAME/TV
AUX (?? is this mapped to front inputs only? Some do that?)

Then, the ones I assume are audio only are:
Tape
Tuner
CD
Phono

So, looking at this, unless Tape and/or CD are completely configurable, which hasn't been the case on other receivers I have had, it doesn't look like I can have 6 video sources connected at the same time.

I really like this receiver, but I can't tell whether or not the 6 video sources is possible.

rutlian

10-29-07, 02:34 PM

I just watched The Crank and the descent (bluray movies) with my panny bd10a and when I hit the display over my 705 remote it read mch pcm 7.1 and I can't choose other dsp modes accept multich or thx select ect. Nevertheless it was awesome experience I am glad I bought the 705.:D

afrotropic

10-29-07, 02:50 PM

I posted a few weeks ago about a problem I was having trying to switch a new Panasonic DVD/VCR combo (DMREZ47K) w/1080p upscaling with the my new Onkyo TX-SR705 (employing an HDMI>DVI cable) to my 57" Sony HD TV (KP-57WV700) that only has a DVI input. The Panny worked great HDMI>DVI direct to the TV, but would not switch through the ‘705. I was successfully switching a Comcast HD STB, though. I got no responses on this board to speak of during my initial inquiries.

I called Onkyo, talked to someone, and they told me that there are still compatibility problems between devices employing HDMI since the protocol is still evolving and I was SOL w/regards to the Panny. When I told him my wife had gotten a new Toshiba 32" LCD HDTV (32HL67) for the bedroom, he suggested connecting the '705 output using HDMI>HDMI directly to the Toshiba to see if that would work. If the '705 switched the Panny to the Toshiba, then it was the Sony TVs' problem not the '705. Nothing happened - well something happened. The '705 stopped working with the HDMI>DVI cable and would not work HDM>HDMI to the new Toshiba. I could not even get the onscreen menu to come up. I turned off all the equipment when trying different connections, but did not unplug them – that might have blown something…

I had 36 days of ownership on the ‘705 when I packed it up and brought it back to Circuit City. I played the idiot and told the guys what had happened. My real concern was not that the unit failed, but would not connect HDMI>HDMI after being connected HDMI>DVI for a month. What happened if my TV craps out before the ‘705? The two guys I talked to were cool and gave me another ‘705. They said if it would not switch the Panny, I could have my $ back.

First
Connected the new Toshiba HDMI>HDMI to the ‘705 output. Turned on the TV first, ‘705 second - menu came right up. I configured HDMI1 to DVD/VCR & HDMI2 to CAB/SAT.

Second
(Unplugged the components from the wall socket each time I switched wiring this time) Connected the Panny HDMI>HDMI to the ‘705 HDMI1 input and left the Toshiba TV connected HDMI>HDMI. Turned TV on first, ‘705 second & selected DVD/VCR input and then turned on Panny third. It took 20 sec. or so, but then the onscreen menu for the Panny showed up on the Toshiba TV.

Third
Connected the Scientific Atlanta Explorer 8300HD Comcast STB HDMI>HDMI to the ‘705 HDMI2 input. Toshiba TV on first, ‘705 on, selected CAB/SAT and turned on the Comcast STB. All golden.

Fourth
Disconnected the Toshiba TV and connected the Sony TV HDMI>DVI to the ‘705 HDMI output. With the CAB/SAT still selected, the cable signal shown through on the TV. However, the Panny signal would not pass through when I switched to the DVD/VCR input. I reconnected the Toshiba and started exploring the Panny settings. The HDMI resolution was set to AUTO so I decided to “hardwire” it to 1080i, the maximum resolution for the Sony TV. After reconnecting the Sony and 15 sec. delay, the Panny onscreen menu appeared. I selected the ‘705 Setup and continued to reprogram the ‘705 variables for my system. I think the Panny switched to 1080p when it communicated with the '705's HDMI v.1.3a so hardwiring to 1080i kept it from sending a video signal too high in resolution for the TV. Anyone?

Fifth
After programming the ‘705 (minus Audessey), the Comcast STB signal would flicker on/off sporadically. Oh ****, here it goes again I thought. I turned everything off and unplugged everything. After powering up, I turned on the TV first, ‘705 second and STB third. Golden once again. It does take approx.15 sec when I switch back and forth between the Panny and the STB for the signal to re-establish, but all is good.

I do not know if this helps anyone out there, but I am going to post my trial and tribulations on several sites. There must be a ton of HDTV’s out there with only DVI connections and I could not find anyone talking about it when I went looking.

HDTV: Sony KP-57WV700 (57”)
STB: Comcast Scientific Atlanta 8300HD DVR
DVD: Sony progressive scan, component out
DVD/VCR: Panasonic DMREZ47K
Receiver: Onkyo TX-SR705
Amp (zone2): Rotel RMB-1066 (6-channel, 60W/channel)
Speakers (F): Cerwin-Vega VS120
Speaker (C): Boston Acoustics CRC
Speakers (surround F/R): Boston Acoustics DSi255

WaveyD4vey

10-29-07, 03:53 PM

hey guys...im gonna be purchasing either the 705 or the 805 here in the next month...when i get my new receiver im also going to be upgrading my speakers...i havent decided yet which speakers but one of the pairs im considering is 4ohms...will the 705 drive a 4ohm load without stuggling to do it? im pretty sure the 805 can handle it well enough but id like to save $200 if possible...and no im not buying any external amps...if it came down to it id just get the 8ohm speakers and be done with it

dariuszr

10-29-07, 04:05 PM

I have STB & DVD/VCR combo into HDMI 1 & 2, DVD into Component 1, iPOD dock into GAME video, iPOD audio into TAPE - that is 4 video inputs. There are still HDMI3 & Component 2 & 3 left so that would give you seven total and this is off the top of my head. To your point, yes 3 into HDMI and 3 into Component will work.

Correct me if I'm wrong but after reading 705 manual I don't think that's true. Neither HDMI nor Component are inputs selectable by themselves. They have to be assigned to one of the other inputs. Since you only have 5 separate video inputs (4 back/1 front), that's the max video connections you can have , meaning 1 hdmi or component will be left unconnected, pretty silly if you ask me. That was the reason I went with Pioneer 92txh, since HDMI connections on it are separate inputs (don't have to be assinged), that gives me 6 rear + 3 hdmi + 1 front = 10 total video connections, of which 6 can be hi-def. Of course it's also twice the price...

Jeremy Anderson

10-29-07, 04:52 PM

One last question, I'm a noob when it comes to understand LFE crossover setting. Why did you recommend 120 over 80, which seems to be norm? My sub is an auto on and it has phase settings. Right now Phase is set to 0 which is recommended in the manual when placing the sub in line with the front speakers. It's between the FL and Center. The sub power is cranked to max and crossover on the sub to 150 so that it stays out of the way. On the receiver, turning my cross over to 120 but having my FR,C,FL set to 70 and surrounds to 80, what is it actually doing? I know you touched on it above to it was a bit too technical for me at this point.

The LFE channel is, by its nature, already filtered with a 120Hz brickwall filter during encoding. That's why it's the ".1" in 5.1/6.1/7.1 - it only contains 1/10th of full range audio in the other channels (i.e. 20Hz-20kHz). Because the LFE channel is intended only for truly low frequency information, little over 80Hz is put in that channel during mixing because you don't want the subwoofer to be easy to localize. The THX conceit is that you should filter the subwoofer at 80Hz despite that existing 120Hz brickwall in the source, primarily for reasons of reducing noise/hum or to prevent it from being localized.

The crossovers on the other channels are bass management, meaning they redirect bass from the speakers to the subwoofer. The LFE crossover, however, doesn't redirect anything. It simply truncates data that is in the LFE channel, meaning everything above that point in the mix is thrown away (only in the LFE channel - redirected bass from the speakers is still there). My reason for setting it to 120Hz despite the THX suggested setting is that I want the subwoofer to fully reproduce the LFE channel, since my goal with my system is accurate reproduction of the source material. However, this is a really anal thing... since, as I said, few mixes contain much in the LFE channel above 80Hz anyway. I just don't want to clip any harmonics that might be in that range, since that affects the perceived timbre of the sound.

You probably won't hear a difference one way or the other with that setting, so it's not a huge difference. I would, however, dial your sub's gain/power down a bit from max.

CitznFish

10-29-07, 04:56 PM

Are there any other solutions to the audio lip sync issues? I saw the post on page 62 but that didn't clear them all up. Currently my lower channels seem to sync fine, but Speed TV HD (607 on DTV) does not. It's off by a noticeable amount!

If I have the HD20 and Onkyo 705 are there any settings I should use? I tried changing teh speaker distance and that did noting. I set audio sync to 0ms and that helped the lower channels, but I watch SpeedTV a lot and it's really bothering me...

Any ideas?

Thanks!

Uptown193

10-29-07, 06:14 PM

but Speed TV HD (607 on DTV) does not. It's off by a noticeable amount!

Speed TV HD is available. What cable service you have? where u live?

woots

10-29-07, 07:38 PM

Did you guys see that poll on he main page of this forum about Lip-sync problems. I guess the 705 is not the only one with it.

Most of the new HDMI generation will be noticing delay issues. Lip sync has been a hot topic ever since hdmi came out. It took until 1.3 for them to even address it (with lip sync correction). I remember when hdmi 1.2 1st came out the conversations were like well they didn't include the lip sync correction this round, we will all have to wait for 1.3 or 1.4. Its been known for a long time. What im saying is the problem is HDMI not these receivers.

What makes this situation worse, is there is a couple of major HDTV channels that lag for most states in the USA (TNT HD for example). These may have been mildly annoying to users or not noticeable before the receivers was purchased, but after the receivers they get so much worse. Its likely that most hdmi 1.3 receiver owners will get a lag issue; Since they all allow for themselves to be manually adjusted for delay. Once owners get focused on a lip sync delay issue everything gets critical. Even when a user tweaks the delay perfect for most HD channels, the bad channels will always remain badly delayed forever (until they update their equipment at the studio, TNT admits they have a problem with HD delay).

I think the reason people are noticing receiver lag out of the box on these 1.3 hdmi receiver (with all brands in this new generation)...is cause of that "manual" delay adjust setting. Since its manual and not automated... its going to be out of sync for most users right out of the box. The problem is everything gets shifted out of whack based on whatever the default delay setting is on each of these receivers. Its up to the user to bring in back in sync manually.

Outside of HDMI technology being at the core of the "real" issue here.. the hdmi 1.3 is only exacerbating the issue even further cause of that manual adjustment implementation. In addition, I think some of these new receivers implementation of it is poor. It should be able to be FULLY turned on and off. (manual adjust or turned off) Also the sliding scale for example on these Onkyo's isn't large enough I have long since said they need another 1/4 second to 1/2 second on the top and bottom end to really cover all the bases for proper adjustment.

Once HDMI matures and all of our components are new in the entire pipeline (even cable/sat boxes) I think these issues will be old news. I guess this is the penance we pay for being on the so called "bleed edge" of new technology. It all reminds me of the issues of USB back when it 1st came out on computer... it really was a rough technology until 1.2 as come into full swing.. 1.0 was the worst! So until the day when we have all 1.3(or higher) hdmi equipment in the pipeline I think we will get more and more users who have lip sync issues.

smgord

10-29-07, 08:00 PM

Jeremy Anderson

10-29-07, 09:36 PM

I'm the one with the subwoofer problem from yesterday. I've worked with the sub company to troubleshoot, and it seems pretty clear that the problem is not with the sub. I have a few days left to exchange the 705, but, in the meantime, I turned the sub up to +5 db on the calibration setting. That seems to be working better, but would it be normal for the sub to be up that high, when all of the other speakers are at -2 or -3?

As a quick reminder, the issue was that the sub would basically ignore bass signals unless it had been recently "activated" with lots of bass -- such as the test tone or dance music. So, immediately after doing that, quieter bass would play through the sub, but the same passages would not output through the sub if the sub had been given a chance to "rest" first. Odd, I know, especially since this sub does not have the feature where it "sleeps" when there is no signal coming through.

Does it sound like it is worth exchanging the 705 over this issue, even if it is now working OK; that is, does having to set it so high mean that it is actually not working correctly?

Thanks ...

I did a quick internet search and from what I can see from several reviews, the S8 DOES have a sleep mode, with a delay before it turns off (to prevent it powering off during playback). If it's not triggering with low level playback, you'll need to turn the gain/volume down on the subwoofer and then turn the subwoofer channel trim up on the 705. Having the gain too high on the sub itself may be the reason you're hearing some hum. This should be easily solved by turning up the level on the 705 and turning the gain down on the sub. It sounds to me like the sub amp's line level detection requires a little higher level to trigger, so bumping up the trim on the 705 should take care of that.

Just a tip for beginners: Always attempt to set gain on the sub to level match so you can keep subwoofer trims near 0, especially if there's an auto-sleep. Even if there isn't, running excessively high gain on the sub can unnecessarily add noise (much in the same way that turning a receiver up to its highest volume level with nothing playing can produce slight noise/hum).

smgord

10-29-07, 09:51 PM

I did a quick internet search and from what I can see from several reviews, the S8 DOES have a sleep mode, with a delay before it turns off (to prevent it powering off during playback). If it's not triggering with low level playback, you'll need to turn the gain/volume down on the subwoofer and then turn the subwoofer channel trim up on the 705. Having the gain too high on the sub itself may be the reason you're hearing some hum. This should be easily solved by turning up the level on the 705 and turning the gain down on the sub. It sounds to me like the sub amp's line level detection requires a little higher level to trigger, so bumping up the trim on the 705 should take care of that.

Just a tip for beginners: Always attempt to set gain on the sub to level match so you can keep subwoofer trims near 0, especially if there's an auto-sleep. Even if there isn't, running excessively high gain on the sub can unnecessarily add noise (much in the same way that turning a receiver up to its highest volume level with nothing playing can produce slight noise/hum).

Thanks, Jeremy. Because I am new to subwoofers, can I attempt to make sure I understand your terminology?

By trim on the 705, you mean the level on the level calibration menu, right? And the gain on the sub is the subwoofer level/volume, rather than the crossover frequency (which it's ok to turn all the way up), right? Assuming all that's correct, I'm still left with the sub trim up at 5 right now, which isn't exactly near 0, but maybe is where it needs to be for this sub? It does seem to be working much better now, and I do have the subwoofer level/volume at about the half-way mark, which has gotten rid of the hum.

Odd about the sleep mode thing ... according to Aperion (who were very helpful), the S-8 does not have it -- they said their more expensive subs do, but not this one. Is it possible you were looking at the S-8 APR?

djap2

10-29-07, 09:54 PM

Quick question for someone in the know. Becasue of my money draining 705 I just upgraded my front speakers to the Yamaha Ns-777s. They support bi-wiring. My question is can I bi-wire the speakers from the receiver or do I have to have an amplifier to bi-wire?

I had my 705 using bi-amp mode for a 5.1 setup (BA VR40s in the front). I believe the Front L + R go to the highs and the Rear Sorround L+R is used for Front L + R Lows. Just make sure you remove and jumper connections on the speakers and then set the 705 to bi-amp mode.

smgord

10-29-07, 11:57 PM

Jeremy Anderson

10-30-07, 02:08 AM

I'm getting pretty frustrated with the receiver. Even with the trim on the receiver set to +5 db, it *again* stopped working until I watched a movie scene with a ton of bass, and then it started outputting lower levels of bass (that it had previously ignored) as well. In the meantime, according to Audyssey and my SPL meter, it should be set to -2 or -3, not +5. I definitely got better results at +5, but not perfect, and I'm not understanding why it needs to be set that high, apparently at the expense of proper calibration of the entire system. I haven't noticed anything else wrong with my 705, so I'm loathe to exchange it -- lip sync is OK, no drop outs, etc. (not to mention all the hassle involved) but it seems like the sub is working fine, and while I'm not positive, it seems like the 705 is not.

I would *love* for someone to convince me the 705 is working, or else to explain how I can properly calibrate the system with the sub bumped up to +5 or +6, but it is looking like my best option is to exchange the 705 at this point.

First, you are correct about my terminology. Try bumping the subwoofer trim on the 705 up to like +8. Then use your SPL meter and decrease the volume control on the sub itself until the level matches your other speakers. That essentially increases the output level of the subwoofer pre-out.

If it's still dropping out after that, it's either the amp on the subwoofer itself or something screwy with your 705. Or it may just be that your particular sub requires a higher than normal level on the line in. I had a similar problem with an older Onkyo receiver and my old Polk sub, and it ended up being because the output level of the subwoofer pre-out on the receiver was too low from the factory. I'm pretty sure that this isn't a problem with the 705, though I suppose you might have gotten a bunk unit.

Are you absolutely sure you have the sub hooked up to the sub pre-out on the 705? I'm just spitballing here. And are you sure there isn't a switch on the back that says OFF/ON/AUTO?

Jeremy Anderson

10-30-07, 02:27 AM

Okay, I scrounged and found a pic of the S8's amp, and you are correct that it has no auto switch. All I know to tell you is to make sure you're using the input marked SUB IN on the amp (which is the LEFT IN). Since there's no auto-on involved, you could also try the RIGHT IN and see if the problem goes away (i.e. whether it's the input on the subwoofer that's messed up).

Aperion's instructions recommend that you start calibrating with the volume control at about 1/3rd, phase switch at 0. You might try that and then use the 705's trim to bring it up to level with a meter, even if the resulting trim setting ends up a high number. And since you're not using the line-outs on the subwoofer amp, turn that crossover all the way up to 120 to reduce any chance of delay.

fubdap

10-30-07, 09:22 AM

First, you are correct about my terminology. Try bumping the subwoofer trim on the 705 up to like +8. Then use your SPL meter and decrease the volume control on the sub itself until the level matches your other speakers. That essentially increases the output level of the subwoofer pre-out.

If it's still dropping out after that, it's either the amp on the subwoofer itself or something screwy with your 705. Or it may just be that your particular sub requires a higher than normal level on the line in. I had a similar problem with an older Onkyo receiver and my old Polk sub, and it ended up being because the output level of the subwoofer pre-out on the receiver was too low from the factory. I'm pretty sure that this isn't a problem with the 705, though I suppose you might have gotten a bunk unit.

Are you absolutely sure you have the sub hooked up to the sub pre-out on the 705? I'm just spitballing here. And are you sure there isn't a switch on the back that says OFF/ON/AUTO?

Smgord:
I will second Jeremy's suggestion. Make sure you hook up the sub to the proper connection. There are two sub connections at the back of the 705. The one marked sub pre-out is the one you need.

smgord

10-30-07, 10:36 AM

Smgord:
I will second Jeremy's suggestion. Make sure you hook up the sub to the proper connection. There are two sub connections at the back of the 705. The one marked sub pre-out is the one you need.

Thanks, guys. I'm going to try all of Jeremy's suggestions tonight. If that doesn't do it, I am going to swap out the 705. I suppose if it keeps going like that, I'll swap out the sub (I have a bit more time to do that).

I am absolutely positive I've got it plugged into the pre-out. At one point last night, I really felt like I had it fixed at +5, but then I had the same issue again, so I'm not sure that turning it up is going to be the answer.

arbitrage000

10-30-07, 11:34 AM

Speed TV HD is available. What cable service you have? where u live?

+1...where is SpeedTVHD available and for how long has it been available?, I've seen nothing on their website about it. Speed is the only SD channel I watch and I watch it a lot. I'm lucky enough in Canada to get my F1 on TSNHD but the rest of Speed's lineup would be killer with a little upscaling.

joed32

10-30-07, 01:10 PM

+1...where is SpeedTVHD available and for how long has it been available?, I've seen nothing on their website about it. Speed is the only SD channel I watch and I watch it a lot. I'm lucky enough in Canada to get my F1 on TSNHD but the rest of Speed's lineup would be killer with a little upscaling.

I have it on DirecTv but they won't begin to make their own HD programming until February. I haven't checked to see how much HD they are showing. Looking forward to F1 hopefully next year. Daytona weekend will kick off their HD production.

Rygar

10-30-07, 02:00 PM

price3

10-30-07, 02:01 PM

Speed HD is one of the new channels DirecTv has just added in the last few weeks, I think we are up into the 70's now for HD channels. I also think SpeedHD is lagged from the source just like TNTHD. Any time you have one channel that is in synch and another is out, it isn't your system's fault.

bulldozer3

10-30-07, 02:53 PM

one quick question after all i've read here....

I've got my xbox 360 hooked up to the 705 via component with an optical cable for audio. Passed to the TV via the HDMI out. From what I read on this thread, it sounded like if you do this, it downconverts the resolution. Whats the deal on this, and should I just use component out on the 705 to the tv for the 360? or for that matter just plug it straight into the tv? I'm outputing 720p from the 360 since my tv is 720p (got the upgrade bug for a sony 60a3000 though :D ). thanks for the help and all the info I've gotten from here.

Jeremy Anderson

10-30-07, 03:19 PM

ok guys I need some help please :)

I have an onkyo 705 with the following speakers.

Center = JBL S Center II

Maximum Recommended Amplifier Power 150 Watts
Impedance 8 Ohms
Sensitivity (2.83V @ 1m) 91dB
Frequency Response (–3dB) 75Hz – 20kHz
Crossover Frequency(ies) 800Hz, 3200Hz

Front = JBL S310II 3-Way Speaker
Maximum Recommended Amplifier Power 200 Watts
Impedance 8 Ohms
Sensitivity (2.83V @ 1m) 91dB
Frequency Response (–3dB) 37Hz – 20kHz
Crossover Frequency 850, 3500Hz

Back x 4 = JBL HTI6C 2-Way 6-1/2" In-Ceiling Loudspeaker

Maximum Recommended Amplifier Power 100 Watts
Sensitivity (2.83V @ 1m) 88dB
Frequency Response (–10dB) 40Hz – 20kHz
Crossover Frequency 2kHz

Velodyne 10" VRP-Series Subwoofer

Amplifier power (in watts) 170 Watts
Frequency response 35Hz - 140Hz
Subwoofer driver size 10"
Enclosure type Ported

I have no clue what most of these numbers mean but I did the onkyo audyssey thingie with 4 locations. It put all the speakers to Full range but after reading this thread
I set the Center to 100 - Front to 80 - Back to 80 and Subwoofer to 80and that double bass thingie is off

I have a toshiba A20 and a regular DVD player. The toshiba is connected through HDMI and its set to PCM and the regular DVD player is connected through optical.

I can tell the difference between the two and the sound from the toshiba is superior BUT my issue with both of them (Regular DVD player and A20 even my cable box when i watch movies in 5.1 ) is that the dialog is hard to hear and when there is a lot of action in the screeen the sound is .. well not sure how to describe it but like blurr or there is no separation no definition its not crisp.

The back channel sound is very nice.

I like to say that when i set the onkyo to ALL stereo and i play music it sounds awesome! but when it comes to movies its like am missing something.

So my question(s) is

What am I doing wrong?

Are my front speakers too big for the center I have? Do I need to get a better center speaker.
Is my crossover wrong? Do i have Crappy speakers?
All of the above? lol

Forgive me for the long post but am new to all this and frustrated.

Thank you

I would set center to 90 (though you might get away with 80 - try it and see if bassy voices sound better), mains to 60, and surrounds to 70. You could do 60 with the surrounds based on the specs, but in-ceiling speakers rarely get their quoted response without enclosures behind them so I'd run them at 70.

You don't have crappy speakers, but it does seem like you'd benefit from a beefier center channel. For movies, the center channel carries like 40-60% of the audio, so if there's a larger center in that same series, it might be worth the upgrade. However, you might get a SPL meter ($35 from Radio Shack) and double-check your speaker levels. Also, I've found that despite dB levels being matched, I usually have to bump the center up 1dB to make voices sound consistent across the front.

Look back through the thread for tips on proper use of the mic when running Audyssey. I recommend running 6 positions. For the first three, do main listening position first (at least 1-2 feet from back wall if you can, with the mic on a tripod so that it is slightly above any headrests), then at least 3 feet to your right (while seated - left if you're facing your seat), then at least 3 feet to your left. The next three positions should be in roughly the same spot, but about 1-2 feet further into the room. This evens out peculiarities in bass response due to room boundaries. If after all of that you still don't care for the sound, turn Audyssey EQ'ing off and see what you think. Many people here don't care for what it does, and it may just not sound good with your particular speakers.

damnesiac

10-30-07, 03:22 PM

Decepticon07

10-30-07, 03:49 PM

dropzone7

10-30-07, 03:49 PM

Rygar

10-30-07, 04:25 PM

I would set center to 90 (though you might get away with 80 - try it and see if bassy voices sound better), mains to 60, and surrounds to 70. You could do 60 with the surrounds based on the specs, but in-ceiling speakers rarely get their quoted response without enclosures behind them so I'd run them at 70.

You don't have crappy speakers, but it does seem like you'd benefit from a beefier center channel. For movies, the center channel carries like 40-60% of the audio, so if there's a larger center in that same series, it might be worth the upgrade. However, you might get a SPL meter ($35 from Radio Shack) and double-check your speaker levels. Also, I've found that despite dB levels being matched, I usually have to bump the center up 1dB to make voices sound consistent across the front.

Look back through the thread for tips on proper use of the mic when running Audyssey. I recommend running 6 positions. For the first three, do main listening position first (at least 1-2 feet from back wall if you can, with the mic on a tripod so that it is slightly above any headrests), then at least 3 feet to your right (while seated - left if you're facing your seat), then at least 3 feet to your left. The next three positions should be in roughly the same spot, but about 1-2 feet further into the room. This evens out peculiarities in bass response due to room boundaries. If after all of that you still don't care for the sound, turn Audyssey EQ'ing off and see what you think. Many people here don't care for what it does, and it may just not sound good with your particular speakers.

Keep the sub at 80?

Thank you Jeremy will try it tonight :)

Jeremy Anderson

10-30-07, 05:19 PM

Keep the sub at 80?

Thank you Jeremy will try it tonight :)

LFE crossover won't make a big difference, but I would turn it to 120 just so you're not removing anything from the LFE channel. On the sub itself, turn the crossover all the way up.

the crane

10-30-07, 05:26 PM

I think I might have the same issue as Rygar. I have an Onkyo 705 paired with a set of Rocket 760's, Bigfoot 300 and 200 Surrounds

I ran the Audysee calibration and it wasn't even close to accurate. I hand calibrated with an SPL meter and was sort of confused by my findings.

The way it is set up now is as follows;

Speaker Config
Subwoofer - YES
Front 60HZ
Center 90HZ
Surround 70HZ
Surround Back NONE
LPF or LFE - 120HZ

Level Calibration
L - (-4)
C - (+6)
R - (-5)
SL - (0)
SR - (-1)
SUB - (-8)

Equalizer Setting is at NONE

The center channel just sounds "OFF."

I have a Toshiba XA2 with all speakers set to LARGE and the Level set to -5 across the board. The XA2 is connected using HDMI.

Regardless whether it is a DD+ or THD track the center seems muddy. Voices seem like the actors are talking with their hands over their mouthes. At -25 on the Onkyo volume I can barely hear the voices coming from the center. In order to watch a movie and be able to hear the voices in a realistic manner I have to turn the volume to -10 and then the sound from the rest of the speakers is ridiculously loud.

Does anyone have any ideas or suggestions. The rest of the speaker package sounds tremendous, the Center just never sounds realistic.

Any help would be appreciated.

Jeremy Anderson

10-30-07, 05:50 PM

I have a Toshiba XA2 with all speakers set to LARGE and the Level set to -5 across the board. The XA2 is connected using HDMI.

I'm confused - If you're using HDMI, why are you using the speaker and level settings on the XA2? I thought that was just for the analog outs. Am I wrong?

afrotropic

10-30-07, 05:51 PM

Correct me if I'm wrong but after reading 705 manual I don't think that's true. Neither HDMI nor Component are inputs selectable by themselves. They have to be assigned to one of the other inputs. Since you only have 5 separate video inputs (4 back/1 front), that's the max video connections you can have , meaning 1 hdmi or component will be left unconnected, pretty silly if you ask me. That was the reason I went with Pioneer 92txh, since HDMI connections on it are separate inputs (don't have to be assinged), that gives me 6 rear + 3 hdmi + 1 front = 10 total video connections, of which 6 can be hi-def. Of course it's also twice the price...

No, I stand corrected to you and Tnedator. Five is the max video - I checked with my onscreen setup. Tuner or Tape cannot be configured for any video input so the possible selections are CAB/SAT, DVD, DVD/VCR, GAME & AUX. Tnedator, if you like the Onkyo brand, then the '875 is your AVS having an extra AUX and extra HDMI input - allowing you to have six video inputs.

RobertR1

10-30-07, 05:53 PM

The LFE channel is, by its nature, already filtered with a 120Hz brickwall filter during encoding. That's why it's the ".1" in 5.1/6.1/7.1 - it only contains 1/10th of full range audio in the other channels (i.e. 20Hz-20kHz). Because the LFE channel is intended only for truly low frequency information, little over 80Hz is put in that channel during mixing because you don't want the subwoofer to be easy to localize. The THX conceit is that you should filter the subwoofer at 80Hz despite that existing 120Hz brickwall in the source, primarily for reasons of reducing noise/hum or to prevent it from being localized.

The crossovers on the other channels are bass management, meaning they redirect bass from the speakers to the subwoofer. The LFE crossover, however, doesn't redirect anything. It simply truncates data that is in the LFE channel, meaning everything above that point in the mix is thrown away (only in the LFE channel - redirected bass from the speakers is still there). My reason for setting it to 120Hz despite the THX suggested setting is that I want the subwoofer to fully reproduce the LFE channel, since my goal with my system is accurate reproduction of the source material. However, this is a really anal thing... since, as I said, few mixes contain much in the LFE channel above 80Hz anyway. I just don't want to clip any harmonics that might be in that range, since that affects the perceived timbre of the sound.

You probably won't hear a difference one way or the other with that setting, so it's not a huge difference. I would, however, dial your sub's gain/power down a bit from max.

Thanks much again, Jeremy. Really appreciate it and now it makes a lot more sense to me :)

I turned the sub down, and recalibrated. The audessy is obsessed with full band! but I used the settings you suggested and it sounds awesome now. Nice n' smooth all around with fluid bass vs overpowering like it was before. This helped out the humming from the sub also.

All the levels seemed good to the ear except center which I had to bump up again manually but that's not a problem. Quite happy with the audio part so far. Still gonna get a SPL meter and learn if that does anything. Kinda sucks that the Audessy EQ settings stay hidden. Would be interesting to see what it comes up with.

One last question if I may. What benefits, if any will I have going to a 805 or a Marantz? The video scaling is of 0 concern to me. Just care about the audio and maximum number of HDMI ports.

Decepticon07

10-30-07, 05:56 PM

Thanks much again, Jeremy. Really appreciate it and now it makes a lot more sense to me :)

I turned the sub down, and recalibrated. The audessy is obsessed with full band! but I used the settings you suggested and it sounds awesome now. Nice n' smooth all around with fluid bass vs overpowering like it was before. This helped out the humming from the sub also.

All the levels seemed good to the ear except center which I had to bump up again manually but that's not a problem. Quite happy with the audio part so far. Still gonna get a SPL meter and learn if that does anything. Kinda sucks that the Audessy EQ settings stay hidden. Would be interesting to see what it comes up with.

One last question if I may. What benefits, if any will I have going to a 805 or a Marantz? The video scaling is of 0 concern to me. Just care about the audio and maximum number of HDMI ports.

I believe the 805 just gives 30 more watts per channel and THX Ultra certification.

the crane

10-30-07, 05:58 PM

I'm confused - If you're using HDMI, why are you using the speaker and level settings on the XA2? I thought that was just for the analog outs. Am I wrong?

I read another post on AVS that says it isn't correct. Can't remember where the post was, but it said there was a difference.

Any thoughts on the Center Channel settings?

woots

10-30-07, 07:05 PM

Sorry to sound like Chicken Little here but is anyone else concerned with the dramatic price drop of the 705 since it's debut? Don't get me wrong, overall I'm very happy with mine and even happier to have gotten such a great deal, but the price has come down almost $200 just over the past couple months and there still isn't really much else around that can match it's features for under $1000 (aside from the 805).

The optimist in me says maybe they're just trying to undercut the compitition as the new models begin rolling out from other manufactures but I can't help but wonder if Onkyo may have a new "revised" model soon to be released that addresses some of the current known issues / complaints and they're trying to clear-out existing inventory?

I'd be curious to know if Onkyo has actually dropped the price to its retailers or if some stores have just cut their own profit margin? Anyone around here work for Circuit City and know if their cost has dropped?

The price is just dropping to the competitive price.. most of the earliest posters here got in during the 1st 1-2 weeks this receiver came out we all got a $550 (myself included) deal at circuit city and a few got $495... in my mind this is getting very close to the true (lowest) price of this receiver so many of us got fortunate early on (i am sure Onkyo is still price gouging the retailers but the 500 range is very low profit for retailer). They were small sales 4 hour sales that no one saw again to often. Slowly over course of 2 months I have seen the 705 slowly lowering.. and Dont be surprised if eventually its down around 500-550 down the road by next year or sooner. No need to be paranoid... they just over price "new" electronics WAY higher then they need to be... lets the manufacturers and retailers ALL cash in on bleeding edge electronics.

RobertR1

10-30-07, 07:16 PM

Stupid me paid $799 a week ago at Fry's. Guess what's going back :)

woots

10-30-07, 10:09 PM

For all the blu ray disney fans.. i found a website that you can turn in your movie codes for to get random disney schwag back. With Cars and Ratta coming to blu ray in a week I found this link off amazon when I placed my preorder.

http://disney.go.com/disneymovierewards/

looks like you type in the disney blu ray codes and you get points for stuff. Right now the blu ray movies give the biggest amount of points. Not sure if its worth it in the end.. but free works for me. Thought Id share this here .

Uptown193

10-30-07, 10:14 PM

There could be a lot of reasons for which we might never know. The price has nowhere to go but down so I would not be concerned with that. There will always be something "newer" or "better" on the horizon and receivers are like cell phones, specific models don't stay around for long, especially in the sub $1k range. Manufacturers try to take what worked best with their entire product line and then incorporate those things into the next model lineup in addition to some new things. At least the good ones do. This is why I try to buy things that I know I can sell in a few years and still get a decent amount of my money back to upgrade. You are investing in the future of the technology, not in a permanent solution for today. I try to think of it this way and then I never have regrets or buyer's remorse.

Well said my friend, I could not have said it any better.

If i have to purchase a new receiver next year b/c it has something that i want I will get it hands down. Sometimes I say to myself I should have waited and saved a lil more money and got the 905 or the Pio Elite VSX-94 series receiver but I settled for the 705 which I have no complaints about. Im sure ill be financially stable and/or richer next year at this time and who know ill spring for a top of the line AVR which will probably not even be necessary but just cause I can have it will make me feel better. :D

P.S.: My AVR cooler/fan will be delivered tomorrow, pics to follow. I love pics.

Uptown193

10-30-07, 10:19 PM

The price is just dropping to the competitive price.. most of the earliest posters here got in during the 1st 1-2 weeks this receiver came out we all got a $550 (myself included) deal at circuit city and a few got $495... in my mind this is getting very close to the true (lowest) price of this receiver so many of us got fortunate early on (i am sure Onkyo is still price gouging the retailers but the 500 range is very low profit for retailer). They were small sales 4 hour sales that no one saw again to often. Slowly over course of 2 months I have seen the 705 slowly lowering.. and Dont be surprised if eventually its down around 500-550 down the road by next year or sooner. No need to be paranoid... they just over price "new" electronics WAY higher then they need to be... lets the manufacturers and retailers ALL cash in on bleeding edge electronics.

Hey thats the world of depreciation and technology, look at when you by a brand new car, once you drive it off the lot it already losses $15,000 of its value. :eek:

smgord

10-30-07, 10:39 PM

gmitran

10-30-07, 11:21 PM

Just started into looking getting a 705. Found 1 for $567, include tax/ship/etc. Any recent sale for less? Trying to get a feel on what's a good price. THX.

Aloharay

10-30-07, 11:48 PM

I've been in the market for a 705 as well and that's the lowest price I've seen in recent weeks. Can you please let me know who is offering that price.

mjjstang

10-31-07, 12:00 AM

2 things about this receiver I can not figure out.

1. when in tv mode, the stupid receiver says DOCK, Why does it not say TV/Game on the receiver screen.

2. My movies that are coming from DVD via the S-video, (waiting on my ps3) are pumping through HDMI to the TV but the picture during any movement looks cartoonish, the still parts of the movie are great so i guess it is just a lot of pixelation, but why? I have heard of upscaling issues etc, but how do I just pump it straight through without these issues, it makes the picture unwatchable.

Thanks for any help.

varan

10-31-07, 12:19 AM

I do not know if this helps anyone out there, but I am going to post my trial and tribulations on several sites. There must be a ton of HDTV’s out there with only DVI connections and I could not find anyone talking about it when I went looking. I have sony KV-36HS510 CRT HDTV ( Good $1700 in 2002 :mad: , beats any non 1080p my miles in black levels, so no regrates ) with DVI ports. Works great with 705. Look at http://www.dealtime.com/xPF-Sony-KV-36HS510 just for kicks.

Jeremy Anderson

10-31-07, 12:51 AM

Can you all indulge me with one more subwoofer question? When running test tones through the level calibration setting, there is often a 4-5 second delay before the subwoofer tone comes through. There is never any delay with any of the other speakers. The delay occurs only when the subwoofer is *not* working. If I've recently run a lot of bass and "woken" the subwoofer up, the test tone is immediate. This is one of the things that is leading me to believe that the receiver needs to go back, so if this is standard, or others have noticed it, I'd like to hear about it. Thanks.

Honestly, that still sounds to me like the behavior you'd expect with a subwoofer's auto-on feature, though I know your sub isn't supposed to have it. I'm not even sure how that would possibly be a 705 problem, because the logic doesn't fit. I would lean toward it being a problem with the subwoofer's amp.

One way you might cheat and rule out the 705 as the cause would be to hook the sub up to the left channel pre-out instead of the subwoofer out... then disconnect your left speaker, set mains to large, wait 5-10 minutes for the sub to not have any audio for a bit, then crank up the left test tone and see if the sub reacts immediately or takes a few seconds to kick on. It won't produce a bass test tone, but it should have enough output to tell you whether the sub instantly gets a signal. If it does, then perhaps the 705's subwoofer out is screwy. If it behaves in the same way and doesn't kick on immediately, your sub's amp may be the problem.

I'm just spitballing here. Hope it helps.

Boogie7910

10-31-07, 01:02 AM

Well guys, got the Onkyo 805 today and hooked it up. Hum is gone!!!

Even at Max volume there is no Sub Hum at all. I don't know if I had at faulty Onkyo 705 AVR or if they all have problems, but I'm glad that's now over with.

I suggest anyone with a Onkyo 705 test for Hum. The easiest way to detect this is to have a sound source playing for 10 seconds or so and then switch to a source where no sound is coming out. As you turn the volume up, you should hear a Humming from your Sub get worse -- if it's also faulty like mine. It seems other's in the 705 thread have had this exact same issue.

Edit: Also, for some reason the more HDMI connections I had, made the Hum worse. When I unconnected the HDMI cables, the Hum decreased by a lot. But as I reconnected them 1 by 1, the Hum got noticeably worse.

This is very strange. Anyone know what could be wrong in the inner workings of the AVR to cause this? I will shoot the first person to mention anything about a grounding issue, as that is not the case at all.

Jeremy Anderson

10-31-07, 01:10 AM

All the levels seemed good to the ear except center which I had to bump up again manually but that's not a problem. Quite happy with the audio part so far. Still gonna get a SPL meter and learn if that does anything. Kinda sucks that the Audessy EQ settings stay hidden. Would be interesting to see what it comes up with.

One last question if I may. What benefits, if any will I have going to a 805 or a Marantz? The video scaling is of 0 concern to me. Just care about the audio and maximum number of HDMI ports.

Hey, I run my center 1dB hot too. SPL meter aside, voices that pan from left to center to right don't sound the same on my setup unless I bump the center up a notch.

The Audyssey EQ settings stay hidden because there is too much data to be represented on your screen. While the manual EQ is a 7-band equalizer that can be shown on screen, Audyssey might have a hundred adjustments going on. Given that these are not as simple as dragging a slider up and down, there'd be no way for you to see what it's doing. The only way to really analyze what MultEQ XT is doing is with the pro version, which uses a PC to make the calculations; however, the cost of that is far more than what you're paying for the 705. Denon receivers with MultEQ XT give you an approximation of what it does by copying Audyssey's calculated base curve to the 7-band EQ, but this is a very coarse representation of what it is doing in your room and can not show all of the adjustments.

As for the advantages of going with the 805 or Marantz, I'll leave that to others to answer. I'm perfectly happy with the 705 (though I wish it let you select Audyssey's target curve like the Denons do), and for my room size I don't need the added power of the 805.

immikeulate

10-31-07, 02:05 AM

I had my 705 using bi-amp mode for a 5.1 setup (BA VR40s in the front). I believe the Front L + R go to the highs and the Rear Sorround L+R is used for Front L + R Lows. Just make sure you remove and jumper connections on the speakers and then set the 705 to bi-amp mode.

Thanks for the replys but I'm using a 7.1 setup. So I'm referring to bi-wiring, not bi-amping. Apparently the woofers in the tower have their own inputs and then the mid woofer & tweeter share their own input as well. For example, I'm thinking I run two sets of speaker wires from the front left channel to the tower, then I run one set to the woofers & one to the highs & mids. Then I would repeat this process for the right side? Thus creating better sound. How far off am I?

devilchicken

10-31-07, 03:04 AM

Well guys, got the Onkyo 805 today and
Edit: Also, for some reason the more HDMI connections I had, made the Hum worse. When I unconnected the HDMI cables, the Hum decreased by a lot. But as I reconnected them 1 by 1, the Hum got noticeably worse.

This is very strange. Anyone know what could be wrong in the inner workings of the AVR to cause this? I will shoot the first person to mention anything about a grounding issue, as that is not the case at all.

Like I mentioned to you in a PM, mine has the same issue, only I dont have a sub and the buzz is audible thru the mains (or surrounds when enabled). Same exact behavior with the HDMI inputs increasing/decreasing the buzz.
Upgradeitis has bitten me though, might end up with a Denon 3808.. *wallet cries*

sevenftr

10-31-07, 09:27 AM

RICKPTAK

10-31-07, 09:55 AM

Like I mentioned to you in a PM, mine has the same issue, only I dont have a sub and the buzz is audible thru the mains (or surrounds when enabled). Same exact behavior with the HDMI inputs increasing/decreasing the buzz.
Upgradeitis has bitten me though, might end up with a Denon 3808.. *wallet cries*
The 805 fixed my hum problem for a lot cheaper than a Denon 3808

Chuck_IV

10-31-07, 10:16 AM

At my CC it's price is $799. I bought mine used from a guy who was upgrading to a higher end Yamaha.

My store lists it for that price too, but it's been on sale, at Circuitcity.com for a quite a bit less, for quite a while. You can just buy it online, for instore pickup.

smgord

10-31-07, 10:32 AM

Honestly, that still sounds to me like the behavior you'd expect with a subwoofer's auto-on feature, though I know your sub isn't supposed to have it. I'm not even sure how that would possibly be a 705 problem, because the logic doesn't fit. I would lean toward it being a problem with the subwoofer's amp.

One way you might cheat and rule out the 705 as the cause would be to hook the sub up to the left channel pre-out instead of the subwoofer out... then disconnect your left speaker, set mains to large, wait 5-10 minutes for the sub to not have any audio for a bit, then crank up the left test tone and see if the sub reacts immediately or takes a few seconds to kick on. It won't produce a bass test tone, but it should have enough output to tell you whether the sub instantly gets a signal. If it does, then perhaps the 705's subwoofer out is screwy. If it behaves in the same way and doesn't kick on immediately, your sub's amp may be the problem.

I'm just spitballing here. Hope it helps.

Would plugging an ipod directly into the sub accomplish the same thing? I used an ipod to stereo (L/R RCA jacks) cable to plug the ipod directly into the subwoofer, and it always plays immediately. The reason I'm asking is because I already have the 705 in the car and I'm planning to exchange it tonight (tomorrow is the last possible day, and the place is not nearby). I really respect your opinion on this, and I haven't ruled out the possibility that it may be the sub. Ultimately, though, I have three more weeks to return the sub, and one more day to exchange the receiver, so I feel like I have to get a new receiver and rule that out for sure. [Crossing my fingers that there is nothing else wrong with the new one, because, other than this issue, mine has been perfect.]

turbe

10-31-07, 11:29 AM

damnesiac

10-31-07, 12:00 PM

I purchased it for $585 from CC, where can it be purchased for less?
You've got me beat. Got mine from CC for $649 (they matched their online price, at the store it was still tagged for $799) then I saw that Amazon had it for $609 before my 30 days was up. I wen't back with my receipt and the manager told me they don't normally match Amazon prices but he would make an exception so I ended up paying $609.

RICKPTAK

10-31-07, 12:14 PM

I have the hum through the sub and all my speakers. very noticable whenever I pause something (ie. live tv; an Hd DVD; or the PS3). It's also noticable whenever nothing's happening (eg. I have ejected a disk from the HD Dvd player and so it's now idle; the hum will again be loud). The 705 works well for me - it's the right size for my cabinet and the power consumption is half what it is on the 805. BUT, I really want to know if this problem exists on all the 705's or just some. Thanks!

RN
It seems that it is only on some. I have not seen any posts from anyone exchanging a 705 with hum with another 705 to see if the problem goes away. I have seen three posts (including myself) from people with hum problems that returned their 705's. Two have gone with the 805 and the third was thinking of going with a Denon (no report back) There was also a report a while back of an e-mail response from Onkyo kind of admitting to some type of problem and to return the unit for repair, you may want to search for that. Maybe you can be the first to see if switching to another 705 fixes the problem.

sevenftr

10-31-07, 12:33 PM

afrotropic

10-31-07, 01:26 PM

The HDMI inputted Cable Box & DVD/VCR video signals switched by the '705 turns off for a second or two every now and then. The TV displays a black screen. Any ideas?

TiVoHD

10-31-07, 01:26 PM

I really want to know if this problem exists on all the 705's or just some. Thanks!

RN

I don't have any hum at all with my 705. I'm setup for 5.1 with Sonance Moderno in-wall speakers and a JBL 100w sub. With the input paused, I can crank the volume and hear silence.

dropzone7

10-31-07, 01:42 PM

I don't have any hum at all with my 705. I'm setup for 5.1 with Sonance Moderno in-wall speakers and a JBL 100w sub. With the input paused, I can crank the volume and hear silence.

Same here. Running 5.1 with plans for 7.1, Ascend Acoustics all around. All sources connected via HDMI. Sub is Dayton 12" and the only sounds coming from it are good LFE frequencies. No hum on anything thus far.

raudi

10-31-07, 02:03 PM

So is the upconversion on this unit better than the one on the 605? I was thinking of returning my 605 and upgrading.

Heuristix

10-31-07, 02:59 PM

My Oppo 981HD is fairly new, and I was pleasantly surprised to see HDCD flash on the screen when I started to play an old Mark Knopfler CD. However, the Oppo manual states that HDCD decoding needs to happen in the receiver if analogue outs are not used. Unfortunately, I don't see any mention of HDCD decoding in any of the new Onkyo receivers. Any comments?

gfrfan

10-31-07, 03:38 PM

Hi All, I just set up my 705 yesterday - it's to a Sharp 3000 projector via HDMI, and right now I have two inputs - a DISH 722 DVR and a Panny DVD - both HDMI. The Dish 722 works great, however the video from the Panny is washed out - kind of grey with reds showing up as purple. It's not the HDMI cable as I've swapped them between the Dish and Panny and the problem still exists. The Panny works just fine when direct connected to the Sharp. Any thoughts on what might be happening?

Thanks

JALez

10-31-07, 03:48 PM

TiVoHD

10-31-07, 03:56 PM

So is the upconversion on this unit better than the one on the 605? I was thinking of returning my 605 and upgrading.

I never really understood the point of upconversion. Doesn't your TV just scale the input to its panel resolution? What do you gain by upconverting the signal before it hits the TV?

dropzone7

10-31-07, 04:10 PM

Hello:

I am sorry but I am a newbe, I just set up my 705 and I notice that I have to crank up the volume to like 50 to be able to start listening to sound, :( why is this happening? Shouldn't I start listening just by going up from 0 and up?

Help appreciated, thanks.

Take a look at this link. Jeremy does a good job of explaining these types of things and I think this post touches on your concerns. Basically, don't pay so much attention to the volume numbers. After calibration they may even be different depending on what Audyssey sets the trims at. Most of us here listen in the -10 to -18 range for home theater use from what I have read. That's the sweet spot on mine anyhow.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showpost.php?p=11934572&postcount=2415

Uptown193

10-31-07, 05:32 PM

Hello:

I am sorry but I am a newbe, I just set up my 705 and I notice that I have to crank up the volume to like 50 to be able to start listening to sound, :( why is this happening? Shouldn't I start listening just by going up from 0 and up?

Help appreciated, thanks.

im not at home right now but there is a button u can press, its on the right side botton of the receiver and its the first button to the right where u would but the jack in for Audessey. You see it?

Jeremy Anderson

10-31-07, 05:42 PM

Take a look at this link. Jeremy does a good job of explaining these types of things and I think this post touches on your concerns. Basically, don't pay so much attention to the volume numbers. After calibration they may even be different depending on what Audyssey sets the trims at. Most of us here listen in the -10 to -18 range for home theater use from what I have read. That's the sweet spot on mine anyhow.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showpost.php?p=11934572&postcount=2415

Yeah, I normally do a fair job... except when I'm tired, which I clearly was at the end of that post. For instance, I said "absolute" instead of relative (because the -10dB style scale is relative to reference). I said "algorithm" instead of "logarithm" (because the absolute volume control is logarithmic). Basically, I had several brain farts there. BRAAAAP!

But the basic point was that the volume control isn't linear with the absolute scale. You won't start getting useable volume until up into the 50s. For me, normal TV watching is usually around 56, movies around 64-68, and Xbox 360 multiplayer around 48-50 (so I don't bleed sound into my headset for others to hear) with 52-56 for single player.

fubdap

10-31-07, 10:00 PM

Here is a deal from 6ave for the 705. Use the web coupon. I do not know how long this deal will be.

RobertR1

10-31-07, 10:16 PM

Here is a deal from 6ave for the 705. Use the web coupon. I do not know how long this deal will be.

That's a hell of a deal! Now it becomes even more difficult trying to justify a 805 :(

smgord

10-31-07, 11:36 PM

For anyone doubting Jeremy's ability to diagnose issues remotely, he was spot-on in my case, it appears. If anyone has been following my subwoofer saga, here's your update: I swapped out the Onkyo, and the problem remains exactly the same. If the subwoofer hasn't been put through its paces in the last 10-15 minutes or so, it shuts down until a ton of bass is pushed through it. Running a test tone works, but there is a 4-5 second delay until it works. I'm calling Aperion tomorrow to swap out the sub -- I suppose it could just be a bad marriage between the sub and the Onkyo, but I want to try another sub before I make that assessment.

On the bright side, the new 705 doesn't appear to be defective in any way, and even has updated firmware, for whatever that is worth. The first five codes are the same as they were (which matched the latest I saw upthread) and the last code is now VD: 3.62/07717A.

woots

11-01-07, 02:16 AM

strangephoenix

11-01-07, 05:42 AM

Sorry to crash your party; Newbie on the scene...

I've searched for an answer but haven't found one, so maybe one of you true technophiles can help me along.

I have an HDMI cable going from my Samsung LCD (HDMI In) to my Onkyo TX-SR705 (HDMI Out). There is also a DVD player and a PS3 connected to the receiver's HDMI In's. No cable/satellite box. The problem is I don't get any sound from the speakers connected to the receiver when i try to watch TV. It seems like there would be an HDMI Out on the TV so that I could get sound out of it thru the receiver; but there are just two HDMI In's on the TV. And the TV's internal sound is turned off. What am I missing? The PS3 and TV share the receiver's GAME/TV input selector and I have to manually change the digital input setting to Optical 1 just to hear the TV once the PS3 is turned off. This seems like too much of a hassle, so I'm pretty sure I haven't done something properly. Can somebody please help me out? Thanx.

Joe Pick

11-01-07, 08:27 AM

It seems that it is only on some. I have not seen any posts from anyone exchanging a 705 with hum with another 705 to see if the problem goes away. I have seen three posts (including myself) from people with hum problems that returned their 705's. Two have gone with the 805 and the third was thinking of going with a Denon (no report back) There was also a report a while back of an e-mail response from Onkyo kind of admitting to some type of problem and to return the unit for repair, you may want to search for that. Maybe you can be the first to see if switching to another 705 fixes the problem.

I did in fact return my 705 and exchanged it for another one. My problem was a noticeable hum. I unplugged everything from the 705 and the hum returned when I plugged in HDMI cables, and the power to those components wasn't even plugged in! On the new 705, I plugged in the 705 and connected only the sub and turned it on, and it was quiet. When I added HDMI cables (to re-create my problem), it was still quiet. I was thrilled! I connected everything else and tried several sources again, and it was still quiet. I noticed the problem on the old 705 during quiet scenes on DVD, so I popped in my test disc, where I heard the hum, and I did not with the new 705.

I pushed everything back up against the wall and ran the Audyssey set up. When it was finished, I ran the "quiet scene demo" and the hum - diminished compared to the older 705 - had returned! It wasn't as noticeable, but there. I went to the 705's set up, and switched the Equalizer from "Audyssey" to "Off" and the hum disappeared. Anyone else tried turning the EQ off to fix the hum? Why would it be related to the Audyssey EQ? I'd like to use the Audyssey for listening, but would rather have it off than put up with a distracting hum. Please let me know if you'd tried this, or if it can be explained.

bulldozer3

11-01-07, 10:04 AM

got lost in the shuffle... :)

I've got my xbox 360 hooked up to the 705 via component with an optical cable for audio. Passed to the TV via the HDMI out. From what I read on this thread, it sounded like if you do this, it downconverts the resolution. Whats the deal on this, and should I just use component out on the 705 to the tv for the 360? or for that matter just plug it straight into the tv? I'm outputing 720p from the 360 since my tv is 720p (got the upgrade bug for a sony 60a3000 though :D ). thanks for the help and all the info I've gotten from here.

regantr6

11-01-07, 10:05 AM

OK... I have the analog (I know, I'm sorry) video output from the cable box going to the 705 cab/sat. then HDMI out to LCD. Monitor is set to yes on output. The very first day the cable signal went thru the 705, upconverted the anaolog to 780p... since that day, nothing but solid blue screen!?! the audio from the cable box is still coming thru, but suddenly, no video signal.
any ideas why it would work for one day, then just the blue screen??? thanks.

woots

11-01-07, 10:22 AM

Thought I'd share this... the HD DVD Toshiba A2 player is gonna be $98.87 at Walmart...for Friday (tomorrow) only.

http://www.engadget.com/2007/11/01/toshiba-hd-a2-hd-dvd-player-100-this-friday-wal-mart/

I cant tell if this is a desperate move or a brilliant move. Even if this isn't their top of the line player 100 bucks for a next gen format disc player is definitely an all new low price point.

I thought I'd share this if anyone is in the market and looking to save some money. This deal is for TOMORROW instore only.

dropzone7

11-01-07, 10:30 AM

McGrew

11-01-07, 10:45 AM

price3

11-01-07, 10:49 AM

Other than cleaning up the mass of cables in your system, I can tell NO difference between HDMI and component.

dropzone7

11-01-07, 10:52 AM

I've posted this question here because I'm debating between the Onkyo TX-SR705 and the TX-SR605. I will have three inputs that can use HDMI and I'm wondering if there is a major (noticeable) difference between and HDMI input and a component input. I did a quick test on my current HDTV (only 1080i) between HDMI and component using my SA 8300 HD-DVR and couldn't see a difference. For my new setup I will have a 1080p monitor (panasonic or pioneer) and my receiver will be either the SR705 (three HDMI inputs) or SR605 (two HDMI inputs). Any thoughts are appreciated.

Most newer sources such as HD DVD and Blu Ray players "should" look better through HDMI. However, I have that same SA8300 HD-DVR box and I can tell you that most users of that unit prefer the component output to the HDMI. That cable box crushes black through HDMI. Some aspects of the picture look equally good or better but if black crush is a concern for you then you might want to run component from that box. Personally, I am running everything, including the SA8300 with HDMI for simplicity in my cable runs.

McGrew

11-01-07, 10:59 AM

dropzone7

11-01-07, 11:05 AM

But with either the 605 or the 705 I can output (and upconvert) everything through the HDMI to the tv monitor, so I could input the 8300 to the receiver via component (plus two HDMI inputs) and then output everything through the HDMI to the tv monitor, correct?

Yes, I believe that's correct. However, I think the upconverting is only to 720p with either the 605 or 705. I have not tried runnning component into the 705 with upscaling to 720p to see if it makes a difference in the SA8300's black crush problem. I am running 1080i from all of my sources through HDMI. If you plan on getting a 1080p display then I would think you would want to run everything through 1080p passthrough with the 705 out to your 1080p display. Of course with the cable box you are going to have to feed either 720p or 1080i so I'm not sure what would be the better choice there.

RICKPTAK

11-01-07, 01:22 PM

I did in fact return my 705 and exchanged it for another one. My problem was a noticeable hum. I unplugged everything from the 705 and the hum returned when I plugged in HDMI cables, and the power to those components wasn't even plugged in! On the new 705, I plugged in the 705 and connected only the sub and turned it on, and it was quiet. When I added HDMI cables (to re-create my problem), it was still quiet. I was thrilled! I connected everything else and tried several sources again, and it was still quiet. I noticed the problem on the old 705 during quiet scenes on DVD, so I popped in my test disc, where I heard the hum, and I did not with the new 705.

I pushed everything back up against the wall and ran the Audyssey set up. When it was finished, I ran the "quiet scene demo" and the hum - diminished compared to the older 705 - had returned! It wasn't as noticeable, but there. I went to the 705's set up, and switched the Equalizer from "Audyssey" to "Off" and the hum disappeared. Anyone else tried turning the EQ off to fix the hum? Why would it be related to the Audyssey EQ? I'd like to use the Audyssey for listening, but would rather have it off than put up with a distracting hum. Please let me know if you'd tried this, or if it can be explained.
It may have something to do with where the default settings are for the equalizer. When you switch Audyssey off the manual equalizer takes over and you need to manually adjust the settings. Depending on what frequency the hum is, it is possible that the default equalizer settings may be filtering it out to some degree. In my case I was able to reduce the amount of hum by adjusting the crosssover at the sub to something just above the crossover setting in the receiver. This doesn't mean that the hum was gone, it just means that the hum is coming from the receiver at a frequency above what the crossover is set at the sub. In my opinion there is something definitely wrong with the DSP implementation in the 705. All I know for sure is that in my case the original receiver (Pioneer VSX-816) did not have hum, I replaced it with the 705 and had hum, I then replaced the 705 with the 805 and the hum went away NO OTHER CHANGES. This to me shows a problem with the 705. I don't know if you can afford an 805 but if you can I would go for it.

HobbyTalk

11-01-07, 01:35 PM

Maybe someone can lend a hand is helping me with my setup.

SR705 HDMI > Panasonic PX75U
Dish VIP822 HDMI > SR705
DVD-R HDMI > SR705
Xbox 360 HDMI > SR705

I currently have a STB, DVD-R and Xbox 360 plugged into the SR705 via HDMI. All are being output to the TV via a single HDMI.

I now want to setup a Wii via the component/L&R audio cables thru the 705. Output to the TV via HDMI or component would work out fine but I have yet to figure out how to do it.

Could someone point me in the right direction? TIA!

Uptown193

11-01-07, 02:23 PM

Just when I thought I was done spending money on my home theater I had to discover these kinda websites. :(

http://www.stargatecinema.com/

http://www.cinemashop.com/index.htm

damned AVS forums have brain washed me.. must... build... a... real... home ... theater.... someone stop me!!!!!

Woots, omg i think me and you think alike. Im dying to get some theater seats and now looking at those links and seeing how cheap some of them are I now know what I will be purchasing with my Xmas bonus and it could not come at a better time since my leather sofa I have now is ripped from punching it everytime i get shot up playing a game like Call of Duty multiplayer or Rainbow 6. (Gamertag - ManAmal1)

damnesiac

11-01-07, 05:14 PM

It may have something to do with where the default settings are for the equalizer. When you switch Audyssey off the manual equalizer takes over and you need to manually adjust the settings. Depending on what frequency the hum is, it is possible that the default equalizer settings may be filtering it out to some degree. In my case I was able to reduce the amount of hum by adjusting the crosssover at the sub to something just above the crossover setting in the receiver. This doesn't mean that the hum was gone, it just means that the hum is coming from the receiver at a frequency above what the crossover is set at the sub. In my opinion there is something definitely wrong with the DSP implementation in the 705. All I know for sure is that in my case the original receiver (Pioneer VSX-816) did not have hum, I replaced it with the 705 and had hum, I then replaced the 705 with the 805 and the hum went away NO OTHER CHANGES. This to me shows a problem with the 705. I don't know if you can afford an 805 but if you can I would go for it.

I created a little hum "how to test" thread on this earlier today. Trying to get some feedback from as many Onkyo/Integra owners as possible.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=931586

Also, since then I FINALLY got through to Onkyo's customer service (after a 50min+ phone wait) and the tech seemed very interesed but seemed suprised and said that nobody has "officially" reported this as being a problem. He put me on hold then confirmed with his manager that the hum issue has not yet been logged by tech support as a complaint by anybody!? Has anyone else ever called Onkyo on this?

He suggested that I must have gotten a faulty unit and that I return mine and call him back with the results.

I've been thinking about just upgrading to the 805 or the Integra 6.8. Has anyone heard anything about hum from the Integra? I've got until Nov. 13th on my CC return...

RICKPTAK

11-01-07, 05:59 PM

I created a little hum "how to test" thread on this earlier today. Trying to get some feedback from as many Onkyo/Integra owners as possible.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=931586

Also, since then I FINALLY got through to Onkyo's customer service (after a 50min+ phone wait) and the tech seemed very interesed but seemed suprised and said that nobody has "officially" reported this as being a problem. He put me on hold then confirmed with his manager that the hum issue has not yet been logged by tech support as a complaint by anybody!? Has anyone else ever called Onkyo on this?

He suggested that I must have gotten a faulty unit and that I return mine and call him back with the results.

I've been thinking about just upgrading to the 805 or the Integra 6.8. Has anyone heard anything about hum from the Integra? I've got until Nov. 13th on my CC return...
I guess Onkyo doesn't count e-mail complaints. If I remember correctly (search back in this thread) a person I believe Transcend?? filed am e-mail complaint and received an e-mail response back almost exactly as what was told to you on the phone.

damnesiac

11-01-07, 06:11 PM

I guess Onkyo doesn't count e-mail complaints. If I remember correctly (search back in this thread) a person I believe Transcend?? filed am e-mail complaint and received an e-mail response back almost exactly as what was told to you on the phone.

I went the e-mail route too. The only thing I got back was...

Please don't reply to this e-mail, this is an auto reply and any e-mail that is sent to this address will not be read.

Thank you for contacting Onkyo Product Support. The following is a collection of information that may help answer your question. A Product Support Representative will be contacting you shortly to address your inquiry.

If you need assistance with System setup, please visit our Hookup Diagrams page found here: http://www.onkyousa.com/hookup

Our Frequently Asked Questions section has answers to many of the top issues for your product: http://www.onkyousa.com/faq.cfm

Again, thank you for contacting us; if you need further assistance please call our Product Support Department at the following number, 1-800-229-1687.

The Onkyo Product Support Department

ryany84

11-01-07, 07:22 PM

If someone has a HD-XA2 hooked up to their receiver can you tell me what sound formats they can receive? I'm looking to get this receiver.

csrini1

11-01-07, 07:42 PM

Wow really, thats very good, you got the same one i just ordered? Also how quiet/loud is it?

And like woots asked how much space to you have above it and how long were u running it when it read 90?

Mine reads 123/125 after 5 hours running time.

I got 2 fans one for the plasma tv and one for receiver, they look so tiny, when i put them on the receiver. and they are not that silent that i was expecting. Agreed that i dont hear the sound, when i am watching a movie or regular tv.
Price i thought is ridiculous, almost 30 bucks for this fan. The 5 dollar fan from target even though it looked big and more sound from it, did a better job.
may be its time for monoprice to sell some of these for 5-10 bucks. similar to hdmi cables compared to monster hdmi cables.... m-o-n-o-p-r-i-c-e are you reading this??

bcstanding

11-01-07, 08:16 PM

Here is a deal from 6ave for the 705. Use the web coupon. I do not know how long this deal will be.

Thanks a TON for that coupon code! If I can get a Tosh A2 tomorrow, I'm going to need a new receiver and this looks like the best deal on a newer Onkyo. I'll post if the code works (if I end up ordering the receiver).

Pseudotrue

11-01-07, 08:31 PM

that code should work, if it doesn't, AFL6 does the exact same thing and I just ordered mine yesterday.

fubdap

11-01-07, 09:08 PM

Thanks a TON for that coupon code! If I can get a Tosh A2 tomorrow, I'm going to need a new receiver and this looks like the best deal on a newer Onkyo. I'll post if the code works (if I end up ordering the receiver).

You are welocme. This will push those on the edge.

kzx87

11-01-07, 09:16 PM

well it pushed me over, but I live in NY with that damn sales tax bs =\

jazzyfromco

11-01-07, 09:27 PM

ordered one as well - fivesixtysix shipped. Now is just have to box up my recently purchased 705 from circuit city for return...

RobertR1

11-01-07, 10:19 PM

Ordered. Can't beat that. My Fry's unit is going back.

devilchicken

11-01-07, 10:22 PM

I guess Onkyo doesn't count e-mail complaints. If I remember correctly (search back in this thread) a person I believe Transcend?? filed am e-mail complaint and received an e-mail response back almost exactly as what was told to you on the phone.

Apparently they don't log phone calls either. You'd think that after thanking me for being on hold ad nauseam for 25 minutes, telling them about the hum and then being told to return it, that they'd have some sort of, oh i dunno, bug tracking system. *sigh*

RobertR1

11-02-07, 01:56 AM

Got the infamous digital sound meter from Radio Shack. Set the weighting to C and reponse to slow. Was aiming for 75db from primary listening position from all speakers (inc. sub). The audessy was about 4-6db low all the way around. For those wondering GET ONE!!! it's nice to have a proper reading.

Got quite an issue though. Buzzing and humming. Humming from the sub and buzzing from the speakers. During the level calibration, setting it to the sub, the rest of the speakers buzz a fair bit. Certainly to the point of annoyance.

Once on an actual input the buzz and hum increase as the volume starts going above -10. This is not cool at all. Luckily this is a unit from a local shop.

However, I've ordered one for a great price from 6ave.com and even though they're authorized, it'd be quite a pain to go through RMA's. Is this simply poor QC on Onkyo's part?

There is also a lip sync issue on HDMI. Watch Transformers HD DVD, scene 2 when they're talking in the helicopter, it's easy to spot. I turned the A/V sync from 20ms to 0 and it's still there. The lips move before the sound comes out.

woots

11-02-07, 06:30 AM

I got 2 fans one for the plasma tv and one for receiver, they look so tiny, when i put them on the receiver. and they are not that silent that i was expecting. Agreed that i dont hear the sound, when i am watching a movie or regular tv.
Price i thought is ridiculous, almost 30 bucks for this fan. The 5 dollar fan from target even though it looked big and more sound from it, did a better job.
may be its time for monoprice to sell some of these for 5-10 bucks. similar to hdmi cables compared to monster hdmi cables.... m-o-n-o-p-r-i-c-e are you reading this??

You can buy a DC computer fan off newegg.com for around 10 bucks.. and go to radio shack and buy an AC/DC adapter for 5 bucks. Then splice it together yourself and save 10-15 bucks or so in the end vs buying pre jury rigged for you at that website.

The one I bought off that website was a 120mm Vantec Ultra Quiet.. I knew the Vantec brand from the PC world (i build and overclock computer a lot).. they have some of the highest CFM (cubic feet per minute) fans in the business.. so it caught my eye as being among the best flavors to chose from. I spent like 27 bucks. Paid to much and once I got it and saw the website owner hand splices them himself I felt like an idiot for buying it when I could have done it myself. However, 15 bucks extra isn't that big of a deal to save a few minutes of work.

With that 120mm Vantec fan and only 2.5 inches of clearance I can keep my receiver around 98-100 degrees F over a several hour period over 70% volume even with all channel stereo turned on (which makes the loud the heaviest).

---

Here is an example of how you can do it yourself for less. This is the fan I bought off that website.
http://www.buyextras.com/vastulqu12dc.html

Here is that same fan most likely for 11.99 here at newegg.com (specs are the same 53 CFM and 28 db)
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811999614

Here is the EXACT same adapater that came with my fam, the Coby Deluxe Universal AC/DC adapter (model: CA-969) only 4.99 at this website.
http://www.jr.com/JRProductPage.process?Product_Id=3991818&JRSource=GAW.datafeed.CBY+CA969

Strip the wires... white cable on the Coby matches with the Red cable on fan.. and black goes to black.. lil electrical tape and viola.. all done.

grand total for do it yourselfer = 16.98
grand total for letting someone else do it = 27.95

saving 10 bucks ... or let them do it for 10... its not really a rip off... its closer to a fair deal then you might think.

mm60

11-02-07, 08:42 AM

Yeah, same problem for me but for a different reason:

When I'm on a different HDMI input, the HDMI input for my HTPC completely shuts off and Windows XP thinks the monitor (projector) doesn't exist at all (I have a dual monitor setup in the back of my media room.

So I have to go into display properties and re-add the second monitor (projector).

However, if a film is already playing on the HTPC (i.e. active movement on the screen), the 705 doesn't shut off the HDMI port. Weird.

Anyone have any insight on this?

I am experiencing similar issues. I am running a Vista Media Center with a 7600GS video card, 163.69 drivers and a Hitachi 1081i RPTV. I was connected via component cables and decided to try DVI->HDMI to skip the extra video conversions over component (the MCE outputs 1080i which is down-converted to 720p by the receiver and then back to 1080i by the TV). After the switch to DVI the picture appears to be a bit sharper. There are 2 problems though. The first is that the receiver has to be turned on before the PC. If not, the PC does not see the receiver and resets the system to indicate a single monitor. I then have to go in and add the TV as the second monitor via the driver control panel. This is too complicated for the family to do and I have not figured out a fix so far. It all works well if the receiver is turned on before the PC. The second problem is that the picture sometimes goes all green or gets messed up (while the video is playing). I then have to switch inputs on the receiver to get the picture back up. Not sure if this is a problem with the DVI output or the receiver processing. Am tired of this and planning on switching back to component. If anyone has similar experience would appreciate hearing your tale.

Emissary52

11-02-07, 09:11 AM

price3

11-02-07, 09:20 AM

Unless it is the newly released version, don't judge what HD DVD's look like based on full metal jacket. Good movie, not great picture quality.

Emissary52

11-02-07, 09:38 AM

Unless it is the newly released version, don't judge what HD DVD's look like based on full metal jacket. Good movie, not great picture quality.

price3 -This version of the movie claims to be newly remastered and had dolby True-HD. Is this the new version? BTW the price was $18.96. Is that the standard going rate for old films?

Saul

11-02-07, 11:40 AM

I have to ask again guys, from where and how (online or what?) are fellow Canadians buying the 705 from?!

woots

11-02-07, 11:50 AM

what other movie besides transformers is hd dvd only? I know paramount went traitor to blu ray.... but whats on the slate for their movies for the next year?

I am tempted to swing out and buy this cheapy tosh a2 unit today but if all i will ever get is transformers its a waste.

Uptown193

11-02-07, 12:17 PM

The real question is are there any pornos available in HD DVD or BD???? :eek::eek::eek::D:D:p:p:p;);)

woots

11-02-07, 12:19 PM

The real question is are there any pornos available in HD DVD or BD???? :eek::eek::eek::D:D:p:p:p;);)

Lol.. they got them for both. No, I still never bought one... 50 bucks per disc is a tad high priced for no reason.

I remember early on this whole war was supposed to be finished early cause Sony didn't want that sort of thing in their format and people predicted hd dvd would win. After the public outcry blu ray slowly started to produce them.

I think it turned out Sony never denied them outright, but since sony has a far reaching hand with video production companies some of the video production companies didn't want to be associated with producing pornographic discs for Sony.. so they drew a line in the sand and Sony got paranoid.. so thats how that all came about. I don't know what they did to rectify the situation but they did.

Boogie7910

11-02-07, 12:33 PM

Well, I just got back from Walmart with a Toshiba A2 for $98. I haven't gotten up early for a sale in ages - in fact, the last time I did something like this, was when Windows 95 came out. I was one of those people standing in line at midnight. I've been debating what BD to buy and was leaning towards a Samsung 1400 but this deal was not to be missed. I could kick myself for buying a Philips 5982 SD-DVD HDMI for $69 a month ago. I guess I'll be joining the "Format Neutral" camp for a while. It may not have the greatest specs but for $98 who cares! They had a few HD titles on sale so I picked up "Full Metal Jacket" as my first HD movie. It was time for a new toy anyway. Time to read the manual!

You can send in a rebate form to get 5 free movies with your player. One of the movies on the list is Full Metal Jacket. It's PQ is not highly regarded here, they've done a really sloppy job with the transfer, so don't think this is by any means how HD DVD looks.

link to rebate form: http://g-ecx.images-amazon.com/images/G/01/00/00/00/71/79/28/71792861._V25941811_.pdf

here's another with 3 different movies: http://download.sears.com/misc/5Free_end022808.pdf

bcstanding

11-02-07, 12:34 PM

That coupon code for 6ave worked last night, but it isn't working for me this morning! The code 'AFL6' is working though.

woots

11-02-07, 12:46 PM

nugga22

11-02-07, 01:32 PM

If someone has a HD-XA2 hooked up to their receiver can you tell me what sound formats they can receive? I'm looking to get this receiver.

Sorry no one has responded to your question. I have the XA2, but only receive PCM. That is until the firmware (supposed to be released in mid. Nov.) which will allow bitstreaming. At that time, this receiver should decode everything we can throw at it.

colomb

11-02-07, 02:19 PM

Its looking more and more likely that this is the receiver I'm going to go with over the Denon 2308.

How does the receiver handle component in to component out. Is it straight passtrhough? Is there any processing done on the signal? I'm going to have both the HDMI and Component outputs hooked up to the TV and want the receiver to use the HDMI output when the source is an HDMI input and similarly for the component inputs. Should I prepare myself for any issues? Thank you

price3

11-02-07, 02:26 PM

price3 -This version of the movie claims to be newly remastered and had dolby True-HD. Is this the new version? BTW the price was $18.96. Is that the standard going rate for old films?

If the cover just has the helmet on the front it is the old one, the new one has a different picture, I can't make out what it is from screenshots. I think the old one didn't have Tru HD either.

Joe Pick

11-02-07, 03:41 PM

Uptown193

11-02-07, 04:30 PM

rvarneyy

11-02-07, 04:58 PM

woots

11-02-07, 05:47 PM

I been looking into to buying a new stand setup for my LCD.. and I have had my eye on this lil beauty for quite some time.
http://www.audio-video-furniture.com/BDI-Alcove-8200-Alcove-Series-Cabinet-Cherry.htm

Anyone know where I can find BDI furniture at the cheapest price? Lowest I have found this was for 2,800.

woots

11-02-07, 05:59 PM

I have a decision to make on whether to return my 705 for an 875. I plan to use Vienna Acoustics Bach Grand mains, Maestro Center, Waltz rears and a Rel2 sub. My monitor is a Sony Bravia 52" LCD and my two viewing sources consist of an Xbox 360 Elite (HDMI output & 1080p upscaling of old DVD's) and an HDTV cable box (HDMI).

The power of the 705 is 100w per where the 875 delivers 140w per. However after reading about the increased size and heat issues of the 875, I'm thinking about staying put with the 705.

With my room size being 16'x18', do you think it's worth the extra grand for what seems to be only a 40w per channel upgrade? Also since my Xbox already has upscaling capability, I'm wondering if it's even worth getting the 875 for it's upscaling capability. The other factor is upscaling a compressed TV signal from my cable box which the 705 can't but the 875 can (at least I think it can). Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Why the 875 and not the 905?

Also, if upscalling is very important to you ya buy the higher up models. I don't have your speakers specs on hand.. but if they are higher then what the 705 is capable.. then yes more watts is better. You dont have to crank the volume up as high to get a normal listening level which means less sound artifacts. Also the higher up models are built with better internal components and if you spent a lot of cash on your speakers you may as well spend a lot on your receiver. Heating is an issue on bigger models, but if you buy an after market fan and make sure you give proper space around your receiver.. it wont be an issue.

Yes the price difference for a few more watts and upscaling doesn't justify the step up on its own. However, you do get a lot of quality innards for that price and you get more hdmi input flexibility for when you buy blu ray player and or ps3 and or an aftermarket hd dvd player and some kind of appletv or web device.. lots of room to add on. Not sure what kind of advice you are searching for you need to just sit down and weight the pros and cons along with your desire for an upgrade (which it sounds like you already know) and make the decision.

When you buy top end (anything), it rarely can be justified in the price tag, especially when compared to the overall features you get at the 1st affordable step down. It more boils down to your willingness to spend the cash and the amount of desire you have to obtain that object. If you want to be as objective as possible research the internal component upgrades you get in the models you want vs the 705. Certainly there will be more justification for upgrading when comparing internal hardware specs vs comparing simple functionality specs.

woots

11-02-07, 06:10 PM

I returned my first 705, and the second one also hummed, just like the first, especially after running the Audyssey calibration. Turning the EQ setting off helped, but the hum was still there. I returned the second 705 to Circuit City, and upgraded to the 805, which is dead silent. No hums!

I am personally baffled why some people get this hum and others don't. Especially when some people say they got direct proof from Onkyo that its a known problem. It makes me never want to update or change my firmware at all on the off chance I may mess my receiver up and get the hum myself.

Ryan T.

11-02-07, 06:37 PM

I'm having a little problem with my 8300HD DVR and Onkyo SR705. Occasionally it appears as if I have a handshake issue, where briefly my set will cut out and then come back as if it is 'resynched'. I have a Panasonic 60U plasma.

This problem hasn't occurred watching Blu Ray's yet.

gadgetscom

11-02-07, 06:38 PM

I've been reading the posts here on the 705 for several weeks now and there seems to be several "bugs" with the receiver that needs to be worked out (can't remember what the exact bugs were but seems like problems with HDMI linking, etc.). I currently have an onkyo receiver that I bought 5 years ago so I only get DTS with my current A2. While I would really like to get a new receiver that will give me Dolby HD, etc. because I read that you will get so much of a difference, but it kind of seems like I should hold off until the next generation of receivers comes out. Any opinions?

Joe Pick

11-02-07, 06:48 PM

So other then the hum, is there any difference in sound quality?

I think there is. The 805 sounds a bit more defined and "full" to me. Of course, I'm listening to the calibrated Audyssey setting in the EQ, whereas I had it off on the 705 to try to defeat the hum. I like how volume and levels can be adjusted in half decibels as well on the 805, and I'm sure the Burr Brown DACs are helping overall. I'm definitely pleased!

Emissary52

11-02-07, 07:06 PM

You can send in a rebate form to get 5 free movies with your player. One of the movies on the list is Full Metal Jacket. It's PQ is not highly regarded here, they've done a really sloppy job with the transfer, so don't think this is by any means how HD DVD looks.

link to rebate form: http://g-ecx.images-amazon.com/images/G/01/00/00/00/71/79/28/71792861._V25941811_.pdf

here's another with 3 different movies: http://download.sears.com/misc/5Free_end022808.pdf

Boogie7910 - Thanks for the info! I think I got the new version of FMJ because it has the different cover. The freebie version must be the old one. Walmart had the old and new version in their ad and it was just by chance I picked up this edition. The old one was $14.99. It had interviews with the cast and Vince D'Onofrio looked like he had just come off of the Law and Order set. I'll take all the free discs I can get.

I did the firmware update on the A2 before I even played the first movie. I was expecting to see Dolby True HD light up on the 705 but as one of the above posters mentioned that's still in the works. I been on the Blu-Ray forums reading the pros and cons of the various players for so long, that I know only what people have mentioned on the Onkyo forums about HD-DVD players. If I have any questions about the A2, I think I'll be asking them here since many people on the 705 forum have a Toshiba and the HD-DVD and Blu-Ray forums seem to be having a slugfest since this $98 player made a brief guest appearance at Walmart today. Now if I could get a Blu-Ray player with profile 1.1 for $98. I won't care who wins the war.:)

rvarneyy

11-02-07, 08:59 PM

"Why the 875 and not the 905?

Also, if upscalling is very important to you ya buy the higher up models. I don't have your speakers specs on hand.. but if they are higher then what the 705 is capable.. then yes more watts is better. You dont have to crank the volume up as high to get a normal listening level which means less sound artifacts. Also the higher up models are built with better internal components and if you spent a lot of cash on your speakers you may as well spend a lot on your receiver. Heating is an issue on bigger models, but if you buy an after market fan and make sure you give proper space around your receiver.. it wont be an issue.

Yes the price difference for a few more watts and upscaling doesn't justify the step up on its own. However, you do get a lot of quality innards for that price and you get more hdmi input flexibility for when you buy blu ray player and or ps3 and or an aftermarket hd dvd player and some kind of appletv or web device.. lots of room to add on. Not sure what kind of advice you are searching for you need to just sit down and weight the pros and cons along with your desire for an upgrade (which it sounds like you already know) and make the decision.

When you buy top end (anything), it rarely can be justified in the price tag, especially when compared to the overall features you get at the 1st affordable step down. It more boils down to your willingness to spend the cash and the amount of desire you have to obtain that object. If you want to be as objective as possible research the internal component upgrades you get in the models you want vs the 705. Certainly there will be more justification for upgrading when comparing internal hardware specs vs comparing simple functionality specs."

I can appreciate what you are saying here so let me provide you with links to my speaker specs:

sumikoaudio dot net (I'm not allowed to post URL's yet.) Oncer there, click on Vienna Acoustics and then click on Grand Series. You will see all the models listed that I have (Bach, Maestro & Waltz).

Curious, can non-HDTV cable channel signals be upconverted? I watch a lot of hockey on TV and a lot of the broadcasts are not in HD. Thus, I'm wondering if the 875 can up convert these signals via the HDMI output of the cable box into the A/V.

As for the 905, I don't even see that model on Onkyo's web site. Is it like ultra brand new?

woots

11-03-07, 07:22 AM

scarecrow420

11-03-07, 07:40 AM

dont forget about the 805 model too. It has the same video processing as the 705 (ie does not upscale to 1080P only 720P, has 3 HDMI inputs etc), but has the "better" audio side of things - burrbrown DACs, more wattage per channel, higher amperage, better THX certification, volume increments in .5db and so on. This thing is physically larger than the 705 and way way heavier (also runs hotter)... it also has the nice front with the door to hide all the buttons etc

Then you have the 875 which has the same audio side of things as the 805, but upgrades the video to 4 HDMI inputs, 1080P upscaling with the REON chip etc. And then finally the 905 flagship model which has further upgrades over the 875 such as 2 HDMI outs, network connectivity, zone 3 funcionality and so on

If you dont much care for upscaling, then the tossup would be between the 705 and the 805. As woots mentioned, if your speakers like alot of power, then the 805 is the "audiophile" step up from the 705... not that any of us here in the 705 thread think that our receiver doesnt sound awesome to begin with :)

Uptown193

11-03-07, 12:01 PM

I think there is. The 805 sounds a bit more defined and "full" to me. Of course, I'm listening to the calibrated Audyssey setting in the EQ, whereas I had it off on the 705 to try to defeat the hum. I like how volume and levels can be adjusted in half decibels as well on the 805, and I'm sure the Burr Brown DACs are helping overall. I'm definitely pleased!

what the hell is a Burr Brown DAC?

turbe

11-03-07, 12:22 PM

I pulled the trigger and purchased the 805 last night from 6th Ave (through Amazon).. I just noticed the price drop so the price difference was only $165 for me (free shipping as well).

My 705 will be returned to CC in a week or so.... I think the 805's Power Supply will be a better replacement for my Denon 5600.

arbitrage000

11-03-07, 12:53 PM

[I]
Curious, can non-HDTV cable channel signals be upconverted? I watch a lot of hockey on TV and a lot of the broadcasts are not in HD. Thus, I'm wondering if the 875 can up convert these signals via the HDMI output of the cable box into the A/V.

As for the 905, I don't even see that model on Onkyo's web site. Is it like ultra brand new?

Yes, the 875 and 905 can upscale regular sdtv to 1080p with the REON. Go check the 875 thread to read how good it is at this (some report improvements that really still depend on how good the source SD channel is, so crappy SD may still look pretty crappy, good digital SD will be much improved).

Secondly, the 905 is on the website, I think its the third one listed. Here is the link....http://www.us.onkyo.com/model.cfm?m=TX-NR905&class=Receiver&p=i As someone else said the 705 is the newest!

elfnmagik

11-03-07, 01:12 PM

Porbably should post this in the Displays section, but considering it's HDMI 1.3 related and I just bought the 705 I figured you guys could give good advice. I recently purchased the 705 and love it. However, I'm still using my old SD WEGA and Sony SAT T-60 Tivo.

Well, it looks like my Tivo is heading south. I got the 705 because my Sony receiver just crapped out, and I wanted to get ahead of the curve as I upgraded each component and the 705 was pretty future proof. Now, I'm about to call "D" and try to get an HR20 HD DVR. I mention all this to say that I'm going to start looking for an HD for Christmas and wanted to know if anyone knew of any sets that had 1.3 HDMI connections or how any of this plays into a display in trying to make sure I utilize all the advantages of 1.3 in the future.

woots

11-03-07, 01:27 PM

what the hell is a Burr Brown DAC?

DAC is a "digital to analog converter". Burr Brown is a company that makes all kinds of electronics, among which are DACs. Burr-Brown DAC's get praised a lot for their use in higher end receivers cause they are among the best quality DAC's available.

What makes me chuckle is not all Burr-Brown DAC's are created equal and all one has to do is say they included a Burr Brown DAC in the receiver and becomes selling point. Having said this I do not know the specs of the burr brown DAC used in the 805 vs the one used in 905 or 875. (if different at all)

narayanarao123

11-03-07, 01:44 PM

Yes, the 875 and 905 can upscale regular sdtv to 1080p with the REON. Go check the 875 thread to read how good it is at this (some report improvements that really still depend on how good the source SD channel is, so crappy SD may still look pretty crappy, good digital SD will be much improved).

Secondly, the 905 is on the website, I think its the third one listed. Here is the link....http://www.us.onkyo.com/model.cfm?m=TX-NR905&class=Receiver&p=i As someone else said the 705 is the newest!

I have my dish receiver connected via HDMI output to the HDMI in of the 705 receiver. Most of the channels I get are non HD channels and few HD. My TV can support upto 1080i resolution. I could notice that all the channels are being output (inlcuding the non HD one) to 1080i resolution. Hence, I think 705 also upconverts till 1080i via the HDMI connections. 1080P will be a passthrough via HDMI connections. If we are to use component or RCA cable as input to the receiver then 705 can ouput max to 720P and only in this perticual scenario 875 and models might do a better job. Ofcourse REON is a better chip when compared to the one used in 705's.

arbitrage000

11-03-07, 01:50 PM

I have my dish receiver connected via HDMI output to the HDMI in of the 705 receiver. Most of the channels I get are non HD channels and few HD. My TV can support upto 1080i resolution. I could notice that all the channels are being output (inlcuding the non HD one) to 1080i resolution. Hence, I think 705 also upconverts till 1080i via the HDMI connections. 1080P will be a passthrough via HDMI connections. If we are to use component or RCA cable as input to the receiver then 705 can ouput max to 720P and only in this perticual scenario 875 and models might do a better job. Ofcourse REON is a better chip when compared to the one used in 705's.

I think thats the cable box doing the 1080i outputing, I can do that on mine but I prefer my TV to scale, so my SD output is set to 480 and my HD to 1080i. The 705 can't scale to 1080i. Plug the HDMI directly to the TV from the cable box and I bet it will say the same thing.

narayanarao123

11-03-07, 01:59 PM

I think thats the cable box doing the 1080i outputing, I can do that on mine but I prefer my TV to scale, so my SD output is set to 480 and my HD to 1080i. The 705 can't scale to 1080i. Plug the HDMI directly to the TV from the cable box and I bet it will say the same thing.

arbitrage000:

You are right. I quickly did this test and you hit the nail right. Further to this I went to the onkyo webiste and found the following statement in FAQ section;

"....This is a limitation of the Faroudja DCDi chip used in the Onkyo receivers. Incoming 1080i signals via component connection can only be transmitted via HDMI in 720p. Incoming 1080i signals via an HDMI connection will be transmitted in 1080i. ..."

Since in my case I am using HDMI and feed itself is 1080i it is basically outputting the same.

Thanks for the clarification.

JoeFigueiredo

11-03-07, 05:04 PM

As most people have confirmed, DTSMA bitstreamed to the Onkyo 705, etc. sounds much better than other codecs internally decoded by the players (1400, A35, etc).

But does all the other audio formats (DD+, DolbyTrueHD, DD, DTS, etc.) sound better bitstreamed over HDMI to the Onkyo's, or internally decoded by the media players? Or is it just DTSMA (obviously, not players can decode DTSMA internally...)?

rvarneyy

11-03-07, 06:21 PM

"I didnt have a chance to google down all the specs I am sure you have that information on hand close to you so just read into it and see if they can handle 140watts or more power... if so the Onkyo 905 is for you."

My mains and center can handle 200W and my rears can handle 180W so I am certainly under-driving them with the 705. In lieu of the fact that I can also upconvert SDTV signals with the 875, it appears the 875/905 is the way to go.

Thanks to all for your input.

Kubbie

11-03-07, 06:53 PM

Pseudotrue

11-03-07, 06:57 PM

they change the codes every once in a while... so it looks like AFL6 is the way to go

fubdap

11-03-07, 10:43 PM

FUBdap - I didn't get your code to work on 6thave, but AFL6 took 6% off for a total of 566 shipped...

I am assembling my first system ever, and was set on a Sony STR-DA300ES, I can get it for about a hundred more. Their OSD is supposed to be great.

Any other compelling reasons to go Sony over Onkyo? Anything one way or the other would be great...

Kubbie:
Sorry the code did not work out for you. I wasn't sure how long the code would last. As for your other question, I have not used sony receivers before, so I would not be much of a help for you in that regard.

Uptown193

11-03-07, 11:14 PM

DAC is a "digital to analog converter". Burr Brown is a company that makes all kinds of electronics, among which are DACs. Burr-Brown DAC's get praised a lot for their use in higher end receivers cause they are among the best quality DAC's available.

Ohh ok thanks for the explanation i guess i wont need Bur Brown since in running everything digital to digital (HDMI).

Anyway i got my AVR cooler and here are some pics that i promised. As you can see my temperture went down from 125 to 107, not bad eyyy, 18 degrees after 7 hours of playin COD4MW. :D

only 1 1/2" space
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x255/uptown193/DSCI0215.jpg

http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x255/uptown193/DSCI0212-1.jpg

opp how did these get here!
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x255/uptown193/DSCI0210-1.jpg
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x255/uptown193/DSCI0221.jpg

csrini1

11-03-07, 11:51 PM

Even i bought the same cooler/fan from buyextras, and mine is also on top of receiver.

varan

11-04-07, 12:12 AM

Ohh ok thanks for the explanation i guess i wont need Bur Brown since in running everything digital to digital (HDMI). everyone needs one.. the signal to speakers are analog signal.. don't get confused with analog to digital A/D converters..

Uptown193

11-04-07, 12:24 AM

Even i bought the same cooler/fan from buyextras, and mine is also on top of receiver.

oh kool, how many degrees does yours run now and how much room do u have on top?

Uptown193

11-04-07, 12:25 AM

everyone needs one.. the signal to speakers are analog signal.. don't get confused with analog to digital A/D converters..

So are you sayin that if I ihad a DAC Burr Brown thing in my receiver i would get better sound to and from my speakers.

jonabbey

11-04-07, 01:00 AM

So are you sayin that if I ihad a DAC Burr Brown thing in my receiver i would get better sound to and from my speakers.

Maybe, maybe not. Personally, I don't know what it is about 'Burr Brown DACs' that is supposed to be so special, but people do speak very highly of them.

The DACs are what converts the signal from the digital domain to the analog domain, prior to being amplified by the pre amp / power amp sections of your receiver. DACs can differ in what kinds of frequencies they can handle, and how many levels of analog gradations they can put out.

The DACs in the 705 have 24bit output, which is the best anyone's using at this point, and is generally better than your speakers can probably audibly discriminate. The 'Burr Brown DACs' of legend are also 24bit, so presumably the difference is in their lack of noise or some such.

The 705 sounds perfectly fine to my ears, though I don't have very power hungry speakers, nor the volume to fill for which I'd need them.

Uptown193

11-04-07, 03:19 AM

Maybe, maybe not. Personally, I don't know what it is about 'Burr Brown DACs' that is supposed to be so special, but people do speak very highly of them.

The DACs are what converts the signal from the digital domain to the analog domain, prior to being amplified by the pre amp / power amp sections of your receiver. DACs can differ in what kinds of frequencies they can handle, and how many levels of analog gradations they can put out.

The DACs in the 705 have 24bit output, which is the best anyone's using at this point, and is generally better than your speakers can probably audibly discriminate. The 'Burr Brown DACs' of legend are also 24bit, so presumably the difference is in their lack of noise or some such.

The 705 sounds perfectly fine to my ears, though I don't have very power hungry speakers, nor the volume to fill for which I'd need them.

ok, i got it now and understand, thanks for the translating that in english for me. Im not really and audiophile im ore of a videophile so yea sounds great to me to.

Boogie7910

11-04-07, 04:49 AM

I returned my first 705, and the second one also hummed, just like the first, especially after running the Audyssey calibration. Turning the EQ setting off helped, but the hum was still there. I returned the second 705 to Circuit City, and upgraded to the 805, which is dead silent. No hums!

I'm glad the 805 is working for you. The 705 hum was so annoying, and when I switched to the 805 I couldn't be happier.

Boogie7910

11-04-07, 04:56 AM

Ohh ok thanks for the explanation i guess i wont need Bur Brown since in running everything digital to digital (HDMI).

Anyway i got my AVR cooler and here are some pics that i promised. As you can see my temperture went down from 125 to 107, not bad eyyy, 18 degrees after 7 hours of playin COD4MW. :D

only 1 1/2" space
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x255/uptown193/DSCI0215.jpg

http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x255/uptown193/DSCI0212-1.jpg

opp how did these get here!
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x255/uptown193/DSCI0210-1.jpg
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x255/uptown193/DSCI0221.jpg

How did you get the temp to read on the receiver and what fan is that/where can I buy it?

Jeremy Anderson

11-04-07, 10:16 AM

Anyway i got my AVR cooler and here are some pics that i promised. As you can see my temperture went down from 125 to 107, not bad eyyy, 18 degrees after 7 hours of playin COD4MW. :D

I just want to say YOU SUCK for having CoD4 early! How the hell did you get an autographed copy?

woots

11-04-07, 11:12 AM

I just want to say YOU SUCK for having CoD4 early! How the hell did you get an autographed copy?

I guess the question should be how much was that off ebay? :rolleyes:

phisch

11-04-07, 12:01 PM

So are you sayin that if I ihad a DAC Burr Brown thing in my receiver i would get better sound to and from my speakers.

FWIW, I just replaced a Yamaha RX-V1600 with the Onkyo 705 and I think the Onkyo sounds better than the Yamaha, even though the Yamaha has the Burr Brown DAC's. As a matter of fact, I think the 705 is one of the best sounding receivers that I have owned, and I've gone through quite a few reveivers.

kzx87

11-04-07, 12:19 PM

I just picked a 705 up from 1call for $536 with a free 2ft HDMI cable.

They are giving 10% off plus the HDMI cable if you call in and order it. What a steal imo.

turbe

11-04-07, 12:25 PM

HEADS UP!

SR805 on special this morning at CC - $629.99 - use this 10% coupon: KAAP6MRA6Z

Better hurry! :)

DrewM

11-04-07, 12:34 PM

I just picked a 705 up from 1call for $536 with a free 2ft HDMI cable.

They are giving 10% off plus the HDMI cable if you call in and order it. What a steal imo.

You beat me to it. I just finished ordering up mine for the 534.00 price. Great deal with the HDMI cable. Can't wait for Wednesday. The price is out the door no shipping charge. :)

Willland

11-04-07, 01:15 PM

Look near the top of the receiver list on the website and third from the top and you will see the 905. Prefix is TX-NR instead of TX-SR.

Giggzz

11-04-07, 01:40 PM

What is 1Call? I searxhed the CC site but couldnt find it.

Thanks

DrewM

11-04-07, 01:50 PM

What is 1Call? I searxhed the CC site but couldnt find it.

Thanks

It's a A/V distributor on the web not CC, and its one not 1. Do a search and you will find them. I've used them a few times and have had good success with them, even got my 57" RPTV from them.

Edit: and it only took 4 1/2 years for post 100

ManOfTheHour

11-04-07, 02:12 PM

HEADS UP!

SR805 on special this morning at CC - $629.99 - use this 10% coupon: KAAP6MRA6Z

Better hurry! :)

Showing up as $899.99 for me on the website. And even after the 10% off, that's still $800. Did I miss something?

phisch

11-04-07, 02:49 PM

HEADS UP!

SR805 on special this morning at CC - $629.99 - use this 10% coupon: KAAP6MRA6Z

Is this in store only, because it's not on the CC webpage? Incredible deal at that price.

turbe

11-04-07, 03:14 PM

Showing up as $899.99 for me on the website. And even after the 10% off, that's still $800. Did I miss something?

You guys missed it, the sale (or price mistake) was only up for an hour. They usually have them for 2 to 4 hours.

I just picked my SR805 up and loving it, the difference in cost for me is +$48.78 over the SR705. What a steal that was. I did order from the website and did the local CC pickup.

Now I have to cancel my Amazon order that I placed on Friday for $799.

-Shawn

gunbunnysoulja

11-04-07, 03:21 PM

You guys missed it, the sale (or price mistake) was only up for an hour. They usually have them for 2 to 4 hours.

I just picked my SR805 up and loving it, the difference in cost for me is +$48.78 over the SR705. What a steal that was. I did order from the website and did the local CC pickup.

Now I have to cancel my Amazon order that I placed on Friday for $799.

-Shawn

I'm guessing it was a price mistake, as it was listed as the current price of the 705. Either way, just got home with my 805 for $699.

turbe

11-04-07, 03:29 PM

I'm guessing it was a price mistake, as it was listed as the current price of the 705. Either way, just got home with my 805 for $699.

Damn, you didn't use the 10% coupon/option for Store Pickup? Either way, we got a steal......

Time to play! :D

gunbunnysoulja

11-04-07, 03:41 PM

Damn, you didn't use the 10% coupon/option for Store Pickup? Either way, we got a steal......

Time to play! :D

No way to order online. It wasn't listed as in stock at my local store, it was last in inventory. The closest store that had it in stock online was over 50 miles away, plus I'd have to pay tax in MA. Got it in NH, as I live on the Border of NH and MA.

csrini1

11-04-07, 08:38 PM

oh kool, how many degrees does yours run now and how much room do u have on top?

I actually have nothing on top of my receiver. I bought the fan bcos i thought the 705 was run way too hot for me. I initially used the target 5 dollar fan, that worked for me pretty good, even though it made some sound, i bought this fan from buyextras thinking it will be ultra quiet, but it is not as quiet when run on 12V setting, however when i lower it down, the sound is ok. with this new fan on top of my receiver, the 705 atleast to the touch of my hand, is not even warm, I am a bit lazy to read the manual (again) to find out the temp reading.

For the other guy, who asked what fan we are talking about, here it is
http://www.buyextras.com/evavcoblfanf.html for 23+6shipping.

Garman

11-04-07, 08:53 PM

Csrini1: I just bought the 705 tonight from 1call... They had a deal where you could get this for around 5 bills and some change with a good HDMI cable thrown in. Since I just picked up a 605 yesterday, and popped it out of the box, it is going back tomorrow. I paid the same price locally for the 605 that I got the 705, thanks to a friend who told me of the deal. This is going in a second room and I was looking for a receiver for $500 or less, but couldn't pass this up with the free cable which I was going to buy eventually.

My question is this unit is going in a closed cabinet but I can keep it open if I need to while in use so it should be a problem heat wise.

thestaton

11-04-07, 09:56 PM

*sigh mine over heated tonight. I was lazy and forgot to turn on my fan before I powered it up and sure enough after about an hour I heard 2 loud clicks in my speakers and the standy by light started flashing. I have an open air TV stand and it's got about 2.5" / 3" of clearance so that's more than likely the problem.

So I put the fan on max for about an hour and reset it. Working great again, so I've placed an order for the fan here everyone recommends, that way it comes on with the 705 and I don't have to worry about it any more.

varan

11-05-07, 01:37 AM

The 'Burr Brown DACs' of legend are also 24bit, so presumably the difference is in their lack of noise or some such.
The 705 sounds perfectly fine to my ears, though I don't have very power hungry speakers, nor the volume to fill for which I'd need them. Burr Brown DACs may impove signal-to-noise (S/N) ratio. My 705 however sounds awesome in my 12 * 20 * 9 OPEN living room space with Infinity and Polk speakers.

Uptown193

11-05-07, 03:26 AM

I just want to say YOU SUCK for having CoD4 early! How the hell did you get an autographed copy?

lol, yea i know, and I'm already on level 32. I got the signed copy from a Pre-release COD4MW demo party in NYC, they were giving them out to the first 100 who walked in the store along with a hat, COD4 water bottle and some other lil nick nacks. I got to the one of the levels on the game there to, it was kool.

Uptown193

11-05-07, 03:27 AM

I guess the question should be how much was that off ebay? :rolleyes:

Ha ha ha, very funny, jealously will get you no where, lol.

Uptown193

11-05-07, 03:33 AM

How did you get the temp to read on the receiver and what fan is that/where can I buy it?

Hey sorry, i been busy playin COD4MW for 2 days lol. However, I got the fan/cooler from buyextras.com, just go to the website and click on coolers and you will see them all there plus mine for $23. If u cant find it ill send u the link.

woots

11-05-07, 06:25 AM

Ha ha ha, very funny, jealously will get you no where, lol.

:mad: I'll be picking up my CoD4 at the store today like all the rest of us mortals... so there! :D

I am wanting to play "assassins creed" and "mass effect" probably just as much as COD4.. all come out this month one after the other... busy month for games.. and no time to play!

I am still trying to debate if im buying that 200 buck rock band drummer and guitar super pack. I play drums as a hobby in real life.. I read from other drummers who played it said that even though of course its childlike and unrealistic version of a drumset.. the timing factor of the game is cool.. and playing a long to some cool tracks gets addicting.

I was concerned about the audio sync issue of the 705 with rockband and guitarhero games:
So.. I played the guitarhero 3 demo I downloaded off xbox live.. and I was able to ensure my 705 audio sync was in perfect alignment and i was able to click to the rhythm of the music instead of just the visuals on the screen (during long repetitive button combo phrases of the music).

I had read that the 705 made it impossible to play those games. My sync was in perfect alignment right off the bat. I use the xbox dashboard click button sound effects to tweak the timing of my audio sync delay. Seems to hold perfect within the games themselves too.

Ironically, I thought I was gonna hate those kinda games until I tried it on that demo yesterday (I even used a normal controller .. since I dont have a guitarhero guitar) I still got into it right away.... gets so addicting quickly.

woots

11-05-07, 08:13 AM

elfnmagik

11-05-07, 08:34 AM

I'm going to start looking for an HD tv for Christmas and wanted to know if anyone knew of any sets that had 1.3 HDMI connections or how any of this plays into taking advantage of 1.3 in the future.Anybody?

texster

11-05-07, 08:54 AM

woots

11-05-07, 09:13 AM

I've had the 705 for a couple of months - got lucky on one of the cc special sales. I'm driving kef 2005 speakers + sub and added one rear surround - great sounding system.

I'm considering adding a 2nd rear, however my setup is in a small room and I really don't need the extra speaker unless there are audio sources that will take advantage of the 7th speaker.

Are there any current or future hd surround formats utilizing 7 discrete channels?

Blu Ray and HD DVD players (the better models) ... and your current receiver .... all take advantage of 7.1. Your receiver can matrix up any 5.1 to 7.1 with all the "x" DSP's like (PLIIx for example). Also even though 6.1 and 7.1 mastered movies are rare.. they are still out there. I know on blu ray side Cars and Ratatouille that come out tomorrow both will be mastered natively in 7.1 channels. I also think more and more movies will start to be produced in 7.1 channels. (most have been 5.1 ....and rarely 6.1.. and very rarely 7.1) 7.1 channels HD receivers are starting to become common place so I think the 7.1 media will start to trickle in now. (major company like Disney movies doing 7.1 is a good start)

joed32

11-05-07, 10:17 AM

eklee

11-05-07, 10:32 AM

Uptown193

11-05-07, 10:55 AM

Ironically, I thought I was gonna hate those kinda games until I tried it on that demo yesterday (I even used a normal controller .. since I dont have a guitarhero guitar) I still got into it right away.... gets so addicting quickly.

Oh so the demo lets u use a regular controller, I wanted to download it but i wasnt sure if i could use it or not. Good luck with getting COD4MW today, hit me up when ur on, im already on level 32.

Uptown193

11-05-07, 11:09 AM

I mention all this to say that I'm going to start looking for an HD for Christmas and wanted to know if anyone knew of any sets that had 1.3 HDMI connections or how any of this plays into a display in trying to make sure I utilize all the advantages of 1.3 in the future.

I know that the new Pioneer Plasmas have HDMI 1.3. If all of your components are HDMI 1.3, mainly your 1080p display, HD/BD player, HDMI 1.3 receiver and I believe a HD/BD disc movie you will enable "Deep Color" along with Dolby TrueHD and DTSHD-MA sound. See below and this link http://www.audioholics.com/education/display-formats-technology/understanding-hdmi-ver-1.3 for more info on HDMI 1.3. I highly reccommend everyone click this link and read it carefully, its very information and will answer all your questions about HDMI 1.3. I Hope this helps.

HDMI 1.3a incorporates automatic audio syncing (lip sync) capability. This is a system that will automatically adjust for the difference in electronic latency between the processing circuits of the sound and image. This discrepancy sometimes manifests itself as a slight delay in the sound compared to the image.

HDMI 1.3a supports output of Dolby TrueHD and DTS-HD Master Audio streams for external decoding by AV receivers. TrueHD and DTS-HD are lossless audio codec formats used on HD DVDs and Blu-ray Discs. If the disc player can decode these streams into uncompressed audio, then HDMI 1.3 is not necessary, as all versions of HDMI can transport uncompressed audio.

HDMI 1.0

Released December 2002 - Single-cable digital audio/video connection with a maximum bit rate of 4.9Gbps. Supports up to 165Mpixels/sec video

HDMI 1.1

Released May 2004 - Added support for content protection metadata required for DVD Audio.

HDMI 1.2

Released August 2005 - Added support for One Bit Audio, used on Super Audio CDs, up to 8 channels.

HDMI 1.2a

Released December 2005 - Fully specifies Consumer Electronic Control (CEC) features, command sets, and CEC compliance tests.

HDMI 1.3

Released 22 June 2006 - Increases single-link bandwidth to 340 MHz (10.2 Gbps). This requires a cable designed for these higher bandwidths. All previous versions used the same HDMI cable. HDMI 1.3 and HDMI 1.3a use the same connector as HDMI 1.2a

HDMI 1.3a

Released 10 November 2006

dropzone7

11-05-07, 11:13 AM

:mad: I'll be picking up my CoD4 at the store today like all the rest of us mortals... so there! :D

I am wanting to play "assassins creed" and "mass effect" probably just as much as COD4.. all come out this month one after the other... busy month for games.. and no time to play!

I am still trying to debate if im buying that 200 buck rock band drummer and guitar super pack. I play drums as a hobby in real life.. I read from other drummers who played it said that even though of course its childlike and unrealistic version of a drumset.. the timing factor of the game is cool.. and playing a long to some cool tracks gets addicting.

I was concerned about the audio sync issue of the 705 with rockband and guitarhero games:
So.. I played the guitarhero 3 demo I downloaded off xbox live.. and I was able to ensure my 705 audio sync was in perfect alignment and i was able to click to the rhythm of the music instead of just the visuals on the screen (during long repetitive button combo phrases of the music).

I had read that the 705 made it impossible to play those games. My sync was in perfect alignment right off the bat. I use the xbox dashboard click button sound effects to tweak the timing of my audio sync delay. Seems to hold perfect within the games themselves too.

Ironically, I thought I was gonna hate those kinda games until I tried it on that demo yesterday (I even used a normal controller .. since I dont have a guitarhero guitar) I still got into it right away.... gets so addicting quickly.

Oh man, I am so hooked on that GHIII demo! Playing with the controller kind of sucks but I got pretty good at it.

phisch

11-05-07, 11:27 AM

Can anyone tell me how to check the temp on the 705? I know it's been posted before on this thread, but I am having a hard time finding it.

dropzone7

11-05-07, 11:58 AM

Can anyone tell me how to check the temp on the 705? I know it's been posted before on this thread, but I am having a hard time finding it.

From a past post:

1) Turn on receiver (if not already)
2) Press and hold "Display" button and then immediately press "Standby" button
3) Release both buttons (MAIN page of firmware info will be displayed) and then quickly press "Tone" button (if you wait too long, the display will revert back to what it was before the "Display" and "Standby" buttons were pressed). Temperature info will stay on until a function change is initiated.

Uncle_Joe

11-05-07, 12:27 PM

HEADS UP!

SR805 on special this morning at CC - $629.99 - use this 10% coupon: KAAP6MRA6Z

Better hurry! :)
Thanks for the post -- I had just ordered the 705 from CC at the $585 price (pre-tax) . . . . I had crossed the 805 off my list because I didn't think it was worth the extra $200 . . . . After logging on to AVS and seeing your post (I hadn't even checked the 805's price), I ordered the 805 at just $50 more. I had missed the August 4 hour sale -- now I'm glad it worked out.

FYI, for those others out there waiting for CC to drop the price . . . their fiscal quarter ends this month, so there should be more November opportunities.

ak493

11-05-07, 12:52 PM

csrini1

11-05-07, 01:36 PM

warlord260

11-05-07, 01:44 PM

I am looking forward to to the Blu Ray release of Cars and Ratatouille cause they are promising 7.1 surround sound. These will be the 1st large studio produced Hi Def movies I will own that are mastered in 7.1 surround sound.

I will let you guys all know how they sound via the 705 once they arrive in a couple days or so.

which player do you have? i have the sammy 1200. will this out put 7.1 bitstream? if so just put thx select, and let it go? i am connected hdmi 1.3, if that helps.

csrini1

11-05-07, 01:48 PM

Gang -

I picked up the sr705 this weekend. Should I switch over to the 805? Would someone mind please giving me the rundown on the benefits?

The people in the stores are useless. I am not sure how the average customer even decided on what to buy anymore.

I considered the sr605 and denon avr-888. Went with the sr705 because of the 3 hdmi and power.

Thoughts?
posted by carter before

When you go from the 705 to the 805, it adds:

THX Ultra2 certified (vs. THX Select2)
130W/channel (vs 100W)
Modular separates internal construction
Much Higher Instantaneous Current Capability (60A vs 36A)
Burr Brown DACs
More Connectivity
wider analog video bandwidth (100Mhz vs. 50Mhz)
Zone 3
Direct Mode
110db Line-In S/N (vs. 106dB)

In the new product line, this receiver step-up (705 -> 805) probably has the biggest "delta" between models.

I believe the 805 just gives 30 more watts per channel and THX Ultra certification.

Jeremy Anderson

11-05-07, 02:21 PM

In the Onkyo 705's Speaker Config menu, I set the center speaker's crossover frequency to 120hz. But I am still able to hear bass coming out of my center speaker.

Here's more detail: My 705 is hooked up to an HTPC via optical cable. I have 5.1 speaker configuration. In speaker config menu, I set all speakers' (except center) crossover frequency to 80hz. I then play a bass test file from my htpc, which will play a low frequency sound from 20hz to 100hz in 15 seconds. I didn't turn on any audio processing, i.e. the sound is played in PCM mode.

If my center's crossover frequency is set at 120hz, then the 705 should not send the audio to the center speaker, right? As it is right now, the center speaker is playing my bass test, and with distortion.

What am I missing, or perhaps playing an mp3 bass test file is not a good way to test the crossover frequencies?

A few things:
1) If you're sending a monaural bass tone, it will either come from your left and right speakers at the same time or from your center, depending on what you have mono set to under menu number 4: audio options on the receiver.

2) The crossover isn't a brickwall filter, so it isn't like it just doesn't play anything below that frequency. Put simply for illustration's sake, the crossover is a gradual transition (24dB per octave) from the speaker to the subwoofer, with the crossover frequency being the frequency where the sub and speaker are roughly equal in output. Therefore, if you set it to 80Hz, an 80Hz tone should come from both your subwoofer and speaker at roughly the same level (if the speakers and sub are level matched). Now, this is assuming that it is a straight 24dB/octave filter - it may be a 24dB/octave low pass and 6dB/octave high pass, meaning you will still get significant output from the speaker several octaves below the crossover point. That's why I recommend finding out the lowest extension point of your speaker and setting the crossover on the receiver roughly 20Hz higher than that. Doing this gives the speaker a little room to properly transition to the sub before the natural rolloff of the speaker begins, and it should give you better directionality of upper and mid bass.

dropzone7

11-05-07, 02:37 PM

RobertR1

11-05-07, 02:52 PM

A few things:
2) The crossover isn't a brickwall filter, so it isn't like it just doesn't play anything below that frequency. Put simply for illustration's sake, the crossover is a gradual transition (24dB per octave) from the speaker to the subwoofer, with the crossover frequency being the frequency where the sub and speaker are roughly equal in output. Therefore, if you set it to 80Hz, an 80Hz tone should come from both your subwoofer and speaker at roughly the same level (if the speakers and sub are level matched). Now, this is assuming that it is a straight 24dB/octave filter - it may be a 24dB/octave low pass and 6dB/octave high pass, meaning you will still get significant output from the speaker several octaves below the crossover point. That's why I recommend finding out the lowest extension point of your speaker and setting the crossover on the receiver roughly 20Hz higher than that. Doing this gives the speaker a little room to properly transition to the sub before the natural rolloff of the speaker begins, and it should give you better directionality of upper and mid bass.

Thanks for this Jeremy. I went back and saw the specs on my Paradigm CC370 v.3 center. In the specs it states Frequency range from 100hz - 20khz.

Here's the issue though. The rest of the speakers can go lower and as per your previous recommendations, I have them set to 70 for the fronts and 80 for the surrounds. I then got a SPL meter from radio shack and manually calibrated everything to 75db, including the sub. The sub as 75db is rather weak and would love to calibrate it higher (like 85) for a bit more bass but here's the issue.

Let's say I have fronts at 70, surrounds at 80hz but the center crossed at 100 (it'd be 120 if I go with your recommendation of 20 over spec). Then I have the sub calibrated to 85db but the rest of speakers at 75db. Now say the scene is a large explosion that sends low frequency to all speakers. Since the center is being crossed over at a much high rate, would that through the bass out of balance? Meaning the rest of the speakers would be handling 70/80-120hz at 75db on their own but the sub would take that range from the center and push it out at 85db thus overpowering the rest of the setup?

oners

11-05-07, 04:07 PM

woots

11-05-07, 04:32 PM

My Onkyo 705 is having trouble with operating above -15dB on a consistent basis. I just bought a new Velodyne sub and have been trying it out with a few movies - such as the Matrix shoot-out scene (I believe its like scene 28 or so) in the lobby. The receiver does an automatic shutoff at levels above the -15dB level. Any thoughts as to what would be causing this issue.

My apologies if this has been answered before, but I browsed through issues related to sound level and didn't find anything.

Thank you in advance for your help.

Few questions:

-How much space do you have above and around your receiver (in inches)?

-Does your receiver get fan or airflow, or is it inside a sealed cabinet?

-I see your mentioned your velodyne sub (which I assume is self powered), however what are your other speakers? Do you have a 7.1, 6.1 or 5.1 setups? Whats the power rating on these speakers (how much watts can they handle) ?

Jeones

11-05-07, 05:32 PM

Question on the 705 and Audyssey setup wit a Sub.

My sub, has a volume control as well as a frequency control. My quesion is where do I set them? Do I turn the volume all the way up? I assume I set the frequency control to the crossover set on the 705.

thanks

RobertR1

11-05-07, 05:38 PM

Frequency all the way up, volume depends on how powerful your sub is. I set mind to halfway and let the audessy configure it. Then I used a SPL meter to set it at 75db.

Jeremy Anderson

11-05-07, 05:42 PM

Jeremy,
I am having a hard time dialing in my setup. My dad and my brother and I watched "The 300" Saturday afternoon and they were both complaining of lack of bass and surround effects. They said that speech was clear but not much else was audible. I let Audyssey do my setup and it set my fronts to full band which I do not think is correct. I am using Ascend Acoustics speakers all the way around (5.1) and a Dayton Audio sub. What would you recommend I set the crossovers at for these?

Thy typical in-room frequency response are:

Fronts (CMB-170SE) 53Hz +/-3dB
Center (CMT-340SE) 45Hz +/-3dB
Surrounds (HTM-200) 74Hz +/-3dB

I did play around with the bass and changed my sub crossover to 120Hz and pushed the level up to +5. Did not get many complaints about bass after that.

I would set fronts to 70, center to either 60 or 70 (try both and see which sounds better with bassy voices - 70 is a safe bet, 60 may be iffy but is worth a shot), and surrounds to 90. You might try 80 with the surrounds if you feel like you're losing directionality of mid-bass, but I think 70, 60, 90 would be a good starting point for you to critically listen and see what you think.

rutlian

11-05-07, 05:48 PM

question about audio, I have Onkyo 705 connected my hd a2 via hdmi I have 7.1 speaker set. my a2 is setup is hdmi audio out is in PCM, and the face off audio choices are dd+ ex and dts 6.1 but why is it that When I press display over my onkyo remote it is showing mch pcm 5.1 if I select dts 6.1 or DD+ ex. is this correct? and I am getting sounds with my rear channel. should I change my setting with my a2? anything?

And I also have a blu ray player (bdd10a) and when I played the descent and Crank they are both displaying mch pcm 7.1 over my Onkyo 705.

gunbunnysoulja

11-05-07, 05:53 PM

Frequency all the way up, volume depends on how powerful your sub is. I set mind to halfway and let the audessy configure it. Then I used a SPL meter to set it at 75db.

Exactly. Always bypass the frequency by turning it all the way up, allowing the receiver to do the processing, thus not having the possibility of a gap in multiple crossovers. I also set my sub halfway and configure the receiver and with my SPL meter.

gunbunnysoulja

11-05-07, 05:55 PM

kplex

11-05-07, 05:56 PM

Blu Ray and HD DVD players (the better models) ... and your current receiver .... all take advantage of 7.1. Your receiver can matrix up any 5.1 to 7.1 with all the "x" DSP's like (PLIIx for example). Also even though 6.1 and 7.1 mastered movies are rare.. they are still out there. I know on blu ray side Cars and Ratatouille that come out tomorrow both will be mastered natively in 7.1 channels. I also think more and more movies will start to be produced in 7.1 channels. (most have been 5.1 ....and rarely 6.1.. and very rarely 7.1) 7.1 channels HD receivers are starting to become common place so I think the 7.1 media will start to trickle in now. (major company like Disney movies doing 7.1 is a good start)

According to bluray.com, both Ratatouille and Cars have 5.1 pcm tracks.

http://www.blu-ray.com/movies/top.php

I didn't go through all of them, but the only movie I can find at that website that's more than 5.1 is Pan's Labyrinth which is DTS-HD MA 7.1.

Jeremy Anderson

11-05-07, 05:57 PM

Thanks for this Jeremy. I went back and saw the specs on my Paradigm CC370 v.3 center. In the specs it states Frequency range from 100hz - 20khz.

Here's the issue though. The rest of the speakers can go lower and as per your previous recommendations, I have them set to 70 for the fronts and 80 for the surrounds. I then got a SPL meter from radio shack and manually calibrated everything to 75db, including the sub. The sub as 75db is rather weak and would love to calibrate it higher (like 85) for a bit more bass but here's the issue.

Let's say I have fronts at 70, surrounds at 80hz but the center crossed at 100 (it'd be 120 if I go with your recommendation of 20 over spec). Then I have the sub calibrated to 85db but the rest of speakers at 75db. Now say the scene is a large explosion that sends low frequency to all speakers. Since the center is being crossed over at a much high rate, would that through the bass out of balance? Meaning the rest of the speakers would be handling 70/80-120hz at 75db on their own but the sub would take that range from the center and push it out at 85db thus overpowering the rest of the setup?

If your system is properly calibrated, you should still get roughly the same amount of bass from each speaker even with different crossovers on each - you'll just have it coming from the sub more than from the speaker (though you'll still have some of it coming from the speaker, since the gradual transition is there to maintain directionality). If, however, you run the subwoofer hot, you throw that balance off.

I don't recommend running your subwoofer 10dB hotter than the other speakers for one very big reason: The LFE channel already gets a +10dB boost during the decoding stage, which is why reference level equates to 105dB peaks from each speaker and 115dB peaks from the subwoofer. If you run the sub 10dB hot, yes you will get more bass from the redirected bass from other channels... but you'll also be asking your sub to push itself to ridiculous levels on the LFE channel. Remember that an additional 3dB of sound from your sub requires twice as much power... so 10dB hot is asking an awful lot. Unless you have a monster subwoofer capable of 10dB over reference, I don't recommend it.

Now, a lot of people do run their subs 2-3dB hot, especially if they don't listen at near reference levels. Because of the way the crossovers work, this is somewhat equivalent to using a house curve on the sub, where the frequency response slopes higher as the frequency gets lower to compensate for the way humans perceive "loudness" at lower levels.

jparkhse

11-05-07, 06:51 PM

rare-air

11-05-07, 07:10 PM

I am personally baffled why some people get this hum and others don't. Especially when some people say they got direct proof from Onkyo that its a known problem. It makes me never want to update or change my firmware at all on the off chance I may mess my receiver up and get the hum myself.
How known is this problem I talked with Onkyo support today and they know nothing about this issue at least that support person doesn't or didn't want to admit anything. Is there some sort of TSB# that I can reference? I have had the receiver for 3 months and all this time I thought it was my cheap sub but just installed a $900 svs sub and sure enough the hum is still there. Anything above -15 with the DSP's is humming bad. Of course when things are exploding you do not really notice but pause the movie or go into a quiet scene and it is unbearable. It is too late to return and get an 805 which wouldn't really fit in my rack anyway. The only thing I have not done is by an expensive power conditioner which I always thought was snake oil anyway. Tried ground loop isolators different outlets, cables.
Onkyo support said to reset which I don't believe will fix anything other than erasing my settings.
Would some sort of isolating power conditioner help?
-Craig

fubdap

11-05-07, 07:39 PM

My Onkyo 705 is having trouble with operating above -15dB on a consistent basis. I just bought a new Velodyne sub and have been trying it out with a few movies - such as the Matrix shoot-out scene (I believe its like scene 28 or so) in the lobby. The receiver does an automatic shutoff at levels above the -15dB level. Any thoughts as to what would be causing this issue.

My apologies if this has been answered before, but I browsed through issues related to sound level and didn't find anything.

Thank you in advance for your help.

Check your speaker wires from both ends (receiver and speakers) and make sure the exposed parts are not touching each other.

fubdap

11-05-07, 07:54 PM

This is my first post.
I've lurked around this thread and finally bought a 705. I had some questions during the hook up, but with all the detailed information in here I was able to search and find the answers. Except for this one.
The codes in the manual for the Toshiba DVDs does not work with the 705 remote. Any of you experts out there know, or is able to suggest a code that might work with the A2??

Thanks.

I used the instructions on page 107 of the owners manual (Learning Commands). The Onkyo remote could not learn all the commands but at least it turns it on/off, open/close tray, and play.

tommcjr

11-05-07, 08:17 PM

Hi Guys-
I know this is the 705 thread (which I'll be getting...or the 805) but for now..need some assistance....I have the hdmi output of my cable box (dct something) going into the receiver. It appears that I'm only getting 2 channel sound, even when advertised as 5.1 on the info of the program (says pcm 48khz). Should I get an optical output off of the cable box instead of using hdmi for audio (switching not that big of a deal due to harmony 880)...thanks

Boogie7910

11-05-07, 08:28 PM

How known is this problem I talked with Onkyo support today and they know nothing about this issue at least that support person doesn't or didn't want to admit anything. Is there some sort of TSB# that I can reference? I have had the receiver for 3 months and all this time I thought it was my cheap sub but just installed a $900 svs sub and sure enough the hum is still there. Anything above -15 with the DSP's is humming bad. Of course when things are exploding you do not really notice but pause the movie or go into a quiet scene and it is unbearable. It is too late to return and get an 805 which wouldn't really fit in my rack anyway. The only thing I have not done is by an expensive power conditioner which I always thought was snake oil anyway. Tried ground loop isolators different outlets, cables.
Onkyo support said to reset which I don't believe will fix anything other than erasing my settings.
Would some sort of isolating power conditioner help?
-Craig

No, it's a problem with the 705.

Refer to these posts:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=929197
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=931586