Are you sure of this? The 705 manual (page 27) shows Component still also being passed through when HDMI Monitor is set to "Yes" (as well as being converted to 720P on the HDMI output). In that case, it shows Composite and SVideo also being passed through on their own outputs, but only being upconverted onto the HDMI (not Component) output.

When HDMI Monitor is set to "No", it shows no HDMI being passed through at all, but the Composite and SVideo are converted to Component.

As long as you had an HDMI monitor, it looks like setting HDMI Monitor to "Yes" would be best and you'd still be able to pick up the Component signal if needed (but it would have to be sourced as Component).

Warren.

That's right. Component will passthrough fine in both cases of HDMI Monitor. What I wanted was upconvert S-Video to Component with HDMI Monitor set to Yes (or No, as long as HDMI output works as well).

That would be component-to-component. Sorry I wasn't more clear!
Last night after my post, I noticed on the Curt Palme forum that others had had the same issue with HDMI receivers and the HD Fury (and solved them the same way I was considering). It seems that many receivers don't recognize DVI-D/HDCP connections like the Fury has, only HDMI/HDCP. However, the switchers do work with them. I picked up another HDMI cable today so I could route signals from the 705 through my switcher, and it does work. Woo-hoo!

I called polk audio regarding my speakers and I was told that my front channel are not full band and that they are to set only as small. And I have them set up 80hrz (thx) with my 705 and I believed that is consider small and I have my subwoofer set to 'YES'
and why dont I get signal from subwoofer? Well I will check tonight what is wrong with it.

I've been studying the user manuals of several competing receivers trying to find one that will do everything I want it to do. The Onkyo 805 fulfills all my requirements, but it's too big to fit into my equipment cabinet. When I found the user manual for the 705, it appeared to do nearly everything the 805 could do (I don't care about THX or a third zone) but in a smaller, less expensive package. However, I've come to realize that the 705 doesn't appear to do two things that every other receiver does, including the one I want to replace. Both of these things are important to me.

First, since the 705 has a shortage of input selectors, I planned to assign two different components, one with an analog output and one with a digital output, to one input selector. I would then switch between analog and digital signals to play one or the other component. Unfortuntely I can't find any way listed to switch between the analog and digital inputs that are connected to an input selector. The 805 has a button called Audio Sel that allows you to choose between analog and digital inputs, but I can't find a corresponding funtion in the 705. It appears that the 705 will automatically detect whichever signal is present with the digital signal taking precedence, but is there any way to switch between analog and digital signals connected to the same input selector when a signal is present on each?

Second, every other A/V receiver I've seen has a front panel display that shows which channels are being input to the receiver from the currently selected component. I don't see that the 705 has this feature. Is there any way to get this information? I think it's important because it determines what processing, if any, is needed to be applied to the signal. It also allows you to verify if the DVD actually has the type of signal that is listed on the box. I have many discs that say they have Dolby Digital 5.1 sound but only have two channels.

Currently jr.com has the sr705 for $649.99 which I think is a really good price with free shipping.

Just found out that Vanns.com has it for $629.99 with free shipping.

If I dont have a full band fronts and if I do manually set up the double bass anyway just to have signal from my subwoofer is that something risky like short circuit, safety is one I am concern.

Its pretty hard to blow a speaker. If you hear distortion then thats a sign you're going to low-too hard. Know your limits. I've run my technically small speakers as large but I don't play things loud. However, things I do, I try not to advise others to do. You do as I say not as I do.

In speaker config, do you have subwoofer set to YES?

Is anyone running an Xbox 360 with HD DVD add-on via component to the receiver then HDMI out to the tv? I am just wondering if anyone notices any degradation of the signal. I know that it will only come out at 720p, but that doesnt matter to me since my tv is 720p native. I want to get an ISF calibration on my tv, but I only want to do one input. Thanks.
I had the same issue until I accessed the hidden menu (POWER + AUX) and adjusted the sharpness, contrast and saturation. Now it looks as good as it did when I had the 360 connected directly to the TV.

Its pretty hard to blow a speaker. If you hear distortion then thats a sign you're going to low-too hard. Know your limits. I've run my technically small speakers as large but I don't play things loud. However, things I do, I try not to advise others to do. You do as I say not as I do.

In speaker config, do you have subwoofer set to YES?

subwoofer is in YES. I really don't understand, is there is something to do
with everything set to pcm, Before I know that I have sounds coming out prior
to changing the receiver. I double check my connections and it is indeed in proper connection.

But I noticed that the 705 is default to full band for the front speakers, then I change that into 80 (thx) you think when I run the audessey it will work? how come I can't change the speaker into small or large? 80 hrz is for small size is it? with my panny bd10a I can set my speakers small or large. hopefully that will work. Thanks mrgribbles for everything you do in this thread.

Peter

subwoofer is in YES. I really don't understand, is there is something to do
with everything set to pcm, Before I know that I have sounds coming out prior
to changing the receiver. I double check my connections and it is indeed in proper connection.

But I noticed that the 705 is default to full band for the front speakers, then I change that into 80 (thx) you think when I run the audessey it will work? how come I can't change the speaker into small or large? 80 hrz is for small size is it? with my panny bd10a I can set my speakers small or large. hopefully that will work. Thanks mrgribbles for everything you do in this thread.

Peter

Small and large are basically just simplified settings that translate to "crossover" and "don't crossover". Usually, "small" crosses speakers over at 80Hz. With the 705, you have more flexibility, in that you can crossover at the point that best complements your individual speaker. The Audyssey setup attempts to decide the best setting for the crossovers with its test tones, but any speaker that is relatively flat down to 60-80Hz seems to get detected as full range. That's an issue with Onkyo's implementation of Audyssey, and isn't a problem that shows up in other brands' implementations of it.

Even if you set the crossovers, running Audyssey afterwards will change your settings... so I would run Audyssey first and see what it detects. Then select 80Hz afterwards. Sadly, there's no way with the Onkyos to override those settings so the Audyssey XT adjusts the curve like there is on the Denons (which let you override the crossover settings before the equalization step occurs, from my understanding).

Thanks jeremy I will run it tonight. I will report back right away if I get sounds from subwoofer. Right now it seems that the bass is coming out from front channels. And I really base to come out from my sub. I really dont understand why I don't get anything to come out from sub, it is frustrating. Or maybe my sub are busted.

Hi Tim, you can set lip sync or audio delay for each input source in setup - Source. I felt mine was off on cable by about -10 msec. Looks OK now. TNT is a bear, the 805/875 crowd constantly brings up TNT and sync issues. I'm not sure anyone has found a way to get that station right. Its a head end issue for the cableco.

For my satellite I went to source setup... A/V sync.... and set the msec to 250msec which is the max just to see. It made the lip sync way off so I set it to 0 msec and I still have some sync issues. I wish it could go the other way to -250msec. Which way does it adjust the sound? Does it speed it up or slow it down? I think my audio is ahead of my video.

Just nabbed the 705 today... been reading this thread a lot the past couple of days.

Back on post #225, the question was asked if there was a solution when you plug in a Wii via component while the hidden menu was set to "720p" and you get the 16:9 squished into a 4:3.

Has anyone found an answer to that yet?

Can you plug in component (480i or 480p), upconvert to 720p via the 705, and still have it display via HDMI as 16:9? Or should I just leave the HDMI output to "AUTO" and live with what I got?

Hello All,
Does anyone use the phono input for a turntable?

Is the input good? I might pick up a 705 so I can save money on not buying a preamp for a yet unpurchased turntable.

Thanks
eddie

Yep. I'm using the phono input. And it sounds d**ned good. All the surround modes, Audyssey EQ, and bass management are applied. It's for moving-magnet cartridges only, so if you have a moving coil cartridge, you'll need a transformer or preamp.

Question,

I have the 605, and from what I can tell, everything coming from my HD-A2 HD DVD player comes thru HDMI as PCM Multi Ch, so it's limited to 5.1. This means when watching any HD DVD, such as 300 with TrueHD, it's getting sent as PCM 5.1 and my rear center is silent.

Does the 705 address this by allowing post-processing of multi ch PCM using PLII or whatever so can make use of my 6.1 setup?

Thanks.

I'm going to jump on this also. I see Crutchfield has a $150 drop in price, matching CC. I have a 20% "new customer" coupon from Crutchfield, so I should get a deal on this now. I'm looking forward to replacing my old Pioneer (at least 15 years old!).

Question,

I have the 605, and from what I can tell, everything coming from my HD-A2 HD DVD player comes thru HDMI as PCM Multi Ch, so it's limited to 5.1. This means when watching any HD DVD, such as 300 with TrueHD, it's getting sent as PCM 5.1 and my rear center is silent.

Does the 705 address this by allowing post-processing of multi ch PCM using PLII or whatever so can make use of my 6.1 setup?

Thanks.

Yes it does. Plus being THX it has the additional THX surround modes.

For my satellite I went to source setup... A/V sync.... and set the msec to 250msec which is the max just to see. It made the lip sync way off so I set it to 0 msec and I still have some sync issues. I wish it could go the other way to -250msec. Which way does it adjust the sound? Does it speed it up or slow it down? I think my audio is ahead of my video.

I'm not sure which way it goes but I've been successful with it at 30 msec. With my 605, I had it at 0. I agree, going the other way would have been nice but a 1/2 a second of adjustment means something is really out of whack. LOTR was on TNT last night and it was visually stunning, if you could overlook the gross sync issues. I didn't even try to adjust it as it would have messed everything else up. Bummer.

I'm not sure which way it goes but I've been successful with it at 30 msec. With my 605, I had it at 0. I agree, going the other way would have been nice but a 1/2 a second of adjustment means something is really out of whack. LOTR was on TNT last night and it was visually stunning, if you could overlook the gross sync issues. I didn't even try to adjust it as it would have messed everything else up. Bummer.

I watched LOTR last night also on TNT-HD and didn't see any Lip sync problems.I have New DirecTv Hr20-100,older Pioneer 509 receiver and Westinghouse 42 inch LCD. Why do some people get Lip sync problems and some don't?

Thanks

Small and large are basically just simplified settings that translate to "crossover" and "don't crossover". Usually, "small" crosses speakers over at 80Hz. With the 705, you have more flexibility, in that you can crossover at the point that best complements your individual speaker. The Audyssey setup attempts to decide the best setting for the crossovers with its test tones, but any speaker that is relatively flat down to 60-80Hz seems to get detected as full range. That's an issue with Onkyo's implementation of Audyssey, and isn't a problem that shows up in other brands' implementations of it.

Even if you set the crossovers, running Audyssey afterwards will change your settings... so I would run Audyssey first and see what it detects. Then select 80Hz afterwards. Sadly, there's no way with the Onkyos to override those settings so the Audyssey XT adjusts the curve like there is on the Denons (which let you override the crossover settings before the equalization step occurs, from my understanding).

Good explanation. I think one of the reasons that Audyssey sometimes comes up with xover values that sometimes seem a bit out of the norm is that Audyssey is an EQ program so if a speaker presents with a shallower drop off Audyssey can apply boost to the lower frequencies, in effect, getting a bit more out of the curve so to speak. Strictly supposition, food for thought.

I am seeing a lip sync problem on my sources whether is it Directv or DVD/HD-DVD. The audio is ahead of the video. I am using HDMI for both, of course the video is passed through unaltered. (HD-A2, HR20 to Sanyo Z3 projector.)

And is it worse on some sources, like TNTHD movies last night the sync was way off and was unwatchable. It is a less degree on other channels and on DVD.
I don't know that it is a problem from the 705 or that any setting would help, because I think it was mentioned that your display would have to be compliant with that feature?

Is it possible that having a 25' cable to the projector(+ 6' to the 705) would delay the video so that the sound is ahead of it?:(

TNTHD is almost always out of sync for me... this is through 3 receivers, and even through the TV speakers, over Dish. Not sure why... I generally ignore that channel because of this. They usually crop their broadcasts anyway, so it's no great loss IMHO. It's the only HD channel I have this problem with.

Brief update on the component & HDMI concurrent out discussion. I hooked up a component cable to the TV from Component out on the 705. So from my Moto cable box I have component & HDMI into the AVR & component and HDMI out to the TV. If I change input on the TV, HDMI or component, the picture is there, so on my 705 they are both outputting concurrently.

I have just puchased and am in the process of calibrating my SVS 20-39 PCI cylinder.
I need a lot of handholding. My receiver, which I also just purchased, allows me to set crossover frequencies for each speaker. I have set up a 7.1 system. The crossover frequencies available to me are: Full Band, 40 Hz, 50Hz, 60Hz, 70 Hz, 80 Hz (THX), 90 Hz, 100 Hz, 120 Hz, 150 Hz, or 200 Hz. My receiver is an Onkyo TX SR 705 and it is THX select 2 certified.

My room is smallish at 16'X12'X7.5'

My current speakers are:
Klipsch Cornwall IIs for the fronts. Their frequency response is 37Hz to 20Khz with a sensitivity of 102 dB.
My center speaker is a Paradigm CC-100 with a low frequency extension of 70 Hz and a frequency response of +/- 2 dB from 100 Hz -20KHz,
My four surrounds (sides and backs) are Klipsch SS-1s as near as I can tell their frequency response is 83 Hz-23kHz with a 91 dB sensitivity.

First of all I have no idea what all of those numbers mean. I hope that I have included enough information for someone to tell me how to calibrate the sub and what crossover settings I should use on the receive. I tried using the Audessy set up but I don't think it was very accurate.

Also could someone explain volume settings? they seem to gor from negative numbers to positive numbers (-12dB to 81db) but I have no idea why or what they mean. Sorry for being such a newbie. I am cross posting this to the Subwoofer forum. Thanks in advance.

Hi guys i got my 705 2 days ago and i love it.. I do have 1 issue though and its that I can't get any sound out of my opt1 input.

I have my sony dvd in opt2 and my digital cable in opt1. I went in to the setup menu and configure them. I get sound for my dvd and no sound from digital cable.

If I reverse them then I get sound from my cable but no sound from my dvd. Is opt1 not working? Is there anything am not doing right?

Than you in advance!

Brief update on the component & HDMI concurrent out discussion. I hooked up a component cable to the TV from Component out on the 705. So from my Moto cable box I have component & HDMI into the AVR & component and HDMI out to the TV. If I change input on the TV, HDMI or component, the picture is there, so on my 705 they are both outputting concurrently.

Yes, thats the way it works. What doesn't work is that if I had S-Video In and HDMI In, I can't get S-Video-to-Component out and HDMI-to-HDMI out at the same time, irrespective of the settings. This is also in the diagrams on Pages 27 and 28 of the manual.

I'm going to jump on this also. I see Crutchfield has a $150 drop in price, matching CC. I have a 20% "new customer" coupon from Crutchfield, so I should get a deal on this now. I'm looking forward to replacing my old Pioneer (at least 15 years old!).

Got one below too....

I ordered from Crutchfield a car audio part last month. It was my first order with them. In the shipping box was a blue 8.5 x 11 flyer with a 15 digit code and a "Welcome" message from them. The code is obviously unique for me. My guess is anyone new to Crutchfield would get a coupon in thier intial order.

Just nabbed the 705 today... been reading this thread a lot the past couple of days.

Back on post #225, the question was asked if there was a solution when you plug in a Wii via component while the hidden menu was set to "720p" and you get the 16:9 squished into a 4:3.

Has anyone found an answer to that yet?

Can you plug in component (480i or 480p), upconvert to 720p via the 705, and still have it display via HDMI as 16:9? Or should I just leave the HDMI output to "AUTO" and live with what I got?

I'm having the same issue. Any solutions? I end up having to stretch the image with my TV to wide zoom as it gets squished when it's on Full. :( Pretty annoying.

Yes, thats the way it works. What doesn't work is that if I had S-Video In and HDMI In, I can't get S-Video-to-Component out and HDMI-to-HDMI out at the same time, irrespective of the settings. This is also in the diagrams on Pages 27 and 28 of the manual.

Yep, you got it figured out and the 605 does indeed have a leg up on the 705 in the way monitor out is handled.

The diagrams indicate that on the 605 HDMI is always on regardless of monitor setting, all that changes is you can't upconvert from analog to HDMI. On the 705 when Monitor is off, so is HDMI.

Many thanks for bringing this up, it adds to the hands on knowledge base.

I'm interested in knowing how this unit sounds playing cassettes, vinyl and CD's. Since I'll be playing alot of music through this I'd like to know more. Thanks

*****PS: If anyone would like a first time customer coupon good for $20 off your first order at Crutchfield send me a pm.*****

Hi guys i got my 705 2 days ago and i love it.. I do have 1 issue though and its that I can't get any sound out of my opt1 input.

I have my sony dvd in opt2 and my digital cable in opt1. I went in to the setup menu and configure them. I get sound for my dvd and no sound from digital cable.

If I reverse them then I get sound from my cable but no sound from my dvd. Is opt1 not working? Is there anything am not doing right?

Than you in advance!
I believe that I read in the manual that opt1 is set up for the DVD player. try switiching the devices arouns and see if that helps.

Just in case someone is looking for the black that's out of stock at Cruitchfield, J&R has both black and silver at $649.00 in stock.

http://www.jr.com/JRProductPage.process?Product=4192491

I just bit the bullet on the Silver from Crutchfield. I called them and the lady gave me 40 bucks off the price on the page. Beat Vann's by 20 bucks so I am happy.

I wasn't planning on upgrading my receiver so soon. I had the decent Onkyo HT-R340 receiver (SR-590S HTIB), which I was upgrading with new speakers for the time being until I found a great deal on the 705. However I had to rush my plans when I discovered that despite the manual mentioning a sub pre-out there is none, and my shiny powered sub only has line-in. So soon I will have the 705 + New Speakers in my Home Theater, and will swap the little HT-590S system to my bedroom for computer and small TV usage. With any luck the 705 should be delivered Thursday.

TV is a Phillips 47PFL7422D/37 47in 1080p. (3HDMI, 2 Component inputs)

Going to be hooking up:
Comcast HD-DVR - HDMI 1080i (Audio + Video over HDMI)
Xbox 360 - Component 1080p + Optical Audio
Nintendo Wii - Component + L/R Audio to reciever, HDMI out.
HTPC with AMD/ATI Radeon X2600XT Video card (Going to try Audio + Video over HDMI through receiver)

Eventually a PS3 and an HD-DVD player to come. Most likely the HD-DVD drive will go inside the HTPC when the internal drives go down in price.

I am curious about one thing though. Should I run the Xbox 360 at 1080p over component to the TV directly, or will I lose anything using the 705's component switch? Seeing as the 360 has quite long cables and this is the only thing going component out to the TV I dont even know if using the switch has a purpose for me, and I heard it might degrade quality a bit. Anyone got any input?

does this receiver have the low bass on pcm problem or is the bass fine across the board for all connections?

Had a scare earlier with my 705, flipped on my PS3 and the screen flickered 3 times and was real grainy and static like. The signal just quit after that all together. I was worried my receiver failed. :eek:

Turned out to be a bad HDMI (It was a brand new monoprice cable too, bought it same week I bought this receiver ... last week) :confused:

I tried a bunch of spare monoprice hdmi cables I had here and they rest worked, its definitely the cable.

So...Here is a Question....:rolleyes:

Now that I am faced with getting a new HDMI cable from monoprice(...yet again). I noticed they got the new hdmi 1.3a certified HDMI cables coming into stock 8/30 for sale.
Click Here For Direct Link (http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10240&cs_id=1024006&p_id=3661&style=&seq=1&format=2#description)

I was thinking since PS3 (my blu ray player) is hdmi 1.3 and my new fancy 705 is hdmi 1.3. Would getting a new 1.3 HDMI cable give me better bandwidth for those sexy uncompressed audio streams off my blu ray. I know my tv is 1.2, but I assume since its 1.3 from source to receiver I am getting the audio benefits of 1.3.. then from receiver to tv its 1.2 (which i do not care about, since my TV's speakers are turned off). Is this the way it works????

I could easily assume since my tv is 1.2 it makes everything 1.2 in the entire hdmi signal path operate at 1.2

... then again I could easily assume that from the ps3 to receiver I get modern 1.3 benefit (atleast on audio portion of the signal.)

Clarification would be helpful. Thx all! :D

I am curious about one thing though. Should I run the Xbox 360 at 1080p over component to the TV directly, or will I lose anything using the 705's component switch? Seeing as the 360 has quite long cables and this is the only thing going component out to the TV I dont even know if using the switch has a purpose for me, and I heard it might degrade quality a bit. Anyone got any input?

I have my xbox 360 running component to the tv and an optical cable going to the receiver. Rest is going through receiver hdmi in and hdmi out through receiver.

My rule of thumb is (on analog sources) like component. The more times you cut the signal path ... from source to destination....the more resistance is introduced on the line. Shortest distance between 2 points is a straight line and all that jazz.... Each chink in the path can add some degrees of interference and degrade the signal more, the more times you do it.

Having said all that .. as long as you use good cables I am sure the difference will be hard to notice.

However, my advice is .. just run component from 360 straight to the tv.. and use optical out to the receiver, in the end probably better off. Since you don't seem to care about gaining the benefit of converging all signal paths into 1 single HDMI cable to your tv... there no point in sacrificing any level of quality for no gained benefit. (no matter how small the loss is)

However, my advice is .. just run component from 360 straight to the tv.. and use optical out to the receiver, in the end probably better off. Since you don't seem to care about gaining the benefit of converging all signal paths into 1 single HDMI cable to your tv... there no point in sacrificing any level of quality for no gained benefit. (no matter how small the loss is)


Yeah I kinda figured that. Also I am excited about converging all my inputs except the 360, which is part of the reason I went for the 705. However I do not want to be downscaling the 360 from 1080p to 720p just for the sake of it. 2 Inputs is a pretty good deal though IMO.

Just in case someone is looking for the black that's out of stock at Cruitchfield, J&R has both black and silver at $649.00 in stock.

http://www.jr.com/JRProductPage.process?Product=4192491

still $100 more than cc price

what cc price, not what they have it for now and have had it for for a week or more. you can't compare current price that another store has to what cc had for like a few hours one early morn whether it was a mistake or not.

I ran a component in from my Moto cable box and component out to the TV to test some things and the picture detail was fine but the colors washed out noticeably. Woots is right on target. Many connections may not degrade an analog signal but they certainly won't improve it.

What is the bass sensitivity for the multichannel input for. It seems you can set it at 0,5,10, and 15db. Is this to compensate for low lfe in pcm? Does it work? I would hate to have to move the bass up and down from DD to pcm everytime. Where should it be set?

what cc price, not what they have it for now and have had it for for a week or more. you can't compare current price that another store has to what cc had for like a few hours one early morn whether it was a mistake or not.

Very true, the best I could do was $589 at Crutchfield with coupons applied.

What is the bass sensitivity for the multichannel input for. It seems you can set it at 0,5,10, and 15db. Is this to compensate for low lfe in pcm? Does it work? I would hate to have to move the bass up and down from DD to pcm everytime. Where should it be set?

Just what the manual says:

"Some DVD players output the LFE channel from their
subwoofer output at 15 dB higher than normal. You can
change the subwoofer sensitivity to match your DVD
player. Note that this setting only affects signals connected
to the SUBWOOFER input jack of the multichannel
DVD input."

This is for analog inputs only. Note that the settings go down, not up.

I have searched through the forum and could not find any evidence of the Wii issue (4:3 display only) being resolved. Has anyone figured it out?

If it's a hardware problem, is there a way to easily update the 705's firmware for a fix?

I believe that I read in the manual that opt1 is set up for the DVD player. try switiching the devices arouns and see if that helps.

I tried it jr ... i cannot get any sound out of opt 1 .. BUT opt 2 works fine. I can plug in my cable or dvd and I get sound out of opt 2 but opt 1 nothing...

I even reset the receiver and started from scratch.. nothing...i think i have a bad port :(

Question:

Since True HD and DTS HD are HDMI 1.3 spec additions. I have concerns that plugging my TV which is a HDMI 1.2 spec device will lower the entire pipeline down to 1.2 and negate me from ever being able to take advantage of True HD/DTS HD when the time comes (when ps3 gets new firmware).

Does HDMI lower the entire pipline for multiple devices interconnected to the lowest version in the entire chain?

Blu Ray Player (PS3) = HDMI 1.3
Receiver Onkyo 705 = HDMI 1.3
TV Sony Bravia = HDMI 1.2

These 3 devices are all connected together via HDMI cables. Will the, HDMI 1.3, higher quality audio pass through to the receiver and playback at 1.3 True HD/DTS HD.... then drop the video/audio going out of the receiver into the TV down to 1.2? Or will that TV drag all 3 devices down to 1.2?

PS: I am not using my TV for audio playback so if it lowers down to 1.2 at last moment I do not care, but if my TV becomes a burden on taking advantage of new uncompressed audio formats I need to do something about that.

Thanks in advance for anyone who knows the answer.

Hi everybody, hi there mrgribbles.. Wow I am gone for 2 days and now we have more new owners of the 705 and congrats everybody.

I found the problem about not having signal from my subwoofer, I apologized for everybody who tried to help me figuring it out. this is my 4th receiver so I know
connecting the subwoofer is not hard. The problem was I connected my subwoofer
into the 7.1 analog line in my reciever which should be connected to pre-out stu--d me.
and that is why everytime I run the audessey it would say no signal from subwoofer because it is connected to 7.1 analog.

Anyway I don't have any issue at all with my 705 so far I hope it stays like that.
Did any of you bought the extended warranty? is it worth it.

and to everybody I noticed that the neuralthx 7.1 can not be access with mch pcm 5.1
and DTS ES. with SD DVD it is no problem accept with dts es. Can anybody outline
the audio format that the neuralthx 7.1 can be access?

I played 2.0 movie last night just to test it out I access the nueralthx with no problem


And can everybody share their preference?
like for example if you have dolby digital plus from movie set up
I know that this would come out mch pcm 5.1 which DSP modes you prefer for the DDplus
so we have an idea which dsp is preferrable for dtshd hr, dd plus, thruhd and umcompressed 5.1 pcm

Thanks for sharing everyone...

Peter

Okay, I'm considering getting the 705, and I've been trying to make sense of the upconversion aspect. I want to make sure this will work:

Component Input #1 - Wii (480p)
HDMI Input #1 - XBox 360 (1080p)

Component Input #1 Selected = HDMI Output at 720p
HDMI Input #1 Selected = HDMI Output at 1080p

Thanks for your help.

Edit: Also, is it true that for HDMI passthrough to a HDMI connector on a TV that I won't have any lip syncing problems?

woots, it will be fine, or as fine as HDMI can be. What happens is that the player requests EDID info from the TV and AVR so all should be OK. In fact, what your player actually sees from the TV is an AVR modified version of the TV EDID.

Take a look at this post. Very interesting:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=11407701#post11407701

EDIT: I should point out that all the above is a reasonable guess since I don't have the ability yet to verify it. What I outlined is the way its supposed to work.

woots, it will be fine, or as fine as HDMI can be. What happens is that the player requests EDID info from the TV and AVR so all should be OK. In fact, what your player actually sees from the TV is an AVR modified version of the TV EDID.

Take a look at this post. Very interesting:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=11407701#post11407701

EDIT: I should point out that all the above is a reasonable guess since I don't have the ability yet to verify it. What I outlined is the way its supposed to work.

Thx MrGribles.. reading into it now.

Well I picked up a 705 at Circuit City yesterday, but ive yet to hook it up. Ive got to get another HDMI cable before I can do that. Hope everything works fine after I get it goin. Im gonna be hooking up the following:

Motorola/Charter cable box via component
Xbox 360 and HD DVD add-on via component
PS3 via HDMI
HDMI out to my Panny plasma

Hope I dont run into any problems!

I have searched through the forum and could not find any evidence of the Wii issue (4:3 display only) being resolved. Has anyone figured it out?

If it's a hardware problem, is there a way to easily update the 705's firmware for a fix?

Mine was fixed after changing the setting in the "secret menu" back to Auto instead of 720p.

Am a bit lost :confused:

These are my speaker specs

Maximum Recommended Amplifier Power 200 Watts
Impedance 8 Ohms
Sensitivity (2.83V @ 1m) 91dB
Frequency Response (–3dB) 37Hz – 20kHz
Crossover Frequency(ies) 850Hz, 3500Hz

Maximum Recommended Amplifier Power 100 Watts
Sensitivity (2.83V @ 1m) 88dB
Frequency Response (–10dB) 40Hz – 20kHz
Crossover Frequency 2kHz

Maximum Recommended Amplifier Power 150 Watts
Impedance 8 Ohms
Sensitivity (2.83V @ 1m) 91dB
Frequency Response (–3dB) 75Hz – 20kHz
Crossover Frequency(ies) 800Hz, 3200Hz

Subwoofer Velodyne 10"

Amplifier power 170 Watts
Frequency response 35Hz - 140Hz
Subwoofer driver size 10"

When I run the audyssey setup it sets all speakers to full range and sub to 80with double bass on?

Now reading the frequencies on the speakers am guessing they are not full range?

What should I be setting them at?

Also what is 8 omhs mean? I remember seeing 4 and 6 omhs in the onkyo setup..

One last thing it seems my opt1 connector is not working I tried everything (read my previous post) should I be returning it or trying to find a onkyo repair store?

Am really sorry for all the questions but a total nub in home theater...

Thank you for your help this thread has been very very helpful.

Has anybody tried to use the upconvert function over HDMI? I have my Tivo which uses S-Video connected to the back of my receiver and the HDMI cable going to my tv.

I noticed that the picture looks like it's suffering from video "noise". Anybody else have this issue when using s-video cable?

Out of the box, my tivo pic also left a lot to be desired that way. I then went to the hidden menu and made upconvert settings to 720p, contrast 55 and sharpness 16. The pic is much better now with the HDMI cable.

That is EXACTLY what I wound up with for 480i broadcast material. Great minds must think alike. The SD improvement is dramatically improved with these settings. I was going to post this myself. Confirmation is good for my OCD. Thanks

Well folks, I'm extremely happy that your SD is better. I just gave this a go (finally!!!) but I'm afraid the Comcast is delivering such crap that nothing helps it. I see a minor difference when switching back and fourth between AUTO and 720p, but it still is noisy and I'd rather be watching HD (DID YOU HEAR THAT COMCAST???:eek:)... but I'm leaving it on 720p just because I can. BTW: 805, SD TiVo, SD analog cable (:mad:), 60" SXRD XBR-1.

I am currently connecting my gaming systems (Wii and Xbox) to my 705 via component and left my "secret setting" at AUTO. I prefer the wide screen to the up-conversion, even though the 720p looks better.

If anyone finds a way around this without toying with the TV, that'd be sweet. The office has been a pain and I'm new to this HT stuff, but maybe I'll see what I can dig up this week on this topic. Doubt I'll find anything, so please don't hold your breath.

I am currently connecting my gaming systems (Wii and Xbox) to my 705 via component and left my "secret setting" at AUTO. I prefer the wide screen to the up-conversion, even though the 720p looks better.

If anyone finds a way around this without toying with the TV, that'd be sweet. The office has been a pain and I'm new to this HT stuff, but maybe I'll see what I can dig up this week on this topic. Doubt I'll find anything, so please don't hold your breath.

So do you output through HDMI or Component?

My first post in this thread - thanks for all the info! I was dead set on a Denon receiver to replace my old HK. But when I saw the prices and features of the 705 I had to jump in. So I got the 705 a couple weeks ago through the CC deal. With tax (free shipping) I paid $705 (ironic, huh?). But now I'm thinking I may order from Vann's and return this one. Would save my $75. Just wondering if it's worth that to be able to walk it back to the CC down the street if anything goes wrong... Kind of a nice convenience.

Anyways, haven't been able to set it up yet. We're having some work done to the house and I'm waiting until my new HT shelves are installed so I can connect everything up. Quick list of components:

Panasonic TH-50PX77U 50" Plasma (2 HMDI inputs)
DirecTV HD-DVR (HDMI)
XBOX 360 Elite (HDMI)
Toshiba Upconverting DVD Player (HDMI)
Sony 5 DVD Changer (Component)
Polk speakers (5)
KML Sub

My only question is, how much space does this baby need to stay cool?

Eddie

I have a DVD player sitting right on top of mine. It has yet to get over 134F. If you think that is hot then Onkyo recommends 8" of top clearance. BTW, the 705 has two small fans on the bottom so the warm (or hot depending on your view) air exits through the top. "Stay cool" I don't think there is a cool amplifier. The major heat area is above the processor(s) and they run hot. Intel rates their mobile (low watt - cool running) processors at up to 200 F, they do put out 34w when running full tilt. No doubt about it, cooler equipment is happier equipment so I guess its up to the owner on if they see it as a problem.

I have a DVD player sitting right on top of mine. It has yet to get over 134F. If you think that is hot then Onkyo recommends 8" of top clearance. BTW, the 705 has two small fans on the bottom so the warm (or hot depending on your view) air exits through the top. "Stay cool" I don't think there is a cool amplifier. The major heat area is above the processor(s) and they run hot. Intel rates their mobile (low watt - cool running) processors at up to 200 F, they do put out 34w when running full tilt. No doubt about it, cooler equipment is happier equipment so I guess its up to the owner on if they see it as a problem.

You have a player right on top?:eek:
It must just cook that baby. Which player are you burning up that you want to get rid of? All kidding aside, do you really? The shelf above my 705 is about 3 inches away and it gets HOT. I would hate to cook a DVD player at a closer range.

Hi everybody, hi there mrgribbles.. Wow I am gone for 2 days and now we have more new owners of the 705 and congrats everybody.

I found the problem about not having signal from my subwoofer, I apologized for everybody who tried to help me figuring it out. this is my 4th receiver so I know
connecting the subwoofer is not hard. The problem was I connected my subwoofer
into the 7.1 analog line in my reciever which should be connected to pre-out stu--d me.
and that is why everytime I run the audessey it would say no signal from subwoofer because it is connected to 7.1 analog.

Anyway I don't have any issue at all with my 705 so far I hope it stays like that.
Did any of you bought the extended warranty? is it worth it.

and to everybody I noticed that the neuralthx 7.1 can not be access with mch pcm 5.1
and DTS ES. with SD DVD it is no problem accept with dts es. Can anybody outline
the audio format that the neuralthx 7.1 can be access?

I played 2.0 movie last night just to test it out I access the nueralthx with no problem


And can everybody share their preference?
like for example if you have dolby digital plus from movie set up
I know that this would come out mch pcm 5.1 which DSP modes you prefer for the DDplus
so we have an idea which dsp is preferrable for dtshd hr, dd plus, thruhd and umcompressed 5.1 pcm

Thanks for sharing everyone...

Peter


Pages 67 through 70 of your user's manual show which input types that Neural THX 7.1 Surround can be used with.

Hi rutlian,

I did the exact same thing when I set up my 705 2 weeks ago. I eventually figured it out after reading the input diagram in the manual. It sure was frustrating.

Glad you were able to figure it out.

Cheers.

Hi everybody, hi there mrgribbles.. Wow I am gone for 2 days and now we have more new owners of the 705 and congrats everybody.

I found the problem about not having signal from my subwoofer, I apologized for everybody who tried to help me figuring it out. this is my 4th receiver so I know
connecting the subwoofer is not hard. The problem was I connected my subwoofer
into the 7.1 analog line in my reciever which should be connected to pre-out stu--d me.
and that is why everytime I run the audessey it would say no signal from subwoofer because it is connected to 7.1 analog.

Anyway I don't have any issue at all with my 705 so far I hope it stays like that.
Did any of you bought the extended warranty? is it worth it.

and to everybody I noticed that the neuralthx 7.1 can not be access with mch pcm 5.1
and DTS ES. with SD DVD it is no problem accept with dts es. Can anybody outline
the audio format that the neuralthx 7.1 can be access?

I played 2.0 movie last night just to test it out I access the nueralthx with no problem


And can everybody share their preference?
like for example if you have dolby digital plus from movie set up
I know that this would come out mch pcm 5.1 which DSP modes you prefer for the DDplus
so we have an idea which dsp is preferrable for dtshd hr, dd plus, thruhd and umcompressed 5.1 pcm

Thanks for sharing everyone...

Peter

So do you output through HDMI or Component?

I ONLY output video via HDMI to my Samsung 1080p LCD... I'm debating whether its worth getting a component cable to output from the 705 to the Samsung as well.

Does anyone know if I run my component in through a component out, will it pass through, or up-convert? I thought I read somewhere that it will up-convert, but only to the next level (480i -> 480p and/or 720i -> 720p and 1080 just passes through).

Anyone know?

Has anyone noticed that the receiver OSD only shows up when using component inputs? I don't see any of the 705 OSD when I'm using my HDMI input (DISH Network).

Has anyone noticed that the receiver OSD only shows up when using component inputs? I don't see any of the 705 OSD when I'm using my HDMI input (DISH Network).Yes. That's one of the few things I dislike about this receiver.

Hidden Menu.

Remember, you have to use the buttons on the AVR, not the remote. Press and hold "AUX" and while you're holding AUX, press standby (Power on/off).


more of a reminder of how to get to the hidden menu as i just spent a bit looking for it on this thread :)

I have LOVED this thread and my 705 so far. i just learned a ton of noob stuff tonight reading the explanations about crossover that jeremy posted. i had no idea.... anyway, thanks! need to go do some more tinkering.

unfortunately, i'm getting ready to try for my 3rd hdmi box for cable -1st one had picture go out every 15 secs or so, and second the dvr doesn't work, so will have to try a third this week.

I ONLY output video via HDMI to my Samsung 1080p LCD... I'm debating whether its worth getting a component cable to output from the 705 to the Samsung as well.

Does anyone know if I run my component in through a component out, will it pass through, or up-convert? I thought I read somewhere that it will up-convert, but only to the next level (480i -> 480p and/or 720i -> 720p and 1080 just passes through).

Anyone know?

Has anyone noticed that the receiver OSD only shows up when using component inputs? I don't see any of the 705 OSD when I'm using my HDMI input (DISH Network).

The rule of thumb on these badboys is: "What goes on in Vegas, stays in Vegas." If you go in and out the same, no upconversion. If you go up a notch, say component to HDMI or S-video t oHDMI then you get Faroudjaed.

In the same vein, if you are processing video via Dr Faroudja, you will get volume OSD, HDMI to HDMI - nope.

You have a player right on top?:eek:
It must just cook that baby. Which player are you burning up that you want to get rid of? All kidding aside, do you really? The shelf above my 705 is about 3 inches away and it gets HOT. I would hate to cook a DVD player at a closer range.

As I kinda implied, some sweat it (pun intended) some don't. I have no problems with the DVD player (should I add yet?). To me, 135F in one isolated spot on the chassis, isn't hot at all. My notebook will cook your heirlooms which is why I no longer refer to it as a laptop. I use a wide open TV stand so I don't have the problems others do in door'd racks and enclosures. If I was enclosed, the whole shebang would be forced ventilation.

Back in my salad years I built a lot of electronic goodies and starting with Heathkit amps and some from scratch, we were always modding these things to get 5 more watts of power (30w was a big number back then for home stereo). Talk about heat. Nothing like upping a vacuum tube or two. I swear you could get sunburned just listening to music.

As I try to point out, all should do what they feel comfortable with. I'm OK with my setup until I have reason not to be. Kinda like my take on HDMI cables, 1.2 vs 1.3 etc. They all will work unless they don't. Btw, thanks for your concern.

Hi, I've posted about this before but needed to research my speakers to get a more accurate portrayal of the problem.

In short, my top volume with the 705 is drastically lower when I'm using all of the speakers in my 7.1 system, whether it be through the Neural 7.1 or any other format, compared to using 5.1 speakers. It's not too quiet to hear, it just maxes out at average listening level, before it's loud enough for movies that want to played be loud. The problem happens through various sources (Dish (optical), HD-DVD (HDMI), etc.) I didn't have this problem on my previous receiver, a Yamaha rx-v2500.

I don't know if it's related to the Audyssey setup or not, so I'm including my setup and speaker specs... sorry, I'm a noob regarding the science of this:

Speakers:

Polk Audio RM7600 (front 5 speakers incl. center)
Overall freq. response 25Hz-28kHz
Lower-3db 28Hz
Upper-3db 23kHz
Nom. Impedance 8 ohms
Rec. Amp. 20-150 watts /ch
Efficiency89 db
Crossover2.5 kHz / 12db / octave

Renaissance Acoustic RW 6.5X (in-walls, back 2 speakers)
Overall freq. response 50Hz-20kHz
Lower+3db 20kHz
Upper+3db 50Hz
Nom. Impedance 8 ohms
Rec. Amp. 10-100 watts /ch
Efficiency90 db
Crossover24 db

Subwoofer: KLH ASW10-120B (I know, it's a not a great sub)
Frequency range: 30 to 40-180
120 watts, powered
Gain is set near minimum
Frequency is set around 75Hz

Here are the setting on the 705 that Audyssey picked, which sound great, although quiet:

2-1 Speaker Settings

6 ohms, normal

2-2 Speaker Config

Subwoofer: yes
Front: Full
Center: 80Hz
Surround: 80Hz
Surr Back: 90Hz
Surr Back Ch: 2ch
LPF or LFE: 80Hz
Double Bass: On

2-4 Level Calibration

Left -2
Center -5
Right -1
Surround Right -3
Surround Back Right -7
Surround Back Left -6
Surround Left -2
Sub +12

Sorry to throw all these specs at ya, but someone asked when I posted the issue previously. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Yep, specs help, but, check with Polk because you really should have the specs for each speaker not a "system" frequency response. Try to get frequency response, efficiency and ohms. Although I feel this is good gear, I have a problem with Polk, why do they hide the info, marketing?

I don't think your fronts would actually be full. But I think that Audyssey has a great deal of control over how it establishes FR. The bottom end of FR isn't a hard cut-off number, typically its rated at a 3dB difference in volume. Since, via equalization, Audyssey can boost the volume over any frequency, it may choose to do it, so your published FR curve gets a boost that raises the drop-off. At least I think so.

1st, turn Audyssey off (you can always turn it back on). Any difference?
2nd, leave Audyssey off, set all your speakers to 80, leave the LFE on the sub at 80. Any difference? If better, turn Audyssey back on. Any difference?
3rd, I may need hlep on this but I think you want to turn off the xover setting on the sub and let the 705 control it.

Are you maxed at volume? Don't forget max volume is +18 on the absolute scale, not 0. 0 is THX reference level, I think 75 (or is it 85?) dB.

I know this doesn't directly address the 5.1 vs 7.1 issue you're dealing with but lets do it one step at a time. (Actually I need more head scratch time :) )

Hi, I've posted about this before but needed to research my speakers to get a more accurate portrayal of the problem.

In short, my top volume with the 705 is drastically lower when I'm using all of the speakers in my 7.1 system, whether it be through the Neural 7.1 or any other format, compared to using 5.1 speakers. It's not too quiet to hear, it just maxes out at average listening level, before it's loud enough for movies that want to played be loud. The problem happens through various sources (Dish (optical), HD-DVD (HDMI), etc.) I didn't have this problem on my previous receiver, a Yamaha rx-v2500.

I don't know if it's related to the Audyssey setup or not, so I'm including my setup and speaker specs... sorry, I'm a noob regarding the science of this:

-- snip --

2-4 Level Calibration

Left -2
Center -5
Right -1
Surround Right -3
Surround Back Right -7
Surround Back Left -6
Surround Left -2
Sub +12

Sorry to throw all these specs at ya, but someone asked when I posted the issue previously. Any help would be greatly appreciated.Gday I am pretty much a noob with this stuff too, however i was having similar problems with my 705... I just got it this weekend (we only just got 705s shipment in australia last week). This is a great thread by the way, i have been reading it for the last few weeks once i decided i was getting a 705, and was waiting for them to be released here! So anyway, I have paired it with Accusound Theta TH100/300 (http://www.accusound.com.au/theta.html) (they are a local aussie made speaker). Previous to this we had a HTIB type thing, so this is our first "decent" setup. At the moment its connected to a sony CRT via component, but a 46" LCD or 50" Plasma is next in the list.

Im not running 7.1 like you, but i had similar disapointments over volume levels. I found myself needing to be higher up the volume knob than i expected, and our surround speakers which are quite close to the sides of the couch were too "noticable" in the soundstage. Movies sounded OK but i just didnt "feel" it when i tried to listen to some music (which had sounded great on these speakers in the store when demo'd, hooked up to a previous gen 604 onkyo). I really did expect a lot more :(

Tonight i got first chance since, to play more with it. I discovered that audyssey had set similar channel levels to yours... lowered them all across the board. It made a nice difference in my case to bring them back to 0db and work from there. I ended up with fronts and center 0db and surrounds still had -4 since they were bothering me and i wanted the soundstage to be brought forward.

You should also check out the speaker distances (measured from the speaker to you/the listener) and tweak them if you need to. My surrounds were set much farther away than they actually are, so i set them to .6m. The sub also was at 8m when it is right next to my L speaker, so more like 2m!

The other thing i found to make a big difference was under Equaliser Settings 2-5. I changed it from the equaliser Audyssey calculated, to None (flat response). Music sounds way beefier now, its really letting the speakers get more sound to do their thing with.

So yeah, im a pretty big noob as well, but that is what worked in my experience. My initial dissapointments turned out to be purely due to the Audssey calibration (id probably get better results if i re-ran it more than the first time)... but ive got it sounding how i wanted now without using audssey, and my initial dissapointments have been completely blown away by the awesomeness :) Not that i had much previously to compare to this though, so it was inevitable i would be .blown away (hence my initial dissapointments when i wasnt). Hopefully you are in a similar boat... give it a go with 0db levels and a flat EQ and reports back

Yep, specs help, but, check with Polk because you really should have the specs for each speaker not a "system" frequency response. Try to get frequency response, efficiency and ohms. Although I feel this is good gear, I have a problem with Polk, why do they hide the info, marketing?

I don't think your fronts would actually be full. But I think that Audyssey has a great deal of control over how it establishes FR. The bottom end of FR isn't a hard cut-off number, typically its rated at a 3dB difference in volume. Since, via equalization, Audyssey can boost the volume over any frequency, it may choose to do it, so your published FR curve gets a boost that raises the drop-off. At least I think so.

1st, turn Audyssey off (you can always turn it back on). Any difference?
2nd, leave Audyssey off, set all your speakers to 80, leave the LFE on the sub at 80. Any difference? If better, turn Audyssey back on. Any difference?
3rd, I may need hlep on this but I think you want to turn off the xover setting on the sub and let the 705 control it.

Are you maxed at volume? Don't forget max volume is +18 on the absolute scale, not 0. 0 is THX reference level, I think 75 (or is it 85?) dB.

I know this doesn't directly address the 5.1 vs 7.1 issue you're dealing with but lets do it one step at a time. (Actually I need more head scratch time :) )
Oh my god, how noob am I! the volume goes up to +18 ??? hehehe I thought that 0 was max, and due to my speakers still being run in, i didnt want to take it to what i thought was "max volume".

My long winded comments above, where i say i was too far up the volume knob, i was at -5 or so! if i can take it up to +18db then yeah, my problem was mostly the fact that i am a noob. This is the first receiver ive had that shows negative db levels. Wow. Shame its late now and i cant test out this new found power :eek: I should even try audssey again, now that i know i can run it up that high. I guess it pays to read even the "dumb" bits of the manual like how to control volume :p Thanks for clearing that up mrgribbles. Also thanks for all the information you've provided in this and the 605 thread (i too was originally looking at the 605 and am so glad to have decided to up it to the 705!). Its funny, my surname is gribble so i always noticed the your posts. I agree with what you said earlier, the 705 is the pick of the range for bang for buck and features, for the midrange buyer at least. The 3 HDMI, full pre-outs, learning remote, processing/matrixing and THX are certainly worth it over the 605, and IMO the 805 doesnt justify its price premium over the 705. Im sure however, if we could all afford an 875 or 905 we would take it though!

scarecrow420, welcome to the forum and thanks for the experience. South of the equator, do you have to switch polarity on the speakers? :)

Did you actually see the Audyssey equalizer settings?? I don't know how to do that, if you did, can you tell me how. Much appreciated.

scarecrow420, welcome to the forum and thanks for the experience. South of the equator, do you have to switch polarity on the speakers? :)

Did you actually see the Audyssey equalizer settings?? I don't know how to do that, if you did, can you tell me how. Much appreciated.

Are we talking Coriolis affect?:D

There's a selection (#5) for equalizer settings in the Speaker Setup menu on the 805/875, page 91. Might apply to the 705.

BTW: I built Heathkit amps (solid state) for my 4-channel set up in the late 60s. Fun winding those coils!

Hi, I've posted about this before but needed to research my speakers to get a more accurate portrayal of the problem.

In short, my top volume with the 705 is drastically lower when I'm using all of the speakers in my 7.1 system, whether it be through the Neural 7.1 or any other format, compared to using 5.1 speakers. It's not too quiet to hear, it just maxes out at average listening level, before it's loud enough for movies that want to played be loud. The problem happens through various sources (Dish (optical), HD-DVD (HDMI), etc.) I didn't have this problem on my previous receiver, a Yamaha rx-v2500.

I don't know if it's related to the Audyssey setup or not, so I'm including my setup and speaker specs... sorry, I'm a noob regarding the science of this:

-- snip --

Sorry to throw all these specs at ya, but someone asked when I posted the issue previously. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Gday I am pretty much a noob with this stuff too, however i was having similar problems with my 705... I just got it this weekend (we only just got 705s shipment in australia last week). This is a great thread by the way, i have been reading it for the last few weeks once i decided i was getting a 705, and was waiting for them to be released here! So anyway, I have paired it with Accusound Theta TH100/300 (http://www.accusound.com.au/theta.html) (they are a local aussie made speaker). Previous to this we had a HTIB type thing, so this is our first "decent" setup. At the moment its connected to a sony CRT via component, but a 46" LCD or 50" Plasma is next in the list.

Im not running 7.1 like you, but i had similar disapointments over volume levels. I found myself needing to be higher up the volume knob than i expected, and our surround speakers which are quite close to the sides of the couch were too "noticable" in the soundstage. Movies sounded OK but i just didnt "feel" it when i tried to listen to some music (which had sounded great on these speakers in the store when demo'd, hooked up to a previous gen 604 onkyo). I really did expect a lot more :(

Tonight i got first chance since, to play more with it. I discovered that audyssey had set similar channel levels to yours... lowered them all across the board. It made a nice difference in my case to bring them back to 0db and work from there. I ended up with fronts and center 0db and surrounds still had -4 since they were bothering me and i wanted the soundstage to be brought forward.

You should also check out the speaker distances (measured from the speaker to you/the listener) and tweak them if you need to. My surrounds were set much farther away than they actually are, so i set them to .6m. The sub also was at 8m when it is right next to my L speaker, so more like 2m!

The other thing i found to make a big difference was under Equaliser Settings 2-5. I changed it from the equaliser Audyssey calculated, to None (flat response). Music sounds way beefier now, its really letting the speakers get more sound to do their thing with.

So yeah, im a pretty big noob as well, but that is what worked in my experience. My initial dissapointments turned out to be purely due to the Audssey calibration (id probably get better results if i re-ran it more than the first time)... but ive got it sounding how i wanted now without using audssey, and my initial dissapointments have been completely blown away by the awesomeness :) Not that i had much previously to compare to this though, so it was inevitable i would be .blown away (hence my initial dissapointments when i wasnt). Hopefully you are in a similar boat... give it a go with 0db levels and a flat EQ and reports back

When I originally ran Audyssey, I had similar sounding results. I reran it with the mic at ear level on a tripod set in each seat, and in front of each seat and repeated twice. Then I used a sound level meter to adjust the speaker trims to 75dB with the volume control at 0dB, and set the sub to 81dB while aiming the mic at it (manual indicates the Audyssey sub setup might not work correctly... and it's correct, it didn't). Only one speaker, LR, had to be adjusted for distance. I have found that using Audyssey gives me much clearer center channel vocals while allowing great surround (5.1). Also, the LFE is the best I've ever had.

Ah, coriolis acceleration. One of my favorite cocktail party subjects, you remember the flush going clockwise, etc, etc. One of many lines that never worked for me.

That's the same as for the 705. You can see what you do in manual but I don't know how to see how Audyssey sets the frequencies. Unless I'm missing something??

Talkin about tube amps. We have a high current, high frequency (late 60's vintage) welder where I work, the tubes are 64,000 watt. In the amplifier section, no wire or cable, everything is big chunks of copper buss and the final current path is with heavy copper pipe with cooling water through it. Heavy man, heavy. Talk about a sunburn.

Ah, coriolis acceleration. One of my favorite cocktail party subjects, you remember the flush going clockwise, etc, etc. One of many lines that never worked for me.

That's the same as for the 705. You can see what you do in manual but I don't know how to see how Audyssey sets the frequencies. Unless I'm missing something??

Talkin about tube amps. We have a high current, high frequency (late 60's vintage) welder where I work, the tubes are 64,000 watt. In the amplifier section, no wire or cable, everything is big chunks of copper buss and the final current path is with heavy copper pipe with cooling water through it. Heavy man, heavy. Talk about a sunburn.Yes it seems there is no way to see exactly what Audyssey has set for the EQ on each speaker... Would be good if you could have a custom equaliser that starts from the audyssey values, maybe by pressing an edit button when it show audyssey or something. I mean you can edit channel levels, speaker distances etc. after audyssey has set them, so why not EQ!

Its 1am here, so I cant try my new found +18db capability until tomorrow but im looking forward to it!

grubavs, thanks for the info RE tripod for audyssey mic, and using SPL meter to set reference etc. A bit too hardcore for me at this stage but its something to work towards :) I do admit, i used a vacuum cleaner tube for my tripod so errm yeah, did i say that out loud :p I told you i was a noob

you know the big difficulty i am having is that unlike audioning speakers in a shop with a switch box that changes instantaneously, where you can easily hear the differences between dfferent sets of speakers, going into the setup menus cuts the sound, and even changing between listening modes takes a decent chunk of time. im finding it hard to compare how one listening mode sounds to another... sort of like ive "forgotten" how the last one sounded by the time the next one kicks in, not to mention the song has now progressed as well. Does anyone have tips/advice on the best way to make changes and listen for the differences? Do you listen to an entire song you know very well, or do you repeat sections as you switch? Or am i just not cut out for audiophiledom :eek:

Id also like to know what listening modes people like for music? to my ears the all stereo sounds the best. I dont seem to like any of the other music ones like dolby music or DTS music. Pure Audio is good too obviously, when you just want the raw sound with no processing

Its funny though, for some reason the mrs doesnt find it as entertaining or enjoyable, when i constantly mess with the audio settings :p

Thank you scarecrow and mr. gribbles, I'll try those things tonight!

I'll dig in to find out the exact specs on each speaker for the Polks... the distances that Audyssey detected were dead-on, so I don't suspect those.

My first post in this thread - thanks for all the info! I was dead set on a Denon receiver to replace my old HK. But when I saw the prices and features of the 705 I had to jump in. So I got the 705 a couple weeks ago through the CC online deal. With tax (free shipping) I paid $705 (ironic, huh?). But now I'm thinking I may order from Vann's and return this one. Would save my $75. Just wondering if it's worth that to be able to walk it back to the CC down the street if anything goes wrong... Kind of a nice convenience.
Eddie

I purchased my 705 online on the Friday before the one day price drop to $549, but did get the discounted price of 719-50=669 plus California tax. But I left the box unopened since I was waiting for my speakers, and the possibility of a price reduction within 30 days. Once I saw the Vann's price of $629, I marched back into the local CC with a printout of that price in hand. I told customer service rep that I ought to be entitled to the one day price I had missed, because it occurred after my order, but prior to my pickup. The rep could not find any record of that $549 (plus tax) price drop. So I showed her the Vann's price. She initially said they could not match this online price. I told her in that case I would be returning my unit that I had right there in the unopened box. She then spoke to her supervisor and said she was wrong, they could match the Vann's price, but I would still have to pay the tax. I again balked, and she finally said that the lowest her computer would allow her to go was $637.19, this including tax (589.99+47.20). So, realizing this was only $12 more than Vann's (and less than Crutchfield's), and considering the value of buying from a local store, I closed the deal and received an $86 credit. I hope this helps those of you who are in similar situations. If you hold your ground and they believe you will return your unit, there can be a nice refund as a reward, and I will spend mine on the DS-A2X ipod dock.

Bob

Has anyone noticed that the receiver OSD only shows up when using component inputs? I don't see any of the 705 OSD when I'm using my HDMI input (DISH Network).
Wait, are you saying that I won't be able to see the OSD if all of my inputs are HDMI? I'll need to have at least one Component (will other inputs work?) input to be able to set this up? I plan on setting mine up in the next week or so...

According to the manual I should be able to see the OSD regardless of the input:
If you connect your TV to the HDMI OUT, set the HDMI Monitor setting to Yes so that the onscreen setup menus are displayed and composite video, S-Video, and component video sources are upconverted* and output by the HDMI OUT. The onscreen setup menus are displayed on the HDMI OUT only.
Am I missing something?

I closed the deal and received an $86 credit. I hope this helps those of you who are in similar situations. If you hold your ground and they believe you will return your unit, there can be a nice refund as a reward, and I will spend mine on the DS-A2X ipod dock.
Thanks Bob! I'm heading to CC after work to give this a shot...

you know the big difficulty i am having is that unlike audioning speakers in a shop with a switch box that changes instantaneously, where you can easily hear the differences between dfferent sets of speakers, going into the setup menus cuts the sound, and even changing between listening modes takes a decent chunk of time. im finding it hard to compare how one listening mode sounds to another... sort of like ive "forgotten" how the last one sounded by the time the next one kicks in, not to mention the song has now progressed as well. Does anyone have tips/advice on the best way to make changes and listen for the differences? Do you listen to an entire song you know very well, or do you repeat sections as you switch? Or am i just not cut out for audiophiledom :eek:

I would not call myself an audiophile simply from my unwillingness to spend 20k per component in my home theater. However, I like to think of myself as an avid audio hobbyist, musician and person who cant bare to deal with the deafening silence of no music playing. (during waking hours) :)

To address your problem:
Just like testing the performance of anything in life you need to become a critical judge of your subject. You need to listen in very closely to key elements and separate those performances the best you can in order to judge them fairly.

Examples of how you might judge music:
The transient pluck of a guitar string (focus on it and close out all other elements of the music mentally) the thump of the bass drum from the drummer.. the clarity and crispness of a drummers cymbal... human breath against the reed of a woodwind instrument... the timbre of brass instrument. You need to lock in on each element.. and judge it for quality not necessarily imprint a photographic audio file in your brain (once you practice this technique enough you are able to do that to an extent)... However, just give it a simple 1-10 rating on each category you deem important (practice this at home before you go to the store if need be).

Mastering a critical listening ear is very much a kin to becoming a Master wine taste tester. You can learn the criteria on which to judge wine in a day, but it takes practice to judge with an accurate taste and be able to test several in a row and remember which of the series is better.

In home theater settings (non music) you will be judging much of the same things you did for music. However perhaps a few more criteria; the surround effect, the depth of the sound stage, the imaging/quality of separation. However, you want to break it down make a list of whats important inside your mind logically and judge it on those categories.

Audio quality is subjective some people like different tones. However, I think you will find most human beings overall are very close on there tastes (visually, audio, flavor, touch, smell) Of course what applies to "most" people does not apply to all.

PS: Last tip: this is obvious but be sure you listen to the same musical passage and same movie when you do these tests on different setups or it will become very hard to judge the nuances of the equipment since music/movies are mastered many different ways.

PPS: Sometimes when you judge the best equipment against the best equipment; It will be very hard to the untrained ear to perceive much difference. Instead of listening to the larger details, you need to listen to the finest details to differentiate which is better. Harmonics, Transients, Timbre, etc. These kinds of things can help you differentiate what kind of instrument is playing. Some equipment will be more telling of that information then others.

Also when you are trying to judge at that highest caliber you need reference quality equipment and the best mastered audio tracks as your source. This will help you isolate certain negative factors that make judging, just the speakers or just the amplifier, harder. Its great to be able to isolate down to that level if you can but most times you demo in a store you wont get all these options. So make due! If you are trying to spend a ton of cash and are serious about being an audiophile I would look into being as critical with your purchases as you can. For the money you spend you want 100% confidence it was a brilliant purchase and the best experience you can be having for the money.

Wait, are you saying that I won't be able to see the OSD if all of my inputs are HDMI? I'll need to have at least one Component (will other inputs work?) input to be able to set this up? I plan on setting mine up in the next week or so...
there is a setting HDMI monitor out which will show the main setup menus on HDMI, and will also upscale all lower inputs (composite, svideo, component) to HDMI, so you wont be in strife. I think the problem may be where you have some devices via component and some via HDMI, and tv connected via both. Assumedly you will only get the setup menus on one or the other depending on HDMI monitor out setting?

Reading the manual apparently there is also an actual OSD for when you change volume etc, controlled by the "immediate display" setting, but then it goes on to say that it wont show if you are using component or HDMI. So its good over svideo or composite only? why bother?!

I would not call myself an audiophile simply from my unwillingness to spend 20k per component in my home theater. However, I like to think of myself as an avid audio hobbyist, musician and person who cant bare to deal with the deafening silence of no music playing. (during waking hours) :)

To address your problem:
Just like testing the performance of anything in life you need to become a critical judge of your subject. You need to listen in very closely to key elements and separate those performance the best you can in order to judge them fairly. Examples of how you might judge music: The pluck of a guitar string (focus on it and close out all other elements of the music mentally) the thump of the bass drum from the drummer (same thing) the tone and breath of a woodwind/brass instrument. You need to lock in on each element.. and judge it for quality not neccesarily imprint a photographic audio file in your brain (once you practice this technique enough you are able to do that to an extent)... However, just give it a simple 1-10 rating on each category you deem important (practice this at home before you go to the store if need be). Mastering a critical listening ear is very much a kin to becoming a Master wine taste tester. You can learn the criteria on which to judge wine in a day, but it takes practice to judge with an accurate taste and be able to test several in a row and remember which of the series is better.

In home theater settings (non music) you will be judging much of the same things you did for music. However perhaps a few more criteria; the surround effect, the depth of the sound stage, the imaging/quality of separation. However, you want to break it down make a list of whats important inside your mind logically and judge it on those categories.

Audio quality is subjective some people like different tones. However, I think you will find most human beings overall are very close on there tastes (visually, audio, flavor, touch, smell) Of course what applies to "most" people does not apply to all.

PS: Last tip: this is obvious but be sure you listen to the same musical passage and same movie when you do these tests on different setups or it will become very hard to judge the nuances of the equipment since music/movies are mastered many different ways.Thanks for the tips. I dont so much want to compare vairous setups out in the wild now, i simply want to assess the different listening modes available to me through this receiver, and its annoying that it is quite slow to instigate the settings changes. But I understand it takes time and the wine tasting is a good analogy.

So just to be specific, when you say to focus on the individual isntruments id still like to know whether you will replay a smaller portion over and over again changing setting each time and just listening to that drum, or whether you will listen to a minute or more, alternating your attention between the drum, bass pick, wind instruments etc as it plays, then change a setting and repeat the longer passage

Wait, are you saying that I won't be able to see the OSD if all of my inputs are HDMI? I'll need to have at least one Component (will other inputs work?) input to be able to set this up? I plan on setting mine up in the next week or so...

According to the manual I should be able to see the OSD regardless of the input:

Am I missing something?

The OSD setup menu is fully functional in HDMI in & out mode. When most people refer to OSD not available over HDMI they mean the volume and process mode overlay that will show up if you go component in & HDMI out. This is just a simple volume bar with hashmarks. Really no biggee IMO.

Good job rbulwa. I had to go after them for my 10% off that was promised in an email from them but not automatically discounted. 2 days of hilarity, but when I finally got them to kick it in I could feel the warm blood running off my chin. Harrrooooooo

...

That's the same as for the 705. You can see what you do in manual but I don't know how to see how Audyssey sets the frequencies. Unless I'm missing something??

Talkin about tube amps. We have a high current, high frequency (late 60's vintage) welder where I work, the tubes are 64,000 watt. In the amplifier section, no wire or cable, everything is big chunks of copper buss and the final current path is with heavy copper pipe with cooling water through it. Heavy man, heavy. Talk about a sunburn.

Nope, didn't understand your question. I have not found any graphical representation (or chart for that matter) of current frequency settings.:(

Thanks for the tips. I dont so much want to compare vairous setups out in the wild now, i simply want to assess the different listening modes available to me through this receiver, and its annoying that it is quite slow to instigate the settings changes. But I understand it takes time and the wine tasting is a good analogy.

So just to be specific, when you say to focus on the individual isntruments id still like to know whether you will replay a smaller portion over and over again changing setting each time and just listening to that drum, or whether you will listen to a minute or more, alternating your attention between the drum, bass pick, wind instruments etc as it plays, then change a setting and repeat the longer passage

My advice, since you are doing this at home, get a peice of paper out and make a lil table with several listening modes as columns and criteria to judge them on in the rows.

Find a passage of music and or portion of a movie that best isolates each of these criteria (isolation can be helpful) if you are lucky enough to find isolated tests on any of your media.

Write down a grade 1 to 10 of how it sounds. Your 1st round of scores will probably be way off (possibly). By next round when u see your previous test you gave something an 8 out of 10... you may be able to hear if it sounds better or worse then that grade.

I know making a chart is as lame as it gets, but if you are serious about finding the perfect listening modes for your own equipment it may help to be ultra logical and methodical about all this.

This chart will also save you the headache of changing your settings 8000 times. Fill in all your scores with 1 setting... then move and and do the same for the next setting. This will save your sanity.

My guess is you will mis judge everything 1st few tries... so you may end up repeating 1st few steps when you are done. By time you are done this exercise I will make a bet you will start to become a pro on what you are listening for. Just takes practice.

woots, what a great write up. Running a repeating track and comparing modes is the only way to fly. Dontcha just love a-b repeat on the player? My favorite is the opening track in Kill Bill vol 1, "Bang Bang". I think the bass guitar will test any mains/sub setup out there, the vocal is detailed enough to get your mid range comparisons and there is enough fret squeak and lip smackin' to see if your tweeter works. Hell, I can't hear much above 6khz anyhow so this track is great for me.

scarecrow420, the DSPs really react quite differently, I feel, on a per track basis. For most material, DD PLIIx does a fine job, for Kill Bill (opening track) Pure is unreal. The THX modes are good, but they do tend to kill the edges of the sound a bit, shave off the rough stuff which works well for action intensive flics but softens up musical scores a tad too much. Neural is interesting. Not better, worse, just interesting. probably the most manipulative of the processors out there. I'd love to hear something that was encoded in neural. Anyone know of something in neural?

Now quit the screwin around. Pack up the Mrs. and the little nose miners. Send em off to Grandma for a week or two. Put on the sweats. Order the pizza, pop open the Fosters', unplug the phone, tell the boss you'll show up when good and ready, get out the disks, turn (it) on, tune in, til you drop out. Keep us posted.

Yep, specs help, but, check with Polk because you really should have the specs for each speaker not a "system" frequency response. Try to get frequency response, efficiency and ohms. Although I feel this is good gear, I have a problem with Polk, why do they hide the info, marketing?

I don't think your fronts would actually be full. But I think that Audyssey has a great deal of control over how it establishes FR. The bottom end of FR isn't a hard cut-off number, typically its rated at a 3dB difference in volume. Since, via equalization, Audyssey can boost the volume over any frequency, it may choose to do it, so your published FR curve gets a boost that raises the drop-off. At least I think so.

1st, turn Audyssey off (you can always turn it back on). Any difference?
2nd, leave Audyssey off, set all your speakers to 80, leave the LFE on the sub at 80. Any difference? If better, turn Audyssey back on. Any difference?
3rd, I may need hlep on this but I think you want to turn off the xover setting on the sub and let the 705 control it.

Are you maxed at volume? Don't forget max volume is +18 on the absolute scale, not 0. 0 is THX reference level, I think 75 (or is it 85?) dB.

I know this doesn't directly address the 5.1 vs 7.1 issue you're dealing with but lets do it one step at a time. (Actually I need more head scratch time :) )

I am wondering the same thing this is the numbers when I run the auto set up with audessey:

My speakers 5.1 speakers is POLK AUDIO RM7500
My backsorround is Cambridge soundworks (bipole/dipole)
Subwoofer is 120 watts - infinity

and this is the number of the audessey:
subwoofer - yes
Fronts - fullband
Center - fullband
sorrounds - 40 hz
back sorrounds - 150 hz
LFE 80 thx

It sounds great but I am worried about the fronts because I know they are not fullband speakers I have polk audio confirmed that to me the other day.
And I tried to put it back on 80hz (fronts only) and the sounds difference is not much but the audessey sound is much better. So what I did is I reset the front speakers to 80hz and left my other channels with audessey set up. I don't know if that is ok or should I leave every channels to 80hz

Thanks,
Peter

You should also check out the speaker distances (measured from the speaker to you/the listener) and tweak them if you need to. My surrounds were set much farther away than they actually are, so i set them to .6m. The sub also was at 8m when it is right next to my L speaker, so more like 2m!

The other thing i found to make a big difference was under Equaliser Settings 2-5. I changed it from the equaliser Audyssey calculated, to None (flat response). Music sounds way beefier now, its really letting the speakers get more sound to do their thing with.

So yeah, im a pretty big noob as well, but that is what worked in my experience. My initial dissapointments turned out to be purely due to the Audssey calibration (id probably get better results if i re-ran it more than the first time)... but ive got it sounding how i wanted now without using audssey, and my initial dissapointments have been completely blown away by the awesomeness Not that i had much previously to compare to this though, so it was inevitable i would be .blown away (hence my initial dissapointments when i wasnt). Hopefully you are in a similar boat... give it a go with 0db levels and a flat EQ and reports back


Hi there mate :D,

Thanks for sharing I will try this tonight.

Peter

Hi everybody......................

when applying or setting the audessey what volume level you should be when setting audessey up....I am also pretty much noobie on this, this is my first receiver with auto mic audessey set up. I don't know if having a certain level of the volume matters when setting the audessey..

Thanks,
Peter

Hi everybody......................

when applying or setting the audessey what volume level you should be when setting audessey up....I am also pretty much noobie on this, this is my first receiver with auto mic audessey set up. I don't know if having a certain level of the volume matters when setting the audessey..

Thanks,
Peter

Audyssey takes care of that for you. Just leave it at what you use and it will do its own thing.

Personally, I'm a bit of maverick in this A/V stuff so if I break it I buy it. I have no problem at all running speakers a bit out of their intended range. distortion is the boundary, if iget it, I'll back off. Audyssey detected my fronts as full range as well as my surrounds, so OK. I'll try it. So far I like it. I haven't noticed any blending problems with the sub and so far no detectable distortion or clipping. Do I recommend you keep yours at full range? Never. Its not my gear. TBS, unless you really crank it up, I don't think you'll hurt your speakers. it really takes a lot to warp a coil.

You can seldom go wrong with good matched speakers setting them to THX 80. Everything in your system is kinda tuned into that scenario, and your speakers will likely work very well with those restraints, plus sound tracks are often engineered with this in mind. After getting into the THD material, I'm looking forward to full band all around, what a rush.

Audyssey takes care of that for you. Just leave it at what you use and it will do its own thing.

Personally, I'm a bit of maverick in this A/V stuff so if I break it I buy it. I have no problem at all running speakers a bit out of their intended range. distortion is the boundary, if iget it, I'll back off. Audyssey detected my fronts as full range as well as my surrounds, so OK. I'll try it. So far I like it. I haven't noticed any blending problems with the sub and so far no detectable distortion or clipping. Do I recommend you keep yours at full range? Never. Its not my gear. TBS, unless you really crank it up, I don't think you'll hurt your speakers. it really takes a lot to warp a coil.

You can seldom go wrong with good matched speakers setting them to THX 80. Everything in your system is kinda tuned into that scenario, and your speakers will likely work very well with those restraints, plus sound tracks are often engineered with this in mind. After getting into the THD material, I'm looking forward to full band all around, what a rush.

thanks mrgribbles I will keep it then with audessey setup, so far there are no distortion I am kind of just worried about my speakers not being fullband but you are right if I get any distortion I will back off also, as always thank you very much.

Peter

woots, what a great write up. Running a repeating track and comparing modes is the only way to fly. Dontcha just love a-b repeat on the player? My favorite is the opening track in Kill Bill vol 1, "Bang Bang". I think the bass guitar will test any mains/sub setup out there, the vocal is detailed enough to get your mid range comparisons and there is enough fret squeak and lip smackin' to see if your tweeter works. Hell, I can't hear much above 6khz anyhow so this track is great for me.

Mrgribbles:
Agreed, a-b repeat can save a lot of headache on a testing process. :)

Scarecrow420:
Good luck with the testing, Lemme know how it all works out if you ever find time/energy to go through the tests!

My Onkyo 705 should be here on 30th.
I'll be connecting a Samsung HLT-6187S TV and OPPO DV-980H DVD player, both via HDMI cables.
From the OPPO DV-980H instruction manual:

"NOTE
HDMI is a wonderful thing. A single cable can transport both audio AND video from your DVD
player to your display. Be aware, however, that HDMI is an evolving standard, and there
could be compatibility issues. The OPPO DV-980H supports HDMI v1.1 and v1.2a audio. A
receiver that supports HDMI v1.1 is required in order to play multi-channel audio for all
formats, including DVD-Video/Audio and SACD (SACD DSD audio converted to multichannel
PCM). A receiver that supports HDMI v1.2a with DSD over HDMI is required in
order to natively play SACD DSD audio without conversion. If the receiver supports HDMI
1.0 only, DVD-Audio and SACD will NOT be able to be sent via HDMI. To utilize DVD-Audio
or SACD, please see next section for multi-channel analogue audio connection."

My question is : Does the Onkyo 705 receiver support HDMI v1.2a with Multi-Channel PCM audio and DSD ..........or..............
HDMI v1.1 Multi-Channel PCM audio, most likely it also support DTS
and/or Dolby Digital decoding?

The OPPO DV-980H needs to be configured for SACD output to be either "DSD" or "PCM" Which do I choose?

HDMI is supposed to be backward compatible. The 705 is HDMI 1.3. The problem is that its a gamble as to whether or not your gear will play nice together. No guarantees.

Is the Video upconversion pretty good on the 705? (svideo, component, composite). Or are there better receivers (Denon?) in the same price range that are better? Trying to make a decision this week and the 705 is the top of my list.

Im not running 7.1 like you, but i had similar disapointments over volume levels. I found myself needing to be higher up the volume knob than i expected, and our surround speakers which are quite close to the sides of the couch were too "noticable" in the soundstage. Movies sounded OK but i just didnt "feel" it when i tried to listen to some music (which had sounded great on these speakers in the store when demo'd, hooked up to a previous gen 604 onkyo). I really did expect a lot more :(

Tonight i got first chance since, to play more with it. I discovered that audyssey had set similar channel levels to yours... lowered them all across the board. It made a nice difference in my case to bring them back to 0db and work from there. I ended up with fronts and center 0db and surrounds still had -4 since they were bothering me and i wanted the soundstage to be brought forward.

You should also check out the speaker distances (measured from the speaker to you/the listener) and tweak them if you need to. My surrounds were set much farther away than they actually are, so i set them to .6m. The sub also was at 8m when it is right next to my L speaker, so more like 2m!

The other thing i found to make a big difference was under Equaliser Settings 2-5. I changed it from the equaliser Audyssey calculated, to None (flat response). Music sounds way beefier now, its really letting the speakers get more sound to do their thing with.

So yeah, im a pretty big noob as well, but that is what worked in my experience. My initial dissapointments turned out to be purely due to the Audssey calibration (id probably get better results if i re-ran it more than the first time)... but ive got it sounding how i wanted now without using audssey, and my initial dissapointments have been completely blown away by the awesomeness :) Not that i had much previously to compare to this though, so it was inevitable i would be .blown away (hence my initial dissapointments when i wasnt). Hopefully you are in a similar boat... give it a go with 0db levels and a flat EQ and reports back

Ah - someone else here who has had same experience as me!

I see people go on and on about how great Audyssey is, and I wonder am I deaf or just musically illiterate (which I am - he he). But the bottomline is, I did NOT like Audyssey results. I ended up taking up my own measurements of distances from speaker, upped the speaker levels and made the equalizer flat, and the sound was MUCH better. Had the same experience with my last receiver (674), and I ended up tuning the levels using a SPL meter and that delivered much better results. I still need to do that for the 705, but I am convinced that Audyssey is not for me.

Of course, I usually sit in one place only, and Audyssey is known to tweak settings so you can hear better in all measured positions rather than best in one and horrible in others. But in any case, I prefer my SPL meter settings any day over the Audyssey.

i was just wondering about fine tuning with spl after audussy set up. has anyone else tried this, and do you recommend it. ive never used spl before, but i could learn.

i was just wondering about fine tuning with spl after audussy set up. has anyone else tried this, and do you recommend it. ive never used spl before, but i could learn.

I have done this calibration 3 times now just experimenting. Each time I tested how it sounds with audio calibrate vs my tweaks on the auto calibrate afterward.

I leave alone speaker distance and leave it to what the auto calibrate does on its own... Except for subwoofer, it always miscalculates sub distance. The speakers it does close to perfect.

I completely leave alone the EQ tweaks with the Audyssey. Would be nice to get into those calibrated Audyssey options and tweak that too, but I cant find any obvious way to do that.

The things I change most are the frequency crossovers and the levels.

The levels I mostly keep where they are by default. What I normally do is crank up my subwoofer 4 db more so its louder and I turn down my center channel a couple db (cause its very annoying getting more volume from my center then every other speaker in the room.)

The cross frequencies are the ones that always confuse me as to what auto calibration was even thinking!

It turns up my surrounds to way higher frequency cutoffs then I want.
However, it does tend to add a nice effect keeping these auto crossover settings as is. I know the hidden Audyssey EQ and Freq crossovers both set by auto calibrate, most likely play very close to each other and compliment the settings. But, I dont care! :D
I tweak them around to taste. I normally lower the crossover point for the front left and right channels mostly. The sides and rear surrounds I lower just slightly to taste.

Anyway... Yes i do tweak after auto calibrate... and yes I like the effect of doing both vs just one or the other.

Tip: Write down all the settings 1st time you go to tweak the settings. There is no way to reload the last auto calibrated settings after you tweak them.

I leave alone speaker distance and leave it to what the auto calibrate does on its own... Except for subwoofer, it always miscalculates sub distance. The speakers it does close to perfect.

Okay, here's the thing about that... Physical distance with a subwoofer can be RADICALLY different than acoustic distance or the best possible setting. There are many reasons for this. For instance, the filter controls in some subwoofers' amp sections can introduce delay, meaning the best setting for the subwoofer (i.e. that which gives the best response across the crossover range) can often be several feet beyond the actual distance of the subwoofer to your listening position. If your subwoofer has a built-in filter and you have the option to disable it, do so before running the Audyssey setup. Alternately, turn the filter to its highest setting. For example, if you have a knob on your sub that goes from 40-200Hz, set it up to 200Hz (since this should introduce the least delay). The filter on the 705's LFE channel should be sufficient to limit subwoofer response.

Another thing that can cause a difference in distance settings is subwoofer phase. Because of the way low frequencies interact with your room, your subwoofer can be out of phase with your mains even if they are at the same physical distance. The sub delay on your AVR can basically act like a variable phase control. Again, this means that if your subwoofer is say 90 degrees out of phase due to room acoustics, the proper setting for the subwoofer may be several feet different than physical distance, since that essentially gets the sub and speakers in phase at your listening position.

So while I understand the inherent logic of setting a sub to its physical distance, the Audyssey system does a very precise analysis of proper delay/phase for the subwoofer. Setting the sub to its actual physical distance, while it may seem like the right thing to do, may create frequency cancellation in the crossover range due to altered phase. Also, altering the detected subwoofer distance can essentially bork the Audyssey equalization, since the EQ'ing is done in the time domain and is dependant upon the initial detected distance/delay to bring low frequencies into alignment.

If you're curious about how this affects subwoofer response, try the following: Burn yourself a stereo CD of 1/3 octave tones from 20-120Hz. Then play those tones on your system as detected by Audyssey while recording each tone's level on a SPL meter. Then re-run those same tones with the sub set to its physical distance. You'll be surprised by how much of an effect the distance setting has, usually near where you have the speakers themselves crossed over.

In short, I recommend leaving the subwoofer distance as detected by Audyssey. It takes far more into account than just physical distance.

i was just wondering about fine tuning with spl after audussy set up. has anyone else tried this, and do you recommend it. ive never used spl before, but i could learn.

I changed all my speakers to 80Hz crossover after the Audyssey calibration, because they detected as full range. In fact, pretty much any speaker that has solid response down to 50Hz may detect as full range on the Onkyos, even if it's a bookshelf speaker. I also double-checked speaker levels with my SPL meter, but I found them all to be dead on.

A few general caveats about Audyssey:
1) The microphone should be pointed straight up toward the ceiling, placed at ear level in your seating position. The mics are calibrated for grazing incidence, so you do not need to angle the mic or direct it at each speaker during calibration.

2) Go buy a cheap tripod. Sitting in the room holding the microphone can have detrimental effects with the equalization for several reasons (i.e. reflections off your body, low frequency noise caused by holding the mic, higher initial ambient noise level caused by being close to the mic and breathing, etc.) I have a cheap mini-tripod that I used to put the mic in each position, then I stepped out of the room before hitting NEXT and letting it do its thing.

3) When placing the mic in your seat, try to place it so that sound isn't reflecting off of the headrest of the seat. Place the mic slightly above headrest level, but as close to seated ear level as possible.

4) Most people do not initially like a flat calibrated response with their subwoofer, primarily because they are accustomed to overcranked bass. Also, you become accustomed to the previous sound of your system. I strongly recommend that you give yourself a few days to acclimate to the calibrated settings before disabling Audyssey. You may find that you begin to notice musical detail that was previously obscured. Not that I'm ruling out personal preference, because that is key to enjoying your home theater and is definitely your prerogative... but I do recommend that you give yourself a few days of critical listening before making a final judgment.

5) If you like the Audyssey calibration for movies but feel that music is a bit light on bass, use the tone controls. The bass tone control is centered at 50Hz and will let you boost a bit without erasing the initial calibrated curve.

6) There is a rolloff of highs with Audyssey on the Onkyos, primarily in the range that most affects reflections. Those who have done a lot of room treatment to tame reflections may not like the effect this has. Worse, enabling THX modes or RE-EQ further exacerbates the high frequency rolloff. Sadly, while other brand receivers with Audyssey MultEQ XT give you the option to select a flat target curve over the rolled-off Audyssey curve (or even a curve to match your other speakers to your front main speakers), the Onkyos don't give you the option. That is probably my biggest complaint with the 705, though it is a very minor one for me since I quite enjoy the effect it has in my room. YMMV.

In short, I recommend leaving the subwoofer distance as detected by Audyssey. It takes far more into account than just physical distance.

Thx for your insight on sub distance Jeremy. I didn't realize messing with the sub distance would have such a drastic effect. My sub does have phase inversion. I may flip the switch and give Audyessy yet another go.

I cant mess up my "thump" or I will get all grumpy! :D

What video processor does the 705 have?

Thx for your insight on sub distance Jeremy. I didn't realize messing with the sub distance would have such a drastic effect. My sub does have phase inversion. I may flip the switch and give Audyessy yet another go.

I cant mess up my "thump" or I will get all grumpy! :D

If you want to get really anal, do this: Turn Audyssey off, set all speakers to 80Hz, LFE cutoff to 120Hz, speakers and sub to their physical distances. Then burn a CD with an 80Hz tone (do a search on tone generators here if you need help). In stereo mode (so the tone plays through your mains and sub), play the tone, then flip the phase switch on your sub and play it again. Usually, the louder of the two is the best starting point. If you're not quite that anal, do the above and play some music, flipping the switch to find the position where bass sounds notably louder.

After you've done all that, re-run Audyssey (especially if you end up using the reversed phase setting). Having the subwoofer phase as close as possible pre-calibration will mean that Audyssey doesn't have to adjust subwoofer distance as much to line up phase. It also means it will have to do less work EQ'ing the lower frequencies, since you've given it a better starting point.

on pg. 81 of manual, adv. set-up. it says test tone is 0db absolute volume 82. does that mean 82 db.? if so should i adjust levels for speakers to 82db. using spl, and test tones?

Hey All.

Just got my 705 today. Couple of questions if you don't mind. I have my DVD player via HDMI to the 705 and the 705 via HDMI to TV. Everything is perfect with that connection.

Now, I have my cable box... SA 8300HD... hooked up via the component cable they gave to the 705 (they have an HDMI port but say they don't support it), with again the 705 to the TV via HDMI. I get a picture, but I don't get a sound. I did double check my connections so now I am thinking there is a setting I am missing somewhere. Any ideas? Thanks.

Justin

PS I will add this... when I connected the cable box directly to the TV via component, the picture was pink and fuzzy. I double checked the connections and then connected it to another TV, same thing. I was quite surprised to get a good picture via component through the 705. So, perhaps the box or cable is at fault, but wanted to check to see if there is a setting I am missing somewhere.

When you say you have it connected through component, how are you connecting the audio? If your cable box has optical or coax SPDIF I would use that, otherwise you still need to connect the L/R audio to the 705

Remember HDMI = Audio + Video, Component = Video Only. Along with component you should have L/R audio from the box at a minimum.

When you say you have it connected through component, how are you connecting the audio? If your cable box has optical or coax SPDIF I would use that, otherwise you still need to connect the L/R audio to the 705

Remember HDMI = Audio + Video, Component = Video Only. Along with component you should have L/R audio from the box at a minimum.

Yes I just figured that out. LOL I have the L/R audio connected to the 705 and was assuming it would pass it via HDMI to the TV. WRONG! LOL :) I am new at this and learning but that was pretty dumb. Thanks for your time.

Justin

on pg. 81 of manual, adv. set-up. it says test tone is 0db absolute volume 82. does that mean 82 db.? if so should i adjust levels for speakers to 82db. using spl, and test tones?

No. With the 705, you can choose to have volume represented either as a "-10" type readout (which is supposed to mean 10dB under reference) or as a basic numeric readout (i.e. 0-99). All that part you're reading says is that 0dB (reference level) translates to 82 if you're using absolute volume instead.

Hi where would you be picking up these 705's you speak of? I am ready to pull the trigger

Yep, specs help, but, check with Polk because you really should have the specs for each speaker not a "system" frequency response. Try to get frequency response, efficiency and ohms. Although I feel this is good gear, I have a problem with Polk, why do they hide the info, marketing?

I don't think your fronts would actually be full. But I think that Audyssey has a great deal of control over how it establishes FR. The bottom end of FR isn't a hard cut-off number, typically its rated at a 3dB difference in volume. Since, via equalization, Audyssey can boost the volume over any frequency, it may choose to do it, so your published FR curve gets a boost that raises the drop-off. At least I think so.

1st, turn Audyssey off (you can always turn it back on). Any difference?
2nd, leave Audyssey off, set all your speakers to 80, leave the LFE on the sub at 80. Any difference? If better, turn Audyssey back on. Any difference?
3rd, I may need hlep on this but I think you want to turn off the xover setting on the sub and let the 705 control it.

Are you maxed at volume? Don't forget max volume is +18 on the absolute scale, not 0. 0 is THX reference level, I think 75 (or is it 85?) dB.

I know this doesn't directly address the 5.1 vs 7.1 issue you're dealing with but lets do it one step at a time. (Actually I need more head scratch time :) )

WOW, what a difference! I turned off Audyssey, and the volume is now definitely more than enough! I put in the Kingdom of Heaven Blu-Ray, and the initial battle scene in the woods was shaking the windows at -10db! I didn't even get to step 2, but will try to see if it sounds even better, but I'm quite satisfied with everything after step 1. Thanks so much!

I may have to try turning Audyssey off. My sub doesnt seem to be as loud (or go as low) as it did when I had it hooked to my old 702.

WOW, what a difference! I turned off Audyssey, and the volume is now definitely more than enough! I put in the Kingdom of Heaven Blu-Ray, and the initial battle scene in the woods was shaking the windows at -10db! I didn't even get to step 2, but will try to see if it sounds even better, but I'm quite satisfied with everything after step 1. Thanks so much!

Glad we're getting somewhere. My last bit of advice, rerun Audyssey. Be sure you have no background noise, air conditioning, dishwasher, etc. Make sure the mic is pointing straight up at your listening position (see Jeremy's comments above) at ear level or thereabouts. See if the values change dramatically. Run it and see.

im not quite getting this spl thing. if test tones 705 thx ref. ,how many db. is that? does it matter? shouldnt i just make sure all speakers same output? or just rerun audussy and forget it?

im not quite getting this spl thing. if test tones 705 thx ref. ,how many db. is that? does it matter? shouldnt i just make sure all speakers same output? or just rerun audussy and forget it?

THX reference levels are not absolutely necessary to balance out the levels in your system. Pick a speaker, if its reading 72 dB set em all to 72 or as close to it as you can.

Just be aware that every increase of 3 dB is a doubling of the volume and that loudness plays a part in room acoustics and that THX reference is 75 dB. So, sound engineers when putting together an audio track may very well take into account that the theater is going to play it at 75 dB and all their mixing will be done so that at 75 dB it sounds the way they want it too. So, all that being said, just turn on the meter, start with the left front, turn the volume up or down until you nail 75 dB, then do it to the rest of your speakers.

Your sub is a different animal, so try set it to 75 dB, then boost it to where you want. 98.97% of people in this hobby abuse the sub and absolutely refuse to play it at how it was designed to used. Unless we spill a drink when Batman f**ts, its too low. So much for the terms, tight, detailed, musical, etc. We want boom-boom. Sorry for the soapbox.

Me. I'd rerun Audyssey and listen for a few days. Then boost where I think it needs it.

I have a really itchy trigger finger right now and have been watching this receiver as well as the 605 model for some time. Is there really $200-$250 difference between these two units? THX is not a deal breaker for me so if this is the biggest difference between them then I could probably live without it for the price.

I have a really itchy trigger finger right now and have been watching this receiver as well as the 605 model for some time. Is there really $200-$250 difference between these two units? THX is not a deal breaker for me so if this is the biggest difference between them then I could probably live without it for the price.

The 705 adds this to the 605:
10W more power per channel and Powered Zone 2 Output.
12V Trigger
IR in for Zone 2 IR extension
THX Select 2 certification
A 3rd hdmi input
A 3rd coax SPDIF Input
Optical SPDIF Output
Pre-outs for all 7.1 channels.

Personally the THX Cert. Pre-outs and extra HDMI port were more than enough for me to choose it. Also Powered Zone 2 was a pretty big selling point.

Oh and I almost forgot. The Master Volume Knob is backlit blue. Clearly worth about 400 dollars ;)

I may have to try turning Audyssey off. My sub doesnt seem to be as loud (or go as low) as it did when I had it hooked to my old 702.

Here's the problem: Most people's rooms have a nice room-induced peak around 40-50Hz. Thus, people often get accustomed to subwoofer response that is vastly out of whack from a flat reference response. Also, most bass-induced vibration (rattling of windows, for instance) is caused by strong bass in these frequencies, which further exaggerates the perceived bass. Without room treatments (bass traps, caulking around windows, etc.), you're usually stuck with this unless you do careful equalization to flatten out room-induced peaks.

Because of this, your first response to what Audyssey does might be that your subwoofer isn't as loud. It may well be that you have just become used to the sound of exaggerated bass or bass plagued by the peaks you had before. For instance, with my SVS 20-39CS+, I have a fairly level response from 18Hz to 100Hz, except that I have a MONSTER 8dB peak centered around 45Hz. There's enough energy in that range to throw off any calibration of the overall subwoofer level, so in the past I have used an EQ to bring that peak down. The majority of Audyssey's MultEQ XT processing goes toward analyzing the subwoofer, since low frequencies are the ones most affected by room acoustics.

The above is why I recommend giving yourself a little time to live with it before making up your mind. In my experience, it takes several days of critical listening to really evaluate a system when you've made a change. Just a recommendation.

For kicks, I'm going to run some charts this weekend to compare pre-Audyssey response to post-Audyssey.

The 705 adds this to the 605:
10W more power per channel and Powered Zone 2 Output.
12V Trigger
IR in for Zone 2 IR extension
THX Select 2 certification
A 3rd hdmi input
A 3rd coax SPDIF Input
Optical SPDIF Output
Pre-outs for all 7.1 channels.

Personally the THX Cert. Pre-outs and extra HDMI port were more than enough for me to choose it. Also Powered Zone 2 was a pretty big selling point.

Oh and I almost forgot. The Master Volume Knob is backlit blue. Clearly worth about 400 dollars ;)

Krotchy, thanks for the features rundown and I agree, that backlit volume knob is sexy! :D I would probably have buyer's remorse if I settled on the 605 when I really wanted the 705. I have always been a Pioneer fan myself but this and the most recent lineup of Onkyo units seem the most future proof and bang for the buck. Now if I can get Crutchfield to make this $50 off $250 coupon work I will be in business!

Krotchy, thanks for the features rundown and I agree, that backlit volume knob is sexy! :D I would probably have buyer's remorse if I settled on the 605 when I really wanted the 705. I have always been a Pioneer fan myself but this and the most recent lineup of Onkyo units seem the most future proof and bang for the buck. Now if I can get Crutchfield to make this $50 off $250 coupon work I will be in business!

And don't forget the biggee. The 705 will add post processing, DD PLIIx, THX, Neural, NEO:^, etc. to MCH PCM, DD THD and DTS HD MA. IE: take a 5.1 from your HiDef player and turn it into 7.1, if you choose. The 605 can't.

Here's the problem: Most people's rooms have a nice room-induced peak around 40-50Hz. Thus, people often get accustomed to subwoofer response that is vastly out of whack from a flat reference response. Also, most bass-induced vibration (rattling of windows, for instance) is caused by strong bass in these frequencies, which further exaggerates the perceived bass. Without room treatments (bass traps, caulking around windows, etc.), you're usually stuck with this unless you do careful equalization to flatten out room-induced peaks.

Because of this, your first response to what Audyssey does might be that your subwoofer isn't as loud. It may well be that you have just become used to the sound of exaggerated bass or bass plagued by the peaks you had before. For instance, with my SVS 20-39CS+, I have a fairly level response from 18Hz to 100Hz, except that I have a MONSTER 8dB peak centered around 45Hz. There's enough energy in that range to throw off any calibration of the overall subwoofer level, so in the past I have used an EQ to bring that peak down. The majority of Audyssey's MultEQ XT processing goes toward analyzing the subwoofer, since low frequencies are the ones most affected by room acoustics.

The above is why I recommend giving yourself a little time to live with it before making up your mind. In my experience, it takes several days of critical listening to really evaluate a system when you've made a change. Just a recommendation.

For kicks, I'm going to run some charts this weekend to compare pre-Audyssey response to post-Audyssey.

Thanks for the advice. I was watching 300 last night and what made me really notice the difference was the intro to the movie. There are a couple good parts of low, pulsing bass for a few seconds. My sub just didnt have the kick near what it had before. I went in to the speaker settings and the LFE setting was -15 db. I turned it up to -8 and its more like it was but still doesnt sound (or feel) like it did. I may try to mess around some more with it and see what it does.

And don't forget the biggee. The 705 will add post processing, DD PLIIx, THX, Neural, NEO:^, etc. to MCH PCM, DD THD and DTS HD MA. IE: take a 5.1 from your HiDef player and turn it into 7.1, if you choose. The 605 can't.

Good to know, although I may be coming back here for help with all of that! All of these audio processing formats are confusing to me and I'm never sure if I have things connected for optimal performance. I'm going to pair the 705 with a Toshiba HD-A2 HDDVD player and also my HD cable box. All video will be output at 1080i to my CRT projector (because 1080i looks best on this unit) and my speakers are some old Energy units I found used for dirt cheap. It's just 5.1 but I could easily add something else for the other two channels.

Glad we're getting somewhere. My last bit of advice, rerun Audyssey. Be sure you have no background noise, air conditioning, dishwasher, etc. Make sure the mic is pointing straight up at your listening position (see Jeremy's comments above) at ear level or thereabouts. See if the values change dramatically. Run it and see.

When I first ran Audyssey, I did it that way. In fact, it complained of background noise even if the ac was on, so the entire house was dead silent. I guess I'll try again just to make sure.

Thanks for the advice. I was watching 300 last night and what made me really notice the difference was the intro to the movie. There are a couple good parts of low, pulsing bass for a few seconds. My sub just didnt have the kick near what it had before. I went in to the speaker settings and the LFE setting was -15 db. I turned it up to -8 and its more like it was but still doesnt sound (or feel) like it did. I may try to mess around some more with it and see what it does.

A few suggestions:

1) Do you mean the LFE setting or the subwoofer level? I'm assuming the latter, but the 705 has separate controls to adjust LFE sensitivity for different listening modes (though the defaults of 0 should be good with most gear).

2) If your AVR is having to cut the subwoofer trim that much, you might have the gain on the sub turned higher than you need to. Back down the gain on your sub to give your 705 a little more room to work. The subwoofer being cut that much can seriously affect Audyssey's attempt at equalization, since it can only trim so much.

3) When running Audyssey setup, make sure your mic isn't within about 12-18" of your walls if you can help it, especially at the first listening position where speaker sizes are determined. Room boundaries can amplify bass (which is why corner placement of subwoofer is often suggested), meaning the initial subwoofer level adjustment may be set too low if you put the mic too close to a wall (or surface such as the headrest on your seating).

4) Completely independant of your 705, subwoofer placement is very important. For instance, if you're placing it in a corner, try to keep it several inches away from both walls. If you are placing it along one wall, try to place it at roughly 1/3 of the length of the wall (since the common wisdom is that this will minimize cancellation due to reflections/standing waves). A common practice for pinning down good subwoofer placement, though perhaps a little extreme, is to put the subwoofer in your main listening position and crawl around the floor until you find a spot where bass seems the strongest and most tonally consistent, then put the sub there. You might try your subwoofer in a different position than you currently have it, then re-run Audyssey once you find a good location so it can level out remaining room-induced issues.

5) Take Audyssey's advice on taking measurements in front of your seating positions as well, for a total of at least 6 measurements. As you move away from the room boundaries, bass response will differ. For instance, I have 3 main listening positions in my room. I took a reading in my main seat, then one 5 feet to my right, then 5 feet to my left. I also took readings roughly 2-3 feet in front of this for each of those positions (basically placing the tripod against the front of the couch). Having the additional readings further from the wall should increase the end effect on bass levels, as it is further accounting for acoustics away from room boundaries.

Audyssey MultEQ XT is a great tool, but it is still important to give it the best possible starting point to work with. It definitely isn't a substitute for proper setup of your listening environment.

thx, mrgribbles for the info. will try meter when i get home. i let audussey set up, but i played with levels, just want all to be right. im sure you know what i mean. what good are toys if you cant play with them?

Yep, specs help, but, check with Polk because you really should have the specs for each speaker not a "system" frequency response. Try to get frequency response, efficiency and ohms. Although I feel this is good gear, I have a problem with Polk, why do they hide the info, marketing?

I don't think your fronts would actually be full. But I think that Audyssey has a great deal of control over how it establishes FR. The bottom end of FR isn't a hard cut-off number, typically its rated at a 3dB difference in volume. Since, via equalization, Audyssey can boost the volume over any frequency, it may choose to do it, so your published FR curve gets a boost that raises the drop-off. At least I think so.

1st, turn Audyssey off (you can always turn it back on). Any difference?
2nd, leave Audyssey off, set all your speakers to 80, leave the LFE on the sub at 80. Any difference? If better, turn Audyssey back on. Any difference?
3rd, I may need hlep on this but I think you want to turn off the xover setting on the sub and let the 705 control it.

Are you maxed at volume? Don't forget max volume is +18 on the absolute scale, not 0. 0 is THX reference level, I think 75 (or is it 85?) dB.

I know this doesn't directly address the 5.1 vs 7.1 issue you're dealing with but lets do it one step at a time. (Actually I need more head scratch time :) )

I would like to try this too....it seems that some prefers when the audessey is off. and would lije to try step 2 also. Wow this thread rocks thanks for all
contributions of your knowledge and experiences with your 705.


I have a st-pid question?

Afte running the audessey how do you turn it off.

Thanks,
Peter

Go into setup --> speaker setup --> Equalizer Settings --> OFF

And don't forget the biggee. The 705 will add post processing, DD PLIIx, THX, Neural, NEO:^, etc. to MCH PCM, DD THD and DTS HD MA. IE: take a 5.1 from your HiDef player and turn it into 7.1, if you choose. The 605 can't.


I am having a problem with this (NEURALTHX7.1) when I play DD THD and DTS HD it will show in display MCH PCM 5.1 but it won't let me choose Neuralthx7.1 for some reason but with others mentioned above like PLIIX, THX, NEO are no problems. and it works also with all sd dvd. I keep pressing
dsp buttons, thx buttons still can't find the neural if I would like to apply with DD THD and DTS HD and DTS ES.

Go into setup --> speaker setup --> Equalizer Settings --> OFF

Thanks so turning off the equalizer is like turning off the audessey. I see.
thanks,

I connected an AC Fan (Mechatronics 120x120x25mm Low Speed AC fan w/36 inch Cord "UF12B12BWL") to the AC outlet on the back of my SR 705.

The problem is when I put the AVR into standby mode, the fan does not shut off. The instruction manual (page 42) states that components attached to the AC outlet will automatically turn on and off when the 705 is switched between On and Standby.

Am I missing something?

I connected an AC Fan (Mechatronics 120x120x25mm Low Speed AC fan w/36 inch Cord "UF12B12BWL") to the AC outlet on the back of my SR 705.

The problem is when I put the AVR into standby mode, the fan does not shut off. The instruction manual (page 42) states that components attached to the AC outlet will automatically turn on and off when the 705 is switched between On and Standby.

Am I missing something?

There have been other posts with this. I believe that a reset fixes it. Of course it fixes everything back to factory default, all user settings lost.

I am having a problem with this (NEURALTHX7.1) when I play DD THD and DTS HD it will show in display MCH PCM 5.1 but it won't let me choose Neuralthx7.1 for some reason but with others mentioned above like PLIIX, THX, NEO are no problems. and it works also with all sd dvd. I keep pressing
dsp buttons, thx buttons still can't find the neural if I would like to apply with DD THD and DTS HD and DTS ES.

I'll double check it later today. It should be in the Surround mode area? The chart says we get it, and i thought I got it, but my wife has hidden my remote so I don't play with it any more =)

The 705 adds this to the 605:
10W more power per channel and Powered Zone 2 Output.
12V Trigger
IR in for Zone 2 IR extension
THX Select 2 certification
A 3rd hdmi input
A 3rd coax SPDIF Input
Optical SPDIF Output
Pre-outs for all 7.1 channels.

Personally the THX Cert. Pre-outs and extra HDMI port were more than enough for me to choose it. Also Powered Zone 2 was a pretty big selling point.

Oh and I almost forgot. The Master Volume Knob is backlit blue. Clearly worth about 400 dollars ;)


Current deals for 605 - $380 + tax and 705 - $630. Difference of about $250 (as stated above). Clearly different price range for different features. Not sure if there will be any Labor Day deals for the 705 or not.

It is according to the loudness setting of the 705 or the 805 which I returned today. When volume is set like when playing a movie loud, but not extreme, the speakers make a popping sound. This happens when PS3 starts to play movie for a split second. Then if you decide to stop movie and restart from where it stopped happens again. When movie is over and you just stop disc play altogether with the PS3 get same pop again. If you lower the volume about 10 to 15 db. lower it sounds more like a click instead of a pop. I just starting muting the volume for my own preference. It is not so bad as to cause damage to speakers, but is very annoying. My Toshiba HD-A2 sounds more like a medium click and not pop sound like the PS3. On the upside my Oppo 981 has no click or pop at all, of course the sound is bitstream instead of PCM, except for SACD using PCM and no pop. Maybe it's the PS3 but the Toshiba HD-A2 does it too, but not near as loud, much more forgiving. After a bit more testing, it's not all that bad, just take some getting use to and the sound once a movie is in progress is FANTASTIC. The 705 in all other respects is a winner for me, so a little pop with PS3, (which Onkyo web site FAQ) say is normal and not a defect.
Things I tried to eliminate problem, or I should say annoyance:
1. Turned off the Audyssey EQ (helped on the 805 made no difference on 705.
2. Changed crossover settings for speakers with many different settings.
3. Checked all my audio settings of PS3 and Toshiba HD-A2.
4. Swapped 3 HDMI cables on my PS3.
5. Swapped 3 HDMI cable on Toshiba HD-A2
6. Said a prayer!
7. The Man upstairs told me to just live with it!

The way I stopped 95% of my pops is went into Listening Modes for each of my devices in the Onkyo menus. I then made sure none of them said Pure Audio or Last Used... I set them all to other things... Like PLIIx, etc. This stopped a lot of the clicking.

I'll double check it later today. It should be in the Surround mode area? The chart says we get it, and i thought I got it, but my wife has hidden my remote so I don't play with it any more =)


Thank you very much, looking forward with your findings. I gave my wife the old onkyo receiver remote I don't she knows the difference from the 705's remote.:D
(just kidding)

The 705 adds this to the 605:
10W more power per channel and Powered Zone 2 Output.
12V Trigger
IR in for Zone 2 IR extension
THX Select 2 certification
A 3rd hdmi input
A 3rd coax SPDIF Input
Optical SPDIF Output
Pre-outs for all 7.1 channels.

Personally the THX Cert. Pre-outs and extra HDMI port were more than enough for me to choose it. Also Powered Zone 2 was a pretty big selling point.

Oh and I almost forgot. The Master Volume Knob is backlit blue. Clearly worth about 400 dollars ;)

Don't forget, when in use the "Pure Audio" button is backlit blue. Is the remote on the 605 backlit also? All the buttons on the 705 are backlit green when the "light" button on the side of the remote is pushed.

Does the 705 upconvert 480i to 720p?

The 705 adds this to the 605:
10W more power per channel and Powered Zone 2 Output.
12V Trigger
IR in for Zone 2 IR extension
THX Select 2 certification
A 3rd hdmi input
A 3rd coax SPDIF Input
Optical SPDIF Output
Pre-outs for all 7.1 channels.

Personally the THX Cert. Pre-outs and extra HDMI port were more than enough for me to choose it. Also Powered Zone 2 was a pretty big selling point.

Oh and I almost forgot. The Master Volume Knob is backlit blue. Clearly worth about 400 dollars ;)

Don't forget the phono input. This is nice for those of us who still listen to vinyl....:)

THX reference levels are not absolutely necessary to balance out the levels in your system. Pick a speaker, if its reading 72 dB set em all to 72 or as close to it as you can.

Just be aware that every increase of 3 dB is a doubling of the volume and that loudness plays a part in room acoustics and that THX reference is 75 dB.


An increase of 3dB is a doubling of input power. Doubling volume takes a 10 dB increase.

I do believe that THX reference is 85 dB, but I could be mistaken...

Does the 705 upconvert 480i to 720p?

It can when enabled, but be aware that it upconverts only analog sources like component to 720p and outputs that only over HDMI. People have also reported aspect ratio problems in this mode (16:9 in, but 4:3 out). Search this thread for more info.

Hey guys well after my "discovery" that i could go over 0db, i am now extremely happy with ther power/volume output of my 705. Once it hit daylight yesterday, i took it up into the positives and i could barely get to +4db befoire it was just way too loud. So that's more like iit... plenty o headroom there now.

I have some nooby problems with listening modes though. When i was watching 300 on DVD last night, (DVD player hooked up via optical and component) the receiver was reporting it was receiving Dolby Digital signal, and i didnt have many listening modes i could select at all. Eg none of the PLII ones, neural THX etc etc. I had a play around in the DVD player settings and found that if i switch Dolby Digital output to PCM ratehr than bitsream, the 705 could then choose a whole lot more listening modes.

I thought bitstream was supposed to be "better" than PCM, but it seems all of the post preocessing listening modes will only work on a PCM signal. I can choose between PCM and bitstream setting for 3 types of audio output - Dolby Digital, DTS and MPEG. There is also a "PCM Downconversion" yes/no option. Any advice how i should setup my DVD player?

Also, i am looking at the Listening Mode charts in the manual starttng on page 67... but at the top in the source format types, what does it mean where they say "except */2" etc. Picking the Dolby D section (on page 68) for example, it is broken down into several types of source format. Multichannel (except */2), Multichannel */2, 2ch, 1/0, 1+1

What the hell do these all mean? Is multichannel only if you have a DVD player with the 6 individual analog audio input cables?

When i was watching 300 on DVD last night, (DVD player hooked up via optical and component) the receiver was reporting it was receiving Dolby Digital signal, and i didnt have many listening modes i could select at all. Eg none of the PLII ones, neural THX etc etc. I had a play around in the DVD player settings and found that if i switch Dolby Digital output to PCM ratehr than bitsream, the 705 could then choose a whole lot more listening modes.

Is your setup 6.1/7.1 or just 5.1? Because if it's just 5.1, Dolby Digital is all you're getting. The other modes are there to create the rear surround channel or channels from 5.1 audio. The reason you see the modes when you change to PCM is because you're basically playing the movie in stereo at that point... and 2-channel can use those other modes to synthesize 5.1.

I am only running 5.1

So basically, PCM is "worse" than bitstream, so i should set everything to bitstream in my DVD player?

can someone explain to me what the different columns mean: except */2, */2, 2ch and 1/0, 1+1

So when my DVD player was set to PCM rather than bitstream, I guess i would then fall under the "multichannel PCM" section of the listening mode table on page 67, rather than "Dolby D" section on page 68?

The reason you see the modes when you change to PCM is because you're basically playing the movie in stereo at that point... and 2-channel can use those other modes to synthesize 5.1.

I'm not sure if that's right; the PS3 and most other BD and HD DVD players decode lossless codecs in player and output multi-channel PCM (over HDMI).

I'm not sure if that's right; the PS3 and most other BD and HD DVD players decode lossless codecs in player and output multi-channel PCM (over HDMI).

Yes, but in his specific case, he states that he's using an optical/TOSLINK connection. If he changes his DVD player to output PCM instead of bitstream, it's outputting 2-channel PCM downconverted from the 5.1 track (not multi-channel PCM, because TOSLINK doesn't have the bandwidth for multi-channel PCM).

But yes, multi-channel PCM via HDMI is a different beast altogether, and you can do post-processing to synthesize 6.1/7.1 on 5.1 tracks that way if you have a 6.1/7.1 setup. But even with HDMI, if you only have 5.1 connected, those post-processing modes are disabled because there's no rear surround channel to create.

I just placed my order with Crutchfield for the 705S. It took a while to decide on color, but the wife really liked the silver better. As previously posted, I had a 20% off new customer coupon. It worked great. I paid $519 delivered. Unfortunately, they are back ordered. It shouldn't take too long to get I'm hoping.

Hey All,

I am about 2 days into a full HDMI set up through my 705. Everything is working great and the picture is perfect. The only thing I noticed is that the top and bottom one inch of picture are clipped on my TV. Every channel displays a full picture but I can't see things like stock tickers, times, etc. I am not sure which component that I a missing a setting in. Any ideas?

SA 8300HD PVR/Cable via HDMI to 705 to TV via HDMI.

Thanks

Justin

so whats the major diff between the 705 and the 805?

yeah i wanted silver and my wife likes the silver receiver its replacing so she prob like it beter too but i'm not telling her it comes in silver and the black matches the tv and stand and mos tother components better anyway i think so it just blends in better which is prob what you want.

not a bad price at Crutchfield

I thought once you balanced out your levels on each speaker that it was better not to push your volume into the positive realm, that this is the point where the amps in the receiver are producing clean undistorted power. I would not go past 0db. I could be wrong about this any thoughts from others. I stay between -10db and -5db normally

so whats the major diff between the 705 and the 805? see post 433 - this thread.

I am only running 5.1

So basically, PCM is "worse" than bitstream, so i should set everything to bitstream in my DVD player?

can someone explain to me what the different columns mean: except */2, */2, 2ch and 1/0, 1+1

So when my DVD player was set to PCM rather than bitstream, I guess i would then fall under the "multichannel PCM" section of the listening mode table on page 67, rather than "Dolby D" section on page 68?

The */2, 1/0 etc are Dolby speak. Check out the Dolby site. What you will find is that */2 means 2 rear channels and any front arrangement so 5.1. Except -*/2 means over 5.1, therefore 6.1, 7.1 etc. and so on.

I started to do a long write up on this but, the dolby website has this stuff very clearly explained, including very lucid flow diagrams.

I have set up the Harmony 880 to control all my components but the wife wants to use the Comcast remote for basic TV watching. So to keep that WAF high I am trying to setup the comcast remote. I have tried both remote codes to control the Onkyo but I cannot turn off the Onkyo. I can turn it on and control the basics it just will not turn off or go into standby.

Is anyone else using the comcast remote and can you turn the onkyo off? Is there a new Onkyo remote code for the 705?
-Craig

An increase of 3dB is a doubling of input power. Doubling volume takes a 10 dB increase.

I do believe that THX reference is 85 dB, but I could be mistaken...

Thanks for the corrections.

It is 85 dB for THX reference. Way too loud for me.

And yes 3 dB is a an increase in volume equivalent to doubling the input power. A reference I have states: "Likewise, double the volume requires roughly a 6dB increase, which is equivalent to 4 times the power!"

Thanks again for showing me the error in my ways.

Don't forget the phono input. This is nice for those of us who still listen to vinyl....:)

Another reason I went for the 705!:)

i set speaker levels with spl last night. all were pretty close,except the ones i played with. big difference, watched godzilla, good exercise for 705. sounded awesome. my system pretty much rocks. panny 58 700u, onk 705,sammy bdp 1200, ed a2-300 sub, ascends 340/200s. all researched and recommended by this forum. thx to all. i now have system to be proud of.

I have set up the Harmony 880 to control all my components but the wife wants to use the Comcast remote for basic TV watching. So to keep that WAF high I am trying to setup the comcast remote. I have tried both remote codes to control the Onkyo but I cannot turn off the Onkyo. I can turn it on and control the basics it just will not turn off or go into standby.

Is anyone else using the comcast remote and can you turn the onkyo off? Is there a new Onkyo remote code for the 705?
-Craig

Same problem for the exact same reason, She Who Must Be Obeyed. The new Onk codes for AVRs uses three power codes, on, off and toggle on/off. Unfortunately, When they made the switch the toggle code became power on so you can turn it on but not off or toggle back and forth.

Its a "one for all" brand remote and you can get info here: http://www.urcsupport.com/index.php

I just went through one of their Q&A sessions and they came up wit hthe following codes to try: 0627, 0503, 1769. Try 'em. I will later on.

I don't know if any of you 705ers have been keeping an eye on the HD DVD hardware thread but industry insiders have announced that within days or weeks Toshiba will DEFINITELY be releasing a firmware upgrade that brings 24 fps and bitstreaming of 7.1 DD THD, DD+ and DTS HD MA over HDMI to your 705 for decoding from the XA2 and some other models of HD DVD player. You will finally get to see TrueHd light up on the 705 display. I am going to plug the ethernet back into the XA2 this afternoon and leave it there. I can't wait.

Hey guys well after my "discovery" that i could go over 0db, i am now extremely happy with ther power/volume output of my 705. Once it hit daylight yesterday, i took it up into the positives and i could barely get to +4db befoire it was just way too loud. So that's more like iit... plenty o headroom there now.

I have some nooby problems with listening modes though. When i was watching 300 on DVD last night, (DVD player hooked up via optical and component) the receiver was reporting it was receiving Dolby Digital signal, and i didnt have many listening modes i could select at all. Eg none of the PLII ones, neural THX etc etc. I had a play around in the DVD player settings and found that if i switch Dolby Digital output to PCM ratehr than bitsream, the 705 could then choose a whole lot more listening modes.

I thought bitstream was supposed to be "better" than PCM, but it seems all of the post preocessing listening modes will only work on a PCM signal. I can choose between PCM and bitstream setting for 3 types of audio output - Dolby Digital, DTS and MPEG. There is also a "PCM Downconversion" yes/no option. Any advice how i should setup my DVD player?

Also, i am looking at the Listening Mode charts in the manual starttng on page 67... but at the top in the source format types, what does it mean where they say "except */2" etc. Picking the Dolby D section (on page 68) for example, it is broken down into several types of source format. Multichannel (except */2), Multichannel */2, 2ch, 1/0, 1+1

What the hell do these all mean? Is multichannel only if you have a DVD player with the 6 individual analog audio input cables?

I've been experiencing the same thing I have a 7.1 set up and if I play a sd dvd with DD ex audio my receiver is stuck with DD ex or THX sorr ex and some of the dsp like pl music movie but no neuralthx7.1 and THX cinema or DDPLIIX. I've been addressing this issue several days now but everyone so busy tweaking their speakers. But finally someone else noticed it too.

I played gladiator sd dvd and choose DTS ES again no other dsp can be access I like to have the neuralthx7.1 all the time if I could but it seems
like this new feature of Onkyo is limited or it depends with dvd.

I played Joe somebody w/c is DD 5.1 only (not ex) I was able to access every dsp in 705 even the neuralthx7.1

Uncompressed 5.1 is no problem also when accessing nueralthx7.1 which is good because most of the blu ray is in uncompressed 5.1

I will try trudhd and DD plus tonight.

scarecorw420

You sounds like you have the new panasonic bd10ak. Do you?
I have one also, this made me decided to buy the 705.

Thanks,
Peter

what really is the difference in the two thx certifications on the 705 and the 805

I don't know if any of you 705ers have been keeping an eye on the HD DVD hardware thread but industry insiders have announced that within days or weeks Toshiba will DEFINITELY be releasing a firmware upgrade that brings 24 fps and bitstreaming of 7.1 DD THD, DD+ and DTS HD MA over HDMI to your 705 for decoding from the XA2 and some other models of HD DVD player. You will finally get to see TrueHd light up on the 705 display. I am going to plug the ethernet back into the XA2 this afternoon and leave it there. I can't wait.

This is awesome news, Do you know if they include a2 with this new firmware?

This is awesome news, Do you know if they include a2 with this new firmware? Yes the A2 is included but since I don't know the specs I don't know to what extent it will be upgraded.

go here and work your way down: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=894428

search for firmware.

Edit: You better check this one out yourself, I may misread A2 for A20. I hope there's good news in there for you.

what really is the difference in the two thx certifications on the 705 and the 805

Primarily power, larger room size. Look here: http://www.thx.com/products/home/logos/index.html?f=h2

I've been experiencing the same thing I have a 7.1 set up and if I play a sd dvd with DD ex audio my receiver is stuck with DD ex or THX sorr ex and some of the dsp like pl music movie but no neuralthx7.1 and THX cinema or DDPLIIX. I've been addressing this issue several days now but everyone so busy tweaking their speakers. But finally someone else noticed it too.

I played gladiator sd dvd and choose DTS ES again no other dsp can be access I like to have the neuralthx7.1 all the time if I could but it seems
like this new feature of Onkyo is limited or it depends with dvd.

I played Joe somebody w/c is DD 5.1 only (not ex) I was able to access every dsp in 705 even the neuralthx7.1

Uncompressed 5.1 is no problem also when accessing nueralthx7.1 which is good because most of the blu ray is in uncompressed 5.1

I will try trudhd and DD plus tonight.

Peter, check page 85 & 86 of your manual. DD EX is a special beast and if you have the default Auto setting on, thats about all you can get. Actually its really want you would want, but if you set it to manual, all the listening modes will be available when you play your EX encoded disks. This was an easy one.

Peter, check page 85 & 86 of your manual. DD EX is a special beast and if you have the default Auto setting on, thats about all you can get. Actually its really want you would want, but if you set it to manual, all the listening modes will be available when you play your EX encoded disks. This was an easy one.

you mean if I set the audessey into MANUAL? and how would I know if the default auto is on? where can I see it? this is great mrgribbles thanks a lot. I will browse my manual tonight. sorry for the noobie questions.

I will read the thread later about the firmware updates for the hd dvd. thanks for the link.

you mean if I set the audessey into MANUAL? and how would I know if the default auto is on? where can I see it? this is great mrgribbles thanks a lot. I will browse my manual tonight. sorry for the noobie questions.

I will read the thread later about the firmware updates for the hd dvd. thanks for the link.

Sorry for the confusion. The 2 settings for DD EX are "AUTO" and "MANUAL".

Don't forget the phono input. This is nice for those of us who still listen to vinyl....:)

The 705 adds this to the 605:
10W more power per channel and Powered Zone 2 Output.
12V Trigger
IR in for Zone 2 IR extension
THX Select 2 certification
A 3rd hdmi input
A 3rd coax SPDIF Input
Optical SPDIF Output
Pre-outs for all 7.1 channels.

Personally the THX Cert. Pre-outs and extra HDMI port were more than enough for me to choose it. Also Powered Zone 2 was a pretty big selling point.

Oh and I almost forgot. The Master Volume Knob is backlit blue. Clearly worth about 400 dollars ;)

Audyssey MultEQ XT vs Audyssey 2EQ. This was the clincher for me. The 705 is the least expensive receiver with Audyssey MultEQ XT. Although this may be 2 measurement position vs 8 measurement positions, I did not wan't to take the chance that Audyssey MultEQ XT is more advanced in its processing.

I played gladiator sd dvd and choose DTS ES again no other dsp can be access I like to have the neuralthx7.1 all the time if I could but it seems
like this new feature of Onkyo is limited or it depends with dvd.


The other part of your question was already answered (i.e. changing the DD-EX to manual instead of Auto), but the reason that you can't choose other listening modes with Gladiator's DTS-ES track is because the rear surround data is discrete with DTS-ES Discrete. Accordingly, you don't need to use any of the processing modes to synthesize a rear surround channel, so your AVR will lock into DTS-ES mode for those tracks. The 5.1-to-6.1/7.1 processing is only necessary for 5.1 tracks.

(Note for the anal: DTS-ES Discrete, despite its name, is not REALLY discrete since rear surround data is subtracted from L/R Surround channels when the rear surround data is used from the extended metadata in the DTS bitstream. Accordingly, one can't consider DTS-ES to be truly discrete since the channels have to be modified during processing for the sake of maintaining backwards compatibility with 5.1 systems.)

Sorry for the confusion. The 2 settings for DD EX are "AUTO" and "MANUAL".

thank you, honestly speaking that is why I don't really know what is going on with my 705 is because I did not read thorugh the manual. I only read a few pages but not everything. I will read it later during my lunchbreak. I apologized.

thank you, honestly speaking that is why I don't really know what is going on with my 705 is because I did not read thorugh the manual. I only read a few pages but not everything. I will read it later during my lunchbreak. I apologized.

You read the manual on Xmas morning 4 hours into putting the kids toys together backwards.

Audyssey MultEQ XT vs Audyssey 2EQ. This was the clincher for me. The 705 is the least expensive receiver with Audyssey MultEQ XT. Although this may be 2 measurement position vs 8 measurement positions, I did not wan't to take the chance that Audyssey MultEQ XT is more advanced in its processing.

It isn't just the number of measurement positions. Audyssey 2EQ does zero equalization of the subwoofer and only basic equalization of the speakers. MultEQ XT does equalization of the speakers and subwoofer at 8-16x the resolution of 2EQ, with the majority of the EQ processing done at lower frequencies where most of the acoustic issues normally lie.

I just placed my order with Crutchfield for the 705S. It took a while to decide on color, but the wife really liked the silver better. As previously posted, I had a 20% off new customer coupon. It worked great. I paid $519 delivered. Unfortunately, they are back ordered. It shouldn't take too long to get I'm hoping.

That's a great price. Too bad we don't all have 20% coupons. Crutchfield is very good about their shipping. I have gotten items in one or two days after ordering. Enjoy your new 705 .

Hi all. Finally registered. I've often used this forum in the past for info and have always considered it the single best place for reference. Much thanks to everybody for contributing.

I've just finished reading the 605 thread and have decided the 705 is the one I'm shooting for. I'm keeping a close eye out hoping to possibly snag one from CC if they drop the price like some have seen in the past. The best deal I've seen as of this morning is $619 to the door. I know this is good, but still a little steep for me coming from my budget of $400 for the 605, but I feel it is worth it. Anybody feeling maybe labor day will see some price drops?

Hi all. Finally registered. I've often used this forum in the past for info and have always considered it the single best place for reference. Much thanks to everybody for contributing.

I've just finished reading the 605 thread and have decided the 705 is the one I'm shooting for. I'm keeping a close eye out hoping to possibly snag one from CC if they drop the price like some have seen in the past. The best deal I've seen as of this morning is $619 to the door. I know this is good, but still a little steep for me coming from my budget of $400 for the 605, but I feel it is worth it. Anybody feeling maybe labor day will see some price drops?

Welcome to the forum

You read the manual on Xmas morning 4 hours into putting the kids toys together backwards.

I normally read the manual right out but seems I was not sure if I will keep the 705 don't want to mess up the manual that is just me.

The other part of your question was already answered (i.e. changing the DD-EX to manual instead of Auto), but the reason that you can't choose other listening modes with Gladiator's DTS-ES track is because the rear surround data is discrete with DTS-ES Discrete. Accordingly, you don't need to use any of the processing modes to synthesize a rear surround channel, so your AVR will lock into DTS-ES mode for those tracks. The 5.1-to-6.1/7.1 processing is only necessary for 5.1 tracks.

(Note for the anal: DTS-ES Discrete, despite its name, is not REALLY discrete since rear surround data is subtracted from L/R Surround channels when the rear surround data is used from the extended metadata in the DTS bitstream. Accordingly, one can't consider DTS-ES to be truly discrete since the channels have to be modified during processing for the sake of maintaining backwards compatibility with 5.1 systems.)

I am just playing about this dsp if we can get more out of DTS ES. But thanks anyway.

i have a question. iwas listening to music stereo mode, when i hit direct no bass. does the player have to be set up to put out the bass in that mode? same with pure. running sammy bdp 1200. like i said sub was kicking until direct mode then none until switched back to stereo.

Hi all. Finally registered. I've often used this forum in the past for info and have always considered it the single best place for reference. Much thanks to everybody for contributing.

I've just finished reading the 605 thread and have decided the 705 is the one I'm shooting for. I'm keeping a close eye out hoping to possibly snag one from CC if they drop the price like some have seen in the past. The best deal I've seen as of this morning is $619 to the door. I know this is good, but still a little steep for me coming from my budget of $400 for the 605, but I feel it is worth it. Anybody feeling maybe labor day will see some price drops?

I just talked to a guy at Crutchfield who told me that he expects them and other vendors to increase their prices on the 605 and 705 once they get them back in stock. So if you have a preorder you better keep it. He could just be blowing smoke though for all I know. I had a $50 off $250 coupon code but he said it was recalled and invalid so I put the brakes on ordering as I had expected to get it for around $599. I will be watching the sale ads for Labor Day sales as well. I'm not at the point where I really have to have a receiver yet as I'm still working on my theater room but it's been really tempting to go ahead and get it.

After having reviewed all the posts about the different receiver, I think my best bet is the Onkyo TX-SR705.

Now I need to buy some speakers. I have a budget of $1000.
It seems the system by SVS (http://www.svsound.com/products-sys-sbs_black.cfm) is highly regaded by the members of this forum.

Do you think it would do a good job with the Onkyo? Or would you recommend different speakers?

Thanks a lot for your help.

Same problem for the exact same reason, She Who Must Be Obeyed. The new Onk codes for AVRs uses three power codes, on, off and toggle on/off. Unfortunately, When they made the switch the toggle code became power on so you can turn it on but not off or toggle back and forth.

Its a "one for all" brand remote and you can get info here: http://www.urcsupport.com/index.php

I just went through one of their Q&A sessions and they came up wit hthe following codes to try: 0627, 0503, 1769. Try 'em. I will later on.

Good looking out man.. i was trying to use my comcrap remote with my onkyo but did not know how to control the receivers volume and not just the tv's from every mode. They gave a special little code to reassign volume control to another mode.

I have fears that the lil thumbstick control on the remote we got with the Onkyo will wear out overtime. I use that feature a lot with my DVR/cable box so it will wear out for me fast. I can go back to using the junky comcrap remote now and just save the receivers remote for a rainy day!

:D

After having reviewed all the posts about the different receiver, I think my best bet is the Onkyo TX-SR705.

Now I need to buy some speakers. I have a budget of $1000.
It seems the system by SVS (http://www.svsound.com/products-sys-sbs_black.cfm) is highly regaded by the members of this forum.

Do you think it would do a good job with the Onkyo? Or would you recommend different speakers?

Thanks a lot for your help.

The 705 should have no problem driving the SVS speakers. The only caveat with them is that they have a lower sensitivity than most bookshelf speakers you'll find in that size (meaning your volume knob will have to go slightly higher to reach the same level). However, they do have a flatter frequency response than most speakers, so they'll provide a good starting point for the Audyssey calibration (meaning Audyssey will correct more for room acoustics than any deficiency in the speaker's frequency response).

Plus, that PB10-NSD sub will put a big grin on your face. However, if you're running it in a larger room (or just like pushing your system near reference level), you might think about stepping the sub up to the PB12-NSD.

I'm actually considering ditching my Polks for a set of those SVS speakers, minus the sub ('cause I already have the 20-39CS+).

Hi.

I was looking between these 2 receivers and I am having a little trouble deciding. As far as I can tell, the main difference between the 2 units is the Burr Brown DACs, THX Ultra vs. THX Select, the weight, more watts, and zone 3 capabilities.

I have the M&K 150 speaker system with a M&K 500 subwoofer.

The prices on the 705 are around $200 cheaper. Am I better off with the 805 with my speakers, or is the 705 sufficient?

Thanks.

P.S. Sorry for asking the same question as others before, that was found on p.13 (I never got that far through all the posts until now).

After having reviewed all the posts about the different receiver, I think my best bet is the Onkyo TX-SR705.

Now I need to buy some speakers. I have a budget of $1000.
It seems the system by SVS (http://www.svsound.com/products-sys-sbs_black.cfm) is highly regaded by the members of this forum.

Do you think it would do a good job with the Onkyo? Or would you recommend different speakers?

Thanks a lot for your help.

Just some thoughts on the matter:
I tried a 5.1 setup for 1 week on this Onkyo. I was not able to use many of the DSP's on this receiver as a result. Once I bought the extra 2 satellites to my set a couple days back... I was shocked. I was shocked at how many more DSP's became available to chose from. You will want to step it up to 7.1 channel from SVS if you really want to compliment this receiver properly.

7.1 from SVS will bump your budget up just a tiny bit. I do not own SVS I had a lot of people on these forums try to steer me that route like a pack of rabid wolves! :D ....and The HSU brand too.

I had certain installation requirements that negated that brand from my list. Mostly I wanted to hallow drywall mount the entire setup and the satellites weight 11 pounds each and the center weights 19 pounds. (Was a bedroom installation)

The subwoofer is the crowning jewel of that SVS system, in my eyes. Even though I never listened to these SVS speakers.... spec wise here are some things that will help. The satellite freq responce is 68hz-20khz.. with power handling of 20-120w. This Onkyo will work fine in that range, perhaps under-powering them just a tiny bit (of what they are capable of). They will work and sound fine I am sure.

(I wont gain any friends here by saying this... but)Whenever any single brand is heavily recommended in small circles I am always cautious of the "cult of zealots" effect. So I was skeptical being that this forums is only place online I hear so much praise for that company (minus a couple other reviews here and there). I am not shooting this company down... for what they offering the price is good.

However, 1200 bucks isn't a small amount of cash, stay open minded and look at all your options before you decide.

I spent a little more then the SVS system and got a KEF 3005 setup with 2 extra 3001 satellites later on. (In all black not silver)
http://reviews.cnet.com/surround-speaker-systems/kef-kht-3005-silver/4505-7868_7-31919068.html

They got a great sound, perhaps for a living room setup you could get a beefier system though. For a bedroom installation these worked out amazing.. and have a huge sound. Not to mention I found more sources online praising KEF systems then I could find praising SVS. I am not recommending KEF for you.... at all... I am saying do yourself justice and shop all your options.

When I purchase things sight unseen (or unheard in this case) I like getting all the "multiple sources" of secondary praise I can get. If you have 200 people on these forums all purchasing their 1st big home theater speaker setup, because the guy next to them recommended it, you get 200 people who are blown away by their 1st high quality speaker purchase (any higher end offering could impress them since its their 1st major speaker purchase). Which is what I meant by cult of zealots... blindly following without any real logical reasoning to do so other then everyone else near them is doing it.

NOTE: If i seem bitter, its cause all those same SVS/HSU zealots on these forums shot down my final decision harshly when I told them I went with another brand. (another brand that was also recommended to me on same thread mind you) They also didn't shoot down my brand in a technical comparison kind of way... they did it in a way that made me realize they did not have a clue about what makes SVS good or bad in comparison to other brands. They just heard someone else on forums say SVS is good.... and they are clueless so they bought it. Do your homework, if you find SVS shines for the "money to quality" value compared to other offerings your looking at. Thats the right reason to buy into it.

Good looking out man.. i was trying to use my comcrap remote with my onkyo but did not know how to control the receivers volume and not just the tv's from every mode. They gave a special little code to reassign volume control to another mode.

I have fears that the lil thumbstick control on the remote we got with the Onkyo will wear out overtime. I use that feature a lot with my DVR/cable box so it will wear out for me fast. I can go back to using the junky comcrap remote now and just save the receivers remote for a rainy day!

:D
Unfortunately, they didn't work as I had hoped. O627 will turn it off but thats it. Not even volume.

Rutlian, I tried to get Neural 7.1 with a 5.1 cable source. Nooo problemo.

PPS: If i seem bitter, its cause all those same SVS/HSU zealots on these forums shot down my decision harshly when I told them I went with another brand.

Heh... Yeah, there does tend to be a bit of evangelism when it comes to SVS. I'm not particularly on that list, but I will say that my 20-39CS+ is one of the best purchases I've made for my system. I've also heard the PB10 and a couple of their Ultra subs here locally, and the performance they're pushing for the price is pretty damn phenomenal.

But ultimately, it's up to the individual to decide what will sound best to them. The good news about SVS - excellent return policy if you don't like the sound. Regardless, the neutral sound of the 705 should work pretty well with the flat characteristics of the SVS speakers if you're looking to get close to reference as far as tonal balance and frequency response. If you prefer a warmer sound for music, you might consider other options. You might even consider just getting a SVS sub and pairing it up with some other brand speakers. Personally, I'm running my 705 with Polk Audio speakers with my SVS sub, and the combination works nicely.

Heh... Yeah, there does tend to be a bit of evangelism when it comes to SVS.

Glad to hear I am not alone in that assessment! :D

In the future I may too do like your saying there. Take the best SVS sub and pair it with another brand for the sats/center.... for my living room. Spec wise, design wise, price wise... I am very impressed with SVS's subs!

Unfortunately, they didn't work as I had hoped. O627 will turn it off but thats it. Not even volume.

:confused: That's Odd.. I got lucky my comcast remote controls onkyo's: power, volume and mute.

I used code 0135 for mine.. I believe.

Did you change volume control over to the Aux mode? My volume control was going straight to my tv volume, I had to reassign it with volume lock. http://www.urcsupport.com/html.php?page_id=152

Rutlian, I tried to get Neural 7.1 with a 5.1 cable source. Nooo problemo.

Great I will try your advise tonight about turning the DDex into manual mode.

and by the way uncompressed 5.1 with neuralthx701 is fantastic.....awesome..

Just some thoughts on the matter:
.............................
(I wont gain any friends here by saying this... but)Whenever any single brand is heavily recommended in small circles I am always cautious of the "cult of zealots" effect. So I was skeptical being that this forums is only place online I hear so much praise for that company (minus a couple other reviews here and there). I am not shooting this company down... for what they offering the price is good.

........................
When I purchase things sight unseen (or unheard in this case) I like getting all the "multiple sources" of secondary praise I can get. If you have 200 people on these forums all purchasing their 1st big home theater speaker setup, because the guy next to them recommended it, you get 200 people who are blown away by their 1st high quality speaker purchase (any higher end offering could impress them since its their 1st major speaker purchase). Which is what I meant by cult of zealots... blindly following without any real logical reasoning to do so other then everyone else near them is doing it..

I only quoted part of it, but in general i thought this was some of the thoughts/concerns I had had as well. Of course, I'm pretty much a noob and have bought into most of it for the most part and have myself convinced that I NEED a Hsu or SVS sub to compliment my new system, even though I've never heard either.

on the other hand, if you don't have access or the ability to audition all these brands, and if you are wanting an opinion from a LOT of people and just want to make sure you get a good sound, what's wrong with it? i mean, most people just want as good of a system as they can get for their budget with the lowest likelihood of being disappointed. I think these forums do do that, even if they miss other possible gems that may also fit the bill.

:confused: That's Odd.. I got lucky my comcast remote controls onkyo's: power, volume and mute.

I used code 0135 for mine.. I believe.

Did you change volume control over to the Aux mode? My volume control was going straight to my tv volume, I had to reassign it with volume lock. http://www.urcsupport.com/html.php?page_id=152

Really!! Are you able to turn the 705 on & off? If so, you're my man. I sure can't do it. Do me a favor, can you. Here's the instructions on how to get the code you have in there for AUX.

1. PRESS the device (TV,VCR,CABLE, AUD, etc.) button - RELEASE
2. PRESS and HOLD the SETUP button until the red LED for the selected device flashes twice, then RELEASE.
3. PRESS 9 - 9 - 0.
4. PRESS 1, carefully COUNT the number of blinks. (1st digit)
5. PRESS 2, carefully COUNT the number of blinks. (2st digit)
6. PRESS 3, carefully COUNT the number of blinks. (3st digit)
7. PRESS 4, carefully COUNT the number of blinks. (4st digit)
8. When your device turns OFF, PRESS the SETUP button and RELEASE it to lock in the code for your device.

If the remote DOES NOT blink it means the number is 0. This is your 4-digit setup code.

I sure appreciate it.

I'm not at the point where I really have to have a receiver yet as I'm still working on my theater room but it's been really tempting to go ahead and get it.My Sony I've had for only about 3 years crapped out on me. Well not entirely, but the center channel went south. Had to set it to center "no". Can't bear it much longer.

If this is a backlit remote, how do you get it to light up? The only key I have that lights up it the "Receiver" key.

Yes the A2 is included but since I don't know the specs I don't know to what extent it will be upgraded.

go here and work your way down: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=894428

search for firmware.

Edit: You better check this one out yourself, I may misread A2 for A20. I hope there's good news in there for you.

I don't think the A2 is included. It only does 1080i not 1080p. I think the 24 fps is related to 1080p output.

If this is a backlit remote, how do you get it to light up? The only key I have that lights up it the "Receiver" key.

on the right side of the remote there is a button that says "light" on it.

scarecorw420

You sounds like you have the new panasonic bd10ak. Do you?
I have one also, this made me decided to buy the 705.

Thanks,
PeterHi rutlian, jeez this thread moves fast... 2 whole pages of responses since i checked yesterday. My DVD player is quite an old Panasonic... model RV32. It only has component video out, and optical audio. As mentioned by others helping me with my problem, my DVD player only puts out 2 ch PCM, not multi ch, because it doesnt have HDMI etc. So my problem with listening modes etc may not apply to your situation.

I plan on getting a new DVD player with HDMI, upscaling, multi channel audio analog outputs, DVD-A and SACD capability soon. I think ill be going for the pioneer DVD-600 model at this stage


Back to the listening modes... from the responses to my questions in this thread, it sounds like the listening modes are there to "create" surround channels from sources that dont have them already. But to my ears, the listening modes also change the way things sound to some degree, which is why i wanted to be able to try many different listening modes on my SD DVDs to find the ones i liked the most. So are my ears tricking me, and all the Neural/PLII/etc modes do is create rear channels, or do they also set equaliser settings, to create different sound?

I also had a question with the learning remote. I input a Sony code to control my TV (its a 68cm Sony CRT - flat panel TV is next on the list though!). When the remote is in "TV mode", all the buttons work as expected... number input, volume, channel, standby and on etc. But my problem is with the specific TV section at the top right of the remote, that should control the TV no matter what mode the remote is in. Most buttons here work: channel +/-, volume +/-, input select. But the specific TV on/off button only turns the TV off, but not back on again. And that button is not available for learning specific commands to either. Weird thing is, the actual TV remote itself has a toggle button (not discrete buttons).

Annoying because all i need to do to the TV is turn it on and off. Dont need volume or channel control as it always stays on the component input and volume is always muted. So currently to turn it on, i have to put the remote in TV mode and use the main On button. Id really like to use the specific TV on/off button, so i dont have to change the remote out of Receiver/DVBD/CableSat mode, just for that one function.

Any ideas? Pretty sure i already tried all Sony remote codes in the manual, and no dice :(

I also had a question with the learning remote. I input a Sony code to control my TV (its a 68cm Sony CRT - flat panel TV is next on the list though!). When the remote is in "TV mode", all the buttons work as expected... number input, volume, channel, standby and on etc. But my problem is with the specific TV section at the top right of the remote, that should control the TV no matter what mode the remote is in. Most buttons here work: channel +/-, volume +/-, input select. But the specific TV on/off button only turns the TV off, but not back on again. And that button is not available for learning specific commands to either. Weird thing is, the actual TV remote itself has a toggle button (not discrete buttons).

Annoying because all i need to do to the TV is turn it on and off. Dont need volume or channel control as it always stays on the component input and volume is always muted. So currently to turn it on, i have to put the remote in TV mode and use the main On button. Id really like to use the specific TV on/off button, so i dont have to change the remote out of Receiver/DVBD/CableSat mode, just for that one function.

Any ideas? Pretty sure i already tried all Sony remote codes in the manual, and no dice :(

I actually have the same problem with my Sony 42" LCD. It is pretty annoying, even when using macros to turn the TV on. Turning it off or changing inputs needs the TV mode selected. I'd love some help too :) My old Onkyo 504 didn't have this problem :(

The */2, 1/0 etc are Dolby speak. Check out the Dolby site. What you will find is that */2 means 2 rear channels and any front arrangement so 5.1. Except -*/2 means over 5.1, therefore 6.1, 7.1 etc. and so on.

I started to do a long write up on this but, the dolby website has this stuff very clearly explained, including very lucid flow diagrams.Sorry for the multiple posts in a row, but im reading/replying as i go :)

I had a look on the dolby site but cant find specific reference to these terminologies */2, 1/0 1+1 and so on. No joy searching for those terms either, as their search engine finds anything with a 1 or 2 in it etc.

You wouldnt have some specific links by any chance?

I have the exact same problem with my Mitsubishi tv - 52" DLP. will turn it off but not back on unless i specifically put it into tv mode. weird and somewhat annoying, i agree.

I actually have the same problem with my Sony 42" LCD. It is pretty annoying, even when using macros to turn the TV on. Turning it off or changing inputs needs the TV mode selected. I'd love some help too :) My old Onkyo 504 didn't have this problem :(Everything else in the "tv section" at top right of the remote works for me (including switching inputs). It's only the tv specific on/off button that doesnt.

Annoying that they dont let you "learn" a command onto this button though. I guess that may be a technical limitation due to the fact that those buttons always control the tv no matter which mode the remote is in... so if it was possible to learn to them, then that would have to be done for each remote mode.

Nevertheless it's quite annoying! I have a macro set up to turn everything on and everything off, but the problem with macros is if a device is already on or off, it gets toggled and it all gets out of sequence. ultimately id like to get a logitech harmony, so i dont have these problems.

That's another point... it seems the ON and STANDBY buttons when in TV mode will both perform the normal on/off toggle operation, whereas the tv on/off button in the tv section seems to be a discrete OFF only. This means even if i set up a macro that switches to TV mode then uses the on or standby button appropriately, it can mess up if the tv was already on/off.

Weird though, that they use the toggle command for both ON and STANDBY buttons in tv mode, but a discrete OFF command for the TOGGLE button in the tv section

Really!! Are you able to turn the 705 on & off? If so, you're my man. I sure can't do it. Do me a favor, can you. Here's the instructions on how to get the code you have in there for AUX.

1. PRESS the device (TV,VCR,CABLE, AUD, etc.) button - RELEASE
2. PRESS and HOLD the SETUP button until the red LED for the selected device flashes twice, then RELEASE.
3. PRESS 9 - 9 - 0.
4. PRESS 1, carefully COUNT the number of blinks. (1st digit)
5. PRESS 2, carefully COUNT the number of blinks. (2st digit)
6. PRESS 3, carefully COUNT the number of blinks. (3st digit)
7. PRESS 4, carefully COUNT the number of blinks. (4st digit)
8. When your device turns OFF, PRESS the SETUP button and RELEASE it to lock in the code for your device.

If the remote DOES NOT blink it means the number is 0. This is your 4-digit setup code.

I sure appreciate it.

I can turn power on ...but not power off... however, i do have receiver volume and mute control though through the comcrap remote.

This receiver is wacky the way it needs 2 seperate buttons for power on and standby off... 1st time I have seen something like that on a chunk of equipment. Guess I can add it to the list of minor pet peeves of this receiver.

So i will still be using my receiver remote to macro everything on and macro everything off... then switch to the comcrap for channel/volume control... the joys of remotes!

PS: I mentioned the code I was using in previous post "0135" I dont know if this will work with your remote or not.

I actually have the same problem with my Sony 42" LCD. It is pretty annoying, even when using macros to turn the TV on. Turning it off or changing inputs needs the TV mode selected. I'd love some help too :) My old Onkyo 504 didn't have this problem :(

I got a 52" Sony Bravia XBR3 LCD.. I can turn on and turn off all my equipment via the Onkyo remote macros (including tv) with no problem.

When you made your macro did you select your tv device and click the lil standby button (for off) as part of the turn off macro sequence? That Onkyo remote is wacky the way its setup... if you click Power ON for the off sequence it wont work for it, you have to click standby.

I am not sure if this is what you are doing already or if there is another problem. Just hoping in being that we both have Sony LCD's and I am not getting any errors with Macro Off sequence on my end.

I only quoted part of it, but in general i thought this was some of the thoughts/concerns I had had as well. Of course, I'm pretty much a noob and have bought into most of it for the most part and have myself convinced that I NEED a Hsu or SVS sub to compliment my new system, even though I've never heard either.

on the other hand, if you don't have access or the ability to audition all these brands, and if you are wanting an opinion from a LOT of people and just want to make sure you get a good sound, what's wrong with it? i mean, most people just want as good of a system as they can get for their budget with the lowest likelihood of being disappointed. I think these forums do do that, even if they miss other possible gems that may also fit the bill.

Agreed, these forums do that job and then some. Its best audiophile forum on inet that I know of.

I lost sight of my point in that original post. Which was... for 1200 bucks... + or - another 300 or so. You can gain access to a whole lot of quality speaker brands. In addition, for that price you can find higher quality speakers on discounts and scratch and dent sales that come in at the same price or way less delivering 7.1 setup at equal or better quality.

Took the plunge a couple of days ago and ordered this receiver from J&R. Thought I was going to have to wait a long time since it was backordered.

Well it shipped today! Should get here next week. Can't wait.

I don't think the A2 is included. It only does 1080i not 1080p. I think the 24 fps is related to 1080p output.

I am hoping about the audio codecs don't really care about the 24 fps because my display (hd1000u) is 720p/1080i only. It would be nice if they include a2 for the dts ma and dolby truhd with whatever firmware is coming

I can turn power on ...but not power off... however, i do have receiver volume and mute control though through the comcrap remote.

This receiver is wacky the way it needs 2 seperate buttons for power on and standby off... 1st time I have seen something like that on a chunk of equipment. Guess I can add it to the list of minor pet peeves of this receiver.

So i will still be using my receiver remote to macro everything on and macro everything off... then switch to the comcrap for channel/volume control... the joys of remotes!

PS: I mentioned the code I was using in previous post "0135" I dont know if this will work with your remote or not.

Thanks woots. Thats the same result I get with "0135". Actually there are three power codes. ON, OFF, TOGGLE ON/OFF. The Toggle doesn't seem to be in the database for the One for All. I guess I'll have to pick up a cheapo learning remote for She Who Must Be Obeyed, because in no way is she going to use the Harmony. Oh well, nice try, thanks again.

Thanks woots. Thats the same result I get with "0135". Actually there are three power codes. ON, OFF, TOGGLE ON/OFF. The Toggle doesn't seem to be in the database for the One for All. I guess I'll have to pick up a cheapo learning remote for She Who Must Be Obeyed, because in no way is she going to use the Harmony. Oh well, nice try, thanks again.
she refuses to use the harmony, or you dont want her to? My gf is now super keen on getting a harmony after me explaining how/why we should

Sorry for the multiple posts in a row, but im reading/replying as i go :)

I had a look on the dolby site but cant find specific reference to these terminologies */2, 1/0 1+1 and so on. No joy searching for those terms either, as their search engine finds anything with a 1 or 2 in it etc.

You wouldnt have some specific links by any chance?

You need to get into the "white papers" at the Dolby site. I don't have the slightest idea why Onkyo would use such an obscure nomenclature in a user handbook, but here's one reference to it.

http://www.dolby.com/assets/pdf/tech_library/133_m.ch.0002.DP569Guide_Chart.QuickStart.pdf
You'll see this chart:
Channel Mode
This parameter defines the number of full bandwidth audio
channels being encoded. Available modes depend upon the
selected Data Rate and Sample Rate parameters. The Data Rate
parameter can be manually adjusted from 56 to 640 kbps, or if
Automatic is selected, the appropriate data rate for the desired
channel mode is automatically set.
The available parameters are:
• 1+1 Dual Mono (Ch. 1, Ch. 2 encoded)
Note: 1+1 is not valid for DTV or DVD.
• 1/0 Mono (C encoded, Auto = 96 kbps)
• 2/0 Stereo (L/R or Lt/Rt; Auto = 192 kbps)
• 3/0 (L, C, R; Auto = 256 kbps)
• 2/1 (L, R, Ls; Auto = 256 kbps)
• 3/1 (L, C, R, Ls; Auto = 320 kbps)
• 2/2 (L, R ,Ls, Rs; Auto = 320 kbps)
• 3/2 (L, C, R, Ls, Rs; Auto = 384 kbps or 448 kbps)

Hi rutlian, jeez this thread moves fast... 2 whole pages of responses since i checked yesterday. My DVD player is quite an old Panasonic... model RV32. It only has component video out, and optical audio. As mentioned by others helping me with my problem, my DVD player only puts out 2 ch PCM, not multi ch, because it doesnt have HDMI etc. So my problem with listening modes etc may not apply to your situation.

I plan on getting a new DVD player with HDMI, upscaling, multi channel audio analog outputs, DVD-A and SACD capability soon. I think ill be going for the pioneer DVD-600 model at this stage


Back to the listening modes... from the responses to my questions in this thread, it sounds like the listening modes are there to "create" surround channels from sources that dont have them already. But to my ears, the listening modes also change the way things sound to some degree, which is why i wanted to be able to try many different listening modes on my SD DVDs to find the ones i liked the most. So are my ears tricking me, and all the Neural/PLII/etc modes do is create rear channels, or do they also set equaliser settings, to create different sound?

Listening modes are a subject of much discussion in many other threads. Some very knowledgeable folks claim that the surround channel creation does not materially affect the overall sound and all you are doing is augmenting the 5.1 material. Dolby makes this claim for DD PLIIx. "Dolby Pro Logic IIx introduces no artificial coloration during playback. It remains true to the artist’s intent."

To me there still has to be a bit of voodoo in it, but what do I know. Neural is a whole different beast. It most certainly does color the output. Neural is actually designed for Neural encoded material. Outside of some broadcast material there is little out there. If you put a 5.1 DD track through Neural, I can guarantee, it sounds different. Not better or worse, just different. I find it interesting.

The best advice. Experiment, its your theater and its an enjoyable exercise.

she refuses to use the harmony, or you dont want her to? My gf is now super keen on getting a harmony after me explaining how/why we should


Bless you my son. I'll send her over with a bottle of scotch and you can train her. The scotch is for you after she leaves. You'll need it.

I actually bought the Harmony for her as I have another programmable remote that works great for me, but its not user friendly for others. I'll tell you how far we've gotten. She yells at me, "Turn on the TV." She thinks this A/V stuff is for lunatics anyhow. TV speakers are fine with her.

I'm sure she would have rather bought flowers for the yard.

Once I saw the Vann's price of $629, I marched back into the local CC with a printout of that price in hand. ... she finally said that the lowest her computer would allow her to go was $637.19, this including tax (589.99+47.20). ... If you hold your ground and they believe you will return your unit, there can be a nice refund as a reward
Well, I tried this. I printed out the final price from Vann's and went down to CC. Told them I wanted to return it unless they matched the final price, with tax. She told me the best she could do is match the price (629) plus tax, which would have given me a $21 refund. So I returned it on the spot, went home and ordered it from Vann's. Unfortunately they refuse to ship to a UPS mailbox (even though it's basically an office address) so I had to pay $11 more and ordered from ******* (640 w/shipping). Still saved $65, so I'm happy, just wish CC had given in on this. Kinda nice to have the convenience of a B&M when things go wrong...

Bless you my son. I'll send her over with a bottle of scotch and you can train her. The scotch is for you after she leaves. You'll need it.

I actually bought the Harmony for her as I have another programmable remote that works great for me, but its not user friendly for others. I'll tell you how far we've gotten. She yells at me, "Turn on the TV." She thinks this A/V stuff is for lunatics anyhow. TV speakers are fine with her.

Funny this statement reminds of my wife. tv speakers are fine with her too.

Well, I tried this. I printed out the final price from Vann's and went down to CC. Told them I wanted to return it unless they matched the final price, with tax. She told me the best she could do is match the price (629) plus tax, which would have given me a $21 refund. So I returned it on the spot, went home and ordered it from Vann's. Unfortunately they refuse to ship to a UPS mailbox (even though it's basically an office address) so I had to pay $11 more and ordered from ******* (640 w/shipping). Still saved $65, so I'm happy, just wish CC had given in on this. Kinda nice to have the convenience of a B&M when things go wrong...

Anyone seen a CC labor day flyer? Any hope of a lower price for the 705?

i have a question. iwas listening to music stereo mode, when i hit direct no bass. does the player have to be set up to put out the bass in that mode? same with pure. running sammy bdp 1200. like i said sub was kicking until direct mode then none until switched back to stereo.

doesnt anyone want to tackle this one?

Not enough info to tackle that one. What were you playing, what was being sent to the AVR, CD or DVD, etc. However, ata glance, if you are coming across with 2 channel material direct mode will give you 2 channel. It isn't a post process, you get out what comes in, if theres no ".1" you may not get any sub activity. Put something in with 5.1 or so and be sure your not in 2 ch PCM and try it.

Anyone seen a CC labor day flyer? Any hope of a lower price for the 705?

Have not seen anything but sure hope I do. It would have to be a pretty good price to offset the tax though. I'm fighting ordering from Crutchfield right now as they currently have the black model back in stock.

Kinda nice to have the convenience of a B&M when things go wrong...What he said.

sorry for lack of info. i was playing cd ac/dc hiway to hell on sammy bdp1200. used to dial in subwoofer after i leveled with spl. was in stereo mode. front mains + sub. when i hit direct, sub dissapeared. didnt know what to think, i just wanted to try direct and pure modes, wanted to see the pretty blue light i guess.

Next time punch your display button a couple of times (before you switch to pure), it will show you whats comin over. A cd in pure/direct would likely give you 2 ch.

I just purchased my 705 and should be here in a week. I have a video hook up question if someone could help. I have a dish network HD satellite receiver that will be connected to the 705 (either Component or hdmi). The 705 will be connected to my HC1500 projector via hdmi. My satellite receiver can be configured to output the Hdef content at 720p or 1080i but does not upconvert the other sd channels (I assume are 480i). If I want to have the 705 upconvert the SD channels I would need to use component from my Sat to the 705? If I do this will it "Pass through" the 720p or 1080i signal. I would appreciate any help with this.

I had my Panny S97 hooked up to the 705 via optical cable, with the analog outs running to the 705 as well for DVD-Audio. I realized today that 1) you have to have it connected via HDMI to get DVD-Audio passed through the Audyssey processing and post-processing, and 2) that I'm a total idiot and the S97 came with a HDMI cable that has been shoved in my closet all this time (which I realized 10 hours after ordering one from Monoprice, dammit).

So I yanked the optical and analog connections and hooked up the HDMI, set it to audio out over HDMI, and all is connecting well to the receiver (and I can now apply Neural THX 7.1 to DVD-A to create a rear surround channel). However, I have a question:

In the S97's setup menu, you had to set the speakers for large/small and set delay times for the analog outputs, and I previously had all speakers to small so it would cross bass over via analog with my Onkyo 603. Do I have to do that with the HDMI connection, or is it just passing full range channels as Multi-channel PCM anyway? Does the 705 apply distance delays and crossover to MCH PCM, and if so, do I need to set the S97's speaker settings all to Large and kill the delays I had there or do those settings even apply when connected via HDMI?

Which receiver do you have? Our DISH VIP-211 does display SD channels at 1080i (I'm watching the Military Channel right now at 1080i as verified by my TV).

on the right side of the remote there is a button that says "light" on it.

Duhhhhh! I should have got the "Remote Control for Dummies" book.

Thanks for the picture. It made it very clear.:eek:

Actually the 705 has a nice big remote and I like the joystick in the middle as it makes it easy to navigate. I will only use it for advanced setup cause I use the Harmony 659 remote which controls everything in the theater including the lights with an X10 controller. The wife and kids like it that they can just push the Watch DVD button or the Watch TV button and it starts everything up without a hassle.

I don't post much on these forums but I read a lot :eek:. I just secured a 705 that is in transit to Canada, first ones to come in at least at the store I shop at and must thank everyone on this thread for all the information. As of now I actually have no questions to ask:) after reading this entire thread and the downloaded manual.

I will be using the 705 with my PS3 and Shaw Cable HDPVR both via HDMI, I'm saving the 3rd HDMI for a future HD-DVD player if this war keeps going much longer.

The 705 is $1099 Cdn which is way overpriced for our 94cents to 1USD and with Onkyo's ban on US stores shipping to Canada plus warrenty issues I will take a hit to get this reciever. I will note for other Canadians that deals can be had already. PM if you want the price I was quoted and the store (you can guess the store if you know which chain caries Onkyo in Canada...hint... it starts with a V).

Anyways, my 705 will be here by Tuesday!! If I have any questions once I get it I know where to go. Last, have any other Canadians already got a 705 (w/o going thru the US)??

Duhhhhh! I should have got the "Remote Control for Dummies" book.

Thanks for the picture. It made it very clear.:eek:



You're welcome. :)

I just purchased my 705 and should be here in a week. I have a video hook up question if someone could help. I have a dish network HD satellite receiver that will be connected to the 705 (either Component or hdmi). The 705 will be connected to my HC1500 projector via hdmi. My satellite receiver can be configured to output the Hdef content at 720p or 1080i but does not upconvert the other sd channels (I assume are 480i). If I want to have the 705 upconvert the SD channels I would need to use component from my Sat to the 705? If I do this will it "Pass through" the 720p or 1080i signal. I would appreciate any help with this.
whatever you put via component will be scaled to 480P (or 720P if you set that option in the "secret" menu). That includes downscaling a 1080i signal over component to 480/720P as well.

If you wanted to have the 1080i content pass through untouched, you would need to use HDMI. But then that wouldnt upscale any of the lower resolutions either. You might need to use component for that (and run a component run to your projector as well). Otherwise maybe just use component for the sat box, set the sat box to output HD channels at 720P, and set the onkyo to 720P upscale over HDMI, which would give you everything at 720P

whatever you put via component will be scaled to 480P (or 720P if you set that option in the "secret" menu). That includes downscaling a 1080i signal over component to 480/720P as well.

If you wanted to have the 1080i content pass through untouched, you would need to use HDMI. But then that wouldnt upscale any of the lower resolutions either. You might need to use component for that (and run a component run to your projector as well). Otherwise maybe just use component for the sat box, set the sat box to output HD channels at 720P, and set the onkyo to 720P upscale over HDMI, which would give you everything at 720PThanks Scrarecrow, I hear there is not much of a difference between 1080i and 720p is this true? and why does onkyo have a "secret" menu????????????

Which receiver do you have? Our DISH VIP-211 does display SD channels at 1080i (I'm watching the Military Channel right now at 1080i as verified by my TV).Royce, I do have the vip-211 but my SD channels don't look very good. Is there a menu I am missing. I only see one for the HD channel output 720p/1080i.

Can anyone recommend a good blu ray movie (and portion of that movie) that has really good imaging of all the surround channels? Most the movies I watch I either get hammered from the front audio or from all directions of 7.1 at once. Very few movies I am detecting good separation from the movies audio track.

Best effect I have had to date is from FPS styled video games where something is making a noise and I pan the camera around the room and it stays in proper placement.

I am trying to test my speaker placement and settings for imaging and I can't find any good source material to do so.

Ok, i'm having a problem getting my receiver to output like I think it should. I'm pretty sure i'm missing a basic link but not sure what it is....

I have my 705 hooked to my cox cable box via hdmi, as I do my PS3, and then of course the 705 out to my tv via hdmi. unfortunately right now my tv is only a 1080i/720p. the HD content that i have coming from the cable box seems to all be downconverted to 720p, but it doesn't seem to be upconverting to 420p from 420i, and certainly not to 720p. I tried the "secret menu" (see below for the person who asked about it) but still no dice. thoughts on the basic thing i might be missing? is there something on the cable box i need to change? it seems that i would almost be better off connecting via component and then turning off the menu for the 1080i input, which just doesn't' seem right.
at the same time, when i play a movie on the ps3 it seems to play at 1080i and not be downconverted.....

From post 241 (and others)
Hidden Menu.

Remember, you have to use the buttons on the AVR, not the remote. Press and hold "AUX" and while you're holding AUX, press standby (Power on/off).

also, has anyone tried the ipod dock? is it worth it? The one review from amazon isn't favorable. wondering if another brand of "universal" dock would be work or be even better.

also, has anyone tried the ipod dock? is it worth it? The one review from amazon isn't favorable. wondering if another brand of "universal" dock would be work or be even better.I'd be interested in this as well. I was thinking of getting it, but am curious as to how useful/functional/user-friendly it is.

Can anyone recommend a good blu ray movie (and portion of that movie) that has really good imaging of all the surround channels? Most the movies I watch I either get hammered from the front audio or from all directions of 7.1 at once. Very few movies I am detecting good separation from the movies audio track.

Best effect I have had to date is from FPS styled video games where something is making a noise and I pan the camera around the room and it stays in proper placement.

I am trying to test my speaker placement and settings for imaging and I can't find any good source material to do so.
i always seem to get good results with u-571, awsome surround. not sure if its on blu-ray though. flyboys good surround in the dogfight seens. also godzilla,remake with mathew brodrick,will give 705 good workout, hope you have good sub. u-571 is a great movie, depth charges will put your system to test. also a good way to find if your windows need recalking. should be mandatory ref. material for ht.

Ok, i'm having a problem getting my receiver to output like I think it should. I'm pretty sure i'm missing a basic link but not sure what it is....

I have my 705 hooked to my cox cable box via hdmi, as I do my PS3, and then of course the 705 out to my tv via hdmi. unfortunately right now my tv is only a 1080i/720p. the HD content that i have coming from the cable box seems to all be downconverted to 720p, but it doesn't seem to be upconverting to 420p from 420i, and certainly not to 720p. I tried the "secret menu" (see below for the person who asked about it) but still no dice. thoughts on the basic thing i might be missing? is there something on the cable box i need to change? it seems that i would almost be better off connecting via component and then turning off the menu for the 1080i input, which just doesn't' seem right.
at the same time, when i play a movie on the ps3 it seems to play at 1080i and not be downconverted.....

From post 241 (and others)
signals over HDMI are left as they are. its only "lesser" component/svideo/composite video that will be up or down converted to 480P (or 720P if set in secret menu)

I just purchased my 705 and should be here in a week. I have a video hook up question if someone could help. I have a dish network HD satellite receiver that will be connected to the 705 (either Component or hdmi). The 705 will be connected to my HC1500 projector via hdmi. My satellite receiver can be configured to output the Hdef content at 720p or 1080i but does not upconvert the other sd channels (I assume are 480i). If I want to have the 705 upconvert the SD channels I would need to use component from my Sat to the 705? If I do this will it "Pass through" the 720p or 1080i signal. I would appreciate any help with this.

Nice choice with the projector, I have the hd1000u I am very happy with it,
just heard about this HC1500 just recently.

I just purchased my 705 and should be here in a week. I have a video hook up question if someone could help. I have a dish network HD satellite receiver that will be connected to the 705 (either Component or hdmi). The 705 will be connected to my HC1500 projector via hdmi. My satellite receiver can be configured to output the Hdef content at 720p or 1080i but does not upconvert the other sd channels (I assume are 480i). If I want to have the 705 upconvert the SD channels I would need to use component from my Sat to the 705? If I do this will it "Pass through" the 720p or 1080i signal. I would appreciate any help with this.

Hi there welcome to this thread, I have the hd1000u and what I did with my comcast digital box is I connected it direct to the projector and set the cable resolution to 1080i I can also do it with 720p but I prefer 1080i I believe the HC1500 should do the upconverts as well. I did not use the component from 705 then to my hd1000u I think it is better to connect it direct to the projector. BTW nice choice with the PJ. I had my hd1000u for about 6 months now and put about 300 hrs so far so good. Goodluck

I'd be interested in this as well. I was thinking of getting it, but am curious as to how useful/functional/user-friendly it is.

If they didn't require it to sit in that little charge base and just allowed a straight cable connect I'd probably be into it. I got my ipod sitting in a lil clear acrylic protector cocoon thing.. wont allow those kinda base chargers.

I just run my mp3s via a very long optical cable coming off my computer. Less then ideal... I have been long tempted to get one of those wifi mps component server thingys to hook up to the receiver.

Decided to buy a new remote so I bought a Harmony 880 of amazon tonight. Hope the thing doesn't break after 1 year like I read on so many "hate" reviews. I guess its just luck of the draw. I heard that some people get lucky after 1 year+ of ownership on them and they never broke.

At least I will be able to control all my components easier again. I need to buy that lil RF adapter for the PS3 since the remote is bluetooth. Anyone here ever go that route?

Decided to buy a new remote so I bought a Harmony 880 of amazon tonight. Hope the thing doesn't break after 1 year like I read on so many "hate" reviews. I guess its just luck of the draw. I heard that some people get lucky after 1 year+ of ownership on them and they never broke.

At least I will be able to control all my components easier again. I need to buy that lil RF adapter for the PS3 since the remote is bluetooth. Anyone here ever go that route?

Yes I have done exactly what you are going to do. I do love the 880 for everyday use... watching movies, TV, games, whatever. But if I have to mess with settings, I go for the equipments remotes... ESPECIALLY the 705s. Moving around the device menu is cumbersome, at best, for tweaking. The 880 doesn't have all of the functionality of the 705 remote either. Like I said though, I love it for everyday use and you will too. Its great looking IMO and easy to set up using the software. Those people that say its hard to program are just morons. It really can't get any simpler than they have it.

Justin

I've decided on either a 905 or an Integra 9.8 for my home theater but I'm really interested in getting a 705 for my main listening area (my office - no kids :)). As far as sound quality goes how do you owners out there rate the 705? In that area I spend 80% of my time listening to music and only about 20% on movies/computer. Any comments are appreciated!

OK, I'm a moron with an 880. Logitech forces you into their mindset via the programming "wizard" interface and "activities." I still think in "device" mode. Perhaps one day, when they make the promised changes to add macros and other goodies I'll have a different view. Its not difficult to program, true, but I like more control over the programming detail.

I've decided on either a 905 or an Integra 9.8 for my home theater but I'm really interested in getting a 705 for my main listening area (my office - no kids :)). As far as sound quality goes how do you owners out there rate the 705? In that area I spend 80% of my time listening to music and only about 20% on movies/computer. Any comments are appreciated!

I think its very musical, I don't detect any coloration or excessive brightness, pretty neutral in my book. Its probably the right size for a home office, good choice.

Okay, I think I finally thought of a good question, actually I just want a confirmation if I understand this right....My HDPVR cablebox currently sends 480i for SD and 1080i/720p(depending on the channel) for HD both via HDMI to my Sony A2000 1080p TV. The Tv does a fairly good job at scaling the 480i to 1080p (way better than the cable box does).

So as I understand it, if I run this same HDMI cable through my soon to be 705 and keep these settings then nothing will change on SD or HD? Correct? If I find that the 705s scaler is better than my TV's scaler, then I would have to hook both HDMI and component up and watch SD and HD on seperate inputs of the 705, component for SD and set the 705 to scale to 720p and then of course the TV would have to scale again to 1080p as it does for all signals...Correct?

I'm guessing it will probably be better to just run pure HDMI passthrough of the 480i and HD resolutions and continue letting my TV scale as it does now. Otherwise, I'd be getting two devices to scale (705 doing 480i to 720p, and TV doing 720p to 1080p) which just seems like to many cooks in the kitchen and won't give a better image.

Last can someone confirm that the 705 won't scale 480i via HDMI, I think you need the 875 or higher with the REON to do this....Correct??

Thanks to anyone who can tell me if my thinking is right or wrong:)

OK, I'm a moron with an 880. Logitech forces you into their mindset via the programming "wizard" interface and "activities." I still think in "device" mode. Perhaps one day, when they make the promised changes to add macros and other goodies I'll have a different view. Its not difficult to program, true, but I like more control over the programming detail.

Harmony 880 doesn't have any macros?????? :mad:

Or you just aren't sure know how to program them yourself?

No not yet, macros are coming soon per the Harmony website. But, if you know something I don't, please share. Amazon had a wicked price for it. Couldn't pass it up.

I'm also currently looking for the "perfect remote" -- going between IR and RF, Harmony and URC -- rather than risk letting this thread get as fat as the anticipation thread, I recommend looking at other areas for the pros/cons . . . one suggestion:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=799027

I think its very musical, I don't detect any coloration or excessive brightness, pretty neutral in my book. Its probably the right size for a home office, good choice.

Ok, great glad to hear that. Thanks!

Okay, I think I finally thought of a good question, actually I just want a confirmation if I understand this right....My HDPVR cablebox currently sends 480i for SD and 1080i/720p(depending on the channel) for HD both via HDMI to my Sony A2000 1080p TV. The Tv does a fairly good job at scaling the 480i to 1080p (way better than the cable box does).

So as I understand it, if I run this same HDMI cable through my soon to be 705 and keep these settings then nothing will change on SD or HD? Correct? If I find that the 705s scaler is better than my TV's scaler, then I would have to hook both HDMI and component up and watch SD and HD on seperate inputs of the 705, component for SD and set the 705 to scale to 720p and then of course the TV would have to scale again to 1080p as it does for all signals...Correct?

I'm guessing it will probably be better to just run pure HDMI passthrough of the 480i and HD resolutions and continue letting my TV scale as it does now. Otherwise, I'd be getting two devices to scale (705 doing 480i to 720p, and TV doing 720p to 1080p) which just seems like to many cooks in the kitchen and won't give a better image.

Last can someone confirm that the 705 won't scale 480i via HDMI, I think you need the 875 or higher with the REON to do this....Correct??

Thanks to anyone who can tell me if my thinking is right or wrong:)

You are correct with the above statements. Don't mess with having to change inputs on the 705 to watch SD versus HD. If you are happy with your current scaling just use the simpler HDMI connection and let your cable box continue to do the scaling. It is real nice to just hookup your components with just one cable. That was the promise of HDMI. Sweet.

You are correct, the 705 will not upscale 480i from HDMI to HDMI.

No not yet, macros are coming soon per the Harmony website. But, if you know something I don't, please share. Amazon had a wicked price for it. Couldn't pass it up.

I got some 880 people telling me all the harmony remote allow macros. I get my 880 from amazon the middle of next week (slowness due to labor day). I am Mr. "Programmy Tweaky" guy... so if they got macros in that remote I WILL find them! :D

I will let you know afterwards mrgribbles. Even if I gotta hack that remote! It would also be cool finding a way to overwrite my own graphics icons and GUI for the lil screen. Wonder if anyone has done that with those hamrony remotes yet.
:)

BTW: For those interested in 880/890 Harmony remote I also have a thread going trying to flesh out the truth to the negative reviews I read on amazon...... "Harmony 880/890 deserves its bad rep?" (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=11487812#post11487812)