Hey guys, just wanted to thank you for all the great and thoughtful responses you guys have alot of great points.

First i do have a pretty large room so that could definitly part of it. Is is a straight up rectangle at 18 ft by 20 ft. My seats are about 12 feet form the center channel and 4 ft from the back wall.

I would like to upgrade to the csi5 but it is too deep for my media cabinet. Part of the problem with the cs2 was the fact that the bass port in the back was a quater of an inch from back of the cabinet. I am thinking about getting the new csi a4, the tweeter near me says they are getting one in a couple of weeks.

The post about the in wall being the cause of the strange rear levels makes alot of sense. I would have gotten stand alone rears but the wife vetoed that idea. To be perfectly honest i would have taken the money we invested in new furniture and spent it all on electronics uut what are you gonna do. I have to keep my woman happy, no matter how much joy a 10,000 dollar surround setup would give me.

I am going downstairs to implent your advice and i will let you know how it goes.

Good 1st step would be to get some speakers and speaker wire! You've purchased a 7.1 receiver, so you can shop for a set of matching speakers in that configuration (Right, Left, Center, Surrounds, Back Surrounds, and Sub).

Buy enough wiring (Home Depot is fine) to reach between all the speakers and the receiver. Also buy a sub cable long enough to reach between where you plan to place the receiver and the sub.

You must have some source, such as cable tv or a dvd player. If not, you'll need a source as well.

Once you get these basic items, let people here know what you got and they can give you more "baby steps".

Thanks for the quick reply. I ordered 12AWG Enhanced Loud Oxygen-Free Copper Speaker Cable - 100ft from monoprice, do i need to order banana plugs also??

BTW, i have philips dvp5962 dvd player and basic dish network, only composite no HD for dish network. I also have a vcr. regarding speakers what speakers i need to buy, i dont want to drill any holes to do inwall installation. book shelf or floor standing. 500usd is the limit for speakers.

First i do have a pretty large room so that could definitly part of it. Is is a straight up rectangle at 18 ft by 20 ft. My seats are about 12 feet form the center channel and 4 ft from the back wall.

I would like to upgrade to the csi5 but it is too deep for my media cabinet. Part of the problem with the cs2 was the fact that the bass port in the back was a quater of an inch from back of the cabinet. I am thinking about getting the new csi a4, the tweeter near me says they are getting one in a couple of weeks.

A few things:
1) Given your large room size and apparent preference for higher levels, a THX Select 2 receiver may not be enough for you. For that room size, an Ultra 2 receiver would be needed to push near reference leve.

2) Also, considering that room size, you're expecting an awful lot out of those speakers.

3) The biggest glaring thing I notice: You're putting a speaker in media cabinet. If I'm being honest, I don't think you will ever get a good sound out of it. Cabinets almost always make speakers sound horrible. I recommend getting a stand to go in front of the cabinet, which I can almost guarantee will make it sound light years better. Remember - Audyssey can do wonders with a proper setup, but it can't work miracles if you're placing speakers in acoustically horrible positions.

Question about the 705:

I'm using a poweramp, which has a 12V trigger in, and can normally only be turned on from the main switch. The Onkyo has a 12V trigger output, so I was hoping to use it to turn on the poweramp every time the 705 is on (so that I wouldn'thave to get up and turn the poweramp on/off all the time).

Is this possible? I read from the manual that the 12V trigger is used with zone 2.

Anyone have experience? I'm hoping to get the 705 this week.

A few things:
1) Given your large room size and apparent preference for higher levels, a THX Select 2 receiver may not be enough for you. For that room size, an Ultra 2 receiver would be needed to push near reference leve.

2) Also, considering that room size, you're expecting an awful lot out of those speakers.

3) The biggest glaring thing I notice: You're putting a speaker in media cabinet. If I'm being honest, I don't think you will ever get a good sound out of it. Cabinets almost always make speakers sound horrible. I recommend getting a stand to go in front of the cabinet, which I can almost guarantee will make it sound light years better. Remember - Audyssey can do wonders with a proper setup, but it can't work miracles if you're placing speakers in acoustically horrible positions.

I totally agree with the whole media cabinet thing. Alot of times i can hear it vibrating abd distorting the sound. However it is a compromise i had to make with the wife in order to get the new setup. She doesn't like the look look of speakers on stands and raw electronics. She wants everything hidden. Unfortunatly i have to live with it. It is a great point though, and its therefore probably not worth getting a more expensive receiver if the cabinet is just going to distort the sound.

I still think the center channel doesn't sound like it should, i think i am just going to keep on experimenting. I am going to try the new csi a4 when it comes to a local retailer and if that doesn't work i may try the focal's i heard at my local tweeter. I am trying a new setup on audessey, with a tri pod this time. It is calculating right now, i 'll let you guys know how it sounds.

Wow, what a difference the tripod makes. I really didn't think placing the mic on the head rest of my recliner would affect the setup that much. Now with the tripod it set the db levels at a much more resonable spot

L/R- 0

C- -2

Rb- 0

Lb- 1

sub- -5

I am still a little confused at the crossover frequency's it put both the L/R and center at full band w/ double bass on. I thought the csi 3 had a crossover at around 50 or 60, and i thought the rti 4 could at least handle some bass.

I am gonna watch the blu-ray of 28 weeks later and see how it sounds.

I still think the center channel doesn't sound like it should, i think i am just going to keep on experimenting. I am going to try the new csi a4 when it comes to a local retailer and if that doesn't work i may try the focal's i heard at my local tweeter. I am trying a new setup on audessey, with a tri pod this time. It is calculating right now, i 'll let you guys know how it sounds.

The CSi A4 looks like it uses the same tweeter and has roughly the same specs outside of newer drivers. I wouldn't expect to hear much of a difference between that and the CSi3 as far as strained dialogue goes.

The tripod should help you out with the auto-setup. A page or so back, I posted some tips on proper use. I strongly recommend going through ALL EIGHT of the positions with Audyssey. 1st position should be your main center seat, 2nd 3+ feet to the right (facing the screen), 3rd 3+ feet to left of center, all with the tripod set up in the seats, mic pointed straight up at the ceiling and height slightly above the headrest of the couch/seat. Then take 3 more readings about 6" in front of your couch/seat in the same center, left, right positions. The remaining two positions are up to you, but if have a large seating area, cover any other likely positions. Taking positions 4 through 6 further into the room gives it more to work with as far as subwoofer response, since response differs the further you get from room boundaries.

Im looking at the setup menu. Under source setup and then A/V sync. Theres are numbers like 40msec. What is this first of all, and what should it be set at. It was at 40 when i first set the reciver up. Thanks

I am still a little confused at the crossover frequency's it put both the L/R and center at full band w/ double bass on. I thought the csi 3 had a crossover at around 50 or 60, and i thought the rti 4 could at least handle some bass.

Ignore Audyssey's detected crossover settings. As stated previously in the thread, the Onkyo implementation has issues. After you run Audyssey, manually set all of them to 80Hz. I'm basing that on your speakers' -3dB point being close to 59Hz, so a 80Hz crossover should give a nice seamless transition without any localization of the subwoofer. Doing so won't significantly affect equalization.

You weren't running them full band before, were you? If so, that's a STRONG suspect for why you were hearing strained dialogue. Crossing them over lets your sub's amp handle the low end, giving the receiver more headroom for the other channels (which will prevent distortion).

Ignore Audyssey's detected crossover settings. As stated previously in the thread, the Onkyo implementation has issues. After you run Audyssey, manually set all of them to 80Hz. I'm basing that on your speakers' -3dB point being close to 59Hz, so a 80Hz crossover should give a nice seamless transition without any localization of the subwoofer. Doing so won't significantly affect equalization.

You weren't running them full band before, were you? If so, that's a STRONG suspect for why you were hearing strained dialogue. Crossing them over lets your sub's amp handle the low end, giving the receiver more headroom for the other channels (which will prevent distortion).

If i set the crossovers to 80 i should turn bouble bass off right?

If i set the crossovers to 80 i should turn bouble bass off right?

Nevermind, that was stupid it does it automatically.

Ignore Audyssey's detected crossover settings. As stated previously in the thread, the Onkyo implementation has issues. After you run Audyssey, manually set all of them to 80Hz. I'm basing that on your speakers' -3dB point being close to 59Hz, so a 80Hz crossover should give a nice seamless transition without any localization of the subwoofer. Doing so won't significantly affect equalization.

You weren't running them full band before, were you? If so, that's a STRONG suspect for why you were hearing strained dialogue. Crossing them over lets your sub's amp handle the low end, giving the receiver more headroom for the other channels (which will prevent distortion).

In general, how should one determine their speaker's crossover? I'm running with Infinity TSS450 5.1 speakers system + 2 extra SAT450's(exact same speakers as what is in the set), for a 7.1 setup. Audyssey came up with a crossover of 150Hz, which I thought was high.

If i set the crossovers to 80 i should turn bouble bass off right?

If you set all the crossovers to 80, Double Bass will automatically be disabled and will gray out in the on-screen options. Double Bass only applies when your mains are full band; it sends bass to both the mains and sub.

In general, how should one determine their speaker's crossover? I'm running with Infinity TSS450 5.1 speakers system + 2 extra SAT450's(exact same speakers as what is in the set), for a 7.1 setup. Audyssey came up with a crossover of 150Hz, which I thought was high.

There's no hard fast rule, but I normally look at the speaker's frequency response and add about 20 to the -3dB point to give it a smooth rolloff. The problem in your case is that, according to Infinity's website, your speakers' low end is 150Hz... which means Audyssey got it right and I would leave it where it is. 150Hz puts you in the range where your subwoofer will be easy to localize, meaning bass will sound like it's coming from the sub and not from the individual channels. Unfortunately, that's what you get with small satellites.

Thanx for the info Jeremy.

Quote:
Originally Posted by johni
I received my 705 yesterday and have a couple of questions re sub woofer.

Is it normal to hear crackling from the powered sub with a high level input? When I first ran Audyssey it did not detect my sub because I had the sub on the wrong connection. So, after putting sub cable into proper connection, I went into speaker setup and manually set sub to yes. When I went to set sub level calibration the sub would crackle. The crackling went away only after setting the level below -7. Do I have a bad sub?

Second, how can I use speaker wire for powered sub? Is there a connector that will take the + & - from speaker wires and convert to RCA connection? My house has speaker wires in walls behind drywall. I'd like to use the speaker wire to connect the powered sub but it looks like the only way to connect powered sub is with RCA connection on the 705.



You might have an issue with the gain being too high on your sub and your amp clipping. Try backing down the gain a bit and re-running the calibration until you get the subwoofer trim closer to 0. This keeps the voltage of the pre-out nearer to where it's supposed to be. If that doesn't help with the crackling, it could be an issue with the subwoofer output on the receiver... but I would lean toward the former as being far more likely.

Of course, there's always the possibility that your sub amp is on its way out. What sub do you have? Maybe I can give a little more specific info if I know the make/model.

As far as running the line-level feed through speaker-level wiring: Since the speaker wire is likely not shielded as well, you may end up with noise or humming from electrical interference. Were it me, I would buy new RCA wallplates and tie a RCA cable to the existing wires to drag it through the wall. However, you could always buy solderable RCA male connectors from Radio Shack and hook wire up to try it.

Jeremy,
Thanks for your response. I tried soldering RCA male connectors (just cut up old cable) but, as you predicted, I get humming. So I'm just running standard RCA audio cable. I don't think dragging RCA cable through the wall with the existing speaker wire is going to work - it's about 20 feet and around two corners. If I get ambitious, I may reposition the sub for a shorter run and run RCA audio cable in wall.

I reran Audyssey and it set the sub level at 0; however, I still get some crackling (not sure what the correct technical term is) when the sub is called upon for moderately high output. So, I've backed off the 705 calibration level again to -7. I've got the sub volume at 50% and the crossover frequency at 80. The only other adjustment on the sub is for Phase (normal/rev) which I've set at normal.

I'm beginning to think I may have a bad sub. But, if you have any other suggestions, let me know. The sub is made by KLH Audio Systems, model ASW-100, 100 watt, response 30-200 Hz.

Thanks for your help.

Thanks for your help; I've read similar advice on resolving speaker buzz, but because it varies with volume (to the point of non-existent) and isn't affected by shaking the speaker wire (as some reported), I was hoping it was normal.:o

1) I'm using an Acoustic Research subwoofer cable - seems to be good quality.

2) Since the hum is at the same level through all speakers, I'm didn't think reducing gain (base boost? or LFE?) on the subwoofer would help. :confused: But I'll try lowering both base boost directly on the subwoofer and LFE on the receiver settings and see if that helps.

3) All components are plugged into the same $125 Dynex surge protector with "Signal Scrubber — professional isolated EMI/RFI noise filter" (http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage.jsp?skuId=6800786&productCategoryId=abcat0107048&type=product&tab=1&id=1091099665894#productdetail). I'll look into how a separate "power conditioner" can help.
EDIT: I think this is a power conditioner, isn't it? :confused:

4)I've gone to great lengths trying to keep all the power cords, A/V cables, and speaker wires separated. At one point, just behind the receiver, the speaker wires do touch the A/V cords, but short of bringing the speaker wires through the front of my cabinet, I don't think this can be helped.:(

All my speaker wire is 16 gauge (according to the wire chart, this is more than enough for my room), some by Acoustic Reasearch and some from Radio Shack. There is a very noticeable difference between these two types of wire, even though they are supposedly the same gauge (the Radio Shack wire is thin enough to feed through the KEF speaker stands, the AR wire is NOT); so I'm skeptical that "all speaker wire is created equal". But since the buzz/hum seems to be the same level for all speakers, I do not think the wire quality is an issue.

EDIT: My husband is watching TV right now and I noticed as I walked into the room that the inactive L/R surround speakers had NO hum whatsoever, even when placing my ear next to them. I cranked up the volume and only then could I hear it, barely (not through the active speakers -- only through the inactive ones). I keep hoping I'm just being too picky.

i've been through a few receivers (lately) and they ALL emit a buzz/hum/hiss when cranked up to about 85-90% and up of maximum volume (i'm using a power conditioner as well). i have a 705 now and the maximum volume i can listen to (without blowing my eardrums off) is between 65 and 72 (absolute volume) depending on the source. without any audio feed from any source i cranked the volume up gradually until it reached max and the buzz didn't get audible until it reached to about 85 (faint), and of course the buzz just got louder as the volume approached 99. i have the equalizer manually set (no frequency set to a negative db level) with all the speaker levels increased between +2 to +4. the buzz is at the same level across all 5 speakers at volumes 85 and up. it does not affect or bother me since i can only listen to volume levels where the buzz/hum/hiss is non-existent.

Yea i reran the audessey every time. I have found i got strange results with the audessey. It always puts my rear speakers at like -8 or -10, less then the fronts, it also puts the sub at -14.

I was thinking the 805 might be better because it has burr brown dac's and almost half the total harmonic distortion. I didn't return the 705 within the 30 days because by the time i got all the compents for my setup it was already 3 weeks after i bought the reciever, then when it didn't sound like i wanted i have kept trying to change the speakers. Maube i am crazy but when i hear the yamaha's or higher end recievers they seem to have a tighter cleaner sound.

I am worrid about the 805 over heating b/c i have to put the reciever in a closed space. My problem with changing the speakers is i have the rears built in. I started with boston acoustics and have already had them ripped out and replaced with the polk rc65i. I now have the csi 3 center and csi 4 for my l/c/r. I would get a nicer l/c/r but they wouldn't match up with my rears

Well if you wanna sell your 705 ill give you half of what you paid for is since i will be pulling the trigger on my Friday morning. But who know maybe yours is defective. It happens. Especially since your the only one with the bad sounds. Sorry.

I reran Audyssey and it set the sub level at 0; however, I still get some crackling (not sure what the correct technical term is) when the sub is called upon for moderately high output. So, I've backed off the 705 calibration level again to -7. I've got the sub volume at 50% and the crossover frequency at 80. The only other adjustment on the sub is for Phase (normal/rev) which I've set at normal.

I'm beginning to think I may have a bad sub. But, if you have any other suggestions, let me know. The sub is made by KLH Audio Systems, model ASW-100, 100 watt, response 30-200 Hz.

Thanks for your help.

Set the crossover on the sub to its highest point (or if you have a DISABLE setting, use that) and let the receiver handle the crossover. The crossover control on the sub can induce a delay that can mess with the subwoofer distance detection in Audyssey. It also cascades with the crossover on the receiver, causing a gap in frequency response.

KLH subs are not the greatest, if we're being honest, so you're probably trying to push it past its limits (which at 100w aren't much). I recommend saving up for something better. If you're looking for a budget sub that will blow that KLH away, you can get a low-end SVS for around $450 that will put a big grin on your face.

I have a SVS PB10 sub that only has a Gain knob and a Phase knob.

What should I be setting each of these to prior to doing the Audessey calibration? About 1/2 way?

Also, if I do a frequency sweep using DVE from 0Hz to 22000Hz, everything for my mains remains even on my dB except between 8000-10000Hz, where it goes up about 6dB and then back down.

If I'm not using the Audessey equalizer settings and want to use my own, should I be reducing the equalizer dB for my front speakers for the 6300Hz setting to get more of an even volume throughout the frequency sweep?

If so, what is the deviant threshold for making an adjustment in the equalizer? 2-3dB or so?

Am I correct in that you can't connect the Fronts in a Bi-Amp configuration if you have a 6.1 setup? The manual says I'll need to use the L/R surround back but I'm using one of them already for my rear center speaker. It seems to me Onkyo should have included rear center speaker binding posts for just this scenario.

Can someone give me sugestion with my situation.
I have a room with pre-install JBL 7.1 speakers and another room (patio) with 2 stereo speakers. I am debating between 605 and 705. I know 705 supports 2 zones but only 5.1 in zone 1 and 2 speakers at zone 2. Can 605 be split in to 5.1 + 2?
Thanks.

I have a SVS PB10 sub that only has a Gain knob and a Phase knob.

What should I be setting each of these to prior to doing the Audessey calibration? About 1/2 way?

Well, no one can really tell you what to set the gain to. I would set it to half-way then run Audyssey. If it sets sub level ridiculously one way or the other (like maybe +/-7), adjust the gain accordingly and rerun it until you end up somewhere between -4 and 0. Values higher than 0 may lean toward clipping the subwoofer output at extreme levels, though this is unlikely.

As far as phase, that's going to be an interesting problem. The phase control is there to ensure that bass arrives at the listening position at the same time as your other speakers. Normally, you would set this to 0 degrees and then tweak accordingly, using bass test tones in the crossover region of your mains to determine if you're getting phase-induced cancellation. 0 degrees is probably going to be roughly correct for you if your sub is located near one of your main speakers. However, the distance settings in the receiver also act to ensure that sound arrives at the listening position at the same time... meaning the subwoofer distance control basically acts like a variable phase control, just not on as precise a level as the continuously variable knob on your sub.

This difference in phase is often why people complain that Audyssey detected their sub at a different distance than its actual physical distance (which can also be exacerbated by placing a sub too close to a wall, etc.). However, what people aren't taking into account is that Audyssey isn't measuring for physical distance - it's measuring for the distance/delay setting that best lines up the phase of the sub to that of the speakers.

There's also another element at play here: Audyssey MultEQ XT performs its equalization in the time domain, meaning it can accurately correct just frequencies affected by phase issues... which is based upon the initial distance setting it determines. For this reason, I don't recommend altering the subwoofer distance that it comes up with if you're going to use the Audyssey EQ'd settings.

Also, because of this complex interaction, disabling the Audyssey equalization and adjusting it manually doesn't allow you to make those changes in the time domain, instead giving you basic broad-range equalization (whereas MultEQ XT can precisely adjust very narrow peaks out of your system).

In other words, if you're disabling Audyssey after the calibration, you will have to get test tones and a SPL meter to determine the best setting for subwoofer phase.

Im looking at the setup menu. Under source setup and then A/V sync. Theres are numbers like 40msec. What is this first of all, and what should it be set at. It was at 40 when i first set the reciver up. Thanks

Im looking at the setup menu. Under source setup and then A/V sync. Theres are numbers like 40msec. What is this first of all, and what should it be set at. It was at 40 when i first set the reciver up. Thanks

That's to synchronize the audio to the video. If you don't notice a difference between voices and people's lips moving on screen, you don't need to adjust it from default. No one can tell you what it objectively SHOULD be because that depends on the other equipment you are using.

Anyone have info on the 12v trigger? Will it work with my poweramp for the main channels? Or is it only for zone 2 or something?

Tonight I noticed that the 705 does something I find highly annoying. My DVD player (an Oppo 981) is connected via HDMI in to the 705, as is my TV (out). What I noticed was that I could turn on the Oppo and the 705, but they wouldn't execute a valid HDMI handshake until I *also* turned on the TV. :mad:

Now why is that? The manual mentions this, but doesn't say why or how to make it so I can listen to CDs via my DVD player without first turning on the TV (turning the TV off after the handshake occurs has no effect on the 705's ability to communicate with the Oppo).

Anybody notice this and/or have a way around it that doesn't involve extra cabling? :confused:

I have a similar issue -- there's a handshake issue with the Series 3 Tivo. Twice in two days, I've turned on the TV, Receiver and Tivo more or less simultaneously (one right after the other), and the Tivo crashed (which is highly annoying, as it takes a good 5 minutes to reboot). I checked out tivocommunity.com, and someone else is having the same problem with a 605. At this point, I'm not sure what the issue is, but I'm going to try turning the TV on first, and seeing if that helps.

"Originally Posted by cmf
Tonight I noticed that the 705 does something I find highly annoying. My DVD player (an Oppo 981) is connected via HDMI in to the 705, as is my TV (out). What I noticed was that I could turn on the Oppo and the 705, but they wouldn't execute a valid HDMI handshake until I *also* turned on the TV.

Now why is that? The manual mentions this, but doesn't say why or how to make it so I can listen to CDs via my DVD player without first turning on the TV (turning the TV off after the handshake occurs has no effect on the 705's ability to communicate with the Oppo).

Anybody notice this and/or have a way around it that doesn't involve extra cabling?"

I have a similar issue -- there's a handshake issue with the Series 3 Tivo. Twice in two days, I've turned on the TV, Receiver and Tivo more or less simultaneously (one right after the other), and the Tivo crashed (which is highly annoying, as it takes a good 5 minutes to reboot). I checked out tivocommunity.com, and someone else is having the same problem with a 605. At this point, I'm not sure what the issue is, but I'm going to try turning the TV on first, and seeing if that helps.

I had the same problem with my DVD player and I've got a projector which was even more of a pain to turn on than off than a TV would be. I didn't find a solution so I've connected the DVD player with an optical audio cable as well. My DVD player is connected via HDMI also so I set up another input on the 705 for the optical connection and set it as CD separatly from the HDMI input which is obviously set up as DVD. Probably not what you wanted to hear but i don't think it's a big deal if the 2 devices are physically close to one another.

Set the crossover on the sub to its highest point (or if you have a DISABLE setting, use that) and let the receiver handle the crossover. The crossover control on the sub can induce a delay that can mess with the subwoofer distance detection in Audyssey. It also cascades with the crossover on the receiver, causing a gap in frequency response.

KLH subs are not the greatest, if we're being honest, so you're probably trying to push it past its limits (which at 100w aren't much). I recommend saving up for something better. If you're looking for a budget sub that will blow that KLH away, you can get a low-end SVS for around $450 that will put a big grin on your face.

Thanks for the help. I'll try that. Frankly, $450 for a sub is more than I care to invest.

Few questions regarding Audio setups in general and TX-SR705:

TX-SR705 is rate at 100Watt per channel with 8ohm. I noticed in the manual on page 46: "If the impedance of any speaker is 4 ohms or more but
less than 6, set the minimum speaker impedance to 4 ohms (not North American models)."

NOT North American model? does that mean this unit does not support less than 6ohm or lower?

What are the significat benefits by going with <6ohm speakers?


Also question regarding the remote:
Anyone know are the remotes different betweek 705 and 805? According to the manuals, 705 has remote RC-693M and 805 have remote RC-690M, any ideas what are the differences?

Last question:
When using HDMI1,2,3 to HDMI OUT it's Pass through? does anyone noticed whether 705 alters the signal/video in anyway? I'm assuming since it's pass through, it should be exact as it was sent by the source, such as 1080p/24.

Gave this some thought last night, and the only thing I can think of that you might try is going to HARDWARE in the menu, then HDMI, and try changing the setting for audio pass-through to your TV to see if that makes a difference. Other than that, I don't know of a way around it unless there's one in the Oppo. I did a quick review of the Oppo manual and didn't see anything that would help though.

Might be something you have to live with.

I tried several things, but what you suggest (turning HDMI audio pass-through) is exactly the opposite of what I want; that would send the audio to the TV and not the speakers.

But thanks for the suggestion...guess I need to raise a little hell with Onkyo tomorrow.

I had the same problem with my DVD player and I've got a projector which was even more of a pain to turn on than off than a TV would be. I didn't find a solution so I've connected the DVD player with an optical audio cable as well. My DVD player is connected via HDMI also so I set up another input on the 705 for the optical connection and set it as CD separatly from the HDMI input which is obviously set up as DVD. Probably not what you wanted to hear but i don't think it's a big deal if the 2 devices are physically close to one another.

No, it's not a huge deal; the "on" button for the TV is literally 30 inches away from the "on" button on the TV, but as the TV takes 10-12 seconds to come on and do the handshake with the 705, that's an extra 10-12 seconds that any remote macro is going to have to be active before I can hear music. Sure, it's a minor annoyance, but I just can't figure out a good justification for it working that way.

Reasonable issues that have a decent technical justification I can live with; stupid annoyances that shouldn't exist in the first place are the ones I find most aggravating.

I have a similar issue -- there's a handshake issue with the Series 3 Tivo. Twice in two days, I've turned on the TV, Receiver and Tivo more or less simultaneously (one right after the other), and the Tivo crashed (which is highly annoying, as it takes a good 5 minutes to reboot). I checked out tivocommunity.com, and someone else is having the same problem with a 605. At this point, I'm not sure what the issue is, but I'm going to try turning the TV on first, and seeing if that helps.

No, it's not a huge deal; the "on" button for the TV is literally 30 inches away from the "on" button on the TV, but as the TV takes 10-12 seconds to come on and do the handshake with the 705, that's an extra 10-12 seconds that any remote macro is going to have to be active before I can hear music. Sure, it's a minor annoyance, but I just can't figure out a good justification for it working that way.

Reasonable issues that have a decent technical justification I can live with; stupid annoyances that shouldn't exist in the first place are the ones I find most aggravating.

No argument here :)

Thanks for the help. I'll try that. Frankly, $450 for a sub is more than I care to invest.There are a variety of subs that can be had for about half that amount that will give you some pretty decent results.
Here's one now:

http://www.amazon.com/JBL-SUB12-12-Inch-500-Watt-Subwoofer/dp/B000FBRC6Y/

Can someone give me sugestion with my situation.
I have a room with pre-install JBL 7.1 speakers and another room (patio) with 2 stereo speakers. I am debating between 605 and 705. I know 705 supports 2 zones but only 5.1 in zone 1 and 2 speakers at zone 2. Can 605 be split in to 5.1 + 2?
Thanks.

I have asked this question earlier yesterday but no answer yet.
I know people here are very knowledgeable and I just need to be patience.
It would be greatly appreciated if someone can help me with my question.
I need to decide which model to get soon, either the 605 ot 705.
Thanks in advance.

Thanks guys for the answer.
Can the 605 sent out preamp signal to the second room speakers and still provide 7.1 at the main room? The reason I ask is because 605 is cheaper then the 705. And if I need a stereo amp what would be a value amp to get? Thanks again.

The 605 has only a sub woofer pre-out so it won't work in this scenario. A reasonable stereo amp isn't expensive, check the etailers.

It already passes through whatever its given.. from same format type to same format type (like hdmi in and hdmi out.. or component in to component out)... it only downconverts when signal type is changed via the receiver.. like component in to hdmi out... so a 1080p component in can only be a maximum of 720p hdmi out when using this receiver cuase its being converted... but 1080p hdmi in will come out as 1080p hdmi out cuase its just a straight pass through.

hope this helps.

I could be wrong but isn't component in & out limited to 1080i not 1080p??

I would like to upgrade to the csi5 but it is too deep for my media cabinet. Part of the problem with the cs2 was the fact that the bass port in the back was a quater of an inch from back of the cabinet. I am thinking about getting the new csi a4, the tweeter near me says they are getting one in a couple of weeks.

As pointed out above, putting speakers in cabinets or close to walls can be problematic especially with rear ported speakers. One trick which will mitigate but not completely eliminate the issue is to plug the rear ports. You will lose some bottom extension, maybe up to 5 Hz or so but it will help clear up the bass muddies that occur when the speaker is too close to an obstruction. A pair of socks works, my towers actually came with foam plugs for this purpose if needed. Try it in the meantime until other speaker options are available.

Thanks for the help. I'll try that. Frankly, $450 for a sub is more than I care to invest.

Fair enough. If you don't have it, you don't have it. I suppose I just assumed that anyone who can spend enough to get the 705 would invest at least that much in quality speakers to actually get the most out of it.

As garypen said above, there are many other cheaper options than what I suggested that will give you a vast improvement over your KLH sub.

Woo hoo

Just received my 705 in Sydney, Australia via Hong Kong. I will wait to set up till the weekend

Fair enough. If you don't have it, you don't have it. I suppose I just assumed that anyone who can spend enough to get the 705 would invest at least that much in quality speakers to actually get the most out of it.

As garypen said above, there are many other cheaper options than what I suggested that will give you a vast improvement over your KLH sub.

Try this one. For the money I don't think you can go wrong with this.

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=300-635

Sometimes it goes on sale for about $20 bucks less than that.

right now I could pick up a 705 for $609.99 (tax included) and free shipping.

Anyone heard of a better deal? I see a lot of $650 ish numbers- when you add the 35 bucks in tax you're up around $685... I figured I was saving bout 75 bucks.

thanks,
james

It already passes through whatever its given.. from same format type to same format type (like hdmi in and hdmi out.. or component in to component out)... it only downconverts when signal type is changed via the receiver.. like component in to hdmi out... so a 1080p component in can only be a maximum of 720p hdmi out when using this receiver cuase its being converted... but 1080p hdmi in will come out as 1080p hdmi out cuase its just a straight pass through.

hope this helps.

Thanks for the info. I have a question about my setup. I have a media center PC with a nvidia 7600GS card sending out a video signal over component at 1080i. If I connect to the component in on the receiver and connect to my TV over HDMI (my TV is a 1080i Hitachi RP), will the signal be converted by the receiver to 480p (or 720p) or is there any way to let the 1080i signal go from component to HDMI without conversion.

I have also bought a DVI to HDMI cable, but have not tried it yet and am not sure if it will work (I think the card only recognizes the HDTV out if connected over component and not DVI). Would anyone know if DVI>HDMI was a better way to go than over component. I was hoping to send the 1080I from DVI>HDMI which would allow the signal to go straight through the receiver, but am not sure that the video card will convert the DVI video output to 1080i.

Thanks in advance

right now I could pick up a 705 for $609.99 (tax included) and free shipping.

Anyone heard of a better deal? I see a lot of $650 ish numbers- when you add the 35 bucks in tax you're up around $685... I figured I was saving bout 75 bucks.

thanks,
james

There have been prices slightly less but usually it's like a 1 hour sale on CC's site or Amazon and they are gone quickly. That's not a bad price so as long as it's a reputable dealer and you have the option to return it.

right now I could pick up a 705 for $609.99 (tax included) and free shipping.

Anyone heard of a better deal? I see a lot of $650 ish numbers- when you add the 35 bucks in tax you're up around $685... I figured I was saving bout 75 bucks.

thanks,
james

check 6ave with the 6% coupon, should be around $575.00 shipped...

Guys, I got this receiver for the theater I am building,
I had received as a gift Polk R50 & CS1 and R150 Bookshelf... I know these are budget speaker but I got them free, what are your toughts here, should I get a better set for this receiver and sell these speakers, Don't want to break the bank I will love to stay in the 1k and I already have BIC sub that should do the Job

Thanks

check 6ave with the 6% coupon, should be around $575.00 shipped...

nice, thanks partner.

I tested this out for you with my iniot. Thismorning, i switched it on (had been off overnight) using the remote, and hit the TUNER button on the remote immediately, and the radio station came on fine first go. So it does sound like there may be some issue with yours

Same here. I cannot replicate the hiss. Twice I've left the input on Tuner before shutting off the receiver at night, then press Tuner on the remote to turn on the receiver in the AM, and there is NO hiss. The radio plays almost instantly, and it sounds normal. Let me know if you would like me to try different combinations, like leaving the selected input on something besides Tuner before turning it off at night.

Im gettin mine tonight from CC for $650. Anyone got AAA so i can use your coupon for 10% off?????????

Im praying for no lip-sync problems, if so ill be tweaking all night long.

so i've had this receiver for a week now. Semmed to got most of the quirks figured out, and now today i play my wii for the first time opn this receiver, and the colors seem over saturated and just dont look right. Anybody else see this on their wii

Thanks for the quick reply. I ordered 12AWG Enhanced Loud Oxygen-Free Copper Speaker Cable - 100ft from monoprice, do i need to order banana plugs also??

BTW, i have philips dvp5962 dvd player and basic dish network, only composite no HD for dish network. I also have a vcr. regarding speakers what speakers i need to buy, i dont want to drill any holes to do inwall installation. book shelf or floor standing. 500usd is the limit for speakers.


Got my speaker cable and banana plugs, 705 coming tomorrow. what do i do with the speakers?? What kind of speakers go well with the 705?? I have a 20x30 room, i am trying to set this up in.

Got my speaker cable and banana plugs, 705 coming tomorrow. what do i do with the speakers?? What kind of speakers go well with the 705?? I have a 20x30 room, i am trying to set this up in.

Personally I think your budget of $500 for speakers is very low for this receiver unless you are only talking about the fronts. For a 5.1 speaker set I recommend at least a budget of $1000.00. It may sound like a lot but the speakers are the most critical part of a home theater. Check this article http://www.electronichouse.com/article/speaker_shopping_dos_and_donts/.

Ok kool i got my AAA Circuit City Coupon now through my boy, so it seems like ill be saving $65.:D:p:) and :eek:

Personally I think your budget of $500 for speakers is very low for this receiver unless you are only talking about the fronts. For a 5.1 speaker set I recommend at least a budget of $1000.00. It may sound like a lot but the speakers are the most critical part of a home theater. Check this article http://www.electronichouse.com/article/speaker_shopping_dos_and_donts/.

damnnn $500 for speakers, my center costs $400 alone.

http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x255/uptown193/DSCI0214.jpg

damnnn $500 for speakers, my center costs $400 alone.

Sweeet!! What brand?

I see my self spending $2K+ for a set of speakers if I had a bigger and dedicated home theater.

Thanks for the quick reply. I ordered 12AWG Enhanced Loud Oxygen-Free Copper Speaker Cable - 100ft from monoprice, do i need to order banana plugs also??

BTW, i have philips dvp5962 dvd player and basic dish network, only composite no HD for dish network. I also have a vcr. regarding speakers what speakers i need to buy, i dont want to drill any holes to do inwall installation. book shelf or floor standing. 500usd is the limit for speakers.

Look into a 5.1 speaker set called KEF 2005.2 (they are in your price range and get great reviews)
I dont see it on the circuit city website anymore (the product at all) but very recently CC had a 5.1 KEF 2005.2 setup for 500 bucks on sale (heavy sale price) for a long while it was on sale. That set i think sells for 750 bucks normally so 500 bucks was a great deal!

Those speakers have same power limit of the 705 so they will pair with it nicely and for the price they will sound very nice.

I own the bigger brother of those speakers the KEF 3005 .. and later bought an extra 2 channels for a 7.1 matching set. These speakers pack a lot of punch for their small footprint cause they sit the tweeter down inside the middle of the main cone of the satellites. The 3005's are very similar in design to the 2005's i believe so I am sure they will still pack a good punch and for 500 bucks its hard to go wrong.

I'd go up to circuit city and see if they still sell the KEF 2005.2 5.1 setup for 500 bucks... if they even still have this deal at all.

This is a link to the KEF 3005 video review on cnet... this is model i got (i got them in black not silver), but this video will give you a sense of how those 2005's will be design wise (the Uni-Q speaker inside a speaker design). http://reviews.cnet.com/surround-speaker-systems/kef-kht-3005-silver/4505-7868_7-31919068.html
Both the 2005 and 3005 have lil base that can be moved to the bottom or the back. You can use it as a bookshelf stand or use it on the back and wall mount them. I wall mounted all my speakers and it was pretty painless with EZ-Anchors for the drywall (no need to tap into the studs to support the weight) They are compact and look easy on the eyes.. which is why I chose them in my bedroom setup.

PS: I found this link for you it seems that vanns is selling these for 500 bucks now with free shipping, so if you cant get them locally there is other options for you if your chose that brand.
http://www.vanns.com/shop/servlet/item/features/544999456?v_c=PriceGrabber

I hope this helps.. good luck!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeremy Anderson
Fair enough. If you don't have it, you don't have it. I suppose I just assumed that anyone who can spend enough to get the 705 would invest at least that much in quality speakers to actually get the most out of it.

As garypen said above, there are many other cheaper options than what I suggested that will give you a vast improvement over your KLH sub.
Try this one. For the money I don't think you can go wrong with this.

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=300-635

Sometimes it goes on sale for about $20 bucks less than that.


Thanks Jeremy, garypen, and dropzone7 for your suggestions. You've got me rethinking my entire speaker setup. My speakers are all old and cheap. Nothing is matched. After spending big bucks on a new Pioneer 6010 flat panel and the 705, I now realize that making do with my old speaker setup is foolish. I thought I was nearing the end of my AVS Forum addiction.

Ok, finally got mine. Although the audio works very well with my 7.0 system the biggest surprise was the video improvement. For those of you with older equipment waiting for the boys to get HDTV working correctly, you may be surprised as to what this reciever can do for video on your older equipment. I've got a 15 year old 45" Mitsubish rear projection 4X3 connected to the 705 with an S Video cable that I was going to replace this year, but I'm not so sure now. The improvement in the video is most apparent in the movie screen credits. Gone is the fuzziness that used to be on all movie scripting. This may be because the DVD player I have is about as old as the TV and doesn't do upconverting, but the effect of whatever the 705 is doing is most apparent. Still not HD by any means, but a lot more viewable than before.

As for the audio, I love the way the audyssey set up the system, simplicity personified. For those of you looking for in ceiling rear speakers you might look at the Phoenix Gold ATC8DM. Of course you will have to do some work to get the environment correct, but these are 2 way coaxial, bi-ampable, 8" midrange, 38Hz to 22kHz, 200 watts peak speakers with 2 adjustable tweeters per speaker. Their made by the same company that owns Carver amps and their very inexpensive.

Back to Audyssey's EQ settings. I agree with Jeremy about it rolling off the highs. What sucks is that you can't tweak the settings a little and it save them automatically to "User". Ive tried setting up my own EQ settings but I'm not satisfied.

One low rent approach is to play around with the Tone settings. I bumped the treble up to around +6 and pulled the bass down to -2. Much betterer.

After spending big bucks on a new Pioneer 6010 flat panel and the 705, I now realize that making do with my old speaker setup is foolish. I thought I was nearing the end of my AVS Forum addiction.

BAH HA HA HA! The addiction is NEVER over! Getting my 705 caused me to buy:
1) Used Polk RTi70 floorstanders ($275).
2) Omnimount 20 mounts for rear speakers ($75)
3) Wall plates, speaker wire, HDMI cable ($50)
4) Harmony 880 remote ($150)

Good luck, sir! ;)

Back to Audyssey's EQ settings. I agree with Jeremy about it rolling off the highs. What sucks is that you can't tweak the settings a little and it save them automatically to "User". Ive tried setting up my own EQ settings but I'm not satisfied.

One low rent approach is to play around with the Tone settings. I bumped the treble up to around +6 and pulled the bass down to -2. Much betterer.

Incidentally, if you turn it to a THX mode and then hit RE-EQ off, that sets it to Audyssey's FLAT response mode. THX modes use Flat so the THX rolloff can work instead of Audyssey's. Regular surround modes use AUDYSSEY mode, with their rolloff. The problem is that you have to turn Re-EQ off every time you turn on the 705.

Sweeet!! What brand?

I see my self spending $2K+ for a set of speakers if I had a bigger and dedicated home theater.

iwould say speakers should be 2 to 3 times the price of the receiver. when you upgrade receiver, you shouldnt have to upgrade speakers every time. i figure my 705 should last me about 4 years. at that time the tech. in the 705 can probably be had for $150. but a set of $1500 speakers will still cost about the same to replace. the sound of your 705 will only be as good as the last link in the chain of sound. there are lots of decent speakers out there, but i would say in the realm of $1200 -$2000, with out the sub. im sure any of us that got $500 speakers for our 705 would have regrets. in a 7 ch. system thats only $71 each . i couldnt imagine a $71 center.

BAH HA HA HA! The addiction is NEVER over! Getting my 705 caused me to buy:
1) Used Polk RTi70 floorstanders ($275).
2) Omnimount 20 mounts for rear speakers ($75)
3) Wall plates, speaker wire, HDMI cable ($50)
4) Harmony 880 remote ($150)

Good luck, sir! ;)

Sounds like me... I started off just going to get a really nice new HDTV for the bedroom. I figured since all I need is a TV and nothing else.. I may as well go skies the limit and have no budget in mind... boy, was that way off .. I should'a figured I was gonna need more then just a tv. :D

1) Bought a Sony Bravia 52" XBR 3 LCD

that led to buying...

2) Playstation 3
3) Xbox 360 Pro
4) Onkyo 705
5) KEF 3005
6) monoprice cables galore! hdmi, sub, 250 ft. of speaker cables and bananna plugs, etc.
7) 2 more KEF 3001 rear for 7.1 (of course I couldn't live without 7.1.. I am addicted! :D)
8) Harmony 880 Remote (I think I bought this mostly cause it looks cool)
9) 25+ Blu Ray movies and still going... (more in the mail as we speak)
10) 20+ games between both systems and still going... (1 on reserve)

.. outside of buyin new movies and games ..I think my hardware setup is complete .. it was becoming a pricey new addictive hobby that I didn't start off attempting to make a hobby at all. I can thank my fellow complusive buyers here at AVS for giving me that lil extra push to buy things I dont need :) (ok, i really didnt neeed any extra pushing to do that)

I am sure I will be buying a HD DVD player stand alone at some point .. + tons of HD DVD movies to catch up with some titles i missed... Then I'd liek to redo my living room setup next since Its not feeling the next gen high tech love this new bedroom setup got.

Atleast I can officially say 1 room of my house is 100% in the next generation of home entertainment...

... THE SAGA NEVER ENDS! ...:rolleyes:

Quote:






foolish. I thought I was nearing the end of my AVS Forum addiction.
it will never be over! you are now doomed ! nice try though. wait tell you get hooked on the big boom boom(subwoofers). there should really be some kind of disclaimer for the avs forums.

Sounds like me... I started off just going to get a really nice new HDTV for the bedroom.I figured since all I need is a TV and nothing else.. I may as well go skies the limit and have no budget in mind... boy was that way off :D

1) Bought a Sony Bravia 52" XBR 3 LCD

that led to buying...

2) Playstation 3
3) Xbox 360 Pro
4) Onkyo 705
5) KEF 3005
6) monoprice cables galore! hdmi, sub, 250 ft. of speaker cables and bananna plugs, etc.
7) 2 more KEF 3001 rear for 7.1 (of course I couldn't live without 7.1.. I am addicted! :D)
8) Harmony 880 Remote (I think I bought this mostly cause it looks cool)
9) 25+ Blu Ray movies and still going...
10) 20+ games for both systems and still going...

.. outside of buyin new movies and games ..I think my hardware setup is complete .. it was becoming a pricey new addictive hobby that I didn't start off attempting to make a hobby at all. I can thank my fellow complusive buyers here at AVS for giving me that lil extra push to buy things I dont need :) (ok, i really didnt neeed any extra pushing to do that)

I am sure I will be buying a HD DVD player stand alone at some point .. + tons of HD DVD movies to catch up with some titles i missed... Then I'd liek to redo my living room setup next since Its not feeling the next gen high tech love this new bedroom setup got.

... THE SAGA NEVER ENDS! ...:rolleyes: and i was only thinking of building a new house so i could have a better theater room!

As far as speaker price to receiver ratio I do not think basing a speaker purchase based on price tag should be the deciding factor. Thats like picking the football team who will win by how fancy their outfits are... you have to be a little bit more of a critical thinker then judging based onprice tag alone.

Specs, performance, size and comparative reviews should be what makes the decision for you.. not price.

This receiver is for the most part cutting edge tech (hdmi 1.3, etc)... on the speaker side of things lets face it.. outside of some fancier plastic, rubber and resin compounds speaker technology really has not changed much in the last 50 years. Certainly price usually does dictate performance due to better manufacturing quality and speaker cabinet design, it doesn't mean its good just cause it costs 2-3 times the price of the receiver. A perfect example are those Bose cubes and sub. They cost about 3 times the price of this receiver and get very poor reviews compared to other setups in the same price range. The rule doesn't apply to everything. Thats a perfect example of paying for a hyped up brand name and not for potency.

I say best place to start shopping for speakers, is look at how much power your dealing with on your amp (the onkyo 705 receiver) Then look for speakers that best matches that power handling (which for us is 100 watts per channel). If you bought $5,000 speaker towers that can handle 250-400 watts of power+ and this receiver outputs 100 watts per channel, its not smart shopping for this setup. If that was your desire its better to buy an external amp that can push speakers of that power handling. If you know you want to power speakers off the receiver amp then its better to get speakers within a power handling range of 100 watts or so. This allows you to get good loud volume without having to crank the receiver up way high, which overheats the receiver and causes hiss.

Just cause speakers will cost 500 bucks doesn't mean they will suck on this system at all! Not to mention everyones budget is different... don't push the price tag snob mentality on others... cause honestly.. the Onkyo 705 and most the speakers all of us use are small time (or we would be posting in the high end audiophile section of the forums, not here).. this stuff is hardly top end audiophile grade gear.

I do agree that the quality of this receiver is good enough that skimping on speakers would be doing a diservice to what the receiver is capable of producing. I also think 500 dollars for this grade of receiver should be the absolute low end of how much you should spend on speakers just based on how the market is.

For xbox360 users, which audio setting are you using with this receiver (analog or digital, and which sub-option)? I have the Elite and am using the HDMI (vs. 1.2) connection to the receiver. I currently have a 5.1 speaker system (KEF 3005).

(quote from microsoft.com)
In the Audio Settings area, configure settings for analog output or digital output:
Analog output settings:
• Dolby Pro Logic II: Select this setting for stereo systems or Dolby Pro Logic II compatible systems.
• Mono: Select this setting for systems that do not support stereo output.

Digital output settings:
• Digital Stereo: Select this setting to use digital stereo output.
• Dolby Digital 5.1: Select this setting to use Dolby Digital output.
• Enable WMA Pro: Select this setting to use enable WMA Pro pass-through if your receiver supports the WMA Pro format

maybe i was misunderstood, happens all the time. and not trying to be a snob. i was just trying to say that a desent set of speakers should last many years. and decent has nothing to do with cost. more like well planned, researched, future proof speakers. if someone can find a desent 7 channel system for $500, i would say he was an excellent researcher. i could not. the best i could do after many countless hours of research was around $ 1440 shipped.my find hopefully will last through many new recievers, it was the best i could do. but on the other side i wouldnt buy $650 reciever if i had $3000 mains.

As far as speaker price to receiver ratio I do not think basing a speaker purchase based on price tag should be the deciding factor. Thats like picking the football team who will win by how fancy their outfits are... you have to be a little bit more of a critical thinker then judging based onprice tag alone.

Specs, performance, size and comparative reviews should be what makes the decision for you.. not price.

This receiver is for the most part cutting edge tech (hdmi 1.3, etc)... on the speaker side of things lets face it.. outside of some fancier plastic, rubber and resin compounds speaker technology really has not changed much in the last 50 years. Certainly price usually does dictate performance due to better manufacturing quality and speaker cabinet design, it doesn't mean its good just cause it costs 2-3 times the price of the receiver. A perfect example are those Bose cubes and sub. They cost about 3 times the price of this receiver and get very poor reviews compared to other setups in the same price range. The rule doesn't apply to everything. Thats a perfect example of paying for a hyped up brand name and not for potency.

I say best place to start shopping for speakers, is look at how much power your dealing with on your amp (the onkyo 705 receiver) Then look for speakers that best matches that power handling (which for us is 100 watts per channel). If you bought $5,000 speaker towers that can handle 250-400 watts of power+ and this receiver outputs 100 watts per channel, its not smart shopping for this setup. If that was your desire its better to buy an external amp that can push speakers of that power handling. If you know you want to power speakers off the receiver amp then its better to get speakers within a power handling range of 100 watts or so. This allows you to get good loud volume without having to crank the receiver up way high, which overheats the receiver and causes hiss.

Just cause speakers will cost 500 bucks doesn't mean they will suck on this system at all! Not to mention everyones budget is different... don't push the price tag snob mentality on others... cause honestly.. the Onkyo 705 and most the speakers all of us use are small time (or we would be posting in the high end audiophile section of the forums, not here).. this stuff is hardly top end audiophile grade gear.

I do agree that the quality of this receiver is good enough that skimping on speakers would be doing a diservice to what the receiver is capable of producing. I also think 500 dollars for this grade of receiver should be the absolute low end of how much you should spend on speakers just based on how the market is.
Yes, I think some of the posters on these boards are the same people that claim god talks to them. Personally, I've been going to CES for many years and the biggest trends I've noticed over the years are the move to smaller, more powerful, speakers with separate subs and the noticeable compression in quality between high-end and low-end speakers. To my ears practically all the improvement over the last 25 or so years has been in the low to middle market areas. The improvements in the high-end and ultra high-end speakers have been much less noticeable. If you think about the physics of what's going on with speakers this isn't really that surprising. Things like the acoustics and wall/floor coverings can be just as important as the speakers. Not to mention the way the mind seems able to pick and choose what it wants to hear. If one has a budget spend the money on the front wall of speakers, but as to what you buy is definitely a personal matter and shouldn't be based on cost alone. The 705 is without a doubt the best receiver I've ever owned and it alone is capable of covering a plethora of other sonic sins. The 705, by itself, has noticeably improved the clearness of the verbal output as well as the stage presence of my existing system. Speakers are probably the most important part of a system, but their not everything.

There are a couple options in the Secret Menu I don't understand. I can set it to VFMT 656 8bit or VFMT 601 24 bit. What do these settings do? Also, the resolution can be set on 720p or Auto. Setting it to 720p seems to cause widescreen 480p components sources to only display in full rather than wide. This has been reported by others as well. So I set it to Auto and the correct aspect ratio is displayed. However my 480p games on my XBOX (not 360) all have jitter when they didn't before. I plan to connect the XBOX back up directly to the TV via component due to this annoying jitter issue. Any solutions?

By the way, what does the 705 do exactly when set to auto?

This thread has veered off into a speaker discussion. I'd really like some feedback and help on the above issues. Please advise.

[QUOTE=bobs10;11878572]Yes, I think some of the posters on these boards are the same people that claim god talks to them. QUOTE]

i could only hope that was not directed at me. wow!

Thanks woots for your detailed posts.

Woots, I wasn't trying to be a price snob... but you have to admit that if you're pairing up a ~$700 THX Select 2 receiver with a KLH sub that sold for about $100, you shouldn't expect magic to happen. It's like buying a Ferrari and putting the engine from a Volkswagen van in it. In my opinion, the subwoofer is the speaker that you hear the most as far as the general perceived sound of the system, and you should never skimp on it. You can usually put mediocre speakers with a great sub and be perfectly happy with the sound, whereas a mediocre subwoofer will ruin the sound of any speakers you put with it.

Johni, I swear I wasn't picking on you for the KLH. Do be aware, however, that your particular model of KLH sub apparently has a reputation for amp overheating, including some reports of melted plastic and smoke/sparks/fire when pushed beyond its limits. Given the crackling you're hearing, it might well be on its way out. You've been given a few good suggestions, but the subwoofer you objectively SHOULD get depends upon your room size and the levels you're expecting it to reach in that room. If you're expecting reference levels in a 3,000 cubic ft. room, I doubt there's a subwoofer in existance below $800 that will even come close... whereas if you're just expecting 20dB below reference in a smaller room, a $200-$400 sub will perform quite nicely. Ultimately, I think you'd be doing yourself a disservice by pairing another lesser subwoofer with the 705. And if it's not something you can afford now, make do with it until you can save up for something better. Remember - no home theater is ever truly "complete"... it's just good enough to make it to the next upgrade. ;)

jeremy anderson, i thought that price thing was directed at me. all, i was just trying to be helpful. as for me i wish i had the means to be a snob, but not that kind of person. maybe just me sorry...

For xbox360 users, which audio setting are you using with this receiver (analog or digital, and which sub-option)? I have the Elite and am using the HDMI (vs. 1.2) connection to the receiver. I currently have a 5.1 speaker system (KEF 3005).

You have to set your 360 to Dolby Digital 5.1... or you won't get 5.1 surround. The 705 isn't WMA Pro compatible (and what receiver is?), so just use the regular 5.1 option.

As far as listening mode goes, I've been using THX Game Mode for 5.1 to 7.1 conversion... but last night I was toying around with The Orange Box and found that I was getting better steering to the rear surrounds using DPL-IIx Movie Mode. I might try DPL-IIx Music Mode since it blends the rear surrounds into the side surrounds a bit, which may give a little more spacious sounding rear soundstage. However, since you're only running 5.1, you'll have to use either straight Dolby Digital or one of the 5.1 THX modes. Which will sound better to you is totally dependant on your ears and your speakers.

Hi csrini1
Congrats on your 705 I think you will love the thing.

As far as speakers everybody has an opinion and none are more right than others. I think it's probably the most difficult and sometimes frustrating decisions one makes in a HT setup.
Woots and bobs10 are certainly correct in their comments above. Some people believe just because it costs more it's gotta be better.

I own Mirages I use with this system and I love them. Everybody's ears and acoustical setup is different so even listening in a showroom and loving the sound doesn't necessarily mean you get them home and still love them.
Everybody has different opinions on Mirages... some love the omnipolar enveloping type sound... Others do not. All I know is then when I set them up with the Audessey they sounded great right out of the box in my setup...no tweaking necessary.

You can see my post on this forum #1663 PG.56 and Mrgribbles response(who by the way along with woots seem to know there stuff...much more than me anyway).

NOBODY IS RIGHT OR WRONG IN A SPEAKER CHOICE...(unless you choose BOSE...LOL...relax Bose fans... just kiddin). IT'S ALL IN HOW THEY SOUND TO YOU AND IN YOUR SPACE.

Good Luck

My nickel on God and speakers. Everything in this A/V business or hobby or what have you is asymptotic. The low end gets you half way there. Double the investment and you'll get another 15% triple it and you'll get 20% all the way out till you have to spend megabucks for that last couple of percent improvement. In my book, incremental improvements are fine. The problem is it never ends. I was happy with a rather modest system until I got my hands on a HD DVD with DTS HD MA 7.1. Now I'm dropping money like I have it just to play one stinkin disk and I still can't do it. Yeeeesh.

LOL....UNDERSTAND COMPLETELY.

As I mentioned before...Just getting a new receiver for HDMI Inputs(705)....But wait now I need BluRay (PS3)...But wait how about new Speakers......Also got a Lutron IR wall dimmer so the new Harmony 720 remote can dim the lights when I press play and raise them when i hit pause.(How lazy is that!!! but cool)

It never ends!!!!

Oh and by the way don't forget the best thing...the female in your life never understands!!!!!

(ps Mrgribbles ... please for the love of god don't tell me about the HD-DVD w/ DTS HD MA 7.1 and how great it sounds...please)

everybody on this forum should know more money spent is not better, that is why were here. ive bought things in the past that were cheaper, than a year later spent twice as much. what a waste. just didnt want that to happen to a fellow forum member. this is a research tool for me, and i hope it continues to be so, just trying to learn so i dont make the same mistakes.

In my opinion, the subwoofer is the speaker that you hear the most as far as the general perceived sound of the system, and you should never skimp on it. You can usually put mediocre speakers with a great sub and be perfectly happy with the sound, whereas a mediocre subwoofer will ruin the sound of any speakers you put with it.The front and center are the speakers one hears the most. They are certainly the ones I notice the most. If I had a limited speaker budget, I would definetely consider a sub-$200 subwoofer in order to put more in the front and center speakers.

I perfectly good 5.1 set of speakers can be put together for about $500. And, with a receiver as good as the 705 has potential to be, should sound quite good.

The entire JBL Venue line, or their discontinued Northridge "E" series, would probably sound great with the 705. I know from personal experience how good BIC, a budget brand, sounds with it.

check 6ave with the 6% coupon, should be around $575.00 shipped...

Finally jump in today on the 705 from eBay. Got it for $599 with free shipping and no tax. It also comes with 3 years service and part plan ($200 value).

Garypen-

Just saw your "mystuff" post...very nice but for god's sake get a Harmony Universal remote...LOL

The front and center are the speakers one hears the most. They are certainly the ones I notice the most.

I know that the front and center are the speakers that actually get the most audio... but as far as the overall sound and presence of your system, the subwoofer is very important, especially considering how dependant the other speakers are on the subwoofer for bass. That's the point I was trying to get across. You can have some incredible speakers in your front soundstage that will sound horrible paired with a bad sub, because the bass is being redirected. But with a great sub, you can have fairly mediocre speakers that will sound insanely full and rich because they're primarily handling mids and highs. Just my opinion based on hearing other people's systems (and my own when I first started).

I'm running some older Polks on my 705 that would in no way be considered "high end"... but paired up with my SVS 20-39CS+, they sound better than some audiophile grade systems I've heard. YMMV.

Of course a terrible sub will prevent full enjoyment of great front/center speakers. But, I must disagree that a mediocre sub would ruin it more than mediocre front/center would ruin it with a great sub.

I will say without a shadow of doubt in my mind that if you have great sounding front/center, you would have an enjoyable listening experience despite a so-so (not horrible) sub.

But, if the front/center is mediocre, it won't matter how good the sub is. The whole experience will not be very good.

Garypen-

Just saw your "mystuff" post...very nice but for god's sake get a Harmony Universal remote...LOLWhy? I don't need it. I have a fully PC-programmable universal remote). That's what the pic of all the remotes was showing.

I did recently change it from the URC-6131 pictured to a URC-8820. Everything I need in a remote for $17. But, if I find a Harmony 550 for around $50, I'll consider it. I do miss backlighting.

BAH HA HA HA! The addiction is NEVER over! Getting my 705 caused me to buy:
1) Used Polk RTi70 floorstanders ($275).
2) Omnimount 20 mounts for rear speakers ($75)
3) Wall plates, speaker wire, HDMI cable ($50)
4) Harmony 880 remote ($150)

Good luck, sir! ;)

Yeah, the analogy I use is an earthquake.

For a few weeks/months before the earthquake, you get the occasional rumble or mini-tremor. This is you basically becoming aware that something in your setup isn't quite right...rumblings of discontent. That's when you start mulling options and doing a bit of research.

Then, you find what will make the whole difference; your world will be complete. Out comes the credit card and WHAM! the big one hits. After the pain and crying comes a brief moment of satisfaction when the shaking stops.

Then, you start realizing the little aftershocks. Uh-oh, the new XYZ requires an upgraded cable...that's $75. Oh, and the placement of something else now requires a different mount...that's another $40. These expense aftershocks keep up for a little while until you reach a new state of calm and peace, where everything's good and you enjoy your setup.

Until that next little rumble... :)

I hate this forum, I hate all of you. I just got a new tv, PS3, and now I think I'm going to the store this weekend to get a 705.

Thanks a bunch guys. My old crappy Sony has no HDMI.

My Checking account really wishes I never discovered this forum. :D

Anyone got a picture (home picture) of 705 showing True HD on the front display?

hello

Need help bad
I have a 705 and I have oppo dv-981hd DVD player and hook up with hdmi cable threw my 705 receiver why can I get 1080p out of my 705 to my 1080p TV?

WHAT am I doing wrong?
THANX

Anyone got a picture (home picture) of 705 showing True HD on the front display?

Why. You don't believe us? ;)

Why. You don't believe us? ;)

It wouldn't be a Samsung 1400 by any chance? Are you going through the 705 via HDMI? I'm thinking it would make a nice companion for my receiver.:)

Anyone got PS3 connected to SR705? if so, can PS3 output raw data to 705 and have receiver decode it?
Hence displaying TrueHD on front panel?

I'm little confused about whether that is possible with PS3.

It wouldn't be a Samsung 1400 by any chance? Are you going through the 705 via HDMI? I'm thinking it would make a nice companion for my receiver.

Yes I have the 1400 and so far I like it. I actually saw The Fifth Element last night with my 705 doing the Dolby True HD decoding and it was awesome.

Of course a terrible sub will prevent full enjoyment of great front/center speakers. But, I must disagree that a mediocre sub would ruin it more than mediocre front/center would ruin it with a great sub.

I will say without a shadow of doubt in my mind that if you have great sounding front/center, you would have an enjoyable listening experience despite a so-so (not horrible) sub.

But, if the front/center is mediocre, it won't matter how good the sub is. The whole experience will not be very good.

Most articles I have read say that the center speaker is responsible for 60% of the sound. I spent the most money for my center speaker, then bought the next level down for the LR(their voice matches) and it was a great investment. Sub is very important, but the center is the kingpin.
Also depends on what type of sound you are looking for.

Hey i just pulled the trigger on the 705, settin it up now with pics galore. Is there anything i need to know that i would not know i needed to know (tongue twister huh) thanks .

Yes I have the 1400 and so far I like it. I actually saw The Fifth Element last night with my 705 doing the Dolby True HD decoding and it was awesome.

I'm glad you're pleased with the Sammy. I've been reading the thread on it and was wondering if you did the firmware update. I've heard that it causes problems with standard DVD playback. But a lot of people were really happy to see True HD and DTS MA appear on their receivers.

I bought new speakers to go with the 705. Got most of the JBL Venue Series

2 Stadiums for FL & FR
2 Stages for SL & SR
2 Balconies for SB

I never had a subwoofer before and decided to treat myself to a Hsu VTF-2 MK3. When I was redoing the Audyssey and playing with the speaker settings then I hit the test tones button and nearly had to change my underwear. Now I know what I was missing. I thought the house was going to collapse when that thing was cranked up. Buying new toys is fun!:)

Sorry for this newie question, can anyone tell me if a line-level input sub is better than a speaker-level input and what is the different in beteen these two input? Thanks.

How come when i run Audyssey is stops after it tests my SBR and then says speaker setup error. i retried 4 times and says the same thing anyone else have this problem? i dont understand this. Help.

Sorry for this newie question, can anyone tell me if a line-level input sub is better than a speaker-level input and what is the different in beteen these two input? Thanks.

I can't claim to be an expert on subwoofers, but from what I've heard, older amps and receivers had a dedicated amplifier for the subwoofer which did not have a built-in amplifier. Now most subs have their own amplifier which can usually supply more "juice" than an older receiver or amplifier but retains the speaker-level input for backwards compatibility.

How come when i run Audyssey is stops after it tests my SBR and then says speaker setup error. i retried 4 times and says the same thing anyone else have this problem? i dont understand this. Help.

Check your speaker wiring at the back of the receiver "very carefully". This happened to me and I thought each speaker wire was perfectly in place, but after I re-did them, the speaker error went away never to return - I hope!;)

Thanks Emissary52 for your explaination.

i checked all the speakers and wires and they all are connected properly and with bananna plugs. i dont have Sl and SR speakers only 5.1 and no sub now. but this should not be happening im think i got a defective unit. anyone got answers why its not detecting my SBL

i checked all the speakers and wires and they all are connected properly and with bananna plugs. i dont have Sl and SR speakers only 5.1 and no sub now. but this should not be happening im think i got a defective unit. anyone got answers why its not detecting my SBL

Uptown - If I get this right, are you saying you don't have surround left or right speakers, but are trying to use the surround back speaker or speakers?

If this is what I think you are doing, you should be connecting your surround left and right speakers and leaving the surround back connections empty if you're only using 4 speakers. I think I remember reading something in the manual about this. I think using front speakers and the surround back speakers without having surround left and right is a no-no!

i checked all the speakers and wires and they all are connected properly and with bananna plugs. i dont have Sl and SR speakers only 5.1 and no sub now. but this should not be happening im think i got a defective unit. anyone got answers why its not detecting my SBL

If you're only running 5.1, your surrounds should be on SL (Surround Left) and SR (Surround Right). The tones for SBL and SBR should play no sound unless you have your surrounds hooked up to the Surround Back terminals instead of the Surround terminals. Check and make sure you have your surrounds connected to the regular surround terminals.

If you're only running 5.1, your surrounds should be on SL (Surround Left) and SR (Surround Right). The tones for SBL and SBR should play no sound unless you have your surrounds hooked up to the Surround Back terminals instead of the Surround terminals. Check and make sure you have your surrounds connected to the regular surround terminals.

yes i have only 5.1 now. I had is connected to the SBL and SBR terminals when i was using Audyssey. It was working until it came to test the SBL speaker and said error. So your sayin SBL and SBR are only for 7.1 systems and i should only use the SL & SR now for 5.1 untill i get 7.1 system?? i always thought that the SR & SL are for 7.1 systems b/c from the diagrams i see there on the sides.

Uptown - If I get this right, are you saying you don't have surround left or right speakers, but are trying to use the surround back speaker or speakers?

If this is what I think you are doing, you should be connecting your surround left and right speakers and leaving the surround back connections empty if you're only using 4 speakers. I think I remember reading something in the manual about this. I think using front speakers and the surround back speakers without having surround left and right is a no-no!

yea thats what i was doing so thats wrong then ok, well let me try using the SR & SL terminals, i just that those were for the sides like 7.1 systems i got it confused let me try that now. Thank you. ill be back.

yes i have only 5.1 now. I had is connected to the SBL and SBR terminals when i was using Audyssey. It was working until it came to test the SBL speaker and said error. So your sayin SBL and SBR are only for 7.1 systems and i should only use the SL & SR now for 5.1 untill i get 7.1 system?? i always thought that the SR & SL are for 7.1 systems b/c from the diagrams i see there on the sides.

Uptown - You've got it! SBR & SBL are for 7.1 systems!:) Time to buy more speakers and you don't need to spend a fortune on surround back speakers.:)

... can PS3 output raw data to 705 and have receiver decode it?

The PS3 can pass older codecs (DD, DTS) to the 705 for decoding.

Newer codecs (DD+, Dolby TrueHD, DTS-HD) must be decoded internally before being passed to the receiver.

For DTS-HDMA, the PS3 extracts the lossy DTS-HD core and decodes that before sending it to the receiver.

There is speculation that an update will eventually allow the PS3 to decode the full lossless DTS-HDMA stream.

Uptown - You've got it! SBR & SBL are for 7.1 systems!:) Time to buy more speakers and you don't need to spend a fortune on surround back speakers.:)

Well i like to say that the Audessy worked with the 4 speakers connected without the SBL & SBR connected. Sounds great to BTW. I like the sound of the rain in the movie thats on HBO now.

Which listening mode do you guys listen to while watchin cable. Hey i got a couple of JBL speakers i can use, lil outdated prolly. will i notice a big difference in 5.1 and 7.1?

Dumb question but which are more important the SL & SR or the SBL & SBR? sorry so many questions.

Oh, and the best part no Lip-Sync problems as of yet, Horray.....

yea thats what i was doing so thats wrong then ok, well let me try using the SR & SL terminals, i just that those were for the sides like 7.1 systems i got it confused let me try that now. Thank you. ill be back.

Actually, in a 5.1 system, the surrounds are supposed to be to the sides, not the back wall. See http://www.dolby.com/consumer/home_entertainment/roomlayout.html for more information on speaker placement in 5.1 vs. 7.1.

Actually, in a 5.1 system, the surrounds are supposed to be to the sides, not the back wall. See http://www.dolby.com/consumer/home_entertainment/roomlayout.html for more information on speaker placement in 5.1 vs. 7.1.

Nice, thanks for that link very helpful. well since i took off tomorrow ill run to home depot for some speaker wire to hook up the 7.1. surround.

Which get more sound the side surrounds or the rears???

Pics of my 705
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x255/uptown193/DSCI0216.jpg
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x255/uptown193/DSCI0217.jpg
THE REMOTE IS HUGE, I WAS LIKE DAMNNNN
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x255/uptown193/DSCI0218.jpg
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x255/uptown193/DSCI0220_edited.jpg
OUT WITH THE OLD IN WITH THE NEW
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x255/uptown193/DSCI0224.jpg
WIRE CRAZY
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x255/uptown193/DSCI0226.jpg
THE MISTAKE, DO NOT USE THE SBL & SBR TERMINALS WITH 5.1
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x255/uptown193/DSCI0227.jpg
ITS DONE FINALLY.
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x255/uptown193/DSCI0228.jpg

Well i like to say that the Audessy worked with the 4 speakers connected without the SBL & SBR connected. Sounds great to BTW. I like the sound of the rain in the movie thats on HBO now.

Which listening mode do you guys listen to while watchin cable. Hey i got a couple of JBL speakers i can use, lil outdated prolly. will i notice a big difference in 5.1 and 7.1?

Dumb question but which are more important the SL & SR or the SBL & SBR? sorry so many questions.

Oh, and the best part no Lip-Sync problems as of yet, Horray.....

First many thanks for the pictures. Nice setup, love the stand!!

If you can correctly position your 7.1 system then yes, you will notice a difference. The room fills noticeably, especially with a well mastered musical score in a movie or with fly around effects. If your watching cable and you select a matrixing movie mode like DD PLIIx the rears will get some of the work. The rain you mentioned will be even deeper. I was watching something on cable the other night and I swear to God, I was getting soaked in one of the rain scenes. When the thunder hit, it rolled around the room. Well mastered material is the key.

Thanks for the info. I have a question about my setup. I have a media center PC with a nvidia 7600GS card sending out a video signal over component at 1080i. If I connect to the component in on the receiver and connect to my TV over HDMI (my TV is a 1080i Hitachi RP), will the signal be converted by the receiver to 480p (or 720p) or is there any way to let the 1080i signal go from component to HDMI without conversion.

I have also bought a DVI to HDMI cable, but have not tried it yet and am not sure if it will work (I think the card only recognizes the HDTV out if connected over component and not DVI). Would anyone know if DVI>HDMI was a better way to go than over component. I was hoping to send the 1080I from DVI>HDMI which would allow the signal to go straight through the receiver, but am not sure that the video card will convert the DVI video output to 1080i.

Thanks in advance

Bump. Anyone?????

My Ascend surrounds have finally shipped so hopefully by this time next week I can be listening in 5.1 and then maybe another week or two after that (when I scrape together some more money) 7.1 and I'm done. I have been working on some DIY speaker stands for my L & R front channels. I think they are turning out pretty nice and I will post some pictures when they are done.

Nice, thanks for that link very helpful. well since i took off tomorrow ill run to home depot for some speaker wire to hook up the 7.1. surround.

Which get more sound the side surrounds or the rears???

I don't know that you can really say whether the rears or sides get more sound, since the rears are essentially taking over stuff that is in both surrounds. If you're trying to decide whether to put the better speakers on side or rear duty, I'd say use them on the sides, especially if they match your main speakers (so you get good sidewall imaging).

I hate this forum, I hate all of you. I just got a new tv, PS3, and now I think I'm going to the store this weekend to get a 705.

Thanks a bunch guys. My old crappy Sony has no HDMI.

My Checking account really wishes I never discovered this forum. :D

I know how you feel. I started with the SR705 upgrade (from Yamaha 992)because, well I don't really know why, HDMI, I guess...
Then had to upgrade the center (got a Boston Acoustics VR14 monster)
Now I'm looking at upgrading my SVS Subwoofer (have a PB12-ISD with NSD Driver upgrade) to a SVS PB12-Plus or PB12-Plus/2 (if I can sell my PB12 w/nsd upgrade...).

My wife keep asks 'what is the difference?' - I don'tanswer...instead I'm looking at my Panny TH-50PX60U and thinking 'hmmm, the color doesn't match - maybe time for a new TV....hdmi 1.3....lyp-sync, yeah that's it...ummm....what did you say honey?' :)

Of course, kids really don't need college educations, right?

:)

(and all because of HDMI inputs) sigh....

Bump. Anyone?????

You will put out 720P. No known way to stop that from happening.

As to the DVI thing, you've got the cable & the components, hook them up and see what happens. Your results can be revealing to all of us.

You have to set your 360 to Dolby Digital 5.1... or you won't get 5.1 surround. The 705 isn't WMA Pro compatible (and what receiver is?), so just use the regular 5.1 option.

As far as listening mode goes, I've been using THX Game Mode for 5.1 to 7.1 conversion... but last night I was toying around with The Orange Box and found that I was getting better steering to the rear surrounds using DPL-IIx Movie Mode. I might try DPL-IIx Music Mode since it blends the rear surrounds into the side surrounds a bit, which may give a little more spacious sounding rear soundstage. However, since you're only running 5.1, you'll have to use either straight Dolby Digital or one of the 5.1 THX modes. Which will sound better to you is totally dependant on your ears and your speakers.

I'd like to add that for well mixed music/concert DVDs I use Dierct mode. I found this works best for music because there is minimal processsing to change the source’s audio channels and the audio is output as the director intended.

For DTS-HDMA, the PS3 extracts the lossy DTS-HD core and decodes that before sending it to the receiver.

When I use DTS on KOH my 705 recieves a bitstream of the DTS not a PCM stream. So is the PS3 actually decoding or is it just extracting the core and then bitstreaming it.

I leave my settings at bitstream for everything unless I need to hear a TrueHD track, this allows the receiver to do most of the work.

THE REMOTE IS HUGE, I WAS LIKE DAMNNNN

Yeah that remote is friggen huge. Mine has since been retired for the universal!!

Check your speaker wiring at the back of the receiver "very carefully". This happened to me and I thought each speaker wire was perfectly in place, but after I re-did them, the speaker error went away never to return - I hope!;)

Also and background noise(s) will cause and error, and if anything is in the path of a speaker (like a person) it will cause an error.

I know how you feel. I started with the SR705 upgrade (from Yamaha 992)because, well I don't really know why, HDMI, I guess...
Then had to upgrade the center (got a Boston Acoustics VR14 monster)
Now I'm looking at upgrading my SVS Subwoofer (have a PB12-ISD with NSD Driver upgrade) to a SVS PB12-Plus or PB12-Plus/2 (if I can sell my PB12 w/nsd upgrade...).

My wife keep asks 'what is the difference?' - I don'tanswer...instead I'm looking at my Panny TH-50PX60U and thinking 'hmmm, the color doesn't match - maybe time for a new TV....hdmi 1.3....lyp-sync, yeah that's it...ummm....what did you say honey?' :)

Of course, kids really don't need college educations, right?

:)

(and all because of HDMI inputs) sigh....

I'll share my HT journey, started in Dec 06, signed onto AVS to research TVs (had a 27"Tosh), settled on the 50A2000SXRD hoping to avoid "green blobs". Had the Tv and an HDPVR in mid Dec, saw PS3's online at Futureshop on Dec 24th and got it in the mail by Jan 10th. That satisfied me for a while but of course I started buying blu-rays and games. Then this Sept/Oct I got the sound bug (never owned any sound system, even an HTIB), found out about the 705 and got the first Canadian shipment around 2-3 wks ago plus of course bought a decent set of 5.1 speakers with the 705. Now I see too many good HDDVD movies and realize the war won't end for years so its now time to decide on the A35 vs XA2 vs close-out A20 (hell maybe even the new Onkyo one). And of course if the A35 bitstreaming really sound better then I'll need a 1400 and retire the PS3 to gaming/multimedia. And finally my 705 has too many cool processing modes that I can only use with 7.1 so two more speakers plus stands are coming soon.........

And of course the worst tickle in the back of my head which I try to suppress every day is that now I want a 60A3000 with 24p acceptance and 120Hz refresh....

So DAMN YOU AVS, DAMN YOU:eek::D:mad::):confused:;):p

http://img264.imageshack.us/img264/6087/htpic1dx2.jpg

I hate this forum, I hate all of you. I just got a new tv, PS3, and now I think I'm going to the store this weekend to get a 705.

Thanks a bunch guys. My old crappy Sony has no HDMI.

My Checking account really wishes I never discovered this forum. :D

One of us! One of us! One of us!

THE REMOTE IS HUGE, I WAS LIKE DAMNNNN

Looks like you new owners are also going to have to buy the Harmony 880/890 to reduce some of that heavy remote weight from your hands! :D

If anyone attempts to stop you from your purchase you can tell them its for health reasons! :rolleyes:

j/k.. but seriously get the remote... no j/k... but seriously! :)

Dude... is that Pump Lotion and used some Kleenex I see in the foreground.. lol.. umm, I really dont need to go into it, but you already know what I'm thinking.

The screen may be turned off.... but I know what you were watching on the TV before the photo! :cool:


http://img264.imageshack.us/img264/6087/htpic1dx2.jpg

I was running Audessy for the first time last night when the phone rang. I could not stop the ringing quickly enough. I know I got at least two rings before I stopped it. Does anyone know if the phone rings will mess up my result? Thanks.

You will put out 720P. No known way to stop that from happening.

As to the DVI thing, you've got the cable & the components, hook them up and see what happens. Your results can be revealing to all of us.

Will do that and report back. Least I can do for all the valuable info you guys have posted. Am very happy with the component output and did not want to mess around with something that was working. Maybe it will end up being better :)

I was running Audessy for the first time last night when the phone rang. I could not stop the ringing quickly enough. I know I got at least two rings before I stopped it. Does anyone know if the phone rings will mess up my result? Thanks.

If the phone was ringing when a speaker was chirping then Yes. Make sure everything is off, air conditioner, etc and all the pets and wives are clear of the area. It sounds like I'm joking but I'm not.

If the phone was ringing when a speaker was chirping then Yes. Make sure everything is off, air conditioner, etc and all the pets and wives are clear of the area. It sounds like I'm joking but I'm not.

Thanks. I will follow your advice when I re-run audessey.

Dude... is that Pump Lotion and used some Kleenex I see in the foreground.. lol.. umm, I really dont need to go into it, but you already know what I'm thinking.

The screen may be turned off.... but I know what you were watching on the TV before the photo! :cool:

Woots - Shame on you! You're not allowed to reveal the "Secrets of the Brotherhood". Wives and girlfriends may be lurking! You'll notice I removed my stuff before I took this shot.

Pron

Woots - Shame on you! You're not allowed to reveal the "Secrets of the Brotherhood". Wives and girlfriends may be lurking! You'll notice I removed my stuff before I took this shot.

Is that plastic wrap on the screen for protection? :D

I don't know that you can really say whether the rears or sides get more sound, since the rears are essentially taking over stuff that is in both surrounds. If you're trying to decide whether to put the better speakers on side or rear duty, I'd say use them on the sides, especially if they match your main speakers (so you get good sidewall imaging).

Yes thats what i was trying to say. but damn i was hoping u would say the opposite since the SL & SR are already mounted on the wall and the other speakers are on stands. :( you think it will be ok to put the cheaper speakers as side surrounds. BTW there not that cheap there JBL500 with 8 ohm impedeance.

Is that plastic wrap on the screen for protection? :D

Dropzone7 - Yea -It's still on there yet-in case of a problem (so far- so good) and requires repacking and a trip to the Costco in Matthews! After my 90 days are up I'll take it off.:D It's just on the bezel.

Yeah that remote is friggen huge. Mine has since been retired for the universal!!

i dont think im even going to program my sony universal remote to the Onkyo remote, way to many button to program and i kinda like the big remote since i got big hands and why waste a good remote like that. :D

Yes thats what i was trying to say. but damn i was hoping u would say the opposite since the SL & SR are already mounted on the wall and the other speakers are on stands. :( you think it will be ok to put the cheaper speakers as side surrounds. BTW there not that cheap there JBL500 with 8 ohm impedeance.

Go ahead and try it. Audyssey will do what it can to make them sound like the other speakers, so it may work really well. Only way you'll know is to give it a shot and see how it sounds.

Looks like you new owners are also going to have to buy the Harmony 880/890 to reduce some of that heavy remote weight from your hands! :D

If anyone attempts to stop you from your purchase you can tell them its for health reasons! :rolleyes:

j/k.. but seriously get the remote... no j/k... but seriously! :)

is the Harmony 880/890 the tounch srceen one for $500? l love that one. i want it. if thats the one.

If the phone was ringing when a speaker was chirping then Yes. Make sure everything is off, air conditioner, etc and all the pets and wives are clear of the area. It sounds like I'm joking but I'm not.

so a dog barking in the way back ground, say from outside in the street like 100 feet away will affect Audessey????

Woots - Shame on you! You're not allowed to reveal the "Secrets of the Brotherhood". Wives and girlfriends may be lurking! You'll notice I removed my stuff before I took this shot.

Hey I like that A/V stand who make is and does it come in all black?? im trying to stay away from silver in everything i buy, i had enough of silver growing up as a child, white also. Also you should consider mounting your tv it would look 75% better.

is the Harmony 880/890 the tounch srceen one for $500? l love that one. i want it. if thats the one.

I believe you are thinking about the Harmony 1000 which has the large touch screen. The 880 can be had for around $130 and the 890 for about $230. The difference there being that the RF remote is more expensive than the IR remote.

can someone tell me what audio settings they are using for their PS3 while watching movies and playing games??

the 880 looks more like a normal remote would:
http://www.logitech.com/index.cfm/remotes/universal_remotes/devices/372&cl=us,en

and the 1000 is the touch screen one:
http://www.logitech.com/index.cfm/remotes/universal_remotes/devices/373&cl=us,en

I have both, used both, and the 880 requires less "look where you press" but the 1000 is just so cool to use. ;) There are some issues with the 1000, but I have been lucky enough that all my equipment works with it, and I don't have any need for the RF or lighting: Sony 50" LcoS TV-Comcast Motorola HD-DVR, Sony 400 DVD changer, Onkyo 705 (duh), Xbox 360, PS3 (just macro's for playing, no IR control), Wii (no IR control).

so a dog barking in the way back ground, say from outside in the street like 100 feet away will affect Audessey????

Sure. If you can hear it why wouldn't the microphone? If a dog barked while I was doing mine I'd stop and run it again after I shot the dog, bitch slapped the kids playing basketball in the street and duct taped my neighbors mouth shut.

Hey I like that A/V stand who make is and does it come in all black?? im trying to stay away from silver in everything i buy, i had enough of silver growing up as a child, white also. Also you should consider mounting your tv it would look 75% better.

Uptown - Unfortunately, it's only available in that one style. One of the reasons I bought it was all the space it has above for the receiver, so I don't need a fan, plus for $149 it's very well made and given the price of some AV furniture, I was willing to live with the silver accents. The matching TV stand required a trip to the Hickory NC CC, which for you, would be like driving from mid-town Manhattan to the Pennsylvannia border - a long distance for this former Jersey boy. It was a bargain for $116 and worth the ride. BTW, its made by Z-Line Designs. It can support a 36" tube TV, so it's not too stressed by mine.

Sure. If you can hear it why wouldn't the microphone? If a dog barked while I was doing mine I'd stop and run it again after I shot the dog, bitch slapped the kids playing basketball in the street and duct taped my neighbors mouth shut.

mrgribbles - Once again, sage advice from the master! The microphone is very sensitive - the first time I ran the Audyssey program I had a window open in the family room. Outside, a bunch of crows were cawing in the trees and they killed my first attempt - too noisy! Closed the window, screamed at the crows, - shut off the ceiling fan and success!

Thanks guys. Damn mutts, ill rerun Audessy again.

Just hooked up my new 705 yesterday. I'm a bit concerned about the picture quality. I'm running HDMI out to a sammy plasma and the HD quality looked noticably better when run directly to the TV. It's not unwatchable, just softer and the colors appear to have less depth. Anyone else notice this??

can someone tell me what audio settings they are using for their PS3 while watching movies and playing games??

I tried using bistream output once the firmware came out. Ran it for a good weeks worth of watching movies. Then I went back to PCM and PCM is where I will keep it for good until the PS3 meltsdown or dies from old age.

On PCM the HD uncompressed audio formats get decoded inside the PS3 and then get sent out to the receiver (already decoded). you will never see True HD or DTS HD MA light up on your receiver if you own a PS3..(its a early generation hdmi 1.3 SI vastlane chipset and most likely lacks the newer abilities to ever send raw bistream to the receiver) thats just the harsh reality to contend with if you own both a PS3 and a nice next gen receiver like the one we do. The other reality is right now DTS HD MA doesnt even get decoded properly like True HD gets decoded in the PS3.

The good news is I read a pre-christmas firmware update for the Ps3 will finally be bringing us DTS HD MA decoding on the Ps3 (I will be happy when and if it comes). They currently have the "secret sauce" of DTS HD MA figured out on other sony blu ray players (and that firmware for standalones has been out for 1/2 a month now) so porting it to ps3 should be very soon (prolly like 2 months or less with any luck)

My advice is stick to PCM output setting on the PS3 and your receiver will make use of those uncompressed PCM signal and give you great sound. Your receiver will just never have to do the decoding your Ps3 will always do it.

FYI - A lil History on the whole HD audio external decoding front:
As many of us here, when we coughed up the cash for a nice receiver that can do DTS HD MA and True HD decoding, its not really acceptable to let the player do all the work (at the very least its nice to see it work). If you own a Ps3, or xbox hd dvd player (or low end "2" series hd dvd player). The only option is buy a new HD DVD player or Blu Ray player that just came out within last month. They send raw bitstream audio out to the receiver and allow the receiver to decode True HD and DTS HD MA on its own. There are players out on both format sides now that can do this.

However, my advice is wait and watch how that all pans out (on both sides of the fence). If you can wait that is. :)

Blu Ray 1.1 profile is coming out soon and supposedly that pulls the decoding back into the player and away from the receiver. Without accepting the 1.1 firmware profile update you will not be able to play 1.1 profile movies.. so its a double edge sword you will be forced into.(they already got 3 - 1.1 profile movies slated to come out... so this profile update will be happening soon) If the manufacturers find a way to bypass the external decoding block (like they did on HD DVD side of things) that will remain to be seen when the time comes. Also there is a slew of issues (minor to serious) on both sides of the fence with these new external decoding players both HD DVD and Blu Ray... They indeed make the DTS HD MA and True HD decoding light up on your receiver but their is other issues with some of these players. Audio drop outs and pops and other lil minor issues unique to each player (check all the AVS forum threads for those details). I am guessing with time and perhaps firmware updates these issues will be corrected.

I am waiting for the Samsung 5000 which was a dual format player with Reon chip and allowed external decoding.. but that got pushed back a couple months. If I drop 600-1000 bucks on a new player I would prefer it to be dual format at this stage (personally speaking).

You seem new to this thread and I know there is some other new faces here.. so I am doing a brief recap not only for you but others who may be facing this new predicament. I am just shedding some light.. its rather scant ... but go back through this thread and find more in depth details on these topics. Also the HD DVD and Blu Ray player section of these forums is a great place for more info. Many of those new owners of those players own Onkyo x05 series receivers.. so its good information thats applicable to us.

If you already knew all these details just ignore it.

mrgribbles - Once again, sage advice from the master! The microphone is very sensitive - the first time I ran the Audyssey program I had a window open in the family room. Outside, a bunch of crows were cawing in the trees and they killed my first attempt - too noisy! Closed the window, screamed at the crows, - shut off the ceiling fan and success!

My first run through of Audyssey, I got to the 8th listening position... and someone knocked on the door, making the dogs bark like mad. The person at the door got to hear some serious profanity before I opened it!

Nice info woots.

So I've also been using my ps3 in PCM mode and think it sounds great.

Is there a reason why you would want your receiver to do the decoding vs the ps3? I mean isn't it all the same or is there some wiggle room/room for interpretation when decoding/decompressing these sound tracks? Are there different implementations or do they all have to adhere to a strict spec/algorithm? I've always thought of it like using either winzip or winrar. The end result of the uncompressed file is the same. Maybe the analogy doesn't apply b/c one is lossy and the other isn't.

Sound mixing: I remember reading somewhere there are advantages to having the player decode the sound track since it mixes it with other sounds that the player actually generates (like menu selection change noises and such). I think that's why you get that warning on the ps3 when switching from pcm to bitstream. Isn't that reason enough to just let the player deal with the decoding?

so a dog barking in the way back ground, say from outside in the street like 100 feet away will affect Audessey????If you heard it, then so did the Oinkyo.
Oh, and add the ice-maker to the list.

Player - AVR decoding. Likely the hottest hot button in the forums right now. The debate has been pretty nasty and its not getting any better. Woots is likely right about the BD side of things, he usually is. On the HD side, however, the current crop of models including the XA2 when updated will still have limits on DD THD & DTS HD MA in player decoding due primarily to hardware limitations in the EMMA3 decoder. All internal Tosh HD player decoding is limited to DD THD & DD+ @ 5.1. DTS HD & HD MA will be limited to 5.1 core only. The Tosh A35 & (when upgraded) the XA2 will pass all flavors of bitstream up to 7.1 for AVR decoding. We have a Win - Win AVR. I don't care what movie audio codec is thrown at it, it will play it. A wise buying decision if I don't say so myself :)

Player - AVR decoding. Likely the hottest hot button in the forums right now. The debate has been pretty nasty and its not getting any better. Woots is likely right about the BD side of things, he usually is. On the HD side, however, the current crop of models including the XA2 when updated will still have limits on DD THD & DTS HD MA in player decoding due primarily to hardware limitations in the EMMA3 decoder. All internal Tosh HD player decoding is limited to DD THD & DD+ @ 5.1. DTS HD & HD MA will be limited to 5.1 core only. The Tosh A35 & (when upgraded) the XA2 will pass all flavors of bitstream up to 7.1 for AVR decoding. We have a Win - Win AVR. I don't care what movie audio codec is thrown at it, it will play it. A wise buying decision if I don't say so myself :)

You Xa2 guys never got your update yet gribbles? I been meaning to ask you. I have heard the 3 series hd dvd players got some issues. I need to go back and read more indepth on the whole hd dvd external decoding front of things.

Nice info woots.

So I've also been using my ps3 in PCM mode and think it sounds great.

Is there a reason why you would want your receiver to do the decoding vs the ps3? I mean isn't it all the same or is there some wiggle room/room for interpretation when decoding/decompressing these sound tracks? Are there different implementations or do they all have to adhere to a strict spec/algorithm? I've always thought of it like using either winzip or winrar. The end result of the uncompressed file is the same. Maybe the analogy doesn't apply b/c one is lossy and the other isn't.

Sound mixing: I remember reading somewhere there are advantages to having the player decode the sound track since it mixes it with other sounds that the player actually generates (like menu selection change noises and such). I think that's why you get that warning on the ps3 when switching from pcm to bitstream. Isn't that reason enough to just let the player deal with the decoding?

Simply put there really isn't a good reason to force the decoding outside the player, its just nice to have as an option.

That question you asked has been juggled around endlessly on the blu ray/hd dvd side of the forums for last month+. Its just like I said though... its nice to have the option since we are in a group of people with the advantage of owning a receiver that "can" decode for us. Many people who are on tight budgets or bought PCM receivers before this latest update receiver technology are all very happy to just let the players go on decoding. Out of that group of people I have seen a few make it a personal vendetta to put down everyone who wants external decoding on the receiver (due to personal regrets or boredom.. no clue which). Some of things you read on the anti external decoding front comes from those folks so try to read between the lines.

As for us, since we have the ability to do it. Its just nice to be able to judge for ourselves and our individual setups which sounds better, if any difference at all.

I do believe your right about losing some of the secondary track audio stuff. I cant say definitively since I didn't buy that latest samsung blu ray player.

I will be getting this unit in a few weeks but I have a question. Is there any way to have seperate On and Off remote functions instead of a "Power Toggle"

I have the Harmony 676 and it works but then let's say I turn off my TV or Xbox with the the power button on the machine, the remote still thinks the component is on when it is off and it messes it up next time I try to use it.

Anyone know a way around this?

I will be getting this unit in a few weeks but I have a question. Is there any way to have seperate On and Off remote functions instead of a "Power Toggle"

I have the Harmony 676 and it works but then let's say I turn off my TV or Xbox with the the power button on the machine, the remote still thinks the component is on when it is off and it messes it up next time I try to use it.

Anyone know a way around this?

There are three power codes for the Onk. Discrete ON, discrete OFF and Power Toggle. Its in my Harmony 880. You should be good to go.

Sweet! Thank you. This might help me move on the 705 soon, hoping it drops another $50 on CC soon.

I have the Harmony 670 and the database for the 705 does have discrete On and Off commands.

Dude... is that Pump Lotion and used some Kleenex I see in the foreground.. lol.. umm, I really dont need to go into it, but you already know what I'm thinking.

The screen may be turned off.... but I know what you were watching on the TV before the photo! :cool:


To date..Best post in this thread ! :D

Sweet! Thank you. This might help me move on the 705 soon, hoping it drops another $50 on CC soon.

You can get it today for 50 less than CC is offering it. Just check out Vann's and 6thave. I printed out the 6thave price. Hoping I can get a local price match at CC or PC Richard (a 6thave store is right up the street).

You can get it today for 50 less than CC is offering it. Just check out Vann's and 6thave. I printed out the 6thave price. Hoping I can get a local price match at CC or PC Richard (a 6thave store is right up the street).

Neither of those stores are near me so I doubt they would price match. I'm near Albany, NY. Plus I'd like to get CC's 3 year service plan for $30

Neither of those stores are near me so I doubt they would price match. I'm near Albany, NY. Plus I'd like to get CC's 3 year service plan for $30

Just curious... What's the advantage of getting CC's service plan? Onkyo covers parts and labor for receivers for 2 years from purchase.

Just curious... What's the advantage of getting CC's service plan? Onkyo covers parts and labor for receivers for 2 years from purchase.

I believe they would have to upgrade you immediately to a comparably priced or comparably featured product. The first scenario probably being the better if said claim occured a few years from now. I don't think CC is going to attempt to repair this in their service centers. Maybe an advantage would be local access and the fact that you would probably walk out of the store with a new receiver as opposed to waiting days or weeks for an Onkyo service center to attempt to repair your old receiver.

Just hooked up my new 705 yesterday. I'm a bit concerned about the picture quality. I'm running HDMI out to a sammy plasma and the HD quality looked noticably better when run directly to the TV. It's not unwatchable, just softer and the colors appear to have less depth. Anyone else notice this??

My Harmon Kardon AVR3000 of the past 7 or 8 years finally gave up the ghost. My 705 arrived the other day and I hooked it up quickly last night. Previously I had run my Directv HDVR (latest version) and Oppo 981HD direct into my Panny Plasma via HDMI. Audio was run into my receiver via Optical inputs. I decided after having read how many pages now (?) in this thread that the way to go was to input the HDVR and Oppo into the 705, use it as a switcher with one HDMI output to the TV.

I was immediately struck by the degradation in video quality. I switched cables around thinking it might be the new, and rather inexpensive, HDMI cable that I bought to accomplish my setup. No change. I am running a 5.1 system and will go back to direct input to my TV. My question is, what is the best alternative audio hookup? Optical or what?

TIA

Paul

Neither of those stores are near me so I doubt they would price match. I'm near Albany, NY. Plus I'd like to get CC's 3 year service plan for $30

Whatever makes you feel better. You'd pay 100 more than necessary, not including the 30 for the extended service. I'm going to stop by CC tonight on the way home and see if I can get them down to 600 (it's 650 online), or where 6ave is. If they do that I'll suck up the tax for the instant gratification. Otherwise it's onto the internet to order it.

Woots - I sent you a PM re KEF KHT3005 speakers.

Simply put there really isn't a good reason to force the decoding outside the player, its just nice to have as an option.

That question you asked has been juggled around endlessly on the blu ray/hd dvd side of the forums for last month+. Its just like I said though... its nice to have the option since we are in a group of people with the advantage of owning a receiver that "can" decode for us. Many people who are on tight budgets or bought PCM receivers before this latest update receiver technology are all very happy to just let the players go on decoding. Out of that group of people I have seen a few make it a personal vendetta to put down everyone who wants external decoding on the receiver (due to personal regrets or boredom.. no clue which). Some of things you read on the anti external decoding front comes from those folks so try to read between the lines.

As for us, since we have the ability to do it. Its just nice to be able to judge for ourselves and our individual setups which sounds better, if any difference at all.

I do believe your right about losing some of the secondary track audio stuff. I cant say definitively since I didn't buy that latest samsung blu ray player.

Great info.

But has anyone actually tested the two scenarios and reported a significant difference between the bitstream-to-receiver and the player decoding?

I'm on the fence right now in buying a Toshiba A35 or even an XA2 purely because it can do bitstreaming, or just getting an Toshiba HD-A3 if it sounds the same. (I have a 720p set so 1080p is not required). It would also help me decide going for a PS3 or waiting for a player like the Samsung 5000 for dual format (I am going dual format in one way or the other).

So, has anyone tested this with results?

Neither of those stores are near me so I doubt they would price match. I'm near Albany, NY. Plus I'd like to get CC's 3 year service plan for $30

transparentl - Hey, before you go check to see whether you can get a coupon from AAA for 10% off, if you're a member. I can e-mail you a coupon if you need one. Every little bit helps!:) PM me if you do.

Thanks woots for your detailed posts.

woots, got my 705 and kef 2005 speakers, what the heck!!
will try to set this thing up tonight or weekend.

woots, got my 705 and kef 2005 speakers, what the heck!!
will try to set this thing up tonight or weekend.

Ahh sweet I hope they work out for you. The price is sure great on those. From much of the info I could dig up they are a lot like the 3005's and I know I love this setup here. I have never been able to max my volume out just way to loud beyond comfortable. Its not an annoying high pitch kinda loud you get from smaller speakers either its got a robust sound.

I keep these speakers all the speakers set to 80hz on my receiver (these speakers are capable of that) no mater what Audyssey does during auto set up be sure to turn them back down to 80hz so you get a lil more robust sound from these speakers.

Also if you ever want to step up to 7.1 when you come into a lil more money you do not have to spend an arm and leg a company called accesories4less sells scratch and dent satellies to the KEF 2005 and 3005 system for very cheap and by the pair not just single speakers like vanns does. (my 2 scratch and dent 3001's were perfect)

transparentl - Hey, before you go check to see whether you can get a coupon from AAA for 10% off, if you're a member. I can e-mail you a coupon if you need one. Every little bit helps!:) PM me if you do.

My girl has AAA so i was gonna get the 10% coupon from her, wolverines might be able to use it unless he orders from 6ave. I think I'm gonna order on Sunday even if it stays the same price.

I'll have some speaker questions to post next week :rolleyes:

My girl has AAA so i was gonna get the 10% coupon from her, wolverines might be able to use it unless he orders from 6ave. I think I'm gonna order on Sunday even if it stays the same price.

I'll have some speaker questions to post next week :rolleyes:

I'd love the 10% coupon if anyone is willing to share it with me! 6thave always feels a bit shady so I was going to go out and try and talk CC or PC Richards into matching the 609 price. The 10% coupon would certainly be better and a lot easier.

Thanks tranzparentl for passing it on!

I'd love the 10% coupon if anyone is willing to share it with me! 6thave always feels a bit shady so I was going to go out and try and talk CC or PC Richards into matching the 609 price. The 10% coupon would certainly be better and a lot easier.

Thanks tranzparentl for passing it on!

wolverines - The coupon is yours if you want it! PM Me. I bought a few things at the 6thAve store in West Paterson. I noticed from their website that they sell higher end stuff, but I never bought anything more expensive than a digital camera. Do they have a store in Paramus?

wolverines - The coupon is yours if you want it! PM Me. I bought a few things at the 6thAve store in West Paterson. I noticed from their website that they sell higher end stuff, but I never bought anything more expensive than a digital camera. Do they have a store in Paramus?

I just sent you a PM. Thanks!

I just sent you a PM. Thanks!

Hope you got it! If not we'll figure out something.:D

PS3 Owners FYI:
Well just like clockwork i figured this blu ray 1.1 profile was right around the corner. That announcement of 3 new 1.1 discs coming out soon made it a no brainer.

http://www.engadget.com/2007/10/12/ps3-firmware-update-coming-to-boost-blu-ray-functionality/

Anyway, 1.1 profile is coming to PS3.. which probably means all the stand alone players will be soon to follow (if they don't get it 1st.) For us ps3 owners it doesn't mean much.. in fact its more interactivity so its better.

However, if you wanna externally decode with a standalone player... this may be the update that stops that. (or not ... we shall see)

My Harmon Kardon AVR3000 of the past 7 or 8 years finally gave up the ghost. My 705 arrived the other day and I hooked it up quickly last night. Previously I had run my Directv HDVR (latest version) and Oppo 981HD direct into my Panny Plasma via HDMI. Audio was run into my receiver via Optical inputs. I decided after having read how many pages now (?) in this thread that the way to go was to input the HDVR and Oppo into the 705, use it as a switcher with one HDMI output to the TV.

I was immediately struck by the degradation in video quality. I switched cables around thinking it might be the new, and rather inexpensive, HDMI cable that I bought to accomplish my setup. No change. I am running a 5.1 system and will go back to direct input to my TV. My question is, what is the best alternative audio hookup? Optical or what?

TIA

Paul

Yeah I was very disappointed. I though I was upgrading (from an H/K 7300) but it feels like a downgrade. I like the HDMI switching, but nothing else is as good. Might be taking it back unless I find a solution. I'm very surprised I didn't see any mention of this problem when looking through this thread. Maybe I didn't look hard enough.

As far as your setup, optical and coax are both good. Not as good as HDMI, but oh well. Sounds like you can't live with the picture quality either. :(

PS3 Owners FYI:
Well just like clockwork i figured this blu ray 1.1 profile was right around the corner. That announcement of 3 new 1.1 discs coming out soon made it a no brainer.

http://www.engadget.com/2007/10/12/ps3-firmware-update-coming-to-boost-blu-ray-functionality/

Anyway, 1.1 profile is coming to PS3.. which probably means all the stand alone players will be soon to follow (if they don't get it 1st.) For us ps3 owners it doesn't mean much.. in fact its more interactivity so its better.

However, if you wanna externally decode with a standalone player... this may be the update that stops that. (or not ... we shall see)

Woots - You just made me re-think a purchase of a Samsung 1400. I think now I'll just wait until Black Friday - hopefully, we will have a few 1.1 profile players to choose from. Many thanks for your great posts!!

Woots, just wanted to acknowledge that info you gave for me and others, thanks.

Also when i went to purchase my 705 at CC last night they have is listed on the net for $650 but at the store its $799. They say CC online is a different store and is used as an incentive to make people buy online rather then go in stores. So I had to price match it with a store here in NY called J&R for the $650. So the store manager came over and gave it to me for $650. I also had a AAA Coupon for an additional 10% but the manager did not let me use it b/c he said he already price matching it for me and that other managers got fired for doing both to customers. what a drag, i was pissed. Is this true? , does any one know about this this and has anyone here got it priced matched and got the additional 10% AAA coupon? i was hoping to pay $590, lol. Oh well I tried. Maybe ill call CC corporate office and find out.

I still have a AAA coupon, I guess i wont be using it. I will call CC corporate office Monday or tomorrow if there open and find out if i can use it or not. If i cant ill give it to someone. I'll let you know.

Woots, just wanted to acknowledge that info you gave for me and others, thanks.

Also when i went to purchase my 705 at CC last night they have is listed on the net for $650 but at the store its $799. They say CC online is a different store and is used as an incentive to make people buy online rather then go in stores. So I had to price match it with a store here in NY called J&R for the $650. So the store manager came over and gave it to me for $650. I also had a AAA Coupon for an additional 10% but the manager did not let me use it b/c he said he already price matching it for me and that other managers got fired for doing both to customers. what a drag, i was pissed. Is this true? , does any one know about this this and has anyone here got it priced matched and got the additional 10% AAA coupon? i was hoping to pay $590, lol. Oh well I tried. Maybe ill call CC corporate office and find out.

I still have a AAA coupon, I guess i wont be using it. I will call CC corporate office Monday or tomorrow if there open and find out if i can use it or not. If i cant ill give it to someone. I'll let you know.

Why didn't you use in store pickup and apply the AAA coupon online? That works fine and you wouldn't have needed to price match.

I was immediately struck by the degradation in video quality. I switched cables around thinking it might be the new, and rather inexpensive, HDMI cable that I bought to accomplish my setup. No change. I am running a 5.1 system and will go back to direct input to my TV. My question is, what is the best alternative audio hookup? Optical or what?


My understanding is that the 705 is capable of directly passing through the video signal without any processing. If that is the case, then the video signal not be degraded. I should have my 705 in a few days, and I plan to use it as a switcher with my HD DVD and Blu-ray players. I am not expecting any signal degradation using it in this way. Did you make the appropriate setting for pass through mode in the receiver's menu?

Woots, just wanted to acknowledge that info you gave for me and others, thanks.

Also when i went to purchase my 705 at CC last night they have is listed on the net for $650 but at the store its $799. They say CC online is a different store and is used as an incentive to make people buy online rather then go in stores. So I had to price match it with a store here in NY called J&R for the $650. So the store manager came over and gave it to me for $650. I also had a AAA Coupon for an additional 10% but the manager did not let me use it b/c he said he already price matching it for me and that other managers got fired for doing both to customers. what a drag, i was pissed. Is this true? , does any one know about this this and has anyone here got it priced matched and got the additional 10% AAA coupon? i was hoping to pay $590, lol. Oh well I tried. Maybe ill call CC corporate office and find out.

I still have a AAA coupon, I guess i wont be using it. I will call CC corporate office Monday or tomorrow if there open and find out if i can use it or not. If i cant ill give it to someone. I'll let you know.

I heard stories both good and bad about using the CC coupon. Some people have gotten a great deal and others have received the same treatment as you did. It seems to be the luck of the draw! When I bought my 705, the online price was much higher than it is now. Even with the coupon it was still more expensive than the place I finally ordered it from. That's why I still had it. CC should get its act together!

Woots, just wanted to acknowledge that info you gave for me and others, thanks.

Also when i went to purchase my 705 at CC last night they have is listed on the net for $650 but at the store its $799. They say CC online is a different store and is used as an incentive to make people buy online rather then go in stores. So I had to price match it with a store here in NY called J&R for the $650. So the store manager came over and gave it to me for $650. I also had a AAA Coupon for an additional 10% but the manager did not let me use it b/c he said he already price matching it for me and that other managers got fired for doing both to customers. what a drag, i was pissed. Is this true? , does any one know about this this and has anyone here got it priced matched and got the additional 10% AAA coupon? i was hoping to pay $590, lol. Oh well I tried. Maybe ill call CC corporate office and find out.

I still have a AAA coupon, I guess i wont be using it. I will call CC corporate office Monday or tomorrow if there open and find out if i can use it or not. If i cant ill give it to someone. I'll let you know.


I bought on CC online, used AAA coupon and picked up in store. No issues with them and they were nice about it...
Hope that helps.

Yeah I was very disappointed. I though I was upgrading (from an H/K 7300) but it feels like a downgrade. I like the HDMI switching, but nothing else is as good. Might be taking it back unless I find a solution. I'm very surprised I didn't see any mention of this problem when looking through this thread. Maybe I didn't look hard enough.

As far as your setup, optical and coax are both good. Not as good as HDMI, but oh well. Sounds like you can't live with the picture quality either. :(

Well it is a little too early for me to pass judgment on the audio but my initial impressions are that this receiver is not up to my old HK soncially. However, my AVR3000 was HK's flagship at the time with a MSRP of $3,000 if I remember correctly so I can't be too critical of the 705 given it only cost $600. When watching TV/movies I am more critical of the video than the audio so I think I will go back to my prior setup - not going through the 705 for video. It would have been nice (read simpler) to retain the HDMI switching capabilities of the 705. Oh well.

My understanding is that the 705 is capable of directly passing through the video signal without any processing. If that is the case, then the video signal not be degraded. I should have my 705 in a few days, and I plan to use it as a switcher with my HD DVD and Blu-ray players. I am not expecting any signal degradation using it in this way. Did you make the appropriate setting for pass through mode in the receiver's menu?

Well I think I did or I woudn't be getting any video at all, but maybe not. It is my understanding (very limited here) that if you have your input to the receiver HDMI and your output HDMI your good to go and it is a direct pass through. If this is not the case and I need to do something to get a direct pass through, please someone let me know what steps I have to take.

Hope you got it! If not we'll figure out something.:D

I got it. Ordered online and picked it up a few hours ago. Have been playing around a little bit. I've got lots to do to set this puppy up now. For now just enjoyed listening to iTunes while I set up the sub. Sounds amazing, but I was coming from a very old Pioneer, so no real comparison.

Many thanks again Emissary52. It's going to be a busy weekend now!

Hi everyone. Just unpacked mine and got it set up. I have one question though. I seems to me that the volume does not get very loud. I'm watching a movie at what I would consider a normal movie volume, and the display says 62. Well the max volume is 87 i think. This does not seem right to me. The Sony receiver that died on me had 100 watts per channel as well, and was WAY louder than the Onkyo. Am I missing something, or possibly have a setting turned off? It seems to be working normally, but the volume issue is worrisome to me. Any input is greatly appreciated. Thanks.

Woots, just wanted to acknowledge that info you gave for me and others, thanks.

Also when i went to purchase my 705 at CC last night they have is listed on the net for $650 but at the store its $799. They say CC online is a different store and is used as an incentive to make people buy online rather then go in stores. So I had to price match it with a store here in NY called J&R for the $650. So the store manager came over and gave it to me for $650. I also had a AAA Coupon for an additional 10% but the manager did not let me use it b/c he said he already price matching it for me and that other managers got fired for doing both to customers. what a drag, i was pissed. Is this true? , does any one know about this this and has anyone here got it priced matched and got the additional 10% AAA coupon? i was hoping to pay $590, lol. Oh well I tried. Maybe ill call CC corporate office and find out.

I still have a AAA coupon, I guess i wont be using it. I will call CC corporate office Monday or tomorrow if there open and find out if i can use it or not. If i cant ill give it to someone. I'll let you know.

Thanks to Emissary52 I took the AAA coupon, went online to CC, bought it for 585 + tax and picked it up at the store near my house 30 minutes later. No problems at all. Was extremely easy to do and Emissary52 saved me the time of having to go haggle. I'd buy another 705 online at CC with the coupon. Go back to the CC you bought it from and return the first 705 you bought and pick up the new one 65 bucks cheaper.

Dude... is that Pump Lotion and used some Kleenex I see in the foreground.. lol.. umm, I really dont need to go into it, but you already know what I'm thinking.

The screen may be turned off.... but I know what you were watching on the TV before the photo! :cool:

I guess I'll respond to this, yep thats kleenex (not used) and my GF's almond hand lotion. I have never violated my HT setup that way. Only the computer gets that sort of attention;)

Thanks to Emissary52 I took the AAA coupon, went online to CC, bought it for 585 + tax and picked it up at the store near my house 30 minutes later. No problems at all. Was extremely easy to do and Emissary52 saved me the time of having to go haggle. I'd buy another 705 online at CC with the coupon. Go back to the CC you bought it from and return the first 705 you bought and pick up the new one 65 bucks cheaper.

Wolverines - I'm so glad you were able to make good use of the coupon. Congrats on your new toy! The manual alone will be good for several hours of serious reading. Enjoy!:)

I have my HTPC hooked up via a HDMI/DVI cable to the Onkyo 705.

When I switch HDMI modes to my satellite receiver and then back to the HTPC HDMI, Windows XP makes me set up the TV as my display again.

Luckily I have I'm doing dual monitor and I can reset it.

When it is on the Satellite HDMI input I don't even have a choice for my TV as a monitor on the HTPC's display properties, so I'm guessing the Onkyo is completely shutting off the HDMI source and thus Windows XP doesn't see it.

Is there any way to get the onkyo to keep the HDMI connection alive when on another HDMI input?

Likewise, is there anyway to get Windows XP to keep the TV as a monitor without a connection on the other end of the cable (Onkyo)?

Just curious... What's the advantage of getting CC's service plan? Onkyo covers parts and labor for receivers for 2 years from purchase.

i know that i had problems with my laptop, and had extended warr. from cc. called cc, and they said to call toshiba because stil under fact. warr. whats the point? i bought the exended warr. because i didnt want to deal with the factory if i had a problem. at time of purchase cc. told me that with their extended warr. they would replace for free if any thing happened. but when tried to use that was not the case. basicly i got screwed for $300 dollars. so you can imagine i was not thrilled. they took my $300, and i had to send unit to toshiba, and pay my own shipping. be very wary when they start talking about extended warr. i now ask them if product is no good, is that why your trying to sell me warr. i guess warr. would be good for some, or if very expensive item/ large item.

Does anyone know if or for how long the 705 will retain its settings if it is unplugged?

Thanks to Emissary52 I took the AAA coupon, went online to CC, bought it for 585 + tax and picked it up at the store near my house 30 minutes later. No problems at all. Was extremely easy to do and Emissary52 saved me the time of having to go haggle. I'd buy another 705 online at CC with the coupon. Go back to the CC you bought it from and return the first 705 you bought and pick up the new one 65 bucks cheaper.

Did you have to pay for it online with credit card or did you pay for it in the store?

Hi everyone. Just unpacked mine and got it set up. I have one question though. I seems to me that the volume does not get very loud. I'm watching a movie at what I would consider a normal movie volume, and the display says 62. Well the max volume is 87 i think. This does not seem right to me. The Sony receiver that died on me had 100 watts per channel as well, and was WAY louder than the Onkyo. Am I missing something, or possibly have a setting turned off? It seems to be working normally, but the volume issue is worrisome to me. Any input is greatly appreciated. Thanks.

Press the Tuning Mode button, towards the bottom right and to the left of the jack where you put the microphone for Audessy setup. Same th9ing happened to me i thought my 705 was faulty. Lower the volume before you do this or you might blow ur speaks or scare the crap out of urself and family members and pets. lol. let me know if thats it. :D

Thanks to Emissary52 I took the AAA coupon, went online to CC, bought it for 585 + tax and picked it up at the store near my house 30 minutes later. No problems at all. Was extremely easy to do and Emissary52 saved me the time of having to go haggle. I'd buy another 705 online at CC with the coupon. Go back to the CC you bought it from and return the first 705 you bought and pick up the new one 65 bucks cheaper.

Yea i should do that right, i still have all the stuff, great idea. But do i have to pay for it online. I dont got credit cards.

After re-reading this thread, I realized something might be wrong with my speaker setup.

I have a week-old KEF 3005 speaker set.

After running Audyssey several times (3 to 6 listening points), I keep getting very similar results:

Front L&R*: 150hz, -6 db
Center: 120hz, -10db
L/R Surrounds*: 120hz, -8db
Sub: -14db

*Front and surround speakers are physically identical, in spite of the different frequencies determined by Audyssey.

My room is about 12 by 16. The distance measurements determined by Audyssey are right-on, even for the sub.
Also, apparently it is noteworthy that I have to have the volume turned up to about -12 for TV.

From what I've read in this thread, there is a lot wrong here. But I don't know where to begin.

The KEF manuals state that all these speakers should be set to SMALL, which is apparently equivalent to 80hz.
As for the frequency response, I don't know what their levels are at -3db (I've searched), so I can't follow the +20hz manual setting suggestion I read here. (How does one determine the -3db response point from the specs' crossover freq. of 2.2khz, freq. range of 70hz-55khz?)

I would be much obliged if anyone here with this same speaker set can provide their speaker settings.

There are three power codes for the Onk. Discrete ON, discrete OFF and Power Toggle. Its in my Harmony 880. You should be good to go.Are Harmony codes similar to Pronto codes? Is there a CCF type file for the 705?

I'm trying to program a power toggle code into my JP1 remote. But, every JP1 file I can find only has the discrete on/off codes, and the Onkyo remote itself only has the discrete code.

I was under the impression that the Power On code is also used by Onkyo as a Power Toggle code for other devices, and whether it acts as Power On or Power Toggle depends on the device. But, if you say they have three separate power codes for the 705, that is great news!!!

Did you have to pay for it online with credit card or did you pay for it in the store?

Yes, I'm pretty sure you have to use a credit card or a circuit city card online.

After re-reading this thread, I realized something might be wrong with my speaker setup.

I have a week-old KEF 3005 speaker set.

After running Audyssey several times (3 to 6 listening points), I keep getting very similar results:

Front L&R*: 150hz, -6 db
Center: 120hz, -10db
L/R Surrounds*: 120hz, -8db
Sub: -14db

*Front and surround speakers are physically identical, in spite of the different frequencies determined by Audyssey.

My room is about 12 by 16. The distance measurements determined by Audyssey are right-on, even for the sub.
Also, apparently it is noteworthy that I have to have the volume turned up to about -12 for TV.

From what I've read in this thread, there is a lot wrong here. But I don't know where to begin.

The KEF manuals state that all these speakers should be set to SMALL, which is apparently equivalent to 80hz.
As for the frequency response, I don't know what their levels are at -3db (I've searched), so I can't follow the +20hz manual setting suggestion I read here. (How does one determine the -3db response point from the specs' crossover freq. of 2.2khz, freq. range of 70hz-55khz?)

I would be much obliged if anyone here with this same speaker set can provide their speaker settings.

They're probably listing the -3dB point in the frequency response, i.e. 70Hz. I would start with a crossover of 90Hz, play some music with bass guitar, then try 80Hz and see if there's a noticeable dropoff in bass content. Considering how steep the slope of the crossover is, you may be able to get away with 80Hz without issues. If not, 90Hz will definitely be better than the 150 and 120 it detected.

Hi all, sorry for asking the same question again, but I got no info earlier:

Can you use the 12v trigger with an external poweramp for the front channels?

I have a AA MAA405 poweramp, and it doesn't have a remote to turn it on, but does have a 12v input.

I have the impression that the 12v output is used with zone 2. Is this correct?

One of the problems with the Harmony is that they control everything, even individual profiles on their website. There's nothing the user can do with raw codes like you can with other remotes.

Your description of the Onk codes is very accurate. Yes, the old power toggle became power ON. If they would have left it as the toggle and created two new ones, we'd all been better off.

Yea i should do that right, i still have all the stuff, great idea. But do i have to pay for it online. I dont got credit cards.

Go through the on-line purchase process until you get to the end. You'll get to a summary screen that will show your AA discount subtracted from the price.

Print that screen off and take it into the local CC store and have them price match themselves.

Played my 1st BRD Movie in my PS3 last night. Mission Impossible 3. It only has a DD 5.1 PCM track. I have the Onkyo 705 connected via HDMI. I have my voulme control on Absolute so when I had the PS3 output the audio via PCM I had to have my volume on about 80 but when I switch the PS3 to output Bitstream I had to lower the volume to about 65. Why is one louder than the other? It's the same audio right just that it's being decoding or uncompressed in the Onkyo vs the PS3.

They're probably listing the -3dB point in the frequency response, i.e. 70Hz. I would start with a crossover of 90Hz, play some music with bass guitar, then try 80Hz and see if there's a noticeable dropoff in bass content. Considering how steep the slope of the crossover is, you may be able to get away with 80Hz without issues. If not, 90Hz will definitely be better than the 150 and 120 it detected.

Thanks; I appreciate your help. How about the levels? Should they ALL be so far from 0 (the center -10db)? My setup is very square, like this:
L -----------C-------------R



-----------(me)------------
LS------------------------RS

Audessey Levels:
Front L&R: -6 db
Center: -10db
L/R Surrounds: -8db
Sub: -14db

I thought following the latest LCD 120hz TV technology was a challange --- but I'm finding it is no where near as complex as audio.:o I simply do not understand this crossover stuff. I guess I need to better educate myself on the basics, speakers 101, or something. I do have the "Setting up your HT 101" FAQ from this forum bookmarked.
Maybe I do need to bite the bullet and buy an SPL meter.:(

Anyone have HTPC connected to TX-SR705 using DVI>HDMI and then using HDMI OUT to TV?

Did it work well without any issues?

Yes, I'm pretty sure you have to use a credit card or a circuit city card online.

oh then i cant get it i dont have credit cards.

oh then i cant get it i dont have credit cards.

Go to Circuit City and return your current receiver. Buy a gift card there for the amount of the receiver - 10% AAA coupon + tax, then use that gift card online to make the purchase with the coupon and in store pickup (If you are in NY, it would be in the $630 range).

You can also take a chance of printing out your shopping cart online and have them try to price match their own price. But they are very particular about doing that and you are taking a chance they will reject you so the first option is probably better.

One of the problems with the Harmony is that they control everything, even individual profiles on their website. There's nothing the user can do with raw codes like you can with other remotes.

Your description of the Onk codes is very accurate. Yes, the old power toggle became power ON. If they would have left it as the toggle and created two new ones, we'd all been better off.But, didn't you say the Harmony had a code for Toggle? Does it work with your 705? If so, then it's out there, somewhere.

But, didn't you say the Harmony had a code for Toggle? Does it work with your 705? If so, then it's out there, somewhere.

The code for Power toggle became ON. They created codes for Toggle and OFF.

can someone explain in simple terms how to connect subwoofer to the reciever. and also a cd/cassette player to the receiver. this is a old aiwa cx-na303 i am trying to connect to the receiver.

I read the manual page 40-50 but was not able to make it work.
i am able to connect the receiver/kef 2005 speakers, to dvd and tv.

did not try vcr,dish,computer and tv antenna(for hd signals).

can someone explain in simple terms how to connect subwoofer to the reciever. and also a cd/cassette player to the receiver. this is a old aiwa cx-na303 i am trying to connect to the receiver.

I read the manual page 40-50 but was not able to make it work.
i am able to connect the receiver/kef 2005 speakers, to dvd and tv.

did not try vcr,dish,computer and tv antenna(for hd signals).

csrini - I just got a subwoofer a couple of weeks ago and the most important thing is plugging it into the correct subwoofer out on the back of the receiver. Look for the subwoofer out that has whitish markings around it. If you can see the back of the receiver it's the subwoofer out on the right side.
Is the Aiwa a combo cd / cassette unit? Let me know!:)

csrini - I just got a subwoofer a couple of weeks ago and the most important thing is plugging it into the correct subwoofer out on the back of the receiver. Look for the subwoofer out that has whitish markings around it. If you can see the back of the receiver it's the subwoofer out on the right side.
Is the Aiwa a combo cd / cassette unit? Let me know!:)

yes aiwa system is a combo cassette//3cd disk changer.

for the subwoofer is it the rca cable we use?? sorry very dumb questions...

yes aiwa system is a combo cassette//3cd disk changer.

for the subwoofer is it the rca cable we use?? sorry very dumb questions...

basically yes 1 channel RCA cable from sub to receiver. Digital Coax cables also work well for sub cables since they are shielded good. (be sure to get one atleast 12 foot long or so, so you have room to position the sub nice)

I use this cable I bought off monoprice..
http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10236&cs_id=1023602&p_id=2682&seq=1&format=2

If you new comers dont know about monoprice a lot of people on AVS forums respect and love this company (I myself do as well). They offer monster cable quality cables (even designs look similar) for like 1/4-1/5 the price tag. They DO NOT skimp on quality! They always got heavy terminals well soldered and double, triple or quad shielding (depending on what you get)

I own a few HDMI cables from these guys, banana plugs and speaker cable, sub cable, a couple component interconnects ,a optical cable and more. Never really been disappointed once.

Anyhow, whether you use this company or not basically yes just buy a single cable with RCA terminals - Male to Male, that has good shielding on it.. with enough distance to position your sub good.

yes aiwa system is a combo cassette//3cd disk changer.

for the subwoofer is it the rca cable we use?? sorry very dumb questions...

Yes, if you have a decent rca cable you can use it. I got a couple of good ones from Monoprice. If you have a really thin one, I'd be hesitant to use it long term. Does the Aiwa have seperate connections for the tape and CD? Remember tape out of the Aiwa to tape in on the 705. Tape in of Aiwa to tape out on receiver. The CD inputs on the 705 are to the left of the Tape section on the lower left side of the 705. There are no dumb questions - only bad answers - sometimes! Ask on.:)

Just to let everyone know, I had 2 CC coupons and sent them out to the first two takers. They have unique bar codes on them and I suspect that using one more than once will show up in some way on CC's computer system as having been used. If anyone knows anything to the contrary let me know, as a few more people want them.

After re-reading this thread, I realized something might be wrong with my speaker setup.

I have a week-old KEF 3005 speaker set.

After running Audyssey several times (3 to 6 listening points), I keep getting very similar results:

Front L&R*: 150hz, -6 db
Center: 120hz, -10db
L/R Surrounds*: 120hz, -8db
Sub: -14db

*Front and surround speakers are physically identical, in spite of the different frequencies determined by Audyssey.

My room is about 12 by 16. The distance measurements determined by Audyssey are right-on, even for the sub.
Also, apparently it is noteworthy that I have to have the volume turned up to about -12 for TV.

From what I've read in this thread, there is a lot wrong here. But I don't know where to begin.

The KEF manuals state that all these speakers should be set to SMALL, which is apparently equivalent to 80hz.
As for the frequency response, I don't know what their levels are at -3db (I've searched), so I can't follow the +20hz manual setting suggestion I read here. (How does one determine the -3db response point from the specs' crossover freq. of 2.2khz, freq. range of 70hz-55khz?)

I would be much obliged if anyone here with this same speaker set can provide their speaker settings.

I own kef 3005 the auto setup gives be VERY nearly identical specs.

I started the test off with every set at 80hz as per onkyo manual tells you.. then it changes it all the the numbers you gave me. Then I go back and i turn down all my frequency by hand to 80hz ... I keep the distances the same that Audy sets up for me. Despite changing the dynamics of the sub I always crank up my sub db setting. I get best overall effect doing this.

I also personally turn down the center channel 1-2 more db just cause I find it a bit overpowered (thats personal tastes)

PS: The reason it jumps those frequencies back up is because it detects the speakers are small sats (which they are) However, we both know our KEF manual specs say our speakers are capable of 80hz.. so just turn them back down to that after the auto setup. Auto setup is not a waste... it sets up the EQ for you and sets the speaker distances very accurate.

I also own 2 additional KEF sats for the 7.1 channel and my rears get put at 150hz. Its funny (and not so surprising) that both our speaker setups are showing the EXACT same Audy frequency numbers down the board.. only thing that is different is our db settings. (I say tweak these to taste and screw Audy) just don't mess with distance settings cause they correct timing issues (and obviously the EQ is locked out on Audy so no clue whats happening in there)

I own kef 3005 the auto setup gives be VERY nearly identical specs.

I started the test off with every set at 80hz as per onkyo manual tells you.. then it changes it all the the numbers you gave me. Then I go back and i turn down all my frequency by hand to 80hz ... I keep the distances the same that Audy sets up for me. Despite changing the dynamics of the sub I always crank up my sub db setting. I get best overall effect doing this.

I also personally turn down the center channel 1-2 more db just cause I find it a bit overpowered (thats personal tastes)

PS: The reason it jumps those frequencies back up is because it detects the speakers are small sats (which they are) However, we both know our KEF manual specs say our speakers are capable of 80hz.. so just turn them back down to that after the auto setup. Auto setup is not a waste... it sets up the EQ for you and set sthe speaker distances very accurate.

Wow, that was tremendous help (and relief :cool:). Thanks woots!

Thanks; I appreciate your help. How about the levels? Should they ALL be so far from 0 (the center -10db)? My setup is very square, like this:
L -----------C-------------R



-----------(me)------------
LS------------------------RS

Audessey Levels:
Front L&R: -6 db
Center: -10db
L/R Surrounds: -8db
Sub: -14db

I thought following the latest LCD 120hz TV technology was a challange --- but I'm finding it is no where near as complex as audio.:o I simply do not understand this crossover stuff. I guess I need to better educate myself on the basics, speakers 101, or something. I do have the "Setting up your HT 101" FAQ from this forum bookmarked.
Maybe I do need to bite the bullet and buy an SPL meter.:(

It tries to set the channel trims so that when the volume level reads 0, you're at reference level. That's why it is dialing them back that much. However, if you're using the straight numerical volume readout, this doesn't matter... so you could bump all those numbers up 6 and still have balanced channels. If you were being really picky, you'd get a SPL meter and set the trims so all tones read 75dB so that 0 would equal reference level (i.e. 105dB max from speakers, 115dB max from subwoofer). As it is, Audyssey's setup put mine at about 73dB the 3 times I ran it, which means 0 is actually -2 from reference. I use numerical, so I don't worry about it.

It's not unusual for a center speaker to be set 4dB below the mains. Usually, center speakers have a slightly higher sensitivity, meaning they can reach higher levels with the same wattage (usually because they're woofer-tweeter-woofer setups). Also, sometimes speaker placement puts the center channel slightly closer than the mains, meaning it has to turn the center down a bit more.

You might want to back the gain on your sub down a little because of that -14 setting on the sub channel, then re-run Audyssey (or just get a SPL meter and level match it so you don't have to run back through the whole equalization). Having the subwoofer channel set that low can 1) prevent auto-on triggering of your sub if it has it, 2) not drive the pre-out enough, and 3) increase the chances of noise/interference/hum due to higher gain on the sub than necessary.

basically yes 1 channel RCA cable from sub to receiver. Digital Coax cables also work well for sub cables since they are shielded good. (be sure to get one atleast 12 foot long or so, so you have room to position the sub nice)

I use this cable I bought off monoprice..
http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10236&cs_id=1023602&p_id=2682&seq=1&format=2

If you new comers dont know about monoprice a lot of people on AVS forums respect and love this company (I myself do as well). They offer monster cable quality cables (even designs look similar) for like 1/4-1/5 the price tag. They DO NOT skimp on quality! They always got heavy terminals well soldered and double, triple or quad shielding (depending on what you get)

I own a few HDMI cables from these guys, banana plugs and speaker cable, sub cable, a couple component interconnects ,a optical cable and more. Never really been disappointed once.

Anyhow, whether you use this company or not basically yes just buy a single cable with RCA terminals - Male to Male, that has good shielding on it.. with enough distance to position your sub good.

hey woots, but our kef subwoofer has red and white plugins. if i buy the 1 channel rca cable, where does it go on the subwoofer?? confused. I also had Y RCA cable, the one end did not fit on the receiver. so not sure what to do.
any ideas.

This is what i found on the cnet review for this sub

"Connectivity is limited to stereo RCA inputs and outputs -- mating the sub with any 5.1/6.1/7.1 receiver will be a snap." what does this mean. i have a 5.1 setup.

hey woots, but our kef subwoofer has red and white plugins. if i buy the 1 channel rca cable, where does it go on the subwoofer?? confused. I also had Y RCA cable, the one end did not fit on the receiver. so not sure what to do.
any ideas.

This is what i found on the cnet review for this sub

"Connectivity is limited to stereo RCA inputs and outputs -- mating the sub with any 5.1/6.1/7.1 receiver will be a snap." what does this mean. i have a 5.1 setup.

the 3005 and 2005.2 sub are VERY different design. Read the manual it will say. However typically speaking when sub woofer has left and right input for sub you can use just one channel for receivers that feed only one line out like this receiver. I'm sure that 2005 has that too. I am not sure if thats gonna be your left or right channel.

The code for Power toggle became ON. They created codes for Toggle and OFF.So, there is a working power toggle code for the 705? I gotta find this. Perhaps it's available on a CCF file somewhere. I can convert that to JP1.

I realize that discrete power codes are great for macros. But, for simply turning a single device on and off, I prefer a toggle.

hey woots, but our kef subwoofer has red and white plugins. if i buy the 1 channel rca cable, where does it go on the subwoofer?? confused. I also had Y RCA cable, the one end did not fit on the receiver. so not sure what to do.
any ideas.

This is what i found on the cnet review for this sub

"Connectivity is limited to stereo RCA inputs and outputs -- mating the sub with any 5.1/6.1/7.1 receiver will be a snap." what does this mean. i have a 5.1 setup.

Ok look bro i found out your sub is called PSW 2150 (that is the officialy name of the US version of the KEF 2005.2 sub)
http://www.kef.com/KHT/KHT2005.2/sub_US.htm
(http://www.kef.com/KHT/KHT2005.2/sub_US.htm)

And here is a pdf for that exact woofer on ******* http://media.*******.com/Image_Products/KEF/PSW2150_Man.pdf
apprently the devs of AVS forums hate "o-n-e-c-a-l-l" so insert the name everywhere you see *** in that link (remove the dashes from the word too) ... anyone know why we cant type that name... some kinda fight between AVS owner and that site?


Look down at example 6... it shows a graphic on how to hook your sub up to a receiver like ours. Use just the left input channel and ignore the right.

Hope it helps.

hey woots, but our kef subwoofer has red and white plugins. if i buy the 1 channel rca cable, where does it go on the subwoofer?? confused. I also had Y RCA cable, the one end did not fit on the receiver. so not sure what to do.
any ideas.

This is what i found on the cnet review for this sub

"Connectivity is limited to stereo RCA inputs and outputs -- mating the sub with any 5.1/6.1/7.1 receiver will be a snap." what does this mean. i have a 5.1 setup.

Csrini1 - My Hsu sub uses the same setup - 1 RCA to the left input. Standardization does have its virtues. Is your Aiwa working ok?

I used Audessy to set up my system but my SL & SR sound a lil low would it a problem for me to raise it manually and if i do should i raise my LF & LR and center as well???

I used Audessy to set up my system but my SL & SR sound a lil low would it a problem for me to raise it manually and if i do should i raise my LF & LR and center as well???

Uptown193 - It's perfectly fine to crank up your surrounds a few dbs. Nothing is really set in stone as far as what is really correct speaker-wise, altho' many will disagree. Speakers are possibly the most subjective part of our systems. If it sounds good to you, it is good. Adjust your system with some music or movies you are intimately acquainted with and make adjustments to suit your tastes. You are the one who is going to be listening to it and if it sounds good you're there.;)

Csrini1 - My Hsu sub uses the same setup - 1 RCA to the left input. Standardization does have its virtues. Is your Aiwa working ok?

i am still waiting for someone to tell me how to get the aiwa to work. however i tried to plug in the red and white RCA cable from aiwa to receiver under tape, did no luck. agreed i did not give my 100% on this today. i was up till 2am this morning to unpack the 705 and kef and get the dvd working.

only thing i noticed so far on 705 is the click sounds whenever i power it on!!, i did not even try to change from dvd to radio(FM antenna). i thought i read somewhere in these forums that this click sound is common. i will search more in the meantime. Does anyone else hear the click(loud) sound??

I still having the "Wii doesn't stretch to widescreen" problem. My "hidden menu" setting for resolution is set to Auto. I thought a while ago I had fixed this problem by having that set to auto instead of 720p. I haven't used the Wii in a while once I got a new 360 and it seems that the problem is back. The only thing that's changed is adding the aforementioned 360 by HDMI. The Wii is connected through component and all sources are output via HDMI. Has anyone come up with a surefire way to resolve this issue? It's reeeeaaallly annoying. :(

Why would you want to "stretch to widescreen"???? :(

I just got my ONkyo 705 today. Hooked up to my Samsung BluRay BDP-1400 I get DTS MSTR audio and TRUEHD just fine. It lights up in red that I am getting TrueHD and DTS MSTR audio. But on my Toshiba XA2 HDDVD player it displays Dolby TrueHD tracks as Multichannel PCM HDMI on the receiver. I was just wondering if this was normal or if I maybe had something set up wrong. Thanks for any input.

I just got my ONkyo 705 today. Hooked up to my Samsung BluRay BDP-1400 I get DTS MSTR audio and TRUEHD just fine. It lights up in red that I am getting TrueHD and DTS MSTR audio. But on my Toshiba XA2 HDDVD player it displays Dolby TrueHD tracks as Multichannel PCM HDMI on the receiver. I was just wondering if this was normal or if I maybe had something set up wrong. Thanks for any input.

Decepticon07 - Congratulations and welcome! Did your 1400 come with the new firmware or did you update it once you got it? There are other forum members who could give you advice on the Toshiba, but like the Samsung does it have the latest firmware? At least you're covered on all the formats! I've yet to get a high def DVD player.

You might want to back the gain on your sub down a little because of that -14 setting on the sub channel, then re-run Audyssey (or just get a SPL meter and level match it so you don't have to run back through the whole equalization). Having the subwoofer channel set that low can 1) prevent auto-on triggering of your sub if it has it, 2) not drive the pre-out enough, and 3) increase the chances of noise/interference/hum due to higher gain on the sub than necessary.

On my sub (KEF HTB2) I have three switches: one for auto/manual on, one for phase (0 or 180), one for base boost.

I have mine set to auto-on, 0 phase, no base boost.

I'm clueless...how do I back the gain on my sub down a little? Do you mean increase the db level? I reset it to -6. I apologize for being so ignorant. I believe you made this same suggestion to me earlier when I mentioned a uniform hum at high volumes, but then, same as now, I didn't know how to back the gain down.

On my sub (KEF HTB2) I have three switches: one for auto/manual on, one for phase (0 or 180), one for base boost.

I have mine set to auto-on, 0 phase, no base boost.

I'm clueless...how do I back the gain on my sub down a little? Do you mean increase the db level? I reset it to -6. I apologize for being so ignorant. I believe you made this same suggestion to me earlier when I mentioned a uniform hum at high volumes, but then, same as now, I didn't know how to back the gain down.

Transcend - When Jeremy refers to gain, he means the volume control on your sub. I'm assuming yours has one on the back. Mine said to try it at about half and I left it on that before I did the Audyssey setup. It originally gave me a reading of -15 and it didn't sound terribly impressive, so I went to the speaker settings menu on the 705 and boosted it about 5 db and it really came to life. I have similar switches to the ones you mentioned and haven't touched them since then. I never played with the 0/180 switch after the Audyssey setup either since it seemed to be working fine and I didn't want to risk messing it up!

Decepticon07 - Congratulations and welcome! Did your 1400 come with the new firmware or did you update it once you got it? There are other forum members who could give you advice on the Toshiba, but like the Samsung does it have the latest firmware? At least you're covered on all the formats! I've yet to get a high def DVD player.

Yeah I have the latest firmware for the 1400. I have the 2.5 firmware for the XA2, I think 2.6 is out. I need to get it. Does anyone else know about how the XA2 TrueHD shows up on the 705?

The Toshiba as of now cannot bitstream Dolby Digital +, TrueHD or DTS-HD-MA. A firmware available this month is suppost to enable the bitstream feature. The Toshiba player however decodes Dolby Digital+ & TrueHD and sends the signal to the receiver as a 5.1 PCM signal to the receiver. That is why you are seeing Multichannel PCM on the 705 but you are actualy hearing the Dolby TrueHD signal. The Toshiba player doesn't decode the DTS-HD-MA signal so in this case you are actually hearing the core track which is just plain DTS.

Transcend - When Jeremy refers to gain, he means the volume control on your sub. I'm assuming yours has one on the back.

No, just those three switches I mentioned. No volume control.

Why would you want to "stretch to widescreen"???? :(

I just want it to fill the whole screen...without having to “stretch” it manually It's still displaying a 4:3 picture, though it's set to widescreen in the Wii settings.

Question. In order to fit on a shelf of my TV stand, it would be best if I removed the 4 feet at the bottom of the 705 reciever. Any problems with doing this?

Thanks in advance.

I personally wouldn't see a problem with that. If anything it just may scratch the wood or glass underneath.

Question. In order to fit on a shelf of my TV stand, it would be best if I removed the 4 feet at the bottom of the 705 reciever. Any problems with doing this?

Thanks in advance.

As long as the unit doesn't get some of its airflow from the bottom (I haven't looked at the bottom of mine, I should get to know it better) :) I don't think there are vents in the bottom, but worth checking.

And, I'm sure you wouldn't be stacking it on top of another unit....

Last thing, most concern, does this mean you don't have room on the top for air to escape? What about sides?

Basically, there should be some airflow to circulate (cool air in, warm air out)

Let us know how it works out!

Al

The 705 takes in air through the bottom and out the top. There are 2 small fans on the bottom of the unit, protected by standoffs so they don't get blocked.

No, just those three switches I mentioned. No volume control.

Wow... Just pulled the manual for the HTB2, and you're right - no gain control. Not much you can do about that then. The Bass Boost control lets you bump it up +3 or +6, but it looks like it only increases around 40Hz, not overall gain.

If you have it at 0 already, leave it.

Did you have to pay for it online with credit card or did you pay for it in the store?

Paid for it online with my credit card. There were several options but I really didn't look to see what they were (may have just been the credit choices).
Edit: just catching up on the thread. I like the idea of buying a gift card if they won't price match themselves.

Hi everyone. Just unpacked mine and got it set up. I have one question though. I seems to me that the volume does not get very loud. I'm watching a movie at what I would consider a normal movie volume, and the display says 62. Well the max volume is 87 i think. This does not seem right to me. The Sony receiver that died on me had 100 watts per channel as well, and was WAY louder than the Onkyo. Am I missing something, or possibly have a setting turned off? It seems to be working normally, but the volume issue is worrisome to me. Any input is greatly appreciated. Thanks.

I can only speak for myself. I just hooked it up. Haven't had any time to really set it up. Volume starts out at negative something. At 0 it has my floor above vibrating. When I crank it up above that it is deafening. My guess (and it is just that) would be something is not set up correctly.
Edit: uptown (I think) had a good suggestion. Did that work for you?

Wow... Just pulled the manual for the HTB2, and you're right - no gain control. Not much you can do about that then. The Bass Boost control lets you bump it up +3 or +6, but it looks like it only increases around 40Hz, not overall gain.

If you have it at 0 already, leave it.
Thanks. It sounds good, so I guess I won't worry about it. I had to bump the sub level back down to -7db last night; -6db became too much.

A side note: I reached around the receiver and gently pushed in all the speaker wires to insure they were secure; however I did feel some give there, so the manual banana crimping I did definitely wasn't sufficient (I just don't have the muscles for it :rolleyes:). I did use a stripper/crimping tool, but it was pretty much worthless in my hands (for both purposes).

I ordered some banana Monster QuickLocks which should resolve that problem. I personally wouldn't recommend manual-crimp banana plugs to a small-framed girl like myself lacking a fully-equipped craftsman's garage, that's for sure. :o I hadn't found any record of anyone else having issues with using manual-crimp banana plugs before I tried them, so now here it is for anyone else's benefit. It isn't as easy as the internet tutorials imply.

I'm very jealous of all you 7.1 folk :D...very tempted to pick up 2 more speakers so I can get all those add'l listening modes. The only thing stopping me is having to mount them on the wall; all the others are on stands (yeah, I bought 2 sets of those expensive KEF speaker stands - worth it for someone lacking tool-IQ like myself).

I'm very jealous of all you 7.1 folk :D...very tempted to pick up 2 more speakers so I can get all those add'l listening modes. The only thing stopping me is having to mount them on the wall; all the others are on stands (yeah, I bought 2 sets of those expensive KEF speaker stands - worth it for someone lacking tool-IQ like myself).

After runnin 7.1 here for the last month I have long since gotten over the thrill of it. However the 1st things you notice with 7.1 vs 5.1 is a sense of total immersion in the sound. Especially when the sounds coming from all directions. Sometimes I freak out and think someone is knocking at my door, or the phone is ringing, or someone is shouting from outside.... cause I get such freaky surround track sound effect going on in all directions. (usually from from extreme rear 2 channels)

If your jealous of 7.1 don't be... cause it looks like 10.2 may be on the way... lol.. now THAT is overkill if you ask me... however I do like the 2 sub idea of 10.2....id love to have 7.2 http://www.electronichouse.com/article/beyond_51_inventor_of_thx_hopes_so/
(http://www.electronichouse.com/article/beyond_51_inventor_of_thx_hopes_so/)

Also, if you ever get brave enough to wall mount your KEF's bookmark this link. http://www.naturalhandyman.com/iip/inffastener/infanchor/infanchor.html
To save you a lil energy.. I used the "metal" EZ drywall anchors you see on that page (avoid plastic anchors for hanging heavy things... stick to metal)... anyway they are super easy to install and MORE then enough to hold those KEF's up and then some! If you know how to use a screw driver you can use those ez drywall anchors... just buy a stud finder to make sure you don't hit any electrical wires or studs or pipes... the modern stud finders will let you know. A lil laser level like those black and decker bullseye are affordable and will help you line up your rear speakers real easy.. I wall mounted all my KEFs and got them all even around the room with that B&D Bullseyes.. nothing like playing with lasers beams to make work fun!.. btw that bullseye has a stud/pipe/AC finder built in... 50 bucks mission impossible laser toy and a 2 dollar box of EZ drywall anchors and a 2 dollar screw driver and you got your rear speakers. :D

PS: if you wanna fish your wire down the wall and come out the baseboards.. just make sure there isnt a cross support connected between the studs blocking you from dropping the wire down the wall. (use the stud finder will be easy to spot) If are unlucky and cant drop the wire down and do not wish to tear down drywall and send wires through... they sell flat paintable wire... its very low profile and you could even plaster tape that stuff off and plaster over it and feather out the edges and do a lil paint over and it wont look ugly.

I guess I'll respond to this, yep thats kleenex (not used) and my GF's almond hand lotion. I have never violated my HT setup that way. Only the computer gets that sort of attention;)


and when the computer is connected to that display and the GF is away... LOL

lol so busted in that picture.....

;}


There should be some type of AVS Forum picture award for that....

On my 605 at 1080p or 1080i I don't get any OSD overlaid on the regular image. Doesn't HDMI repeater/pass-through mean that the signal just passes through the receiver HDMI from the source to the display device without any alteration? Maybe the 705 is different from the 605 though the spec lists it the same as "HDMI V1.3 repeater"

If I remember correctly, the manual states you will not see the OSD (on a hdmi connected display) if the input source is connected with component or hdmi..

I don't get the OSD on my setup, but I'm all hdmi..... (I'm not talking about the setup menus, I get those...)

[EDIT] It's on page 93 (right column) of the manual:

"Even when On is selected (Setup/Miscellaneous/OSD Setup/Immediate Display), operation details may not be output if the input source is connected to a COMPONENT VIDEO IN or HDMI IN. For optimal video performance, THX recommends that Immediate Display be turned off."

I'm curious about their use of the term 'may not'... Can anyone see the OSD on a hdmi connected display and if so, for what source input(s)?


On Another Note:

I have not tested this yet, but the AV Component Hookup Sheet that comes with the 705 appears to state that a source connected to the HDMI IN3 Port will not output the Audio to the receiver's speakers, only HDMI IN1 and IN2(see top left of that sheet)....

Does anyone have a source connected to HDMI IN3 (and getting audio from the speakers)?

Paid for it online with my credit card. There were several options but I really didn't look to see what they were (may have just been the credit choices).
Edit: just catching up on the thread. I like the idea of buying a gift card if they won't price match themselves.

so if i buy a gift card for $640 i should be able to do the online purchase and use the AAA coupon?