Please advice if it is safe and correct to connect all audio equipments (Rear projection LCD TV; DVD; Receiver; DVR) to the Panamax power surge protection, then Panamax to UPS, then UPS to the wall.

Many thanks in advance!!!!!!!! Kev.

If you plug the Panamax into the one of the battery backup ports of the UPS, you'll most likely surpass the wattage of the UPS. So if the power goes out, all of your devices will instantly turn off.

If you buy a good UPS with surge protection, you shouldn't need to also add the Panamax surge protection to the mix. Even if you plug a TV and DVR into the UPS, it's not to to last very long.

www.tripplite.com has a good selection of UPS units and lists their backup times.

What does Panamax say about this scenario? Myself, I'd run them separately and not chain them. Were I forced to chain them, I'd have it outlet>surge protector>UPS. Now, don't forget about the incoming cable or satellite feed and also consider a whole house unit if you've got your own place.

I am doing this now and I got a good UPS (I think) APC 750XL, but I thought the Panamax would do a better surge protection.

.........If you buy a good UPS with surge protection, you shouldn't need to also add the Panamax surge protection to the mix. Even if you plug a TV and DVR into the UPS, it's not to to last very long.

I have not talk to Panamax about this. I did this before (outlet>surge protector>UPS) but I changed to have TV and DVR>UPS>Wall without Panamax, currently. I am still trying to figure out the best way and the right way for all these connections.

Thanks for helping guys! Kev.

What does Panamax say about this scenario? Myself, I'd run them separately and not chain them. Were I forced to chain them, I'd have it outlet>surge protector>UPS. Now, don't forget about the incoming cable or satellite feed and also consider a whole house unit if you've got your own place.

Frankly, I would only use UPS for computer, projector, or anything else that might have hard drives, or require special cool down period before full power down.

I would probably do: Wall -> Panamax -> Some devices + UPS -> special needs devices.

-- if I owned the ups and panamax.

Frankly, I would only use UPS for computer, projector, or anything else that might have hard drives, or require special cool down period before full power down.

I would probably do: Wall -> Panamax -> Some devices + UPS -> special needs devices.

-- if I owned the ups and panamax.

This would bring up a great point...what happens to a projector if the power goes out while it is in use...? I assume it cant be good, but what damage does it cause long term and short.

what happens to a projector if the power goes out while it is in use...? I assume it cant be good, but what damage does it cause long term and short.

Anything from "increased wear" to "catastrophic failure." That's why many people around here highly recommend getting a UPS when you get a projector.

Btw: a 750 VA UPS is about 550 watts (VA != watts), which might be marginal if you have more than one high-draw device on it. If you have a beefy HTPC, a HDR and a projector all in the same UPS, I would suggest a 1200 VA or higher.

Since it is just a projector or a television that needs a cool down really, how much battery would either require

This might help you, http://www.apc.com/products/runtime_for_extendedruntime.cfm?upsfamily=23

Am I doing my math right here.

52 inch LCD = about 400 watts
Receiver = about 800 watts
XBox = about 200 watts
TV Box = about 100 watts
Subwoofer = about 500 watts
Room for growth = about 500 watts

Does this mean I need over a 2500 W UPS? Or should I just pick and choose what to protect? What should I protect?

You should read your instruction manuals to see how much power each device uses. If you hook up every one of those devices to a UPS, it will immediately shut down since it can't support the power draw from all of those devices.

For example, I have a Tripp Lite SMART1000LCD, which is rated at 1000va/500watts. That means it will have a battery backup life of 3 minutes full load runtime (1000VA / 500 watts), 11 minutes half load runtime (500VA / 250 watts). I only use it to power my TV (250 watts) and HD-DVR (100 watts) in case of brief power loss. So I would get under 10 minutes just powering those two devices in the event of power loss. I'd get even more if just my HD-DVR is running.

Unless you plan on spending an obscene amount of money for an industrial battery backup, you're looking at very short run times.
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=896374

Am I doing my math right here.

52 inch LCD = about 400 watts
Receiver = about 800 watts
XBox = about 200 watts
TV Box = about 100 watts
Subwoofer = about 500 watts
Room for growth = about 500 watts

Does this mean I need over a 2500 W UPS? Or should I just pick and choose what to protect? What should I protect?

You need to have power for all the items you wish to remain powered in the event of a loss of power. Wow, that was a lot of use of the word power!

Anyway, if you lost power, you would immediately turn off the TV, XBox, and Receiver, and maybe the subwoofer (if it had a power off switch). All you would be running is cooling fans and the small drain to keep clocks set, etc.

A 1300 or 1500 KVA would be plenty.

Am I doing my math right here.

52 inch LCD = about 400 watts
Receiver = about 800 watts
XBox = about 200 watts
TV Box = about 100 watts
Subwoofer = about 500 watts
Room for growth = about 500 watts

Does this mean I need over a 2500 W UPS? Or should I just pick and choose what to protect? What should I protect?

NO! While the power consumption ratings on the hardware should be used for sizing circuits etc., they are not quite right for an UPS unless you intend to operate everything full blast from the battery.Your receiver and sub woofer will rarely draw as much as 800 and 500 Watts. Your LCD TV will draw less than 400 Watts unless you are at eyeball blasting brightness.

Yes. Only put the devices that need an orderly shut down on the UPS--projectors and computers are really the only ones.