Hello all,

I have a Dwin HD-700. I've had it since 2000. It's been a bit of trouble and was shipped back to CA once, but I suppose that's OK over 7 years.

Now, when I hit the power button, the 700 crackles and turns itself off. (Well, I guess it goes into a stand-by or error mode. The green light on the front flashes rapidly.) The tubes do not light at all. When I turn the PJ on in total darkness, I do see some light coming from the power supply area, but that's it.

The 700 has been crackling for quite a while. It gets worse with greater humidity. Humidity was really high last night when I was watching a movie. It actually took a couple of tries to get the Dwin to turn on, which has happened in the past. Then, about 45 minutes into the movie, it just shut off. Since then, the tubes have not lit and I've tried to power it up numerous times. I even ran a dehumidifier underneath it, brought the humidity level down to about 50% and tried... no good.

I was hoping that I'd find a solution looking at Steve Bruzonsky's recent thread regarding a similar problem, but it sounds like I might have to call Dwin. With approx. $200 shipping one-way to CA + approx. $400 minimum for repairs, this is an expensive option.

Any ideas? Thanks for any help.

Mike

If you take off the top cover, chances are you'll see where the crackle is coming from. Chances are you have an HV arc somewhere. Don't fire the set up too often as you stand to kill other stuff as 34,000 volts is shooting around the set.

I have a scrap DWIN that will have whatever part you need. I'll be cheaper than $40o. Can you put in a dehumidifier? Humidity and 34Kv is never a good mix.

Hi Curt,

I've been surfing this forum for about 7 years. I think you helped me the last time that I had a Dwin problem. Thanks for responding.

I looked for an arc. I don't see one, but I do see a light in the power supply area just before the Dwin shuts down. I was expecting a bluish light, but it looks like the shine of a small flashlight. I hope I haven't already killed other components.

I always run my dehumidifier before firing up the Dwin on humid days. Although, I will admit that I don't leave it running during a movie because it's too loud and, to me, that invalidates one of the main reasons I own the Dwin in the first place.

Thanks for offering parts. I'm definitely interested. I remember reading that a power-up problem can only be caused by the motherboard or power supply itself. I'm not sure of my next steps. Should I replace the power supply and hope for the best?

Thanks again.

Mike

Re-seat all the major boards, then try again.

Hello all,

I have a Dwin HD-700. I've had it since 2000. It's been a bit of trouble and was shipped back to CA once, but I suppose that's OK over 7 years.

Now, when I hit the power button, the 700 crackles and turns itself off. (Well, I guess it goes into a stand-by or error mode. The green light on the front flashes rapidly.) The tubes do not light at all. When I turn the PJ on in total darkness, I do see some light coming from the power supply area, but that's it.

The 700 has been crackling for quite a while. It gets worse with greater humidity. Humidity was really high last night when I was watching a movie. It actually took a couple of tries to get the Dwin to turn on, which has happened in the past. Then, about 45 minutes into the movie, it just shut off. Since then, the tubes have not lit and I've tried to power it up numerous times. I even ran a dehumidifier underneath it, brought the humidity level down to about 50% and tried... no good.

I was hoping that I'd find a solution looking at Steve Bruzonsky's recent thread regarding a similar problem, but it sounds like I might have to call Dwin. With approx. $200 shipping one-way to CA + approx. $400 minimum for repairs, this is an expensive option.

Any ideas? Thanks for any help.

Mike


You "may" have the same problem I had,
high voltage focus connector arcing near the power supply.
It's a simple fix, just twenty minutes
and two 4" inch pieces of shrink tube.


Continued arcing will eventually blow the output
so it's imperative to correct the problem immediately!

Yup, pull that power supply out and do as he says. Otherwise I can swap you for a working supply that I have here.

There are no major boards to reseat in a DWIN HD 700

Just a mother board and power supply thats a DWIN HD700

Oooh. I pulled out the power supply. The white plastic connector for focus HV is burnt at its back end where the red wire protrudes! This could be it. I need to go buy some shrink tube and I will try the recommended fix. This will be great if this works! (I hope nothing has been fried by the arcing.)

Oooh. I pulled out the power supply. The white plastic connector for focus HV is burnt at its back end where the red wire protrudes! This could be it. I need to go buy some shrink tube and I will try the recommended fix. This will be great if this works! (I hope nothing has been fried by the arcing.)


Make sure you use an electric hot air heat-gun
or some other clean heat source to shrink the
shrink-tube. Do not use a match or cigarette
lighter, the yellow flame may leave a
conductive carbon residue possibly creating
a new high voltage arcing path somewhere else.

I had the power supply out but didn't look over the area in the picture, looks like it's inside out of view. I'll have to pull the thing apart again and check that part over. I had the fast flickering led light and then no video. Good thing I have a heat gun from repairing car seats. Could be most of the Dwins are going down from the same problem. Saves owners a hell of a hasle, cuts Dwins bottom line. It pays to read forums.
thx

I had the power supply out but didn't look over the area in the picture, looks like it's inside out of view. I'll have to pull the thing apart again and check that part over. I had the fast flickering led light and then no video. Good thing I have a heat gun from repairing car seats. Could be most of the Dwins are going down from the same problem. Saves owners a hell of a hasle, cuts Dwins bottom line. It pays to read forums.
thx



Yep, it's a common problem.

As for getting full access to the high voltage focus connector, you only need
to remove four small screws and one plug to free the high voltage transformer
cage from the power supply.

Next, remove what should be two white plastic clamps, slip a four inch piece
of shrink-tube over the connector and its red wire, shrink well, slip on another
piece and shrink again.

Now it's double-insulated and ready for reassembly. The white clamps may
need to be positioned differently because of the increased diameter of the
newly shrink-tubed connector.:D

I would say all Dwin owners should venture into doing this upgrade, even if they don't have a problem now. Safety first :)
My Dwin HD500 should arrive Tuesday, I'll be fixing that one up also.

Nice catch 2ndAnode, I owe you a Cohiba.

Drats, looks like Dwin upgraded the problem for my HD700. The plastic attached to the metel is longer than on your pictured part. Still there's allot of black spots on the plastic which is thin and a little on the metal. We see what happens when I attach the heavier plastic.
http://www.cigarbest.com/sales/dwinps.jpg

The red connecting wires insulation looks different also.

Wait hold the stagecoach, I just found what looks like a burnt cap, what to you think normal age from heat or burnt up?
I'll see if I can get a match over at radio shack when I'm getting the shrink tube. Surprising neither of the fuses are blown.
http://www.cigarbest.com/sales/dwinps1.jpg
http://www.cigarbest.com/sales/dwinps2.jpg
http://www.cigarbest.com/sales/dwinps3.jpg

Couple more pictures.
http://www.cigarbest.com/sales/dwinps4.jpg Transformer on the right looks suspect.

Done with shielding.
http://www.cigarbest.com/sales/dwinps5.jpg

Hey I'm no electrical guy, what should I be careful around when handling this board?
thx

On the cap it says STM CL-60 I assume that means 60v. Only thing open today is Frys and Rat Shack niether were able to help me. On the board the writing code is R1, I see other R designations and some C designations, what do these codes mean? Is it resistor vs capacitor?

Drats, looks like Dwin upgraded the problem for my HD700. The plastic attached to the metel is longer than on your pictured part. Still there's allot of black spots on the plastic which is thin and a little on the metal. We see what happens when I attach the heavier plastic.
http://www.cigarbest.com/sales/dwinps.jpg

The red connecting wires insulation looks different also.

Wait hold the stagecoach, I just found what looks like a burnt cap, what to you think normal age from heat or burnt up?
I'll see if I can get a match over at radio shack when I'm getting the shrink tube. Surprising neither of the fuses are blown.
http://www.cigarbest.com/sales/dwinps1.jpg
http://www.cigarbest.com/sales/dwinps2.jpg
http://www.cigarbest.com/sales/dwinps3.jpg

Couple more pictures.
http://www.cigarbest.com/sales/dwinps4.jpg Transformer on the right looks suspect.

Done with shielding.
http://www.cigarbest.com/sales/dwinps5.jpg

Hey I'm no electrical guy, what should I be careful around when handling this board?
thx



Nope, that's hardly an upgrade. I have seen that added rubber boot placed
on some of their projectors and the connector would arc somewhere else,
usually around one or both of the two clamp screws. If it didn't arc,
it would hiss and sometimes emit a weird ozone smell while
the projector is in operation.

It's no big deal as long as the shrink-tube has enough diameter to also slip
over that rubber boot.

The purpose of installing the shrink-tube is to increase the distance required
for the opportunistic arc to seek ground. The metal contact inside
the connector is where the arc originates from. The arc can easily travel a short
distance straight through or around the back of the connector's plastic body
to ground. I have some doubts about the high voltage rating of the connector that
is being used for carrying the Focus supply. The connector looks like a general
purpose connector that may be rated for 120 volts maximum, I don't know.

With a double shrink-tube installed over the connector, rubber boot (if there's one) and a portion of
the red wire the arc would have to travel two inches before it could reach ground.
Fortunately the focus voltage is not extremely high so this fix works very well.

Now, you have to find a some shrink-tube that is large enough to fit over that
rubber boot. :rolleyes:

The fix has held well for so long I don't remember if my projector had a
rubber boot or if I removed it before installing the shrink-tube.
If you elect to remove the boot don't try to cut it off because there is
a high risk of nicking the red wire. The pin with its attached wire can be
released from the plastic connector from the front using a small pointed instrument.
After that, slip the boot off and reinsert the wire back into the connector.




As for RT1, that appears to be a special temperature resistor.
They are often used to reduce inrush currents caused by plugging the projector
into the AC mains and/or when the projector is being turned on. It is not
uncommon to see this kind of component discolored because these resistors
can and often do operate at high temperatures. It's probably OK.



BTW: nice pics, I can even read the color bands on the small resistors.
Pictures can be very useful later if a component burns up beyond recognition.

http://www.cigarbest.com/sales/dwinps5.jpg looks good too:)


When the HD-700 is unplugged from the AC mains, violent tube implosion is probably
the only dangerous element that never goes away. This chassis' components do not appear to
hold any kind of electrical charge, I have never been bitten by this set in all the
numerous times of extracting any of its circuit boards. However, the CRT anode wires may have a
charge but the risk is low if they are left connected in their proper place.

Looks good but I must have another problem. Hooked up the scaler and DVD player and it reacts the same. Normal standby slow blinking light, turn on the sources and the light goes steady but still no light out of the tubes. I checked the Faroudja's setup and it looks right, no sync on green, inverted, and output RGB, set to YcBcr signal.

If anybody suspects they have an arc at this PS area, I used 4" X 1/2" shrink

Looks good but I must have another problem. Hooked up the scaler and DVD player and it reacts the same. Normal standby slow blinking light, turn on the sources and the light goes steady but still no light out of the tubes. I checked the Faroudja's setup and it looks right, no sync on green, inverted, and output RGB, set to YcBcr signal.

If anybody suspects they have an arc at this PS area, I used 4" X 1/2" shrink


1) Turn off the projector.
2) Remove all five BNC input cables from the projector.
3) Unplug the projector's power cord.
4) Wait about 15 seconds.
5) Reconnect the projector's power cord.
6) Do NOT reconnect the BNC input cables at this time.
6) Turn on the projector using the DWIN's remote control.

What happens?

Ok I did that, the projector won't turn on, no green light or fans.

Ok I did that, the projector won't turn on, no green light or fans.

The green LED is completely out?

Yes it's out. But the minute I connect the BNC's and turn on the Faroudja they'll be a 1 click sound and the fans would go on, green light steady. If I turn off the Faroujda the light will go to slow flash standby.

With that test what happens with your projector?

Yes it's out. But the minute I connect the BNC's and turn on the Faroudja they'll be a 1 click sound and the fans would go on, green light steady. If I turn of the Faroujda the light will go to slow flash standby.

That's strange. The LED is supposed to blink slowly
when the projector is OFF. Is this a HD-500 or HD-700?

Hd700

Hd700


HD-700 OK,
When the fans are running, can you hear a soft repeated
ticking sound coming from the front of the projector?
You may have to place your ear on the vent near the
Green Lens to hear this sound.

I couldn't hear anything but the fans.

I couldn't hear anything but the fans.


That's good,

When the fans are running can you see the tube necks glowing?

I didn't tell you, I did get it to function correctly without any BNC connections. I was able to get the slow flashing green light. Hit the remotes power button would have no change, it was stay in standby mode.

That's good,

When the fans are running can you see the tube necks glowing?

Yes they all glow.

Yes they all glow.

While the fans are running, can you turn OFF the
projector using only the DWIN remote control?

No can't turn it off with the remote when it's going.

No can't turn it off with the remote when it's going.



If the DWIN remote control is a "SL-8000" made by Home Theater Master
you may want to perform these steps:

1) Press "TV" and "MUTE" together and release, the word "SET" should appear.
2) press 1, 7, 7 and then press "TV" to finish. "PASS" will appear.
3) Try the power button on the remote. It should turn the projector On and Off.

Yes it's one of those, I have two of them one came with Art Mrhifi's Transcoder. I'm not using that one because he reprogrammed it. I'll reset my HD700 remote, see what happens.

Ok that fixed the remote, it will turn off or on the PJ at any time. Still no picture there must be something going on electrically because when this started the LED light flickered very fast. That's when the trouble started. Although the light will read out correctly now.

Ok that fixed the remote, it will turn off or on the PJ at any time. Still no picture there must be something going on electrically because when this started the LED light flickered very fast. That's when the trouble started. Although the light will read out correctly now.

With the working DWIN remote control try the steps listed below again.

1) Turn off the projector.
2) Remove all five BNC input cables from the projector.
3) Unplug the projector's power cord.
4) Wait about 15 seconds.
5) Reconnect the projector's power cord.
6) Do NOT reconnect the BNC input cables at this time.
6) Turn on the projector using the DWIN's remote (you just programmed) control.

What happens now?

Awesome!! It worked!! I just finished shrink-tubing the connector and re-assembling the pj. I used two 4" pieces of 1/2" tubing, used electrical tape to pinch the end of the shrink tube to the wire, and used a few layers of electrical tape on the housing itself. Basically, I followed your instructions as closely as possible. I couldn't get the screws that hold the clips to go in all the way, but the clips were solidly holding the connector when I reassembled the power supply.

This is great!! My 700 has been crackling intermittently for close to a year and I have a feeling that I won't have to deal with that anymore.

Guys, thanks a mill. I did this repair with my little kids helping/watching and it was cool to meet with success at the end.

guitarman, I hope you get your pj working. I've been saved twice by people in this forum, so, I'd say the odds are with you.

Ok I can turn it off and on. No light from the lenses, light at the back of the tubes though.

Awesome!! It worked!! I just finished shrink-tubing the connector and re-assembling the pj. I used two 4" pieces of 1/2" tubing, used electrical tape to pinch the end of the shrink tube to the wire, and used a few layers of electrical tape on the housing itself. Basically, I followed your instructions as closely as possible. I couldn't get the screws that hold the clips to go in all the way, but the clips were solidly holding the connector when I reassembled the power supply.

This is great!! My 700 has been crackling intermittently for close to a year and I have a feeling that I won't have to deal with that anymore.

Guys, thanks a mill. I did this repair with my little kids helping/watching and it was cool to meet with success at the end.

guitarman, I hope you get your pj working. I've been saved twice by people in this forum, so, I'd say the odds are with you.


Goods news, sounds so easy!

Ok I can turn it off and on. No light from the lenses, light at the back of the tubes though.

The projector should display this message, "NO SIGNAL" on the
screen while it's operating with nothing connected to it.

Something is preventing the high voltage from coming up.
If everything is connected properly I would check the
inductor (L3) on the main board for an open circuit.
Probing it with a non-conductive object while the
projector is ON may cause the projector to fully power up.
The copper winding is known to fail right where it's
soldered to its leads. If something does happen
while probing the inductor immediately turn OFF the projector
and repair the connection(s) on the inductor (L3).

I just realized I said how great this forum is to a guy who has over 10,000 posts. :)

The projector should display this message, "NO SIGNAL" on the
screen while it's operating with nothing connected to it.

Something is preventing the high voltage from coming up.
If everything is connected properly I would check the
inductor (L3) on the main board for an open circuit.
Probing it with a non-conductive object while the
projector is ON may cause the projector to fully power up.
The copper winding is known to fail right where it's
soldered to its leads. If something does happen
while probing the inductor immediately turn OFF the projector
and repair the connection(s) on the inductor (L3).

Ok tomorrow I'll tap on the L3 connections with a chop stick. :)
goodnight

10,000 posts, I must have had an easy day job, or no job like I have now. And I don't want one. :)

Touching the leads wouldn't turn the PJ on. That's a very small area to do re-soldering, looks tuff.

Well... the pj was pretty good for an hour. There was no crackle when it started up and it ran quietly the entire time. (That was great!) I did have some intermittent interference in the pic, so I rerouted the AC cable with respect to the video cable and everything "seemed" to be OK. Then, about 20minutes later, it just shut off. I waited a bit and turned it back on, but only the fans came on when I did that. I shut if off. I waited again. Then, when I turned it on... no fans... nothing. The green led showed solid for a couple of seconds and then it went back to its slow-blinking state.

This is not what was happening before I made the repair. (I was hearing a crack and getting a fast-blinking led then.) Now, this happens consistently when I try to turn the pj on. I hear a click when I hit the power button and a click a couple of seconds later just before the light returns to the slow-blinking state. There is no trace of light anywhere in the set; no apparent arc and no light at all from the fronts or backs of the tubes. I just seems like nothing at all is happening. Darn.

I suppose I'll remove the power supply and reconnect it to see if that helps, but I'm not very hopeful that that will fix the problem.

Touching the leads wouldn't turn the PJ on. That's a very small area to do re-soldering, looks tuff.



Well, the simple stuff has been exhausted.

The Inductor needs to come out in order to reflow its copper to lead connections properly.
There may also be one or two shorted transistors on the main board near L3. Q6 and/or Q7
may have to be replaced as a result of possible abnormal L3 connections.

This kind of work is much more involved requiring excellent desoldering
skills and most importantly a lot of patience. The printed circuit board in this
set is a through-hole type and is double sided. Removing components from this board
is difficult and damaging if you don't have enough PC board desoldering experience.
This is where having DWIN perform the work may be a prudent solution because this is a board
level repair requiring at least some basic test equipment and understanding on how
to check transistor junctions for short circuits.

I'm not sure how far you want to go inside the beast, most reach their comfort limit when
performing the high voltage Focus connector shrink-tube mod.

Well... the pj was pretty good for an hour. There was no crackle when it started up and it ran quietly the entire time. (That was great!) I did have some intermittent interference in the pic, so I rerouted the AC cable with respect to the video cable and everything "seemed" to be OK. Then, about 20minutes later, it just shut off. I waited a bit and turned it back on, but only the fans came on when I did that. I shut if off. I waited again. Then, when I turned it on... no fans... nothing. The green led showed solid for a couple of seconds and then it went back to its slow-blinking state.

This is not what was happening before I made the repair. (I was hearing a crack and getting a fast-blinking led then.) Now, this happens consistently when I try to turn the pj on. I hear a click when I hit the power button and a click a couple of seconds later just before the light returns to the slow-blinking state. There is no trace of light anywhere in the set; no apparent arc and no light at all from the fronts or backs of the tubes. I just seems like nothing at all is happening. Darn.

I suppose I'll remove the power supply and reconnect it to see if that helps, but I'm not very hopeful that that will fix the problem.

A known and common inductor problem (L3) will cause intermittent projector
shut-downs as well as incomplete start-ups.

See image "leads.JPG"

Fix this problem if it exists before it blows Q6 and/or Q7.
If you are able to occasionally power-up your projector
completely it's not too late.

We don't have to take the board out do we?

We don't have to take the board out do we?

Oh yes, the board would have to come out.

Ugh, I'm just glad I have a working HD500 being delivered tomorrow. I got this 97" diag mat white screen I just bought for the HD700 and want to use it. First thing I noticed when I went from a 120" to the 97" is the resolution tightned up, looked allot better. 4.3 screen for me.
Thanks for the input 2ndAnode.

Ugh, I'm just glad I have a working HD500 being delivered tomorrow. I got this 97" diag mat white screen I just bought for the HD700 and want to use it. First thing I noticed when I went from a 120" to the 97" is the resolution tightned up, looked allot better. 4.3 screen for me.
Thanks for the input 2ndAnode.

You're welcome,

The HD-500 should look very good on a 97" screen.
I'm running my HD-700 on a very large 133" screen.
I posted some (5) recent screen shots here
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=900831&page=5
near the bottom third of the page.

I just picked up a HD700 to get my feet wet again with CRT. I miss my previous 700. I just ordered a HDFURY from Curts site!!

Behold! The owner of the biggest worldwide a/v site has spoken!

He owns..... a CRT!

(if that shouldn't send CRT sales through the roof, I don't know what will)


;)

Curt

I ordered the HDFURY late last night surfing your site ( kick ass by the way )
and I woke this morn with a tracking number in my email. Im impressed:)

Alan, is it used?

Alan, is it used?

Very low hours on the tubes. Estimated at a few hundred. The tubes show no usage ware. I get the break her in:)

Oh good.

Very low hours on the tubes. Estimated at a few hundred. The tubes show no usage ware. I get the break her in:)

Um, I think we need a new thread on this. :D;)

Cliffy

It will be a few weeks before I have everything but I promises to start a thread with some pics:)

Curt

I ordered the HDFURY late last night surfing your site ( kick ass by the way )
and I woke this morn with a tracking number in my email. Im impressed:)
I was up late as well packing boxes. (Kidding!)
Thank Franck of HKmod (he's the project manager behind the HDfury)... he's really got a slick operation running. The best part is that you'll actually have the thing in 2/3 days - all the way from Taiwan! I've never seen shipping this fast, not to mention going 1/2 way around the world.

Welcome back to the CRT world Alan! If you need manuals/tips on the Dwin 700, pop on back to Curt's site and go to this section: http://www.curtpalme.com/Dwin.shtm

Kal

I'll have to see what HDfury means. Well I got my HD500, Transcanner and 50' canare cable delivered here today. Everythings perfect, HD500 guns haven't a hint of wear just like the installer told me. Don't these things toast up? :)

I have the HD500 sitting on a coffee table right in front of me. You'd laugh if you saw my one man show on unpacking moving the 70lbs, entails rolling and then blanket sliding and rolling right up on to the table. :)

Setup was a snap, all done with one signal 4.3 DVD. Avia tuned and I'm looking over Dial M for Murder. A good one heh? Color looks very very good and I haven't grayscale tuned it yet.

Alan enjoy, there's a sense of accomplishment after setting everything up right with a new CRT. Not everybody could do this very easily.

Another spoon feed, I'd tryed searching. :)

Where do we find the hours meter again? thanks

2ndAnode, thanks for your help. I probed L3, but the pj's HV wouldn't come up. My fans are also not coming up. Is there something else I can check being that both high and low voltage are dead? Does this mean that it has to be the power supply itself?

BTW, 133" with the Dwin! I was afraid to do it and went with 110". I'm happy with that size, but... no color-corrected lenses... actually, no mods to speak of (except my super-insulated HV focus connector).

Another spoon feed, I'd tryed searching. :)

Where do we find the hours meter again? thanks



While the projector is operating,
with a one second delay between
each keypress,
Press MENU, 9, 0, ENTER, 9, 8.

After reading the information
press EXIT.

Yeah I know, now that I have full rastor/no burn in. I'm tempted to use my 120" diag 4.3 High Power screen. Any thoughts on the Dalite HP material and a CRT projector in the cone? That's 3.3 gain there abouts.

Here's a picture of my new Dwin and it is like new, zero rastor burn in.
http://www.cigarbest.com/sales/dwinhd500.jpg

Thanks for the code Bruddah.

2ndAnode, thanks for your help. I probed L3, but the pj's HV wouldn't come up. My fans are also not coming up. Is there something else I can check being that both high and low voltage are dead? Does this mean that it has to be the power supply itself?

BTW, 133" with the Dwin! I was afraid to do it and went with 110". I'm happy with that size, but... no color-corrected lenses... actually, no mods to speak of (except my super-insulated HV focus connector).

How are you trying to turn on the projector?


1) Disconnect the power cord from the projector
2) Disconnect the five input cables.
3) Reconnect the power cord
4) Do NOT connect the input cables yet.
5) Try to turn on the projector with the original DWIN remote control.



If the remote fails to work, try the below steps
1) Press "TV" and "MUTE" together and release, the word "SET" should appear.
2) press 1, 7, 7 and then press "TV" to finish. "PASS" will appear.
3) Try the power button on the remote. It should turn the projector On and Off.

What is the Green status LED doing?

I've tried just as you said. Here's what happens:

The green LED blinks slowly when I reconnect the power cord. I turn on the pj using the remote. At that point, I hear a click and the green LED shows solid. Nothing else happens. After three seconds, I hear another click and the green LED goes back to the slow blinking state. That's all.

I've tried just as you said. Here's what happens:

The green LED blinks slowly when I reconnect the power cord. I turn on the pj using the remote. At that point, I hear a click and the green LED shows solid. Nothing else happens. After three seconds, I hear another click and the green LED goes back to the slow blinking state. That's all.

When the LED was solid ON did the fans run?
How about the tube necks, did they glow at all?

While the projector is operating,
with a one second delay between
each keypress,
Press MENU, 9, 0, ENTER, 9, 8.

After reading the information
press EXIT.


1320 operational hours, sweet :) :) :)

When the LED was solid ON did the fans run?
How about the tube necks, did they glow at all?
No. Fans didn't run. Tube necks did not glow.

On my disabled HD700 the tube necks always glowed, fans always came on. Maybe one of the fuses in the PS went.

On my disabled HD700 the tube necks always glowed, fans always came on. Maybe one of the fuses in the PS went.
Sounds promising. I'll check.

No. Fans didn't run. Tube necks did not glow.

During the three seconds, did you hear a faint "tick tick tick..." sound coming from the front of the projector?
This repeated ticking sound is not loud, it's best heard (if present) by placing an ear on the vent closest to the Green lens.

The noises the power supply makes as the projector is trying to start up can give vital clues as to what kind
of load it is driving.

Just gave it a listen. No ticking sounds.

Just gave it a listen. No ticking sounds.

Check the two fuses inside the power supply's cage.
Remove and install one at a time and check with an Ohm or continuity meter.

I see the fuses inside the cage.

If I get zapped, how is it going to happen? Normally, I like a surprise, but not in this case.

I see the fuses inside the cage.

If I get zapped, how is it going to happen? Normally, I like a surprise, but not in this case.


With the power cord removed, by the time you get the power supply out of the projector and onto a table
any painful charges stored in the capacitors should be gone. I have taken this power supply completely
apart several times without ever experiencing a single tingle.

Removing the fuse does not require deep disassembly. You may have to remove the cover to get to them.
It's been more than a year since I last made an intimate visit inside the power supply's cage, much less
remove the circuit board from the cage.
I don't remember if there is an access hole large enough to pass
a suitable tool through for extracting and installing the fuses.

Thanks.

I opened the cage and pulled the fuses. Checked continuity. Fuse F1 is burnt and non-conductive. F2 is OK.

Time for another trip to Radio Shack...

I wonder why the fuse went. This is a Feb 2000 model. Could this be normal? The HV has been leaking for almost a year. Maybe that contributed somehow?

Thanks.

I opened the cage and pulled the fuses. Checked continuity. Fuse F1 is burnt and non-conductive. F2 is OK.

Time for another trip to Radio Shack...

I wonder why the fuse went. This is a Feb 2000 model. Could this be normal? The HV has been leaking for almost a year. Maybe that contributed somehow?


What is the amperage rating for the blown fuse?

The rating was OK at 5A 250V.

The rating was OK at 5A 250V.

Weird, I would expect the larger fuse to blow if a fuse was going to blow in this set.
The smaller fuse is something like 0.250 Amps if I recall. It takes almost nothing to
blow that one. Replace it with a good one of the same rating and see what happens.
Yes, a properly running Radio Shack will have both 5 Amp and 0.250 Amp fuses in stock.
It's good idea to test the new fuse(s) before installing them because they're so cheap.

I just looked over my fuses last time, never thought to get my volt meter out. The 0.250MA one is so thin you can barely see the wire.

I picked up fuses today. I tested them for continuity and they were fine. I put one in the power supply. Then, I turned off the lights thinking that I might see the fuse blow. Unfortunately, that's what happened. The fuse blew as soon as I turned the pj on. Now, the pj is right back to the dead state that it was in before. No more flashes when I try to turn it on. Just that one when the new fuse blew.

Maybe I'll readjust the focus connector. Maybe I damaged the wire. I don't know if this is a potential cause, but I'll try this and some other things. I have three more fuses :)

Oh... I'll also try to fire up the pj without connecting the HV focus to see if that helps.

Is there anything else I should check? Could this be caused by the motherboard somehow?

I picked up fuses today. I tested them for continuity and they were fine. I put one in the power supply. Then, I turned off the lights thinking that I might see the fuse blow. Unfortunately, that's what happened. The fuse blew as soon as I turned the pj on. Now, the pj is right back to the dead state that it was in before. No more flashes when I try to turn it on. Just that one when the new fuse blew.

Maybe I'll readjust the focus connector. Maybe I damaged the wire. I don't know if this is a potential cause, but I'll try this and some other things. I have three more fuses :)

Oh... I'll also try to fire up the pj without connecting the HV focus to see if that helps.

Is there anything else I should check? Could this be caused by the motherboard somehow?

I have never seen a DWIN blow any of its fuses before, this is a new unusual problem.

By any chance did any of the many small wires going to the square power supply connector
get pinched between the power supply and the metal projector case when the power supply was reinstalled?

If there are no pinched or scuffed wires then it's likely a hard short in one or more major semiconductors
in the power supply and/or on the main board is to blame for blowing the fuse.

Also, if the two different fuses got mixed up one of them will definitely blow every time.
Make sure the fuse rating of the installed fuse matches the rating printed on the circuit board.

Looking at the board the fuse closest to you is the 5amp.

Hello, gents. The board is labeled below the fuses, so I'm quite sure that the fuse is in the right spot. I'm about to run another test. I have disconnected and reconnected the block connector from/to the motherboard. In addition, I inspected the wires to see if any appeared to be pinched, but they looked OK. Is it OK for me to connect only the block connector to the ps and then turn on the pj, or is that too dangerous? I'm trying to identify the problematic part... I don't know if a test like this will actually help. Thanks.

Hello, gents. The board is labeled below the fuses, so I'm quite sure that the fuse is in the right spot. I'm about to run another test. I have disconnected and reconnected the block connector from/to the motherboard. In addition, I inspected the wires to see if any appeared to be pinched, but they looked OK. Is it OK for me to connect only the block connector to the ps and then turn on the pj, or is that too dangerous? I'm trying to identify the problematic part... I don't know if a test like this will actually help. Thanks.

Operating the projector with one or both red high voltage wires disconnected at the power supply side
won't hurt anything. Make sure you stay clear of their sockets when it's running.:eek:

The ends of the red wires should be routed away from anything as a precaution even though little or no voltage
is expected to be present on the unterminated ends.

Ugh I know what you're going through having a good piece of equipment just not responding to getting back in working order.

The $365 fee from Dwin isn't too bad, it's the $100 plus round trip shipping that kills the repair deal. You could do like I did and scope Ebay for a possible deal on another Dwin. I did get lucky for $320 for a local sale on Ebay with just 1300 hours on it. Hope you could get lucky also. I love my new HD500 and it does look better than the 12,000 houred down HD700 I have. It's just a smoother in image, brighter and clearer also.
Best of luck.

Too bad. Fried another fuse.

I'm considering risking the purchase of a power supply before sending this whole thing back to Dwin. No idea how much that would cost. (Curt, you there?) I feel like maybe I did something to kill it. Is there any chance that allowing the darn thing to arc might let the pj come up? I know I shouldn't do that. Just frustrated... I was soooo close...

Curt will send you one for $275. Not bad, he can't give it away which I understand. I mentioned $100 bucks trying, but understand business and survival. ;)

Hey maybe Curt will accommodate and send it on the basis if it doesn't clear the problem that he'll take it back. If it works he's got a sale.

Curt will send you one for $275. Not bad, he can't give it away which I understand. I mentioned $100 bucks trying, but understand business and survival. ;)

Hey maybe Curt will accommodate and send it on the basis if it doesn't clear the problem that he'll take it back. If it works he's got a sale.
Thanks, Tom. I would be very happy if Curt would consider some type of arrangement where I give the good ps a try to see if it fixes the problem and pay a lesser "sorry for the trouble" fee if it doesn't work out and I return it.

Man, I miss the Dwin already.