I am close to pulling the trigger on a dedicated theater room as part of a basement finishing project I am getting started on and I need some help on my PJ.

After reading reviews here and on various blog posts, I think I want to get the Sony Pearl (although I may wait to see what the actual street prices are on the black pearl before buying).

Here's the basic setup of my room as I'm planning it:

http://chriskelley.org/wp-content/uploads/2007/side.gif

As you can see I am planning on putting the PJ 5'8" off the ground (on a shelf) and 20' 5" projecting onto a 119" Da-Lite High Power Cinema Contour with Pro-Trim.

Four questions:

1 - I am going with the high gain screen as that's the only way I could get all the indicators to go green on the projector central calculator for my setup. What do I loose by going with high gain screens? Am I just asking to much of the pearl to do a 119" image 20' from the screen? Should I look at a different projector or scale down my screen size (that'll be tough to swallow!)?

2 - what wire should I install to the pearl if I want to control it from the back room gear closet? Serial? Ethernet? I'm planning on running a HDMI, Component and Composite (just in case) from my gear room to the PJ and putting it on a dedicated 20 AMP circuit. Anything I'm forgetting WRT to wiring?

3 - Am I OK mounting the pearl only 2" below the top of the screen? Will the lens shift enough so that I don't have to use the keystone correction?

4 - Do my sightlines look OK in the drawing? Should I be worried about any obstructions (heads, chairs, etc.)?

Thanks in advance for all the advice.

The Pearl will barely work this size at optimal (shortest zoom) distance. I am fine with mine on this size but the longer zoom will decrease light output. The high power screen will only work at high power (2.8-3.0 gain) if you have the projector lower. It needs to be at the same level as your eyes for maximal gain. The gain in your picture would only give you 1.5 gain. The Silverstar will give 3.0 gain if you can see the projector in a pretend mirror mounted in the middle of your screen from your eyes. Remember that your eyes will be at 3'6'' and the top of your head at 4'.
RS232 serial.
Your lens shift is not an issue in this room with this projector as long as you are centered laterally.
See above.

Suggestions: Move the projector into the room to shorten the zoom. This is needed to cool the projector as you appear to have it against the wall. This will also increase your lumens. The problem with the High Power screen would be less gain for lateral seats. The riser near the screen may limit your speaker choices due to height considerations. The riser in the back should go all the way to the back of the first row seats.

The darker the walls and furniture the better the picture you will see. Make sure to run two HDMI 1080P wires in case of damage.

Good luck, you will love your theater.

stonedr - thanks for the info. If I move the PJ in front of the beam then the lens will be 9' 8" from the screen. Is that far enough away to still get a 120' picture? If it is and I move it there can I go with a 1.3 gain screen?

Also it will be right above the front row. I know it's one of the quietest PJ's out there, so assume that will be OK?

On the rear riser, the couches recline so, I think I need to leave a little room behind, or the front row won't go back?

Thanks again

One more thing: what do I need to buy to connect to the other end of the RS 232 cable to translate the IR or RF commands to serial?

aakelley,
The Pearl or its replacement will give the most lumens at their shortest throw. The zoom will not fill your screen at 9' 8". Mine is 13 feet for the same size and gain screen. Measure from the front of the lens. It could be slightly closer(see the manual on sony's web site). In fact it can be even closer than the manual reports but there is evidently some decrease in optical quality due to aberations in lenses at their edges. This 120 inch 16x9 screen is above the limit that most would recommend. I am happy with mine though it is in 100% light control room and I will be replacing the bulb very early to keep up the lumens.
I would place the projector behind the beam with a ceiling mount.

I have confused you about the rs232 serial connection. This is only for an extensive hard wired control system (not a do it yourself project). You can control the projector with IR pointed at the screen. If you had the projector in a hush box you would do best to have just two wires(very small) for an IR repeater system. If you want to get the heat of your components out of your room or do not have line of sight, use the Xantech repeater system.
Measure your chairs because you want the riser as close to the front row as possible.

I am projecting onto a 119" screen with my Pearl. The room really isn't light controlled either. I have suboptimal placement (mounted very high) for my High Power screen but still get a brighter image (in low lamp) than I did in my previous light controlled dedicated theater with 110" 1.3 gain Carada. As a side note, with the projector placed near eye level, it would easily light up a 130" or more HP screen in low lamp mode.

aakelly,

That would be a great setup for a High Power screen.

check out the JVC RS-1 also call AVS for pricing. It may be close to the pearl in pricing but is definately slightly better image

Stonedr - OK, so it looks like I will have to mount behind the beam, which will actually be better as it will be over the gap between the first and second rows.

I will have a 100% light controlled room (basement with no windows and 2 doors will be sealed (for light and sound). I also plan to paint the ceiling flat black and the walls a dark gray. Sounds like all of this will help my situation.

On the RS232, it sounds like I should run the wire but not worry about hooking it up until I have a better idea of what I want for an automation system.

RobZ - thanks for the tips. I don't think putting at eye level is an option. However since I think I am going to move the PJ forward int he room and mount 11-13' from the screen I think I can get away with a lower gain screen than the 2.8. However all I seem to find is either 1.3 or 2.8. Do you know of anything in between?

Tryg - I will call the AVS guys on the RS-1. I think I can get the pearl for about 1500 less than I can find the RS-1 anywhere.

What mount did you buy for your pearl? Is it drop adjustable after installation?

What mount did you buy for your pearl? Is it drop adjustable after installation?


The Chief RPA 059 is pretty nice. You can interchange the extension poles pretty easily with standard pipe from HD. I previously used a universal mount but realized it shook a bit with deep bass. The Chief is much more solidly built. You can run your cables into the pole for a sleek look. I painted the pieces white to blend with the ceiling. Even though there is a projector there (den), most don't notice it until I point it out.

http://img69.imageshack.us/img69/3569/chiefmountedvw50he9.jpg

aakelley:

Tryg and RobZ are pointing out that the DaLite High Power screen would work well for you. It was not available when I bought my screen. You would get between 1.5 and 2.8 gain depending on how low you set the projector. The 2.8 gain is maximum at optimal position. The side seats would get lower than the center seats. RobZ and I both use the Chief mount but I would recommend staying with the original flat black. As a guide my pipe is 12" and this puts the top of the projector at 14" from the ceiling and the bottom of the projector at 21" from the ceiling.

Talk with AVS though Tryg will be very busy with CEDIA this week, he will help you a lot. I also went with the Pearl because of noise with the RS-1. Please do not post actual prices other than MSRP on the site. Evidently the comparison saying one product will cost me one thousand less than another product is OK.

stonedr - thanks for the etiquette tip...edited post above to remove the offense.

I'll take a look at the chief. I like the idea of being able to run the cables down the middle.

I'll take a look at the chief. I like the idea of being able to run the cables down the middle.


Right now I have a thick 22 Awg Monoprice HDMI, a smaller HDMI, and the power cord running through it with room to spare for component cables if I decide to down the line.