I have an IBeam which I want to put a door under. The ibeam is about 81 1/2 inches off the ground. Just high enough to put a 80" door in there.

Problem is, if I frame it like I did all my other doors Im going to have to cut the door off the bottom..


My question is, can I just use the Ibeam as the door header and just put two studs on each side?

here are some pics

duct work is going to be replaced s/t it is higher than the ibeam bottom.
<BR>

<img src="http://www.markredding.com/pictures/help/beam.jpg"><br>

Red lines could be my framing????<br>

<img src="http://www.markredding.com/pictures/help/beam2.jpg"><br>

here are some pics

duct work is going to be replaced s/t it is higher than the ibeam bottom.
<BR>
http://www.markredding.com/pictures/help/beam.jpg


Red lines could be my framing???? Door in the Gap between the 4 lines?<br>
http://www.markredding.com/pictures/help/beam2.JPG

My question is, can I just use the Ibeam as the door header and just put two studs on each side?


I'm sure there is a way to make it work but you'll have to figure out something creative for the case molding.

Are you going to be finishing off both sides of the wall? and will it hide the beam on at least one side? I would put the door flush with the side where the beam will be hid and on the other bump the wall out just around the door so that if you extend the jamb you can put up case molding all around. It will just look more natural.

I had a similar issue - ended up building the wall just to one side (in your pic, closest to the camera) of the beam. In your case, you'd lose a couple of inches, but no need for any fancy carpentry.

My question is, can I just use the Ibeam as the door header and just put two studs on each side?That's exactly what I did, except for me it was one of those laminated wood beams, not a metal I-beam. So it worked out perfect for me.

That's exactly what I did, except for me it was one of those laminated wood beams, not a metal I-beam. So it worked out perfect for me.

I plan on gluing on the studs directly to the side of the i-beam that I need to work around. If necessary, I'll put a long bolt through the studs and i-beam in a couple of spots to to secure this.

I plan on gluing on the studs directly to the side of the i-beam that I need to work around. If necessary, I'll put a long bolt through the studs and i-beam in a couple of spots to to secure this.

Yeah, that's what I would do. Just glue a 2x4 "header" to the I-beam with PL Premium so you have something to nail the casing to. Then I would glue a piece of plywood to the underside so you have something to nail the jamb / doorstop into

ok so the ductwork is done and im still debating how im going to do this.

the theater is on the good side of the ibeam (no ductwork) and the rec room is on the other, ibeam and soffit to be built around new higher ductwork.

take a look.

the ibeam is exactly 4" wide. i was thinking about using a 2"x8" to build out the wall such that the door is actually just outside of the ibeam from the theater.



http://lh6.google.com/mredding/R7ZKXqAxcCI/AAAAAAAACi4/613RJmonyLk/s800/_MG_6037.JPG

so from this view, the recroom is to the left, theater is on the right

Is it possible to frame that wall with 2x6's? If so you could then get a door made for 2x6 framing that had a larger adjustable jam. You could then add a one inch backer for each side of the beam. Box stores probably want have these doors in stock. Go to a lumber yard.

Is it possible to frame that wall with 2x6's? If so you could then get a door made for 2x6 framing that had a larger adjustable jam. You could then add a one inch backer for each side of the beam. Box stores probably want have these doors in stock. Go to a lumber yard.

That would work, but cost's a little more than your basic 4 9/16" door jamb.
I have similiar situtation, so I just bought the std pre-hung door jamb size, set it flush on the hinge side, and easily added ripped filler board around the 3 sides of the jamb, nail gun works well for that. Very easy to do. No one will ever notice.

My builder did this for a few doors on my main home build, I just copied his approach.

I built a doorway under a house's center beam (solid wood, not manufactured or steel) and the clearance was so low I did not use a header and did not run a 2x4 all the way across. I just built the stud wall framing with king and jack studs on each side and in my case the casing fit almost perfectly. I did have to trim about two inches off of the bottom of the door to make it fit.

For an I-beam, wood members can be installed inside above the bottom web if desired for nailing or other purposes thus not detracting from headroom under the beam. I am not sure of the structural restrictions on drilling through the center web of an I-beam to bolt together added wood framing members on either side.

Video hints: http://members.aol.com/ajaynejr/theater.htm

http://lh6.google.com/mredding/R7z3VKAxcbI/AAAAAAAACno/Fd6k4Ag5ofk/s800/_MG_6112.JPG


Thinking of just doing two 2x4s wide on the wall such that the door frame won't actually be under the beam.

all framing is done but this wall....im still stuck.

Not sure if you can see in this picture but in my build I had a 2x4 glued under the I beam with a screw in a few places......not going anywhere.

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k242/BritInVA/HT/Entrance-08May06.jpg

Recollect door is about 1" shorter than a standard door.

Cheers,
Mark

Not sure if you can see in this picture but in my build I had a 2x4 glued under the I beam with a screw in a few places......not going anywhere.

That's exactly what I did, minus the screws. I was lucky enough to not have to shorten the door.

-Ryan

Pretty much what I did. But I did have to shorten the door and frame a few inches to fit. One section of the wall was built, then the door went in, and then I continued with the rest of the wall was constructed. Doing it this way allowed me three beads of acoustical caulk and an extremely tight fit. The ductwork was also reconfigured from 8x8" to 5x12", and tucked very close to the floor joists to gain a higher soffit height.