But back to subject here.. I've been using Venks settings with Comcast HD Cable and was very satisfied with it.. I recently bought the Toshiba A2(can't go wrong with $99.. HD DVD FTW) and was watching Matrix on HD DVD thought it was kinda dark.. Anybody got a good setting on this combination?

Did anyone ever figure out why VGA connection using the native resolution (1280x720) causes the image to be shifted to the left by so many inches that it is uncorrectable using the PJ menu?

This issue is killing me and I haven't had time to call Acer Tech support yet....

Did anyone ever figure out why VGA connection using the native resolution (1280x720) causes the image to be shifted to the left by so many inches that it is uncorrectable using the PJ menu?

This issue is killing me and I haven't had time to call Acer Tech support yet....

This may not be the same situation as you but I connect my puter to the vga and it works fine. My desktop is 1920x1200 but I think it shows as a lower res on the connector. Sorry it's a bit vague because it is just from memory but my picture is not shifted at all. Would I have to change my desktop to 1280x720 to test?

This may not be the same situation as you but I connect my puter to the vga and it works fine. My desktop is 1920x1200 but I think it shows as a lower res on the connector. Sorry it's a bit vague because it is just from memory but my picture is not shifted at all. Would I have to change my desktop to 1280x720 to test?
As stated numerous time throughout this thread and others.... the problem occurs when using 1280x720, pixel-mapped resolution via VGA.

I was always able to correct it but it was a very annoying process.

I use Art's Theater calibrated settings plus my own brightness/contrast via DVE calibration for good results.

Allow me to say that I think it is very unfair and unethical for you guys to come into this thread and try to discredit Art or his review of the PH530. With all due respect, we all should consider Art's review to be a big plus on the side of this unit. His review will give this unit tremendous exposure and credibility with the "Home Theater Crowd."

It is unfair when someone like Art takes the time to put the effort into reviewing a low end unit like the Acer and you guys try to discredit his efforts. The truth is, Art held my projector for over 3 weeks and he did the best he could with the time he had. It is not easy doing an end user review especially dealing with the pressure of that actual end user wanting his projector back.

It's ok to disagree with Art's review, however. The truth is, we, the budget crowd are always looking for means to justify our purchases. But in all fairness fellas... be nice.

I meant no disrespect to Art. It's rather comical actually because it's almost as if he despised the unit! I understand though because this unit is very hard to calibrate. I can't eyeball it so I'll have to pick up AVIA or something better. As I suspected, the lens is no good at full zoom. It is best at the shortest setting to quarter zoom.

Great price, where did you find it at?

i got lucky. :D thenerds.net now has it for $612.

As I suspected, the lens is no good at full zoom. It is best at the shortest setting to quarter zoom.

what makes you say that its best at quarter zoom and no good at full?

Projecting onto a light controlled Optomo Grey Wolf II 92" 1.8 gain glass beaded grey screen.....

Eco Mode: ON
Brightness: 75 (70-80, material dependent)
Contrast: 45 (43-46, material dependent)
Color Temp: 0
White Segment: 10 (9 or 10 was fine)
Degamma: 7
Red: 100
Green: 100
Blue: 100
Saturation: 55 (50-55 was fine, as it approached 60....started to look fake)
Tint: 50 (47-53 was fine)
Sharpness: 31 (26-31 was fine)

I'll probably try Art's color settings monday to see what effect it has. Remember my settings will be different on the grey screen, but with my settings, I am getting the same effect of pop, brighter whites, blacks are still black.....at least they were in the movies I tested so far, Underworld 1, Pitchblack, and Alien.

I adjust the saturation according to what I'm watching, if the film is natural looking film (no CGI) then I leave Saturation at 50, but if its something like Monsters Inc, The Incredibles, Tron, etc I might turn the saturation up a notch (53-55) and let those colors explode onscreen.

And I like to crank up the sharpness....I don't mind if I catch a fake looking edge line here or there. I hate soft pictures.....just me.

I don't seem to have tint/sat/sharpness settings? is there a firmware update available?

what makes you say that its best at quarter zoom and no good at full?

it's fine but not optimal as the fstop goes from 2.5 to 2.8 which lets through less light and is also not as sharp.

here's a shot after finding the sweet spot. 90" 2:35 image from 15ft away taken at 16ft, oceans 13. my colors are way off due to the blue wall but its pretty sharp

http://i12.tinypic.com/6yf1dnq.jpg

As stated numerous time throughout this thread and others.... the problem occurs when using 1280x720, pixel-mapped resolution via VGA.

I was always able to correct it but it was a very annoying process.
Once again, i still feel this was never a wide spread problem, and was really only limited to you and very few others. A while back in the other ph530 thread i asked who experienced this problem, only you and one other guy said so (and that guy said it was correctable using the horizontal shift menu options).
While i am not saying you are lying about it (that wouldn't make any sense), i feel you're playing this up as a major problem, when in fact there have been very few cases it. Meaning i feel you're scaring off potential buyers for no reason.

Lou, that was a VERY idiotic post and not to mention... useless. We have guys coming into this thread with post counts in the low teens talking about how bias Art's review was. WTH?
While i do agree with you, Art did take time out of his way to give us a professional review. And it is also true that we may disagree with him if we want, but we shouldn't insult him or call him biased.
However, i must say that judging people by post counts is rather idiotic too. What if Albert Einstein registered in these forums today, he has a post count of 14, does this mean that you are then able to argue he is wrong with his ideas of physics because he has a low post count?

Jarrod, on the VGA problem whether it be 10 guys or 1000.... as long as it is an issue that exists in a specific application with no known fix, anyone who purchases this unit is taking a gamble and should be educated beforehand. Typically I would not have made a fuss about it, because I was always able to circumvent it, however when I saw the review on Newegg that mentioned the exact same bug and then it came up on these forums as well, it made perfect sense to shed some light on this issue. I'll conclude this part of my message this way; I'm not the kind of guy who has to experience the problem in order to acknowledge it. Even if my unit worked perfectly, once the problem had been noticed, I would not dismiss it just because mines doesnt exhibit it.

The reason I refer to post count is not about education. It's not about who's got more smarts than the next person. It's a matter of forum courtesy & etiquette. I dont think you'd see that behavior in the above $2,999 or $20,000+ forum. Not to say they dont have disputes or have idiots among them, however it is generally unacceptable to throw an unsubstantiated remark and be taken seriously. Often times, it's the new guy who may not be familiar with the climate here and be non hesitant about making that type of statement. I'm pretty sure quite a few of the more regular posters may have possibly felt some bias in Art's review.... however, they would not slander him by throwing it out like that so frivolously.

I'm gonna stand on both of my original points because I feel they are justified. And I also feel that I have been just as strong or an even stronger proponent of the Acer PH530... however, since I dont entertain or condone fanboyism, the truth is truth. I did not agree with every point that Art made in his review... my experience was different on several degrees, however I know that Art put several reviews on hold to do this review as a favor to the forum. I would not negligently throw it back in his face with an accusation of bias just because I begged to differ with a few of his points. Im done with this subject. Hell, I dont even own the projector anymore.

Alright, point well taken on the forum post count.
But let me ask you this, I buy a DVD player, it does not work, i read up on the internet that 2 other people report the same thing. Now, while this is a problem, should we alert all buyers of this dvd player saying "stay away!", because there have been a few cases of it being faulty? I sure do feel it is right to warn them, but you have often made it feel like it is a problem common with the majority of ph530's. Hence why hatari is fearful to buy one until the "problem gets fixed", when there is nothing truly to fix, it was just a few cases of faulty production, one reason why all companies give a warranty.
No matter though, i see you're taking this all too personally, so i won't discuss it further.

My player screws up on VGA as well. Left image is chopped off. Although a resync will correct it after I press it like 3 times.

My player screws up on VGA as well. Left image is chopped off. Although a resync will correct it after I press it like 3 times.
is this through 720p? If so what are your aspect options? Despite what some say, you don't have top have it at 1:1 if you're sending it a proper signal, that is mainly meant for times when you don't want any upscaling. Try not keeping it on 1:1 and selecting 16:9, which is what 1280x720 is. This may correct any cutoff issues.

it's fine but not optimal as the fstop goes from 2.5 to 2.8 which lets through less light and is also not as sharp.

here's a shot after finding the sweet spot. 90" 2:35 image from 15ft away taken at 16ft, oceans 13. my colors are way off due to the blue wall but its pretty sharp

Is there some formula for the optimal setting or are you just experimenting?

I don't seem to have tint/sat/sharpness settings? is there a firmware update available?

I noticed looking at Art's review that I don't have Saturation and Tint in my menu after Color B. Some of the other menus are a bit different too. That's weird since I am not aware of a firmware upgrade.

Edit :> After reading more I believe it may be input specific? I am only using vga dsub at this point. I need to get a HDMI source to test more.

Is there some formula for the optimal setting or are you just experimenting?

look for distortions at the edge of the screen and overall sharpness.

I noticed looking at Art's review that I don't have Saturation and Tint in my menu after Color B. Some of the other menus are a bit different too. That's weird since I am not aware of a firmware upgrade.

i found them while connected through component. with vga i had to fix things through my video card.

i found this hard to calibrate. it has a tendency to crush blacks and whites. the best factory setting seemed to be sRGB.

my settings are now
brightness - 80
contrast 55
color temp 1
white segment 3
degamma 4
rgb - 98/98/98
sat 20
tint 40
sharpness 0
eco on
tracking 15

these work good for me but i dont have a screen yet.

http://i9.tinypic.com/6o1sb41.jpg

I don't seem to have tint/sat/sharpness settings? is there a firmware update available?

I haven't tried messing with other input sources because I got all sources (satellite, antenna, 2 dvd players, VCR, PS2) connected through an Onkyo 605 and out to projector through an HDMI cable. I guess it makes those other menu options available with that input connector.

I could care less about someone else's opinion, mine is the only one that counts. I'm happy with the Ace.

What is the preferred method of hooking this thing up to a HTPC ?

via HDMI or component?

a shot i took today from 5th element remaster bluray 720p. projected a matte white 84" draper tripod screen

http://i1.tinypic.com/8fx4ghl.jpg

Dreamwarrior22,

You don't have tint/saturation because you're probably plugged in via vga. You'll get it if you connect via HDMI. That issue bugged me too when connected via a breakout cable (component to vga). I switched to hdmi and the settings are now available. I believe the picture is brighter via hdmi as well but that's just my eyes talk'n.

I can't change the tint/saturation settings, I think its because I'm using RGB via hdmi from htpc

I can't change the tint/saturation settings, I think its because I'm using RGB via hdmi from htpc

Most probably; I can't either using DVI to HDMI from HTPC (RGB) but I can using HD-A2 through HDMI (YPbPr)

I also noticed that indeed if I use the focus at the maximum setting the image becomes much less sharp, but 3/4 setting works well

Once again, i still feel this was never a wide spread problem, and was really only limited to you and very few others. A while back in the other ph530 thread i asked who experienced this problem, only you and one other guy said so (and that guy said it was correctable using the horizontal shift menu options).
While i am not saying you are lying about it (that wouldn't make any sense), i feel you're playing this up as a major problem, when in fact there have been very few cases it. Meaning i feel you're scaring off potential buyers for no reason.

1) I know of 6+ people who have experienced this problem just from this forum. Some via PMs and emails.

2) It is limited to 1280x720 resolution on the computer/xbox360 being used via VGA inputs to the projector. I believe it to be widespread as most people don't bother to use that exact setup...they try other resolutions and it works or they try component and it works.

3) It is not simply correctable by using horizontal shift. It is off by so much that the shift is not capable of bring the image back over far enough to compensate.

4) scaring off potential buyers??? This is a real problem, and to me and the others I've talked to, very major! I think (as evidenced by your reply here and in other places) you are getting too emotional about this projector and just need to cool down! How about instead of downplaying it, you assist us in getting it resolved! Thanks!

did I miss another review? The one I read from Art about 3 weeks ago seemed fine to me. I thought he did a decent job of comparing it to it's nearest competitors.

I didn't read anything that would stop me from buying it, in his opinion he would have chose something else with all things considered, but that didn't 'mean he thought it was heavily flawed.

Infact I thought he went out of his way to promote it as a decent choice for an extremely budget orientated projector, with very few, minor imperfections compared to the competition.

1) I know of 6+ people who have experienced this problem just from this forum. Some via PMs and emails.

2) It is limited to 1280x720 resolution on the computer/xbox360 being used via VGA inputs to the projector. I believe it to be widespread as most people don't bother to use that exact setup...they try other resolutions and it works or they try component and it works.

3) It is not simply correctable by using horizontal shift. It is off by so much that the shift is not capable of bring the image back over far enough to compensate.

4) scaring off potential buyers??? This is a real problem, and to me and the others I've talked to, very major! I think (as evidenced by your reply here and in other places) you are getting too emotional about this projector and just need to cool down! How about instead of downplaying it, you assist us in getting it resolved! Thanks!
DUDE! You took the words right out of my mouth!

1) I know of 6+ people who have experienced this problem just from this forum. Some via PMs and emails.

2) It is limited to 1280x720 resolution on the computer/xbox360 being used via VGA inputs to the projector. I believe it to be widespread as most people don't bother to use that exact setup...they try other resolutions and it works or they try component and it works.

3) It is not simply correctable by using horizontal shift. It is off by so much that the shift is not capable of bring the image back over far enough to compensate.

4) scaring off potential buyers??? This is a real problem, and to me and the others I've talked to, very major! I think (as evidenced by your reply here and in other places) you are getting too emotional about this projector and just need to cool down! How about instead of downplaying it, you assist us in getting it resolved! Thanks!
Consider the fact that the ph530 has been selling like hot cakes, now consider how many reports of the problem that we have heard. Try to do the math on how many units have been experiencing this problem, maybe 1% to 2% at the most.
And the horizontal shift comment was only made because another guy (running 1280x720 over vga) noticed the shift problem, but his was correctable through the options, it was just a suggestion.
"scaring off potential buyers??? This is a real problem, and to me and the others I've talked to, very major! I think (as evidenced by your reply here and in other places) you are getting too emotional"
Read my reply, then read the above quote, who seems more emotional here?
Frankly, i could care less if anyone buys this projector, if it is in their price range and they want 720, i mention this one because that is the only choice. Otherwise i really feel and would recommend that the other projectors just a couple hundred more would be a better buy. My replys have had nothing to do with fanboyism over the Acer, because imo the acer is the lowest of entry level hd projectors, and far, far from the best. My point has been that any device experiences a common problem, which people report, and due to the nature of the internet gets blown out of proportion. You will see, by looking into the past, that within the few months of a products release you'll have maybe 10-20 or perhaps even 30 people run across the same common problem, especially in a place like avs where you get a ton of traffic, and also who shows up first usually under google searches for people looking for projector help. But once again, being blown out of proportion, consider this 30 people, a concentration of the same problem due to the factors mentioned above, and then consider the amount that has been sold and worked. What you will see is a very small percentage of people overall who are experiencing the problem (even if it only shows under certain conditions). Once again, this is why all manufacturers give warranties. This small percentage of problem is to be and is expected, as such warranties are given. If you experience a problem with your electronic device that you bought, you use the warranty for an exchange for a working one.

hi i am also an owner of the ph530 for a few months now. It's my first projector and so far i'm very pleased with it.

only one thing that bothers me. i have my pc connected via vga (oehlbach) and i also have the 1280*720p issue. i just can't get the whole picture on the screen. setting frequency to -10 helps a little. this issue appears only on 60hz. 70 and 75 is just fine although there is more tearing so i'd like to stick with 60hz.
another thing that bothers me with 60 hz. don't know how to describe it, there seems to be some flickering i just can't get rid off. best visible when using a browser, opening a page with lots of writing and then using the tracking option on the projector. looks like some letters are bigger than others. Again this only happens on vga and 60hz. if someone plz could confirm this, otherwise i may have a defective unit. but again 70 Hz and 75 Hz are working perfectly
other than that it really is a great deal for the money

hi i am also an owner of the ph530 for a few months now. It's my first projector and so far i'm very pleased with it.

only one thing that bothers me. i have my pc connected via vga (oehlbach) and i also have the 1280*720p issue. i just can't get the whole picture on the screen. setting frequency to -10 helps a little. this issue appears only on 60hz. 70 and 75 is just fine although there is more tearing so i'd like to stick with 60hz.
another thing that bothers me with 60 hz. don't know how to describe it, there seems to be some flickering i just can't get rid off. best visible when using a browser, opening a page with lots of writing and then using the tracking option on the projector. looks like some letters are bigger than others. Again this only happens on vga and 60hz. if someone plz could confirm this, otherwise i may have a defective unit. but again 70 Hz and 75 Hz are working perfectly
other than that it really is a great deal for the money
60 hz at that large of a screen can cause flicker to be visible, especially to those who are sensitive to the 60 hz flicker in the first place. Try using 70 or 75 hz, works well. Though i am unsure what tearing you're speaking of exactly. If its ingame, pc game texture tearing then just use 75 hz and enable v-sync, which will cause the framebuffer to wait for the vertical refresh rate (in this case 75 hz).

no it's not v-sync. it's also only visible being close to the screen. it doesn't bother me in games or any moving picture.
It looks like this, asuming this is my screen
(|= vertical lines of moving pixels; .= still pixels):

|.....||.....||.....||.....|
|.....||.....||.....||.....|
|.....||.....||.....||.....|
|.....||.....||.....||.....|

so there are verticals lines where it looks like the pixels are moving and next to it the pixels are perfectly still and so on
So i guess now everybody is confused ^^

no it's not v-sync. it's also only visible being close to the screen. it doesn't bother me in games or any moving picture.
It looks like this, asuming this is my screen
(|= vertical lines of moving pixels; .= still pixels):

|.....||.....||.....||.....|
|.....||.....||.....||.....|
|.....||.....||.....||.....|
|.....||.....||.....||.....|

so there are verticals lines where it looks like the pixels are moving and next to it the pixels are perfectly still and so on
So i guess now everybody is confused ^^
Oh i see what you're talking about. This is very easily fixed, at least for me, setting the tracking to the default setting and changing the frequency to 0 will clear those lines up and give a very sharp image. The lines are due to analog interference.
Set your projector to 75 hz and use this test screen to adjust those two settings. The image should have no vertical lines going through it and all steps should look sharp and coarse. http://www.marky.com/files/hometheater/testpatterns/tracking-and-phase.gifhttp://www.marky.com/files/hometheater/testpatterns/tracking-and-phase.gifhttp://www.marky.com/files/hometheater/testpatterns/tracking-and-phase.gif

thanks. this picture is perfect for testing it :) i managed to get it perfectly clear at 75 hz.
i also tested it with 60 hz, but there i can't get it clear no mather what settings i use :(

On the projector, where should the zoom slide be so that there is no zoom? I want the best pq and I know zoom can ruin that.

This is my 1st projector and I just got it hooked up. I'm very impressed for just $600 and will be installing a bigger screen this weekend.

I too am wondering about the zoom. I'm guessing having it as much open (bigger picture) as possible would allow more light to passs and be better. Can anybody confirm this for me and coolman?

Based on the projector calculator, the more zoom you give it means you'll have a smaller, but brighter picture. I would imagine for good PQ you want more zoom if you have alot of ambient light.

I find the picture to be sharper when zoom is at the minimal setting, maybe it results a bit dimmer picture indeed (also due to longer throw distance with no zoom).
on my 84" matte white 1.0 gain screen I can afford to sacrifice the possible gain in brightness when using zoom, in favor of the sharpness gained when zoom isn't in use.

I assume the zoom degrades image sharpness mostly due to cheap optics in the ace, & I guess that whether to use zoom or not is a matter of screen size / gain / ambient light & taste.

the image from the 5th element I posed on this page was shot when zoom was used at 3/4 setting, before I came to the sharpness realization.

well that's something i wasn't aware of :rolleyes: i'm using zoom at the maximum setting at the moment due to the higher light output. if you really get a sharper picture with no zoom i will reset my mounting.

I did some research on the "white segment" and the color wheel stuff. It seems that you should avoid using "white segment" if possible. It is meant for people only with some ambient light. This projector has 7x color RGBRGBW wheel. Keystones should be avoided too. I tried to put white segment in "0". it is very dim picture so leaving as is in "2".

I did some research on the "white segment" and the color wheel stuff. It seems that you should avoid using "white segment" if possible. It is meant for people only with some ambient light. This projector has 7x color RGBRGBW wheel. Keystones should be avoided too. I tried to put white segment in "0". it is very dim picture so leaving as is in "2".
White segment is ok, however it should be known that it will hurt your contrast ratio a bit. But for me, the extra brightness is worth it and the contrast hit isn't too bad.
Though, keystoning should definitely be avoided. It will mess with the frequency/tracking and cause vertical lines of jitter. Some don't seem to mind, but it is annoying to me.

So I hooked up my acer ph530 to my xbox 360 last night with a VGA cable. I was getting this weird shadow on all of my images. For lines, for example, the line would be there and look good, but a few pixels to the left had a slightly visible replica of the line. Kinda looked likethe line had a shadow that it shouldn't have.

i had it set to 1280x720, and 1280x768, no difference.

Any help would be appreciated.

Have you tried setting the projector to "RGB" in.

I have been using component and it looks great to me, mostly Halo3 with the Xbox 360; why are you using VGA?

So I hooked up my acer ph530 to my xbox 360 last night with a VGA cable. I was getting this weird shadow on all of my images. For lines, for example, the line would be there and look good, but a few pixels to the left had a slightly visible replica of the line. Kinda looked likethe line had a shadow that it shouldn't have.

i had it set to 1280x720, and 1280x768, no difference.

Any help would be appreciated.


I have this same setup for mine and dont have this problem.. What cables are you using? Might be your cables.. Have you tried the zoom function on the projector as well?

I have been using this unit for about 2 months and these are my settings I came up with. I know every setup is different. I want to see some comments from people who has similar setup.

signal: RGB from OPPO 971 DVD player DVI->HDMI (Video 2 and default settings on Oppo) 720p@60Hz
ECO mode OFF
Sharpness 26
no keystones
Max optical Zoom to get 98" image

Brightness 35
Contrast 74
Color Temp 1
White segment 2 (2-6) <<< the more it is the picture pops out but Yellow becomes dirty
Degamma 4
R 100
G 90
B 102
Saturation (yellowed out no control)
Tint (yellowed out no control)

Please post your comments. All being said it is very good for the picture quality and the price.

Ok, here's what I got for HDMI from HD-A3 in a dark room ofr a 92" white screen. I was shocked :eek:that the Contrast was so high since it's the opposite on my 34" CRT. I haven't messed around with the Component Settings yet though.

Eco Mode: ON
Brightness: 23
Contrast: 85
Color Temp: 1
White Segment: 4
Degamma: 6
Red: 88
Green: 82
Blue: 87
Saturation: 64
Tint: 50
Sharpness:15 (didn’t seem to do much though)

Is anyone else using this with a Da-Lite high power screen? I'd like to know what your settings are.

So are most people using their own settings or using Venk's (below)?

Eco Mode: ON
Brightness: 47
Contrast: 74
Color Temp: 1
White Segment: 5
Degamma: 7
Red: 88
Green: 82
Blue: 87
Saturation: 61
Tint: 48

Can anyone tell me how magenta looks on their Acer? If using DVE or any other calibration disc, when blue and red look best through the filters green is off and magenta looks like violet.

If tint is taken down to get the magenta looking more red/purple like then blue and red are thrown off with the filters.

Should my main goal be to get the magenta looking right sacrificing what the filters are telling me, their accuracy may be off anyways.

so I am temporarily moving to a place with limited tv choices

sat will not work because of the short duration of the relocation

there is a small local company with 25 channels over coax

how do I get that into my Acer PH530

eye tv into the USB?? :confused:

thanks in advance

so I am here with my Acer PH530 and I bought a Digital TV Converter (RCA DTA800B1) and plugged it in to the wall where rumor has it there is 25 channels of cable tv and nothing

so do I need an eyetv for this, running through my MacBook then into the projector

am I missing something simple here or do I need to go and buy a tv and give up on this?? :confused:

thanks in advance

Johnny

Johnycanal, if I understand your question properly, the easiest way to get 25 "basic cable" analog channels into your Acer would be to use the composite video out from a VCR, using the VCR as a tuner.

Most cable companies don't leave unpaid-for connections hooked up.

yeah it is paid for, that is not the problem

traveled away from home on a temporary job assignment and space was at a premium

so now to find a free or very cheap vcr

thanks

$6 vcr did the trick

thanks for the help :)

hey everyone

I just got my ph530. I was wondering why the picture displays to far upwards? I always have to put something under the back of the projector to aim it down so it hits the wall correctly. seems like it was designed to sit low to the ground and then display upwards to the wall. Is there a way to change this?

Thanks

no mrkiki911, there's no way to change this. It's called the throw angle / offset and differs from one projector to another.

mrkiki, there is a way to mount the projector high (and upside-down), and then project down onto the screen. You have to invert the picture in the menu options.

Either way, though, the angle of the projected light is the same.

I need help diagnosing a problem.

I just got back from out of town and the projector wasn't used for about a week(prolly doesn't matter) The Project would flicker through all the colors and then it finally got stuck on green. A few moments later the bulb turns off the the lamp and temp lights turn on. I unplug it and wait about 15 minutes and now its working perfectly.


I'm a projector amateur but it seems its bulb/color wheel issue?

Any help would be appreciated
-Joe