What's the opinion on MIT Sony media?

I just finished a spindle of MIJ Sony which was actually TY. I can't find any more of that around here, and until the question with the current TY media shakes out I'd like to have an alternate source, and it would be especially nice if it was something I could buy locally. What are peoples experiences with made-in-Taiwan Sony media? The local WallyWorld has a good stock and the digital media guide at Digitalfaq.com lists Sony MIT media in their first-class category. I am starting to see made in Malaysia Sony media and I think it's best to avoid that until some reports come in.

Thank you! :D

I bought a small spindle of Sony +R media at Wal-Mart. It has a MID of "SONY" which digitalfaq.com says is not a valid MID for Sony...should be "SONY" plus a 3- or 4-digit alphanumeric code.

As far as MIT media I much prefer Verbatim DVD +/-Rs. Others here have said Sony MIT is acceptable, though of only average quality.

I've gone through almost 15 spindles of Sony +R MIT now without a single bad burn. Don't know about longevity yet though. Haven't checked the MID - I vaguely recall someone saying there was a way to do this on the Philips 3575 using Skip 1-2-3 and some additional buttons?

I've gone through almost 15 spindles of Sony +R MIT now without a single bad burn. Don't know about longevity yet though. Haven't checked the MID - I vaguely recall someone saying there was a way to do this on the Philips 3575 using Skip 1-2-3 and some additional buttons?
Yes, press SKIP-1-2-3 to bring up the FW screen, Arrow right to the media ident. screen. Load a disc (or have one loaded already) and it will read the MID code.

You can keep that screen up and load as many more discs you want to check (blank or recorded).

To exit, press left arrow, then BACK button only...don't press OK or you'll reset the 3575 to factory settings.

Thanks, wabjxo! I'll check the MID tonight.

OMG....

Just noticed that on my lousy work computer screen I actually misspelled "SONY" as "SOMY"!!!

I'm so embarrassed! :(:eek::D

OMG....

Just noticed that on my lousy work computer screen I actually misspelled "SONY" as "SOMY"!!!

I'm so embarrassed! :(:eek::D
No problem...we knew you were talking about the Phony Sony from China...turns out they can't spell Japanese names either. :D

The Malaysian discs are craptastic. Avoiding them is wise.

There is really not much difference in the Sony-ID Taiwan and Japan discs. They are both really good. Country origin is only one sign as to quality. There are a number of Taiwanese discs that are just as good as anything ever made in Japan. Case in point: Verbatim (Mitsubishi). Sony isn't too shabby either.

If the MID is reading as only "SONY" and is from a reliable store (like Walmart), re-verify in another computer, with different ID software. That doesn't sound right.

Safe shopping to you. Verbatim was on sale last week at OfficeMax, and they're usually priced well online (meritline.com, gotmedia.com, supermediastore.com, few others).

I would definitely think (based on experience) the made in Japan Sonys, either by TY or Sony themselves, are quite a bit better than the MIT Sonys, which never give me quality scans anywhere near as good as the Japanese stuff.

MIJ Sony (and I mean discs with an actual SONY08D1 MID, not rebranded TY!), at least 8x, was almost every bit as good as TY media. I can't say I feel that way about their MIT stuff.

I use MIT Sony as 2nd tier stuff personally-- i.e., for second copies of things I already have on top grade media (Verbatim, TY), and/or stuff given to friends who I know don't always take great care of their DVDs anyway. ;) (if it's something that deserves better than a view-once throwaway sort of situation)

Of course, there are variations even amongst the Verbatim media, between Prodisc/CMC made batches... When CMC-made Verbatim is good, (MAPA-hub-coded DVD-R, PAPA-hub-coded DVD+R) it definitely is as good as TY. When it's bad.. it's not worth using (MAP6/PAP6 hub coded CMC).

My media quest continues.

I found a spindle of MIJ Maxell 8X -R at a local Sears store. Media code MXLR G03 and (according to the digitalfaq media guide) supposedly first-class media. I had trouble with four out of the first nine.... one out-right coaster and three others with freezes and stutters. Went out to WallyWorld and picked up a spindle of MIT Sony 16X -R (coded SONY16D1 and also supposedly 1st class media) and the first dozen or so have all been fine. Guess I should re-do the burns I did on the Maxell.

My media quest continues.

I found a spindle of MIJ Maxell 8X -R at a local Sears store. Media code MXLR G03 and (according to the digitalfaq media guide) supposedly first-class media. I had trouble with four out of the first nine.... one out-right coaster and three others with freezes and stutters. Went out to WallyWorld and picked up a spindle of MIT Sony 16X -R (coded SONY16D1 and also supposedly 1st class media) and the first dozen or so have all been fine. Guess I should re-do the burns I did on the Maxell.

I had horrible results with the 8x MIJ Maxell from Sears. I was surprised because the 4x MIJ Maxell's were very good discs.

I did some research on the 8x Sears MIJ Maxell, and there were a lot of them that had Disc Separation problems. You can tell if you look at a failed burn under good light and at the right angle. There will be small (or not so small) darker purple "spots" on the disc. They will look like tiny little inkdrop "spatters", darker than the surrounding burned area. I definitely saw those on most of my failed 8x MIJ Maxell Coasters. I returned mine to Sears for a full refund.