My projector screen is on a fake wall with speaker cloth staples onto the fake wall.

I'd like to remove this existing speaker cloth and build four frames (left, right, top, and bottom) and attach speaker cloth onto this and then attach the frames to the fake wall.

The problem is that the frame would be 3/4" thick and would extend past the screen basically putting the screen inside a shadow box of sorts.

Here are some pictures:

http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1388/1460173102_2040f03525_m.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/jklimek/sets/72157602201116742/)

Do think this is the best way to go?

I could of course remove my screen and put a frame behind it, but I'm terrified of moving the screen because of creases in the screen fabric...

I would bet that your screen fabric doesn't wrinkle like you might worry - but - I think that it would look really good to have the effect of a deep frame around the screen. In fact, I would make it a little deeper and put some colored leds around the screen to jazz it up a little before the movie goes on. The leds would be hidden behind the fake wall in the area between the wall and the screen. Definitely wouldn't want them visible.

You might want to use GOM (guilford of Main) cloth instead of speaker cloth. GOM is fire resistant - don't know about the speaker cloth. Also, it comes in wide rolls that would allow you to cover the whole wall with one piece. At least it looks like you could.

My only reservation about your deep screen is that it will need to be taken out if you go to a 2.35 screen. The CIH thread will show you examples of why you would want to consider CIH.

I agree with the GOM. I originally built my screen wall (which is now torn down to redo) with grille cloth and they only come in 66" long pieces. This required me to do a lot of trimming which looks tacky. The 1 piece GOM would be a better way to go.

Why don't you make a tapered frame for the existing screen say 3 inches wide with basic tapered case molding.

Something like this shape.

http://archmillwork.com/shop/images/h44a.gif

Then wrap the frame in black velvet. It will look like a Professional frame.
See: http://www.smxscreen.com/pro-line-frame.html

Build you speaker fabric (Or GOM) wall frames to fit to the outside of this frame. The screen frame provides a transition from the thicker wall frames down to the screen surface.

The AT Wooden screen thread (http://www.smxscreen.com/forum/showthread.php?t=101) has a good how to for what Big described. If you go that route, make sure you pull the velvet tight and put the staples pretty close to one another to avoid getting any waves in the velvet. About a staple width or so in betwen is pretty good... 2 inches is *not* good.

I just started building a ~6" deep shadow box around my screen. I only have the two sides done right now, but I am really liking the way it looks. I originally planned on having the box only 3" deep or so, but after toying around with it a bit, I liked the slighly deeper look a lot better.

I can't really tell what your screen frame is made out of, but those little tabs on the face of it would drive me crazy. I'd really recommend trying to replace that border, or go over the top of it with the casing (or similar) wrapped in black velvet.

Thanks for all of the suggestions!

By the way, my screen is a DaLite Permwall 110" High-Gain.

There are a couple of spots on the screen that look almost like dead pixels or something (they are super-bright compared to the rest of the screen). It appears on every source so I know it must be the screen. This is why I'm so paranoid about messing with the screen anymore.

I would like to hide the buttons on the border of the screen but that might be too difficult to get it to look good.

Anyways, it sounds like everybody favors the shadow-box look so I'm looking forward to trying it!

Thanks for all of your help!

I would like to hide the buttons on the border of the screen but that might be too difficult to get it to look good.

You could make a large frame out of 1x2s or similar to go around the outside edges of your existing frame, then using the velvet wrapped casing method, nailing the casing on top of the 1x2s and overlapping your existing screen border.