View Full Version : Stage and Riser.... Before or After the carpet?


Anthony1
10-21-07, 02:42 AM
ok, this might seem like a really dumb question, and probably is a dumb question, but I'm at the point where I'm thinking about the stage and riser. I'm not certain that I'm going to have a stage, and I'm not sure I have enough room behind the first row of seating to have a decent riser, but I wanted to inquire about this anyways.

I have a concrete floor, and I plan on getting carpet pad and carpet in there. I'm assuming that I would build the stage and riser before the carpeting even enters the equation, but I'm not positive about that. Anybody ever have a fully carpeted room, and then put a stage and riser in? How does this factor into acoustics?

Basically, the main question I have, is if I decide that I'm definitely going to have a stage and a riser, should I absolutely build them before the carpet comes in? Do the people that install carpet, charge you alot more money, when you have stuff like stages and risers in the room? I'm guessing it makes their job a bit more difficult.

Sorry for all these dumb questions, I'm just a bit clueless on this. I did some searches, and didn't find any of these exact issues discussed. Thanks.

outcast_p
10-21-07, 02:54 AM
I'm not close to my theater being done yet, but I was going to have the stage/riser in first

Reason being, I dont want to have to pay for carpet under the stage/riser that will never be seen.

doctorevil
10-21-07, 03:01 AM
I'm not one to answer for the acoustics, but if you build your riser/stage after the carpet, you'll spend more to then carpet the riser or stage. If you think you'll want one, I'd put it in before the carpet goes in. Labor on that should be less than re-carpeting later.

On the other hand, if you ever want to change the room's use around, it's nice to know you can take out the riser and have the same carpet that already exists...

TheyCallMeTak
10-21-07, 04:54 AM
The same carpet but different wear and color depending on how long after the installs he changes it around. If you've already got the seating and everything into the final position, build the riser/stage first, then get it carpeted.

Design it right the first time and you wont have to move anything. Carpet installs are typically not hard. They'll glue and tack the pad, nail down some tack strips and stretch and trim the carpet. It should not cost significantly more to carpet what will essentially be (from the carpet installer's perspective) a large step. If it is going to function as a real stage of some sort (live music, etc. ) make sure that sucker's braced up good if it's appreciably higher than the floor. If it's not super high you might be able to use engineered I-beams which would give you a chase for your cabling and be more than strong enough to hold up whatever it is you're planning. Good luck and aloha!

gshipley
10-21-07, 09:15 AM
I had the same decision as you and went with the stage and riser first. No point in putting carpet under them where they will not be used.

BIGmouthinDC
10-21-07, 09:18 AM
before carpet, after drywall.

cobolisdead
10-22-07, 11:53 AM
On the other hand, if you ever want to change the room's use around, it's nice to know you can take out the riser and have the same carpet that already exists...

That is what I was going to do.

rutlian
10-22-07, 12:48 PM
I am kind of in the same situation but in my case my Hometheater is in the 2nd level
of my house and it is already carpeted. I am thinking of building a riser and a stage also.
would you pull the carpet out and permanently attached the riser and stage to the floor?
Or just build the riser and stage and kind of just put it on top without nailing them to the floor so in anytime I would like to get of rid either the stage or the riser would be easy? Thanks for the reply. My room is 13' wide and 20' long.

Note: Sorry to the OP for jumping in.

Peter

TheyCallMeTak
10-22-07, 01:47 PM
Hmmm... Interesting one Rutlian. Completely different.

If you leave the carpet in with the idea you can have the same carpet should you choose to remove you run into the same things, color, wear, and dents left from the riser assuming it's not bolted THROUGH the carpet into the subfloor. The good thing (sort of) about leaving it is that you don't have to go through the hassle of pulling it up and throwing it away. Also the carpet and padding is providing some, albeit not much, sound insulation for whatever lies below. The bad thing is securing the riser would be hard to do without damaging the carpet somehow.

I think what I said earlier stands. Design it right the first time so you won't have to move it. Then the construction details can be done properly. I know a lot of it would probably depend on your budget, but saving a relatively small amount of carpet on the chance you'll have to move or remove entirely the riser is probably not worth it. Good luck in any case!

rutlian
10-22-07, 03:56 PM
Hmmm... Interesting one Rutlian. Completely different.

If you leave the carpet in with the idea you can have the same carpet should you choose to remove you run into the same things, color, wear, and dents left from the riser assuming it's not bolted THROUGH the carpet into the subfloor. The good thing (sort of) about leaving it is that you don't have to go through the hassle of pulling it up and throwing it away. Also the carpet and padding is providing some, albeit not much, sound insulation for whatever lies below. The bad thing is securing the riser would be hard to do without damaging the carpet somehow.

I think what I said earlier stands. Design it right the first time so you won't have to move it. Then the construction details can be done properly. I know a lot of it would probably depend on your budget, but saving a relatively small amount of carpet on the chance you'll have to move or remove entirely the riser is probably not worth it. Good luck in any case!

Good point.

rsprance
10-22-07, 04:06 PM
Hmmm... Interesting one Rutlian. Completely different.

If you leave the carpet in with the idea you can have the same carpet should you choose to remove you run into the same things, color, wear, and dents left from the riser assuming it's not bolted THROUGH the carpet into the subfloor. The good thing (sort of) about leaving it is that you don't have to go through the hassle of pulling it up and throwing it away. Also the carpet and padding is providing some, albeit not much, sound insulation for whatever lies below. The bad thing is securing the riser would be hard to do without damaging the carpet somehow.

I think what I said earlier stands. Design it right the first time so you won't have to move it. Then the construction details can be done properly. I know a lot of it would probably depend on your budget, but saving a relatively small amount of carpet on the chance you'll have to move or remove entirely the riser is probably not worth it. Good luck in any case!

I thought you werent supposed to bolt the riser to anything and leave it sperated from the sidewalls. From what i understood the weight of the riser itself would keep it from ever moving

TheyCallMeTak
10-22-07, 08:25 PM
Not to the walls, the ground. The only reason I could see you not doing this is because you're using a commercial system which is standalone. If you're building it, it would probably need to be secured somehow.

pheare
11-12-07, 04:25 PM
I am in a similar situation. I am getting to the point of carpeting and am not 100% sure about the 2nd row. While I appreciate that maybe one should put the riser in first and then carpet, is there any issue with putting riser in after carpeting?

I am not concerned about the cost of the carpet under the riser.

And does the riser absolutely need to be fastened to the floor? What is the benefit to fastening it? I would think the weight of the wood plus seating would keep things pretty planted.

Thanks.

BIGmouthinDC
11-12-07, 04:44 PM
A properly built riser isn't going anywhere unless it is hit by a car. Since this is in your house if it moves that will be the least of your worries.

No problem in building on top of carpet. It will just crush the piss out of it. You can forget about it ever looking the same.

TimB
11-12-07, 06:20 PM
Actually, I did this in a former house. Built a freestanding platform/riser for the second row seats, and put it on several sets of large speaker spikes, so the frame never contacted the carpet. Had patterned carpet, and moving the riser you had to look hard to find any evidence.

pheare
11-12-07, 06:33 PM
Actually, I did this in a former house. Built a freestanding platform/riser for the second row seats, and put it on several sets of large speaker spikes, so the frame never contacted the carpet. Had patterned carpet, and moving the riser you had to look hard to find any evidence.

That's a good idea. How did you fasten the spikes? Don't most of them screw into the bottom of the speaker? Did you just drill a hole and screw them in?

GregoryKY
11-16-07, 10:25 PM
before carpet, after drywall.
Why after drywall?

snowkarver
11-16-07, 10:47 PM
Why after drywall?

I'm currently framing and almost started on the stage when I realized I probably shouldn't until after drywall. Since there's no need to fasten the stage and sidewall framing together, there isn't much point in doing it like a soffitt and then having to cut and hang sheetrock around the stage.

Seemed much easier to just finish the walls first, and then have exact dimensions and tolerances to just go up to finished walls. Plus when the stage surface can butt up nicely to the drywall, no need to trim out a gap afterwards, which would not be the case if you hung the walls around and over.

BIGmouthinDC
11-16-07, 11:19 PM
Why after drywall?

First you want to build a soundproof shell that you build everything else inside of.

Second it makes fitting the drywall a heck of a lot easier.

Silver-Fox
11-18-07, 10:05 AM
On the other hand, if you ever want to change the room's use around, it's nice to know you can take out the riser and have the same carpet that already exists...[/QUOTE]

When the Guys came to install my carpet they ask me a question about moving the riser or stage. I told them it wasn't built to be move and I feel sorry for the person who tries to takes it apart, it was built to last forever.
When working on a project for myself or a Friend I always go the extra mile,
it can't hurt.

TheyCallMeTak
11-27-07, 11:06 PM
After the drywall means if fire ever does become an issue in the walls, it won't hit the riser any faster than anything else in the room. If the fire starts in the riser and the stud cavity is open the fire could travel up into the wall. Just thoughts.