Basic Specs:
Basement 47’ x 12.7’ (oil heat and a rough in for a full bath but I’m going just for half.)
Home Theater 22’ x ~12.5 finished space give or take.
It’s a duplex, modular built, house with 2x6 exterior walls on the first and second floor. The house was just built this year and well its my first house 

The reason for the name well this is my first time owning a house and my first time building anything of this size. Mind you I have used power tools before with my dad as a kid but never framed nor dry walled before. So this will be a bit of adventure. Also I only have a cordless drill and matching handsaw. So I’m lacking on the tools as well.

Current Equipment:
Bose 301 speakers
Sony 7.1 ES receiver
12” KLH sub – this is such a piece of crap – but was worth it for being free 
8” Boston Acoustic sub I use this for a crossover to my little Bose speakers in the rear.
Verizon Fios HD DVR
Optoma HD72 720p native projector
Dalite 106” Model C screen.

First off a few before moving in pictures:
http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc193/sincere8868/IMG_0795.jpg
http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc193/sincere8868/IMG_0749.jpg

And after moving in and settled for a few months. Now its time to do some work 
http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc193/sincere8868/IMG_1524.jpg

So this past weekend I painted part of the exterior wall to water seal it. The Thoroseal was pretty cheap so I figured why not.
http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc193/sincere8868/IMG_1528.jpg

I also started framing… boy this was a 2hr adventure and I ran into a problem already. The drill bit and screw set I got doesn’t drill into the concrete floor. Anyone have any suggestions on how to fasten the baseboard to the concrete floor??
http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc193/sincere8868/IMG_1525.jpg
http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc193/sincere8868/IMG_1526.jpg


Also I have done quite a bit in Sketcup: If anyone is interested I’ll share my project files as well. Here are a few snap shots if you want to get a basic idea of the layout I’m going for. Keep in mind I haven’t done the stage, riser and sofiits yet.
http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc193/sincere8868/Hometheater_Backwall_1.jpg
http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc193/sincere8868/Hometheater_Left_angel.jpg
http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc193/sincere8868/Hometheater_Rest_of_cellar_1.jpg

So that’s where I am today. Any feed back would be greatly appreciated! Especially on how to connect baseboard of a frame to concrete floor.

Thanks,
~Jeff

Jeff
you need a hammer drill, nice drawings what program do you use for those?

Jeff
you need a hammer drill, nice drawings what program do you use for those?
Hammer drill huh?
Hammer Drill (http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&productId=100520682&N=10000003+90401+500859&marketID=401&locStoreNum=8125)

Maybe I'll see if I can borrow one for someone seeing I only need to put a up a few walls.

I used Google Sketcup for the drawings. I highly recommend the program because its free :) http://www.sketchup.com/

You need a hammer drill to fasten the bottom plate to the concrete. Get one that matches your cordless drill and also get an extra battery if you don't already have one. Use the bit that came with your masonry screws.

Don't fret too much about being a first time DIYer, it can be very rewarding when the project is complete. Be patient when building so you don't have to do something twice and also so you don't lose a finger.

Tool Recommendations
Safety Glasses
Circular Saw
Miter Saw
Hammer/Drill
Table Saw

Good thing Christmas is coming. :)

Thanks for the Sketchup link. You can also rent the hammer drill at Home Depot. When you use the drill to attach the plate to the floor be sure to drill the full depth of the screw. I think also you'll need a nut driver, I've never tried it using the phillips head. Good luck with your project.

Powder Actuated Tool

This is what I used to attach my base boards to the concrete floor. Works wonders, but dont forget the ear plugs and the safety glasses.

They use a special .22 cartridge and "shoot" the nail into the concrete floor. MUCH faster and way easier. Get the one that you just pull the trigger and it "fires". Sounds dangerous but really isn't. And, its also incredibly FUN :D

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Powder-actuated_tool

You can get them at pretty much any Home Improvement store and all the accessories needed. I have used mine multiple times.

This is the tool I used (borrowed). it's less than $30 at most stores.

http://www.masterdist.net/images/remingtontools/476.jpg

Ear protection is a must. Load and give one sharp strike with a hammer. The next time I need one I'll be buying one with a trigger.

This is the tool I used (borrowed). it's less than $30 at most stores.

Ear protection is a must. Load and give one sharp strike with a hammer. The next time I need one I'll be buying one with a trigger.

+1!!

Made short work of my framing, great tool to borrow! BTW, is there a sill gasket or equivalent between your PT wood bottom plate and floor? Couldn't see anything in the pics...

What are your plans with the concrete wall(s)? Are you framing them in also? In your sketchup, the one wall looks like you're leaving it concrete - it might cause you some acoustical issues (depending on what your desired results are).

First off thanks for all the replies. I might just go out and pick up one of those Powder Actuated tools today after work. My first goal is to get the 1 wall for the home theater up.

+1!!

Made short work of my framing, great tool to borrow! BTW, is there a sill gasket or equivalent between your PT wood bottom plate and floor? Couldn't see anything in the pics...

What are your plans with the concrete wall(s)? Are you framing them in also? In your sketchup, the one wall looks like you're leaving it concrete - it might cause you some acoustical issues (depending on what your desired results are).

No I did not use any sill gasket between the bottom plate and concrete. Do you really think that is necessary??

Yes I'm planning on adding furring strips on both sides of the theater and 1/2'' styrophome isolation between the furring strips. As show on one side of the theater - (havent finished modeling everything in Sketchup yet). I just haven't decided if I'm going to frame a new wall (window side) on top of the concrete to make it flush -- wall to ceiling. As it is I'm at 12.7 unfinished width. I am planing on going with 1" linacoustic on either side as well for acoustic treatment.
I'm wondering if the extra shoulder width on one side would be nice.

So 1/2 furring strips + 1/2 drywall + 1" linacoustic = 2" each side for ~12.5 width. With a max of an 8' couch that leaves me with 27" rows on either side of the couches. My only concern possibly for sound proofing might be the ceiling. Therefore I might go for RSIC+Hat Channel or 2 layers of Drywall and Green Glue. However I have a few pipes that need to be moved on the ceiling before I can think about that.

I'm not sure if sill gasket is necessary in your neck of the woods, especially with PT wood.....mind you, for the $5 extra, I opted to put in as I tend to 'overengineer' things a little :) . Perhaps someone may be able to shed more light on requirements?

I would think that if you're going to do the 'full meal deal' of GG,RSIC and stuff, you may want to consider framing out the exterior side to mitigate the impact that the exposed concrete may introduce. Sound proofing should take into account the entire envelope, not just the ceiling, since sound travels in a myriad of ways through structure.

I agree wholeheaterdly - it's really hard to sacrifice space!! If soundproofing and or /acoustic considertions are what you are aiming for in the long run, I believe you want to frame the outer walls first before placing and anchoring the new inside walls (I'm DIY guy, not a contractor, so please don't take any of my ideas as the Gospel :p). Just throwing things out as possible food for thought....


Cheers,

I always recommend sill gasket. You'll still want to caulk the base plate of the wall to the floor though.

Bryan

Last night I went to Home Depot with my dad (he has the truck) and picked up some more lumber, sill gasket and a steel 32" exterior door. This should help keep the sound of the laundry and furnace outside the room. I'm not totally concerned with sound leaving the room seeing the bedrooms are up 2 flights. Just keeping the furnace sound a bay :)

Tonight I plan on finishing framing the first wall and maybe get the door in. I'll post more pic's tomorrow with updates.

I do have a question regarding furring strips, as seen in "The Black Banshee Theater thred"
Is is ok to put furring strips right up against the concrete? Should I use a sill gasket under each piece of furring?
He has framed pretty much exactly what I'm looking to do on my half concrete exterior wall. Take a look here:
Look Here (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=11914954#post11914954)

Thanks
~Jeff

Jeff - I was actually at BlackBanshee's house this weekend checking out his progress and yes, the furring strips are directly mounted on the [edit: concrete] wall. But, we live in Colorado - a very, very dry climate.

Well over the past few days I managed to finish framing the 1 dividing wall.

Here are some updated pics, as you can see in this picture I had a few pipes to work around. I plan on making a sofit on the theater side to help hide these pipes.
http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc193/sincere8868/IMG_1529.jpg
Here you can see how I attached to the floor joists:
http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc193/sincere8868/IMG_1530.jpg

Thanks for all the suggestions, the powder actuated nail gun was sure easy to use:
http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc193/sincere8868/IMG_1531.jpg

This picture show has the builder ran all the electric under the floor joist. I'll have to fix this later down the road.
http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc193/sincere8868/IMG_1532.jpg

Now for the question of the day. I assume when installing a door its you need to make the interior portion of the door flush with the 2x4's. Thus the exterior (side with trim) extrudes away from the 2x4 studs by 1" 1/4 an inch.
http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc193/sincere8868/IMG_1536.jpg

So if I understand this correctly this is what I'm going to do for the door:
Run 2 lines of silicone caulk on the floor (note I put sill gasket down first). Put 2 lines of caulk on sides and top of door and the door frame. Then place door in place. Use shims to level and screw through shims to secure to frame. Afterwards use Great stuff (for windows and doors) to fill the gaps.
I'm pretty much following this site (http://www.hgtvpro.com/hpro/bp_framing/article/0,2617,HPRO_20147_3462339,00.html) for instructions, they have a little video that helped.


I'm planing on fastening the door this weekend so any feedback would be great.

Thanks again!
~Jeff

I have decided to wait to put the door in till after I drywall. Looks like most people end up doing that around here.

I do have a question though. Do most people pull permits for their home theaters in basements. I was contemplating on if I should go through the trouble of pulling a permit. Only down side I can think of would be cost and not to mention the increase in taxes each year. Any thoughts?

There are some pretty lengthy debates on the whole permit or no permit issue. Just do a search for them. Besides paying more in taxes, other factors include ability to sell your home with unpermited construction and insurance coverage in case of fire.

If you do not get a permit just make sure that you follow code when building out the basement. Most people if they are smart get a home inspection before they commit to signing the paper work when buying a home. This will save you headaches if you ever do sell your home on down the road. When we sold our last house the buyer had a home inspection and that guy was there for 4 hours snooping around.

This is the tool I used (borrowed). it's less than $30 at most stores.

http://www.masterdist.net/images/remingtontools/476.jpg

Ear protection is a must. Load and give one sharp strike with a hammer. The next time I need one I'll be buying one with a trigger.

Just FYI, if you home was built in the 50's like mine the concrete is pretty hard..This tool did not work 75% of the time...It just chipped the concrete. And that was with the stronger bullets

In my town you need certain emergency egress exits in case of fire. I actually had to install a set of steps out of the basement to the outside (a fairly big job) because you need two means of egress (one is the stairs down to the basement from upstairs and the other is the new outside steps). I also created a 'bedroom' out of some space in the basement and that room required an egress window (another pain the a$$ that required cutting into the foundation). But it is all for safety and done right and inspected so i sleep better and should have no problems when i go to sell. Going to sell has screwed many people. I know this from experience!

I have been doing allot of designing in sketchup lately. And I have a few options I would like some suggestions on.

Once again my main concern is the width of the room. Right now I’m at 12.7 unfinished. So rough calculation: 1” furring + ½” drywall + 1” furring and linacostic = 2.5 inches per side = 4 inches for a grand total of 12.3’ x 22’ Do you think I’m worrying to much about the width of the room?

Ok down to the first design review:

Option 1 add drywall on the existing studs having a ~4inch lip run the length of the room:
http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc193/sincere8868/Right_wallwithdrywall.jpg

Option 2: Build a wall inside the a wall. Possibly overhang the studs by an inch so I can drywall directly to the studs and furring strips attached to the concrete.
http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc193/sincere8868/Right_walldoublestuds.jpg
http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc193/sincere8868/Right_walldoublestudswithdrywall.jpg


So what is everyone’s take?
Personaly i'm leaning towards a flush wall.

I think BlackBanshee chose the last of your options - 1" furring on the bottom directly against the concrete, matched up to a full 2x4 framed wall above. This helped him run HVAC, electrical, and low voltage easier on that wall. I think that would end up looking better than your first option. But, I understand worrying about the width...

Lots of updates to post. I'll take some pictures in the next day or so to show you how far I have come.

Just this week I got my permits for the basement, found out its required in my town.

I have finished the framing and now am starting on the electrical.

Any feed back on the design:
http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc193/sincere8868/Bicknellcellarsketch_electrical.jpg

You need to have an outlet on every wall greater than 2'. They should be no more than 12' apart and within a few feet of every entrance. Looks like you may need one on the left wall.

One thing to consider is to build the outlets into your column design. You can minimize the wall penetrations that way.

I used liquid nails to attach non-bearing partition wall to concrete floor with a few tap-cons...works OK..

Well its been forever since I have updated the thred. Almost felt like I hibernated and now have come out for the spring.

So to get things started lets post some new pics, lets start by getting some help for some drywall:
http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc193/sincere8868/Home%20Theater/IMG_1860.jpg
http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc193/sincere8868/Home%20Theater/IMG_1863.jpg
Here you can see the rear softit desgin to work around the pipes, need to do this to keep the room at 12.5 x 22
http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc193/sincere8868/Home%20Theater/IMG_1857.jpg

I added furring strips on the cealing to help with an uneven joist. Also you can see where i'm planing to put he projector up I added some 2x6's up there to ensure I'll always hit a joist. (yes I did add extra furring strips there to back the drywall)
http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc193/sincere8868/Home%20Theater/IMG_1854.jpg
http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc193/sincere8868/Home%20Theater/IMG_1870.jpg

Here is the other end in the closet:
http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc193/sincere8868/Home%20Theater/IMG_1878.jpg

And a better shot showing all the tubing for the speakers:
http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc193/sincere8868/Home%20Theater/IMG_1883.jpg

Even though it was an inside wall I added some leftover r-19 and R-13 insoluation in the wall between the closet and the theater room:
http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc193/sincere8868/Home%20Theater/IMG_1891.jpg

Ok after 3 days of mudding and sanding its time for some paint. I'm not to worried about how it looks because i'm planing to cover the walls with GOM and linacoustic.

http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc193/sincere8868/Home%20Theater/IMG_1908.jpg

Its great to get a few friend over to help :) not to mention my dad brought his auto painter:
http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc193/sincere8868/Home%20Theater/IMG_1909.jpg

Closet painted: I'm going to paint it all black later and install the shelfs.
http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc193/sincere8868/Home%20Theater/IMG_1910.jpg

And if you were wondering this is the chaos that lies just outside the theater entrance. You have to have your priorities straight! Theater needs to be finished before the rest of the basement!!
http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc193/sincere8868/Home%20Theater/IMG_1911.jpg

Well 2 days later and a few hundred dollars less I have a sofit.

I took the design pretty much from Ruben, however I used 1"4 inch thick MDF on the sides. Check it out:
http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc193/sincere8868/Home%20Theater/IMG_1913.jpg
http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc193/sincere8868/Home%20Theater/IMG_1914.jpg
http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc193/sincere8868/Home%20Theater/IMG_1919.jpg
http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc193/sincere8868/Home%20Theater/IMG_1921.jpg
http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc193/sincere8868/Home%20Theater/IMG_1922.jpg
http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc193/sincere8868/Home%20Theater/IMG_1923.jpg

Had to put the 106" screen up to make sure things lined up ok :)
http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc193/sincere8868/Home%20Theater/IMG_1916.jpg

Ok so I talked to the electrical inspector. Guess you have to have Tamper prof outlets now. Its a national law that just got passed back in January requiring all outlets installed in new homes to be tamper prof. Needless to say I have to return all the outlets I bought from home depot and some how find 20amp outlets? So far 3 places I called don't even carry them.

Wait scratch that I found one place that has them, special order for $3.60 a piece sweet. Just for reference the place is called Northeast Electric Supply -
(508) 231-4610

I'll take some new shots this weekend with the finished sofit if anyone is interested.

~Jeff

So I have made some progress since the last time I have posted. However not to much. I have moved on to the next phase of putting up Linacoustic. I found a local dealer that sold 100' roll for only $170.

Here is the Linacoustic RC:
http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc193/sincere8868/Home%20Theater/IMG_2515.jpg

I started putting up the 1x3's and 1x2's on the wall to attach the GOM to when I pick that up.
http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc193/sincere8868/Home%20Theater/IMG_2525.jpg


I realized after the fact that the linacoustic is really 1 inch thick, even though my furring I'm putting up is only ~.75. I'm wondering if other people have gone the same route. I'm betting on the fact the linacoustic will flatten a bit under the fabric.

Here are a few pictures of a removable shelf for the front speaker.

I'll be also adding vertical supports as well as building a complete frame for the from and wrap it all in GOM.

http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc193/sincere8868/Home%20Theater/IMG_2522.jpg

http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc193/sincere8868/Home%20Theater/IMG_2523.jpg

Here is a shot of me adding the trim around the eclectic outlet's
http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc193/sincere8868/Home%20Theater/IMG_2517.jpg

So I have 2 questions.

1 I'll restate. Any one ever put up furing that didnt match the depth of the liancoustic? Mine is .75" and the linacoustic is 1"

2. I'm thinking of stuffing all the soffits with Owens Corning Fiberglass Batts R-19 6" think to act as bass absorbers. The bottom of the soffit will be covered in fabric.

Thanks,
~Jeff

Hey Jeff! Just read your thread. You're making good progress. Better than I am anyhow. We're in similar positions. I, too, am learning all this stuff as I go.

I'm in the middle of putting up furring strips for my linacoustic. Got it about halfway done now and hope to finish tomorrow morning. I ripped 2x4's into 1" thick strips. In my opinion, the quarter inch that you lack will not be a big deal. The linacoustic will compress a little and you'll never know. If you're worried about it, rip some quarter inch strips from 2x4's and attach those over your existing furring.

Looking forward to follow the rest of your build.

EDIT: I just looked back at some of the dates. Did you just disappear for a year? hahahaha....if so, we really are similar. LOL

So I worked on putting up some of the Linacoustic last night. Got my fiance to help even. She also passed the Home Depot test. Sent her down to pick up the washer used to hold up the Linacoustic and she came back with exactly what I wanted.

I was a bit worried the Linacoustic wouldn't compress enough and you would notice a bulge in the fabric. So I had some scrap fabric laying around and stapled up on the wall to see what it looks like. Looks fantastic, make me what to go out and get all the fabric for the room.
http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc193/sincere8868/Home%20Theater/IMG_2529.jpg


Here is a better shot showing how I put up the linacoustic. As you can kind of see the Linacoustic comes up to 56" height give or take. I have read most people are going up to around 52", but it think 56" should be ok.

At this rate I'm going to maybe only used half of the 100' of Linacoustic... Might have to get creative in finding other uses for it.

http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc193/sincere8868/Home%20Theater/IMG_2531.jpg

Looking good but your final result will look even better if you use a lot more staples. It looks like your staples are 8-10 inches apart and if you are pulling your fabric tight you will create an alternating loose/tight pattern on the wall which will be noticeable under certain lighting conditions and flash photography. I've called this "The zebra effect". It works best if you are using an upholstery stapler and place the staples an inch or so apart. I think mine are about a staple width apart. Think of it as stitching the fabric to the wall not tacking it up.

Also washers are overkill and may reflect flash photography (think guests) The fasteners are only needed to keep the linacoustic in place until the fabric is in place. I have many sections of my walls without fasteners and the tight fabric holds it in place. You can just use drywall screws until it just slightly compresses the linacoustic. I can see that some of your washers look like they are compressing the Linacoustic which means they are too tight.

Thanks for stopping by and checking out my progress Bigmouth. I have to say I love your theater construction thread, that bar area is just amazing.

Good call on the washers with the linacostic. I'll correct that tonight.

As for the fabric your right I dont want the "zebra effect". However at the same time it was just a piece of scrap fabric to see how it would look. I'll be sure to order 10,000 staples when I get the GOM.

~Jeff

Well its been a few days since I posted some updates. I figured I would share what has been going on.

First off lots of updates, lots of pictures and stories to share.

I finished putting up the linacoustic. Only used about 50' of the 100' I have.. Any one in MA looking for some?

Also I stuffed the sofits with some R19:
http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc193/sincere8868/Home%20Theater/IMG_2533.jpg

http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc193/sincere8868/Home%20Theater/IMG_2547.jpg



I also order Dazian Janus Black and Burgundy. I went with them because of cost mostly and well I liked how it wasnt as see through. Even tested a small piece to see how it stood up with a match under it. Boy the fire rating sure is nice! Getting the fabric game me plenty of motivation to get all the wood working done. I finished framing out the coloms in the front to house the L C R speakers, and started putting up the fabric over the sofits.

http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc193/sincere8868/Home%20Theater/IMG_2538.jpg



Mind you at the time I only had a hand stapler... ... not fun.

http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc193/sincere8868/Home%20Theater/IMG_2545.jpg

Almost forgot to add wood to the walls so i can put up posters:
http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc193/sincere8868/Home%20Theater/IMG_2550.jpg

You can see the self I made for one of my rear speakers. The top part I left free of insalation because I want to put the fiber optie engine up there for the star cealing later.

http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc193/sincere8868/Home%20Theater/IMG_2537.jpg


Saturday night had a friend come over for dinner party. He's a contract builder and he was shocked to find out I had allready used about 500 staples on 8' soffit and wasnt using a air powered one. Needless I didnt know he had a compressor and didnt need it at the moment so I have a couple weeks to borrow it. Next morning 8am woke up and went down to Home depot and got this new toy:

http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc193/sincere8868/Home%20Theater/IMG_2548.jpg

Wow that makes a world of diffrence. However 30 staples into the job.. it broke :( the O-Ring busted in the trigger... I took it right back for a replacement. Needless to say things have been smooth sailing since:

http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc193/sincere8868/Home%20Theater/IMG_2542.jpg

http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc193/sincere8868/Home%20Theater/IMG_2541.jpg

http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc193/sincere8868/Home%20Theater/IMG_2551.jpg

It took me 2hrs just to do the upper half of that wall.. went through 6 clips of staples.. its fun :) I'm not worried about some of the mistakes because i'm doing molding top, middle and bottom of the wall, plus the cealing will have some furring strips and 1/4" mdf on it for the star cealing.

Lookin' good Jeff! Glad to see you got your hands on a stapler, LOL. In building my DIY screen I could tell in the first 20 staples that I needed one too. I went out and bought that same Bostich stapler. It eliminates all the frustrations and actually makes things a bit fun! My screen used up about 1000 staples, and I'm going to use thousands more before this job is done.

Keep it up man. We're watching. :)

Thanks for the comment Tony!

So last night I had my buddy Dave over how is a carpenter by trade and he helped me figure out what to do with the ceiling. I spent another $150 on furring strips and rigid foam isolation boards to cover the ceiling. My plan is to wrap them in the black dazian fabric I have and poke through the fiber optics for the star ceiling.... Yes yes.. I know I should have got some black velvet. For HT1.0 will go with Dazian Janus, which i'm surprised it really does a great job soaking up the projector light.

I'll post some pic's later, forgot the memory card at home .. in the basement again.

On man.. I cant believe its been over a year since I posted on my own thread...

Well I have a big surprise for anyone who stay's tuned... Semi final pictures of the room, plus the back room is done with a wet-bar and kegorator. The pictures will be up tonight.

What I cant believe is the fact I have saved up enough money to get some Berkline home theater seats. I'm thinking of going for the 45034 with 2 rows. I have already contacted Roman and he has already been more helpful than I could have imagined.

~Jeff

Looking forward to see what you have got done.

Jason

My theater is so cool.. this kid I guess wanted to steal all my stuff.

Yesterday my wife came home and found a note from UPS on the door saying a package was delivered to the neighbor. So you called me up and verified that I was getting stuff in the mail. (All my popcorn machine supplies yummy). She went next door to find out that someone tried to break into our house.

I guess the next door neighbor (he's a big guy) heard a glass window smash and saw some teenager breaking into my house. He ran out side yelled at the kid and I guess even tackled him. He was holding onto him pretty tightly. Guess the kid started crying and he loosed up his grip. At that point the kid broke free and took up. My neighbor wasn't sure what he as legaly able to do so he didnt chase him down.

Sure enough the cops came.. dusted for finder prints and even showed a couple of pictures to my neighbor who was able to positively identify the kid. Guess its a troubled teen who was kicked out of his mothers house, stole a car, stole her credit cards.. ect. So the cops know who he is its just a matter of time before they get him.

Lucky for me he only had time to smash the window. I even found the rock on the inside. Man it was a pain cleaning up the glass that was all over the room. Even today I'm still finding little pieces of glass.

So needless to say I have a glass company coming over this morning to take a look at the window to see how much its going to cost me to replace it... sucks really.

Here is a picture after I duck taped up the window.
http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc193/sincere8868/Home%20Theater/069.jpg

So its been a blur finishing off the bar.. that and I cant seem to find any of the in progress pictures. However if anyone wants any more detailed pictured please let me know and I'll take them for you.

The wet-bar is hand made with a keg orator under the bar.
http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc193/sincere8868/Home%20Theater/086.jpg

http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc193/sincere8868/Home%20Theater/091.jpg

http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc193/sincere8868/Home%20Theater/090.jpg

http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc193/sincere8868/Home%20Theater/089.jpg

http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc193/sincere8868/Home%20Theater/081.jpg

http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc193/sincere8868/Home%20Theater/092.jpg

http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc193/sincere8868/Home%20Theater/083.jpg

http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc193/sincere8868/Home%20Theater/084.jpg

http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc193/sincere8868/Home%20Theater/085.jpg

And now you can see how badly I need some home theater seats.

Is that an AT screen? Looks really nice! How are your front speakers located?

Its actually A dalite screen which is a pull down. I have a walkout slider door behind that.

The front wall is made of 3 pieces all build out of wood and covered in black fabric. The speakers sit about half way up on the right and left side on a shelf which also doubles as extra support for the whole thing.