Hello everyone,

Can you guys please make some suggestions about this wall that i framed i don't know how i did it but i didnt measure accurately hopefully you can see inn the pics what i mean. I am going to be attaching this wall to the joists above using rsic DC-04 clips so i wanted a 1/2" gap betwenn the joist and wall as you can see on the left side this is fine but then as the wall moves to the right the gap increases i could have sworn i measured at different spots on the floor but apparantely i missed this on this particular wall. it starts to slope at 1.5" then slopes to a 2" gap, and then finally a 3" gap at the end of the wall. What i plan on doing is where the wall has the 3" gap is to take a 2X4 block and nail it to the top then where it decreases just rip a 2X4 to the needed with and nail to the top is this a good plan, will this hurt anything as far as sound isolation is concerned? Do i even need to address this since i am using dc-04 clips? Or should i just scrap this wall and do it over? Please offer any suggestions you have.

Thanks

Looks like some blocks in there and using the dc-04 clips should work good. You could also add some liquid nails between the two.

Yeah, as long as the wall isn't structural, just shim it with blocks and continue on with your building.

I'm not seeing how you are going to attach it to the joists in the first place. It looks like from the pictures the wall is under the HVAC. Is it actually behind? If that's the case, then, if you can't attatch the clip to the joist and then to the top plate, I'd go ahead and shim it.

I had the same issue with my main HVAC trunk line. But it was the main trunck that was comming loose from the hangers and causing the sag. Fortunately, I went half-sies with BritInVa on a drywall lift and was able to lift it back up and rehang it. I ended up moving it a good 2 inches.

Good luck,
Tom

Sorry to be the bearer of bad news but I'd scrap it. As was previously pointed out, you'll need to go up behind the ductwork and within 1/2" or so of the joists. The other option (not preferable) would be to build a really short wall to 'stack' on top of this one to get you up to the joist level. It will be a weak point in the wall integrity though.

Bryan

ok here is where the wall is goint to get attached to with the DC-04 clips

Bpape so you don't think i should take blocks and nail and glue them to the top where there are gaps?

Thanks guys

As long as the wall isnt structural, Id use the shims and your clips and you should be fine.

Thats just my 2 cents./

OK, so according to the new pic, the joist IS behind the HVAC trunk. I STILL am not seeing how you are going to fit and attach a clip on the side of the joist, gap in the top plate or not. Aren't the DC-04s the "L" shaped ones? I'm not at home right now, but I'm, pretty sure the DC-04 is what I'm using and they are the "L shaped ones.

Tom

OK, so according to the new pic, the joist IS behind the HVAC trunk. I STILL am not seeing how you are going to fit and attach a clip on the side of the joist, gap in the top plate or not. Aren't the DC-04s the "L" shaped ones? I'm not at home right now, but I'm, pretty sure the DC-04 is what I'm using and they are the "L shaped ones.

Tom

Hey Tom

Yes they are the L shaped ones

OK, so according to the new pic, the joist IS behind the HVAC trunk. I STILL am not seeing how you are going to fit and attach a clip on the side of the joist, gap in the top plate or not. Aren't the DC-04s the "L" shaped ones? I'm not at home right now, but I'm, pretty sure the DC-04 is what I'm using and they are the "L shaped ones.

Tom

They may work if one is willing to get a bit creative with the installation. How about attaching "L" bracket to the back of the wall's top plate and screw the bumper to the bottom of the joist. Just screw the bracket to the wall before lifting it in place and drill a hole in the top plate so that you can screw in the bumper connection.

Yup. That'll work.

Bryan

I'd rip a 2x4 to fit and secure with some urethane adhesive and secure with screws driven up from the bottom of the top plate. A few clamps would hold the ripped board in place while securing. That way you'll have a secure backer to join the bottom of the soffit to.

Viper20 - got your PM. Here is a photo of what I was trying to install. However in your case the metal bracket would be on the non-face side of your wall. A double top plate would give you more horizontal surface area to attach the L-bracket to.

http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb308/mdrueen/IMG_0129.jpg

Let me know if it still isn't clear.

Got your PM, A couple of pictures to describe this process:

http://www.pac-intl.com/pics/PAC_Decoupled.gif

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b393/bigmouthindc/DSC01174.jpg

However in this method you must attach the clips to the beam first then to the side of the wall once it is in place.

Guess great minds think alike... :)

AH i get it so i just screw the rubber bumper into the beam and then raise the wall in place and attach it the L to the stud so there is no need to worry about the gap size then doing it this way correct in other words i dont need to add any blocking to the wall right? One other question what type of screws should be used for attaching the DC-04's

Thanks very very much for your help guys it is greatly appreciated

Guess great minds think alike... :) Actually it was your idea, I was just helping viper visualize it. You can take all the credit. I just need to find another napkin.

Actually i think i am going to add blocking to the wall unless anybody sees an issue with this because if i don't when i make the soffits i will be losing 3" of space that i really can't afford to lose.

Thanks again guys

One other question what type of screws should be used for attaching the DC-04's

Thanks very very much for your help guys it is greatly appreciated

I used whatever I had available, but my favorite to use for the L-bracket part I found near the metal bracing parts section at HD. They are wood screws with a metal screw type philips head. They came in a small plastic packet in groups of 50 or so. Because of the head design they never srtipped on me, even when driving the screws in at weird angles. When I ran out I used course drywall screws.

For the bumper screws I used 2.25 inch fine drywall screws only because that's what I had on hand. In some sections I bolted the bumbers down instead of using screws because I didn't have the space to drive a screw above the bumper.

I just need to find another napkin. :D:D

I used whatever I had available, but my favorite to use for the L-bracket part I found near the metal bracing parts section at HD. They are wood screws with a metal screw type philips head. They came in a small plastic packet in groups of 50 or so. Because of the head design they never srtipped on me, even when driving the screws in at weird angles. When I ran out I used course drywall screws.

For the bumper screws I used 2.25 inch fine drywall screws only because that's what I had on hand. In some sections I bolted the bumbers down instead of using screws because I didn't have the space to drive a screw above the bumper.

:D:D

Thanks again : )

For attaching the "bumpber" through the top plates, I used 3" long, 1/4 lag bolts with matching nuts, washers and a lock washer. Attached the "L" part using . 1 1/2 " hexhead machine screws (#10, I think). I found it much easier to run in hex heads than phillips, epsecially if it's a tight space and the drill doesn't quite fit in level or square.

I attached the "L" with one screw through the bottom of the long slot, leaving a little play, eyeballed drilling up through the bottom of the top plate, dropped in the bolt, tightened down and attached nuts and washers. This pulled the bracket down a bit along the long slot, Then I tightened up the screw and ran another one in one of the holes on the opposite side.

Tom

I used Tom's approach about half the time. One thing to add if you go this way is to make sure to use lock-tight along with the lock washer. With all that wall shaking that the space will endure over the years, you don't want any chance of the bolt rattleing loose.