Are you running your projector in eco mode? If so it's possible the arc could be jumping from spot to spot, causing a fluctuation in brightness. If this is the case running your projector in normal mode for about 80 hours or so should resolve this.

http://archive2.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=5820302&&#post5820302


Thanks, I will try this

It sounds like my bulb might have prematurely died.
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=16675958#post16675958

Any thoughts on where to find the cheapest replacement?
I assume there are factory and aftermarket replacements, if so, how do they compare? Does the entire assembly have to be replaced, or can a lower cost bulb be fitted to the existing assembly (I haven't looked at the actual design used in this PJ yet)?

It sounds like my bulb might have prematurely died.
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=16675958#post16675958

Any thoughts on where to find the cheapest replacement?
I assume there are factory and aftermarket replacements, if so, how do they compare? Does the entire assembly have to be replaced, or can a lower cost bulb be fitted to the existing assembly (I haven't looked at the actual design used in this PJ yet)?

Just do a NexTag search of ET-LAE1000.

Try e-bay and do a search or try this URL. Can't vouch for any of these sources, but these are the lowest prices I've found so far.
http://itemlistings.ebay.com/sdcsrp?fl=130313529157&product=Panasonic%20%20ET-LAE1000&sconstraints=PriceMin.Value%3D207%26PriceMax.Value%3D521

I thought about that one, but it decided to pay the extra 20 bucks and get it from a trusted retailer.
Warren.

Been reading the boards for a while, never posted until now.
Loving my AE2000 since 10/08 never had a problem until now. The bulb is due for replacement, around 2300hrs, had to reset at around 1900hrs.
Turned projector on, and it powers up, lamp comes on, and immediately shuts down. Any ideas what might be wrong? Any input appreciated.

It sounds like your lamp is bad. When it gets to that point it will shut down like that. I had issues like that for a while until i figured out it was the lamp. i replaced it and there were no problems. I have Relampit do my lamp, nice guy ask for John.

Can someone please explain how to use the waveform function properly, step by step? I did a simple calibration with DVE. Is it useful to use the waveform?
Thanks.

Can someone please explain how to use the waveform function properly, step by step? I did a simple calibration with DVE. Is it useful to use the waveform?
Thanks.

See Kelvin1965S post #65 here:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=934773&highlight=waveform+monitor&page=3

It sounds like your lamp is bad. When it gets to that point it will shut down like that. I had issues like that for a while until i figured out it was the lamp. i replaced it and there were no problems. I have Relampit do my lamp, nice guy ask for John.

Thanks Big Daddy.

I thought about that one, but it decided to pay the extra 20 bucks and get it from a trusted retailer.
Warren.

Please do share the retailer, in dire need of a lamp.

Try e-bay and do a search or try this URL. Can't vouch for any of these sources, but these are the lowest prices I've found so far.
http://itemlistings.ebay.com/sdcsrp?fl=130313529157&product=Panasonic%20%20ET-LAE1000&sconstraints=PriceMin.Value%3D207%26PriceMax.Value%3D521

Found out the hard way this is a bare bulb.

Did you call relampit? What happened?

How do I reset the lamp hours on the unit?

its on the third or fourth to last page of the manual but I happen to know off the top of my head having just done it last night:

open the onscreen menu,
navigate to the very bottom option,
select lamp runtime
hold enter (the center button) for 3 seconds, until the unit powers off.

next time you turn it on, the runtime should be reset to 0.

Thanks for your help. I changed the lamp yesterday and it stayed with the old numbers.

Ok done, it's back to zero. Thank you.

I want to report what happened to my PJ hoping it might help others with the same problem.

PROBLEM:
From the 200 hours, my AE2000 had developed a persistent and visible lack of color uniformity. The problem was observed as a cyan color stripe in bright white picture and dark red stripe in a black image. It covered almost the whole width of the bottom of the screen, with a height of approximately 4” (10 cm).
Figs. 1 and 2 are drawings of the problem.

http://img263.imageshack.us/img263/4514/fig1qx6.jpg
http://img263.imageshack.us/img263/4514/fig1qx6.th.jpg (http://img263.imageshack.us/my.php?image=fig1qx6.jpg)
(fig.1) White screen with cyan stripe

http://img263.imageshack.us/img263/4756/fig2ds2.jpg
http://img263.imageshack.us/img263/4756/fig2ds2.th.jpg (http://img263.imageshack.us/my.php?image=fig2ds2.jpg)
(fig.2) Black screen with dark red stripe

I realized that:
• The problem didn’t get worse.
• There was no lack of uniformity in the rest of the screen.
• It was not an input problem (it happens in all entrances).
• It was not a cable problem.
• It was not a dust problem.
• It showed in all the image modes, although less in the brightest modes (light cyan on white pictures).
• It did not disappear using the stuck-on pixels fixer.

The conclusion was that the LCD with red polarizer was not “closing” and “opening” completely in that zone. For that reason, combining blue and green with defect of red, resulted in a cyan color (instead of white), and in dark red color when the blue and the green LCDs were off.

SOLUTION:
Because I took no photos, I am posting here some of Cine4home’s reviews.
I opened my projector using the disassemble guides of the Service Manual.
Removing first the upper case, I took off the lamp: 3 screws.
Then the top cover: 8 screws.
Then the main-board: 4 screws more and several connectors including the 3 LCDs ribbon connectors. Important: take note of the relative positions of all connectors.

http://img134.imageshack.us/img134/1782/fig3ol8.jpg
http://img134.imageshack.us/img134/1782/fig3ol8.th.jpg (http://img134.imageshack.us/my.php?image=fig3ol8.jpg)
(fig.3) Main-board

The optic block was now at sight (see fig. 4).
http://img263.imageshack.us/img263/729/fig4gb9.jpg
http://img263.imageshack.us/img263/729/fig4gb9.th.jpg (http://img263.imageshack.us/my.php?image=fig4gb9.jpg)
(fig. 4) Optic block

http://img263.imageshack.us/img263/7702/fig5ho9.jpg
http://img263.imageshack.us/img263/7702/fig5ho9.th.jpg (http://img263.imageshack.us/my.php?image=fig5ho9.jpg)
(fig. 5) Polarizers -inverted position-

I localized the red LCD and, according to the Service Manual, I found two “boards” in front of the red LCD panel: the “Incidence Polarizer” and the “Phase Difference Board”. This is very important: I marked with a fine marker their relative positions (see detail on fig. 4) and only then I removed the outer board (the Phase Difference Board).
And there it was the problem!
The crystal (or plastic) is fixed to the chassis with a metallic frame. This frame holds the crystal on 3 edges (lateral and lower sides) and, so that it does not slide upwards, there are two sticky white ribbons (see fig. 5). My PJ is ceiling-mounted. Combined with heat and some vibration (and perhaps a bump on the long trip?), the sticky ribbons had loosened and the crystal had descended several mm. It was the light (or the lack of) that passes through the white sticky ribbon what I was seeing in the screen.
I put the crystal in its normal position but the sticky ribbon had left a mark on the crystal. I cleaned it with alcohol, made sure not to leave marks and proceeded to mount the PJ.
Now the PJ works perfectly and there are no more color uniformity problems.
Although this may seem very difficult, it did not take me more than 1 hour to solve it. :)

Thank you for posting this important piece of information, I had the same problem with the projector and followed step by step what you did. At first it was a little scary but once you do it is a very simple thing to do, precautions must be taken as you said because we are dealing with some delicate parts but easy overall.

Again thank you for your findings and for taking your time to share it with all of us.

Does this projector accept 4:2:2 or 4:4:4 or both?

I'm using 4:2:2, works fine.

Need the the service manual for PT-ae2000u.
Does any one have the .pdf file or know where I can get it for free?

Need the the service manual for PT-ae2000u.
Does any one have the .pdf file or know where I can get it for free?
ftp://ftp.panasonic.com/pub/Panasonic/Drivers/PBTS/manuals/OM_PT-AE2000U.pdf

jimsfield, the Service Manual have the instructions to dismantle the projertor with each piece part number. Its very dificult find this kind of manuals at manufacturers FTP's.

The link goes to User Manual.

Cheers.

Thanks, but I need the service manual b/c I am going to replace the blue polarizer and wanted the instruction on how to disassemble pj...

Need the the service manual for PT-ae2000u.
Does any one have the .pdf file or know where I can get it for free?

http://www.servicemanuals.net/ServiceManual/PANASONIC/ae2000/pos1/results.aspx
This is a source from servicemanuals.net for the service manual but it will cost you about $16US. I have a copy and it doesn't have the specific directions for dismantling the AE2000 but it shows exploded diagrams which help, and includes part numbers for all items you might need for repairs.
RD

Thanks, but I need the service manual b/c I am going to replace the blue polarizer and wanted the instruction on how to disassemble pj...

Why do You need to replace the polarizer?
PM your e-mail so I will be able to send You the Service Manual.

Where's the best place to sell a used projector these days? I've got to unload my AE2000 with 2 bulbs now that I've upgraded. Also, what's a fair price? I was thinking something in the $1000 range.

I tried my family and friends. Everyone is going to get back to me. I hate the idea of shipping it to someone. When my AE2000 arived last year a baseball size hole apeared on the box. I know why the shipper double boxed the unit!

I just sold my used AE2000 with 600 hours on it for $1000. I guess if I had sold it a few months ago I would have netted probably $200-$300 more.

I liked the fact that the unit came doubled-boxed to begin with.

If you do sell your unit on eBay be aware of the fact that many off-shore bidders are lurking out there. These units are quite a bit cheaper to begin with in the U.S., then add the fact that our currency is about 10-20% down. It is worth it to a potential foreign buyer to cover a $100-$200 shipping fee to get one of these units used for under $1K.

Where's the best place to sell a used projector these days? I've got to unload my AE2000 with 2 bulbs now that I've upgraded. Also, what's a fair price? I was thinking something in the $1000 range.

Do you want to sell one bulb?

I've had a AE2000U for a few years now (great projector!), but tonight it started shutting itself off after just a few minutes of use. The lamp is at 2468 hours, and the "replace lamp" indicator has been on for a while now, so I guess it's trying to tell me something.

The thing is, before it shuts down, the picture quality is beautiful and bright -- same as the day I bought it. Is the lamp simply shutting off because the lamp hours counter is reaching some preset limit, or is the unit sensing a bad lamp somehow and proactively shutting it down?

Also, if anyone can recommend a good source for a replacement, I'd appreciate it (I can probably install it myself unless special tools are needed).

its funny that it's only started shutting off now as that behavior is supposed to begin happening after 2000 hrs. it's a built in indicator to change the lamp. there's nothing to stop you from resetting the lamp runtime and just continuing to use the old lamp, but this behavior is "not recommended".

frankly, I wish I had a lamp last 2400 hours. I've had three and they've all died within 1200.

its funny that it's only started shutting off now as that behavior is supposed to begin happening after 2000 hrs. it's a built in indicator to change the lamp...
Maybe, this is because he has switched the lamp power from normal to eco and/or viceversa, then the 2000 hours limit will differ.

I've had a AE2000U for a few years now (great projector!), but tonight it started shutting itself off after just a few minutes of use. The lamp is at 2468 hours, and the "replace lamp" indicator has been on for a while now, so I guess it's trying to tell me something.

The thing is, before it shuts down, the picture quality is beautiful and bright -- same as the day I bought it. Is the lamp simply shutting off because the lamp hours counter is reaching some preset limit, or is the unit sensing a bad lamp somehow and proactively shutting it down?

Also, if anyone can recommend a good source for a replacement, I'd appreciate it (I can probably install it myself unless special tools are needed).

I think that the issue is if the lamp goes all the way to failure while in the projector the results can be "bad" what bad means I am not sure and this may simply be Panasonic's way of moving forward bulb sales however I could conceive that the bulb could implode/explode and get glass everywhere inside the projector.

I would be curious to hear any comments from those more knowledgeable.....

I think that the issue is if the lamp goes all the way to failure while in the projector the results can be "bad" what bad means I am not sure and this may simply be Panasonic's way of moving forward bulb sales however I could conceive that the bulb could implode/explode and get glass everywhere inside the projector.

That's my question exactly.

One more datapoint: I think I hear a faint very high frequency sound coming from the projector when I'm sitting under it. Maybe this is the bulb (ready to explode?)... or maybe just my ears (also ready to explode after too much loud music over the years). :)

I've had a AE2000U for a few years now (great projector!), but tonight it started shutting itself off after just a few minutes of use. The lamp is at 2468 hours, and the "replace lamp" indicator has been on for a while now, so I guess it's trying to tell me something.

The thing is, before it shuts down, the picture quality is beautiful and bright -- same as the day I bought it. Is the lamp simply shutting off because the lamp hours counter is reaching some preset limit, or is the unit sensing a bad lamp somehow and proactively shutting it down?

Also, if anyone can recommend a good source for a replacement, I'd appreciate it (I can probably install it myself unless special tools are needed).I got a bulb from this place at an attractive price: http://www.hovanfue.com/store/ :)

A question on 2.35:1 vs. 1.78:1... When I switch between 16:9 and zoomed 2.35:1, the image is centered for one or the other, not both. I didn't have this issue w/the AE3000. Maybe I did something to center both before, but don't recall. Any of you guys having this issue with your 2.35:1 screen setup?

jimsfield,

I didn't see a AE2000U bulb on their site. Is this what you purchased?

Can you share the % in price difference (landed cost) compared to what you found vs US supply?

jimsfield,

I didn't see a AE2000U bulb on their site. Is this what you purchased?

Can you share the % in price difference (landed cost) compared to what you found vs US supply?This is the part# I purchased: ET-LAE1000

I ended up getting a replacement from PurelandSupply -- free shipping if ordered through ebay (although my wife couldn't wait and did the overnight!). :-) Trivial to replace, and the new bulb has eliminated the high-pitched noise I was hearing.

Could someone tell me how would this PJ would compare to the HD20 in terms of brightness and PQ .. Thanks

Heard my bulb go pop last night...the sound of $300+...1st bulb to go bad in my 3rd projector EVER! all this at about 1600 hours?

Now shopping for a new one...

Heard my bulb go pop last night...the sound of $300+...1st bulb to go bad in my 3rd projector EVER! all this at about 1600 hours?

Now shopping for a new one...
Are you guys running your fan on high? My seller V.A. sugested bumping up the speed on the fan to extend the life of the bulb. At first i was reluctant being the extra noise and all, but now i don't even notice.

Are you guys running your fan on high? My seller V.A. sugested bumping up the speed on the fan to extend the life of the bulb. At first i was reluctant being the extra noise and all, but now i don't even notice.

I've owned 5 Panasonic PJs (L300, L500, AE900, AE2000 & AE3000). All were set on hi-fan and low-power lamp. Never a broken lamp (fingers crossing :o)

ok so anyone know WTF is going on here:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pHMyACQlqcs

it's a crappy quality vid I shot with my iPhone but you can pretty clearly see the issue. the green flickering bottom middle is what I'm looking at. is this a malfunctioning LCD?

anyone have any ideas?

Are you guys running your fan on high? My seller V.A. sugested bumping up the speed on the fan to extend the life of the bulb. At first i was reluctant being the extra noise and all, but now i don't even notice.

Thats a good suggestion...I do not prowl the forums as much as I should and probably did not run my fan on high, or clean the filter as I should...

Just ordered from PureLand Supply...was about to do the Japan Direct (Hovanfue) but PureLand is in my backyard and I might be able to just pick it up tomorrow...

I just got back from picking up my new bulb...the transaction with Pureland was smooth. They cancelled my shipping and refunded my card. The new bulb, while not an exact match in every detail, is close. I did remove the paper heat shield (bronze in color) from the old bulb and placed it over the new unit. The one other thing was a metal screen about 1" X .75" is not on the new unit, instead there is a plastic screen in the same location.

Where exactly is the Fan Setting?

Where exactly is the Fan Setting?

There is not an specific Fan Setting. To set the fan to high speed:
MENU --> OPTION --> ALTITUDE --> HIGH
I had the AE2000 and now the AE3000 set with Lamp Power = ECO and Altitude = HIGH.

I have had my my PT-AE2000 for nearly 2 years and have somehow racked up over 4500hrs on a single bulb! Please don't do the maths. :eek:

I have had to reset the lamp hours twice now and while the image is discernibly dimmer than on day 1, using the adjustments (Normal/Dynamic Pic Mode + Increase Gamma + Expanded HDMI range) I can get very acceptable results, especially in a dark room.

The fan has become more noticeable but given that my PC is louder and located near it it has not bothered me.

I would also like to add that the projector and bulb was shipped across the Atlantic at about 2000 hours, so in my experience this in a excellent projector/bulb combination. :)

Wow 4500hrs. Do you ever shut that thing off? I was thinking 1000hrs in one year was alot and I use the 2000 for basic broadcast every night.

I go back and look at normal, but never find it as clear as color1,cinama1.

It is used as a TV/Internet/Movie display so I guess it is on more than most peoples. I have left it on all day a couple of times and I sometimes forget to put it on Sleep so it stays on all night.

I have had a flickering issue for the last 1000 hours or so but it stops after about 30 mins. The brightness has dimmed to the point where I need to have brightness up to 30 and only normal/dynamic is enough, Color1/Cinema1 do provide a nicer RGB but its a little too dark unless the room is pitch black.

Heres hoping for another 1000 hours :)

That isn't too good of an idea. You don't want the bulb to blow up. The mercury is apparently much more deadly these days than when I was in Jr. High and our teacher let us roll balls of Mercury around in our hands. ;)
I would just get a new one and keep that old one for a spare.
Warren.

I agree treat yourself to a new bulb for the holliday. If your like me you won't want to have it out of service for even one day.

Besides you won the award for most hrs. on a single bulb!

Rob

I'm still on my first bulb and getting more hours (on "High" or "Normal" the entire time) than I have EVER gotten on a bulb in any projector (out of several). Almost 2000. Anyway, I do have that flipping back and forth every so often of the brightness. You guys probably call it "flicker" but the connotation of that is too fast. I've been ignoring it for quite a while. I was afraid of it from the beginning so I never have used the dynamic iris much. But I am so dumb, I bought the 4000 expecting they have finally addressed and remedied that problem. Hope the problem has been resolved.

I'm still on my first bulb and getting more hours (on "High" or "Normal" the entire time) than I have EVER gotten on a bulb in any projector (out of several). Almost 2000. Anyway, I do have that flipping back and forth every so often of the brightness. You guys probably call it "flicker" but the connotation of that is too fast. I've been ignoring it for quite a while. I was afraid of it from the beginning so I never have used the dynamic iris much. But I am so dumb, I bought the 4000 expecting they have finally addressed and remedied that problem. Hope the problem has been resolved.
I've had this issue crop up three times, basically every six months... and switching between Eco and Normal fixed it all three times. Someone explained the reasons to me once but I forget why. Something about current, temperature and the shape of the bulb...

When I first got the projector, I set it to Eco, switched to Normal about six months later, back to Eco about six after that and back to Normal again now.

And you're right... calling it flicker doesn't seem like an appropriate descriptor, since it's not a constant or repeating thing.

Thanks, DV, good tip. I'll give that a shot.

I've had this issue crop up three times, basically every six months... and switching between Eco and Normal fixed it all three times.

Thanks.. I am getting that "slow flicker" too so will try the eco flick.

About people suggesting I get a new bulb, I will be doing so in the new year but is it really true that it can blow up and spew mercury over me? :eek:

on the "slow flicker". the technical reason I have read has to do with the arc jumping around on the filament of the lamp. the problem being that once it starts doing this, the lamp has essentially been "programmed" to allow arcing to that point on the filament. ie, it will never completely go away. the 5 lamps I've had in my unit over a year and a half would seem to confirm this. the first 4 all started doing it anywhere from 700 to 1200 hours and never stopped. fingers crossed on #5 now.

I have had flicker on my old Benq 7700 and switching eco modes for a while permanently fixed it. It doesn't get permanently programmed. The other mode will wear the filament down differently erasing the "programming."

I really don't see how the bulb could blow up, and there isn't really that much mercury, but of course the fan is blowing heat from the bulb out into your theater. I really think that is an overstated fear. Still new bulbs are prettier.

In a few years we will all have laser projectors and laugh at how silly the old bulb projectors were. Kinda like when you switch your house over to cfl bulbs. The easy bake oven uses an incandesent bulb to bake cookies. So before cfl's you had dozens of ovens lighting up your house. Silly.

yeah, I don't mean literal programming, just that once the lower voltage starts to form a spot on the filament, no matter how long you run it, it will never "unburn" that spot. for some, it may mostly burn away, allowing you to keep using the lamp but that has not been my experience. my current lamp is on normal always now to avoid the problem caused by the lower voltage of eco mode.

I know what you meant, if you don't change the mode it won't go away. I am saying changing the power mode changes where the filament burns and will fix it for the other mode normally. Most people that do this have it fix both modes, including me.

yeah, I've resigned myself to being the exception that dis-proves the rule. i tried the fix for anywhere from 50 to 150 hours on the "alternate" mode to fix all my lamps and it never took on any of them.

In a few years we will all have laser projectors and laugh at how silly the old bulb projectors were.

I can't wait.

Oh, and I know what you are saying. I used to say "filament" too until I was corrected. These thing arc between electrodes and don't burn a filament between them. I could imagine how the arc might take the shortest path and hae a favorite spot, but why would that cause a flicker? And even it is jumping between two favorite spots, which would one of them be dimmer? It would have to be still between the electrodes but shorter? or outside the sweet spot for the parabolic mirror? I'm so confused.

is the dust blob problem more prevalent with panasonic because I don't see as many similar dust blob concerns with the likes if epson or Sanyo??

is the dust blob problem more prevalent with panasonic because I don't see as many similar dust blob concerns with the likes if epson or Sanyo??

I've never had a dust blob - my PT-AE2000 is a year and a half old, with about 900 hours on it.

I think the problem is largely environmental. I think I've avoided the problem because my ceiling is painted drywall, instead of acoustic paneling, which can shed dust. I also avoid doing anything in that room that might put particulate matter into the air - fortunately neither I nor any of my friends smoke.

In addition, I mounted my projector right-side up on a wireframe shelf, instead of upside-down. Inverted mounting might allow dust to enter the machine from its underside, but I kept it right-side up mainly because inverted mounting has been known to cause one or more of the color filters to slip out of position - you'll see lots of posts here about that, including how to fix them.

I've never had a dust blob - my PT-AE2000 is a year and a half old, with about 900 hours on it.

I think the problem is largely environmental. I think I've avoided the problem because my ceiling is painted drywall, instead of acoustic paneling, which can shed dust. I also avoid doing anything in that room that might put particulate matter into the air - fortunately neither I nor any of my friends smoke.

In addition, I mounted my projector right-side up on a wireframe shelf, instead of upside-down. Inverted mounting might allow dust to enter the machine from its underside, but I kept it right-side up mainly because inverted mounting has been known to cause one or more of the color filters to slip out of position - you'll see lots of posts here about that, including how to fix them.
On the other hand, mine had a dust blob out of the box.

On the other hand, mine had a dust blob out of the box.

Sorry to hear that - looking back at it, what I wrote feels a bit smug.

Sorry to hear that - looking back at it, what I wrote feels a bit smug.
No problem at all.

I'm moving in a few months and when I do, I think I'll finally try to do something about the dust blob. The mount I use was such a huge pain in the ass to get exactly square to the screen that I was unwilling to fix the dust blob problem for fear of trying to square it again.

I don't know if I'll send it in for service or try to do it myself. I suppose I should look up those parts of the thread dealing with dust blobs again and see what it's like.

No problem at all.

I'm moving in a few months and when I do, I think I'll finally try to do something about the dust blob. The mount I use was such a huge pain in the ass to get exactly square to the screen that I was unwilling to fix the dust blob problem for fear of trying to square it again.

I don't know if I'll send it in for service or try to do it myself. I suppose I should look up those parts of the thread dealing with dust blobs again and see what it's like.

When you set up in your new place, consider going the route I went - sitting the projector right-side up on a wireframe stand. They're commonly sold under the name of Metro shelving at hardware stores. Since they simply stand on the floor, there's no permanent mounting involved, and they take very little time to set up. (Mine straddles my equipment cabinet.)

Here's a link to my post in this forum about this, complete with photos:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=14444130#post14444130

When you set up in your new place, consider going the route I went - sitting the projector right-side up on a wireframe stand. They're commonly sold under the name of Metro shelving at hardware stores. Since they simply stand on the floor, there's no permanent mounting involved, and they take very little time to set up. (Mine straddles my equipment cabinet.)

Here's a link to my post in this forum about this, complete with photos:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=14444130#post14444130
I actually have to go that route - where I'll be moving, I can't ceiling mount. And yeah, I've actually seen your post before and that's exactly what I had in mind. :)

I actually have to go that route - where I'll be moving, I can't ceiling mount. And yeah, I've actually seen your post before and that's exactly what I had in mind. :)

Great! Maybe between us we'll start a trend.

Anyone else out there using this kind of projector mount?

I just put mine in a deep bookshelf. See my "I think I might hate my bat cave" thread.

Great! Maybe between us we'll start a trend.

Anyone else out there using this kind of projector mount?
Mine is shelf mounted close to the ceiling. I too had a dust blob earlie in it's life like 150hrs. Reading through the thread was priceless. One good blast of compressed air from the woodshop not only took care of the problem, but no blobs have returned. To my surprise even the filter has stayed clean.

Mine is shelf mounted close to the ceiling. I too had a dust blob earlie in it's life like 150hrs. Reading through the thread was priceless. One good blast of compressed air from the woodshop not only took care of the problem, but no blobs have returned. To my surprise even the filter has stayed clean.

I think I cleaned my filter twice in a year, and put 1800 hours on it. Bad. Got one blob I need to remove.

Mine is shelf mounted close to the ceiling. I too had a dust blob earlie in it's life like 150hrs. Reading through the thread was priceless. One good blast of compressed air from the woodshop not only took care of the problem, but no blobs have returned. To my surprise even the filter has stayed clean.
Did you follow this guide to get rid of the dust blob?
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=12501773#post12501773

I'm considering doing that instead of sending it in.

Did you follow this guide to get rid of the dust blob?
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=12501773#post12501773

I'm considering doing that instead of sending it in.
I used that guide twice with my blobs. Takes 10 minutes and is no big deal. I used compressed air from a can since the "pump" style didn't deliver enough force to get the blobs out. Just keep the can upright and do not shake it!

Did you follow this guide to get rid of the dust blob?
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=12501773#post12501773

I'm considering doing that instead of sending it in.
Yes I did follow the thread and or link you posted. I have to say blasting air through a slot did make me think of what might be dammaged or displaced however it worked like a charm. My Home Depo compressor is set to 100psi and the ruber chuck brings the pressure down a bit but your able to get right in there and be done.

I don't know if bumping the fan speed to high around this same time has prevented a future blob, but the theater and work shop are both In the basement a dusty place!

Did you follow this guide to get rid of the dust blob?
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=12501773#post12501773

I'm considering doing that instead of sending it in.
In addition to using my shop compressor which I figuered whoud have more volume and pressure than a can I did remove the air filter to allow the best chance for any and all dust to fly out. Good luck!

I bought a couple of those triangle shelf brackets to build a shelf for my 2000. My room was very dirty, since I had just been power sanding the drywall compound the day before, and the projector now has a thick layer of dust on it. I didn't clean the filter till I changed the bulb at ~2400 hours and that filter was completely caked in dust. Also I live in the desert in Arizona, so everything is dusty anyway. No dust blobs in the projector at all. You can't ask for them anymore than me. There may be something to mounting it right side up. Maybe it is just luck.
Warren.

Andy. What is the size of this stain? Do you see the problem at normal seating distance? A little failure on color uniformity is common to all LCD PJs.
What I'm seeing is more yellow than green.
Do you see it when projecting an all blue image? If so, it's now dark gray?
If you change the picture mode (i.e.: color1 -- normal -- dynamic -- etc) or also raise the brightness and/or contrast, the problem remains?
My final thought is that it could be that the blue polarizer (each LCD panel has one) is dirty (more than a blob) or bad (very rare) :(.

I believe I may have a case of a bad blue polarizer on my Pany AE2000U- see attached photos. It has been faithfully working for > 3000hrs. This just started, I have cleaned the light paths [no impact] - I have seen dust before and have successfully cleaned the light paths in the past however this is different; you can not focus this green/yellow blob and it is not a small glob; it's around a 1/3rd of the screen, dead center on the top [ceiling mounted], shows up dark grey/ black on the projector blue screen startup. - Problem remains regardless of brightness/contrast/normal/dynamic/normal or input used.

Can anyone confirm that this is the symptom of a bad polarizer? - Any chance it's bulb related? - mine has been running for over 3000hrs. I can order the part [Part# TEEC0050] and replace it however would like to get some reassurance prior to dropping the $104.95 on the part.

Ps: I have the service manual and can not find anything in it on how to tell if the issue is the polaizer.
Any help / suggestions would be welcomed,
Thanks,
Pat

This just started, I have cleaned the light paths [no impact]

If this just suddenly appeared out of nowhere, I'd suspect dust or other debris got into the polarizer assembly, or perhaps one of the panels fell out of alignment. You say you've cleaned the light path, but did you actually go all the way to removing the polarizer assembly and look through it? If there's something wrong with the panels that's causing a dark spot of this magnitude, I'd expect it to be visible to the naked eye.

Yup – confirmed it is a bad blue polarizer – burn marks match the green/yellow on the display (see photo)…

Just a few words of caution to others:

If you are going to disconnect the “A-P.C.” board (large top module – required to remove to obtain access to the polarizer’s)

• Be very careful when removing the three LCD ribbon cables; The white portion of the connectors flip up 90 degrees to release the ribbon cables; these are very brittle [I snapped one and now need to solder a replacement onto the A-P.C. module].

• Also take your time disconnecting all the connectors along the edges of the module as these are all pretty tight – need to just keep wiggling them back and forth while applying pressure to the edge of the connector NOT THE CABLE as this would most likely cause the wire to pull-out of the connector.

I have the new polarizer and connector ordered – kind of a PIA but a lot cheaper than springing for a new pj.

/Pat

PT-AE2000U suddenly displaying discolored circle in the upper middle covering 80% of the screen, circle appears green-yellow with normal content but appears gray on blue background (screen shot below, blue area appears normal, gray area is always discolored). Purchased new 2.5 years ago, 300 hours on second bulb. Any thoughts before I ship it off for repair? Is this common? Thanks!

http://home.comcast.net/%7Estuartchris/photos/projector_spot.jpg

PT-AE2000U suddenly displaying discolored circle in the upper middle covering 80% of the screen, circle appears green-yellow with normal content but appears gray on blue background (screen shot below, blue area appears normal, gray area is always discolored). Purchased new 2.5 years ago, 300 hours on second bulb. Any thoughts before I ship it off for repair? Is this common? Thanks!

cstuart
How suddenly?
Did you read post #3831?
Do you clean the filter every 100 hs?
You may have a big dust blob (if you can put the stain on focus by defocusing the image) or a burned polarizer (post #3833).

My AE2000 started making a whining sound last night (1800hrs on the lamp, and I have a backup lamp ready), which sounded to me like a clogged fan or somesuch -- so I took off the cover and blew some air around, put everything back, and watched a movie w/o whining sound. Then today went to use the projector and the whining returned -- took stuff off, and tried to get the cover off the fan that blows on the lamp, which is the area from which the noise seemed to be coming, and after taking out all apparently-relevant screws I couldn't get that cover off. Grrr. So I blew air around again, put everything back, and no noise -- but I suspect that this problem is going to recur. Anyone have experience, and I hope a solution:eek:?

My AE2000 started making a whining sound last night (1800hrs on the lamp, and I have a backup lamp ready), which sounded to me like a clogged fan or somesuch -- so I took off the cover and blew some air around, put everything back, and watched a movie w/o whining sound. Then today went to use the projector and the whining returned -- took stuff off, and tried to get the cover off the fan that blows on the lamp, which is the area from which the noise seemed to be coming, and after taking out all apparently-relevant screws I couldn't get that cover off. Grrr. So I blew air around again, put everything back, and no noise -- but I suspect that this problem is going to recur. Anyone have experience, and I hope a solution:eek:?
I'd bet there was one screew you missed. How did your filter look? Cleaned mine last night to my surprise very clean! Hope It works out for you. Might be changing the bulb and the fan.

Is the lamp shade (for lack of a better name) replaceable?
I broke mine in half when replacing the bulb.

I currently have my projector back for repairs for the 2nd time in less than 2 years for HDMI problems. The projector fails to recognize any HDMI input. Has anyone else experienced this with this projector? With other projectors?

This is my 5th projector, all for home use, and I have never had to send one back for servicing, but this one is gone for the second time. I gave an optoma to my brother which now has more than 2000 hours on one lamp. I have about 230 hours on this one, I'm still on my first lamp (of course), and it fails to recognize any HDMI input at all. It's lamp/menus and other inputs remain working.

Last year when this occurred, my PS3 simultaneously failed to put out any recognizable HDMI input. My PS3 would not feed HDMI into my panasonic projo or a flat-screen, and my panasonic projo would not accept any HDMI from the PS3 or another working bluray player. I assumed some short-circuit messed up the HDMI in both. This time, only the projector is not working. I probably use the PS3 with my flat screen more than with the projector so I don't THINK it is the PS3 causing the problem.

A year ago this happened just inside the warranty period and panasonic was kind enough to honor the warranty even after I was late contacting them. The projector has been great when it works. They never did indicate what the problem had been.

I don't know whether this is related, but the other problem I have had is apparent overheating with about 1.5 hour's use. It has done this repeatedly; the lamp just shuts off and won't restart until a cool-down period. I've cleaned the air filter and internals, and insured air circulation which is slightly limited by it's recessed placement.

I don't know whether this is a unique defect. It has resulted in me having no projector 10-20% of the time I've owned it, not including the overheating issue, for which I now take planned 15 minute "intermissions" with the projector off in the middle of every film. Judging from perusing and searching this forum, I am experiencing an unusual problem for this projector.

This is my first post, so please excuse or redirect me as needed. Sorry if this is long.

It's possible the two problems are related. Perhaps the heat problem is causing the HDMI problem.

I killed an old NAD receiver by mounting the Panny only an inch above it: the Panny was stealing the cool air the NAD needed for ventilation.

Shortly after I moved the Panny down that low, the NAD lost its left front channel output - the heat caused a solder joint to open up.

My recommendation is that when you get the projector back from repairs, get it out of the recess! I have mine mounted right-side up on a wire-frame shelf for lots of air circulation (read elsewhere on this forum about the problems caused by mounting the Panny upside-down: the color filters slip out of position.)

Check the manual for minimum distance from the back wall - give it several inches at least, since that's the air input to the cooling system (it vents out the front).

Side benefit is that you won't have to interrupt movies to let it cool down!

Hopefully if it's a heat problem that will be something they can tell me. I did put up a (nonobstructing) sheet of foil that gives a wide path of incoming cool air so the unit isn't recirculating hot exhaust. it is sitting on a solid shelf, though.

That's not something you want them to tell you, since they'd probably only say that in conjunction with saying that this was your fault and it'll cost you.

You didn't mention your fan setting. Visual Apex suggested I set the projector to HIGH altitude will double the fan speed. I also slid mine forward past the cutout to let the air circulate better. I also noticed the air comming out the front on a fortyfive degree angle!

Yes, I have always had the fan set high. I'm surprised if the overheat can come from HDMI components heating up that much. They have never felt particularly warm, but then I don't feel that one in the back of the projo either. I am told that the HDMI burnt out and as that is on the main board, reuires a >$500 repair. I also confirmed this was the second time the same thing has happened.

As I need to manually switch the HDMI cords on the back of my PS3 to switch from TV to projector, I wonder if a short circuit or grounding issue while doing that can mess up the HDMI. I also wonder whether by permanently installed HDMI cord to the projector could be the culprit.

I am buying a splitter (UltraAV 1x4 HDMI 1.3 Audio/Video Splitter) from Dcables and a new HDMI cord that will need to be 65 feet. So I will bypass all the cords and fumbling I have been doing, I hope. I didn't think the HDMI signal could be (legally) split and Dcable is not available by phone for several days but I ordered it based on description. This projector costs about $17/hour so far for the first 230 hours of use. I wish I didn't calculate that, it hurts.

You didn't mention your fan setting. Visual Apex suggested I set the projector to HIGH altitude will double the fan speed. I also slid mine forward past the cutout to let the air circulate better. I also noticed the air comming out the front on a fortyfive degree angle!

.... for which I now take planned 15 minute "intermissions" with the projector off in the middle of every film.


BTW... this is typically a bad idea. Every time the lamp is ignited, the initial "spark" that's required to initiate the arc/plasma - blasts off a minute amount of electrode material... permanently. (this material then adds to the "dark cloudy" look that begins to dim the lamp output, as well as add to the internal heating of the lamp... which will lead to the eventual total lamp failure)

In the large projectors that I maintain at work (a large church in KCMO), the manufacture gives a number to the effect of "every lamp strike effectively reduces the overall lamp life by 10-20 hours".

In other words, the amount of electrode material that's destroyed upon each and every lamp strike, would normally take 10-20 hours of lamp ON time to erode.

As the electrodes are blasted away, that effectively increases the gap distance between them, making it harder for the lamp igniter circuit to throw a hot enough voltage to create the initial spark, and thereby generate the plasma burn.

This is why I always instruct all staff members who borrow one of the loaner projectors at work... "If you need to set up the projector up-to 2 hours or so before your event begins, leave the projector ON until your event is over, as this will do less damage than turning it ON for just the few minutes it takes to set up." I do this at home as well... after my boys finish their movie, I ask them to leave it ON if I'm going to use it after they go to bed, 2-3 hours later. My current projector (a Studio Experience HD20) has served me VERY well for 7 years, with each lamp lasting WELL over the advertised hours.

(BTW... I'm cruising 'here' because I just bought a "needs repair" PT-AE2000 on eBay... praying/hoping it will be a simple repair!)

Arc lamps are finicky... I've been repairing/rebuilding video projectors ever since the Sharp XG-E650UB I had probably 14 years ago.

MERRY CHRISTMAS TO ALL, AND TO ALL A GOOD NIGHT! ;)

I not only run my PT-AE2000 on High Altitude for the faster fan, I also run it on Economy to run the bulb cooler, since I can neither see any difference in brightness nor hear any difference in fan noise. (My projector is about three feet behind and two feet higher than my head, mounted right-side up on a wireframe shelf.) The image it's throwing is 9 1/2 feet wide and beautifully bright, sharp, and colorful. I don't feel like I'm making any sort of compromise to prolong the bulb's life.

I also try not to turn it off and on too often - I use it only a few times a week for a few hours each time, during which it's on continuously.

I'm at around a thousand hours after about two and a half years, with no problems at all, and I'm hoping for many more years like this.

Turning the projector off for 15 minutes and back on is extra bad, because it takes much more energy to ignite a hot bulb. or something like that.

My Panasonic 2000 PJ hit 3000 hours yesterday and I had to reset the bulb timer. Everything seemed fine and the menu came up, but I could not access "Picture" on the top of the menu. I also noticed that there was no HDMI signal and no picture.

I shut the unit off and restarted it and while reading the manual it states that the PJ will wait 10 minutes before restarting. That section of the owners manual was not too clear about the 10 minute waiting time. After some time, the picture came to life from the cable box and I could access the picture setting in the main menu.

Was this just a normal part of resetting the timer?


The picture is still fantastic and I have upgraded my chairs to an L shaped set of Palliser power recliners to enjoy the PJ and a 40 " LCD on the side for Mon to Thursday viewing to save the bulb. I plan to watch this PJ till it dies or just sell it when the bulb finally goes for a few hundred and get a 1080P model. I find that my picture quality is more dependent on the quality of the HD broadcast. Blue Ray is stunnning.

I don't get your next-to-last sentence. The PT-AE2000U is a 1080P projector! The only reason I can see why you think otherwise is if you've been looking at the on-screen info while watching cable tv or a concert - both of which are typically 1080i. Put a good film-based Blu-ray and check that same screen and you'll see that it's 1080p.

Also, the menus let you lock the pj into 1080i mode, which might be what's going on. That's sometimes a good idea, if you're getting moire effects or jerky motion from 1080p.

I don't get your next-to-last sentence. The PT-AE2000U is a 1080P projector! The only reason I can see why you think otherwise is if you've been looking at the on-screen info while watching cable tv or a concert - both of which are typically 1080i. Put a good film-based Blu-ray and check that same screen and you'll see that it's 1080p.

Also, the menus let you lock the pj into 1080i mode, which might be what's going on. That's sometimes a good idea, if you're getting moire effects or jerky motion from 1080p.

You are absolutely correct and I hang my head low. My model is the AX200U, the 720 P model. I have had the PJ for 3 years and a always get the Panny models confused. When you look at the cover of the owners manual from across the room in dim light, I thought that the U was just a 0 and ended up here.

I will quietly mosey on to the AX 200 forum .

I had a "Replace Lamp" (or Replace Bulb") message show up last night whilst watching a movie. (Inception-what a waste of 3 hours!).
Message disappeared and movie carried on fine.

Today I switch projector on and the Lamp indicator light shines red alongside the normal Standby red light.

I switch on and the projector lamps starts to go but after about 5 seconds just switches itself off and the lamp light shines red again.

I realize now I should have reset the timer last night to get it back to zero.

Now I cannot even get the thing going so I can do this.

Is there any way of getting this going so I can then reset time?

The current brightness has been fine even though it has done nearly 2000 hours and I would like to get more life out of this bulb if possible.

Feels like the same situation as ink cartridges on some printers that say they are empty when there is still ink left.

Thanks in advance for any suggestions.

your behavior is different than mine. I started getting the "Replace Lamp" message the week before Christmas but I've been able to use it with the same bulb since then. I changed to eco mode and high alt. fan but have NOT replaces the bulb. I'm ~100 hours past the replace message and the lamp still works. The lamp light remains red all the time now. I plan on replacing the bulb when it gets to the point of only staying lit for 10 minutes. I read in the replacement instructions that the projector is supposed to give you 10 minutes of light so you can reset the lamp timer.

My AE2000 sometimes will not come on. The light goes from red to green, then back to red after 10-20 seconds (before the projector lamp comes on). Fan is set to high-altitude, lamp time has been re-set from ~1000 hours a couple of months ago -- but this happened before that. So far, I've been able to get it to come on, by either blowing out the filter, removing the lamp and blowing air around, or removing the cover and blowing air around (per this post (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=12501773#post12501773) --I haven't been able to get the cover off the fan itself -- any directions for that?), which makes things fine for a while, but it seems clear to me there's some blockage somewhere that I'm not clearing.

Once it comes on, it always plays fine -- it has never shut off during a movie.

Any ideas/help would be appreciated!

(And if this has been answered already , please just post the link -- I've searched but failed to find it!)

Thanks -- Monte

My AE2000 sometimes will not come on.

So far, I've been able to get it to come on, by either blowing out the filter, removing the lamp and blowing air around, or removing the cover and blowing air around (per

Once it comes on, it always plays fine -- it has never shut off during a movie.


I don't believe you're dealing with any kind of a blockage or the lamp would fire and then go out when the temperature protection circuits kick in. Likewise, with the few hours you noted, nothing is likely to be "blocked". By blowing air, I think you're just jarring something that restores the functionality. Personally, I would try a new bulb first to see if that fixes it (could be a lamp striking problem due to a bad bulb), but I would hold my breath since it sound's more like a fan or lamp power supply problem. Can you verify cooling fan air out both front exhaust ports when it's first fired up (when it fails to light) - failure would trip a safety switch and would prevent the lamp from coming on if one of the fan motors is dying. Replacing a fan motor is somewhat involved and best left for a service center. Likewise the power supply is a service call too.

Have you tried calling Panasonic tech support? They might have some suggestions.

My AE-2000 has been doing something funny for a few months now and I'm hoping that someone else has had this problem.

Basically, while watching something (doesn't really matter what) on occasion the projector will just show static. If I cycle the input selection, it will show the imagine just fine (static goes away). It's almost like it loses the "tune" on the signal and changing the input allows it to grab it again. I'm using HDMI inputs on it and have tried switching between 1, 2 and 3 and nothing changes it. Seems very odd to me.

Any ideas?

Thanks!

It sounds like your HDMI cable may the culprit. Try another cable.

It sounds like your HDMI cable may the culprit. Try another cable.

Well, I finally got to replacing the HDMI cable, and it hasn't made a difference. The projector worked in this exact same configuration for several years before it started happening.

It does sound like a HDMI handshake issue (static screen). Have you looked at the HDMI jack on your source equipment (going to the projector)? I had a similar issue and couldn't figure it out until I looked in the HDMI jack with a flashlight of my AV Amp and noticed that I had bent one of the contacts on that middle strip and was making intermittent contact - when it touched, the picture was fine, when it wasn't all I got was static (after I tried every HDMI input on the projector!).

Good luck...

Did you try a different HDMI input in addition to that other stuff?? Meaning the one on the projector.

Need some help from u guys and gals. I have a 2000 and the blue polarizer glass panel is shot for sure I'm guessing cause took it apart as it had a yellow mark on the picture. I hope I am looking at the right part looks like window glass. When I removed it for sure it had a round mark on it that looked like what I was seeing on the screen. Cleaned it and the mark disappeared but what I am asking is once that mark is burned in can it appear u cleaned it but no matter what its burned. Put it back in and nothing changed on the picture so guessing that's the case. Think all 3 of the glass panels are bad, is there anyone who knows where the best place to buy those glass panels are sold for the best price. I am gonna take a chance and replace the blue one, if that works will replace the other 2, hate to put to much money in it but might take a chance. Any suggestions would be helpful.

Need some help from u guys and gals. I have a 2000 and the blue polarizer glass panel is shot for sure I'm guessing cause took it apart as it had a yellow mark on the picture. I hope I am looking at the right part looks like window glass. When I removed it for sure it had a round mark on it that looked like what I was seeing on the screen. Cleaned it and the mark disappeared but what I am asking is once that mark is burned in can it appear u cleaned it but no matter what its burned. Put it back in and nothing changed on the picture so guessing that's the case. Think all 3 of the glass panels are bad, is there anyone who knows where the best place to buy those glass panels are sold for the best price. I am gonna take a chance and replace the blue one, if that works will replace the other 2, hate to put to much money in it but might take a chance. Any suggestions would be helpful.

Hi Brianbes
I would try to change the blue polarizer too.
I have the Service Manual if you want it, send me a PM with your email.

Hey Huecodoc funny coincidence. I have had no problems with my 2000 since I have bought it new and do not overly use it. I tried to watch movie through my ps3 last night and the projector does not recognize any of the hdmi ports...they just blink on the blue screen.

It cant be the ps3 cause when I disconnect monitor hdmi from back of receiver than I can hear the sound from the ps3 that the dvd is loaded and playing. Where did you have to send it? I am past warranty and not looking forward to taking this beast down from the ceiling to have it looked at..really frustrating!!

I even called a couple of Panasonic repair places and they say there has been no issues with HDMI ports on the 2000 and one said "no way" its the ports of the Panni he says its my cable or receiver....I have infrared HDMI secured through rafters that have light indicators at both ends the illuminate that say the signal is good.

I had that happen, turned out my hdmi cable had went bad. It was a beast of a cable too. I would plug some other device into the projector with a seperate cord before assuming it is the projector. Especially with funky infrared stuff inbetween. I wouldn't trust that light at all.

Can anyone tell me their experience of changing to a new lamp?
Does the new lamp seem much brighter.
The reason I ask is because I have just purchased a used PTAE2000 that has 1800 hours on it partly run on eco and part on normal.
It doesn't look as bright (less pop) as my Optoma HD70 that I am replacing it with.
Will I see much difference if I purchase a new lamp.

Thanks

yes, a new lamp is a big difference. The ae2000 is not very bright in best mode, but brighter modes have pretty good color. I opted instead for a higher gain screen. A Vutec Silverstar.

Hey everyone, sorry for digging up such an old post but I didn't want to start a new one!

I recently got a defective AE2000 projector which showed a strange blue-to-yellow gradient from bottom to top. After opening the device I quickly found the cause for this: A burnt polarizing plate in the blue channel.

Click for image, quite big (http://i.imgur.com/Ck3w5.jpg)

I already ordered a new one via eBay ($99 for a supposedly original new one) and hope that it will survive shipping to Germany.. The thing I am not sure is if the second plate, the one which is right next to the polarizer, caught any damage, too. According to the Service Manual, that plate is the Phase Difference Plate. While I understand what the polarizing plate does I have absolutely no idea what the phase difference plate is for. There seems to be some residue on the side facing the polarizer but I am not sure if this is just burn residue caused by the polarizing plate or if something boiled on the phase difference plate. Is there any way to check if this plate still is okay? And could anyone tell me what it is for exactly?

Thanks a lot in advance!
Mathis

Hi all,

I wonder if you could give me some advice about a PT-AE2000U I received today from an eBay seller.

I believe it has a color uniformity issue. When viewing what should be an all-white image, the upper-middle part of the image is roughly white, but that gradually gives way to a very distinct pale blue towards the lower left and lower right corners. I shot the attached image with my Nikon D5100 with white balance set to "Cloudy," 29mm, 1/160 second, F/6.3, ISO 3200. I just resized it for posting--no enhancement of any kind. The image is projected onto my living room wall, which is painted a flat, slightly warm, slightly-off-white ("casual white"), and which has served very well as a screen for my Optoma HD66 for the last couple of years. Color uniformity has always seemed to be perfect with the HD66.

Is the non-uniformity I'm seeing with the PT-AE2000U normal? Could it be caused by an aging or cheap lamp (it has something like 870 hours on it)? Should I ask the seller to let me return the projector?

Thanks for any thoughts,
Andy

Hi all,

I wonder if you could give me some advice about a PT-AE2000U I received today from an eBay seller.

I believe it has a color uniformity issue. When viewing what should be an all-white image, the upper-middle part of the image is roughly white, but that gradually gives way to a very distinct pale blue towards the lower left and lower right corners. I shot the attached image with my Nikon D5100 with white balance set to "Cloudy," 29mm, 1/160 second, F/6.3, ISO 3200. I just resized it for posting--no enhancement of any kind. The image is projected onto my living room wall, which is painted a flat, slightly warm, slightly-off-white ("casual white"), and which has served very well as a screen for my Optoma HD66 for the last couple of years. Color uniformity has always seemed to be perfect with the HD66.

Is the non-uniformity I'm seeing with the PT-AE2000U normal? Could it be caused by an aging or cheap lamp (it has something like 870 hours on it)? Should I ask the seller to let me return the projector?

Thanks for any thoughts,
Andy

no, that is not normal. i doubt it is the lamp. if it was advertised as working perfectly then i would send it back.

Sounds like a burnt Polarizer.

Hi all,
...it has something like 870 hours on it...

Hi Andy
870 hs seem too little for a burnt polarizer, but the meter could have been reseted.
The REAL total hours can be seen in the hidden Service Menu = Extended Option Menu.
To enter the Ext Option:
1. When the projector is power ON, press "POWER" button on the main unit or remote control unit to display "POWER OFF" confirmation screen.
2. Press the right-arrow button to select "CANCEL" in the "POWER OFF" confirmation screen.
3. On the main unit or remote control unit, press the buttons in order of up-arrow, down-arrow, up-arrow, down-arrow and "ENTER".
(When the "ENTER" button is pressed, "EXT OPTION" menu is displayed.)
Select the "Self Check" sub-menu and see the Total Lamp hours.

Hi Andy
870 hs seem too little for a burnt polarizer, but the meter could have been reseted.
The REAL total hours can be seen in the hidden Service Menu = Extended Option Menu.

Thank you all! Sorry to be slow in acknowledging your help--thought I was subscribed to get emails but wasn't. I went into the self-check screen as you suggested and a picture of the resulting data is attached. Looks like total hours is 3358, and reset is 2. Does that mean it's on its third lamp?

The seller insists it's just a calibration issue. Anyone care to weigh in on that opinion?

Thanks again,
Andy

... total hours is 3358, and reset is 2. Does that mean it's on its third lamp?

By the way, the eBay listing made it clear that the 870 hour figure referred to the lamp. No figure was given for the total hours on the projector. The seller did, however, claim the projector was in "excellent working condition."

Andy

Andy, Im pretty sure this thread has mentioned your problem before. Heat is the enemy of all electronics. Bulb time seems to vary from one owner to another,but polorizers are effected by heat. I reset my lamp at 1997 hrs and have another 1100 on the original bulb! Why everybody is thinking? The picture looks good! I only have some small misconvergence on the left side that was there when it was new. My fan has been running on high from day one and never even noticed the increased sound for more than 3 mins. Rob

just got a used ae2000 off ebay... its my first projector... so to me its great!

but has 2015 total hours usage and still on its first bulb... is that heavy use?

the red lamp lights on... but starts up and runs ok without turning off

i don't have the cash to buy a new lamp just yet... but still want to use it

if the bulb blows does all the broken glass and mercury remain within the lamp housing?

what is the average life in total of these projectors?

and setting the fan to max power through the service menu help longevity?

thanks

I have ran mine like up to 3800 hours on one bulb. Never heard of a bulb blowing up. They just get dimmer and dimmer. I did have to reset the bulb hours to get it to be happy.

just got a used ae2000 off ebay... its my first projector... so to me its great!
but has 2015 total hours usage and still on its first bulb... is that heavy use?

Congratulations on your purchase. Enjoy! Mine's still going strong after four years and only two replacement bulbs.

The risk of a bulb blowing supposedly goes up as it ages, but I've never seen stats about how many catastrophically fail versus just going out. I replaced my first bulb after the recommend time period, but kept my second one through two resets -- more than 4000 hours. I agree with other poster, it is much more likely to get too dim over time than to fully fail. At 2000 hours, it's definitely worth the tiny risk to keep it going and save money IMHO.

the red lamp lights on... but starts up and runs ok without turning off
You can go into the service menu and reset the hours. That will keep the red light off and avoid a startup delay that happens at some number of hours (2500?). See the manual for how to do it, I don't have the manual with me.

ok thanks for the information

wow 4000+ on one bulb... how is the picture quality compared to new lamp?

i guess there pretty well made...

and seems little risk of the lamp bulb bursting!

is a brand new oem panasonic lamp much brighter than one with 2000+ hours on it?

thanks

wow 4000+ on one bulb... how is the picture quality compared to new lamp?

is a brand new oem panasonic lamp much brighter than one with 2000+ hours on it?

I'm not recommending letting it run for 4000 hours, just that it was my experience. YMMV and all that. The reason I replaced it was that I was having a Super Bowl party so I didn't want it to go out in the middle of the game. Yes, a new bulb is visibly brighter. The brightness goes down quickly at first, then gets dimmer more slowly. So for the 4000 hr bulb, after the first 500 hours or so, it got dimmer so slowly that I didn't notice a big change -- till I replaced it! I guess a purist may have noticed variations across the screen in brightness or color, but I didn't. Anyway, the point is you can let the bulb go for a while, but it's a risk, and your tolerance for it getting dimmer is personal taste. Good luck.