I have a couple of set up questions for an XG 135.

I had the green tube replaced and am finishing up the set up. I am attaching a couple of pics showing a problem I think I have getting the red set up correctly. I am not an experienced expert, so forgive me if I am asking really stupid questions.

I know the convergence is not correct, but there seems to be a problem with the red.

If I go to astig and look at the red tube I get a slash rather than a dot. The first rather poof picture attempts to show what I am talking about. I can adjust he astig but I really can’t alter the shape of the slash. Green and blue look OK.

When just showing a dot test pattern, you can compare the red dot with the blue dot. The blue is truly a dot and the red is not.

Is this a problem and what steps can I take to fix it?

Set all of the astig controls and focus adjustments to 0. If you still have a slash rather than a dot, then your astig rings on the red tube are off.

The XG sets have 9 zones of electronic astigmatism adjustment. The edges and corners of course will have less adjustment than the center. Are you sure you are adjusting the Red and not another color? I see that you have the Red CRT on but make sure you have hit CTRL R on the remote so that you are controlling the Red tube. You should see a dot core and then the flared oval around that. You should be able to make the ovals more round and center the core inside that. It looks like it has really been played around with to be that stretched out while the other tubes are not. You might check Curt's site for the guide on the XG if you don't have it already.

dropzone 7, good call. But yes I am adjusting the correct tub.

Curt, looks like I will have to give the rings a shot. Was hoping it was something simple. I know all you guys that are familiar with these that adjusting the rings is nothing big, but the last time I messed with them a few years ago it seemed like it is easy to really mess things up.

See the bottom of this link. http://www.curtpalme.com/CRT_Tube_Replacement.shtm
Use high contrast to see the core better. Doug

Thanks Doug.

Excellent suggestion on higher contrast to do the adjustment. Any hints on getting convergence done?

I looked at some of the other links on Curt's site. Some very helpful information there.

Thanks Doug.

Excellent suggestion on higher contrast to do the adjustment. Any hints on getting convergence done?

I looked at some of the other links on Curt's site. Some very helpful information there.

These two links have been helpful to me as well as all of Curt's documents on the PG and XG.

http://www.moesrealm.com/hometheater/crt-focus-guide.html

http://www.keohi.com/KeohiHDTV/brandspecific/nec/xg135_calibration.html

Convergence is something you get better at after you learn what each function does.

Some hints when your starting is to not start with point corrections. You would want to normalize each colors point corrections then try to forget there is point.

Do mechanical at the highest freq you will be running.

Build geometry from the cross-hair test pattern out. If that isn't right the rest wont be right.

Check using the Avia test patterns or from a external source.

Start with green and don't go to the next color until its the best you can do (after the raster centering align)

Don't do alot of ramping of the drive amps so they don't overheat (short sessions) letting them cool and stabilize.

Pretty general but way to much to go over, the XG has many functions that need to be used and learned. Do a lot of reading. Doug

Thanks again. Terry F. did the original setup. I am trying to mess with as little as possible to keep his excellent work.

With a nice Thanksgiving break coming up, I will get some time to try all ya'lls suggestions.

Thanks again. Terry F. did the original setup. I am trying to mess with as little as possible to keep his excellent work.

With a nice Thanksgiving break coming up, I will get some time to try all ya'lls suggestions.

I have an XG110 and I just normalized and zeroed out everything last night. I plan to spend the next few days trying to get it looking better. I have dark fabric up on my walls now and the screen is permanently mounted so I'm hoping my setup will get better this go around. As Doug mentioned, be sure to normalize point if you are going to do any convergence at all. I have yet to use any point on my XG. I don't want to rely on it until I absolutely have to.

How do you normalize point? I suspect it is in the manual somewhere, but have not seen that documented.

How do you normalize point? I suspect it is in the manual somewhere, but have not seen that documented.

You may have to be in the service menu area where a password is required. I believe its the same for most XG's which is (3151). Then hit the "convergence" button on the remote. Then scroll down to "RGB Point". Select this and then hit the "Normal" button on your remote. You should get a message that asks you to confirm that you are normalizing point. Hit "yes" and enter. I believe that's how I did it last night but it's hard to say without having the remote in front of me. :o You may also be able to hit the "Point" button on your remote if it has one (some do and some don't I think). After that hit the "Normal" button and confirm the change. You should normalize point before doing any new convergence adjustments. Otherwise, if you have trouble getting something right then it may be because you are fighting some saved point convergence. From what Doug and others tell me, it should be saved for the most minor of touch ups after a good mechanical and electronic setup have been completed. When I had a PG I used a lot of point because it was just so difficult to converge the projector using the magnets. With the XG we have electronic raster and astigmatism adjustments so it's much easier to get a good base convergence before resorting to any point convergence.

Thanks DZ...

Normalizing a point in nec is a simple and basic procedure. If you already don't know that you really should read the manual at least one more time before proceeding with the rest of your set up.

I have worked through the adjustment of the 4 pole magnet and have round dot patterns. The center looks good, but the RHS still has a bit of flare to one side.

I am unsure about the 6 pole and the 2 pole magnets. The 2 pole magnets just seem to move the pattern around and the 6 pole does not do much of anything. Is that because I don't have a triangular shape.

Caspian,

You are right about needing to read the manual again. Because I have not seen where it says to normalize point, either for the R,G,B Point or the Convergence Point. Obviously I am missing something.

When I go to Adjust, Alignment, RGB Point, I only get 3 options and normal is not one of them. Under Adjust, Convergence, Point, I only get 3 choices Coarse, Medium, Fine.

Normal is a button on the remote (on the bottom). Go to RGB point, and press the "normal" button for each color.

The 2 pole magnets center the "core" within the "flare". You need to set this correctly with the electronic focus set to -90%. The 6 pole magnets correct for any triangularness of the dots. See this image from Curt's site:

http://www.curtpalme.com/images/CRTReplace2.jpg

Thanks, Jeff for the info on Normal.

Yep, I am using the figure you show. WIth the lights off I did not realize you go from +100 to -90 for the 2 pole adjustment. Thanks.

You should also turn contrast to 100 for the 2 pole, or else it's hard to see the core.