OK Im having a tough time trying to fig out how to hang my projector from ceiling. I have a sloped ceiling and bought chief mounting hardware..First of all I swear the adjustable 12-18" extension piece weighs more than the projector. I bought a 20x20 3/4 inch thick piece of wood at home depot. Do I paint board color of ceiling and use 4inch lag bolts to secure board to trusses than mount the 4 bolt X shaped ceiling mount in the center of wood piece OR 2. If I place board above ceiling will that be enough surface area to displace the weight or will it come crashing down through the ceiling????

Anyone have any suggestions I really do appreciate the advice.

thanks

If you have access to the area above the ceiling you can install some 2x6 or so blocking between the ceiling trusses. Then use the lag bolts to install the bracket through the drywall into the blocking.

OK Im having a tough time trying to fig out how to hang my projector from ceiling. I have a sloped ceiling and bought chief mounting hardware..First of all I swear the adjustable 12-18" extension piece weighs more than the projector. I bought a 20x20 3/4 inch thick piece of wood at home depot. Do I paint board color of ceiling and use 4inch lag bolts to secure board to trusses than mount the 4 bolt X shaped ceiling mount in the center of wood piece OR 2. If I place board above ceiling will that be enough surface area to displace the weight or will it come crashing down through the ceiling????

Anyone have any suggestions I really do appreciate the advice.

thanks

You didnt mention "studs"...Are there none in the sloped ceiling??

yeah, you need to bolt into at least one set of studs, or you may run into problems!

Obviously you can attach the plywood to the ceiling trusses and then the projector mount to the plywood or you could could just bolt the mount to a truss. Either way. You can elimiate some weight by buying a dedicated piece of 1 1/2 NT threaded pipe from home dDepot. Really cheap This pipe is called a pipe nipple (threaded at both ends) and is available black anodized in lenghts up to 1 ft or so. Use a pipe coupler and two pieces to give you the exact length you need. Nipple costs for everything shouldn't exceed $10, probably closer to $3 to $8.

Ok getting to spot up in ceiling may be tough, its tight and theres 3 feet of dam insulation to wade through....My studs or frame that the dry wall is hung to is 24 inches from center to center of stud... SO if I put a 22.5 inch long 2x6 between it and use (4) 4" long 1/4 lag screws to secure 2x6 to the frame is that going to hold????

Other wise I will have to go with the more visually unappealing 24x24 board screwed directly into studs and paint it ....not that a projector hanging down in the middle of my great room is any less appealing.

thaNKS for your thoughts, just trying to save 500 bucks the theater place wants to charge me.

....My studs or frame that the dry wall is hung to is 24 inches from center to center of stud... SO if I put a 22.5 inch long 2x6 between it and use (4) 4" long 1/4 lag screws to secure 2x6 to the frame is that going to hold????

.

24" between studs is unusual. Typical code is 16" on center. Your described plan should work fine however.

24" between studs is unusual. Typical code is 16" on center. Your described plan should work fine however.

Code must be different in Az...or I didnt dig deep enough into insulation....I have yet to make it to where I need to place 2x6. Just measured around inside of where I can get up into attic...

I think you will be fine with what you propose. Projectors are far more civilized these days - no more 200lb. CRT behemoths (or at least, not many).

So assuming I can find two studs somewhere near the center point of the ceiling (my old crt projector mount will give an indication but it's way too far forward to use the same holes) do these Chief mounts (I'm to use the RPA-106 for my new refurb'd Samsung H710AE I bought as a temp solution....great PQ BTW) have enough lateral adjustments to account for the fact that the lens is not centered on the projector?

I don't know if this will help, but after starting with my Black Pearl on a shelf, I ended up mounting it upside down in approximately the same location.

I used a small triangular piece of 3/4 inch hardwood plywood. In between the plywood and the projector, I have three 5/8 inch rubber bushings. The metric bolts going through the plywood and the bushings have washers on their heads to displace some of the weight.

I actually used a mount from an old dish network satellite dish to connect to the plywood. Two carriage bolts go up from the bottom of the plywood through the dish bracket. I did that because the dish bracket can be adjusted every which way. I have some wing nuts on the bolts so I can adjust.

The pole section, cut for length goes through a circular hole in the ceilingthe same size as the pole. This is because my preferred mounting location is between ceiling joists. I attached the bracket to hold the pole on a two by six piece about 30 inches long and bolted that to the pole before lag bolting the 2 x 6 to the top of the ceiling joists.

Of course this only works if you have a spare satellite dish and you have an unfinished attic upstairs and not a living area.

I hope it helps. It'd be a little nerve wracking to think the projector could come crashing down.

Thanks for advice guys. I was able to snake through the ceiling and place a 2x6 between studs in ceiling. I cut the piece so that I had to use a hammer to pound it down in between studs to dry wall. Placed 2 4" lag bolts on each side along with a 4 1/2 inch nail also. It seems secure. I wont be sitting directly underneath it of a while. Not sure what total weight of proj and mount is but is cant be more the75-100 lbs id think. Also for the amt the theater guys wanted to charge me I can put towards a good blu ray player now.

Ceilings could be 24" center, though less common, if there is no floor above (which there wouldn't be for a sloped ceiling) then it is possible.

1. If there is attic access, use 2x6 (or 2x8) to span the distance between 2 ceiling joists.
2. If none, you can grab the nearest joist and mount to that, of course assuming that you'll be near center. If you are slightly off center, you can purchase the LSB100 which shifts the projector on the bracket side to side about 5" either direction.
3. If you are too far off for the LSB100 to work, then you can either A. span it with a board that is painted to the ceiling color (not as attractive), or B. get the plate from Chief that spans the 2 joists (I cannot remember the model). The only downside is that centers the mount between the joists (so you still may need the LSB100) and only works on 16" center studs.

As a side note...if this is a sloped ceiling, you probably bought the CMA-395 angled ceiling adaptor?