Hello, another lurker reporting in with an AVS inspired build. (Damn I knew I should have stayed away form this place.) I am doing a basement build in a height challenged space.
I have concrete walls on 3 sides and it looks like I will end up with a 19' 7" long : 13' 4" wide and 7' .5" high. (I ran the numbers)

For isolation….
I'm doing double 5/8 dry wall on the ceiling with clips and GG.
The one wall that won't be on concrete I do plan to double dry it, GG , and isolate it.
But here are the questions.

Since I have concrete on three sides, do I need double dry on those sides? What's the point? Also, can I just isolate those walls and bolt them directly to the concrete without worrying about sound clips? (just keep them isolated from the overhead joists)



Any advice would be appreciated..

Gosh

PS..

I already have the sound gear.
Will be doing a 7.1 rig using 1 Bryston 9bst
2 Bryston powerpacks 250 ST (on the fronts.)
Bryston Sp 7.1
Totem Winds for the fronts (kind of wanted a strong musical quality to the theater)
Paradign servo sub (15)
Paradigm ADP dipoles for the sides.
Still open on center and rear. (center will likly be another totem)

Also, can I just isolate those walls and bolt them directly to the concrete without worrying about sound clips?
Any advice would be appreciated..


If sound containment is a critical element of your design plan, use RSIC 04 clips for the top plate of your wall. Concrete is actually an excellent transmitter of mechanical sound energy. Ever been in a building when they are jack hammering some place in the structure? You can here it everywhere.

Since I have concrete on three sides, do I need double dry on those sides? What's the point?


Welcome to the madness.

Yes, you need to treat those wall as if you don't you will have flanking paths thru them. I was in exactly same position. Ended up do DD+ 50% GG on those walls.

Cheers,
Mark

I am doing a basement build in a height challenged space.

Just checking to make sure you know the way to use clips without wasting any headroom. Mount the clips such that they support the hat channel running parallel to the existing ceiling joists only hanging down a 1/2 inch from the bottom of the joists.

http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh293/Goshwin/Basementoptios2.jpgJust checking to make sure you know the way to use clips without wasting any headroom. Mount the clips such that they support the hat channel running parallel to the existing ceiling joists only hanging down a 1/2 inch from the bottom of the joists.

Yep, saw some great builds that save alot of space.
I figure I can take a 7' 3" to the joist and make a 7' .5 room that includes dricore.. (if I need it)

But here is the real challange. . I’m struggling with the basic shell of the room and its dimensions. Here’s my problem, I have this much space.

http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh293/Goshwin/Basementopen.jpg


The area around the laundry is a no go, high ceiling but lots of technical issues and overhead plumbing which makes a drop ceiling a requirement. (Me no like)
So I ended up with using the back of the basement with two options.

Option one. 19’ 7” X 13’ 4” (Room mode analysis says this works)


http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh293/Goshwin/Basementoptios1.jpg


Simpler to build, nice double doors, small soffit needed to bury beam but I can make that a nice LED light track and hide some venting in it.

However wall space might be a bit tight for a large screen and still house my tower speakers (Totem winds).

Ok, lets look at option 2 (go wide or go home) 19’ 7” X 15’ 2” (Room modes also looks ok here)

http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh293/Goshwin/Basementoptios2.jpg

Nice and wide, but no pretty double doors (damn that furnace filter) and it has very large soffits (urgh, not so sure about this)

I think this boils down to screen size. If a good screen can fit in the smaller room, this might be the better option. But wider rooms are tempting. (But the big low soffit?)

WHo here has done 13 foot wide rooms here? How big a screen can get in them and still house a high end set of towers?

Opinions? Anyone? Beuller?

Gosh

(how do you insert images? humm)


Get an account (free) at photobucket and then it becomes easy to insert the pictures into your post. You will get a lot more interest and commentary by posting the pictures in the thread instead of linking.


However wall space might be a bit tight for a large screen and still house my tower speakers (Totem winds).


WHo here has done 13 foot wide rooms here? How big a screen can get in them and still house a high end set of towers?

Opinions? Anyone? Beuller?

Gosh

You *could* do a 13ft wide screen in a 13 ft wide room if you could sacrifice a small amount of length and do a AT screen. One of my options is a room that is around 11ft wide with a 10ft wide scope CIH screen.

See the link in my sig to insert images.

Welcome to the insanity.

Woo hoo, see edit.

(I am the link master!) :rolleyes:

Gosh

Good job linking! ;)

And welcome to the 7' ceiling club. I'm in the middle of dealing with the ceiling height issue and took a ton of photos of the process. Feel free to poke me if you have any questions.

I would go with option 2 - no double doors. You only need to go through a door and close it behind you. It's like having double doors for a bathroom. Makes no sense. Plus it adds complications with sound isolation.

The only time I see value in a double door set up is when the door connects to an entertainment area that would be used during non-movie (sports) gatherings. That's not the case in your build.

If your furnace filter is causing construction issues, consider having the return air duct modified and re-orient the filter. Should not be too expensive to do, and you can use the opportunity to re-work the filter holder so you can use 4" thick filters, electrostatic, or whatever.

Double doors are problematic for sound containment.

Goshwin: sending you PM

Gosh,
I agree with Cathan that the double doors are problematic. Also as far as room width goes my room ended up being about 12'3" after drywall. My screen is 105" diagonal, and could of been bigger if I had located my PJ back further within the room. So you certainly can get a pretty big screen in that room. Are you considering hiding the towers behind a false wall/AT screen? That would allow you to go even bigger. Also, you first row could be even closer to the screen if necessary. I know a lot of the calculators say so and so about viewing distance, but from reading tons on this forum many people end up closer than the "recommended" distance...and like it. Another thing to consider at this point is do you want 16x9 or 2.35x1. I contemplated this topic way too far into my build and once again because of PJ location, my options were limited.

Overall, I like the 3rd plan in the post above. Also, don't forget you will need a louvered door for that furnace room...the whole combustible air thing. Good luck with the project.

Overall, I like the 3rd plan in the post above. Also, don't forget you will need a louvered door for that furnace room...the whole combustible air thing. Good luck with the project.


Yeah, going to vent out the wall over the dryer.

After thinking on it..
Going wide seems like the thing to do, that would allow any option I might want with lots of extra space to add things.

Thing is, what kind of projector I should consider.
I have had suggestions like the JVC RS1. (thanks Ted, more ideas the better)

And as for screen, perhaps I should go wider than 16:9, got the space, why not?

Gosh.

For those who might be wondering, and I know you are, I got moving on this build. Still "preparing the battle field" tho, no walls up yet.

Been stuffing Linacoustics in everything, and squeezing more space from around the HVAC.

Check out how I save 8 inches from the back of my room.

http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh293/Goshwin/IMG_0417.jpg

Can't squeeze the wall with this damn thing int he way. HVAC guys said this configuration was a waste considering the air flow direction. So, out is comes and we get this.
http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh293/Goshwin/IMG_0428.jpg

Even chopped out a few inched from the bend going into the return. (Didn't take a before pic, but here is the after the removal of 4 inches.)

http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh293/Goshwin/IMG_0416.jpg
I'll stop boring you now, that is all.

Gosh... :D

Humm, here is a question for the group.

I am trying to figure out how to attach my wall, the one that goes under the ducts.
Should I connect to the beam? (Using isolation clips)

Would that impact my isolation? :confused:

Gosh

You want to use clips for all connections from your theater walls to the main house structure. Use about 1 RSIC-4 for every 2-3 feet of wall plus at each end.

You want to use clips for all connections from your theater walls to the main house structure. Use about 1 RSIC-4 for every 2-3 feet of wall plus at each end.

Ok, but I was wondering if I should attach at all. I noticed that the beam will vibrate around 60 hz if you thump it. Having a wall attached to it, even with clips, might encourage allot of vibration.

Perhaps I should try loading the wall with mass?
Sand fill perhaps?

Gosh :rolleyes:

For structural soundness you will likely need to attach the top of your walls to something. The only way I can think of you not doing that for the entire room is if you also use floating joists. That way the joists provide lateral bracing so the walls don't fall over. As for clipping to the beam, I have a couple of photos where I show how I did it. Mostly I attached wood into the I part of the beam and attached the clip to that. If you use construction adhesive and bolt or nail the wood to the beam, it will be plenty sturdy.

I do have one corner of my build (it's right below the recent duct photos I posted) where the wall is not attached to the ceiling joists. But because I have several walls T'ing into the theater wall it has plenty of support.

Todays mission. MORE LINACOUSTICS !!

Damn is scares me when I rip things apart... And hope I can get it back together before the house freezes.

http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh293/Goshwin/IMG_0430.jpg

Yep, that is the main duct unzipped from one end to the other with linacoustics half way installed. I am reminded of another member's quote. "Honey, I broke the house"

Gosh

Only counts as broken if you can't fix it. ;)

What are the strap hangers for?

Oh those... hehe.. ummm v1.0 of my wall support. :o
Before I joined AVS and learned about the isolation clips, I had a series of cross members hanging from those straps and linking with the steel beam on the left side of the photo. I already had installed a 2X4 bolted through the beam to allow connecting of things like joist hangers that linked up the the cross members that were hanging off those straps.

It was really strong, but transmitted vibration like a megaphone. Oops.

Looks like I'll be doing the clips on the I beam and the other end only attatched to the wall top plate.

Gosh
(Arrrgh, I undo more than I do)

Today's update.


One of the things that bug me is how much space circular ducts can take up between the joists, makes it harder to pack insulation. The top of the duct ends up and inch from the decking and the bottom of the vent leaves little room for insulation or isolation hangers.

Then it dawned on me, why not switch to square ducts?

6" round duct.

http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh293/Goshwin/IMG_0431.jpg


Hard to see but there is about an inch on the underside of this 6 inch duct and little room between it and the surrounding structure for insulation. No room to block in between the joists for clips as well. Then what does a square duct do?

http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh293/Goshwin/IMG_0433.jpg


Lots of extra room all around. The only concern is the efficiency of this duct shape. Square ducts do not flow as well as round. But this duct has a much larger cross section than the 6" duct it replaces and will likely lead to lower velocities and turbulent flow.
HVAC guy seems to think it might work out. Besides, I already have way more CFM to that part of the house than I need.
:D


Gosh.

Been a while since I posted. Been busy.

Did my isolators to float my walls.

http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh293/Goshwin/IMG_0502.jpg

Started the main dividing wall.

http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh293/Goshwin/IMG_0503.jpg

Got most of the double stud done, even stuffed in some insulation.

http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh293/Goshwin/IMG_0510.jpg

Got more done but will get around to posting later.

Gosh:)

Just something you might want to check out. Some flavors of Roxul insulation can be pretty stiff. In some cases it might be stuffed tight enough to somewhat short circuit a decoupled structure. The light weight pink stuff which compresses very easily doesn't have such a problem.

The reason I bring this up is I see the Roxul in the stagged stud wall and it looks like when you put up the drywall that the you will be defeating some of the isolation.

You might want to check with an "expert".

To keep a sense of momentum, here's the weekend work.
And no injuries to report! :)

Started to put in the wall that isolates the furnace.

http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh293/Goshwin/IMG_0513.jpg

Here it is from the other side.

http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh293/Goshwin/IMG_0512.jpg

Man, this is such a painfully slow process.
(and now I have a cold, no more progress this week I bet) :mad:

Gosh *Achoo*

I was working on the wall that isolates the furnace and aargh... I found that the studs have warped. :mad:

My answer? Power planer.!!

http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh293/Goshwin/IMG_0522.jpg

Result? Wood chips, lots and lots!!

http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh293/Goshwin/IMG_0523.jpg

Just getting started with this little booger, Booyah!:D

Progress seems slow but take lots of pics and in a few months look back at them. You will be amazed at how far you've come in that time.

You could also use that power planer to shave the ice off of your sidewalk :D. The front of my house faces north and if I don't get the snow off as soon as it falls it turns into ice and is there for weeks.

Been so busy shaving ice with my power planer that I forgot to post a couple of things.

I have decided to become a meditation guru.
Here's my bed of nails. :rolleyes:

http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh293/Goshwin/IMG_0019.jpg

Umm, ok thats how I secured my linacostics into my ducts. I turned those nails you use for foam board into push pins .

What kind of insulation are you using? I noticed a few pics of different kinds.

Thanks!

I'm using different insulation for different tasks.

The concrete walls are painted with water proof paint and to that I glued foam board. The results is a snug and dry basement. Against the foam board I built the stud walls with 2X4 and as a new trick, I foamed the wood onto the walls which reduces vibration in the studs.

http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh293/Goshwin/IMG_0424.jpg

The pink stuff is the usual fiber glass that I filled the space between the studs with to cut resonance in that volume.

The black stuff is linacoustics which is normally used in ducts to stop sound reverberating through them. Here is a piece being cut from the roll.

http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh293/Goshwin/IMG_0426.jpg

Here is a duct that has been lined with linacoustics.

http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh293/Goshwin/IMG_0427.jpg

The dark grey stuff is safe and sound (mineral fiber) its a good sound insulator and I stuffed the ceiling and some of the walls with it.


All for now.

Gosh

Todays update, furring channels.

Room shot

http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh293/Goshwin/IMG_0017.jpg

Channels.

http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh293/Goshwin/IMG_0018.jpg

Close up

http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh293/Goshwin/IMG_0019-1.jpg

All for now.:cool:

What kind of clips are those?

IsoMax

Info
http://www.kineticsnoise.com/arch/isomax/index.aspx

Are those 2x4 blocks for the furring channels?

Yep, I did the trick, common on this site, where you block between the joist and run the channels paralell the joist to minimized the loss of head room.

I used IsoMax since they are more compact. Not sure if they are better than risc clips, but they were cheaper.

Gosh

no sweat, the blocks looked smaller on the pics so I was curious...

For those that care, I finally took a pic of the speakers I will be using.

http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh293/Goshwin/IMG_0023.jpg

More wood scupture than speaker if you ask me. :D

Very nice. Totem Wind's if I'm not mistaken. What are you driving them with?

Bryan

Bryston power pack 250.

http://www.ultimateavmag.com/amplifiers/405bryston/

Gosh

How many of you keep a separate set of "Basement" shoes?

You know what I mean? A pair of horrible old beaters that you use for your project?

You leave em at the top of the stairs where the wife trips on em and complains about leaving stinky shoes everywhere!! :o

You know what I mean! :p

http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh293/Goshwin/IMG_0037.jpg

Anyone wanna start a "Show me yer stinky work shoes" thread?:D

lol, thats funny. I have a pair of running shoes now that are just "HT room" shoes :D

They have drywall crap on them and now BLUE paint since i have been painting the last few days.

Yep. I have a pair of beat up Keens that I use for the construction stuff. They don't smell too bad so they are allowed to be parked in the bedroom (out of sight).

I can't even bring my "basement shoes" up the steps they're so nasty....

Just learned how to use photo stitch to make a wide angle. :cool:

Current progress, in panoramic!! :D

http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh293/Goshwin/RoomShot.jpg

If you look close you can see the green tape I used to do the obligatory screen outline... Humm, 120 in... but can I go bigger!?!?! :rolleyes:

And for drama, here is what the room would look like with 120 inch Mr Burns. :eek:

http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh293/Goshwin/EvilRoom.jpg

Bwwwahahahahahahahahaha

Nearly made the Darwin awards when a sheet of drywall slipped before I could fasten it. It came crashing down from the ceiling as I dodged out from under it. :eek:

My answer to that, BUY MORE STUFF.

So without further delay, may I introduce my new drywall lift.

http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh293/Goshwin/IMG_0063.jpg

Ooo, shiny red, makes it look sporty and all. I could mod it up like the import guys do to thier cars. Give it a tool time treatment, add a power option with hemi. Yeh, grunt grunt grunt.

Real cheap at $177. Probably will be able to sell it off for most of what I paid when I'm done. (any local Cunuks here?) :)

Damn I wish I had started with this, makes life so simple.

Gosh

Dry wall pile grows smaller each day.

Layer one of the ceiling almost done.

Big news, I selected my lights!! :cool:

Well, not everyone would like these, but I wanted something modern looking and a touch of style.
http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh293/Goshwin/145344_family.jpg
They arrived yesterday and they do look nice!

all for now, will get pics later.

Cool lamp. I betcha that drywall lift helps a ton.

Nice lights where did you find them? Oh and doesn't leaving the window exposed negate the use of the isolator clips?

Nate

Cool lamp. I betcha that drywall lift helps a ton.
Oh boy does it ever, no more leaps to safety as my props slip and the who thing crashes down. (the Darwin awards will have to find another sap)

Nice lights where did you find them? Oh and doesn't leaving the window exposed negate the use of the isolator clips?

Nate

On lighting universe, PLC is the maker. There was another version identical to those, from an Italian maker $$$.

As for the window, that's a WAF thing. "I don't want the windows permanently blocked" "Don't worry, I will make a removable plug."
"Oh, ok."

What she dosen't know is that the soffit that goes over it will not be so "temporary"

Bwaaahahahahahahahah
http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh293/Goshwin/mr-burns-wallpaper-1.gif

Hello, another lurker reporting in with an AVS inspired build. (Damn I knew I should have stayed away form this place.) I am doing a basement build in a height challenged space.
I have concrete walls on 3 sides and it looks like I will end up with a 19" 7' long : 13" 4' wide and 7" .5' high.



That is one small theater. :) :)

That is one small theater. :) :)
Humph!:mad:

All us seven foot guys should band together and form a support group.
(chanting)

Not the size that matters but .... ummm... help me out here. ... Guys? Ohh guuuyys?!? :(

Humph!:mad:

All us seven foot guys should band together and form a support group.
(chanting)

Not the size that matters but .... ummm... help me out here. ... Guys? Ohh guuuyys?!? :(

7'2" here, where's the membership application?

7'2" here, where's the membership application?

Found a great thread of small builds. Damn, I thought I was limited with my dimensions. I have a friking huge space when compared to some.

Rocking! http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh293/Goshwin/FkingMeow.gif (now, whilst they are distracted, I'll just nip off and edit the inch and feet markers in my first post. ):rolleyes:

I have returned!!! (thought I was gone eh!?)

Well we have done the ceiling! Woohoo... :D

Here is the back end of the room.
http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh293/Goshwin/IMG_0077.jpg

Cables? You want cables... I gots yer cables right here...

http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh293/Goshwin/IMG_0078.jpg

Note to self... Must add vent or people will suffocate! (almost forgot this bit)

http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh293/Goshwin/IMG_0079.jpg

I found a use for all the drywall odds and ends.

If you have a wall section that vibrates, glue in layers of the stuff. :)

http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh293/Goshwin/IMG_0080.jpg

progress is looking great.

After pasting in 3 layers of bits and parts, I got a 300 pound wall and made a serious dent in my drywall leftovers.

http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh293/Goshwin/IMG_0081.jpg

All the resonance (vibration) is gone, this wall aint going anywhere. :cool:

Ok folks, time to finalize the lights.

We are planning one rope light in a soffit.
6 sconces, 100W each.
8 50w down lights (gu10) as wall and screen illumination.

The debate I have is...

Which controller? Grfix? other?

Do I do 3 zones or split the sconces into two zones to make 4 zones in all (during movies we would leave two scones barely on in the back)

Any ideas and advice would be apraciated. :)

PS... where to buy would be nice as well.

That is one small theater. :) :)

I resemble that remark!

Ok folks, time to finalize the lights.

We are planning one rope light in a soffit.
6 sconces, 100W each.
8 50w down lights (gu10) as wall and screen illumination.

The debate I have is...

Which controller? Grfix? other?

Do I do 3 zones or split the sconces into two zones to make 4 zones in all (during movies we would leave two scones barely on in the back)

Any ideas and advice would be apraciated. :)

PS... where to buy would be nice as well.

I have used Insteon throughout my house and plan to do so for the theater as well. It's relatively cheap, highly flexible and easy enough to use for making custom scenes. You can order it from SmartHome.

Big news!! We have a door:cool:

Before, the opening was meant for a double door.

http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh293/Goshwin/IMG_0058-1.jpg

After... note the seals already in place. Excuse the insulation at the base, I wanted to see how much sound the door blocked. :D

http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh293/Goshwin/IMG_0095.jpg


And this is the outside of the room.

http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh293/Goshwin/IMG_0094.jpg

This is the first door I have ever hung. And it actually works!!:p

Question time...
Does anyone know if base traps have to be done in pairs? for example, if you put one in a soffit do you have to do both soffits?


Gosh

How many of you keep a separate set of "Basement" shoes?



lol.... I am in the club! I think I had at least 3 pairs along the way. I think my first pair survived right up until they met the green glue monster.

Question time...
Does anyone know if base traps have to be done in pairs? for example, if you put one in a soffit do you have to do both soffits?


Gosh

I dont believe I have ever seen anything requiring pairs of traps. Mostly just that the more trapping you can do on the low end the better for typical rooms. Not sure I have ever seen a typical room on this forum though :)

I have returned!

Been a long while.

Had to fix a warped stud or three, tore one wall apart doing it. :mad:

But I got it back together and took the opportunity to fill the dividing wall with all my scrap drywall. The damn thing is MASSIVE! :D (it aint moving)

Any hoo.. Got the second layer up and even got first layer of mudding done. Started the sand and second layer on the ceiling.

Behold!!
http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh293/Goshwin/IMG_0168.jpg
Front...

http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh293/Goshwin/IMG_0169.jpg
Back..

http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh293/Goshwin/IMG_0170.jpg
Up.. (My glorious mudding... second layer that is.)

http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh293/Goshwin/IMG_0171.jpg
Down.. Really caked up floor (bleck) :(

Concrete etch does get this crap off though, really fizzy when you put it on! :D

Starting soffits this week, hope to have them done by Friday!

Update time...

Whilst getting ready to do the frames for my sofits, I notice a bit of an issue.

If you look at this...

http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh293/Goshwin/IMG_0079.jpg

You see the steel beam that runs down the left side of the room. Note the double layer drywall ceiling meets at a junction that I filled with sealer. Well guess what folks? Sealer hardens more than you know and with a bead 20 ft long and 1inch deep, you end up with a acoustical short into the steel beam!

That beam connects directly to the floor above!! WAAARGh.. :mad:


Soo what now? Well if you look at the seam, it's a 1/4 wide.

http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh293/Goshwin/IMG_0173.jpg


So you have to hack over an inch of material to get it out.
http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh293/Goshwin/IMG_0175.jpg

All this was done directly over my head, dust and clumps dropping into my hair. I looked like a theater spook haunting the place after I was done. :o

put a backer bar in the gap.
http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh293/Goshwin/IMG_0174.jpg

Slathered gooy acoustical sealant over it.. stuck insulation up to stop it dripping.

http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh293/Goshwin/IMG_0176.jpg

(yes, some of the black goo got in my hair :mad: )


Put up a bulkhead to isolate the steel beam from the rest of the room.

http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh293/Goshwin/IMG_0183.jpg

And finally started moving forward with the sofits again. (*#@^#$@# black goo gets everywhere!!)

Oh... right last pic.

http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh293/Goshwin/IMG_0184.jpg


http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh293/Goshwin/IMG_0185.jpg

Almost got the frames done, then I can stuff em and skin em... :cool:


PS... yes the beam is nice and isolated now!

Nice work with some crappy problems.

Just wondering - how did you go about fastening the 2x2 to the ceiling for your soffit?

Looking Good Gosh, looks like you are making some good progress.

HT shoes - Check :eek:

Low Ceiling - Check :(

Long Slow Process - Check :confused:

Was it all worth it - Check :D

Cheers,
JJ

Nice work with some crappy problems.

Just wondering - how did you go about fastening the 2x2 to the ceiling for your soffit?

Used the longest drywall screws for metal furring I could find.

(4 inch I think) And drove two in at 24 inch spacing (where the strips are)

I also glued the crap out of everything with urathane construction adhesive.

It aint comming down.... (I hope) :o

Looking Good Gosh, looks like you are making some good progress.

HT shoes - Check :eek:

Low Ceiling - Check :(

Long Slow Process - Check :confused:

Was it all worth it - Check :D

Cheers,
JJ

Exposing your trials and tribulations before your peers.. Priceless.. :p

Subject... 2 heat vents.
Problem .. Lets sound through the isolation system.

Example:

http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh293/Goshwin/IMG_0178.jpg

Solution... Build box around it and fill one end with mineral wool.

http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh293/Goshwin/IMG_0180.jpg

Cover the surfaces with linacoustics.

http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh293/Goshwin/IMG_0182.jpg

Seal it and you get this.

http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh293/Goshwin/IMG_0186.jpg

Might make the baffles longer with another bend in it... But this is what it looks like outside the sofit.

http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh293/Goshwin/IMG_0187.jpg

All for now.

Did finish those baffle boxes.. They look like this now.

http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh293/Goshwin/c4ca814d.jpg

And added some molding to the soffits to give things a smoother look.

http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh293/Goshwin/acd3376c.jpg

http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh293/Goshwin/03a4614b.jpg

http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh293/Goshwin/bd5a2c5d.jpg

Hope to be priming the ceiling by this weekend.

:cool:

Question for the masses!

How does one edit the title of your thread?

Always wanted to call this the "Salt mine" for all the months spent slaving away underground!
:o

I would think a mod would have to do it for you

Used to be a Mod would have to do it. Now it looks like you can, edit the first post, and "go advanced".

Shoe update!!

http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh293/Goshwin/334d25d4.jpg

Bit dusty now, got a hole in the left one!:D

Very nice touch...
http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh293/Goshwin/03a4614b.jpg

Very nice touch...
http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh293/Goshwin/03a4614b.jpg

Thanks..

You know, its those little details that really make the room.

:)

All this sanding makes you gray.
http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh293/Goshwin/870cf54b.jpg

Maybe I should use a little "just for men" :rolleyes:

Jeeesh, I'm like something from that startreck episode with the half white face guys.

http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh293/Goshwin/1e2a9847.jpg

:D

Glad you were wearing a mask. Can I recommend goggles too? :p

Nowwww you tell me!

(humm, I would have ended up looking like some kind of freeky racoon)

:o

It's when you start priming that you really get a sense of how things are going to come out.

http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh293/Goshwin/b9e0389b.jpg

Man, it's awesome to stand under a perfect white expanse of ceiling and find only one tiny blemish. ;)

Man, it's awesome to stand under a perfect white expanse of ceiling and find only one tiny blemish. ;)

That is awesome. Must be very satisfying.

Man, it's awesome to stand under a perfect white expanse of ceiling and find only one tiny blemish. ;)


Yep, I saw that one too... wait, is that the one you mean?:p

Yep, I saw that one too... wait, is that the one you mean?:p

Huh? what? AAARGH...

Oh... I get it, ha ha... wait a sec.......In the corner!


NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO



:o

It's when you start priming that you really get a sense of how things are going to come out.

http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh293/Goshwin/b9e0389b.jpg

Man, it's awesome to stand under a perfect white expanse of ceiling and find only one tiny blemish. ;)


That's looks really good!!!!! Nice sanding job.

I really like how nicely your room is coming together.

Cliff

I was looking over my dusty room today and I noticed some kind of strange squiggly pattern.

http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh293/Goshwin/5cd6ea92.jpg

When I took a closer look I notice little marks besides the squiggly patterns.

http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh293/Goshwin/9e95bcf8.jpg

Thar be critters making footy prints in my dust!!

:D

Mice???

Mice???


Naw, far to small for that.

Could be a beetle of some kind or big centipeed? :eek:

Now that I'm mudding and sanding my last wall, I have a question for you sound experts.

I have someone who is trying to convince me that if I carpet my theater I will ruin the sound of the room.

Ummm.... is there validity to this? I just want to do a fabric room.

Now that I'm mudding and sanding my last wall, I have a question for you sound experts.

I have someone who is trying to convince me that if I carpet my theater I will ruin the sound of the room.

Ummm.... is there validity to this? I just want to do a fabric room.

Carpet on the walls? Outdoor carpet?

Umm.. heh..

I am doing a fabric room and felt a carpted floor would be best.
But someone is trying to convince me to do a hardwood floor for sound reasons.

*Shrug*

And todays color question is ... Milano blue.

How many people tried the HD version of it?

This is what is look like.

http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh293/Goshwin/IMG_0229.jpg

Think I will do this for the ceiling, the color seems more a teal than blue.

There are MANY more theaters here that have carpet than hardwood and most of the ones with hardwood, have area rugs in front of the screen. Carpet helps cut down on reflections

As for a color, a little too bright and 'in-your-face' for me... What are you thinking for the walls?

I never understood why that shade of blue became so popular. It's nice and all, but what is it about that color that makes it the big alternative to black?

Its popular because Dennis Erskine commented that it has the properties of appearing more gray than blue as the light dims, and not impacting the video performance of your system, while being a lighter color.

Its popular because Dennis Erskine commented that it has the properties of appearing more gray than blue as the light dims, and not impacting the video performance of your system, while being a lighter color.

That's basicly it, lighter!

To blance video performance and WAF :-) you have to figure out where you can afford to brighten things a bit. Doing the ceiling this way can make the room seem bigger and provide a lighter surface for the rope light to bounce off of. But, the walls will have to be darker and the screen will have a shadow box around it (in black) and the soffit undersides will be black. (GOM)

I am taking a chance on using some matt finish silver trim on the sconces (fingers crossed) and some oak trim in an effort to keep the room from being a dark cave.:o

So Cathan (Mr Astrix!) what think you? :)

It's been a long time coming, but the shell of the room is done.

Front.

http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh293/Goshwin/5ffc8039.jpg


back

http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh293/Goshwin/d2fb8b90.jpg

That's basicly it, lighter!

To blance video performance and WAF :-) you have to figure out where you can afford to brighten things a bit. Doing the ceiling this way can make the room seem bigger and provide a lighter surface for the rope light to bounce off of. But, the walls will have to be darker and the screen will have a shadow box around it (in black) and the soffit undersides will be black. (GOM)

I am taking a chance on using some matt finish silver trim on the sconces (fingers crossed) and some oak trim in an effort to keep the room from being a dark cave.:o

So Cathan (Mr Astrix!) what think you? :)

It should look lovely. :)

Goshwin:

Which brand of paint had the "Milano Blue" paint chip?

Oh, and while I'm in an insulting mood ;) I hope the "anti-carpet person" has a good day job.

Goshwin:

Which brand of paint had the "Milano Blue" paint chip?

Oh, and while I'm in an insulting mood ;) I hope the "anti-carpet person" has a good day job.


That's a CIL paint. Without flash on the camera the paint chip looks more like a teal. I am leaning more to a sherwinwilliams blue at the moment. (will choose final color this week.)

As for the hardwood floor guy, his day job, :rolleyes: heeh... he works here with me at RIM. :p

The original "Milano Blue" was marketed by Pratt and Lambert. That paint is not a true "Milano Blue" as I originally developed. If you cannot find the mix formula by searching on Milano Blue, let me know and I'll post them again.

Here is what I have in my clipping file:

Milano Blue has the unique characteristic of appearing grey when the lights dim.

Here's the mix numbers using Olympic Interior Latex Flat Base 3 (72003).

101 0 Y 6/48
102 3 Y 6/48
115 2 Y 2/48
113 1 Y 12/48
__________________
D. Erskine

Kind of hit a dead patch, but finally got moving on the build again.

Closed the window and began painting.

http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh293/Goshwin/IMG_0239.jpg

Ended up going darker blue on the ceiling, I like it. The walls you can see the lighter primer which was to light.

BTW... anyone notice how much light CIL flat reflects?
The first coat reflected way to much, so I painted over with Behr flat, you can see a patch of the CIL left for comparison.

looks like a dolphin exploded in there.

i know how those things tend to show much brighter in pictures than real life though, so i trust you didn't actually throw a wobbler at sea-world and spread the remnants all over your walls.

good stuff

dolphin?

Sheeze, get with it man...

I shoved a Gernade up this guys butt

http://www.blacknerdcomedy.com/wp-content/uploads/smurf.jpg

Humm... smurfy....:p

Lookin good smurfy.

I hear there is a fellow here by the name of bPape who can be helpful for sound design.

Anyone know how to get a hold of him?


DC

Did you send him a PM?

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/member.php?u=3179

Still here guys and still poking away at the room..


Dricore down and 2 of the base traps in place


http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh293/Goshwin/IMG_0241.jpg


And now with Linacoustics.

http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh293/Goshwin/IMG_0242.jpg

All for now. :)

Option 1

16:9 120 inch

http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh293/Goshwin/IMG_0246.jpg

Or option 2

2.39 130 inch

http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh293/Goshwin/IMG_0247.jpg

Our lines are open, so vote now!:D

Depends...How will a 16:9 image look thrown up on the wider screen?

I really dont know why I worry about this as there arent many 16:9 movies out these days...Even on stdvd

Depends...How will a 16:9 image look thrown up on the wider screen?

I really dont know why I worry about this as there arent many 16:9 movies out these days...Even on stdvd

Interesting point.....a 16:9 image would be 100 inches diag... 12 in black bars left and right side.

I just did a survey of my DVD and blueray collection... Only the TV based stuff was 16:9 and much of the rest was 2.35..

Since this is a movie and music room and not TV, then that leans us to the 2.35 end of things.

Interesting point.....a 16:9 image would be 100 inches diag... 12 in black bars left and right side.

I just did a survey of my DVD and blueray collection... Only the TV based stuff was 16:9 and much of the rest was 2.35..

Since this is a movie and music room and not TV, then that leans us to the 2.35 end of things.

COOL...SO the highth of the 2 different aspect ratios are the same? Its just the width?..I think I have asked this before but never was too clear on it.

IF SO, It makes me wish I had gone 2.35..

The 2.35 to 1 screen will be shorter in height, but much longer in width. If you look at the 2 options, the 16:9 screen comes down much lower, right to the top of the outlets.

My vote is for 2:35 to 1, go wide!!

The 2.35 to 1 screen will be shorter in height, but much longer in width. If you look at the 2 options, the 16:9 screen comes down much lower, right to the top of the outlets.

My vote is for 2:35 to 1, go wide!!

OK...So how do you watch 16:9? Do you have to get that expensive lens and add it or zoom in? out?...I think this is why I went with 16:9. That way everything fits. You might see bars but seems like you will see bars not matter what.

And they never bothered me anyways. Even way back in the early 90s when I had my pioneer laserdisc player.."letterbox"...Never bothered me but others always said..."why is there bars on top and bottom?"..."they kind of bother me."...I called them cry babys..;)

Mikieson,

If Goshwin were to go with a 2:35 to 1 screen, the 16:9 content would fill the screen height, but you would have a "reverse" letterbox where there are black bars on the left and right sides of the screen. To fill the entire screen, both height and width, you would need to utilize the zoom feature of the projector, or pay up the wazoo for one of those expensive lenses you mention (YIKES, and they are definitely expensive!!).

All depends on the individual's budget and tastes. If they don't bother you at all, go for 16:9 and save the cash. Or, if there is even a chance that you might want to go full widescreen at a later date or your projector supports the zoom feature, go 2.35 to 1.

My video content is similar to what Goshwin mentioned earlier...the vast majority are 2.35 to 1 movies, with some 16:9 content here and there. Since the majority are widescreen, I'd rather get the wider screen and utilize the "poor man's widescreen" by zooming.

FYI, the projector I'm eyeing is the Panasonic PT-AE3000, which has a zoom memory feature for just this purpose. Haven't gotten down to the point where I can pull the trigger though, I'm just finishing up on framing. :(

Sounds like there's no need for you to second guess your decision for a 16:9 screen if the black bars don't bother you. Let the cry babies cry, it's your theater!! :)

Why make the 2.35 screen so much smaller in height? It looks like you could at the very least go for an in between size from the 16:9 vs. the 2.35 heights.

In my theater, I figured out the largest 16:9 screen I could do height wise based on the ceiling and riser heights, then figured out how much width I needed for 2.35. I then sized it down from there to fit it in my space widthwise (had to go for the 129" wide screen instead of the 130" screen).

Hey Goshwin, are you planning on doing a false wall with AT screen? I went back through your posts and couldn't find mention of it anywhere, but it looks like you're treating the screen wall in preparation for one. If so, I 2nd Jamis' comment about sizing. If you can go bigger, go bigger.

On the other hand, if you're not doing an AT screen, maybe you should think about putting your speakers in place to see what size screen you can fit between them?

Are you going to get a lens or just zoom?

I prefer scope, but most likely will build 16:9 for ease of use, and due to throw limitations (small room).

Why make the 2.35 screen so much smaller in height? It looks like you could at the very least go for an in between size from the 16:9 vs. the 2.35 heights.

In my theater, I figured out the largest 16:9 screen I could do height wise based on the ceiling and riser heights, then figured out how much width I needed for 2.35. I then sized it down from there to fit it in my space widthwise (had to go for the 129" wide screen instead of the 130" screen).


That's about what my situation is. Height is the killer because of the second row riser + low ceiling... *bonk* ouch.

Also the speakers to consider, if I use my studio servo sub, it will need 20 inches under the screen.

But a 2.35 screen solves much of this. Go wide since I have the spare room in that dimension and cut the height to make it all work.

Hey Goshwin, are you planning on doing a false wall with AT screen? I went back through your posts and couldn't find mention of it anywhere, but it looks like you're treating the screen wall in preparation for one. If so, I 2nd Jamis' comment about sizing. If you can go bigger, go bigger.

On the other hand, if you're not doing an AT screen, maybe you should think about putting your speakers in place to see what size screen you can fit between them?

Yes for the wall but no AT for me, I am treating the wall as a general rule. Lower freq will go right through the screen and so the space behind the screen wall should be treated anyway.

I have been tinkering with my mock up and a couple of "speakers" made from more foam board. I do have to allow some space from the wall and treat that surface. So I'm leaning to the 128~130 range. But don't forget, I have ot be able to light that expanse and if you go to big then you lose the punch if the projector can't cut it.

Are you going to get a lens or just zoom?

I prefer scope, but most likely will build 16:9 for ease of use, and due to throw limitations (small room).

Zooooomm baby, zooom.

I have 12 to 18 feet of positioning I can use and if I go Panny AE3000, I can fill both screen options.

I am thinking that this room is a "WOW" room where we can do all the scope flicks and leave 16:9 hd for the TV (its a 60 in)

Zooooomm baby, zooom.

I have 12 to 18 feet of positioning I can use and if I go Panny AE3000, I can fill both screen options.

I am thinking that this room is a "WOW" room where we can do all the scope flicks and leave 16:9 hd for the TV (its a 60 in)

Sounds pretty similar to mine... We have our Panny AE3000 at 17' throw on our 129" wide 2.37:1 screen. Most of our viewing is 16:9 HDTv and video games, but the occational 2.35:1 movie makes the scope screen SO worth it. :)

We went AT though... I highly recommend it. It is very nice having the speakers hidden, the sound stage positioned perfectly, and the screen size maximized for the space. :D

I think you have made your decision. I think its a great one. Enjoy the scope screen.

Wide it is!!

Carada 130 is here!!

(whoah, this thing is big)

Won't be mounting it for a few weeks:mad:

I feel your pain! My screen is here and I'm weeks away from being able to put it up.

Been a long hiatus, but I just put the oak tray lights up.. Neato

http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh293/Goshwin/IMG_0267.jpg

Side shot!!

http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh293/Goshwin/IMG_0275.jpg

These are white LEDs, you would think they are blue but they are vivid against the blue paint.

http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh293/Goshwin/IMG_0270.jpg

The pictures don't do the light justice, the room is aglow with a diffuse blue and the blue becomes gray overhead.

http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh293/Goshwin/IMG_0269.jpg



Damn, I find myself just standing under these lights and vegging out, they are so nice and when I stain the oak, its gonna be nicer still.

:D

Wow! I really like the look of your light tray. The effect with the blue paint is cool. Is the top part of the tray made of oak crown molding or some other molding? I'd like to use this idea when I eventually start my theater. We get our new house in a little over two weeks. I hope to start construction some time in January. Keep up the good work.

Wow! I really like the look of your light tray. The effect with the blue paint is cool. Is the top part of the tray made of oak crown molding or some other molding? I'd like to use this idea when I eventually start my theater. We get our new house in a little over two weeks. I hope to start construction some time in January. Keep up the good work.

Ok..

The wood is 1X6 red oak in 15 ft lengths.
The original idea was to tack on crown molding like so.

http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh293/Goshwin/IMG_0289.jpg

But I didn't like the busy look of that molding and I wanted clean lines and curves. So I found hospital base board from HD which is marked as some exotic hardwood but in this area is actually red oak!

http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh293/Goshwin/IMG_0284.jpg

I had the 1X6 oak ripped on one edge to aprox 15 deg like so.

http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh293/Goshwin/IMG_0288.jpg

And glued it together to give me this profile.

http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh293/Goshwin/IMG_0281.jpg

When viewed from below it looks like one piece.
http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh293/Goshwin/IMG_0277.jpg

There were a few technical challenges in getting this assembled and in place, if people are interested I can post some info on that. ;)

Had I to do it over again, I would have built my soffet similarly to yours. Much simpler than my approach.

I've gots me a new toy.... eeeeheheheheheheh :D


http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh293/Goshwin/IMG_0295.jpg

Damn I like how this stain looks.
(First coat poly is on)

http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh293/Goshwin/IMG_0302.jpg

Once I get more coats its gonna be nice. :D

http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh293/Goshwin/IMG_0300.jpg

Oh, and I've started teh screen wall.. Wooho..

Post away I'm about to tackle my rope light tray and could use some more tips

Looks great. Can you post a pic looking down into your soffit? I'd like to get a better idea of how you framed it and how the oak is attached.

Are you doing fabric between the oak and the side walls?

to bad i live 2 hrs away, would like to come check it this out!!

Looking Good Goshwin! Very nice work and nice tight seems in that light tray woodwork. That blue looks great too. Keep up the good work.

looks good, I really like the oak trim, and will probably copy some details from it for my room, when I eventually get started on it :)

where did you pick up your drywall lift?.. I am at a point of needing one myself now ( not for the theater yet though :( )

to bad i live 2 hrs away, would like to come check it this out!!

Heck man...Whats 2 hrs? I drove a total of 4hrs for the launch of a videogame a few years back.lol...If its something you really like. DO IT!. You only live once as far as I know.

Tjalfe

Ebays got them cheap or watch Craig's list

I checked ebay, and they are all in the states with $350 shipping, none on craigslist, hence I asked :(

that is true, ive driven past where he lives before!

I'm done with mine, I hope!!! Its out on lone right now but contact me if you would like it.

Post away I'm about to tackle my rope light tray and could use some more tips


Woah... lots of interest now (I guess it happens when things near the end)

Ok... lots of questions to answer so I start here. (note I lost the pics so I re-enacted them using scrap wood)

When building this tray, problem #1 was getting the long oak boards to be straight when the molding is glued in place. This is a critical part since if you don't get this right the whole thing will be warped and the seams wont be tight.

How to do it? Take one board and use it as a straight edge for the other and clamp them together like so.

http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh293/Goshwin/IMG_0304.jpg

I added little shims to help protect the surfaces and to act as a hard edge for the trim to rest against flush with the oak board.

Then you tape the oak trim into place like so.

http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh293/Goshwin/IMG_0306.jpg

You tape the whole seam so no glue can ooze out and the trim can swing back like a hinge so the trim can be lifted for the glue step. Note, you have to use the larger clamps to insure you can lift the trim back to glue it like so.

http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh293/Goshwin/IMG_0307.jpg

You can then drop the trim into place and tape it down or use small weights.

Next step... assembly and lifting the whole thing as one peice :eek:

One of the other big problems to solve on this light tray was getting the 8 parts assembled and level which I found to be very hard since the lower beam that I was mounting to wasn't perfectly flat.
All wood has some twist and turns to it and that would throw the light tray off if I screwed or glued to it.

What I realized is that I had to glue the tray in place and let the glue level things and that meant pre-assembling things on the floor. (yep, and lift the whole thing as one part :eek:)

Here is a shot of the unskinned frames that support the tray, the lower beam has seams and knots in it so I can't just screw it on and hope it all goes on straight.

These pics should also help spacemanlee who wanted details, two birds with one post. ;)

http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh293/Goshwin/IMG_0186.jpg


http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh293/Goshwin/IMG_0187.jpg

Here is a mock up that shows the cross section of the final product with drywall and tray in place.

http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh293/Goshwin/IMG_0319.jpg

After install with cross members in place.

http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh293/Goshwin/IMG_0308.jpg

Any hoo, to assemble it I used a joiner to get the joints strong and help align things when clamped and glued. (wee new toy)

http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh293/Goshwin/IMG_0324.jpg

And clamped each joint to a board to insure things were as flat as possible.
(using scraps again to demonstrate)
http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh293/Goshwin/IMG_0325.jpg

Now this is where it gets interesting.

When all the parts are assembled you have a 8 ft by 15 foot doughnut (sorry no pics) how do you lift that without a small army?

I did it on my own by building a jacking rig (watching to many extreme engineering shows)

Here is one of the 4 rigs I used with a shelving support clamped in place.

http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh293/Goshwin/IMG_0315.jpg

I put the tray on the rig...

http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh293/Goshwin/IMG_0314.jpg

and went around lifting each a few inches at a time until it was all they way up where I could glue it.

http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh293/Goshwin/IMG_0317.jpg

Then I clamped every thing up in this manner to insure the tray was level with the soffit and would not sag.

http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh293/Goshwin/IMG_0316.jpg

As an insurance I drove screws in from the back in a manner that won't be visible when the fabric is in place.

http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh293/Goshwin/IMG_0311.jpg

whew... long post. Hope someone found it useful.

Looks great. Can you post a pic looking down into your soffit? I'd like to get a better idea of how you framed it and how the oak is attached.

Are you doing fabric between the oak and the side walls?

My previous post should explain all, but I guess I owe you one more detail, how does it look installed.

I assembled everything on the ground then lifted and glued it.
This is a blurry in place picture.

http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh293/Goshwin/IMG_0313.jpg

The interesting details are...

1. I got a rope light that was long enough to wrap 3 times around, nice and bright.

2. I used foil tape to line the left and right edges.

3. I painted the bottom white to reflect light.

4. I hot glued the rope down to make sure it stayed put and pointed up.

That's about it.

Oh... yes I'm doing an all fabric room!! (The *@@#&@^# samples of celtic have yet to arrive.... grr , I might as well do the soffit underside in black GOM since I have that sample and I want to get moving on this part)

:p

Goshwin... Plato hit the nail on the head with the whole Necessity and Mother thingy..... Very cool "Jacking Rig".. I gotta remember that one.

Brad

Impressive indeed! Amazing attention to detail, very, very nice.

looks good, I really like the oak trim, and will probably copy some details from it for my room, when I eventually get started on it :)

where did you pick up your drywall lift?.. I am at a point of needing one myself now ( not for the theater yet though :( )

I think I got it in London (Busy bee?) cant recall.

Humm, perhaps I should sell you mine?

Gosh

Foil tape great idea Goshwin :)

I plan on starting my rope light tray maybe tomorrow got all the oak to get started.

Gosh,

Amazing build! Thanks for sharing it with us! I am really enjoying all the pictures :D It really helps when I'm trying to understand things. I have subscribed and am looking forward to the remainder of the build!

Thanks!

Its when you get to the riser build that you can see the end in sight.

After this we carpet then fabrics, treat and install proj, speakers.... and well... tweak. Sooo close.

http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh293/Goshwin/IMG_0326.jpg

side shot.

http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh293/Goshwin/IMG_0327.jpg

Another step complete... Time to carpet!! :D

http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh293/Goshwin/IMG_0328.jpg

Its a WOW moment when you put the screen up for the first time.

http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh293/Goshwin/IMG_0329.jpg

That's when you realize that the project is coming to its end! :)

Looking good!

Here is a question for the masses, does your screen vibrate like a drum?

when I knock on the screen frame I notice a significant rumble of the screen vibrating like a large drum.

Is there anything I can do about this? With the massive power of my sub, I fear excessive reverberation of the screen coloring the bass response.


Gosh.

We finally got around to making my first fabric frame. The tricky one that goes over the screen and holds the lights.

Painted frame without fabric.
http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh293/Goshwin/IMG_0330.jpg

Frame with fabric and lights.

http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh293/Goshwin/IMG_0334.jpg

And the finished product... Looks rather nice I think. :cool:

http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh293/Goshwin/IMG_0336.jpg

Onward to the end!!:p

I just ran across your thread and have a question about your soffit design.

Is the only thing really holding up your tray glue? I saw you put screw in from the back side so you cant see them. I'm assuming you used nails also to put this in. How secure is it. I want to do something very similar and am intrigued by your idea.

I also am doing a riser very similar to yours. I bought all of my 2x6s to stack them like yours.;)

Nope, no nails.

I used urathane construction adhesive, lots of it. (the kind that expands into the gaps)
The glue is tough stuff and is augmented by the screws and when you consider that its only holding a 7 in wide bit of oak it's probably over kill.

Is that like Liquid Nails? I am going to do some 4" can lights in mine along with the rope lighting and am worried that glue just wont cut it. I was thinking of recessing some screws and filling them with putty.

Nope... used this stuff.
http://www.stickwithpl.com/Products.aspx?ID=fef65cc9-47bf-4802-aaa9-a343f2ef9458

got it at the big orange.

Be aware tho, only the tray is glued with a few hidden screws (it was a light load) ... as for the soffit, it's glued and screwed every way imaginable.
special care was taken on the main joints into the ceiling where two screws at each joint that connects into the underlying steel structure. (and the steel was doubled up to provide more meat to screw into)

Rule of thumb: if there is weight, screw the hell out of it.

Not posted recently. Guess I should update what I'm doing with my soffit fabrics.

We start by cutting 5/8th MDF into 4 ft X 2 in sections.

http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh293/Goshwin/IMG_0357.jpg

Using a joiner to make frames!!

http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh293/Goshwin/IMG_0356.jpg

Paint the front side black, spray 3m 77 then fabric wrap and pin from behind.

http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh293/Goshwin/IMG_0344.jpg

2001 "Its full of stars... Well, dust spots actually"

http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh293/Goshwin/IMG_0355.jpg

Installed.. funny how the flash shows contrast differences between two sections of fabric.

http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh293/Goshwin/IMG_0350.jpg

Close up of corner.. Nice tight joints.

http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh293/Goshwin/IMG_0348.jpg

Ok, still plodding forward with this fiddly part of the project. :o

Goshwin

Looking awesome. I didn't think I would like the blue colored paint, but it looks very nice. The stained wood trim is awesome, as is your screen wall. If I wasn't convinced that going with the wider aspect ratio screen was the way to go, I am now.

Thank you for sharing.

Jon

The interesting part about the blue on the ceiling is that it appears lighter in the flash but under low light its much deeper and makes the white led try lights seem blue.. The camera does not do it justice but the effect is very nice and fills the room.

Gosh. :cool:

Houston, We have a carpet.

After a long break... we got busy again. :o

http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh293/Goshwin/IMG_0461.jpg

And the back..

http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh293/Goshwin/IMG_0463.jpg

Time for the projector!! :D

Those of you who watch my thread will know my "Basement shoe" gag...

Well, time for a shoe update.:cool:

http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh293/Goshwin/IMG_0466.jpg

Things are looking kinda grim here... The shoes are reaching a limit with toe exposure and loose soles. (Had to glue my sole back on with rubber cement)

The question is, will they make it to the end of the project? :confused:

We will keep you posted, I'm sure you care as much as I do! ;)

Another Big milestone! The projector is up!!

And likely the last you will hear from me for ages!! :o
(Never hang the projector until your done!!)

http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh293/Goshwin/IMG_0467.jpg

Side shot!

http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh293/Goshwin/IMG_0468.jpg

One more for the heck of it!! :)

http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh293/Goshwin/IMG_0469.jpg


Nice getting those cables out of the way...But now to make it all nice and tidy... If I can manage to find some time between movies :p

Welp... now Ive moved some speakers and amps into the room. I'm never going to finish now!!! :(

http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh293/Goshwin/IMG_0471.jpg


And started doing the base traps.

http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh293/Goshwin/IMG_0472.jpg

I'm so screwed.

Room is really looking sharp!
Can you explain how you finished the oak wood around the soffit (stain, poly, etc.)?

Room is really looking sharp!
Can you explain how you finished the oak wood around the soffit (stain, poly, etc.)?

The wood is red oak. I think the final sand before stain was 250 grit...

The stain is old Masters, deep red line (vintage burgundy)
I let let the stain sit a little longer that normal because I was going dark.

Then minwax polyurathane for thee coats, light sand between coats to knock off any bits and lumps. (250 or 200 grit)

Thats about it.:cool:

Still a couple of soffit things to close op...

AVS... meet the ugly vent hole... Hole, meet AVS.
http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh293/Goshwin/IMG_0470.jpg

And now for the vent makeover..

http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh293/Goshwin/IMG_0473.jpg

Still getting a few things done, so I'm not watching movies... But then work is getting busy, and other things... Crap... So much to do and so little time.:mad:

Not been posting in ages... So methinks a little lunch break post wouldn't hurt.

Ok... here is a little trick I tried, I added a support to the projector mount so I can use the projector feet to stabilize and adjust the aim.

http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh293/Goshwin/IMG_0475.jpg

And I put the Grafik eye controller in . (soo kewl) :cool:

http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh293/Goshwin/IMG_0477.jpg

And we has teh chairs! :D

http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh293/Goshwin/IMG_0485.jpg

And I stubbed my toe.... AAARGH IT HURTS. (and oozes)

http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh293/Goshwin/IMG_0489.jpg

Great room! What are your seating distances to the screen? My room is similarly sized, 130" screen and all.

Cheers!

Great room! What are your seating distances to the screen? My room is similarly sized, 130" screen and all.

Cheers!

Thanks for the comment.

My seating is 12 to the first row and the back row is at the rear wall.

And we are starting on the rack just outside the room.

a middle Atlantic slim 34U

http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh293/Goshwin/IMG_0486.jpg

Thinking of using a Bryston 14B sst for this rig, but some argue that two 7B sst are better. (but will take up more space in the rack) Comments?

Welp... I went for it and now this new beasty is driving my fronts.

Woah, what a sound.

http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh293/Goshwin/IMG_0966.jpg

Don't have the patience to follow your thread but glad I tuned in to see the recent update. The wood trim is gorgeous. Red Oak stains so beautifully compared to common soft wood. I'm jealous.

Very nice indeed.

I like how you did you lifted your assembled light tray! And it solves how I'll lift my tray. I figured my drywall hoist would be good for one end but your post/bracket/clamp solution solves the rest of the problem.