I couldn't resist the recent Circuit City's BF sale price (2K-10%) on this projector so I bought one and so far I'm pretty happy with it :D . I would like to request other owners to post their settings, tweaks here.

My settings - Taken from Jason's Professionally Calibrated 6000 settings - Worked well for my 4900

Menu / Image

Gamma Mode - Auto
Contrast = -1
Brightness = 4
Color = -2
Tint = -1
Sharpness = -2

Color Temp = User
Reference = Medium
Contrast Red = 3
Contrast Green = -1
Contrast Blue = -17
Brightness Red = 2
Brightness Green = -2
Brightness Blue = 6

Iris = Auto 1
CTI = 0

Highlights

Good out of the box settings.
Flesh tones extremely accurate.
Colors are spot on.
Whisper quiet in the low lamp mode.
I didn't feel the need for an internal HQV upscaler as I use HD-XA2 for DVDs.
Razor sharp images and excellent colors with pristine HD source material like HD DVD and Blu Ray. Spiderman III on Blu Ray is out of this world so is Hot Fuzz on HD DVD.
I never felt the blacks were bad at all given its contrast ratio.

Excellent reviews from fellow AVS'ers:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=12738853#post12738853
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=12618799#post12618799
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=12690747#post12690747

Professional Reviews:

http://www.soundandvisionmag.com/hdtvs/2488/mitsubishi-hc4900-1080p-lcd-front-projector.html
http://www.projectorreviews.com/mitsubishi/hc4900/index.php
http://www.projectorcentral.com/mitsubishi_hc4900_home_theater.htm
http://hometheater.about.com/od/productreviewstoppicks/gr/MitsuHC4900shrt.htm
http://www.cnet.com.au/projectors/lcd/0,239035421,339284110,00.htm

Manufacturer Link:
http://www.mitsubishi-hometheater.com/hc4900.asp

Spec Sheet:
http://www.mitsubishi-hometheater.com/pdf/mitsubishi_hc4900.pdf

User Manual:
www.mitsubishi-hometheater.com/pdf/HC4900_User_Manual.pdf

Video Link:
http://www.metacafe.com/watch/807281/mitsubishi_electric_hc4900_hc5000_and_hc6000_projectors/
http://techvideoblog.com/ifa/mitsubishi-electric-projectors/

$500 Rebate from 12/01/07 to 01/31/2008

http://www.mitsubishi-hometheater.com/pdf/MIR-120107-123107-HC4900-MailInRebate.pdf

Order Better Filter

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=13341879#post13341879

I know there are better projectors but for the street price, this is the one to beat.
Call me biased but IMHO this PJ looks sharper, more colorful than my buddie's Pearl (VW50). The Pearl kicks ass in the blacks dept though. Again this is my personal opinion I don't intend to start any flames.

I'm sorry, I'm not much of a review writer but I'd be more than glad to answer any questions to the best of my knowledge.

BTW for the CIH crowd, there is no HD vertical stretch mode in the projector. Use external stretchers like HTPC or the poor man's vertical stretchers Samsung DVD-1080P7 or DVD-HD870 for DVDs.


cheers

Finally some screen shots! I was able find some time after the kids went to bed last night.
All taken from Matrix, Hot Fuzz HD DVD and Spider Man Blu-Ray.
Pictures may not be sharp due to when the frame was freezed and colors may not be accurate as they are dependent on the camera. They look much much better on the screen than in the photos. You'd see a lot more shadow details on the screen.

Sorry to disappoint some of you by not posting the photos sooner.

BTW photos are totally untouched. They are just resized by the AVS uploader.

Let me know what you think of the blacks. Are they inky enough for you?

Finally HC4900 tread :)

This may be projector to buy but i would need info on few things. For example what is true difference between HC5000 and HC4900? I heard on few places its same projector but only without HQV upscaler and some extra filter for dust. Is it true? Why than contrast difference in spect ( 7500:1 vs 10000:1)?

Even better can someone compare HC4900 vs newer HC6000 and other projector that cost more than 2700$ ? This projector is VERY tempting as it is cheapest 1080p.

The HC5000 is one of the sharpest projectors out there. I'd expect the HC4900 to be about equal on that note.

So if your one that loves the ultra sharp, like almost to sharp, this should be high on your list for the money.

Sharper than a Pearl, I'd say that as well. The Pearl has it's strengths as well though.

I wasn't expecting mits to be the <$2k price breaker...but they are. Should give the z2000 a run for the $. Enjoy.

Finally HC4900 tread :)

This may be projector to buy but i would need info on few things. For example what is true difference between HC5000 and HC4900? I heard on few places its same projector but only without HQV upscaler and some extra filter for dust. Is it true? Why than contrast difference in spect ( 7500:1 vs 10000:1)?

Even better can someone compare HC4900 vs newer HC6000 and other projector that cost more than 2700$ ? This projector is VERY tempting as it is cheapest 1080p.

Follow the video link. Manufacturer's rep clearly explains the differences.

I was on the phone with Mits Service guy the other day and he said the 4900 is basically a 5000 - minus bugs - minus HQV - minus 2500 contast ratio.

Between 4900 and 6000, HQV and constrast ratio are the only differences that I know of. I'm not sure about the HDMI versions though.

Between the three, the menus and other settings are the exact same except for the HQV specific settings.

The projector put outs razor sharp images like there is no tomorrow. Colors are almost 3D. If you can live with a bit of less contrast ratio, this one is a no brainer. BTW the projector has a motorized lens that can shift both vertically and horizontal.

How do you like dynamic iris? Is it fast enought so you dont notice it in action? One more question,how do you feel HC4900 compare to Pearl in real-life contrast... big difference or rather small that only videofiles will care.

Thanks

How do you like dynamic iris? Is it fast enought so you dont notice it in action? One more question,how do you feel HC4900 compare to Pearl in real-life contrast... big difference or rather small that only videofiles will care.

Thanks

Auto Iris felt seemless to me. I never noticed any lag issues.

As you may already know there are several factors that can contribute to the perceived differences in the contrast like the HT room color, ambient light, screen material, lamp mode, source material etc etc. Honestly, I have not done an AB comparison with Pearl (VW50) in a similar setup and I'm not a very picky videophile but I can spot minor differences in images. Having said that, from what I can remember, my friend's Pearl seems to have some edge but nothing very substantial and definitely not worth the $1000-1500 price difference between the two in any case.

As I said before if you are willing to compromise a little bit on the contrast , this projector will make you very very happy with its overall picture quality. I'm sure you won't be disappointed.

Here is a quote from one of the reviewers about the Mits images - taken verbatim - "I would go as far as to say, they have more punch (and sharpness), than my JVC RS1, which is twice the price. Overall, the Mitsubishi HC4900 produces rich, vibrant colors."

That really says a lot about this projector.

I just got this yesterday and all I can say is wow! Redrilled the plate in my Chief RPA mount so I could temp mount the HC4900 and with min adjustment can't believe how great the picture is. I'm going from a Benq PE7800 which was an upgrade from a Benq 6100. I'm using a highpower screen and the picture just pops. Sources are D'TV and HD DVD. I haven't calibrated yet. I'm in low power lamp mode, very quiet. I was also looking at the Optoma HD80 but because off the offset and my low ceiling I couldn't use it. I'm very happy with this projector and can't wait to calibrate this!:D

Does anybody know what type of filter one would put on this to protect the lens/keep it clean?

Does anybody know what type of filter one would put on this to protect the lens/keep it clean?

According to MITS, the latest gen PJs (HC4900, HC6000) have better dust protection than the previous gen (HC5000). So I guess what ever filter that comes installed with the PJ should be good enough.

It doesn't come with a filter, as far as I know; it has a lens cap, but since it'll be ceiling mounted, that'd be a bit hard to get on and off each time. I'd thought with other similar projectors people put ND filters on to a) improve black levels, and b) protect the lens. But I don't know if the HC4900 takes filters, nor what size might be appropriate.

It doesn't come with a filter, as far as I know; it has a lens cap, but since it'll be ceiling mounted, that'd be a bit hard to get on and off each time. I'd thought with other similar projectors people put ND filters on to a) improve black levels, and b) protect the lens. But I don't know if the HC4900 takes filters, nor what size might be appropriate.

Never mind. I thought you meant the dust filter. I'm not aware of any filters for the lens.

Any recomendations for a reasonably priced screen for the HC4900?

Any recomendations for a reasonably priced screen for the HC4900?

I'm projecting on a 120" wall painted with RS-MMMaxx paint formula. May not be a match to the Vutec SilverStar but looks pretty good compared to other cheap screens.

Very interested in the HC4900 but need some help. I do watch a great deal of SD material and HD on places like TNT. In the Sound and Vision review it states:

"Pressing the Aspect button toggles through 4:3 and 16:9 options plus picture stretch and zoom modes, though only 16:9 is available for high-def signals. That's a limitation when watching "stretched" upconverted programs on channels like TNT HD. Such programs cry out to be squeezed back to a regular 4:3 aspect ratio, and the HC4900 won't let you do it."

Is this only for the HDMI/DVI input?

Is this typical for all HD projectors or is this an specific to the Mits? This is one seriously impressive machine for the price. Any input would be helpful to help make this decision easier.

The projector is great. It was OK even on a flat black wall. We've now painted a screen goo screen, and it's excellent. I've got a 115" image from about 12' back from the front wall.

What's everybody doing to keep the lens clean? Lens cap on all the time? It seems a bit of a nuisance to keep taking it off to watch a movie, though.

SEYAK- I posted this over in your other thread, but wanted to include it here in case somebody missed it. At projectorusa.com the new HC4900 is $1828 (free delivery) - $500 factory rebate = $1328. Yes, they are a authorized dealer. I just bought one.

Well it looks like this thread is going to be more active now that this is clearly the low cost 1080p projector. I am anxiously waiting on mine. I know that there are a lot of folks that have been slamming this projector because of the contrast and black levels but, I have jumped and there will be no going back.

Since this projector has poor black levels yet seems to have enough light to project onto a gray screen to enhance the black levels, what are the screen choices of the current owners out there?

I have a painted DIY light gray screen up right now that is 96" diagonal. In the projector review they suggested to "go big" +120" and gray.

I would think that this would bring the Fashion Grey Wilsonart laminate into play. Is there a current owner with this screen setup that can comment on this option? I am especially interest in the performance in "some ambient light" conditions.

Looking forward to seeing if we can maximize the capabilities of this projector knowing the limitations that we face.

I don't think this projector has poor black levels, it just not as good as the other projector.

However if your room/setup is not in an ideal(no ambient light, darker color wall), I don't think you can tell a whole lot of difference. Also projector central just posted the review of 4900.

I just bought one too! Sweet 1080p with the sharpest picture available for $1328 I really never dreamed this would happen so fast! The HD1000U will now be going bye bye for big bro HC4900 :D

Glad I jumped on this before they sold out. Does the HC4900 do 24fps? It would be a nice extra :)

It accepts 24fps but outputs at a 1080P60 fps.

Well it looks like this thread is going to be more active now that this is clearly the low cost 1080p projector. I am anxiously waiting on mine. I know that there are a lot of folks that have been slamming this projector because of the contrast and black levels but, I have jumped and there will be no going back.

Since this projector has poor black levels yet seems to have enough light to project onto a gray screen to enhance the black levels, what are the screen choices of the current owners out there?

I have a painted DIY light gray screen up right now that is 96" diagonal. In the projector review they suggested to "go big" +120" and gray.

I would think that this would bring the Fashion Grey Wilsonart laminate into play. Is there a current owner with this screen setup that can comment on this option? I am especially interest in the performance in "some ambient light" conditions.

Looking forward to seeing if we can maximize the capabilities of this projector knowing the limitations that we face.

I'm projecting on to a 120" wall painted with RS-MMMaxx paint formula. May not be a match to the Vutec SilverStar but looks pretty good compared to other cheap screens. The picture looks awesome in my light controlled bat cave.

so, how would the contrast/black levels on this projector compare to the last gen Mits DLP's? Is it on par with the 1000/1500 or the 3000? Or is it somewhere between.

I have a 1000U and I'm very close to upgrading to the HC3000 but this one has given me pause. I've been a fan of DLP after having both LCD and DLP projectors in the past and am really making the move for improved contrast/black levels (I'm otherwise very pleased with the 1000u).

At this point, I value contrast just as much if not more than resolution. I'll take the reliable 720p with better contrast and blacks over the new fangled 1080p any day, but if the contrast and blacks are in the same league I have some serious thinking to do.

Here is a link to the review at Projector Central.

http://www.projectorcentral.com/mitsubishi_hc4900_home_theater.htm

Thanks Vic Y

so, how would the contrast/black levels on this projector compare to the last gen Mits DLP's? Is it on par with the 1000/1500 or the 3000? Or is it somewhere between.

I have a 1000U and I'm very close to upgrading to the HC3000 but this one has given me pause. I've been a fan of DLP after having both LCD and DLP projectors in the past and am really making the move for improved contrast/black levels (I'm otherwise very pleased with the 1000u).

At this point, I value contrast just as much if not more than resolution. I'll take the reliable 720p with better contrast and blacks over the new fangled 1080p any day, but if the contrast and blacks are in the same league I have some serious thinking to do.


Here is a quote from the 8/19/07 review of the HC4900 from Art over at projectorreviews.com:

"Mind you, the blacks, while not extremely dark, are at least comparable to most DLP projectors using the Darkchip 2, and it does a better job, than, say almost any 720p LCD projector. That said, of the LCD 1080p projectors, the HC4900's black levels are lighter than the Panasonic PT-AE1000U, the Epson Home and Pro Cinema 1080, and, of course the Mitsubishi HC5000."

The point is the blacks are somewhat lighter when compared to some of the other new 1080p projectors, but not majority the 720p models. If you are thinking of staying with a 720p projector primarily for contrast reasons, think again!

Here is a link to the review at Projector Central.

http://www.projectorcentral.com/mitsubishi_hc4900_home_theater.htm

Thanks Vic Y

I had not read this before ordering mine yesterday. WOW! A 5-Star Editors Choice award from Projector Central. :D:D:D:D:D This should lay any doubts to rest. Thanks for the link Vic.

Hey all,
I'm thinking of buying this to replace my 480p IN72. I have it hooked up to an HTPC using HDMI to DVI. I mainly use it for PC games, sports (american football mainly), TV (via USB tuner) and DVD/downloaded movies. I wish I had never stumbled across this $1328 price point as it is sending me into an existential crisis.

How will this function on an HTPC?

Am I better off waiting for the Panny AE2000u to drop in price?

As well, projectorcentral states "Data Compatibility: Computer resolutions up to SXGA 1280x1024". Does this mean that the max res of anything I watch through the PC will end up being 1280x1024? Thanks again, sorry for the n00b q's.

Mine will be arriving tomorrow. I'm wondering what HD DVD player to pair it with. Is there any advantage to getting a Tosh A35 or an XA2? I know it doesn't have 1.3 support so I'm wondering if it might be overkill. I know the XA2 is supposed to simply be a killer player across the board but I can't find it for under 600. Would the A35 be worthwhile?

Dino

I too was waiting for a Panny AE2000u price drop or possibly the new Epson. When I saw this thread I decided that this projector would work for me and bought one last night. I don't mind saving a thousand dollars over the Pan/Epson and believe I'll enjoy the picture just fine for a couple years ... Well, in a week or so I'll find out. Since the reviews indicate blacks are somewhat lighter when compared to some of the other new 1080p projectors, but not majority the 720p models i believe I'll be just fine. If not only because I wont know what i am missing?? I am going from an Pan AE900u to this projector which had weaker blacks.

Please comment on my plan on using a light gray/silver screen like the Elite ezFrame screen or Elite HC gray, see the review, to improve black levels on say 110-120" screen (or?):

http://www.projectorreviews.com/projectorscreens/Elite/ezframeHC/proscons.php

Room is light controlled, dark walls, 13.5' throw, 11.5 seating, for HD movies, 70% of viewing, and some ambient light for HD-TV/sports, no light directly on the screen.

Also, Projectorreviews wrote: a great matchup would be Da-Lite's HC Da-Mat, and Carada's affordable HC gray surface. Carada's is one I've never worked with, but from my understanding it is a dark gray, that should match very well. If you want to go larger screen sizes, the Firehawk, and Elite's HC gray surface, would be reasonable options. I'd avoid, in general, white surfaces, unless your primary purpose is non-movie content, such as sports viewing.

Any suggestions? Thanks

Mine will be arriving tomorrow. I'm wondering what HD DVD player to pair it with. Is there any advantage to getting a Tosh A35 or an XA2? I know it doesn't have 1.3 support so I'm wondering if it might be overkill. I know the XA2 is supposed to simply be a killer player across the board but I can't find it for under 600. Would the A35 be worthwhile?

Dino

If all you are worried about is the "video" side, go with the A20/30 or possibly A3. I wouldn't get the A35 since it performs the same as the cheaper A20/30 in that they ALL fail proper deinterlacing when outputting 1080P60. Best output from them all is 1080P24, so no point spending more money. If the Mits can't accept 1080P24 go w. the A2/3 since the Mits should at least deinterlace similar or better than A20/30/35 (only when they output 1080P60).

Can someone who owns the A35 and this pj check and see what the pj does when fed a 1080p24 setting? With the 720p Mits HD1000u I own, the only setting the A-35 seems to allow is 1080i or lower. With my Blu-ray player set at 1080p, the Mits displays 1080p60. Looks glorious. For some reason the Toshiba's seem to feel that my pj can't accept a 1080p image.

So...this new 4900 has my eye but not if the A35 won't give it the gusto. :) thanks in advance.

I'd go for the XA2 for the HQV chip (Since the HC4900 lacks it)... :)

Can someone who owns the A35 and this pj check and see what the pj does when fed a 1080p24 setting? With the 720p Mits HD1000u I own, the only setting the A-35 seems to allow is 1080i or lower. With my Blu-ray player set at 1080p, the Mits displays 1080p60. Looks glorious. For some reason the Toshiba's seem to feel that my pj can't accept a 1080p image.

So...this new 4900 has my eye but not if the A35 won't give it the gusto. :) thanks in advance.

It accepts 1080p24 without any problems but converts it to 1080p60 internally.
Mits simply rocks with the XA2. Thats what I use.

Mine will be arriving tomorrow. I'm wondering what HD DVD player to pair it with. Is there any advantage to getting a Tosh A35 or an XA2? I know it doesn't have 1.3 support so I'm wondering if it might be overkill. I know the XA2 is supposed to simply be a killer player across the board but I can't find it for under 600. Would the A35 be worthwhile?

Dino

Go for the XA2. The combination simply rocks. I was able to test a Faroudia DCDi based Denon dvd player (MSRP $350.00) which needless to say was no match to the XA2. XA2 simply makes the picture 3D like.

I wouldn't worry about the HDMI 1.3 at all as there is no source material with Deep Color. Deep Color is not going to be a night and day difference anyway at best slight improvement thats all.

Here is an excerpt from the projectorcentral review of this projector about the HDMI 1.3

"One is that the HC4900 is HDMI 1.2 compatible, not 1.3. Our feeling is, who could possibly care? Clearly many buyers associate HDMI 1.3 with "Deep Color" based on the unfortunate misnomer used in the marketing campaign. HDMI 1.3 will not deliver deeper, richer, more vibrant color than we currently get, even if and when we ever get sources encoded in greater bit depth. What HDMI 1.3 will deliver is more subtly differentiated colors. So for example, in a light blue sky that fades softly to a bit lighter blue, the Deep Color of 1.3 will eliminate any potential artifacts that might otherwise occur in the transition from light blue to a slightly different shade of light blue. In the vast majority of scenes in current film and video, the artifacts to be eliminated by Deep Color are uncommon and generally not noticed. So would we consider the lack of HDMI 1.3 a worrisome deficiency on a $2,000 projector? Not a chance."

http://www.projectorcentral.com/mitsubishi_hc4900_home_theater.htm

So again, just to get confirmation - how lame/weak/washed out are the blacks. While Evan seems to not be too bothered by them, things don't look quite as rosy in the other posted review - especially in the screen caps, and all of the lost black detail.

Only asking since I had a low end lcd in my 2nd theater - liked it initially, after a month I had to sell it. When I got the blacks BLACK, there was no shadow detail; when I bumped it for detail, I had gray blacks.

So now that you folks have lived with this pj for a while, are you still happy with shadow detail? Thanks - would love to pull the trigger; obviously, price is the big point here, so I'm just trying to decide if I'll be happy later.

I ended up ordering an A35 on a whim since it was 312 with overnight shipping. Couldn't seem to find the XA2 for under 600 and I've seeing a lot of posts that the machine can be buggy. That said, maybe I'll part with the A35 if I can find an XA2 for under 500 in the coming few weeks. I doubt I'd lose a whole lot on the sale but the XA2price point seems to have gone back up since it flirted with under 500.

I'll keep you posted on this baby since the PJ literally just got to my door and the player will be here tomorrow.

Dino

So again, just to get confirmation - how lame/weak/washed out are the blacks. While Evan seems to not be too bothered by them, things don't look quite as rosy in the other posted review - especially in the screen caps, and all of the lost black detail.

Only asking since I had a low end lcd in my 2nd theater - liked it initially, after a month I had to sell it. When I got the blacks BLACK, there was no shadow detail; when I bumped it for detail, I had gray blacks.

So now that you folks have lived with this pj for a while, are you still happy with shadow detail? Thanks - would love to pull the trigger; obviously, price is the big point here, so I'm just trying to decide if I'll be happy later.

I second this. If any owners came from 720P LCD or DLP, how do the blacks compare.

Me too, I own the A35 and the my projector should be here nxt wk... I'll post what I see. Oh! I need a screen... Any comments?

Does anyone here know if this pj will do Vertical Stretch of HD for a CIH/Anamorphic lens setup? I see in looking at the manuals that between the 6000, 5000, and 4900 only the 4900 doesn't have a "Cinemascope screen" selection under the Advanced menu. :confused:

Like the above poster says, "nothing touches the HC4900 for overall value right now." I can't agree more. Mine arrived today and I only had time to watch TWC over the SA8300HD box. SD looked better than the Epson 400 and 800. The sharpness is also apparent and I have to say Time Warner as a source really sucks. SD looked like **** on my old plasma as well as on the PJs. It became almost unwatchable to me but I sucked it up when I started following the Ultimate Fighter series. Without a pj for a month or so there were a couple of shows saved in the dvr.

Having watched more than half a season in a sitting a month or so back, I remember conitnuously fiddling with the Epson 400 remote trying to make it more watchable but nothing seemed to put Johnny's eye back.

The Mits is a notable improvement- Blacks are definitely blacker without the crush and the sharpness makes a big difference to me. The Epson 720, which I liked quite a bit actually, always begged to be focused just a bit more but could never quite turn the trick.

Overall, SD still kind of sucks but on close ups in particular, the image is quite good. Get something panning or any distance, there always seem to be some slight noise, smear and blur. I say all this in comparison to what you get with better sources which can be oustanding.

Flipping through the HD movie channels I had to watch a few minutes of Idlewild as the image grabbed me. The pic was 3-D and the projector isn't even mounted properly. I need to tweak the mount so the pj is leaning to the left. Without even projecting a straight image, I could have easily watched a movie that looked this good without being bothered by a more than slightly tilted image.

Comparing this to the Pearl, I would lean towards the Mits without question. Of course this is mere opinion but I really dig the sharpness. That's what surprised me the most. It has always been difficult for me to quantify anything without seeing it- By this I mean, when I have HD material in front of me, it looks good regardless of the PJ. To some degree, I can't imagine it looking much better until I see something better. In this case, there was available reference to see an improvement and I definitely did.

By the way, thanks for the posters with the suggestions on the DVD player. I ended up with a Tosh A35 which will be here tomorrow. In some sense it may be overkill.

I do have a question- If you took say an HD DVD player that can only ouput to 1080i but run into a 1080p projector, how would this be inferior to an HD DVD player that outputs 1080p running into same PJ?

Dino

I'd like to use the 4900 with a 2.35 screen, but it looks like it's missing the Cinemascope option and perhaps too doesn't do Vertical Stretch? Anyone?

The blacks are great on this pj - Evan said they are the same as the HC5000 (in the 4900 review) which beat all the 1080p projectors a month ago.

Thanks - I read the reviews. Bearing in mind that Evan rarely complains about anything, I also read the second review (in the links in the first post - projectorreviews.

Quoting that review,

The HC4900 looks exactly like the HC5000, and shares virtually all of its features. There are differences, however. Most notably the image processing is different, and the HC4900 has a lower contrast ratio (7500:1 instead of 10,000:1). The most obvious result of this, is that the HC4900 cannot match the black level and shadow detail performance of its more expensive sibling.

end quote

Which is what prompted my question, to other AVS'rs who have the puppy in their hands. I'm sold/convinced, re the color fidelity, sharpness, and I can sure live without the onboard processing of the 5000. What I don't want to do is drop 1400 bucks and discover that the blacks are so crushed and/or washed out that I end up hating the projector. Local Mits dealer won't stock it - already asked. He has a 5000, has a 6000 on order, but has no intention or desire to stock or show the 4900. Since that could be due to two reasons (either so good as to hurt the sales of the high end models, or so bad that no one would want it) - that's why I'm soliciting opinions.

Thanks. - I've really done the homework, and read the printed (and sometimes paid for) reviews.

Thanks - I read the reviews. Bearing in mind that Evan rarely complains about anything, I also read the second review (in the links in the first post - projectorreviews.

Quoting that review,

The HC4900 looks exactly like the HC5000, and shares virtually all of its features. There are differences, however. Most notably the image processing is different, and the HC4900 has a lower contrast ratio (7500:1 instead of 10,000:1). The most obvious result of this, is that the HC4900 cannot match the black level and shadow detail performance of its more expensive sibling.

end quote

Which is what prompted my question, to other AVS'rs who have the puppy in their hands. I'm sold/convinced, re the color fidelity, sharpness, and I can sure live without the onboard processing of the 5000. What I don't want to do is drop 1400 bucks and discover that the blacks are so crushed and/or washed out that I end up hating the projector. Local Mits dealer won't stock it - already asked. He has a 5000, has a 6000 on order, but has no intention or desire to stock or show the 4900. Since that could be due to two reasons (either so good as to hurt the sales of the high end models, or so bad that no one would want it) - that's why I'm soliciting opinions.

Thanks. - I've really done the homework, and read the printed (and sometimes paid for) reviews.

This is where I fall, as well. I've been close to ordering a few times, but the reviews complaining about the black level always make me pull back. I'm sold on the other features, but at this point I'm upgrading from my HD1000U because I want better blacks; if the 4900 doesn't improve on that (and I'm talking clear improvement, not fancy iris tricks that would yield deeper blacks and "higher" CR at the expense of the pic) then I'm just going to wait on 1080p.

I've already picked up a HC3000 off ebay that'll take the place of the 1000U. I can still flip it if I feel the black levels are up to snuff on the 4900 after more people have a chance to get it in home.

reviews complaining about the black level always make me pull back.I currently have a 4 year-old Sony GWII 60" LCD RPTV, which doesn't actually HAVE black (!!! grey at best) so I'm wondering, as a would-be PJ owner, if this one would be a great improvement over that??

Side-by-side comparisons are going to show-up differences though that by themselves we'd never see in these projectors I think.

So far the problem I see with this PJ is that it does not APPEAR to do 2.35 screens very well, ie. it does not have the Cinemascope screen mode that would allow one, when zoomed-out to a 2.35 screen, to see all the OSD. I haven't decided if that is a big enough deal to turn me off or not. Any opinions?

Given the price drop, I am considering this projector, but I'm not sure if this will suit my needs. I was originally gunning for the Panny AX200U, but 1080p is something that I want.

Setup: non-light controlled living room, although I have shutters to get the room relatively dark, see pic below shot with flash
I will have an HDMI switch to switch from my Panny Plasma and the projector.
Sources: Verizion FiOS HD, PS3 (blu-ray & games), and my Wii.
Main uses: in no particular order: Movies (at night) Games (20% day and 80% night), Football (mostly day games) and sometimes I will just want to put something on the big screen! Eventually I'd like to hookup a media center.
Originally I wanted the light canon in the AX200U since it has great reviews in ambient light, but I have the 1080p itch!

Any recommendations??

http://buan.com/projector/setup.jpg

Well I couldn't stand it--having expected to wait many months to afford a HC6000 I've popped instead for the 4900. ProjectorPeople (Carmen) is offering free overnight shipping today, so I will have it tomorrow already--FedEx Saturday service! Just got her confirmation! :eek: :cool:

I'll be thrilled to finally join the Front Projection club, but I don't have a screen so don't expect any reviews from me anytime soon! :p

I think for anyone on the fence this thing is a no-brainer though--having studied the build quality of the 5000 and the 6000 it appears the 4900 is (at least physically) identical in most every way. Very excited here! :)

I can't see how the blacks could possibly be worse than the PT-AX200U. And if that's true, what if any benefit would it have over the Mits?

Also, how would the blacks compare to a DC3 DLP with sub-par blacks, like the InFocus 7210? Again, outside that, would would be the 7210's advantage over the Mits?

Let's put this in perspective...

If you are moving from a 720p, from professional reviews we know the black levels will probably be better than what you currently have now. We also know you would be moving up to the sharpest 1080p picture available, and among the best color saturation projectors on the market for under $10,000. Add in the features such as long-life LCD panels, powered lens shift/zoom cabability, and the quietest fan on the market, it's a pretty good step up.

I just received an e-mail from projectorusa.com that my HC4900 is shipping out today. I took the UPS ground free shipping option, so maybe it will be here by the end of next week. I am hoping that my current ceiling mount that I am using with my Sanyo Z3 will work with the HC4900, or there will be an even longer wait before I can get it installed. Hopefully I should have some comments on it by next Saturday.

It's going to be a long week!

I just received an e-mail from projectorusa.com that my HC4900 is shipping out today. I took the UPS ground free shipping option, so maybe it will be here by the end of next week. I am hoping that my current ceiling mount that I am using with my Sanyo Z3 will work with the HC4900, or there will be an even longer wait before I can get it installed. Hopefully I should have some comments on it by next Saturday.

It's going to be a long week!

Mine shipped out too, need a screen...

I just received an e-mail from projectorusa.com that my HC4900 is shipping out today. I took the UPS ground free shipping option, so maybe it will be here by the end of next week. I am hoping that my current ceiling mount that I am using with my Sanyo Z3 will work with the HC4900, or there will be an even longer wait before I can get it installed. Hopefully I should have some comments on it by next Saturday.

It's going to be a long week!
I'm about ready (finally) to bite the bullet also. This thing is to darn physically large for my mounting location but I don't think I can resist. I went through these two HC4900 threads and the 5000 and 6000 threads in the >$3K forum searching for ceiling mount experience. I don't think anyone is ceiling mounting these honkers. I did find one gent with either a 5000 or 6000 that complained of the three far apart 4MM mounting holes and it made his mount hang weird.

I just bought a mountdirect NPL five months ago and it works great with my Optoma. But it's white and hangs to low for the HC4900- it'll hit my head. I wanted to order a black mountdirect PMS mount as they're lower profile but the compatability guides for those mounts don't list this series of cases as being compatible. I really don't want to add a ~$150+ chief mount or something like that to this bill. I'm already over budget :)

I've heard that this projector can not do aspect conversions on HD content - can someone who has one confirm or deny if it can compress stretched content, or zoom in on pillar boxed wide screen content?

A third technical difference between the two models is that the HC5000 (now discontinued) was rated at 10,000:1 contrast, whereas the HC4900 is rated at 7500:1. However, we don't see a significant difference between the two in actual contrast performance. Moreover, the HC4900 does not fall too far short of the Sanyo Z2000 where contrast is concerned, and the Z2000 is rated at 15,000:1. It strikes us that Mitsubishi was exceptionally conservative in the rating of this particular model.

That was taken from the projectorcentral review. Anyone concerned about the black levels should read the review.

[

That was taken from the projectorcentral review. Anyone concerned about the black levels should read the review.

Or - read the one from projector reviews that does take issue with contrast and blacks. Or find one myself, I guess - since right now we have 3 dueling reviews, with Evan seeing no difference and Art Feierman seeing a noticeable lack of black detail.

Obviously, the 4900 is better than anyone's 3 year old xga box - but so what? That isn't the real point. What I want to know is if the blacks will start to annoy me after the initial honeymoon is over....without spending the money to find out, in case they do.;)

Several observations/comments:
1. ProjectorUSA is now $1409 with rebate. Was it priced less a few days ago?
2. Based on the rapidly falling prices, does anyone here think we'll see the HC4900 or any 1080p projector at the$1000 mark within the next 12 months?
I can buy now but I'm not in any hurry and this time price is everything to me. I am tired of being one of those 'early adopters' and paying for it.
Thanks for any response.

As far as black levels if you need the best get the HC6000. If I had the money that is what I would be buying, but I need a brighter pj too since my screen is 140" in white. I'm not expecting the best blacks but they will be better than my HD1000U so I am upgrading across the board. In a year or two I will upgrade again when the really expensive models go frok 6k to 2k.
I'm with you, though as a first-time fpj buyer, and owner of a LCD rear projector with BRIGHT GREY blacks, I hope/expect that the 4900 will be much better provided I get the right screen for it. Don't want to spend for the 6000 right now, the 5000 has older tech & a few problems AFAICT, and the 4900 has the same construction as the 6000 w/a few downgrades of course, but I will live with them for $3K+ less!

I've heard that this projector can not do aspect conversions on HD content - can someone who has one confirm or deny if it can compress stretched content, or zoom in on pillar boxed wide screen content?Sound & Vision said it does not compress. I think the only HD modes are those in the manual, since the 4900 does not have the 2.35 SCREEN SIZE option.

I'd hoped to get a pj that I could do a CIH/anamorphic lens with in the future if I wanted to, but I don't think the 4900 is capable. I'll do the Zoom method instead w/my 2.35 screen and invest the $3K I've saved in some future super-duper pj upgrade...

I bought the HC 4900 projector and am disgusted with it. Yes the picture is fine, but for some reason it won't turn on.

Here's the long story...
I built a new house and have a dedicated theater room 24x16' with theater seating, black lights, high end sound system, the whole deal. My projector is the Mitsubishi HC4900 and it has extremely irratic behavior. Sometimes it won't turn on. I have a Harmont 890 remote and when you want to watch a BRD or Dish, all of the sound components come on, but the projector's bulb won't turn on.

There are 2 green lights and when I turn it on, the lights both come on, then the bulb doesn't turn on then the power light power light is steady green and the status light is blinikng red, the book says there is a circuit error, or the bulb needs to be changed. So I took it back to Best Buy, they sent me a brand new one, and the same thing happened.

I want to know if anyone else has this problem, and if you are looking at the 4900, beware of this weird power issue I'm having...thanks

Two in a row? Sounds more like you have a power issue in your home.

I'm looking at the manual now and your light scenario is not really listed the way you described it. I see two possible slightly different listings:

1. Power light is steady green and status light is blinking orange
- room is too hot or ventilation is blocked
2. Power light is steady green and status light is blinking green/red
- means that the lamp reached 3750 hours while on

Test your PJ on another circuit and in another house if possible.

Yes, I typed it wrong... I have Power=Steady red and Status = blinking green. Page EN-41 of the manual says "the protection circuit is working or the lamp is in an abnormal condition" the possible solution is " wait until the Status indicator goes out, then press the power button. If the above solution is not effective replace the lamp." This is a brand new projector with less than 5 hours of use.

And it's a brand new house (less than 2 months old) with new wiring. And the internal circuit board of the 4900 is working, but it doesn't work. And this is the second projector that is doing this to me...any ideas?

@KingKorn since you started a thread about this, please post there rather than here (or worse, both places!!!).

New to Home theater and new to AVS. I just bought the HC4900 from projectorpeople. It will be a few days before I have it hooked up.

In this thread several people have mentioned calibrating their projector. I don't see anything in the owner's manual about calibration. Does calibration just mean adjusting the settings manually or is there something else I need to calibrate after I get my screen?

Thanks in advance.

Does calibration just mean adjusting the settings manually or is there something else I need to calibrate after I get my screen?Most people here will want to adjust all the settings to achieve optimum brightness, contrast, color, sharpness etc. ProjectorPeople should have shipped you an Avia calibration DVD (holiday special) which should explain what this is all albout. If not you might want to lay your hands on one, if only to have this explained in detail to you.

The only DVD I got was in the box and appears to be only a User manual in pdf. I'll try giving projectorpeople a call.

Thanks for the reply.

Where is the fan exhaust on this unit?

There are vents on both sides of the unit but the filter is on the right side (facing the lens and unit upright)

I just bought an Optoma HD80 but have not opened the box.
I have been reading today about a couple of newer 1080p projectors that are getting great reviews, namely, the Mitsubishi HC4900 and the Panasonic AE200.
Does anyone here have any experience with the AE200 or the Optoma projectors? How do they compare to the 4900?
Thanks!

The only DVD I got was in the box and appears to be only a User manual in pdf.I didn't notice that! Still unpacking my own PJ today.

If your Packing Slip doesn't show the Avia disc, then either you didn't enter HOLIDAY on your Web order, or didn't ask for it when you called. I called & asked and as it turns out the disc is listed as backordered for me, so maybe they've run out. Regardless, it might be worth a call to them to see if they'll send one to you.

If you're one of those guys who plugs-in a TV and only changes channels from there on, maybe you won't want to bother with anything beyond getting the geometry right. Most folks here tho are big-time tweakers! :cool:

I currently have the Optoma HD70....DC2 technology. Makes me wonder how much of an Upgrade this would be.....I'm really tempted because most reviews show a great lumen output compared to the HD70....

The mits...has almost as bright a picture as my optoma in bright mode...with the mits set to low lamp mode.

Sometimes with ambient light, my hd70 is a little washed out 108 inch diagonal screen. Just thinking that the mits would be at least as good of a picture but a lot brighter.


Any thoughts?

I hate my Mitsubishi 4900, and I'm trading it tomorrow for an Optoma HD 80.

I just bought an Optoma HD80 but have not opened the box.
I have been reading today about a couple of newer 1080p projectors that are getting great reviews, namely, the Mitsubishi HC4900 and the Panasonic AE200.
Does anyone here have any experience with the AE200 or the Optoma projectors? How do they compare to the 4900?
Thanks!

Wow, you haven't opened it?! Not even a little temptation :p! Why not just fire it up and see if it fills your needs? It's also a great projector. Can't take back an open box where you got it from?

I bought the HC 4900 projector and am disgusted with it. Yes the picture is fine, but for some reason it won't turn on.



:confused:

I didn't notice that! Still unpacking my own PJ today.

If your Packing Slip doesn't show the Avia disc, then either you didn't enter HOLIDAY on your Web order, or didn't ask for it when you called. I called & asked and as it turns out the disc is listed as backordered for me, so maybe they've run out. Regardless, it might be worth a call to them to see if they'll send one to you.

If you're one of those guys who plugs-in a TV and only changes channels from there on, maybe you won't want to bother with anything beyond getting the geometry right. Most folks here tho are big-time tweakers! :cool:

I have heard that there is a THX picture calibration section on the "Cars" DVD movie. If so, does anyone know how close you can dial in a good picture in comparison to an actual calibration disk like the Avia? Thanks.

I am curious if anyone has seen this PJ and either the Marantz VP4001/Sharp XVZ3K/DT-500. Wondering how the black levels compare and any other comparisons.

Thanks in advance.

I guess there are lots of us HD1000u owners who'd love to know how great/in what way it's an upgrade. Especially worrying for many of us long-term DLP fans is the notion of going to LCD and giving up DLP's main plus point (other than SDE which is far less of an issue with 1080p).

Any early upgraders, do post a full comparison (perhaps a different thread? I dunno).

And to give my input on the question of if it'll get cheaper - I can't believe it's already this cheap. I do think we'll see 1080p units break the $1k barrier in 2008, this is presently the cheapest (and seemingly best value) so who knows...

...there is a THX picture calibration section on the "Cars" DVD movie...how close you can dial in a good picture...I like the THX screens a lot. They are clear & simple/easy-to-use, especially by comparison to Video Essentials that I have struggled with in the past. Dunno about the Avia.

I don't have a screen yet for my 4900, and I'm a rank amateur when it comes to front projection, so have no idea how easy or difficult it will be to get (especially) black level calibrated right.

I can tell tho just projecting onto a sheet that the 4900's sharpness is outstanding!

I bought the HC 4900 projector and am disgusted with it. Yes the picture is fine, but for some reason it won't turn on.

Here's the long story...
I built a new house and have a dedicated theater room 24x16' with theater seating, black lights, high end sound system, the whole deal. My projector is the Mitsubishi HC4900 and it has extremely irratic behavior. Sometimes it won't turn on. I have a Harmont 890 remote and when you want to watch a BRD or Dish, all of the sound components come on, but the projector's bulb won't turn on.

There are 2 green lights and when I turn it on, the lights both come on, then the bulb doesn't turn on then the power light power light is steady green and the status light is blinikng red, the book says there is a circuit error, or the bulb needs to be changed. So I took it back to Best Buy, they sent me a brand new one, and the same thing happened.

I want to know if anyone else has this problem, and if you are looking at the 4900, beware of this weird power issue I'm having...thanks

Check this out.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=12367699&highlight=voltage#post12367699

Looks like a minor but a known issue with the HC5000.

I guess there are lots of us HD1000u owners who'd love to know how great/in what way it's an upgrade. Especially worrying for many of us long-term DLP fans is the notion of going to LCD and giving up DLP's main plus point (other than SDE which is far less of an issue with 1080p).

Any early upgraders, do post a full comparison (perhaps a different thread? I dunno).
...

EXACTLY...you've got to think that the 4900 will be a substantial upgrade though. The contrast is 7500 for it and 2500 for the hd1000u. More & more I am unsatisfied with the 1000u's black levels. There are times when watching Blade Runner on HD DVD that left me feeling inferior. :D

The 4900 is a GREAT price and from reviews a solid 1080p pj. After the rebate, the next step up in terms of performance is $1000 more for the Panny 2000. That's alot of cash.

I'm a diehard DLP man for the contrast and color.....I may be making a leap towards the Mits.....I'm glad I found this thread dedicated to this product. Happy Holidays fellow projector nerds.

I'm a diehard DLP man for the contrast and color.....I may be making a leap towards the Mits.....I'm glad I found this thread dedicated to this product. Happy Holidays fellow projector nerds.

I think the question boils down to for this pj is black level. How does it stand against a DLP like the HC3000 with DC2? lStep forward, lateral move or step backwards? From what I read color accuracy and sharpness are area's this pj stands out in.

I think the question boils down to for this pj is black level. How does it stand against a DLP like the HC3000 with DC2? lStep forward, lateral move or step backwards? From what I read color accuracy and sharpness are area's this pj stands out in.

Yea, I've read most of the available reviews. Projectorreviews.com projectcentral.com and an online magazine publication. For me, it seems wise because I like to preserve the lamp life and currently have a DC2 projector HD70. I use it in low lamp mode putting mid to upper 300 lumens on a 108 inch screen. Sometimes, I have ambient light issues as I have many windows in the room and the curtains drawn doesn't always cut it. From what I've read, the Mits allows for 600+ lumens on Low Lamp mode. Plus allowing "5,000" lamp hours. This seems like an obvious upgrade in the brightness category and if it's even close to the hd 70 in terms of PQ then I think it's a wise move for me.


Just my rambling thoughts.

I think the question boils down to for this pj is black level. How does it stand against a DLP like the HC3000 with DC2? lStep forward, lateral move or step backwards? From what I read color accuracy and sharpness are area's this pj stands out in.

exactly. Contrast ratios for DLP's vs LCD's are difficult to take at a pure number value. I've seen LCD's with a larger contrast number that had black levels inferior to DLP's with "lower" contrast ratios.

If the 4900 can indeed compete with (or is in the same ballpark) as the HC3000 then I think I'm going to jump in. I would think it would at least be between the 1000/1500 and the 3000, so it'll be an upgrade over those, but if the contrast isn't as good as the 3000's I just don't want/need 1080p that much and I'll wait while using the 3000.

I think the question boils down to for this pj is black level. How does it stand against a DLP like the HC3000 with DC2? lStep forward, lateral move or step backwards? From what I read color accuracy and sharpness are area's this pj stands out in.

exactly. Contrast ratios for DLP's vs LCD's are difficult to take at a pure number value. I've seen LCD's with a larger contrast number that had black levels inferior to DLP's with "lower" contrast ratios.

If the 4900 can indeed compete with (or is in the same ballpark) as the HC3000 then I think I'm going to jump in. I would think it would at least be between the 1000/1500 and the 3000, so it'll be an upgrade over those, but if tthe contrast isn't as good as the 3000's I just don't want/need 1080p that much and I'll wait while using the 3000.

Here is its contrast ratio as per sound and vision magazine

The best-case full-on/off contrast ratio that I measured was 1,840:1 with the Standard lamp and Auto Iris 2 modes selected — a respectable showing compared with those of other 1080p LCD projectors tested recently.

I'm not sure what the test results are for my HD70 in terms of ACTUAL contrast ratio output.

http://www.soundandvisionmag.com/hdtvs/2476/test-bench-mitsubishi-hc4900-1080p-lcd-front-projector.html

EXACTLY...you've got to think that the 4900 will be a substantial upgrade though. The contrast is 7500 for it and 2500 for the hd1000u. More & more I am unsatisfied with the 1000u's black levels. There are times when watching Blade Runner on HD DVD that left me feeling inferior. :D

I also had the HC1500 for 2 nights and back it went! Blacks where too high for my tastes. I then settled for the DT500. Much better blacks at a cost. The cost I've learned is that some DLP's in order to give good blacks, brightness is sacrificed because of their static irises, and "native" contrast can only go so far by itself. If I can have good brightness w/ good blacks, the better and that's where automatic irises come in when well implemented.

Here are contrast ratios. (scroll down)
Mis 3100 and 1100 (http://www.cine4home.com/reviews/projectors/MitsuHC3100-1100/HC3100-1100Review.htm)
Mits 5000 (http://www.worldlingo.com/S1790.5/translation?wl_srclang=de&wl_trglang=en&wl_url=http://www.cine4home.de/tests/projektoren/MitsubishiHC5000/HC5000Test.htm) (should give approximation, not exact of 4900 w/ improved iris)

In fact, there is a review in Ultimate AV stating that the HD80's backs/contrast is a bit worse than the best DLP's from 3 years ago. So they are not perfect either.

At $1500 give or take after rebates is a no brainer.

Having run this thing for maybe 10 hours, I put in the suggested settings logged in the first or second post of the thread. The first complaint I would make is that you can see the iris do its thing. Not the most fluid when scenes change. It is something like a snapshot to darker levels.

A question- when viewing SD content on my SA8300HD there is invariably a bit of fuzz and something that looks like a small gel coating on the screen around the characters closest to screen. It appears to vibrate slightly. I'm not sure what the technical term for this is but it can be very distracting. It's like the etching around actors is a bit off.

Dino

At $1500 give or take after rebates is a no brainer.That's what I thought too. Mine arrived yesterday and even shooting onto an unironed cream-colored sheet it looked pretty darn good! :p

I'm seriously considering a Draper Multiview E which is a 2.35 screen with 16:9 motorized side curtains, and the High Contrast Grey which is 0.8 gain. I'm probably playing with fire here but would rather have good blacks than bright whites. Anyone think I'm in for disappointment?

Having run this thing for maybe 10 hours, I put in the suggested settings logged in the first or second post of the thread. The first complaint I would make is that you can see the iris do its thing. Not the most fluid when scenes change. It is something like a snapshot to darker levels.

A question- when viewing SD content on my SA8300HD there is invariably a bit of fuzz and something that looks like a small gel coating on the screen around the characters closest to screen. It appears to vibrate slightly. I'm not sure what the technical term for this is but it can be very distracting. It's like the etching around actors is a bit off.

Dino


Man that stinks. It's interesting how many people on this thread aren't really addressing many of the negative concerns about this unit.....I for one, am beginning to get nervous ....between this post and the prior one where the gentleman had to return TWO of this model to bestbuy!!!!!!!!


I don't know for sure why you'd be having issues with the sharpness or border clarity around actors....but I think I remember reading that some of the 480 stuff wasn't exactly a PLUS on this particular model.


J

There are pro and cons with every projector, but in this price range I don't see the blacks as an issue. The backs are better than most emerying out there in this price range and this projector is significantly better in other areas. I think?

Projectorreviews:
“Even on my Firehawk, at 128" diagonal, I find the blacks coming out a bit to bright a gray for my taste. Remember, I'm spoiled, my JVC RS1 - at about twice the price of the HC4900, does the best job on black levels of any fixed pixel (LCD, DLP, LCOS) projector I have tested.

I would think Stewart's Grayhawk would be a great matchup, and for less money, alternates would include Da-Lite's HC Da-Mat, and Carada's affordable HC gray surface. Carada's is one I've never worked with, but from my understanding it is a dark gray, that should match very well. If you want to go larger screen sizes, the Firehawk, and Elite's HC gray surface, would be reasonable options. I'd avoid, in general, white surfaces, unless your primary purpose is non-movie content, such as sports viewing.

Mind you, the blacks, while not extremely dark, are at least comparable to most DLP projectors using the Darkchip 2, and it does a better job, than, say almost any 720p LCD projector. That said, of the LCD 1080p projectors, the HC4900's black levels are lighter than the Panasonic PT-AE1000U, the Epson Home and Pro Cinema 1080, and, of course the Mitsubishi HC5000.”

Projectorcentral:
“…the HC5000 (now discontinued) was rated at 10,000:1 contrast, whereas the HC4900 is rated at 7500:1. However, we don't see a significant difference between the two in actual contrast performance. Moreover, the HC4900 does not fall too far short of the Sanyo Z2000 where contrast is concerned, and the Z2000 is rated at 15,000:1. It strikes us that Mitsubishi was exceptionally conservative in the rating of this particular model.”

Still Projector acknowledges the Z2000 has better blacks and each has areas they excel over the other. Isn’t the Z2000 about a thousand dollars more even after the rebate? Thanks, but I think I’ll get a gray or silver screen as suggested by Projectorreviews above.

I am comparing this model to my old AE900, which has about the same (I think less) usable movie watching ANSI relative to picture quality compared to the HC4900. AND higher contrast/blacks. MHO and disclaimer, I am a newbie and have a lot to learn and am appreciative of this forum. With that I would like to offer an opinion… the more I read this thread I am not sure all the concerns about contrast and blacks are warranted? Isn’t the selection of a projector all relative to the other options you are actually considering and how they meet your needs? Can you use a gray screen or would I even notice the difference unless they were side-by-side? I went through this same process and someone on this forum said that he bet I when get this projector I will just love it (AE900). He was right and ignorance can be bliss. Just make sure you are in the right ballpark and use Projectorcentral’s screen calculator and I think you’ll do just fine. There are a lot of good choices I just don’t see any others within $1,000 right now, do you?

In a week I’ll let you know my impressions.

Right now I am back to reading about screens. I am going through the same mind numbing process as I did with my projector decision until the price drop hit this projector. Now when the Firehawk makes a similar drop I’ll just by the Firehawk. The Firehawk looks like and excellent screen and I am considering (darn you Tryg) a DIY. I am about four hours into this now and there are some exciting choices.. To build or not to build. http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=240074

Tryg recommended reading this link for screens… very interesting!:)

I may even use two screens. I bought the cheapest pull down white I could find to start with and I will likely build a DIY Firehawk gray/silver one for movies (70% of our viewing). I will have the option of keeping both, the white one for the sports and the DIY Firehawk for movies… any comments?

I have some reading to do, but I am leaning toward the DIY Firehawk as the permanent screen with an inexpensive white pull down over it. I need to do a search for people that have used two screens. Then again if the Firehawk performs like the reviews I'll just sell my cheap white one.

I think for first time buyers it's probably an excellent option. For those upgrading from projectors 3-4 years old it's probably a good buy.

For those of us who have good options in place (such as the 1000u and 3000 owners in this thread), the question is whether or not it's a big enough improvement over what we have that we won't be second guessing ourselves in a year when the Panasonic, Epson, and Sanyo can all be had in a similar price range and a whole new crop of improved 1080p projectors are out.

I have a decent amount of ambient light and was leaning towards the Panny AX200 b/c of its brightness. How would the HC4900 compare on that front?

I think for first time buyers it's probably an excellent option. For those upgrading from projectors 3-4 years old it's probably a good buy.

For those of us who have good options in place (such as the 1000u and 3000 owners in this thread), the question is whether or not it's a big enough improvement over what we have that we won't be second guessing ourselves in a year when the Panasonic, Epson, and Sanyo can all be had in a similar price range and a whole new crop of improved 1080p projectors are out.

Do you agree that the Optoma HD70 would be a good enough cause to upgrade to this model ? I'm still debating and this thread is clearly full of mitsu owners......ironic seeing that's a mitsu thread....hmm

Do you agree that the Optoma HD70 would be a good enough cause to upgrade to this model ? I'm still debating and this thread is clearly full of mitsu owners......ironic seeing that's a mitsu thread....hmm

I've never seen the HD70 in action but my impression has been that it's in a similar league to the HD1000u/1500u.

It's hard to say whether or not it's a big enough upgrade...I'm having trouble with that myself. It comes down to the old cost/benefit analysis, especially when you have alternatives out there in projectors like the HC3000U and Sharp DT-500 which can provide superior blacks at a price that's significantly less than the 4900 (especially on ebay/videogon, where you can often find those two at under 7-800 with low hours) to use as high quality holdovers until the real quality low priced 1080p's come out in the next few years.

Save your money everyone! I'm on my second HC4900 and it's voltage tolerances are set way to low. Sometimes it won't turn on for you. If your voltage/power is not maintained at 119V or more, then the 4900 will not turn on. That is rediculous! Everyone's power fluctuates between 120V and 115 V and the 4900 cannot handle any fluctuations in power.
If you are running your furnace, AC, stove, clothes washer, or any other electrical components, then the 4900 will not lite the bulb.
This is a POS projector!

I'm running a firehawk with the 4900. Certainly, every pj has its drawbacks and I have not done anything to tweak the machine other than the putting the settings that were posted on post #1 or 2. These settings were reccomended for the 5000.

Thus far, I can say that for the price it is an excellent machine. The contrast is better than expected and 1080p from where I sit, 12' back on a 100" 16:9 screen is noticeable. To my eyes, the 1080p has a bit more pop and more saturated colors. The blacks are decent but short of mind boggling if you are highly contrast sensitive.

My room does have light ceilings but the screen wall is black and there is a shelf protruding over the screen that is 12" that is also black and helps to mute some of the incoming light. The pj is shelf mounted about 6" above the top of the image- This seems to cause a bit of a trapezoidal effect when trying to fill the screen perfectly with the grid. I don't think there is keystone on this machine. When I watch something, I can't notice. From what I can tell, there is not much, if any light reflecting off the ceiling which is 12" above the center of lens. For whatever reason, other PJs would throw more light at the ceiling.

As for blacks, my best point of reference is when the credits come on at the end of a movie as well as the bar on 2:35 material. During credits it truly looks far lighter than my wall or the velvet border on the scene. 2:35 bar are noticeable while RS-1 people laud their machine for not even noticing the bars thanks to contrast. I'm not sure how well an RS-1 would hold up for contrast in my place though, given the light ceiling.

Intrascene though the blacks are quite good, particularly when pitted against colors.

The colors are accurate and this, is exceptional given the brightness of the unit. The image is brighter than my epson in best watching modes, by a good stretch. I am a bit of a brightness fiend and I have the lamp on low now although the bulb is new.

If I had to complain, the iris is noticeable when it does it thing as I mentioned above. Being able to focus while watching an image would be better than on the grid. I don't think you can do this. The zoom could be a bit better as well- it does not seem to zoom out proportionately so filling the screen just right is tough. My placement may have something to do with this but given the amount of lens shift, one would think this would be easier. The horizontal lens shift is limited and AFAIK, there is no way to tell when you are in the center of the shift. I would prefer to shift the pj an inch or two than use horizontal shifting.

I'll keep y'all posted as I go.

Dino

the noticeable iris would be a deal breaker for me. Interested to see if others see the same thing.

Can any new owners comment on the alignment of the RGB panels? The ProjectorReviews review noted what appears to be relatively serious misconvergence compared to the RS1 and the Epson Home Cinema 1080. It looked like a full pixel of misconvergance. Any hands-on observations?

If your voltage/power is not maintained at 119V or more, then the 4900 will not turn on.How'd you learn this?

Not a problem for me as I monitor voltage and it's typically 124 to 125; I've never seen it below 121...

Save your money everyone! I'm on my second HC4900 and it's voltage tolerances are set way to low. Sometimes it won't turn on for you. If your voltage/power is not maintained at 119V or more, then the 4900 will not turn on. That is rediculous! Everyone's power fluctuates between 120V and 115 V and the 4900 cannot handle any fluctuations in power.
If you are running your furnace, AC, stove, clothes washer, or any other electrical components, then the 4900 will not lite the bulb.
This is a POS projector!
Fix the wiring in your house.

Fix the wiring in your house.

I suppose no other brands have defective units? I can understand being disappointed, but it sounds like more than that? I agree it sounds like the wiring needs to be fixed, but are you sure the problem is in the house? Then again when I get mine I hope I am not making the same post. confused:

...when I get mine I hope I am not making the same post.There is not a single purchase anywhere in the history of AVSforums where every owner was happy.

OTOH if you bought your PJ from ProjectorPeople (above left!) you can return it w/o penalty...

There is not a single purchase anywhere in the history of AVSforums where every owner was happy.

OTOH if you bought your PJ from ProjectorPeople (above left!) you can return it w/o penalty...

Why would there be a penalty with a two year warranty? There should at least be a short grace period...

Has anyone upgrade to the HC4900 from the Infocus 4805? My 4805 now has the big yellow "unglued light-tube" on the side of the picture so I'll be upgrading soon.

Mainly, I want to know how the blacks and shadow details compare to the 4805's. I don't really care if the Mits is somewhat weak in that area compared to other current high rollers, since I haven't been spoiled by those. I just want it to be noticeably better than the 4805's.

Why would there be a penalty with a two year warranty? There should at least be a short grace period...

I think he is saying that PP has no restocking fee, no?

Please go and read a book on how to setup a home theater including all the wiring and then come back when you have learned a few things ;)

Ouch, that's pretty harsh. ...I know a little about home theater but I'm not big on the dealing with electrical stuffs either. In his defense you should be able to buy a projector without having to rewire your house. Seriously. I've owned 3 in the past 6 years and I haven't had to rewire my house or work on electric whatever stuffs etc.......and if I did....I'd call the projector a POS as well.

I think he is saying that PP has no restocking fee, no?That's right--you can return it within x days and <4 hours on the lamp and just get your money back, period. Greater than 4 hours there's a 15% restocking fee, greater than 10 hours no return or exchange, just repair under warranty.

Under all circumstances the purchaser is responsible for "2nd day freight" w/insurance et. al. so there is a cost. But at least you aren't stuck with a pj you don't want. You DO have to respond w/in 7 days of delivery.

Fix the wiring in your house.I *do* think KingKorn might have a problem, particularly as he's said it is a new house. If it were me, I would first double-check that the wire guage into the main panel is correct and not undersized (OTTOMH I think for 200amp service it should be 2/0 guage). Never assume the correct wire has been installed--mine had to be replaced!

Next I would check that all main lugs are properly torqued/tightened down.

Then I would read the 240 and each 120 leg and make certain these are correct. If it's not 240 or greater at the meter I'd get the electric company out to check the transformer and meter wiring.

Save your money everyone! I'm on my second HC4900 and it's voltage tolerances are set way to low. Sometimes it won't turn on for you. If your voltage/power is not maintained at 119V or more, then the 4900 will not turn on. That is rediculous! Everyone's power fluctuates between 120V and 115 V and the 4900 cannot handle any fluctuations in power.
If you are running your furnace, AC, stove, clothes washer, or any other electrical components, then the 4900 will not lite the bulb.
This is a POS projector!

Your correct, nominal voltage in the USA is 120v, however, it can be lower at any particular outlet for a number of reasons. Manufactures take that into account. The HC4900 has a similar power supply to most modern CE product of this type, that is it will operate from 100vac to 240vac (for use in 220v countries) It is very rare to see residential voltage down to near 100v.

The HC4900 has a similar power supply to most modern CE product of this type, that is it will operate from 100vac to 240vac Good catch Rudeross; the 4900 is indeed rated 100-240vac 50/60Hz, so it ought to work in Japan (100vac) or certainly in KingKorn's house regardless!

I know he's PO'ed at the 4900 but it would be nice to get to the bottom of his problem w/two projectors...

BTW among the reasons I bought mine, it shares a number of important "build quality" features with the 6000. I wonder for example if they share power supplies. Does anyone know a source online for the Service Manuals for these?

Good catch Rudeross; the 4900 is indeed rated 100-240vac 50/60Hz, so it ought to work in Japan (100vac) or certainly in KingKorn's house regardless!

I know he's PO'ed at the 4900 but it would be nice to get to the bottom of his problem w/two projectors...

BTW among the reasons I bought mine, it shares a number of important "build quality" features with the 6000. I wonder for example if they share power supplies. Does anyone know a source online for the Service Manuals for these?

This could be due to a known problem with the motherboard which prevents it from striking the bulb with the high voltage charge to ignite it.

This could be due to a known problem with the motherboardPlease provide a link--I thought this was only a problem with the 5000.

Save your money everyone! I'm on my second HC4900 and it's voltage tolerances are set way to low. Sometimes it won't turn on for you. If your voltage/power is not maintained at 119V or more, then the 4900 will not turn on. That is rediculous! Everyone's power fluctuates between 120V and 115 V and the 4900 cannot handle any fluctuations in power.
If you are running your furnace, AC, stove, clothes washer, or any other electrical components, then the 4900 will not lite the bulb.
This is a POS projector!

My power does not fluctuate because I don't hook my equipment directly to unreliable residential power. Residential power only has to meet minimum standards for basic operations. Most people don't suffer from bad power but some do and power companies do not have to do anything about it.

Ouch, that's pretty harsh. ...I know a little about home theater but I'm not big on the dealing with electrical stuffs either. In his defense you should be able to buy a projector without having to rewire your house. Seriously. I've owned 3 in the past 6 years and I haven't had to rewire my house or work on electric whatever stuffs etc.......and if I did....I'd call the projector a POS as well.

he says his house is new construction -it could have problems. New construction is the most likely place to see a wiring problem and if he does have a problem, it needs to be corrected and soon. I have not ever seen an inspector actually plug testing equipment into every outlet, light switch, and light socket yet but I do it for anything I am buying regardless of age. I have found some simple problems and seen a few bad situations. RJ11 and RJ45 wiring should also be tested.

Anyone have any of these units to compare to the HC4900? Maybe a Mits. HC3000 or HC3100 as well? Even an Optoma HD7100/HD7300.

I am curious if anyone has seen this PJ and either the Marantz VP4001/Sharp XVZ3K/DT-500. Wondering how the black levels compare and any other comparisons.

Thanks in advance.

When mine arrives I'll be able to compare it to an Infocus 7210 and a JVC RS1. I may visit my friend to try to compare it to my old BenQ 8720 if I feel like I am up for the drive in the next few weeks.

I am hoping that it looks close enough to the 7210 in terms of sharpness and image depth, but in no way expect it to meet the 8720 or RS1 in contrast. I simply want a large screen for my Mac Mini so I need 1920x1080 to get a useable screen resolution.

I'll get pics up of it all around the new years holiday.

When mine arrives I'll be able to compare it to an Infocus 7210 and a JVC RS1. I may visit my friend to try to compare it to my old BenQ 8720 if I feel like I am up for the drive in the next few weeks.

I am hoping that it looks close enough to the 7210 in terms of sharpness and image depth, but in no way expect it to meet the 8720 or RS1 in contrast. I simply want a large screen for my Mac Mini so I need 1920x1080 to get a useable screen resolution.

I'll get pics up of it all around the new years holiday.

Thanks Jim--Look forward to it.

I would not use a grey screen with this pj unless you are going no larger than 120" screen.Given the reviews that suggested "use a grey screen of the type made for early LCDs" I am looking at High Contrast Grey by Draper 0.8 gain for a 45" tall screen (sometimes 80 wide, mostly 105 wide). Room is pitch dark. Whaddya think?

Can any new owners comment on the alignment of the RGB panels? The ProjectorReviews review noted what appears to be relatively serious misconvergence compared to the RS1 and the Epson Home Cinema 1080. It looked like a full pixel of misconvergance. Any hands-on observations?

I'll try this again since it got lost in the "electrical" flurry...

Do you have a screen yet? I would wait until someone who has tried a grey screen posts their resultsNo, I sure don't. But I need an electric screen, and 2.35:1 AR, and these are not the easiest to come by.

So far I like the Draper Access Multiview because it comes in 105" wide 'scope and a second roller to mask to 16:9. But I think I'd rather try the High Contrast Grey than the Matte White, again based on the reviews I've seen of the 4900's black performance.

This could be due to a known problem with the motherboard which prevents it from striking the bulb with the high voltage charge to ignite it.

Ok, here's the latest on my big turd Mitsubishi 4900. I had my electrician out today (Christmas eve, he wasn't very happy). We checked the voltage on the plug and it ranged from 117V to 121 V. I would say that's well within the range of operation of this piece of crap.

THIS ISN"T A POWER/ELECTRICAL PROBLEM!!! It's a Mitsubishi problem.
So now, is anyone willing and able to help me with this? I refuse to believe that I'm the only one out there that has had 2 of these turds act this way.
Is there an update for the 4900?
Thanks in advance...

Ok, here's the latest on my big turd Mitsubishi 4900. I had my electrician out today (Christmas eve, he wasn't very happy). We checked the voltage on the plug and it ranged from 117V to 121 V. I would say that's well within the range of operation of this piece of crap.

THIS ISN"T A POWER/ELECTRICAL PROBLEM!!! It's a Mitsubishi problem.
So now, is anyone willing and able to help me with this? I refuse to believe that I'm the only one out there that has had 2 of these turds act this way.
Is there an update for the 4900?
Thanks in advance...

Man....I'm getting a little nervous about this. I ordered one already and was contemplating a second for my brother.

Ok, here's the latest on my big turd Mitsubishi 4900. I had my electrician out today (Christmas eve, he wasn't very happy). We checked the voltage on the plug and it ranged from 117V to 121 V. I would say that's well within the range of operation of this piece of crap.

THIS ISN"T A POWER/ELECTRICAL PROBLEM!!! It's a Mitsubishi problem.
So now, is anyone willing and able to help me with this? I refuse to believe that I'm the only one out there that has had 2 of these turds act this way.
Is there an update for the 4900?
Thanks in advance...

There can be other problems besides voltage (floating ground for example). But first, have you taken the projector to another location and plugged it in and tested it with the same results?

Do you have anything else connected to the circuit you use for the projector? Does it have a surge protector perhaps, another appliance (some motor driven devices can be very dirty for example).

Since you've had the same problem with two units, you need to issolate the problem and see if the units work at another location.

It seems strange you'd have the same problem with two different units, but then I've been thourgh four A210 Bluetooth adapters and they've all been bad but I suspect the batteries died on the shelf and they were all old stock even though they came from different sources.

You might also get your power company to check the power with a recorder that would keep track of voltage, ground, amperage, etc on a time recorder to see if the problem is different during different times of the day. Also how many houses are on your step down transformer? You could have a problem that is actually related to a neighbor's house.

Just thought I'd update on the PJ- Have logged about 25 hours thus far and just ran a couple of HD-DVDs off a new Tosh HD-A35.

I set the player to 1080p- Viewed about 30 minutes of 300 and watched Lara Croft Tomb Raider.

I can say now without reservation that this is not perfect projector but I do stand by it as far as bang for the buck- It is a bright machine for sure and is superior I'd say to both the Epson 800, 400, Panny 900, Panny 1000 and the HD70, all of which I've seen at least ten hours or more of action.

My Criticisms:

The black levels are not great and if you are a black level person you won't likely be wildly disappointed but you definitely won't be wowed either. It does not crush blacks but it doesn't deliver in this regard even in a light controlled setting where I ran it with my friend.

The build quality is a little suspect- I don't think the HDMI input is very secure and it takes a good few seconds to read the input. Secondarily, the front two feet on it are not parallel (intentionally) so it is difficult to tell when the projector is straight on a shelf mount. Moreover, the button to release the feet are shoddy and appear to be a bit misaligned if you wish to leave them flat as I do. You can see exposed threads in the screws that clearly show one side (fully in the down position) is a bit higher than the other.

I am unimpressed with how it handles image noise as well- this was clearly true with SD material but the source is always suspect in such a case but even with HD-DVDs it does not offer a very smooth image. You can't do much tweaking over HDMI either although this is common as far as I know.

Colors are dynamite and accurate out of the box- a rich, immersive image and the brightness is great as the bulb will find its way to half brightness.

Just thought I'd offer an update- Still don't think there is anything that can touch this at its price point and I don't have any regrets but thought I'd weigh in a little more impartially as I get to know the machine.

As for King Korn's quandary- I can't speak to that but I do feel your pain. That sucks something fierce.

Dino

Just thought I'd update on the PJ- Have logged about 25 hours thus far and just ran a couple of HD-DVDs off a new Tosh HD-A35.

I set the player to 1080p- Viewed about 30 minutes of 300 and watched Lara Croft Tomb Raider.

I can say now without reservation that this is not perfect projector but I do stand by it as far as bang for the buck- It is a bright machine for sure and is superior I'd say to both the Epson 800, 400, Panny 900, Panny 1000 and the HD70, all of which I've seen at least ten hours or more of action.

My Criticisms:

The black levels are not great and if you are a black level person you won't likely be wildly disappointed but you definitely won't be wowed either. It does not crush blacks but it doesn't deliver in this regard even in a light controlled setting where I ran it with my friend.

The build quality is a little suspect- I don't think the HDMI input is very secure and it takes a good few seconds to read the input. Secondarily, the front two feet on it are not parallel (intentionally) so it is difficult to tell when the projector is straight on a shelf mount. Moreover, the button to release the feet are shoddy and appear to be a bit misaligned if you wish to leave them flat as I do. You can see exposed threads in the screws that clearly show one side (fully in the down position) is a bit higher than the other.

I am unimpressed with how it handles image noise as well- this was clearly true with SD material but the source is always suspect in such a case but even with HD-DVDs it does not offer a very smooth image. You can't do much tweaking over HDMI either although this is common as far as I know.

Colors are dynamite and accurate out of the box- a rich, immersive image and the brightness is great as the bulb will find its way to half brightness.

Just thought I'd offer an update- Still don't think there is anything that can touch this at its price point and I don't have any regrets but thought I'd weigh in a little more impartially as I get to know the machine.

As for King Korn's quandary- I can't speak to that but I do feel your pain. That sucks something fierce.

Dino


Thank you for your input. This is well thought out....well written and helpful.

Much appreciation. Personally as an HD70 owner I was psyched to see you mention in your opinion that it topped this machines performance.

Happy Holidays.

j

Ok, here's the latest on my big turd Mitsubishi 4900. I had my electrician out today (Christmas eve, he wasn't very happy). We checked the voltage on the plug and it ranged from 117V to 121 V. I would say that's well within the range of operation of this piece of crap.

THIS ISN"T A POWER/ELECTRICAL PROBLEM!!! It's a Mitsubishi problem.
So now, is anyone willing and able to help me with this? I refuse to believe that I'm the only one out there that has had 2 of these turds act this way.
Is there an update for the 4900?
Thanks in advance... Thanks for having that done and posting the results. It's the only way to make sure this bug is nailed down and assigned the proper status to help others owners and potential owners. Have you been working with your dealer on this as well? They should be keenly interested in getting the answers as well.

Sorry that your entertainment has become your torment.

There can be other problems besides voltage (floating ground for example). But first, have you taken the projector to another location and plugged it in and tested it with the same results?

Do you have anything else connected to the circuit you use for the projector? Does it have a surge protector perhaps, another appliance (some motor driven devices can be very dirty for example).

Since you've had the same problem with two units, you need to issolate the problem and see if the units work at another location.

It seems strange you'd have the same problem with two different units, but then I've been thourgh four A210 Bluetooth adapters and they've all been bad but I suspect the batteries died on the shelf and they were all old stock even though they came from different sources.

You might also get your power company to check the power with a recorder that would keep track of voltage, ground, amperage, etc on a time recorder to see if the problem is different during different times of the day. Also how many houses are on your step down transformer? You could have a problem that is actually related to a neighbor's house.

Yes, I have taken it off the ceiling and plugged it in as close to my pannel as possible, which is only 6 inches from my panel. There is a plug directly off my panel. Had the same problem, it wouldn't lite the lamp.

No, nothing else is on the circuit, the plug on the ceiling is connected to it's own wire running from the panel. No surge protectors, but I do have a Monster Power HTS 3600 Clean Power filter and meter. It has a VAC guage and my power is always between 124V and 117 V. That is normal.

I am the only house on my step-down transformer.

Once again, I've proven that this isn't a power/electrical issue. I'm not sure why we got on this tangent, but nevertheless, we shall proceed. This is a Mitsubishi projector problem with the interior electronics that won't light the bulb.

I want to know if anyone else is having this problem with the HC 4900...thanks!

some posts deleted: this is one day you guys should get along and help each other please

Happy Holidays!

You have come to the right place to get answers....but please remember AVS is not a customer service forum for Mits. You have to be understand ppl want to help, but also ppl want to discuss and review this projector...so you can't expect this to turn into a total focus on your problems/issues.

I believe you haven't totally isolated the situation until you've driven to a friend's house to test it within their electrical enviroment. Or, better yet...take it to Best Buy tomorrow and plug it in there. Do they have a unit on display? Take their functioning display unit out and plug it into your house.

Right now no one else (to my knowledge) has seen this problem, so your situation is an isolated one until there is more feedback from others....that takes days and weeks..until then you have to take on the burden of running all the traps.

Good Luck and Happy Holidays

Ron

You have come to the right place to get answers....but please remember AVS is not a customer service forum for Mits. You have to be understand ppl want to help, but also ppl want to discuss and review this projector...so you can't expect this to turn into a total focus on your problems/issues.

I believe you haven't totally isolated the situation until you've driven to a friend's house to test it within their electrical enviroment. Or, better yet...take it to Best Buy tomorrow and plug it in there. Do they have a unit on display? Take their functioning display unit out and plug it into your house.

Right now no one else (to my knowledge) has seen this problem, so your situation is an isolated one until there is more feedback from others....that takes days and weeks..until then you have to take on the burden of running all the traps.

Good Luck and Happy Holidays

Ron

There are others that have posted this same problem with the HC5000. I do agree that he should take the projector to another location (not in his house) and try it. Especially since he is having the same problem with two new projectors. That is the quickest and cheapest way to rule out an electrical problem with your house. All you need is the projector, HDMI cable and a DVD player. I did this when my projector and cables were delivered so that I could check everything before installing.

From HC4900 Manual:

Rated voltage: AC100 - 240 V, 50/60 Hz
Power consumption: 2.5 A

Recomendations?.....Check your ground wire

Bye

dixwip how is the black level compared to the Optoma HD70

I am the only house on my step-down transformer.

Once again, I've proven that this isn't a power/electrical issue. I'm not sure why we got on this tangent, but nevertheless, we shall proceed. This is a Mitsubishi projector problem with the interior electronics that won't light the bulb.

I want to know if anyone else is having this problem with the HC 4900...thanks!

Well no one else has reported this problem on the HC4900. If you got it from a local dealer, return it, have another opened in your presence in the store and hooked up and checked. Take that home and see if it works. If it does, you got two duds in a row, if not ....

Or--Call Mits Wednesday morning. If there was a problem with some projectors (cold solder joint, etc) they should know or want to know about it.

We're on page 5 and no one has taken a picture of it in action yet!

To the ones that have it.. I'm disappointed in you :(

We're on page 5 and no one has taken a picture of it in action yet!

To the ones that have it.. I'm disappointed in you :(

Keep in mind, you're posting this on Christmas Day. :confused:

Keep in mind, you're posting this on Christmas Day. :confused:

This thread wasn't started on Christmas Day. :confused:

Screen pics are a bad way to judge the unit since there are so many variables that go into the shot

Not to mention there are a collection of screen shots at projectorreviews.com: http://www.projectorreviews.com/mitsubishi/hc4900/index.php

So what is the real-world brightness of the HC4900 like? Projectorcentral says in Cinema mode it is 688 lumens, but projectorreview says in optimum video mode it is only 400 -- that seems like a huge difference and I'm not sure what accounts for it. PC estimates that even in low power lamp mode, it would still be about 570 lumens. Sound & Vision says on a 100" screen after calibration it is only about 10ftL.

Screen pics are a bad way to judge the unit since there are so many variables that go into the shot

We all know this but still doesn't change the fact we like pics. :)

No one is judging.

Just thought I'd update on the PJ- Have logged about 25 hours thus far... It is a bright machine for sure and is superior I'd say to both the Epson 800, 400, Panny 900, Panny 1000 and the HD70, all of which I've seen at least ten hours or more of action.As a first-time fpj owner I'm very glad to see this, particularly as I started my quest this summer lusting after a Pana AE1000. Then they came-out with the 2000 of course, and then I learned about Mitsu's shutters (being that my HT will be 2.35:1 and I'm gonna zoom) and fell in love with the HC6000. Well, although I well know that the 4900 is quite a drop in features/quality from the 6000, hey, what-do-I-know-this-is-my-very-first. I'm happy to be "in the game" (I thought it would take months for me to get-up the $$/nerve to pop for a 6000) and at a price point where, if I decide I don't LIKE the 4900, I can move-on to something else and not feel like I made a $3K mistake or something...

Wish I had more to shoot onto then a bedsheet right now--focus looks outstanding but that's about all I can tell atm.

My big criticism so far: the pj is so light that it can easily move, even when I detach or attach the lens cover. Not a good thing for staying "registered" with the screen. Thinking I might try making some indentations into the shelf it's on once I'm certain about final positioning.

This thread wasn't started on Christmas Day. :confused:
Thanks...realized that a while back.....most people didn't have this projector on this thread...until well into the Holiday Season....also many still don't have it.....:confused::confused::confused:....I guess you'll just have to remain "disappointed".


Screen pics are a bad way to judge the unit since there are so many variables that go into the shot

Exactly. :)

Nice observation...most people didn't have this projector on this thread...until well into the Holiday Season....also many still don't have it.....Are you okay?

I'm talking to the ones that do have it and perhaps can take a pic if we ask.




Exactly. :)

We all know this but still doesn't change the fact we like pics. :)

No one is judging.


I LOVE the fact you're reading comprehension skills are as sharpe as a marble

from the shots on that review...this does look good. Seriously, alot of those shots from Blu-ray and HD DVD looked great. Black levels looked fine.

If you consider the rebate, the 4900 is around $1500. To best this, it would take another $1200 or so for the Panasonic AE2000. I'm pretty much a believer in getting what one pays for, but getting significantly better blacks from the Panny is worth the xtra money for some?? What we need is for Art (projector reviews.com) and pj central to do another shootout for us obsessive types. :) I include me in that group. :p

from the shots on that review...this does look good. Seriously, alot of those shots from Blu-ray and HD DVD looked great. Black levels looked fine.

If you consider the rebate, the 4900 is around $1500. To best this, it would take another $1200 or so for the Panasonic AE2000. I'm pretty much a believer in getting what one pays for, but getting significantly better blacks from the Panny is worth the xtra money for some?? What we need is for Art (projector reviews.com) and pj central to do another shootout for us obsessive types. :) I include me in that group. :p
Yes, the projector reviews.com shots look fine to me as well. I can't wait to see user shots though. Seeing a projector in a home environment much like mind and reading their impressions does more for me.

Any idea how long this manufacturer rebate will last?

January 31

January 31

I'm going to miss it... :(

I was hoping around March.

We will find out I have a 140" 16X9 screen matte white 1.3 gain. No way will grey work for me so I will post up after I mount it up next week. I am upgrading from the HD1000U so the blacks should be better in addition to the fact I will have the sharpest and most accurate picture available feeding 1080P from the PS3.

Thanks; I am looking forward to your impressions. I'm trying to decide between the hc1500 (great value, super bright) or the hc4900 ($600 more but better in every possible way other than brightness), or just clinging to my 4805 for awhile longer (not easy to do as I have the lighttube problem with six inches of yellow down the right side of the screen). Prices are dropping so quickly that it's tough to decide, but I've definitely got the itch.

I'd really like to get the hc4900 and do the poor man's CIH by zooming 2.35:1 movies, but am not sure the brightness is up to the task (screen would be about 54" x 127").

When mine arrives I'll be able to compare it to an Infocus 7210 and a JVC RS1. I may visit my friend to try to compare it to my old BenQ 8720 if I feel like I am up for the drive in the next few weeks.

I am hoping that it looks close enough to the 7210 in terms of sharpness and image depth, but in no way expect it to meet the 8720 or RS1 in contrast. I simply want a large screen for my Mac Mini so I need 1920x1080 to get a useable screen resolution.

I'll get pics up of it all around the new years holiday.

We will find out I have a 140" 16X9 screen matte white 1.3 gain. No way will grey work for me so I will post up after I mount it up next week. I am upgrading from the HD1000U so the blacks should be better in addition to the fact I will have the sharpest and most accurate picture available feeding 1080P from the PS3.

I am looking forward to both sets of reviews.... I currently have both the IF 7210 and the Mits HD1000U both currently on Elite 1.8 gain screens (135" & 120").

It will be great to hear your comparisons!!

I'd really like to get the hc4900 and do the poor man's CIH by zooming 2.35:1 movies, but am not sure the brightness is up to the task (screen would be about 54" x 127").The screen I have planned now for zooming is 45x105 (to 45x80)...considerably smaller than yours. What distance are you shooting from? Last night I spent some time with my pj shooting onto a cream-colored piece of fabric at 14+ feet. Altho the image far exceeded the size of this fabric (only 33"x64"!!! :() I wanted to watch the whole movie I was testing with, the pj is amazing.

One thing I can definitively comment on I think is the sharpness & panel registration--this appears perfect in all parts of the image.

I am going to have to find something today to project onto (a 5x10 something, or at least a 4x8 piece of sheetrock maybe), this is driving me nuts. I'm at least several weeks away from having a real screen installed--not even purchased yet. :eek:

Are you okay?

I'm talking to the ones that do have it and perhaps can take a pic if we ask.








I LOVE the fact you're reading comprehension skills are as sharpe as a marble

Yes, in fact I did read that....and my skills are just fine. Rather they need no "sharpe" 'ning . Well done. Regardless, you may want to seek help for anger management. I was merely pointing out that it is the holiday season and actually it is a little bizarre that you'd even mention to the thread that you're "Disappointed" in them , because they haven't had time to post pictures. Wow, if that's your life, you need help because there are better things to get disappointed about. :rolleyes: Again, I guess you'll have to stay "sharpe" by yourself and remain terribly disappointed in the fellow bloggers as they haven't made time for you during this holiday season. :o Hold your breath for some photos....

Do AV people have to act like snobs and brats? WOW...I guess I'm "disappointed" lol.

The screen I have planned now for zooming is 45x105 (to 45x80)...considerably smaller than yours. What distance are you shooting from?

I have plenty of flexibility -- it's a basement with about 8 foot ceilings and an extremely long room, so I can mount the projector anywhere I need to, essentially.

Do AV people have to act like snobs and brats? WOW...I guess I'm "disappointed" lol.
I kind of blasted him for that in a post last night as well, then deleted it this morning in the spirit of the holidays. No- most AVS'ers are helpful and agreeable.

I'm really close to pulling the trigger on this unit to replace a 3.5 year old Optoma DLP that has served me well. I would like more feedback from those coming from especially 480p DLP's like the 4805 and my Optoma, but I guess we get what we get. :) I've appreciated those taking the time to share their impressions thus far. My only concern is the black levels.

I also want to get some Monoprice cables and 4-1 HDMI switchbox on order so that I'm ready to rock and tear into the ceiling and walls right after I test the projector. I plan to run two HDMI cables up to the projector and use an HDMI-DVI adapter on one of them for my HTPC. I hope this "future proofs" me in that if one HDMI cable failed, I would have another one run or if I upgrade later to a projector with multiple HDMI ports I would be set. Just wondering if anyone has any feedback on trying those HDMI-DVI adapters on a 25' cable and if there were issues. I can use the "never been used before" SVideo cable as pulling wire. :D I don't want to tear into this sheetrock again and there isn't really the real estate to put a conduit in at the critical corner where the back wall meets the ceiling.

Cheers all! Happy New Year!

Thanks; I am looking forward to your impressions. I'm trying to decide between the hc1500 (great value, super bright) or the hc4900 ($600 more but better in every possible way other than brightness), or just clinging to my 4805 for awhile longer (not easy to do as I have the lighttube problem with six inches of yellow down the right side of the screen). Prices are dropping so quickly that it's tough to decide, but I've definitely got the itch.

HC4900 is stunning value IMO and really puts the pressure on the new Panny and Sanyo, not to mention the more expensive LCOS machines.
It also has the D6 1080P panels which eliminate some of the old problems with LCD such as vertical banding.

I kind of blasted him for that in a post last night as well, then deleted it this morning in the spirit of the holidays. No- most AVS'ers are helpful and agreeable.

I'm really close to pulling the trigger on this unit to replace a 3.5 year old Optoma DLP that has served me well. I would like more feedback from those coming from especially 480p DLP's like the 4805 and my Optoma, but I guess we get what we get. :) I've appreciated those taking the time to share their impressions thus far. My only concern is the black levels.

I also want to get some Monoprice cables and 4-1 HDMI switchbox on order so that I'm ready to rock and tear into the ceiling and walls right after I test the projector. I plan to run two HDMI cables up to the projector and use an HDMI-DVI adapter on one of them for my HTPC. I hope this "future proofs" me in that if one HDMI cable failed, I would have another one run or if I upgrade later to a projector with multiple HDMI ports I would be set. Just wondering if anyone has any feedback on trying those HDMI-DVI adapters on a 25' cable and if there were issues. I can use the "never been used before" SVideo cable as pulling wire. :D I don't want to tear into this sheetrock again and there isn't really the real estate to put a conduit in at the critical corner where the back wall meets the ceiling.

Cheers all! Happy New Year!
I would also get the following cables in addition to the HDMI:

1. Component Cables (Digital is not very reliable all the time)
2. 12V trigger cable if you plan to connect the PJ to the screen
3. Power cable from your UPS/Power surge protector ( Its hard to get a UPS on the ceiling)

With the HDMI cables, make sure you don't bend them beyond the minimum bend radius of the cable. I use a 35ft HDMI Monoprice cable without any problems which also works fine with the DVI adapter.

Hi
Has anyone gotten a projector in a white case? It's listed on the Mits website, but when I ordered mine this morning they couldn't find a part number for a white version.

I just wonder if it's a remnant from a cut and paste of the 5000 specs to the 4900 page or if someone actually has gotten one.

John

Well, add one more person for whom the recent price drop and rebate was enough to convince me to pull the trigger for an upgrade. I expect I'm in for quite a step-up. I've been running a Denon DVD-3800 to an Infocus X1 with Screenplay 4800 firmware for over 4.5 years and was planning on upgrading in May when I hit the 5 year mark, but the recent pricing and performance was enough to convince me to place my order today with one of the forum sponsors for the HC4900 and an Oppo Digital DV-981HD.

I'm not too worried about all the black-level paranoia in this thread since it's got to be an improvement over my 4.5 year old budget projector shown below:

http://www.martinloganowners.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=4609&stc=1&d=1176135522

...the recent pricing and performance was enough to convince me to place my order today with ProjectorPeople for the HC4900Good pj, great reseller; congratulations.

And the "black-level paranoia" is well-put also--for less than $2K this can't be a perfect projector, but it's amazingly CLOSE to perfect IMO (and budget)!!! :D

Good pj, great reseller; congratulations.

And the "black-level paranoia" is well-put also--for less than $2K this can't be a perfect projector, but it's amazingly CLOSE to perfect IMO (and budget)!!! :D

Yes. I've never dealt with this forum sponsor before, but their rave reviews here gave me confidence. I was able to haggle a little and save a few extra bucks, but truth be known, I would have taken them up at their listed prices, which were competitive. The purchase experience (so far) was great; I have no complaints.

Re: black-level...I look at it this way: I'm a budget projector guy and reasonably patient. I wanted 1080p 5 years ago, but back then I'd probably have paid something on par with the price of a BMW 5-series and still not gotten a projector as good as I expect the HC4900 to be. 4.5 years ago I got the X1 for a good price. It was a compromise, but I've enjoyed it and definitely gotten my money's worth out of it. This time around, after the rebate, the sale of my X1 to a buddy and some x-mas money, I got this projector for less out of pocket than I paid for the X1. When I can get a substantial upgrade again for under a grand in a few years, I might jump again, but frankly, I can't think of any must-have feature I really care about that this projector doesn't have. It really seems to be at that knee-of-the-curve in price-performance, where any trivial incremental performance improvements are going to add substantial cost.

While I'm waiting for the next big thing in a few years, however, I'll surely be enjoying what I've got.

i just ordered one through projector people, mentioned AVS and they took another $100 off the price

i just ordered one through projector people, mentioned AVS and they took another $100 off the price

j98c,

you have a PM!!

i just ordered one through projector people, mentioned AVS and they took another $100 off the price

Delete...heard and understood.

See sticky: Do Not Post Deals, Dealers, or Street Pricing

I doubt the mods would delete the entire thread because of all the blathering, but they might!

So what is the real-world brightness of the HC4900 like? Projectorcentral says in Cinema mode it is 688 lumens, but projectorreview says in optimum video mode it is only 400 -- that seems like a huge difference and I'm not sure what accounts for it. PC estimates that even in low power lamp mode, it would still be about 570 lumens. Sound & Vision says on a 100" screen after calibration it is only about 10ftL.

After agonizing over screen choices for this projector, and reading everything I could find on this forum and others, I took the leap (my first) and bought a 92" Da-lite 2.2 gain white screen. I figured if the projector came in on the lower end, I would probably be fine. If it came in on the higher end, I could just put in a ND filter, and still be about right. I also didn't want to worry about possibly losing any color from shifting or dullness issues with a gray screen since this projector is so accurate. With the higher gain screen I should still have great ambient light control. Hopefully I can also watch this one in the daytime if I crank it up, something I probably couldn't do with a low gain <1 gray screen.

I also had installation issues (wife) so my screen had to be portable which greatly limited my choices. Not really a concern with most of the forum readers, but there are a few of us out there so that's why I posted this. Frankly, since this is my first real home theater, I'm pretty excited to see how it turns out.

I also had installation issues (wife) so my screen had to be portable which greatly limited my choices. Not really a concern with most of the forum readers, but there are a few of us out there so that's why I posted this. Frankly, since this is my first real home theater, I'm pretty excited to see how it turns out.

Why not do what my friend has done. Make a fixed framed screen the size you want, with mounting screws. When you want to watch a film, you hang the screen. When you've finished, store the screen away in a box room/under the bed etc, and hang a picture in its place (on the same screws)

Please let us know how this unit does with brightness on larger screens. I am planning on a fairly large 49"H x 117"W screen. All this time I thought 1080P was outside of my $ reach, but this is a no brainer 1080P w/ motorized lens shift and zoom. That just saved me a lot of money on a lens / scope set up, providing the brightness works out.

BTW, will be using SMX matt white screen Gain 1.1 I think.

Why not do what my friend has done. Make a fixed framed screen the size you want, with mounting screws. When you want to watch a film, you hang the screen. When you've finished, store the screen away in a box room/under the bed etc, and hang a picture in its place (on the same screws)

Thanks for your idea. I actually did think about something similar, although it would have to be out several feet from the wall as we have furniture along the wall. If I could have drilled into our ceiling, I really would have preferred a ceiling mounted pull-down screen. We have a very old house with allot of crown mouldings, trim, etc., and antique furniture, so just getting her this far has literally taken years. No complaints though, it's on the way!

Please let us know how this unit does with brightness on larger screens. I am planning on a fairly large 49"H x 117"W screen. All this time I thought 1080P was outside of my $ reach, but this is a no brainer 1080P w/ motorized lens shift and zoom. That just saved me a lot of money on a lens / scope set up, providing the brightness works out.

BTW, will be using SMX matt white screen Gain 1.1 I think.

Will do!

..I also had installation issues (wife)....

...so just getting her this far has literally taken years...
LOL- all the while feeling your pain. :p I'd give anything to have a dedicated room. This setup is taking up ~1/2 of the primary family room downstairs, so that would invoke- ....... compromise. :D

I also had installation issues (wife) so my screen had to be portable which greatly limited my choices. Not really a concern with most of the forum readers, but there are a few of us out there so that's why I posted this. Frankly, since this is my first real home theater, I'm pretty excited to see how it turns out.

Most of the wives I know are the "Antitheater" !!!

Most of the wives I know are the "Antitheater" !!!To other first-timers who may be lurking here: just throwing a big image on a piece of cloth greatly impressed my "antitheater" wife. Ordering a (more expensive than the projector) screen today!

Laserfan, what screen did you pick? Must be a nice one if it is more than the projector....

I was looking through the 4900 user manual and it states that when mounted in a ceiling configuration that the image may be darker than tabletop mounting. It said it was normal. Doesn't that seem odd. I would think it would be the same provided it has the same throw distance. Any thoughts?

I was looking through the 4900 user manual and it states that when mounted in a ceiling configuration that the image may be darker than tabletop mounting. It said it was normal. Doesn't that seem odd. I would think it would be the same provided it has the same throw distance. Any thoughts?
I read that was normal for all projectors and had nothing to do with the projector but the screen you're projecting on.. I'll try to find this comment.

To other first-timers who may be lurking here: just throwing a big image on a piece of cloth greatly impressed my "antitheater" wife. Ordering a (more expensive than the projector) screen today!

Yea, I hear you. My wife was the same way when I first ordered mine! She thought it was pretty cool. However, now, I think she just wants her room back...so the compromise will be a motorized screen because often times to "surf" tv etc...we use our flatpanel inthe same room.

BTW.>>>What screen did you go with? I'm torn between a grey higher contrast screen or a closer to 1.1 ish gain white matte type screen.

I was looking through the 4900 user manual and it states that when mounted in a ceiling configuration that the image may be darker than tabletop mounting. It said it was normal. Doesn't that seem odd. I would think it would be the same provided it has the same throw distance. Any thoughts?I read that was normal for all projectors and had nothing to do with the projector but the screen you're projecting on.. I'll try to find this comment.
Found it!

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=8404602&highlight=manual#post8404602

I was looking through the 4900 user manual and it states that when mounted in a ceiling configuration that the image may be darker than tabletop mounting. It said it was normal. Doesn't that seem odd. I would think it would be the same provided it has the same throw distance. Any thoughts?

I think you'll find this is more likely with a high gain screen (such as a glass bead) where the light rays are returned towards the lens. The viewer being on a lower plane would be off axis more in that case with the projector ceiling mounted rather than table height.

That's why theatres use low gain screens with a wider angle of view the exception being 3-D which requires a highly directional screen.

Well I went ahead and pulled the trigger on this pj. I will have about 12 feet of throw distance and there is ambient light in the room.. Can anybody reccomend a good / reasonably priced electric screen? I guess I will get it setup and point it at a wall at first too see what size I prefer then go from there?

when mounted in a ceiling configuration that the image may be darker than tabletop mounting.I think others have said already--it depends on how far off-axis the pj is, and your viewing angle, and screen type, and...

she just wants her room back...so the compromise will be a motorized screen because often times to "surf" tv etc...we use our flatpanel inthe same room. BTW.>>>What screen did you go with? I'm torn between a grey higher contrast screen or a closer to 1.1 ish gain white matte type screen.That's what we're doing! In fact, the wife insisted on keeping our 60" RPTV so I'm getting a motorized screen that's stowed except for movie spectaculars. Then it drops-down in front of the 60" HDTV hiding it.

I guess I will get it setup and point it at a wall at first too see what size I prefer then go from there?Yes; I was going to get a screen first but this makes way more sense to get the pj and experiment.

I was going to get a High Contrast Grey Draper Multiview until I found the Da-Lite Dual Masking Electrol w/High Contrast Matte White. This latter is grey too but has a 1.1 gain vs. the Draper which has only 0.8. I want to keep my 4900 in "low" lamp mode so 0.8 makes me nervous. Da-Lite's "Dual Masking" electric screen has two motors & two rollers, one for (in my selection) a 2.35 AR screen at 45x106 and the other for side masks that make it into a 45x80" 16:9. Wish me luck, this puppy's pricey... :p

Well I went ahead and pulled the trigger on this pj. I will have about 12 feet of throw distance and there is ambient light in the room.. Can anybody reccomend a good / reasonably priced electric screen? I guess I will get it setup and point it at a wall at first too see what size I prefer then go from there?
What size screen are we looking at?

That's what we're doing! In fact, the wife insisted on keeping our 60" RPTV so I'm getting a motorized screen that's stowed except for movie spectaculars. Then it drops-down in front of the 60" HDTV hiding it.


I was going to get a High Contrast Grey Draper Multiview until I found the Da-Lite Dual Masking Electrol w/High Contrast Matte White. This latter is grey too but has a 1.1 gain vs. the Draper which has only 0.8. I want to keep my 4900 in "low" lamp mode so 0.8 makes me nervous. Da-Lite's "Dual Masking" electric screen has two motors & two rollers, one for (in my selection) a 2.35 AR screen at 45x106 and the other for side masks that make it into a 45x80" 16:9. Wish me luck, this puppy's pricey... :p


Very cool. Good Luck! Also why are some people choosing the screen with the 16:9 and 2.35 capability??? Because the Mits doesn't change NON HD Signals?

Just curious.

What size screen are we looking at?

As big as I can!! Hopefully atleast a 108" screen..

As big as I can!! Hopefully atleast a 108" screen..

108" is what I'm thinking about as well.

As big as I can!! Hopefully atleast a 108" screen..
If you're on a budget the Grandview range (http://www.projectorcentral.com/Grandview-screen-suppliers.htm) is well worth considering. You will see Grandview screens under a few different names such as Beamax, Sapphire. The giveaway is to look at the case design. Grandview have patented their innovative bracket system so any other manufacturer wanting to copy it will have second thoughts. If the screen has this bracket then you know where it's made!

The non tab tensioned Grandview range of manual or electric screens uses a multi layer fibreglass material which is very resistant to rippling or edge curl. It has a gain of 1 and is ideal for all types of projector.

Thanks for the notes on the ceiling mount and brightness correlation. I figured it might be something having to do w/ the screen gain and positioning.

jkenned, Quite a few projectors do not allow scaling of HD signals. So the aspect ratio change will have to come from the source (HD satelite / cable, DVD player,etc). However it rarely comes into play except maybe to stretch 4:3 content. For using a 2.35 screen you have to either zoom the picture out or use a anamorphic lens to change the picture to the wider content. The 4900 should be an excellent choice for zooming to 2.35 since it has the powered zoom and lens shift. Thats one of the main reasons it has my interest (beisdes the 1080 resolution and newer LCD panels). Refer to the Constant Height section of the forum.

...why are some people choosing the screen with the 16:9 and 2.35 capability??? Because the Mits doesn't change NON HD Signals?I don't understand the "NON HD Signals" question--both HD and SD DVDs can be optically zoomed to fill a wider screen when desired.

I'm going 2.35 45x106 for my main screen because it's the way many (most?) movies these days are filmed & thus meant to be seen. It will make my Home Theater *look like* a Theater, and will eliminate "black bars" above & below.

But even for 16:9 movies this screen (now 45x80, for 92" diagonal) will be 50% bigger than my 60" HDTV.

We'll use the HDTV to watch TV shows, probably not much else i.e. for any DVD we'll drop the big screen.

Thanks gentlemen.

Bump for screen shots.
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=12358748#post12358748

Bump for screen shots.Gorgeous images--looks like there are some stuck-on pixels, though? Left sunglass in 2nd shot, corner of police officer's mouth in 3rd (for position). Say it ain't so. :(

Gorgeous images--looks like there are some stuck-on pixels, though? Left sunglass in 2nd shot, corner of police officer's mouth in 3rd (for position). Say it ain't so. :(

Man you are getting me worried :confused:. I have to wait till this evening to find out if it is camera or the PJ or something else like HD DVD vs Blu-Ray thing :D . I don't see the stuck pixel on the Spiderman screen shots though.

Bump for screen shots.
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=12358748#post12358748

Thanks for the screen shots seyak! I am impressed. I do not have a HD source, yet, but have been very happy with the brightness and contrast. I love the projector so far with a DIY painted screen (light gray). It was a huge hit at Christmas dinner and had a hard time pulling everyone away from the screen to eat even with only a SD source.

Thanks for the screen shots seyak! I am impressed. I do not have a HD source, yet, but have been very happy with the brightness and contrast. I love the projector so far with a DIY painted screen (light gray). It was a huge hit at Christmas dinner and had a hard time pulling everyone away from the screen to eat even with only a SD source.

If you are impressed by the SD, trust me a HD source would freak you out.

You know? I was just thinking here... This projector is almost cheap enough to buy as a backup. :) A little on the expensive side compared to a warranty, but man the benefits as compared to a warranty are significant.

My HC4900 arrived yesterday and I have some initial impressions. This is replacing a Sanyo Z3 I have had since May of 2005 that has almost 1700 hours on the original bulb. I am projecting onto a homemade 110" screen that is using white curtain blackout material. Components in the chain are an Onkyo 805, DirecTV HR-250 HD receiver, Xbox 360 with HD-DVD player, and a HTPC with the new ATI Radeon 3870HD video card (HDMI out) and an HD-DVD drive. The HC4900 is being fed via an HDMI cable out of the Onkyo 805.

The ceiling mount that I use for the Sanyo will not work with the Mitsubishi, so I will have to order a proper ceiling mount. But in the meantime, I used one of my B&W 604S3 shipping cartons to set the HC4900 right behind my theater seating and that is working very well. It is around 14 feet from the screen. I have the HC4900 set to low lamp mode using the standard factory settings-no tweaking has been done yet. My theater room is completely light controlled, so ambient light is not usually a factor.

Wow. I know that isn't a very 'technical' term to describe the picture quality of this projector, but that was the first thing out of my mouth upon seeing HD content on it for the first time. Very sharp images, very good color, nice brightness (lumen output)-just an overall excellent image. Now was it a night and day difference over my Sanyo Z3? No, it's not-however, the Z3 was one of the best 720p LCD projectors when it came out, and in my opinion can more than hold it's own with the current models. But the HC4900 is an upgrade in my setup, and the difference is between them can be detected. I would like to have a brand new bulb in the Z3 so that I could make a better comparison, but I still believe the HC4900 has a definite advantage. The amount of extra detail in the picture is very noticeable to me, and makes viewing more lifelike. The increased resolution does away with the screen door effect which the Z3 had (although I never noticed the SDE at my normal viewing distance) and takes away the pixelation I had when viewing web pages on the HTPC.

Now onto what everyone has been asking about-black levels and contrast. I can only compare it to the Z3 obviously, but I believe the Z3 was pretty good in this regard when it was released. The HC4900 is better, especially with shadow detail-that is one thing that was an almost night and day difference between it and the Z3. I put in a couple of games on the Xbox 360 and couldn't believe how much better I could see the details on games with dark scenes. After looking at pictures taken of other projectors online and their black levels, I can see where the HC4900 is not quite as good as the some of the other 1080p models out there. However, the black levels are still pretty good and really shouldn't be an issue with anyone that is interested in the HC4900.

Overall, this is a very good 1080p projector-but with the current $500 rebate this is a superb projector that probably can't be beat in its price range. After only a few hours of viewing, I am very impressed and happy with my purchase. If anyone has any questions, I will try my best to answer them.

Eric Giles

Thanks for the update Eric.

Can you comment on the alignment of the RGB panels (the bug-a-boo of all 3 panel devices)? The ProjectorReviews review noted what appears to be relatively serious misconvergence compared to the RS1 and the Epson Home Cinema 1080. It looked like a full pixel of misconvergance. Any hands-on observations?

Thanks,
Scott

Bump for screen shots.
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=12358748#post12358748
Thank you very much.

Does anyone know what LCD panels it uses. D6 or D7? None of the literature says anything other than C2fine. I assume it is D6 since the blacks suppossedly aren't the darkest. Either way, I am sure it will still be a good upgrade for me coming from a Panny 300U w/ 800:1 contrast ratio

Does anyone know what LCD panels it uses.If you google HC4900 and D6 it'll turn-up a few hits.

ScottS FYI I could not find any evidence of panel mis-alignment on my 4900.

I'm wondering if the 4900 will become the new 4805 in terms of being the default "projector of choice". It certainly seems to have the bang-for-buck value that the 4805 did in its prime.

Does anyone know what LCD panels it uses. D6 or D7? None of the literature says anything other than C2fine. I assume it is D6 since the blacks suppossedly aren't the darkest. Either way, I am sure it will still be a good upgrade for me coming from a Panny 300U w/ 800:1 contrast ratio
Mitsubishi is not using D7 panels in their new models (HC4900,H6000 both are still using D6).

Sanyo, Epson and Panasonic are using D7.

With that being said there other things you must consider.

Peter Putman's review of the Sanyo didn't seem too favorable. I think he actually liked the D6 Mitsubishi better.

Early reviews(Putman) and previews(cine4home) seem to indicate that for a D7 projector, the Sanyo's contrast isn't that good. Also, the iris isn't nearly as effective as Panasonic's.

In addition to this, Projector Central has implied that the Panasonic is as good or better than the Sony VW60 which is well over $1000 higher.

Thanks for the update Eric.

Can you comment on the alignment of the RGB panels (the bug-a-boo of all 3 panel devices)? The ProjectorReviews review noted what appears to be relatively serious misconvergence compared to the RS1 and the Epson Home Cinema 1080. It looked like a full pixel of misconvergance. Any hands-on observations?

Thanks,
Scott
Scott-

I have to admit, I do not know how to check for that. If you will let me know how, I will tell you what I see later on today.

Eric

Hey Seyak and Laserfan,

I don't want to start a mass hysteria or anything, but it looks like the HC4900 that Art did a review on looks like it has a dead pixel as well. However he didn't mention it. Look through the screen caps and there is a white dot in there. Towards the top of the screen a little left of dead center. I hope Mitz QC isn't bad. I though dead pixels on LCD's is relatively rare these days.

http://www.projectorreviews.com/mitsubishi/hc4900/imagequality.php

Hey Seyak and Laserfan,

I don't want to start a mass hysteria or anything, but it looks like the HC4900 that Art did a review on looks like it has a dead pixel as well. However he didn't mention it. Look through the screen caps and there is a white dot in there. Towards the top of the screen a little left of dead center. I hope Mitz QC isn't bad. I though dead pixels on LCD's is relatively rare these days.

http://www.projectorreviews.com/mitsubishi/hc4900/imagequality.php
Just for the record-I haven't seen any dead pixels on my 4900.

Eric

Anyone know what Mitsubishi's warranty policy is on dead/stuck pixels? I know with my Optoma that they would fix it if even one pixel was dead/stuck. I am not as familar with LCD's and what the manufacturers consider "within spec".

You're right- let's not start a panic. :)

Thanks for the review Eric... What kind of mount did you have? A universal one or something built for the Sanyo?

Thanks!

Hey Seyak and Laserfan,

I don't want to start a mass hysteria or anything, but it looks like the HC4900 that Art did a review on looks like it has a dead pixel as well. However he didn't mention it. Look through the screen caps and there is a white dot in there. Towards the top of the screen a little left of dead center. I hope Mitz QC isn't bad. I though dead pixels on LCD's is relatively rare these days.

http://www.projectorreviews.com/mitsubishi/hc4900/imagequality.php

White? That would take all three panels on. If all three were off it would be black, then of course you have various combinations but more than a single stuck on or off would be rare indeed. BTW I couldn't see it when I looked.

Thanks for the review Eric... What kind of mount did you have? A universal one or something built for the Sanyo?

Thanks!
No problem-I know it isn't much of a review, and I only viewed it for about 4 hours or so-but as I said, so far I am very happy.

The mount I had was one I bought off of ebay back late 2005. It is a universal mount, but it specifically said it was for the Sanyo PLV-Z3. It came with different adapters, mounting legs, and different sized screws-but in my ignorance I threw all of those away over a year ago. Hey, my projector is mounted-what the heck would I ever need these for?? Hindsight is always 20/20 isn't it? :mad:

Not sure which way I am going to go now, as I really don't want to have to take down the exisiting mount from the ceiling and drill new holes so that I can install a Chief mount. Anyone have any suggestions?

Eric

After following this thread as well as the relevant Epson, Sanyo, and Panasonic threads, I ordered an HC4900 from the Projector Place the day after Xmas. It was a very, very good price and shipping was free. It arrived today, so I'm ready to take it down to the media room and give it a go.

It will replace my Seleco SVD800 HD CRT projector, which I like a lot for its excellent picture, but I'm tired of its size, heat, and multiple fan noise.

Thanks to all who provided useful information in all these threads, but especially to those who provided insight into the HC4900 here.

I'll report back later about my impressions and comparisons to the Seleco.

Eric, can you post a pic of the mounting holes on the bottom of the Mitsubishi? I may have a solution for you. I bought a universal mount from monoprice and it worked for my Z5 and works well with my Panasonic AE2000. I might pic up this HC4900 for comparison to my AE2000. My father-in-law is ready to upgrade :)

Anyone know what Mitsubishi's warranty policy is on dead/stuck pixels? I know with my Optoma that they would fix it if even one pixel was dead/stuck. I am not as familar with LCD's and what the manufacturers consider "within spec".

Mitsubishi seems to have a pretty lax requirement when it comes to dead pixels. On page EN-39 of the manual in the troubleshooting section it lists the following problem:

"Red, blue, and green dots appear in projected images. Black dots appear in projected images."

The "solution" is probably not what you wanted to hear:

"This phenomenon is unique to LCD projector and isn't a product malfunction. (A small number of pixels always stay on or off, which are not malfunctions. More than 99.99% of the pixels are effective.)"

Taking them literally at the 99.99% effective pixels metric literally means 622 pixels could be bad and Mitsubishi would claim there is no malfunction. (1920 * 1080 * 3 * .0001 = 622) I'd be pretty bummed if my new projector had 600 bad pixels. I could probably live with a few, though.

White? That would take all three panels on. If all three were off it would be black, then of course you have various combinations but more than a single stuck on or off would be rare indeed. BTW I couldn't see it when I looked.

I did see what he was talking about, still not a big deal. It's in the middle of the photos near the top.

thanks for the good eye fillydee.. :cool:

Scott-

I have to admit, I do not know how to check for that. If you will let me know how, I will tell you what I see later on today.

Eric

Eric, put up a grid (normally included in the menu for focusing) and then walk up to the screen. You should see white lines on a black background. If the lines have a red or blue stripe at the top/bottom/side that is mis-convergence of the panels.

You can determine how many/few pixels or mis-convergence by checking the number of visible pixels when you are right up close to the screen.

I received my 4900 yesterday from Projector People. I have less than four hours on the lamp to decide if this will replace my Panasonic 900, so I am being very cautious in using it until I make my decision. I put one hour on it yesterday, and another forty minutes on it today. I thought that I would pass on some quick observations.

It is definitely sharper AND more detailed with HD DVD than my Panasonic. Color is very nice also. However, it has a few quirks that I am having problems dealing with.

There is no main power switch on the back of the unit like the Panasonic has. The manual tells you to unplug it after it has cooled off. Wierd, but I guess I can get used to it.

The manual also tells you to have the unit out 20" from the back wall. They say this is so the venting can work properly, but I don't understand this, as the intake and outflow vents are on the sides of the projector, not the back. I am using my projector(s) in a quite small room, approximately 10' wide, x 11' deep, and I need to have the projector closer than 20" from the back wall, so I literally have room to sit.

Another potential problem. There is no manual zoom or focus, only electronic. I like to do the "poor man's" constant height viewing in my system, but when you press the zoom/focus button (or the lens shift button) the picture goes away, and you get a green grid to look at. This makes it a little dificult to properly zoom and position the image to work in my 2/40:1 screen.

These are just a few initial observations for those people on the fence about this projector. It is STILL a fantastic deal for a 1080p projector after the $500 rebate. I will just have to decide if it will work for me. It sure is nice to be able to walk right up to the screen and check for sharp focus though. (With the Panasonic, I'm constantly tweaking the focus to try to make it look sharper!)

Eric, put up a grid (normally included in the menu for focusing) and then walk up to the screen. You should see white lines on a black background. If the lines have a red or blue stripe at the top/bottom/side that is mis-convergence of the panels.

You can determine how many/few pixels or mis-convergence by checking the number of visible pixels when you are right up close to the screen.
Scott-

Thanks for letting me know. So I put up the crosshatch test pattern that has green bars and got right up to the screen. I could see then that my focus was just slightly off, so I adjusted the focus so that it was basically as close to perfect as I could get it.

I ran the test pattern again, and for the life of me I cannot see anything but a perfectly formed dotted green line everywhere-no other colored pixels are visible near the main lines.

Maybe it is possible the reviewers received a misadjusted or damaged unit, but I can honestly say that I don't see any misconvergence at all.

Glad to know that I received a good one!

Eric

OK - I'm retracting my request on black levels...fwiw, we're all in agreement that the 4900 is pretty much a stripped 5000, right? In that case, you'd have to give me one. Today I went and checked out what was purported to be a fairly well setup 5000 displayed onto a fixed Stewart screen - gray, tho I can't tell you the model.

Sorry to disappoint, but I'd sure tell anyone buying to go look at one first, if at all possible. Shadow detail on the 5000 was only average at best, and solids looked as shaky as a 2x dlp. Plus there was visible banding, and definite panel misalignment; admittedly, only visible on text and credits, but a good pixels width of the red being low, and the blue being high. If my crt was that far off, I'd be fixing the convergence before the next film.

I admit - I saw the 5000; but I have seen nothing anywhere claiming that the 4900 outperforms the 5000. Enjoy - I'm extremely happy that I saw one before placing the order. (like many of you, online price + rebate = tempting. In this case, you're getting what you pay for.)

OK - I'm retracting my request on black levels...fwiw, we're all in agreement that the 4900 is pretty much a stripped 5000, right? In that case, you'd have to give me one. Today I went and checked out what was purported to be a fairly well setup 5000 displayed onto a fixed Stewart screen - gray, tho I can't tell you the model.

Sorry to disappoint, but I'd sure tell anyone buying to go look at one first, if at all possible. Shadow detail on the 5000 was only average at best, and solids looked as shaky as a 2x dlp. Plus there was visible banding, and definite panel misalignment; admittedly, only visible on text and credits, but a good pixels width of the red being low, and the blue being high. If my crt was that far off, I'd be fixing the convergence before the next film.

I admit - I saw the 5000; but I have seen nothing anywhere claiming that the 4900 outperforms the 5000. Enjoy - I'm extremely happy that I saw one before placing the order. (like many of you, online price + rebate = tempting. In this case, you're getting what you pay for.)
Sorry to hear of your experience, but all I can say is this-I own a 4900 and I am not seeing any of the issues you describe. I have to say in my casethat I got more than what I paid for.

Then again, maybe I just got lucky. :)

Eric

Hey Seyak and Laserfan,

I don't want to start a mass hysteria or anything, but it looks like the HC4900 that Art did a review on looks like it has a dead pixel as well. However he didn't mention it. Look through the screen caps and there is a white dot in there. Towards the top of the screen a little left of dead center. I hope Mitz QC isn't bad. I though dead pixels on LCD's is relatively rare these days.

http://www.projectorreviews.com/mitsubishi/hc4900/imagequality.php

I carefully looked at the picture this evening and I didn't find the dead pixel this time :) . I'm not sure why it showed up in the screen shots.

Does this projector have offset? In other words, assuming lens shift is set to default zeroed position, would the lens be in the vertical and horizontal center of the screen?

Hello. Could anyone try to connect his Mitsu 4900 to PC (not Xbox 360) and check the possibility of projecting 1:1 pixel ratio 1920x1080 screen using VGA or DVI-D input?

So I put up the crosshatch test pattern that has green bars and got right up to the screen.

...and for the life of me I cannot see anything but a perfectly formed dotted green line everywhere-no other colored pixels are visible near the main lines.

You NEED a pattern with single pixel white lines, otherwise it won't work. By projecting a single color line, you're shutting off the other 2 colors and not be able to see the misconvergence. White turns on all colors and projects them at the same time, showing misconvergence if present.

I carefully looked at the picture this evening and I didn't find the dead pixel this time :) . I'm not sure why it showed up in the screen shots.Great, glad to hear it, and I'm really sorry I probably ruined your day!!! ;) Hopefully you were busy with work!!!

I was gonna say, but decided to keep my mouth shut, that after further looks I thought it could not be "stuck pixels". Both too big and too unlikely that the very same pixel in each of three panels was stuck ON!!! Then too, it looked way too big to be a single pixel out of a 1920x1080 array. False alarm.

Wonder what would cause it though, cleary the projectorreviews posts suffered from the same bizarre problem.

I saw the 5000Sorry, dude--waste of bandwidth.

No need to burn the guy. He's just reporting his findings. From what I've read the 5000 and 4900 are basically identical except the 5000 should have better contrast and black levels, so his concerns should be relevant.

Anyway -- for someone who has their 4900 already, I noticed in the manual that in the Advanced section of the IMAGE menu there is a setting for "Vertical Location" -- what is this? It's not the same as the "Vert. Position" in the SIGNAL menu, which is with Tracking and all that. Is it like a number value assigned to the vertical lens shift? There is no corresponding "Horizontal Location".

Whether it's buying speakers or TVs or projectors, there's not much that a store demo will do to tell you what things will be like when you get them home. I don't have a lot of faith that the store staff set up anything right or calibrated it intelligently. They mostly go for pop and sizzle and impact.

That being said, if I can compare a product at home with something I already know, I at least can tell if I'm moving forward, backward, or standing still. Fortunately, I have a Seleco CRT projector, an InFocus DLP, a Sharp LCD, and an Epson LCD available at home to compare.

Without a doubt, the HC4900 eclipses the older Sharp XV120ZU in every way, better picture, no SDE, higher resolution, less noise, lower ambient light. Likewise the Epson and InFocus fared badly as well, for most of the same reasons as the Sharp, though of course the DLP had no SDE. Even with their rich feature sets and multiple input options, their pictures were dull and blurry by comparison, and the fans seemed to emulate jet engines compared to the Mitsu.

Of course, I knew the real contest would be between the CRT PJ and the 1080 Mitsubishi. So, I revved up some Lord of the Rings, Finding Nemo, and Winged Migration (all standard def DVDs) to test various aspects of each PJ's performance.

Immediately two things became obvious: the CRT's three fans sounded like a wind tunnel compared to the quiet Mitsu, and the CRT is still king of black. Yet while the CRT is very film-like in its presentation, the HC4900 showed a range of fine detail unseen in the high video bandwidth, scanning CRT.

The CRT also exhibited combing in certain fast scenes, which was absent with the LCD, and the CRT's alignment was troublesome in the lower left corner (despite frequent, expensive calibration). The LCD showed spot on, pixel-for-pixel alignment as determined by two separate calibration discs and my up close and personal inspection.

The Seleco was an $18k projector when new, and it really was a stunning advance from the old Sharp LCD. I got the Epson and InFocus thinking I might finally retire the Seleco, but the only advantage they had was they were more convenient, and I soon tired of convenience in favor of a great picture. Plus they were limited to 720P while the CRT could handle 1080. So the other PJs went to the closet and sometimes to the office for presentations and parties, and the CRT stayed: big, bulky, noisy, and beautiful.

The HC4900 will retire the CRT to the garage and perhaps to ebay. It's quiet, convenient, easy to operate and calibrate, detailed, sharp, and rich. Despite its lesser black than the CRT, shadow detail is surprisingly good, and not having to constantly tweak it like the CRT will be a big plus. For less than 10% of the cost, I've found the PJ that will lay my CRT to rest. (If it doesn't kill me getting it out of the room.)

Having the chance to view these five PJs at home in the same room running the same source material was a real treat. It confirmed the choices I made to put the Sharp, Epson, and InFocus in the closet, and affirms the purchase of the HC4900 as a real step forward.

Room: 14wx16dx11h, light controlled, no windows or exterior doors.
Da-Lite 54x96 1.0 gain
PJ in eco-mode and component video in; shelf-mounted perpendicular to the center of the screen; no dead pixels

do you mind posting which models the Epson, Infocus, etc. were?

No need to burn the guy. He's just reporting his findings. From what I've read the 5000 and 4900 are basically identicalJudging a 4900 on the basis of seeing a (possibly old & tired in-store display model of the) HC5000 is ridiculous, and only spreads FUD. The 5000 came out over a year ago, and the 4900 midyear 2007--having at least power supply enhancements which besides fixing the lamp-strike-On problem had one reviewer stating the lumen output was improved over the 5000. I say "burn the guy". :rolleyes:

Judging a 4900 on the basis of seeing a (possibly old & tired in-store display model of the) HC5000 is ridiculous, and only spreads FUD. The 5000 came out over a year ago, and the 4900 midyear 2007--having at least power supply enhancements which besides fixing the lamp-strike-On problem had one reviewer stating the lumen output was improved over the 5000. I say "burn the guy". :rolleyes:

Whatever, dude. - if the "better" 5000 looks bad, I guess I'll go right ahead and figure the stripped down model for 1/3 the money is of course better. :confused:

Simply reporting for those who haven't seen one; fwiw, I've gone to see many of the pjs that Evan gushes over - haven't pulled the trigger yet, tho came close on the Epson last year. And while it wasn't in my home, I did immediately come home, watch the same scenes in the same movie on my system. My only difference with filecat's conclusions is that my Runco 980 still smokes the 5000 (yeah - wrong forum, wob, etc) - the Mits was quieter, infinitely more easy to setup, and had a far less pleasing display to actually watch. The 5000 also had misaligned panels - one can hope Mits addressed that in the 4900, so could be irrelevant. Laserfan - I can't see how a fixed lamp-strike-On problem could solve noise or banding, but great - glad you are happy with yours. Its for sure an upgrade over any 4x3 xga pj I've seen; the last Epson 720p model (their 5000?) looked better in the same room, same system, same dealer.

Enjoy; glad that trashing me makes you feel better with your purchases. Happy Holidays. :D

Simply reporting for those who haven't seen oneIf the report had been on seeing a 4900, then it would be appropriate to the "Official Mitsubishi HC4900 Owners Thread". Make your negative comments about the 5000 in the 5000 thread.

Anyone here who is looking at the 4900 is also reading the 5000 and 6000 threads as well.

Flyingvee, I, at least, appreciate your report. Though it hasn't stopped me from ordering the 4900 :)

One of the forum sponsors allows a full refund if there are fewer than 4 hours on the lamp, so I'll see for myself what I think of the projector. I will say that every review I've read has said that while black level is far from "best in class", the 4900 has a VERY pleasing picture with stellar color and pretty much unsurpassed sharpness (without appearing "hard"). Nothing I've read has mentioned banding and in fact cine4home made a point of saying there was none. Maybe the 5000 was just in bad shape.

One thing for everyone to remember: If you have a 3 year or older projector and are looking to upgrade, then this unit will have better contrast/blacks than your current display. Is it state of the art? No. But with the rebate it is 1/3 less than its closest competitor and at least $1000 less than the next closest unit.

So as long as it doesn't have any serious flaws, it could be a great bargain. I am just completing my HT and was looking at a new projector. I started looking last August and assumed I would get a 720p unit since all the 1080p units were $3500+. Maybe I would get the Optoma HD7100 (about $1000), maybe the Mitsubishi HD1000 (also about $1000). But if I can go 1080p for a few hundred more, it would be a bargain. I suspect this unit, despite its much critized contrast/blacks, probably does about as well in contrast/blacks as the 720p units I just mentioned (maybe slightly worse). I'm also interested in the Sony vw40 due out in January. Who knows? It's street price might be near $2000.

These are all options that did not exist a mere 4 months ago...

I am installing this projector today and this is my first installation. I have a trapezoidal effect where the top of the screen is slightly more narrow than the bottom. I have the projector mounted on the ceiling 8' high. I see that this projector doesn't have keystone correction. Is there any other way to fix this or will I have to live with it? I've gone over the manual from front to back many times and don't see any mention of fixing something like this.

You need to level the projector. Right now you have it tilted slightly so that the front of the projector is lower than the rear.

Yes and remember it's got lens shift, the optical (ie. not digital) and superior alternative to keystone correction, but try to level it out first :)

What mount do folks recommend for this projector? I would need an extension to drop it below my ceiling fan.

Speaking of ceiling fans, I would need to put projector somewhere between the fan and an A/C supply vent which are roughly 6 feet apart from each other. I read in the 4900 manual that I should keep it away from direct air from supply vents. How far away is acceptable?

What mount do folks recommend for this projector? I would need an extension to drop it below my ceiling fan.

Speaking of ceiling fans, I would need to put projector somewhere between the fan and an A/C supply vent which are roughly 6 feet apart from each other. I read in the 4900 manual that I should keep it away from direct air from supply vents. How far away is acceptable?

I don't know if this really answers your question, but my Mits HD1000u is mounted (inverted, of course) about 6" above the blades of a ceiling fan (I found it easier to buy a new pole and drop the fan down than the projector mount - in my case) and there have been no ill-effects, but that's a ceiled optics DLP, not a LCD like the HC4900 with a filter to worry about.

Thanks for the replies!! I have been making adjustments with the mount to try to make the PJ exactly paralell to the celing both forward and side to side. It's pretty darn close now and looks much better. Back to work have to keep moving on.

Just received the Mitsubishi HC4900 it does not work with my monoprice hdmi switcher. What are you using for your hdmi switcher?

Thank you,
Harry

I don't have the 4900 (yet), but do have experience with monoprice HDMI switchers. I tried their 4x1 and had problems with many devices. I called monoprice support, and they sent me the 5x1 which was a newer version. All problems went away.

FWIW, I am a DLP 720 owner (Mits 3000), who is looking for opinions from former DLP owners who upgraded to this pj and what are your impressions as far as color, contrast, convergence issues, DLP v. LCD, etc

OCKEVIN: I also had a DLP 720 Mits. Just purchased the LCD HC4900.,I have about 50 hours on it and I think it has better colors and contrasts. Convergence issues are not an issue on my unit. I am shooting from about 15 ft. to a Draper M1300 120" white screen (1.1 gain) in a dark room. I watched several HD discs last night, the picture is fantastic. The sharpness on this projector is the best I have seen.

I owned three DLP's before this unit, and was very reluctant to try LCD, because many have said they were not bright enough. Well depending on the size of your screen, I can say it is bright enough for my screen, and I'm using the low lamp mode. Depending of course on your situation and all, I think you would be very pleased with this projector.

For the owners. I really like the value this projector provides and want your opinion on a few items.

The manual says you will lose brightness by ceiling mounting. Why? How much? Is this true with all projectors?

Does not having a power switch bother anyone? Seems like a pain to plug / unplug for each use whether shelf or ceiling mounted. Else I need additional expense to install a switch.

I don't like dynamic iris for 3 reasons, 1 it is audible, and 2 I can alway see the change on the screen like some one is adjusting the brightness all the time, and white titles on black look dim, I would rather have a more consistent quiet image at the expense of some black level. My projector has this but I can turn it off (open) and then I can adjust the iris to a position I am happy with. Can the iris be manually adjusted on this unit?

How hard is it to view the details from the remote? I really like being able to click a button and see the signal (720, 1080, etc), the lamp mode and display mode (cinema) all in one quick glance.

FYI, my present projector is a PLV-Z5 (720p) projector in a small light controlled room 92" screen, eyes 11 feet from screen. Should I upgrade? I like the Z5 but I am considering the HC4900 because it is quieter and hopefully less visible pixel structure. What am I giving up besides more $$?

Just received the Mitsubishi HC4900 it does not work with my monoprice hdmi switcher. What are you using for your hdmi switcher?

Thank you,
Harry

You don't say which switch it is. I have the 5x1 and it's marked rev 2.1. Perhaps you have an earlier version. I haven't hooked it up to the pj but it's running on a JVC d'hila set without a problem.

John

almost all manuels say that ceiling mounting lowers precieved lumens, this has to do with retro reflective screens that shine their light back toward the sourse, the projector acts just like a flashlight, same output no matter which way you shine it

monoprice switcher I have is 5x1 hdmi-switcher hdx-501 it worked fine on my Sony hs51 and my Epson 400, but will not work on mits 4900.

Thank you,
Harry

do you mind posting which models the Epson, Infocus, etc. were?

Not at all.

Sharp XV120ZU (1993 MSRP $4000, street $2799) The promise was a home theater anywhere. Unfortunately, there was such heavy pixelization that it actually looked better in a less dark room, and there was no such thing as black.

InFocus Screenplay 4805 (2004 MSRP $799, street $749) The promise was DLP as the great equalizer to bring high quality HT to the common man for less. Unfortunately this Popeye forget his spinach, and he got dizzy with rainbows, fatigued with squinting to see the dim picture, and lightheaded from the contsant whistling of the wind through the fan.

Epson Powerlite Cinema 200+ (2006 MSRP $1999, street about $1499) The promise was enough projector power to play in almost any home environment. Unfortunately, the pixelization was too pronounced in all but the largest rooms, and it was a veritable cyclone of noise in most settings.

Seems like there were a couple of folks that were going to be comparing this 4900 to the InFocus SP-7210 and Mits HD1000U this weekend.

So come on guys take a break from football and the movies and let us know how they compare!!! :-)

monoprice switcher I have is 5x1 hdmi-switcher hdx-501 it worked fine on my Sony hs51 and my Epson 400, but will not work on mits 4900.

Thank you,
Harry
Crap... that's the one I wanted to order due to the newer 4-1's being backordered. What devices are you trying to run into it?

5X1 Enhanced HDMI Switch with built-in Equalizer (REV.2.1), top view picture shows HDX-501 as the model number.

Any opinions on this mount: http://www.projectormountstore.com/product_info.php?cPath=52&products_id=102

Also, anyone know if this Peerless mount would fit the 4900? It lists the 5000. http://www.bestpricemounts.com/Peerless-PRSKIT0811-Adjustable-eight-Projector-Ceiling-Mount-Kit.html?manufacturerID=2333&categoryID=193&mz=1


Finally, am I ok with the lens being somewhere between 12" and 24" above the top of the screen?

Any opinions on this mount: http://www.projectormountstore.com/product_info.php?cPath=52&products_id=102


I bought that same mount. I mounted the mount to the ceiling, but am still a day or two from actually having the projector to attach to it. It's not bad for the price, but it's nowhere near the quality of the mount I had on my X1 (which was the "official" Infocus X1 mount, manufactured by premiermounts.com). It has a "home-made" look to it, but appears to be well-constructed and it appears that it will do the job just fine. If there are any problems with it, I should know in a couple of days when the projector actually shows up.

FWIW, my wife thinks it is very ugly and doesn't like the industrial-looking silver aluminum collection of bolts and wingnuts from the ceiling. I doubt it will be as noticeable, however, when there is actually a black plastic projector attached to it.

In hindsight, I am thinking I should have gotten this mount: http://www.premiermounts.com/product.asp?ProductID=7095&PartID=1110. I was pretty pleased with my last mount from Premier Mounts and this particular mount is a universal one, so I, theoretically, don't have to worry about buying yet another mount and drilling more holes the next time I get a projector. That may have been worth the ~50% more out of pocket expense. Still, given my last projector was an X1, I'm not exactly a frequent upgrader.

I bought that same mount. I mounted the mount to the ceiling, but am still a day or two from actually having the projector to attach to it. It's not bad for the price, but it's nowhere near the quality of the mount I had on my X1 (which was the "official" Infocus X1 mount, manufactured by premiermounts.com). It has a "home-made" look to it, but appears to be well-constructed and it appears that it will do the job just fine. If there are any problems with it, I should know in a couple of days when the projector actually shows up.

FWIW, my wife thinks it is very ugly and doesn't like the industrial-looking silver aluminum collection of bolts and wingnuts from the ceiling. I doubt it will be as noticeable, however, when there is actually a black plastic projector attached to it.

In hindsight, I am thinking I should have gotten this mount: http://www.premiermounts.com/product.asp?ProductID=7095&PartID=1110. I was pretty pleased with my last mount from Premier Mounts and this particular mount is a universal one, so I, theoretically, don't have to worry about buying yet another mount and drilling more holes the next time I get a projector. That may have been worth the ~50% more out of pocket expense. Still, given my last projector was an X1, I'm not exactly a frequent upgrader.


Thanks for the insight. If someone could tell me the Peerless version would work with the 4900, I would order it now. I think I need at least a 20" extension.

I have the Mountdirect NPL mount (http://www.mountdirect.com/NPL_Projector_Mount_p/npl.htm) in white that I bought for my optoma about a year ago. I looked on their compatability page and the HC4900, 5000 and 6000 were not listed. All three of these projectors have the same case from what I have gathered. I emailed them yesterday inquiring if they knew if if their PMS or NPL mounts would work with these projectors and they responded back immediately that they would. I need to get a PMS mount in black for a closer fit to my low ceiling. Good mounts for the price.

Got a piece of 10' Gatorfoam yesterday (decided I had to check size before buying an electric screen) and tonight watched a movie for the first time. Even with an SD DVD (I wanted to start with "worst case") this projector is amazing, I am ecstatic. Later I put-on a couple HD DVDs for testing, including "2001" and could not be happier with the blacks & contrast & shadow detail--in fact I'd been planning a grey screen but I don't think a low gain screen is necessary, heck even shooting onto a plain white gatorfoam blacks looked fantastic. This with Lamp Mode Low, 14' throw, and zero ambient light.

I can see that zooming between 'scope movies and 16:9 is going to be just a little fiddly; as someone said earlier, zooming causes the cross-hatch to come up. Also, with the HDMI input the image has to be re-captured for some reason when doing this--I didn't notice this with Component inputs. I have lots to learn yet about this pj but looking forward to a long/happy relationship. And to watching all my movies the way they were meant to be seen larger-than-life! :D

Laserfan, can you tell me what the remote control option IMAGE>Advanced>Vertical Location does? And how it's different from SIGNAL>Vertical Position and just plain Lens Shift?

I can see that zooming between 'scope movies and 16:9 is going to be just a little fiddly; as someone said earlier, zooming causes the cross-hatch to come up.

Stick a little piece of tape or a tack or something small but visible at the upper and/or lower edge of where the 16:9 version of your extra-big (zoomed out) image would be. Then just zoom out until the edge of the crosshatch hits that spot. In other words, if your 2.35 screen is, say, 110" x 47", then you would just mark the upper and lower edges of an imaginary 110" x 62" screen (just multiply the height of your 2.35 screen by 1.32 to get the height you should zoom out to when watching 2.35 movies).

What I'm *hoping* is that with the Vertical Location setting on the remote, you can skip all that by simply zooming out all the way (assuming your 2.35 screen is set to use the camera at maximum zoom, which would be easiest both for convenience AND for light output), then use the Vertical Location to move the viewable part of the movie into your screen. Best of all, that setting is saved with your preset. So (again, assuming that's how VL works), when you want to watch a 2.35 movie: 1) zoom out all the way (no bothering with lining anything up), then 2) call up the preset that has the VL set for your screen. Done. Probably can't be that easy, though :)

Edit: Ignore all of the above. According to cine4home, Vertical Location "in this menu is very practical, as it allows for the adjustment of the previously mentioned digital Lens Shift" -- so there you go! Zoom all the way out, call up the preset you've set up for your 2.35 screen, adjust focus as necessary. Almost as easy as sliding an anamorphic lens out of the way and you'll save $600-6000. Of course you're losing some brightness but gaining some sharpness and contrast versus the anamorphic lens.

Edit edit: Whoops, "adjustment of the digital lens shift". Not really sure what that means (I would think it would be either lens shift or digital image shift), but if it really is digital rather than physical than it's not the best option.

With all the talk about black level, I wonder how it would compare to my DT500. I took a picture of a dark scene and adjusted the brightness in photoshop as I see it on my Elite white screen. Top and bottom black bars are screen border (simulated) but exactly what I see. So how does the 4900 compare?

Image link -> DT500 Blacks (http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i83/Skr-faze/dt.jpg)

I also posted this over in the Panasonic 2000 thread:
Sorry if this has been already addressed: BUT I am wavering between the Pany 2000 and...don't laugh...the Mits HP4900. I'm in a white wall, white ceiling, light beige carpet and plenty of windows (with shades but still plenty of ambient light filtering around the sides) Although I like the idea of black levels being good, I'm not as concerned about them as I am brightness. I've been living with a Mits VL2000 from 2000 with a contrast ratio of around 600lumens and the same contrast ratio; at least I think this correct.
THE BIG Question: would I really see a marked difference between the brighter Panny and the dimmer Mits during daylight hours?
If so, how would it affect the picture?
One more: how would the different projectors appear during nightime viewing when things are relatively dark?
Thanks for any response.