Just to follow up with my query about dust blob on my lens. I left my HD65 running after discovering it and it went away after approx 2 hrs and is now fine.

Thanks

hi folks,

finally able to get around putting the pj up on the ceiling. i am looking at this mount from monoprice. any one has any experience with this one, or any other that you would recommend? thanks

http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=108&cp_id=10828&cs_id=1082803&p_id=3874&seq=1&format=4#feedback

hi folks,

finally able to get around putting the pj up on the ceiling. i am looking at this mount from monoprice. any one has any experience with this one, or any other that you would recommend? thanks

http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=108&cp_id=10828&cs_id=1082803&p_id=3874&seq=1&format=4#feedback

that look sidentical to the one i am using now and i used it for the HD65 and now the HD66
its an ok mount works good, but i find after a few weeks of the kids messing around on the main floor and the stomping that the mount shifts slightly (as you cant fasten it down completely) and i have to just adjust it slightly when i use the projector, other than that no problem

I wonder if anybody out there has his HD65 hooked up to Denon DVD players. If there is, mind sharing the settings (contrast, brightness, sharpness etc.)?

I hooked up my pj to a Denon DVD player...but my pj is an H27...the settings are all factory's....cheers mate...

hi folks,

finally able to get around putting the pj up on the ceiling. i am looking at this mount from monoprice. any one has any experience with this one, or any other that you would recommend? thanks

http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=108&cp_id=10828&cs_id=1082803&p_id=3874&seq=1&format=4#feedback

Here's a thread on HD65 mounts.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1062723

I bought the one mentioned in post #2, the one on Ebay. Works great, have it for a year now, and I highly recommend it.

Here's my mount. I think it probably cost me 5 bucks in total, plus a few beers ;)

functions PERFECTLY, adjustable in all ways, and is rock solid (kids always jumping on floor above) I'm in a bit of a rush right now, but if you'd like more details let me know and I will explain exactly how it works.

Hello all,
I've been owning this projector for few months now, and would like to know the proper usage of this projector to get the best hours out of it.

When projector is on, it's being used for 2-3 hours either movies or gaming. What mode should it be used under?

If I use it in the morning, and planning on re-using it at night. Should I power it off and on again later? Or Should I let it on the entire day? I know that switching on and off within 1 day doesn't do any good with bulb.

I would not leave the projector on all day. I try to minimize usage to no more than 8 hours a day, and that's uncommon.

I'd switch the projector off if it was going to be unused for a 3-4 hour period in that timeframe you mentioned.

My general rule is to turn the projector on no more than once a day. I run it for 2-8 hours when I turn it on, and once it's off, it stays off until the next day.

My goal is to maximize lamp life. So far, this has worked for me. My old DV-10 had 1200 hours on it (until I got the HD-65). No problem with either projector lamp life.

Here's a thread on HD65 mounts.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1062723

I bought the one mentioned in post #2, the one on Ebay. Works great, have it for a year now, and I highly recommend it.

that looks like a solid mount.

sadly, i already pulled the trigger on the monoprice mount.

if it doesn't work, i will definitely get the ebay one.

thanks

I have had my Optoma HD65 for about 6 months and about 300 hours. I realize it is "filter-less"; however, is there any preventive maintenance I should be doing on the projector to ensure a long bulb life and general well-being of the projector? It is well ventilated in its placement and I prevent short shut-off cycles. Is there anything else I should be doing for good upkeep on the unit?
The manual did not list any steps to follow in maintaining the unit.
Thanks.

if i saw rainbow effects on this....do u think i would also see them in the optoma hd20 or the newere hd180 1080p? thanks

Check the "Gil_V" post from a couple days ago; he pretty much hit the nail on the head. I love this projector & have no desire for 3D.

guys, what are you using to mount your hd65?

i can't find the screws mentioned in the manual at a local HD or Lowes.

what are you using as alternatives?

look at my post with pic of my homemade mount. should be a few posts back. screws were M3 screws. I had them
layin around but maybe try home depot.

thanks sdmfer,

i'll try to look for M3 screws at HD today.

that mount is pretty nice. unfortunately, i am not a handy guy so i ordered the mount from monoprice.

hey guys, which settings do you use with htpc?

when i first calibrated the pj, it has blu-ray player connected directly to it and picture looks great. now i am hooking up an htpc=>avr=>pj, the picture is too bright and a bit washed out.

thanks

hey guys, which settings do you use with htpc?

when i first calibrated the pj, it has blu-ray player connected directly to it and picture looks great. now i am hooking up an htpc=>avr=>pj, the picture is too bright and a bit washed out.

thanks

Depending on your screen. This is what I use with a Medium Gray DIY painted screen in a dark light controlled room.

I just re-calibrated earlier this week with my new meter and the results are very nice improvement. I wish I could get the codes for this pj.

HTPC>AVR>HD65

Display Mode: User
Contrast: -4
Brightness: -6
Sharpness: 0

Advanced Menu

Degamma: PC
Brilliant Color: 0
TrueVivid: 0
Image AI: Off
Color Temp: Cold

RGB Gain/Bias

Gain
R: 5
G: 0
B: 2

Bias
R: -3
G: 0
B: 0

thanks, i'll give that a try.

i am using a WilsonArt Designer White screen.

Depending on your screen. This is what I use with a Medium Gray DIY painted screen in a dark light controlled room.

I just re-calibrated earlier this week with my new meter and the results are very nice improvement. I wish I could get the codes for this pj.

HTPC>AVR>HD65

Display Mode: User
Contrast: -4
Brightness: -6
Sharpness: 0

Advanced Menu

Degamma: PC
Brilliant Color: 0
TrueVivid: 0
Image AI: Off
Color Temp: Cold

RGB Gain/Bias

Gain
R: 5
G: 0
B: 2

Bias
R: -3
G: 0
B: 0

tried this. looks better than what i had, but it still not dark enough. and picture is still a bit washed out.

anyone with settings for htpc connected to an avr?

thanks

Why don't you download and try the AVS Calibration disc located here on this forum. You can then adjust your Brightness and Contrast to your screen and environment.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=948496

yeah why don't you...wait a min, I didn't know there was such a thing here :) will go look for it now thanks bud ;)

Why don't you download and try the AVS Calibration disc located here on this forum. You can then adjust your Brightness and Contrast to your screen and environment.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=948496

thanks....that seems like a lot of work

better start moving.....

Some HD demo screenshots. I have purposefully used a higher exposure to show my screen and display area and hence the shots are bit washed out. You can also see the right hand side wall from where I get reflections. The first few shots are with ffdshow settings on the right hand side of the images.

The sharpness is set to 15 in ffdshow.

http://i95.photobucket.com/albums/l150/anibap/DSC_0635.jpg
http://i95.photobucket.com/albums/l150/anibap/DSC_0631.jpg
http://i95.photobucket.com/albums/l150/anibap/DSC_0633.jpg
http://i95.photobucket.com/albums/l150/anibap/DSC_0619.jpg
http://i95.photobucket.com/albums/l150/anibap/DSC_0620.jpg
http://i95.photobucket.com/albums/l150/anibap/DSC_0623.jpg
http://i95.photobucket.com/albums/l150/anibap/DSC_0624.jpg
http://i95.photobucket.com/albums/l150/anibap/DSC_0626.jpg
http://i95.photobucket.com/albums/l150/anibap/DSC_0629.jpg
http://i95.photobucket.com/albums/l150/anibap/DSC_0630.jpg

OMG!! Holy smoking GOOD!!!

Would you mind sharing your settings?

anyone using AVS HD 709 to calibrate your HD65 with an HTPC?

guys,

does the hd65 have a long throw lens or a short throw lens...?

friends,

the optoma hd65 has 1.10x zoom. i got a 119" screen.

According to Projector central pro calculator i can get 119 at three settings...

1. Zoom 1.00x at 14' 8"

2. Zoom 1.05x at 14'

3. Zoom 1.10x at 13' 5"

I can put my projector at any of these 3 distances.

A. Which distance should i put it at and why ?

B. How would it matter to lamp life/picture quality/brightness depending on which distance/zoom i choose for the same image size ?

C. And which zoom option will give me best picture ?

Thanks

friends,

the optoma hd65 has 1.10x zoom. i got a 119" screen.

According to Projector central pro calculator i can get 119 at three settings...

1. Zoom 1.00x at 14' 8"

2. Zoom 1.05x at 14'

3. Zoom 1.10x at 13' 5"

I can put my projector at any of these 3 distances.

A. Which distance should i put it at and why ?

B. How would it matter to lamp life/picture quality/brightness depending on which distance/zoom i choose for the same image size ?

C. And which zoom option will give me best picture ?

Thanksactually you would want the lens situated anywhere between the 13' 5" and 14' 8" you mentioned from the screen and by playing with the zoom adjustment you would still be able to reach the desired 119" screen size....projectors work just like an old manual zoom camera. Theoretically there is a slight light output differerence between zoomed in and zoomed out but its too small for your eyes to see on most projectors.... the larger the screen size the more spread out and less concentrated the brightness of the resulting picture...I had a 106" screen with my hd 70,65 and now 66 and I wouldnt go bigger in my 15 x 15' room....remember ideal seating distyance is 1 1/2 times the diagnal screen size in distance away from screen for seating to not be able to see the pixels (or differences from 720 to 1080p) for most people...and you dont want to be darting your head across the screen because your too close...this causes the rainbow effect to show up more.

hey augiedoggy,

thanks for the tip there buddy :)

i read that the ideal distance to screen is 1.5 times the screen width .

but you say it's 1.5 times the diagonal length.

i'm confused....

hey augiedoggy,

thanks for the tip there buddy :)

i read that the ideal distance to screen is 1.5 times the screen width .

but you say it's 1.5 times the diagonal length.

i'm confused.... you might be right on that...I read it a long time ago...but screen size is measured diagonally not straight across so... the only thing that effects bulb life are having the bulb in brightest mode and AI being turned on which also puts the bulb in brightest (high power) mode during bright scenes...

hey augiedoggy,

thanks for the tip there buddy :)

i read that the ideal distance to screen is 1.5 times the screen width .

but you say it's 1.5 times the diagonal length.

i'm confused....

you might be right on that...I read it a long time ago...but screen size is measured diagonally not straight across so... the only thing that effects bulb life are having the bulb in brightest mode and AI being turned on which also puts the bulb in brightest (high power) mode during bright scenes...

If you use 1.5x the screen width rather than diagonal width your screen will be bigger but you will be more prone to rbe because of moving your head instead of your eyes. You could also see more pixelation. If you want to view a nice smooth, sharp picture I would recommend 1.5 times diagonal. Everyone wants as big as screen as possible but remember this is an entry level 720P projector; though a pretty good one at that.

If you use 1.5x the screen width rather than diagonal width your screen will be bigger but you will be more prone to rbe because of moving your head instead of your eyes. You could also see more pixelation. If you want to view a nice smooth, sharp picture I would recommend 1.5 times diagonal. Everyone wants as big as screen as possible but remember this is an entry level 720P projector; though a pretty good one at that.

I agree thats exactly what I was saying with the darting your head across the screen comment.... Ideally you want to be able to look at the screen as a whole image and not have to even move your eyes about all that much its the darting of the eyes quickly accross the screen that causes the rainbows to be more noticeable and I also believe too close to too big of a screen is tiring on the eyes...
also at 119" it wont perform as well with lights on in the room or ambient light.

Im picking up a barely used for 65HD tomorrow for about $300 and it is my first projector. it has less than 100 hours on it and im pretty excited. Just wanted to thank everyone in the thread for their settings and reviews. Cant wait to start building my screen next.

friends,

the optoma hd65 has 1.10x zoom. i got a 119" screen.

According to Projector central pro calculator i can get 119 at three settings...

1. Zoom 1.00x at 14' 8"

2. Zoom 1.05x at 14'

3. Zoom 1.10x at 13' 5"

I can put my projector at any of these 3 distances.

A. Which distance should i put it at and why ?

B. How would it matter to lamp life/picture quality/brightness depending on which distance/zoom i choose for the same image size ?

C. And which zoom option will give me best picture ?

Thanks

i mounted my hd65 two weeks ago, and let me tell you that projectorcentral's guide did not work for me.

i had to remount the pj 3 times to get it fill my 80" screen (with either zoom in/out)

i would suggest that you hold your pj up to the ceiling and adjust the zoom to zee if it will fill your entire screen before mounting it. just a thought.

i mounted my hd65 two weeks ago, and let me tell you that projectorcentral's guide did not work for me.

i had to remount the pj 3 times to get it fill my 80" screen (with either zoom in/out)

i would suggest that you hold your pj up to the ceiling and adjust the zoom to zee if it will fill your entire screen before mounting it. just a thought.
Good advise about holding the projector up but if the calculator didnt work there is something you missed or your not telling us because it was accurate for me and others and they are all the same lenses? Are you angling the projector and using keystone to correct? and do you have the projector centered on the screen? these thing are important to have setup right for the best even sharpness and size...and this is were many people goof up or try to take shortcuts.

i measured both distances, and made sure my pj is mounted at the center of screen.

i used the number from projector central as a guide, it does work to an extent but not dead on. i had to move the pj back 2-3 inches to get it to fill the entire screen.

perhaps, my measurements were not dead on?

if i were to do it again, i would use the numbers from projector central as a guide but before mounting, i would hold the pj up to make sure it's at the exact spot.

what would be the ideal screen size vs distance ratio for a 720p projector ?

So after about 4 months or so, the flicker has returned. It doesn't last as long as before, but it's back. I think I'm not going to return it for a 3rd time though and just live with it. With movies it is only on a bright scene where it's noticeable.
I also recalibrated the projector and was shocked at how low I had to turn the various color setting to and then had to turn the brightness back up to get their settings correct. Now grass and sky are normal looking and the people don't look reddish anymore. I highly recommend getting a calibration disk and doing this. The picture now looks close to the theater.

So after about 4 months or so, the flicker has returned. It doesn't last as long as before, but it's back. I think I'm not going to return it for a 3rd time though and just live with it. With movies it is only on a bright scene where it's noticeable.
I also recalibrated the projector and was shocked at how low I had to turn the various color setting to and then had to turn the brightness back up to get their settings correct. Now grass and sky are normal looking and the people don't look reddish anymore. I highly recommend getting a calibration disk and doing this. The picture now looks close to the theater.

what calibration disc did you use? I have Avia and Avia II, but dont have any of the filters etc.

Sorry to hear about the returning flicker, dude.

I haven't had my flicker return. I feel for you, though. A problem like that can ruin the entire projector experience.

I'd consider sending it back again, but I would contact the quality or sales manager of Optoma by mail before going the typical repair route.

You would probably get great results by contacting an upper manager in the corporation.

kindly delete

does anyone have a problem with the HD65 losing signal ONLY when a bright flash is shown? say a blank screen goes to a bright white commercial or a bomb goes off in a movie and fills most of the screen with white. I'm using component cables. I have the source run thru my stereo (sony 4es) then to the projector. Now, if i take the sony out of the equation, there is no problem. Except for the fact that I need to switch inputs. I tried a Monoprice component switcher but I had the same problem. I've read where multiple people have had synch problems with HDMI but this is with component connection. Oh, my cable run is about 50FT. I'm sure it had to do with signal strength or something but I'm hoping someone has an idea on how to fix this.

I have this problem and didn't see a solution in the following discussion.
Any time there is a very bright screen (explosion, bright commercial flash, etc.) the screen goes blank or to a blue screen and says it's searching for a signal.

I have it hooked up to component cables on a 30ft run. IIRC, it did the same thing when hooked to HDMI.

Thanks

what calibration disc did you use? I have Avia and Avia II, but dont have any of the filters etc.

I used the calibration disk from this site. It worked great. Although over time I think I still have it set too high, I feel blinded with a bright scene comes up. I sit about 12 feet from the screen which may be the issue.

Sorry to hear about the returning flicker, dude.

I haven't had my flicker return. I feel for you, though. A problem like that can ruin the entire projector experience.

I'd consider sending it back again, but I would contact the quality or sales manager of Optoma by mail before going the typical repair route.

You would probably get great results by contacting an upper manager in the corporation.

Thanks for the suggestion, but after having the projector in the shop for more than two months before, and two repairs for the same item it seems it may not get fixed with a third. I would consider the company doing great customer service if they fixed the issue the first time. Then if they fixed it on the second try I'd give them a good rating, but a third? I'm not certain I like this company anymore and would rather just deal with the issue when it appears (maybe twice a movie for a minute or so) and not buy or recommend them again if possible repairs are an issue.
Your help on this thread has been great. It seems like I was unlucky to get a lemon with this one, but a watchable lemon at least.
We get what we pay for in the odds of something going wrong.

I used the calibration disk from this site. It worked great.

Where on this site can I find it?

Where on this site can I find it?

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=948496

I have a pesky ceiling fan in the way of a wall mounted projector. Before I go drilling holes I'm curious if anyone knows the exact measurement that the vertical shift can help. I'd like to mount the projector as high as possible but there is a ceiling fan about the same height that might interfere.

Will the vertical shift help or am I going to have to mount the projector under the ceiling fan. Thanks.

( i have a ONLINE UPS connected to the HD65 )


a month ago....

- lamp failure red led comes ON. i switch OFF projector and switch ON again and it works perfectly. then i switch it OFF.

a week ago....

i switch ON the HD65 for watch a movie and it switches itself OFF after 5 mins and lamp failure red led comes ON. i switch it OFF and switch it ON and then it plays for 5 mins and then same lamp failure red led comes on.

i change the power point to another socket and the switch it on and after 5 mins it switches itself OFF and lamp failure red led comes ON. this happens twice more.

then i just switch it OFF for 30 mins and switch it ON again and it works perfectly. then i switch it off.

- What does all this mean ?

^^^^^ It means your lamp is faulty or your stricker is faulty. I would say the amp is the problem. I had the same issue and thought it was the part that strikes/drives/turns on the lamp, but once the new lamp arrived all was well. Hope this helps you out.

try opening up and re-seating the bulb assembly. mine was flickering badly after my drunk friend knocked mine off its ceiling mount and also kept giving a red light now and again and it cured it. if u go to you tube there are videos showing how to open up and re-insert the lamp assembly

^^^^^ It means your lamp is faulty or your stricker is faulty. I would say the amp is the problem. I had the same issue and thought it was the part that strikes/drives/turns on the lamp, but once the new lamp arrived all was well. Hope this helps you out.\

- what is a striker ?

- before i decide to get a new lamp should i sent it to optoma first as i'm still within 1st year of purchase ?

try opening up and re-seating the bulb assembly. mine was flickering badly after my drunk friend knocked mine off its ceiling mount and also kept giving a red light now and again and it cured it. if u go to you tube there are videos showing how to open up and re-insert the lamp assembly

- would opening and re-seating the bulb cause it to void the warranty ?

- tried a lot to find the "videos showing how to open up and re-insert the lamp assembly" but could not.... do u have a link ?

Thanks guys :)

guys,

i bought a dalite high power 2.4 screen and i'm aiming to keep the projector as low as from the ceiling as possible to get the max gain out of the high power's retro reflective nature.

My ceiling is 113 inches high and i plan to keep the use a telescopic mount to bring the projector down to about 77 inches ( from ground up ) at the center of the projector lens.

the size of my screen is 110" diagonal i,e 54 x 96 inches. i plan to keep the the bottom of the screen at about 36 inches ( from ground up ).

So the center of the screen will be at about 63 inches ( from ground up )

ceiling height = 113 inches.
screen dimensions = 110" diagonal, 54 inches height x 96 inches width.
screen height from ground up = 36 inches.
center of screen = 63 inches
center of projector lens = 77 inches

So keeping the above parameters in mind if i use a telescopic mount to lower the projector to about 77 inches ( from ground up )...

1. Will i get a Perfect Image on the screen ?

Thanks.

I have read that keystoning in general is bad.

However I'd like to know from HD65's owners... How's the keystoning of this projector ? Anyone tried it ? Is the resulting image very bad ? Or can you not notice any difference ?

i didn't use any for the longest time until last night when i used 2 clicks, and i have to say it didn't appear any different. Now i have a totally light controlled bat cave, with black ceilings and a black front wall.

Is it unusual that in a time where electronics are outdated within weeks that this projector is still produced after almost 3 1/2 years? I do own one and wanted to upgrade and found out that you can still buy it. It has performed flawlessly for me and in comparison to 1080 projectors I do not see a significant difference in that class of projectors. Do others see it the same way or am I not videophil enough not to notice the difference? Has technology not improved enough in those 3 years to justify an upgrade?

Sometimes I think manufacturers just "nail it" with a product, and I think the HD65 is an example of that. The price/performance ratio was unheard of at the time, and I'm not compelled to go 1080p either since I still watch a lot of (upconverted) DVDs. Heck, I haven't even gone through my first bulb yet!

I've had my HD65 about 3 yrs and just bought new bulb. I had a friend come over and I put on a 9Gb Blu Ray rip and he thought I up graded to a 1080p projector. It has served me well and I decided to get new bulb and a 106' Da lite HP screen instead of moving up to 1080p and saved a few bucks and couldn't be happier.

I've been talking to a guy about purchasing his hd65 for $375 (not yet sure if that includes the mount). Any thoughts on that? That might be a bit high as I can buy it new for $525 shipped. I would be mounting it on the ceiling in a dark basement room with a distance of about 15" and an ideal screen size of about 120".

This is my first foray into projectors. My thinking was that I would get a low-end projector and use that for a couple of years. At that time I would get a high-end projector and keep the low-end projector for when the kids want to watch something. I would probably pick up the VIP product for use with whatever projector I buy so that I can get some 3d.

cowboom on occasion has a few of these still. from about 3 bills. check them once and while...

Has anyone used a custom screen paint forumla for their HD65? Anyone have a particular one that shines on this projector? Thanks!

Has anyone used a custom screen paint forumla for their HD65? Anyone have a particular one that shines on this projector? Thanks!

I used RS-MaxxMMudd Retro mix. I've been very pleased with the results. Screen size, seating, room colors and ambient light also are important when considering paint mix. The DIY subsection of the Screens forum has some very helpful people. Just post what you have and let the experts tell you what you need.

One new feature Optoma is very keen on is it's (Super-wide) aspect choice. This is a feature designed for a budget constant height setup without having to buy a lens that's costs way more than the projector. Any 2.35 aspect movie when using Super-wide auto will be picked up by the projector and automatically set to delete the 2.35 black bars. What I did was use auto detect and then 1% overscan plus I raised the image with vertical shift. Since I have a electric screen I could just raise up the bottom to match the video area and bam now all my 2.35 movies will fill the screen with a larger scope type image, no bars. The good part is it does this without a drastic change in resolution, the image stays sharp.
BB 0"

I just tried this feature out last night, but it doesn't seem to do anything except crop the top and bottom from standard 16x9 material. I did notice on a 2.35x1 movie that the bottom had a slightly different gray (black) color. Testing it further it seems to be just at the point of where it crops the 16x9 material, so it does appear to be trying to work. Should I adjust the overscan to something higher, like 8 which fills to the same point?
Any suggestions?
Also finally going to buy a new screen. The old 92" is still scratched badly. Noticed Amazon as the model B by Dalite 106" for less than the 92" and thinking about going larger, but not sure about seeing the screen door effect or losing brightness/contrast. Sitting 10 feet or so back right now.
Thanks everyone

I have read that keystoning in general is bad.

However I'd like to know from HD65's owners... How's the keystoning of this projector ? Anyone tried it ? Is the resulting image very bad ? Or can you not notice any difference ?

I use it for 2-3 clicks of the button, and didn't see any negative impact. I avoided it for a long time based on traditional advice that keystone stinks, but then I tried it and couldn't see any problems, so I've been using it that way for about 10 months.

This is my first projector, so maybe if I had years of experience I'd say differently, but I think it's fine for me in my setup.

I have Avia and Avia II, but dont have any of the filters etc.

There's an Avia II? I have Avia. Is Avia II worth getting? what's the benefit over the first one?

I have had my hd65 since early 08 and enjoyed it very much,previously had an infocus 4805 and when the bulb had too many hours on it I upgraded to the hd65.It currently has about 5000 hrs on the original bulb and has had a light engine replaced under warranty at about 3000 hrs .Optima service was great 2 week turn around ,I had complained about it getting very loud after about 20 minutes of use.I only had about 2 weeks left under warr. at the time.On the service slip they also mentioned the bulb output was below spec. I hoped to purchase a 1080 proj. rather than replace bulb.Recently it started flickering and colors would shift ,after about 10 minutes of this it would shut down and give a failed bulb error code.after cooling it would come back on and do the same thing.tried reseating bulb and cleaning fan as best i could this seemed to help somewhat but it still happened again.at this point with an old bulb and no warr.I decided to open it up using biztyke's great pics and instructions.Only needed to go to step 2 to find that a small tag label on the ribbon connector to the color wheel was peeling and curling towards the color wheel ,there were marks on the wheel surface where it was touching at times probably when it warmed up or from fan air movement.I clipped off the label from the ribbon cable and carefully cleaned the color wheel which was so dirty with film and chunks that you could not even see the color chips.Vacuumed out everything as well as i could then put it back together.Found that large ribbon cable from unit control buttons was damaged easily when removing and would not reconnect.Figured I give it a try without it connected and to my amazement everthing works fine other than the controls on the unit itself.No more flickering colors or shutdown and all controls work fine just using the remote.The difference in colors is like getting a new bulb after cleaning the color wheel.I've gone back to std mode on the lamp and Peters great calibration #s.Now I just hope it last's till the 1080's go on sale for low prices.This may not be the cure for anyone else with a flickering problem but if your out of warr it's probably worth a try.

Guys,

In a totally dark room what are the "Best Settings" to achieve a Dynamic/Punchy/Vivid/Colorful picture...?!?

Regards,

Rana

Check out post 954 by Peter on page 32. I use those settings and the picture is great!

thanks for the tip. i'll try his settings :)

After a VERY long wait, Optoma has finally delivered on its long-promised firmware upgrade. This (free) upgrade reconfigures the HD65 so that it can support 120hz, thereby making it 3D-ready (like the HD66).

You'll still need an Optoma 3D-XL box or a home theater PC to drive the display as well as a 3D source device like the (firmware upgraded) PS3 and (of course) active shutter glasses. Still, you don't have to get another projector to enjoy 3D. I've got the HD66 and the 3D-XL box. Couldn't be happier with my setup.

http://www.optoma.co.uk/projectordetailshccs.aspx?ShowMenu=HE&PTypedb=Home%20Entertainment&PC=HD65%203D%20Upgrade

Wow! Awesome find! I have a HD700x and it's supported for the 3D firmware! Can't say thank you enough!

After a VERY long wait, Optoma has finally delivered on its long-promised firmware upgrade. This (free) upgrade reconfigures the HD65 so that it can support 120hz, thereby making it 3D-ready (like the HD66).

You'll still need an Optoma 3D-XL box or a home theater PC to drive the display as well as a 3D source device like the (firmware upgraded) PS3 and (of course) active shutter glasses. Still, you don't have to get another projector to enjoy 3D. I've got the HD66 and the 3D-XL box. Couldn't be happier with my setup.

http://www.optoma.co.uk/projectordetailshccs.aspx?ShowMenu=HE&PTypedb=Home%20Entertainment&PC=HD65%203D%20Upgrade

Does the 3D-XL come with 3D glasses for one person or two? Some places seem purposely vague on this, leading me to think that some vendors might be removing glasses from the box before selling it??

It depends on where you buy it and for how much. I just bought one from amazon and it came with one pair of glasses. One of the vendors that is selling it for 299 does remove the glasses.

I'd like to know if there is any additional functionality that is either gained or lost per this upgrade besides 3D capability.

Anyone else here get a chance to install it?

DirecTV does have a few 3D channels, it might be worth it for me to get the 3D box that Optoma sells - if I can get some feedback on how the whole shebang works.

After a VERY long wait, Optoma has finally delivered on its long-promised firmware upgrade. This (free) upgrade reconfigures the HD65 so that it can support 120hz, thereby making it 3D-ready (like the HD66).

You'll still need an Optoma 3D-XL box or a home theater PC to drive the display as well as a 3D source device like the (firmware upgraded) PS3 and (of course) active shutter glasses. Still, you don't have to get another projector to enjoy 3D. I've got the HD66 and the 3D-XL box. Couldn't be happier with my setup.

http://www.optoma.co.uk/projectordetailshccs.aspx?ShowMenu=HE&PTypedb=Home%20Entertainment&PC=HD65%203D%20Upgrade


If you do not plan to use the 3-D feature is there any benefit? (similar to 120hz LCD?) Any more smoothness in sports or similar fast action? Thank you.

If you are not going to use the 3d feature, I would absolutely not recommend thee update. It screws up the gamma settings, true vivid and a few other settings. Optima really needs to get this firmware straightened out, it has some serious issues. I would consider it alpha stage, not even beta. But, for the 3d functionality, it's worth the serious bugs. Nothing like beta testing for the manufacture.

If you are not going to use the 3d feature, I would absolutely not recommend thee update. It screws up the gamma settings, true vivid and a few other settings.

So I'm not the only one with these problems. Good to know.

hey guys, which ceiling mount do you use with the HD65 to keep it as close to the ceiling as possible?

i use the monoprice mount, and that has an 8-10inches drop. i like something shorter, maybee 4-5inches from ceiling? thanks

hey guys, which ceiling mount do you use with the HD65 to keep it as close to the ceiling as possible?

i use the monoprice mount, and that has an 8-10inches drop. i like something shorter, maybee 4-5inches from ceiling? thanks

Can you buy a pvc pipe that is the proper diameter for the rest of your mount, replace the stock part on your mount and cut the PVC to exactly the size you want? (and drill holes where appropriate in the PVC, of course)

I don't know what your mount looks like, but I've thought about doing it to mine (HD65), but in the opposite direction (extend the bar, not shorten it like you want to do).

Seems like an easy $0.85 experiment, anyway.

Has anyone had any issues with the color wheel in their HD65? I think I saw a green flash a while back and recently I've been hearing a slightly higher pitched whine coming from it. As a follow up, I bought it from BB and it's still covered by their extended warranty. Has anyone dealt with them on a projector issue?

Interesting that you should mention that..I've been seeing a quick purple flash once or twice during a movie..but I can't determine whether it's the projector or the BD player!

In my case, the fan hasn't changed pitch..
Anybody have any ideas on this?

I wouldn't worry about flashes unless they're consistent; could be anything (even a dropped HDMI connection). A change in pitch could be a dirty fan working harder--or something much worse. Thing is, it could operate like that for quite some time before you have a real problem. Depends how much you use it and how much warranty is left.

Mine are very inconsistent..I noticed the same thing on a TV program the other night, so I can rule out the BD player as the problem..
I'm beginning to suspect that the colour wheel might be sticking for an instant..
I have nearly 3000hrs. on the lamp..

I'm beginning to suspect that the colour wheel might be sticking for an instant..
I have nearly 3000hrs. on the lamp..

Isn't that about the lifetime of a bulb? When you replace it, you might want to do a light (air) cleaning. Sounds like you use it enough that there could be dust/dirt.

Well it looks like my HD65 went kaput. Started to get tons of white vertical lines and the image was doubled.

All in all I couldn't have asked much more from an entry level HD projector, I love my 3 years with this projector, but I'm upgrading to 1080p.

Good luck to all with this awesome projector and thanks for this awesome thread!

Isn't that about the lifetime of a bulb? When you replace it, you might want to do a light (air) cleaning. Sounds like you use it enough that there could be dust/dirt.
You could be right, however I'm planning to replace the projector with a 1080p when the lamp blows, so I'll just put up with it for now..

The lamp has just recently started to dim a little, so I would say that it's on it's last days..
Other than that, the unit has performed perfectly for all that time..

Does anyone have an idea of what it would cost to fix a bad HDMI input?I've tried component and composite and they work fine just no hdmi.I'll call Optoma to get a quote but just wondered if anyone else has dealt with this.

guys,

i'm planning to get a Optoma 3D-XL to compliment my HD65.

Anyone tried the above with success. Is the HD65 Bright enough to do justice to 3D..?

I do have a Da-lite high power 2.4 screen.

Thanks

Well it looks like my HD65 went kaput. Started to get tons of white vertical lines and the image was doubled.

All in all I couldn't have asked much more from an entry level HD projector, I love my 3 years with this projector, but I'm upgrading to 1080p.

Good luck to all with this awesome projector and thanks for this awesome thread!

Please come back and let us know what you bought.

Please come back and let us know what you bought.

I was debating between the Optoma HD20 and the Epson 8350.

I ended up going with the Epson 8350, mostly for the lens shift, and I'm happy with it. There is a clear difference between the HD65 and the the 8350.

Oh, and the HD65 is supper small compared to the 8350.

Just got an email stating that Optoma has released the updated 3D firmware.


http://www.optomaeurope.com/projectordetailshccs.aspx?ShowMenu=HE&PTypedb=Home%20Entertainment&PC=HD65%203D%20Upgrade

anyone tried the "New Updated HD65 3D Firmware"...? What are the improvements/corrections over previous versions...?

anyone tried the "New Updated HD65 3D Firmware"...? What are the improvements/corrections over previous versions...?

Have not installed it yet but here are the release notes:

Fw vC03 release notes:

1. Tuned Brilliant color level.
2. Fixed Degamma function.
3. Adjust Image AI reference threshold.
4. Fixed TrueVivid function.
5. Fixed OSD item: RGB Gain/Bias

(- "BC" Function allows quick-enable/disable of Brilliantcolor during 3D)

hope this brings back the 2D picture quality back to what is was before the 1st 3D Upgrade.

i just got the email for the newer firmware as well. wont be doing it until tom so if anyone does it before then plz post any improvements etc. cheers and merry xmas to all 65 owners!

Installed fine. All the issues with the Gamma, BC and TrueVivid settings are fixed.

do you think the excellent 2D picture quality that the HD65 had before the 1st "3D Upgrade" is back/restored ?

do you think the excellent 2D picture quality that the HD65 had before the 1st "3D Upgrade" is back/restored ?

I really hope it is, that way I can kill my Craigslist listing for my entire 3D setup. I was going to dump my HD700x/3DXL and grab a 6500UB. When I first got it I was OK with it but after the firmware update, picture quality really took a nose dive.

do you think the excellent 2D picture quality that the HD65 had before the 1st "3D Upgrade" is back/restored ?

After the first upgrade I was able to dial the picture back in once I figured out which settings were screwy. Put it back to the settings I had pre upgrade now and it looks close to what I had. I'm just happy I can switch the gamma settings because I prefer different settings when I'm playing video games versus watching movies.

Quick question. Do you need the XDL add on to use the 3d option or can you use Nvidia 3d vision? Anyone know?

Does the update fix the HDMI dropping issue? I don't really care about 3d, and 120hz might be nice, but that problem is the only thing that bugs me about this projector. I've had it for 2 years and have mostly figured out how to avoid it, but it's rearing its head again with the PS3 I just added to the system.

I have to change my switch to the proper source, turn on the source, and finally turn on the projector to make everything work. It's not a big deal and I've gotten used to it. It can be picky about changing sources, but I don't usually change sources once I start something. If it does lose the HDMI signal, sometimes it will not bring it back and I have to turn it off, let it cool down, then turn it back on. With the PS3, it likes to lose it for a second when it changes between screens. It usually finds the signal again pretty quick, but sometimes I have to restart the projector again. Does the update fix that at all?

You know there is a 'lock input' setting so that it won't cycle through inputs? I have never had the HDMI dropout problem you describe, but I run my projector cable direct (no amp & no switch).

Does the update fix the HDMI dropping issue? I don't really care about 3d, and 120hz might be nice, but that problem is the only thing that bugs me about this projector. I've had it for 2 years and have mostly figured out how to avoid it, but it's rearing its head again with the PS3 I just added to the system.

I have to change my switch to the proper source, turn on the source, and finally turn on the projector to make everything work. It's not a big deal and I've gotten used to it. It can be picky about changing sources, but I don't usually change sources once I start something. If it does lose the HDMI signal, sometimes it will not bring it back and I have to turn it off, let it cool down, then turn it back on. With the PS3, it likes to lose it for a second when it changes between screens. It usually finds the signal again pretty quick, but sometimes I have to restart the projector again. Does the update fix that at all?

Are you running it through a receiver? I run it through an ONKYO and occasionally have the issue. When powering on the receiver first, then the device, then the projector I never have the issue, it's when switching from one HDMI source to another with the receiver. I can avoid it dropping the signal by, when switching to the new source, if it doesn't lock on after a few seconds, I switch back to the previous source, which usually comes back on. I then try again until the new source locks. Anyway, I think it's a receiver issue, not a problem with the projector.

No, the sources go into a stand-alone HDMI switch and then to the projector. No receiver yet, although I'll eventually get one to clean up all the audio wires. I've never used the source lock button. I'll give it a shot since HDMI is all I've got run to it.

Still does it. They need to release a new firmware that lets you redo the handshake if you drop it. I have a friend with an HD20 and he can turn something off, let it go to a blue screen, then turn something back on and it will come on. If I tried that with this, I'd have to turn off the projector and turn it back on.

You shouldn't have to power cycle (I avoid that at all costs). Just manually force the input select in the HD65 to another input and then back to HDMI: eventually it will re-sync (don't do it too fast).

Not mine, once it loses teh HDMI signal, it's gone. Maybe something is wrong with it?

Not mine, once it loses teh HDMI signal, it's gone. Maybe something is wrong with it?

Possibly, but probably not worth the cost of repair.

Still does it. They need to release a new firmware that lets you redo the handshake if you drop it. I have a friend with an HD20 and he can turn something off, let it go to a blue screen, then turn something back on and it will come on. If I tried that with this, I'd have to turn off the projector and turn it back on.

Of course, you have tried your setup WITHOUT the switch in the "loop". IF not, I would start simplifying your connection in terms of cabling (short) and "directness" before do anything else (ie. sending it out for repair testing / repair).

Currently I have HD65 with 92" screen. I don't have the exact throw distance at this point (at work), but it's setup for 92" screen.

I'm looking to go with 132" screen, do I need move the projector further back (Ceiling mounted)? I was hoping that I don't have to, because I'd have to patch the holes and longer wires that will be visible along the ceiling.

How will HD65 project on 132" screen vs. 92" screen?

Yes you'll need to move pj back.
The 92 will have a better picture overall. I use to have 129" and now doing a 100". Pic is better.

For 132" pj will need to be back approx 16' from wall.

sdmfer - It seems as though the picture quality is much better in order for you to scale back to 100" screen vs. 129". Are you running hd65 as well?

What would you a say a next step up from hd65 for better picture quality? A picture quality that will be noticeable. I'd like to do 1080p, but not sure if that will make a huge diff. in quality if not being compared side by side.

sdmfer - It seems as though the picture quality is much better in order for you to scale back to 100" screen vs. 129". Are you running hd65 as well?

What would you a say a next step up from hd65 for better picture quality? A picture quality that will be noticeable. I'd like to do 1080p, but not sure if that will make a huge diff. in quality if not being compared side by side.

you are asking the right question at the right time. i literally JUST replaced my hd65 with an epson 8350. my screen is 131" and i was able to put the projector in the exact same place as the hd65. heres some pics of placement.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y287/hairynuts32/DSC00301.jpg

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y287/hairynuts32/DSC00532.jpg
the picture is night and day between the two. dont let anyone tell you theres not alot of difference between 720 and 1080 after a certain distance. i sit 19' back and the difference is night and day. sharpness and clarity are a ton better and the contrast, oh baby the contrast. going from 4000:1 to 50000:1 is so bad ass. space scenes look so different now. if you can afford to spend a few hundred more then i would HIGHLY recommend you look at the epson 8350. its by far the best budget 1080p projector out there right now.

Ginchy- Did you use your hd65 on 131" as well? I was thinking of upgrading to 1080p projector and larger screen. With my hd65 that is sitting about 12-13', I don't think I can upgrade to larger screen with the current throw distance. What do you think? Maybe, I'll read into epson 8350 and will stick with 92" screen.

you are asking the right question at the right time. i literally JUST replaced my hd65 with an epson 8350. my screen is 131" and i was able to put the projector in the exact same place as the hd65. heres some pics of placement.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y287/hairynuts32/DSC00301.jpg

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y287/hairynuts32/DSC00532.jpg
the picture is night and day between the two. dont let anyone tell you theres not alot of difference between 720 and 1080 after a certain distance. i sit 19' back and the difference is night and day. sharpness and clarity are a ton better and the contrast, oh baby the contrast. going from 4000:1 to 50000:1 is so bad ass. space scenes look so different now. if you can afford to spend a few hundred more then i would HIGHLY recommend you look at the epson 8350. its by far the best budget 1080p projector out there right now.

Ginchy- Did you use your hd65 on 131" as well? I was thinking of upgrading to 1080p projector and larger screen. With my hd65 that is sitting about 12-13', I don't think I can upgrade to larger screen with the current throw distance. What do you think? Maybe, I'll read into epson 8350 and will stick with 92" screen.

yeah i used the hd65 with the 131" screen. you can pretty much do whatever you want to do with the epson 8350. its so flexible in placement and screen size. good luck.

I too have occasional issues with handshaking. The solution for me is to turn on the HDMI device first (in this case a blu-ray player) and then turn on the projector. It means that I have the blu-ray player on if I'm using the R-G-B input for that particular evening, but it's a lot better than a handshaking problem. On my particular unit, the handshaking difficulty shows up as one of two things - either no signal, or an HDMI signal with a different resolution than the blu-ray player is sending - with the resultant artifacts.

Certainly not a deal-breaker with a 18 month old projector, but I'm awfully glad that I have a work-around for it.

Hi guys, just registered, but I'm using my belowed optoma hd65 since Feb 2009. Recently did major PC upgrade changing also graphic card from nvidia 9600gt onto msi radeon 6950. PC works fine and everything etc etc, but... There's something wrong with picture displayed by my PJ. The problem is that after recognising signal and switching from all blue picture into what actually my pc displayes the size of dispalyed picture is a bit smaller (~8%) than size of blue before that and with advised res 1280x720. It's just very thick black (ok let's say dark grey:) ) frame arround picture a nd changing for full hd makes those frames arround much thicker making overall picture 40% smaller. Didnt have that issue with my previous graphic card, but there was similar problem when I connected my hd65 to another radeon (old 3650). So is it commonly known problem with working solution? I would be really grateful for some useful advice. If that wrong section for asking about such things can you guys please provide link to proper page? Thank you.
Sry for my bad English.

I got the HD65's 3D to work with 3DVision/Acer inf and it looks awesome. The 120HZ signal works great when the HD65 is plugged into my PC directly via VGA; however, it isn't working over HDMI in full screen. I can get the 3d to work in Stereoscopic player, but I lose 3d and the signal goes down to a crazy resolution (1024x768 at 75HZ or something like that) when I enable full screen. My guess is insufficient bandwidth in the HDMI cable. I did the whole home theater install in November 2010, a 45 foot 22AWG Monoprice hidden beneath crown is carrying the signal from the projector to the wall plate and another 6 ft hdmi cable goes directly to my GT240's HDMI input (bypasses my Onkyo 806). Can anyone confirm/deny that it's the long run HDMI that's doing it? Would a new 45 foot cable help - I bought the cable right before the high speed cables came out. I can just go with a long run vga cable from the HD65 to PC, but it's ceiling mounted and requires a lot of moving around the PC. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!