Question to my fellow 200 owners out there... is there a way to instruct the 200 to display 720p HD material without scaling it, using only 720 lines of the panel? I've been noticing the difference between broadcasts that are 1080i and 720p much more this football season - observing more scaling artifacts when the projector is adapting 720p material to the 1080p panel. I was thinking that it might be interesting to compare the end result of optically zooming an un-scaled 720p signal compared to the 720p that has been upscaled to 1080p by the projector... but I haven't been able to find in the menus a way to tell the 200 to just present the native signal without internally scaling it.

Am I overlooking something?

Thanks
Kevin

No there isn't. The panels are native, something by 1080. (sorry I don't rember the something). Native means that what is it shows and it can omly show that. If you feed it 720p, the machine converts it to 1080p because its panels can only show 1080p.

Actually you would be better off sending in 1080i and just having it deinterlace it to 1080p. I have my DirecTV HD DVRs snd out 1080i no matter what. There is such a slight difference that when doing it that way gave me the most optimal picture. Especially with football. ;)

Joe.That's wrong! You should set the say DTV box to native. HD TV will as you know be broadcast either 720p or 1080i. your set top box if you are not careful could change 720p to 1080i or 1080i to 720p. This would be very bad. tMost feetball (hee hee) games will be broadcast in720p. If its being broadcast in 720p, let the projector scale it to1080p. You avoid deinterlacing and scaling it iwith the piss poor deinterlacer scaler in the DTV box. If it is broadcast in 1080i, let the projector deinterlace it to1080p. Avoid at all costs doing multiple deinterlacing or scales. Assuming the right distance from the screen for your eyeballs, a 720p native broadcast will look best on a 720p projector because no scaling will be necessary. But you and him don't have native 720p projectors. You have native 1080p.

I should point out that I send in 1080i exclusively to my VP50pro. I guess I could send in native and see what it looks like. Before the difference was always minimal. Who knows though, maybe a 720p football game will look slightly better...

I let my Lumagen take native in and output 1080p 60 except for bluray 1080p24. The reason I go 1080p 60 when the native in is 720p 60, is I sit too close to not see scan lines at 720p. If I sat 2 feet further back, you better believe i'd show 720p native. I have a CRT that allows me to display 720p, 1080p and a lot of other stuff. I can't display 1080p 24, the mother won't sync, so I output 1080p 24 in to my lLmagen as 1080p 48. The Lumagen won't do that (it doesn't have the output bandwidth) to do 1080p 72, or I'd do that.

Thanks Mark & Joe... I recognize all the options for scaling here or deinterlacing there in my current setup, but was wondering whether there was an option in the 200 to avoid scaling 720p - and that answer appears to be no. Thus far I've just been letting the 200 do it - will see what the EDGE does when it arrives (or maybe put my HDP back in the path for a bit.)

Kevin

It's more than it doesn't appear. A display chip or display panel as in say ia LCD panel can only do its native resolution.

Informations concerning the technology used in VW200 for convergences :

http://www.google.com/translate?u=http%3A%2F%2Fhdsoir.blogspot.com%2F2008%2F09%2Fl es-convergences.html&langpair=fr|en&hl=fr&ie=UTF8

Christopher the link seams to be broken. Can you repost, thank you!

It's more than it doesn't appear. A display chip or display panel as in say ia LCD panel can only do its native resolution.

Yes, it's clear that there will always be 1080 lines optically coming out of the 200. I suppose that what I was hoping for was a way to take a 720p signal and create a letterboxed (and probably pillarboxed to preserve aspect ratio) 1080p equivalent that only lit up the center portion of the screen and left the borders black. Most lcd computer monitors I've used provide the option of not scaling the signal but just presenting it with the pixels mapped 1:1 and leaving the rest black - I was just seeing if something similar existed here.

I'm thinking that maybe one of the full-function scalers might be able to produce this contortion (setting the display output to 1080p but squeezing down the input far enough to re-establish 1:1 pixel mapping in that inside window.) I know that it would be sacrificing a chunk of the available brightness if I zoomed after this contortion is achieved, but it would be an interesting comparision.

Heck... it might even be easier to just zoom the picture down some so the 720p > 1080p scaling artifacts would be harder to detect.

It has been a long time since I set my DirecTV box back in native. I will try it tonite and report back my findings... :)

I think thatmight be possible with an external video processor. Why don't you call DVDO and Lumagen and see if their processor could do this for you.

Joe. In the DTV box setup make sure you enable 480i, 720p, and 1080i as the allowable natives. Don't enable 480p.

...I suppose that what I was hoping for was a way to take a 720p signal and create a letterboxed (and probably pillarboxed to preserve aspect ratio) 1080p equivalent that only lit up the center portion of the screen and left the borders black. Most lcd computer monitors I've used provide the option of not scaling the signal but just presenting it with the pixels mapped 1:1 and leaving the rest black - I was just seeing if something similar existed here...IIRC the VW100 would not scale computer signals. 1280x720 would be displayed pillarboxed.

You got it perfectly. Make sure you set the 05 to High Speed and 4:4:4 for best results. I would also check and make sure the Denon does not have any menu settings for enabling deep color. Some receivers and pre/pros do. Also, make sure the 50pro has the 4:4:4 colorspace output. I also like setting the Edge Enhancement up a little to. And maybe the Fine to. Don't go crazy with them though. As for the 200 you will have to go by your own tastes. There are so many features to choose from. I like gamma OFF, Manual Iris set to 92 and Black Level LOW. Unless you decide to enable the x.v. Color then gamma and black level is up to the 200. So you will need to experiment and see what you like best. Keep us posted. :)

I notice only the forwardground parts of a movie are in sharp focus the rest is not in sharp focus almost like changing the aperture on a DSLR, is this normal and I never noticed prior on smaller screens or do I have an incorrect setting? My 200 is set to factory defaults. Also what is better the Pioneer 05 or the Denon 3800? I see there has been a lot of chat on what might be the new best setting if someone could let me know the latest and greatest I would truly appreciate.

I will be comparing those two Blu-ray players tomorrow... :)

AlfonsoArana welcome to the VW200 club and to the forum. The VW200 has a very good Zeiss lens. The VW200 does not allow you to use an external test pattern for focus you must use the internal pattern. What you are describing sounds content related. Can you tell us if when using the internal test pattern if you get uniform focus?

What is the concensus measured on/off of the VW200? IIRC Cine4Home had posted teasers on this forum of 6,000:1 (open) and 8,000:1 (closed) but never published their review :(. Cinemotion in this review measured ~7,000:1 and ~31,000:1 (DI)! Are there any other technical reviews?
http://translate.google.com/translate?hl=en&sl=fr&tl=en&u=http://www.cinemotion.biz/informacion.php%3Fiinfo%3D619

I have read that the Sonys, certainly including the VW-200 is a very quiet running front projector. Can anyone advise from personal experience with BOTH this VW-200 unit as compared to other popular fp's in this price range (e.g. Marantz, JVC are two that come to mind). I could research the "stated" db's that the manufacturers list, but I am a little skeptical.:)

Thanks for your advice.

Actually research all you want- the Sony is really that quiet. It is directly over my head and we never hear it... :)

I will be comparing those two Blu-ray players tomorrow... :)

Joerod,

Did you get a chance to compare the two blu-ray players? If so what did you think?

Due to a delay I haven't been able to compare yet. This weekend for sure. :)

These are my latest using a VP50pro, Denon 3800 and of course the VW200...
First, IRONMAN.... :)

Speed Racer, definitely reference material... ;)

Speed Racer, definitely reference material... ;)
Joe, looks nice which did you like better? The 05 or the 3800?
Thanks

Overall I like the 3800. It is much more stable and I have not had a single issue with any titles. Pic Q is very close at 1080p/24 but with the extra picture adjustments the 3800 can be tweaked for a slightly more superior image. Load times are faster with the 3800 as well. The latest firmware release for the Pioneer units has helped them with a lot of issues though but still I plan to keep the 3800 for awhile. The next and only player I plan to try the rest of the year will be the new Sony 5000ES.

Joe your pictures look great. If you get a chance also ck out "The Forbidden Kingdom" PQ is tops on the 200. Fun movie with a great sound track.
I am at 140 hours on my lamp. Im going to grab a spare off ebay before they are gone just to have a spare.

Thanks Alan. :) I will get that movie today... With as many hours as you already have on your new 200 I think grabbing a spare is a great idea...

I picked up one of the lamps also. Such a good deal, couldn't pass it up. Haven't received it yet.
He just put up another lot of 15. Wonder where he getting them? Must not have paid very much for them if he can let them go for under 310 bananas.
Has anyone that bought one tried it out yet?
I only have 75hrs on my 200, so it will be a while before I install it. Hope that it's not a dud.

Could someone PM either the seller name or a link to this seller? :)

Anyone here with VW200 looking to pick up a RS20? I would like hear your guys take between the 2.

I have to admit I looked at the RS2 and thought about making the move. I really did. Side by side though the main difference was the digital paths. The 200's is much more cleaner and does not have the noise the RS2 does. Now the RS20 could be different. But for the money I really doubt it. You get what you pay for and the 200 is no exception...

Thanks for the PMs on the bulb link. I am going to pick one up and put it in my spare lamp... :)

Joerod-
I would be very interested in you eyeballing that RS-20 and comparing it with your beloved VW-200. It would be very difficult for JVC to beat your lens, but otherwise, maybe they compete. Let us know when you see one !

Not to forget the Xenon lamp which helps with the 200's excellent colors. ;)
I would expect it to compete. Many of the under 10,000 do compete especially at first glance. It's when you really sit down and study them that is where some differences start to show. How big of a deal they are depends on the individual and how much they want to spend. :)

Just received the replacement lamp from the seller on ebay. Was surprised how heavy it is!
He put another 15 up. Guess he has a cheep supplier for them.
Just going to put it on the shelf for now as my 200 has less than 100hrs on it. Seems just as bright as when I first turned it on.

Just got a PM from a member asking about the auction on the lamps. The auction has ended. Although the closed auction shows 10 lamps still available, the seller has not re listed them.
In the past, I have learned the hard way that if you don't jump on deals like this when you find them, they may not come around again. (I should have bought 2 instead of 1!)
I emailed the seller and asked if he was going to re list them. Will post his reply.

The seller emailed me back and said that he will be re listing the bulbs in the next few days.

I just ordered two just in case he runs out. The price is to good to pass up.

U guys getting just the bulbs or housing with the bulbs?

U guys getting just the bulbs or housing with the bulbs?

Just the bulbs. Some surgery required.

The seller has relisted the bulbs. He has 7 left.

The seller emailed me back and said that he will be re listing the bulbs in the next few days.

Could someone kindly PM me the link.

Is it fairly simple to install a new bulb into the bul housing?

Thanks!

calore,
Check your PM. Sent you the info.

Could someone installing just the bulb describe the process & possibly take photos of the bulb replacement?

Someone already did in the Ruby lamp thread. I would just search. It is very good with pics and he describes each step...

Could someone installing just the bulb describe the process & possibly take photos of the bulb replacement?

The link (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=697416&page=6).

I did'nt know that the ruby uses the same bulb as the sapphire. Great thread. I wonder if those bulbs could fit in a pearl? I know problee not

I did'nt know that the ruby uses the same bulb as the sapphire. Great thread. I wonder if those bulbs could fit in a pearl? I know problee not

The Sony VW100, VW200 and Sony Qualia use a Xenon lamp that is not interchangeable with the Pearl. The Pearl uses a UHP lamp.

First time poster here, thought I would put in a note on my new setup and collect some opinions. Everything is in the planning/engineering stage.

Projector: VPL-VW200
Mount: Chief RPM020 Inverted Mount
Screen: Stewart Luxus Deluxe 100" 16:9 ratio FireHawk with Velux Frame
Receiver: Rotel: RSX-1560 - 7ch
BD: BDPS500 Blueray Player (sony)
Speakers-LCR: 3 Triad InWall Bronze/4 LCR
Speakers-SS: 4 InCeiling Silver/8 Omni
Subwoofer: 2 InWall Bronze/6 PowerSub (10" Woofers + 250Watt Inrack Amp)

Remote: Crestron TPMC-4XG (WiFi Touch Panel 3.5")

That's it for now, what do you think? :cool:

Kung Fu Panda!!! :)

Polar Express!!!

First time poster here, thought I would put in a note on my new setup and collect some opinions. Everything is in the planning/engineering stage.

Projector: VPL-VW200
Mount: Chief RPM020 Inverted Mount
Screen: Stewart Luxus Deluxe 100" 16:9 ratio FireHawk with Velux Frame
Receiver: Rotel: RSX-1560 - 7ch
BD: BDPS500 Blueray Player (sony)
Speakers-LCR: 3 Triad InWall Bronze/4 LCR
Speakers-SS: 4 InCeiling Silver/8 Omni
Subwoofer: 2 InWall Bronze/6 PowerSub (10" Woofers + 250Watt Inrack Amp)

Remote: Crestron TPMC-4XG (WiFi Touch Panel 3.5")

That's it for now, what do you think? :cool:

Welcome to the forum, very nice system :)

Kung Fu Panda!!! :)

Dam those look good. I have to order this one for myself.

It is reference quality... :)

I may jumping the gun here, but is there a way to save current settings if your not in user1,2 mode? One more, what's the perferred setting for sports with some ambient light?

I've followed this thread since the day it started, thinking it would be a snap to have it up and running to peak, still, there's always that learning curve. Joerod, I did notice you updated some of your setting on page 1, care to add a recap of any "tweaks" that might work. I will run a search on RCP and DRC, but these two have got me by the short hairs.

Intial thoughts (first pj), couldn't be any happier given the price range this machine falls in. Very quite, good looking, picture looks outstanding (even with my non tweaked up settings). I gave DLP every chance in the world, but for some reason, always came back to the sxrd format, just liked the overall look.

The last updates I gave on my current settings are stil current. :) They are back a couple pages... And to answer you question, yes. Your settings are saved for Cinema, Standard and Dynamic. I use Cinema for movies, Standard for DirecTV and Dynamic for sports with color on Wide and in gamma 3. That is good for ambient light as well. :)

I am looking forward to posting some screenshots of WALL*E soon... :)

Hi Everybody,

An absolutely amazing thread! I don't own a projector yet, but am thinking about purchasing the VW200 before Xmas. What I can't really figure out is the following:

1. I watch loads of HD TV series, all in 16:9 - so I guess a 16:9 screen + the projecotr itself will marry pretty well

2. I do also watch loads of movies however, BD through my PS3 via a Denon 4308 receiver. With the vw200 and a 16:9 screen however I'll get the black horizontal top/bottom bars, which I do NOT want

So, should I be:

1. Looking for an anamorphic lens (Isco + motorized stand) and go for a 2.5:1 screen?

2. get a video processor (cryslalio II) to convert 2.35 or 1.77 to the screen I get?

What would be the best setup. I live in Holland and there are not so many dealers around where I can go and see a setup, so have to do a lot of Internet reading and potentially decide witout actually seeing it..

Thanks in advance: Rossen

Welcome to the forum Rossen.

I would eliminate number 2 in preference to keeping the 1:1 pixel mapping maintaining max resolution.

This leaves purchasing a 235:1 screen with an anamorphic lens or going with your 16x9 idea ( and Joes ) and adding a vertical masking system. Ether way no more black bars.
Take a look at Joes system for some ideas. Adding the masking system can be cheaper then adding a quality lens system and it does indeed maintain 1:1. Joe can add some specifics, he da man:)

I saw the SONY VW200 set up in the office while Jason was giving a demo, and it had a killer picture!

If i can get Alan to give me a raise, maybe someday i can afford one of these ;)
Must be nice to have the AV Science employee discount. :)

Alan, give Cindy a raise!

I should go and work with AVS. :)

Many thanks Alan. I'm now considering a TheatreArt from Vutec 16:9 w/horizontal masking for the vw200. I keep reading the screen has a 6.0 gain and incredible picture, but Vutec do not have any dealers in Holland and their European rep was not able to arrange for a weekend demo for me, but has kindly sent me a small sample of the screen so I can test it.

Joe - I understand you have this screen. Can you please share how does it come together with the vw200? I don't have a dedicated room, so expect to have some ambient light while watching it (which is why I'm considering a higher gain screen)

Thanks in advance: Rossen

Many thanks Alan. I'm now considering a TheatreArt from Vutec 16:9 w/horizontal masking for the vw200. I keep reading the screen has a 6.0 gain and incredible picture, but Vutec do not have any dealers in Holland and their European rep was not able to arrange for a weekend demo for me, but has kindly sent me a small sample of the screen so I can test it.

Joe - I understand you have this screen. Can you please share how does it come together with the vw200? I don't have a dedicated room, so expect to have some ambient light while watching it (which is why I'm considering a higher gain screen)

Thanks in advance: Rossen
If you're referring to the Vutec Silverstar, read Tryg's review here:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=262466

You can find more reviews of high gain screens in Tryg's signature.

joerod has commented on how the Silverstar works with his VW200 earlier in the thread. Search the thread for "Silverstar" and also try "SS".

Jason has commented he feels the Silverstar is not a good choice for rooms with ambient light. That would be because it is an angular reflective screen.

hrd is right. I have posted about the SS and 200 combo (not to mention other PJs) many times before. Being brief I will say it is a very good combo. I also use a Carada Masquerade Masking System which yeilds excellent results. Here are a few pics taken from before... :)

hrd is right. I have posted about the SS and 200 combo (not to mention other PJs) many times before. Being brief I will say it is a very good combo. I also use a Carada Masquerade Masking System which yeilds excellent results. Here are a few pics taken from before... :)

Been using a 123" SilverStar for 3 Projectors. Works great with the VW200!

I have been very happy with it. :) Watching movies and watching sports.

Is there a way to get to the a-zoom without having to toggle thru all of the wide mode options? I've tried saving it in the "user" settings but for some reason the Sony wouldn't remember the zoom part. This one has me stumped, any help sure would be appreciated.

I did some experimenting lastnite. I was watching the game (Giants/Cowboys) and decided I like AUTO IRIS 1 with it set to Fast. I am still using the other settings (dynamic, Black level HIGH and Gamma 3, with Film PJ mode set to 3 and of course MotionFlow on HIgh)... I just thought I would let everyone know since it seems to increase contrast level and help give the picture more of a POP. I still like my Manual setting for the IRIS for movies though... :)

Did some more playing during the Eagles/Browns game and now I like everything from the above post but found an even darker level with more contrast and slightly more POP using Auto Iris 2 with Fast engaged... :eek:

Hi Im encountering some noise from what (I think) may be a loose screw perhaps related to the fan ie the 'noise' starts up about 30-60secs after turning on the PJ.

Its not crazy loud but bloody annoying as we sit directly under the PJ.

How do you get the top off the Sony so I can take a look-does it slide off or does it have screws to hold it in place.

Appreciate any help.:(

Is it a brand new unit or have you recently changed the lamp?

I guess I am a member or the vw200 club now. Received it today, upgrading from the Ruby. I like very much what I am seeing so far. In spite of the often invidious observations about sony products, I very much like both the dark frame insertion and the motion flow features so far. The superior lens quality is quite evident, not so much in just sharpness, but overall perceptual watchability and visual processing, and the colors are great. I am glad I stuck with the Xenon lamp. Every UHP I have seen, even an expensive Sim2 type, seem to have a slight grey blue cast by comparison, or orange tries to compensate for bright red. I guess correcting for the jaggy primaries is difficult on the non xenon bulbs. Contrast is wonderful both on off and ANSI, closer to CRT. CRT still holds the "black velvet" sensuousness title, though. I don't think most observers would miss it much with the vw200, especially in light of the sony's great all around performance and brightness (new bulb).

Hi guys,

I posted here a while ago stating that I thought the VW200 was a great machine. Its only drawback is its light output. I also said at the time that it was the first, and only, LC based machine I had seen that I considered capable of a truly great image.

I recently tested the JVC 750, and reported my opinions in the relevant thread. Its a great machine for the money, no question.

My original opinion remains unchanged. The VW200 still remains the best LC based image available.

I was asked, via pm, to post my opinion. I just did.

Thanks for sharing coldmachine. :) I would like to see it side by side with the new VW80 model. I would still bet the 200's colors would win but would be very curious to see overall pic Q compared.

Thanks for sharing coldmachine. :)

No problem at all Joe, I just call it as I see it. Any one who doesn't like what I have to say can just bend over and take one for the team.:D

Nice to see you're still happy with the PJ.

Cold Machine,

Have you seen the VW80? Many are calling it better than the 200 for half the price. Interested in your take...

Yes CM, we need to know which one qualifies for the "uberness" award;)

Cold Machine,

Have you seen the VW80? Many are calling it better than the 200 for half the price. Interested in your take...

No, but I will straight after New Year.

It looks like a whole mess of people are getting VW80's in from Oz next week, let the competition begin! Sony brochure still claims the color superiority of the Xenon light and the Zeiss lens over the UHP models. The VW80 has a higher contrast figure (newer panels?), but the VW200 has such deep, saturated blacks in film mode 1, I have a little trouble wondering if you need any more.
The Ruby was "cinematic" in the sense that it seemed to be very close to the kind of picture I see in my local high quality cinema. Movies in my local movie theaters never get CRT black levels, they always have a kind of muddy green grey wash on blank screens. CRT's and the VW200 seem "hyper cinematic", even better than a standard movie on a high quality screen in regard to blacks and the shifting between light and dark.

It looks like a whole mess of people are getting VW80's in from Oz next week, let the competition begin! Sony brochure still claims the color superiority of the Xenon light and the Zeiss lens over the UHP models. The VW80 has a higher contrast figure (newer panels?), but the VW200 has such deep, saturated blacks in film mode 1, I have a little trouble wondering if you need any more.
The Ruby was "cinematic" in the sense that it seemed to be very close to the kind of picture I see in my local high quality cinema. Movies never get CRT black levels, they always have a kind of muddy green grey wash on blank screens. CRT's and the VW200 seem "hyper cinematic", even better than a standard movie on a high quality screen in regard to blacks and the shifting between light and dark.


Yes mine arrives tomorrow it will be interesting to see. I guess even if its close at a 1/4 the msrp ill be happy :).

Like I posted I really don't expect the VW80 to pass the 200 in overall pic Q but even if it comes close it will be the best bang for the buck PJ. I should get one so I can do a side by side.... :)

I was pretty happy with the Ruby, but coming from CRT a few years ago, I decided to up the contrast ante with the VW200 since it was reported as being closer to CRT. I really wasn't prepared for the VW200's increase in picture quality, given that the Ruby is already so good. I have seen the Sim2 C3x 1080 in another home theater, and for a smaller screen and lower light output, the VW200 seems at least comparable in overall picture quality and better in color, texture and contrast. This is apples and oranges, however, the Sim2 has a stellar image and is certainly the choice for a larger screen. The Sim2 has a very alluring overall picture, no matter what you might cite about specific points of image. I am a consumer and more of an audiophile than a videophile, so the machine heads don't need to attack my assessment.
I love the black frame insertion of the VW200, it is really wonderful. Makes me wonder where the "official critics" were coming from, since they all seemed to think that this feature was better left off. Maybe they didn't get to keep their review samples. If the VW80 is even close, it certainly is a bargain.

I came from a Ruby and right before the 200 the VW60 (Black Pearl). In both instances I was happy with the performance of the 200. It is easily two steps higher than the Ruby and I would say one and half more so than the Black Pearl. Mainly colors push it on top. And a few other features. Oh and the Zeiss lens helps to. :)

I would have been happy with an "upgraded Ruby" with better lens and higher contrast. The VW200 is better than that so far, and the features are a big bonus. It is hard to cite the effect of subtle light and dark and colors merging into black that the projector conveys, very nice.

Both Joe and I sourced our machine from Craig. Craig is just a few hour drive from me & knowing this would be a slow roll out I did not want to wait and did not mind the drive. Joe beat me to the punch and got his up and running first:)
Like Joe I have not had very much time with the projector but more will come over the weekend including a few screen caps.
I still have my Ruby & I spent time with the VW60 so I have a good reference to compare. Ive always felt the Ruby had a richer pallet over the VW60. The VW100 had a few circuits that were removed from the 50 & 60 and I do not know if that accounted for what I was seeing.
I have to say anyone coming from CRT to digital is going to love this thing. Convergence was dead on out of box, very impressive. But the zone convergence is amazing. Never thought we would see anything like it on a digital. The colors are very rich on the 200 and the black level is deep. Unlike Joe I have not done to much viewing with HD video content but have focused most of my time so far with movie material sourced from BD at 24hz. I was always concerned with the slight ringing associated with the VW100 but I can say the 200 has none. A nice smooth image that does not introduce any EE. She takes 24hz just fine. I also tried 48 but it displayed it as 50hz in the information menu and stutterd so 60 & 24 are its preferred vertical scan rate. Using the blank frame insertion works great and I love it. There are 3 settings. Each one drops the light output by a noticeable amount but also improving black level. I preferred using #1. It does add the same flicker you would see at the theater. It is not noticeable in the dark scenes but you can see it in the bright picture area. While I am a film buff and love it I am sure there will be some who will choose to bypass this feature. For myself it brings me one step closer to film but you do lose a chunk of brightness using it but to me its very cool!
Combine the BFI with use of the dynamic iris and you have one rich image with great black level. Brightness is on par with the VW100.
Another thing I am happy about. When I visited the service menu in the VW60 all the goodies I was use to seeing in the VW100 were missing. The VW200 has them all. This will allow some experimenting for those brave enough to operate on their 16k projector.
I did try HD video for a few minutes and threw on the 120hz feature. I did see some breaking up of some letters when set to low almost as if it was not able to keep up with the motion but set to High it was unreal. I agree with Joe this machine has a few tricks up its sleeve and kicks butt with some fresh features.
It also offers all the needed aspect ratios for using a anamorphic lens and dont forget it has the Color Management. It really performs like a CRT FP.
Ill post more through out the weekend and grab a few screen shots.

http://gallery.avsforum.com/data/509/IMG_6429.JPG
Look at that finish. Sony knows how to make a good looking projector.
http://gallery.avsforum.com/data/509/IMG_6432.JPG

If I got one of those bad boys I would let NO-ONE touch it. Seeing a fingerprint even on the fan vent will make me mad!xD

These are of Troy Blu ray using the Pioneer 09FD going straight into the VW200...

King Kong Blu ray using the same player.... :)

These are of Troy Blu ray using the Pioneer 09FD going straight into the VW200...

What happened to the Sony S5000ES BD player?

I still have it. I was doing a comparison study between the Denon 3800, S5000ES and the Pioneer 09FD. I am keeping the 09FD and S5000ES (family room). :)

Been absent from here for awhile but now over 1200 hours on the VW200 lamp In 12 months) and am looking at replacing it soon.:rolleyes:

However the complete assembly relacement Lamp for Sony LMP-H400 used in the VPL-VW200 is quite expensive. What about replacing only the "Pure 400 watt xenon source" alone? I see such a lamp is around half the cost.:D

Is this replacement difficult? Anyone know?:)

I'm reasonably capable of these sort of jobs unless too tricky and requiring special tools.

TIA

John

They have a dedicated thread on just replacing the bulb for less than half. :)

Pic 1 is a scary close up of the Joker. Pic 2 is a great test scene since a lot of times you will see noise and or moire'. Not with the VW200/09FD combo. And pic 3 is just a close up of Batman...

They have a dedicated thread on just replacing the bulb for less than half. :)

Please give me the link. Who is "they"??

TIA

John

Please give me the link. Who is "they"??

TIA

John

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=697416&highlight=ruby+bulb

I will say the VW200 is capable of being very bright and it lights up my 120.5" screen from about 15 feet away easily.


I'm going way back here for a somewhat off topic question. I am (now thanks to this thread in part) leaning toward something in this category, but more research will inevitably follow.

My question is this. I am in the process of building my basement. I have designed it around the theater room. Before putting in the middle walls, the guy who is doing the construcion (I am not a carpenter for sure) said that the width is 19', and his Optoma HD803 was supposed to focus at 14.5' on his 110" (diag) screen, and wouldn't so he ended up having to move it back to 20'. I don't have 20', so tonight went down and remeasured the basement, and redesigned it for 20'. (outside walls are up, but inside aren't yet). I went and looked at his theater and it is indeed like he says, and at 20' the 110" is as small as it appears to go. It was odd, cause he said at 15' it would only do a 96", so he would have not been able to use all of his screen, so I guess he couldn't get it big enough? and he had to move it back to 20', and now the 110" is as small as it will go. I'm a bit confused about the whole thing, but don't want to set my basement up from scratch incorrectly (i'm an old CRT guy, and don't know anything about these at all)

so my questions is. Will the vw200 be fine for a 120" (what I want to get) screen under 20' (looks like it was ok with 15?) or should I move my walls?

sorry kind of off topic, but I'd appreciate any help. I need to let them know shortly where to put the walls, as they're ready to continue construction.

I guess, in case I don't end up with the vw200, just some general info if possible about actual operating sizes, and if they're different from what they say and what you actually use. (ie. factory specs told him 14.5' apparently but he had to move it to 20') I'm mainly going by what he said, which raised concerns for my room size.

thanks for any help/feedback
dan

also, complete lamp assembly setups for these on ebay are around 900.00 is that the norm? (sorry I only made it about 1/2 way through the thread before bedtime and wanted to ask!)

I'm going way back here for a somewhat off topic question. I am (now thanks to this thread in part) leaning toward something in this category, but more research will inevitably follow.

My question is this. I am in the process of building my basement. I have designed it around the theater room. Before putting in the middle walls, the guy who is doing the construcion (I am not a carpenter for sure) said that the width is 19', and his Optoma HD803 was supposed to focus at 14.5' on his 110" (diag) screen, and wouldn't so he ended up having to move it back to 20'. I don't have 20', so tonight went down and remeasured the basement, and redesigned it for 20'. (outside walls are up, but inside aren't yet). I went and looked at his theater and it is indeed like he says, and at 20' the 110" is as small as it appears to go. It was odd, cause he said at 15' it would only do a 96", so he would have not been able to use all of his screen, so I guess he couldn't get it big enough? and he had to move it back to 20', and now the 110" is as small as it will go. I'm a bit confused about the whole thing, but don't want to set my basement up from scratch incorrectly (i'm an old CRT guy, and don't know anything about these at all)

so my questions is. Will the vw200 be fine for a 120" (what I want to get) screen under 20' (looks like it was ok with 15?) or should I move my walls?

sorry kind of off topic, but I'd appreciate any help. I need to let them know shortly where to put the walls, as they're ready to continue construction.

I guess, in case I don't end up with the vw200, just some general info if possible about actual operating sizes, and if they're different from what they say and what you actually use.

thanks for any help/feedback
dan
Jmjloo, I'm an ex CRT guy (Barco 808s - still unsold) but replaced it with a VW200 and am pleased.

To answer your question, my VW200 book says:

For a 100 (&120") 16:9 screen

Minimium distances are 122 25 (147")

Max distances are 210" (232 3/8")

So the 110" is inbetween. And I cannot see 20' as necessary.

John

perfect, just what I needed to know, thanks!

dan

Jmjloo, I'm an ex CRT guy (Barco 808s - still unsold)
John

I can add (2) Ronco's to that CRT pile :mad:

If I had HELP - I'd probably lug them to the
dump and get them out of my basement.

This movie is pure eye candy and the VW200/09FD dual prove to be outstanding. :) The amount of detail... :eek: And of course laughs! :D

I love the monkeys and penguins! They steal the show! :D

Hey everybody,

What screen would you purchase for a VW200?

I have the projector going to a white wall now in a non controlled light room, thats a loft.

The throw distance is about 16 feet, im considering a 16:9 format, my viewing environment is quite lightly, but at night for the most the time is decently dark. Id go for a fixed (Luxus Deluxe) 110" diagonal Stewart screen, but im not really sure about the screen material.

Should i go for a SST?, ... or a Greyhawk?, ... a Firehawk maybe?.


Thanks in advance.

MV

Any news on a potential replacement for this projector? It's got to be nearing two years for this unit being available. I can wait a few months if there's something on the horizon.

Any news on a potential replacement for this projector? It's got to be nearing two years for this unit being available. I can wait a few months if there's something on the horizon.

http://translate.google.com/translate?prev=_t&hl=en&ie=UTF-8&u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.hdsoir.com%2F%3Fp%3D3351&sl=fr&tl=en&history_state0=

But still no sign of them.

http://translate.google.com/translate?prev=_t&hl=en&ie=UTF-8&u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.hdsoir.com%2F%3Fp%3D3351&sl=fr&tl=en&history_state0=

But still no sign of them.

The "****-lens" (sic) sounds interesting. :D

It will be interesting to see what they release his fall...

I do not believe the VW200 sold all that well, so not surprising there has been no successor - current economic climate is also not so accommodating to a $$$ projector.

I remain extremely happy with my 200 - would like to have a better implementation of motionflow (240 hz?), but otherwise no real complaints.

would like to have a better implementation of motionflow (240 hz?), but otherwise no real complaints.

I think there are some flat panel panel displays on the market with 240 already.
I have yet to see one myself.

I loved my VW200 and only sold it because of the business side. I would love to see Sony do a VW90 with 240 motionflow and better contrast as well as support Deep Color (upconverted to 48 bit)... Now that would be interesting. :)

I think there are some flat panel panel displays on the market with 240 already.
I have yet to see one myself.

Nor have I seen one. I would be skeptical that 3 interpolated frames for every real one could be an imporvement .... but, worth seeing.

Joe - When did you sell your 200? No wonder this thread has been slow of late :)

I actually moved it a couple weeks ago for a FPJ1/RS2, then shortly after RS20. :)

I am sure the power supply in the 200 would light that 800 watter but I would worry about the additional heat. I wish someone would design a projector with no bulb allowing us to put a xenon lamp house of choice and wattage to its back end.

I actually moved it a couple weeks ago for a FPJ1/RS2, then shortly after RS20. :)

I am a proud owner of a VW200.:) Been reading this thread and its been great fun, but seems it run into a sudden joerod wall.:mad: I think joerod owes us (VW200 owners) a better explanation than this, and a RS20 to boot after all his JVC quotes before on this thread.:confused: For all you other proud owners of the VW200, do any of you have any more info. on the VW80 and how it compares to the VW200.:D

I am a proud owner of a VW200.:) Been reading this thread and its been great fun, but seems it run into a sudden joerod wall.:mad: I think joerod owes us (VW200 owners) a better explanation than this, and a RS20 to boot after all his JVC quotes before on this thread.:confused: For all you other proud owners of the VW200, do any of you have any more info. on the VW80 and how it compares to the VW200.:D

I will gladly give you a more detailed explanation. I was looking to sell my VW200 with the intent of looking at the newer Sony VW90 (possible model number) coming hopefully around August/September. If I waited any longer to sell my VW200 I would have lost my entire shirt. You see, I am not built like others who don't mind keeping the same PJ for 3 to 5 years (or even longer). I had the VW200 for 16 or 17 months. For me that is a loooong time. Don't go by me, it is not like I woke up one morning and thought the grass was greener on the other side. I do miss my 200. Mainly the great accurate, rich colors and the much better fluid panning. Think of this as more of a business decision for me. I will most likely keep the RS20 until the newer Sony hits. Then I will keep that Sony until a possible Sony VW300 appears. I do have a well thought out gameplan. Besides, if I kept the same one to long then I couldn't do my reviews and takes... :)

Above all it was nothing personal. ;)

Thought I post this here as this concerns HDMI problems some might have encountered and were looking for a solution for on the internet. I chose these “official” Sony VW200 Projector thread and the Iscan V30 A/V Processor thread as this conserns both these products but is also realy a HDMI “cable lenght” problem and solution listing.

To make a long story short I have all my “low definition” (DVD, Cable, LD, S-Beta-D-VHS) hardware conected to the VP30 and then to the VW200 HDMI 2 input but the “high definition” (BR, HDDVD) hardware conected to the HDMI 1 input, but thats another story. The problems concern the HDMI2 input connection.

Problem 1.

First I conected a 10 m QED Cunex HDMI-P cable to the VW200 from the VP30 and found the picture to be much “grainier” and overall not so good a picture than I knew was possible with a shorter HDMI lead.

Solution 1.

I then added a Clicktronick HDMI repeater/extender to the end of the 10m Qed cable (as suggested in the Clicktronick user manual as in most HDMI r/e instructions) and then a 1,5m HQ HDMI cable from the HDMI r/e to the VW200. The picture cleard up, the “grain” element was gone and I had a good overall picture.

Problem 2.

I now found the VP30 was not performing as it was intended with this setup. I only got it to send a 1080P/50 signal to the VW200 and that something was blocking a full 1080P/60 upconversion. Whatever I did the VP30 only managed unlocked framerates outputs of 24, 48, nothing higher and performed strangely overall (changing chosen values for output, framerate, colour space etc.)?

Solution 2.

Moved the Clicktronic to the front of the Qed cable that is the VP30 front but not and I repeat not at the projector end as usually suggested with all these HDMI repeaters/extenders. Now the picture is fine and the VP30 works with all outputs signals including 1080p60 as it should.

Just thought I share this with the forum even if these “official” VW200 and VP30 threads seem to be mostly “dead” now, for a lack of a better word. Anyway if anyone in the “expert field” cares to comment on these findings, that would be interesting. If not here are at least some solutions listed for people looking for HDMI extender/repeater solutions on the internet. Hope someone finds them helpfull.

Good points. I have used Gefen Superboosters at both the front and ed of my 35 foot HDMI cable runs. Both have worked well. I have never had an issue. I did have issues with a couple other brands of HDMI booster/repeaters though.

Good points. I have used Gefen Superboosters at both the front and ed of my 35 foot HDMI cable runs. Both have worked well. I have never had an issue. I did have issues with a couple other brands of HDMI booster/repeaters though.

Do you still have the VP50? Did you have any problems like this between the VW200 and the VP50?

I had zero issues between the VP50 pro, crystalio II, Edge VP and other units as well.

I am a proud owner of a VW200.:) Been reading this thread and its been great fun, but seems it run into a sudden joerod wall.:mad: I think joerod owes us (VW200 owners) a better explanation than this, and a RS20 to boot after all his JVC quotes before on this thread.:confused: For all you other proud owners of the VW200, do any of you have any more info. on the VW80 and how it compares to the VW200.:D

I'm going to go out on a limb here and make a generalization ...

As an owner now of three different Sony lcos projectors now, and having recently seen the VW80, it is my sense that the lower-priced models take two generations to catch up to the pricier models. So, the VW60 was not the overall equivalent of the VW100, but the VW70 was. Likewise, the VW80 is not the equivalent of the VW200, but perhaps the VW90 will be!

The inevitablity of trickle down performance into less costly models over time is inevitable, and owning a VW200 gves one leading-edge performance for a while - but at a cost.

I am very happy with my VW200, and given its relatively low level of use, will try to resist the allure of a VW300, should it appear.

There is only one new high end model coming in the fall. It will be a replacement for the 70/80 and will be priced at $8K. It should significantly improve on the 200 in all regards except for not having a xenon bulb. Most people, you not included, just don't appreciate the benefits and costs of a xenon bulb. Ignorance is bliss but that said the other improvement could outweigh the benefits of a xenon bulb, I think Sony will have a real breakthrough model with the coming projector. We shall see. Hope to see you again one of these days.

For those who don't know him, Calore is one class guy and I am proud to call him a friend.

I'm going to go out on a limb here and make a generalization ...

As an owner now of three different Sony lcos projectors now, and having recently seen the VW80, it is my sense that the lower-priced models take two generations to catch up to the pricier models. So, the VW60 was not the overall equivalent of the VW100, but the VW70 was. Likewise, the VW80 is not the equivalent of the VW200, but perhaps the VW90 will be!

The inevitablity of trickle down performance into less costly models over time is inevitable, and owning a VW200 gves one leading-edge performance for a while - but at a cost.

I am very happy with my VW200, and given its relatively low level of use, will try to resist the allure of a VW300, should it appear.

I could not have posted this any better. And believe it or not I am selling my RS20 and coming right back to Sonyland! :eek: I just don't know which PJ yet. I have plans to get a new VW90 this fall so now I am trying to decide on either a 70 or 80 to hold me over or even possibly getting another 200... Yes, you read that right... :)

There is only one new high end model coming in the fall. It will be a replacement for the 70/80 and will be priced at $8K. It should significantly improve on the 200 in all regards except for not having a xenon bulb. Most people, you not included, just don't appreciate the benefits and costs of a xenon bulb. Ignorance is bliss but that said the other improvement could outweigh the benefits of a xenon bulb, I think Sony will have a real breakthrough model with the coming projector. We shall see. Hope to see you again one of these days.

For those who don't know him, Calore is one class guy and I am proud to call him a friend.

This is why it makes it tougher to decide what PJ to get now. If I get another 200 I will be in the same exact boat come August. If I get another 200 I might as well plan to stick with it until a 300 comes. Damn, sometimes this "hobby" is hard... :D

We won't see a 300 in this economy. Sony is cutting back from the high end. Their projector line up will be $3K to $3.5K and $8K. Not enough market for a new 415K projector. They are getting out of the high priced zone lighting LCDs too. Unfortunately, times have changed.

So my main options are to grab either a VW70 (used for cheap) or import an 80 and keep either or until the new VW90 hits OR bite it and get a 200 and plan to keep it until the cows come home... So option A or B? :)

I'm going to go out on a limb here and make a generalization ...

As an owner now of three different Sony lcos projectors now, and having recently seen the VW80, it is my sense that the lower-priced models take two generations to catch up to the pricier models. So, the VW60 was not the overall equivalent of the VW100, but the VW70 was. Likewise, the VW80 is not the equivalent of the VW200, but perhaps the VW90 will be!

The inevitablity of trickle down performance into less costly models over time is inevitable, and owning a VW200 gves one leading-edge performance for a while - but at a cost.

I am very happy with my VW200, and given its relatively low level of use, will try to resist the allure of a VW300, should it appear.

Actually thinking back I remembered I did a long A/B comparison of the VW60 and the Ruby. I favored the VW60 in every category except rich color (due to the xenon of course). Early reports over there have the 80 as good or better in most categories than the 200 except in one major area. You guess it, color again. So if Sony is taking a break from expensive flagships as Mark suggested, I would expect a VW90 to surpass the 200 given it will have now been out since Nov 07. The specs actually favor the VW70 in some categories over the 200. I am sure the 200 is the all around better pj (especially with color) but if the 70 comes close in some areas than that should be another sign a VW90 will most likely pass it. Just some more food for thought while I ponder my strategy... :)

I could not have posted this any better. And believe it or not I am selling my RS20 and coming right back to Sonyland! :eek:

Motion issues aside and with the soon to be fixed CMS I would have thought that the RS20 would compare pretty well to any of the Sony's and in low APL scenes still best them, so why the return to the fold.

I have seen a 60 hz sony panel compared to a 120hz sony panel and compared to a 240hz Sony. there is a hugh improvement on pans of vertical elements going from 60 to 120 and a lesser but still significant improvement going from 120 to 240. this demo was done at the sony dealer show in Vegas late Feb, early April. It stands to reason considering the jumps, 120 splits the two real frames with an additional generated frame at .5 across the gap. 240 inserts three generated frames splitting the gap into .25 segments. Things obviously get smoother. The problem is the frames are artificial, really dependent on the generation algs and the processing power. On the limited loop sample they displayed, I definitely prefered the 240.

When the 90 or whatever the number is, it should obliterate the 70\80 substantially reducing their value.

I think Joe`s unhappiness with the RS20 is the motion blur. Nothing is perfect except for Joe`s wife and her willingness to put up with Joe`s projector switcheritis. Its chronic.

Hell Joe. Cedia is only four months away. Suffer with something cheap. Summer is coming. Get out of your HT and smell the roses. Go with the great deal you found on the 70. Wait a few months for the 90.

Motion issues aside and with the soon to be fixed CMS I would have thought that the RS20 would compare pretty well to any of the Sony's and in low APL scenes still best them, so why the return to the fold.

I am just to used to the Sony models and smoother panning. Everytime there is a panning scene I see the jerkiness. I guess I had the VW200 and VW60 and Ruby all before which spoiled me. I think the RS20 does put out a terrific picture though. And its gamma trick really makes night scenes look amazing. And I am sure the new CMS firmware will make current owners even more happier. The RS20 is very good and deserves the hype.

When the 90 or hatever the number is, it should obliterate the 70\80 substantially reducing their value.

I think Joe unhappiness with the RS20 is the motion blur. Nothing is perfect except for Joe`s wife and her willingness to put up with Joe`s projector switcheritis. Its chronic.

Hell Joe. Cedia is onlyfour months away. Suffer with something cheap. Summer is coming. Get out of your HT and smell the roses. Go with the great deal you found on the 70. Wait a few months for the 90.

Mark said it perfectly. :) I am damn lucky she puts up with my PJ switching. To my credit though I hadn't changed until last month and before that I had the 200 since Nov 07. I am going to either go with plan A and take the 70 deal or just ride it out with the RS20 until August.... Thanks Mark. :)

Actually thinking back I remembered I did a long A/B comparison of the VW60 and the Ruby. I favored the VW60 in every category except rich color (due to the xenon of course). Early reports over there have the 80 as good or better in most categories than the 200 except in one major area. You guess it, color again. So if Sony is taking a break from expensive flagships as Mark suggested, I would expect a VW90 to surpass the 200 given it will have now been out since Nov 07. The specs actually favor the VW70 in some categories over the 200. I am sure the 200 is the all around better pj (especially with color) but if the 70 comes close in some areas than that should be another sign a VW90 will most likely pass it. Just some more food for thought while I ponder my strategy... :)

My experience was somewhat different. Coming from a top-of-the-line CRT projector, i have remained quite sensitive to the slightly artificial, digital look of many dlp, lcd, and lcos projectors. The VW100 and 200 remain, for me, the most natural looking of the Sony projecotrs and that trumps absolute resolution or sharpness any day.

We won't see a 300 in this economy. Sony is cutting back from the high end. Their projector line up will be $3K to $3.5K and $8K. Not enough market for a new $15K projector. They are getting out of the high priced zone lighting LCDs too. Unfortunately, times have changed.

No doubt! Plus, if models like the VW90 are getting so good for $8K, then perhaps the bleeding edge becomes moot. It will be interesting to see if the same logic holds for things like $$$ audio processors and amplifiers.

Hope business remains good. Would love to catch up.

Simon

I agree with you. :) Actually, I may just get another 200 and call it a day! :eek: Seriously...

I agree with you. :) Actually, I may just get another 200 and call it a day! :eek: Seriously...

Now were talking!:) I have had my 200 for a few months now and its realy up to the input Im feeding it, be it Blue Ray, DVD etc. (film based, video based etc.) what options I use for that input regarding motionflow, gamma, film mode etc.. I used to prefix these formats be it DVD or Blue Ray or HDDVD etc. on the USER 1, USER 2 etc. but seeing that the quality of the material on these formats Blue Ray etc. (especially DVD) is so variable I usually now go to the menu of the 200 to fix the problems I see and the 200 allways has some answers to these problems. This only takes a few minutes when you get used to the 200s menu as you know joe.;) I see no other projector having all the options the 200 has, at least in its price class. Sure all these options are not for the "technophobes" out there, but this forum is obviously not for them anyway.:cool: So I well understand Joe missing the 200. The price of the 200 has also gone down. I got mine for 6990$ on ebay. Maybe I was lucky but I bet you you will see a lot of deals like this now, because of the ressession.:o
By the way Joe. Youve had a lot of Blue Ray players fed to your 200. If you get another one what kind of Blue Ray arsenal can we expect you to feed it. I hear that the OPPO will be available soon and then theres the MOMITSU thats suposed to be the first region free out of the box unit. Would be nice tho hear from a weteran like you whats up the pipes at your end.:D

Actually Thunder I have already fed my previous 200 the 09FD (which is still my main player), the new Oppo (Beta testing), and a boatload of other players. I will spend some more time doing the Panny BD60 and one of the newer Pioneer Blu ray units hitting soon. :) It's not that I don't like the other PJs I have played with lately, it's like you said. I just got really used to the 200 and what it does for me. I plan to do another "review" when I get it (VW200) up and going. I will compare it to what I just had previously up in the last month or so. :)

Actually Thunder I have already fed my previous 200 the 09FD (which is still my main player), the new Oppo (Beta testing), and a boatload of other players. I will spend some more time doing the Panny BD60 and one of the newer Pioneer Blu ray units hitting soon. :) It's not that I don't like the other PJs I have played with lately, it's like you said. I just got really used to the 200 and what it does for me. I plan to do another "review" when I get it (VW200) up and going. I will compare it to what I just had previously up in the last month or so. :)

If I understand you correctly, youve tried the new OPPO 83 with the 200!:eek: Did not see anything about that erlier on this tread, care to enlighten us mere mortals on how it compared to your other Blue Ray players, with the 200 in mind:rolleyes:
Oh and I remember you having a Playstation once hooked up to the 200. When did you "discard" that from the 200, for what player and for what reasons. Im asking you this as you seemd to like it a lot way back on this thread. This just so we know about the missing links in the evolution of this thread:D

If you follow the link in my sig I have all of my reviews there. :) As for the PS3 I still have it and it is my utility Blu ray player. I can send it to the bar or the playroom and just bring the remote in those areas. I have been using the Pioneer 09FD as my main for a little while now. I liked the Oppo and it did an exceptional job but I like the two HDMI outs on the 09FD. You can read my takes if you follow those links...

I agree with you. :) Actually, I may just get another 200 and call it a day! :eek: Seriously...

After all... football season is just around the corner (thinking about after the draft this weekend)... and football without motionflow????? :eek: I'm making plans to make sure my 200 has a fresh lamp come August. :D

Kevin

If you follow the link in my sig I have all of my reviews there. :) As for the PS3 I still have it and it is my utility Blu ray player. I can send it to the bar or the playroom and just bring the remote in those areas. I have been using the Pioneer 09FD as my main for a little while now. I liked the Oppo and it did an exceptional job but I like the two HDMI outs on the 09FD. You can read my takes if you follow those links...

Thanx for the link info.:) By the way how does the OPPO compare to the Sony 350 on the VW200, as I was thinking of getting the OPPO when they finally release it to us mere mortals?:mad:
And talking about the 350, do you think a same brand hookup to the 200, that is a Sony to a Sony makes any dif. "HDMI speak" vise etc.. I for example find my Sony Blue Ray player very reliable when it comes to the 200 and find the "flow" for a lack of a better technical word to be very "natural" for a lack of another technical word.:D but then again I have not tried as many blue ray players as you obviously have. It would be interesting to hear your take on that.:cool:

By the way how does the OPPO compare to the Sony 350 on the VW200, as I was thinking of getting the OPPO when they finally release it to us mere mortals?:mad:

I also have had a EAP Oppo BDP-83 for some weeks now. I cannot speak to its utility as a fully-featured player, but as a 'digital transport' it is first rate with both bluray and DVD. The big flaw with both the Sony 350 and 550 is they do not do 'source direct', so if you have an outboard scaler, look elsehwhere! Given I use a Meridian front end, I also need a player that decodes bitstream to PCM for all formats.

Thanx for the link info.:) By the way how does the OPPO compare to the Sony 350 on the VW200, as I was thinking of getting the OPPO when they finally release it to us mere mortals?:mad:
And talking about the 350, do you think a same brand hookup to the 200, that is a Sony to a Sony makes any dif. "HDMI speak" vise etc.. I for example find my Sony Blue Ray player very reliable when it comes to the 200 and find the "flow" for a lack of a better technical word to be very "natural" for a lack of another technical word.:D but then again I have not tried as many blue ray players as you obviously have. It would be interesting to hear your take on that.:cool:
Just came to me, the technical word is of course "natural motionflow" from a Sony to a Sony:D:cool::eek::confused:

I also have had a EAP Oppo BDP-83 for some weeks now. I cannot speak to its utility as a fully-featured player, but as a 'digital transport' it is first rate with both bluray and DVD. The big flaw with both the Sony 350 and 550 is they do not do 'source direct', so if you have an outboard scaler, look elsehwhere! Given I use a Meridian front end, I also need a player that decodes bitstream to PCM for all formats.

I just put a HD621 into my setup as I have a 568. Are you using a HD621 also? Now that would be a coincidence:eek:

I just put a HD621 into my setup as I have a 568. Are you using a HD621 also? Now that would be a coincidence:eek:

I am waffling big time about whether to get the HD621. I own the Meridian 861v4 and am finding their silence on whether a MMHR card will be made available somewhat frustrating - so, for now, I'm getting my Oppo BDP-83 modded for a 4xSPDIF output which will avoid the need for the HD621.

I am waffling big time about whether to get the HD621. I own the Meridian 861v4 and am finding their silence on whether a MMHR card will be made available somewhat frustrating - so, for now, I'm getting my Oppo BDP-83 modded for a 4xSPDIF output which will avoid the need for the HD621.

Interesting. I can tell you that the HD621 works fine with my 568.25 and has brought a whole new dimension to it. A unit that was nearly outdated has now become as good as the leading edge audio units with top notch Dolby True HD and DTS HD. The HD621 is naturally also a top notch HDMI switch box to the Sony VW200. I highly recommend it, especially to all Meridian owners. Problem is that it is so "damned" expensive in the States. It costs only about half as much here in Europe so I quite understand you waiting to see what happens.
Regarding your comment that the Sony 350 and 550 do not have source direct? I find this very strange as my multi regional S300 shows source direct in the video format display when I use it direct to the VW200? Are you telling me that the 300 has Source direct but not the 350 and 550. I find that very strange, please explain.

Problem is that it is so "damned" expensive in the States. It costs only about half as much here in Europe so I quite understand you waiting to see what happens.
Regarding your comment that the Sony 350 and 550 do not have source direct? I find this very strange as my multi regional S300 shows source direct in the video format display when I use it direct to the VW200? Are you telling me that the 300 has Source direct but not the 350 and 550. I find that very strange, please explain.

Yes, $3K here in the USA for the HD621 as opposed to just a few hundred to mod my Oppo for 4xSPDIF. I'll live with that for a while and see how it works out until Meridian make it a bit clearer or how/if they plan to get discreet 7.1 signals into their processors.

On Bluray, apparently Sony decided to drop the 'source direct' feature on all their new players (including the hiend model). Not sure I understand why, other than perhaps most owners don't bother with outboard video processors. The Oppo was the first player I found that offered both 'source direct' for video and the ability to decode to PCM all of the lossless audio codecs (which the HD621 needs).

Yes, $3K here in the USA for the HD621 as opposed to just a few hundred to mod my Oppo for 4xSPDIF. I'll live with that for a while and see how it works out until Meridian make it a bit clearer or how/if they plan to get discreet 7.1 signals into their processors.

On Bluray, apparently Sony decided to drop the 'source direct' feature on all their new players (including the hiend model). Not sure I understand why, other than perhaps most owners don't bother with outboard video processors. The Oppo was the first player I found that offered both 'source direct' for video and the ability to decode to PCM all of the lossless audio codecs (which the HD621 needs).

Do you know how the new Momitsu Blue Ray player compares to the Oppo with these points in mind?

Do you know how the new Momitsu Blue Ray player compares to the Oppo with these points in mind?

Just to answer my own question here about the Momitsu as I love talking to myself now and then:D From what I have learned from the Momitsu thread here on AV Science forum. The Momitsu seems to have the PCM/HDMI option but not the Direct Source. So Oppo has the Direct Source but the Momitsu is codefree out of the box.:cool: Looks like Ill wait for the Oppo to be released to the general public so I can use it with my VW200.;) and wait and wait and wait....:mad:

The title says it all. :) Thanks to CaptainZ for helping me "obtain" another VW200! I feel like I have my best friend back. :D I have spent the last 5 or 6 weeks playing with a FPJ1/RS2 and a RS20. I will say the the overall conrast and black levels may favor the JVCs but as far as panning goes nothing beats the Sony! Of course I will be the first to admit I am more sensitive and since the last couple years I have only had Sony models that did not help. I will say the RS20 does put out one heck of a picture though and the gamma adjustments really help make it next level good. For me though I would rather take the 200's color, sharpness and better panning. Plus the 200 does have very good black level and excellent contrast to. Combine all of that with the DFI on the lowest level and you have one of the best PJs available today. I have learned the grass is greener on this side. :D I have also learned that superior optics and a better path do mean something. And not to mention just because something is newer doesn't mean it is better. And finally just because a few magazine "reviewers" say it is the next coming doesn't mean it is. I guess they need to pay for all those ad pages somehow!

Here is the more interesting details. I had one of the first VW200s in November of 07. This VW200 I have (as of early this morning) was from August of last year. It actually went into Laredo, TX and received a new power supply and a firmware update. What does that mean? I will say it seems to power on differently (a little less harsh) and seems a little quieter. Also trying to recall or even looking at my pics of my original 200 I did not see the BRAVIA writing above the lighted Sony logo on the bottom. So does this mean anything? Maybe... I usually prefer Manual set to 92 for nearly everything. Well so far I am liking Adv. Iris 1 set to fast for movies. I have been at it the better part of the day and evening and I like the extra boost in contrast. Of course maybe since I got used to seeing more from the native RS20 higher contrast levels it is making me go the Adv. Iris route. Either way I am seeing excellent results. I am also using the Film Proj at level 3 (the lowes setting) and NOT seeing any hints of flicker. The lamp is at nearly 300 hours. With my original I would see flicker at around 100 with the DFI on the low setting. That is making a huge improvement in panning slow and fast as well as fast action scenes. And yes this goes for 1080p/24 as well!

The service menu settings look to be about the same (from what I remember) so nothing alarming there. I also am happy to report that 1080p/24 4:4:4 upconverted color 12 bit or 16 bit from the 09FD works as it did before. Of course I wasn't expecting it not to work. :)

So finally I will tell all fellow VW200 owners out there that there is nothing else better in the LCD world. At least nothing around and below this price range. Other brands may come close but the overall package is right here. The Xenon Lamp though expensivehas no substitute. Colors are more rich and natural. Add that feature with the VW200's 10 bit panels and the other brands8 bit panels the differences really start to surface. Of course the VW200's 12 bit full digital drive chassis helps... Anyway, it is going to be hard to convince me to try a VW90 this Fall. I think I am thru chasing rainbows. If it weren't for CaptainZ I would still be chasing them! :eek: My best bet is probably to wait until Sony releases a VW300 no matter how long that might be... I will begin working on calibrating and will post tome settings soon... It feels good to be back. :)

Some T3 pics....

It's that time of year again... :eek:

From tonight's Bulls versus Celtics game...

On the Bulls versus Celtics pics I had the pic mode in Dynamic with color space Wide and with Film Proj. mode 3 and MotionFlow on High. Oh and Black level on High as well with Gamma 3 engaged. I wanted to report it since I had a few questions about which settings I was using for the game... :)

On the Bulls versus Celtics pics I had the pic mode in Dynamic with color space Wide and with Film Proj. mode 3 and MotionFlow on High. Oh and Black level on High as well with Gamma 3 engaged. I wanted to report it since I had a few questions about which settings I was using for the game... :)

I'll bet you had the volume on 11 also, huh?;)

I did after Brad Miller missed his free throw! :eek: :D

Of course that should have been a flagrant foul!!! :mad:

The title says it all. :) Thanks to CaptainZ for helping me "obtain" another VW200! I feel like I have my best friend back. :D I have spent the last 5 or 6 weeks playing with a FPJ1/RS2 and a RS20. I will say the the overall conrast and black levels may favor the JVCs but as far as panning goes nothing beats the Sony! Of course I will be the first to admit I am more sensitive and since the last couple years I have only had Sony models that did not help. I will say the RS20 does put out one heck of a picture though and the gamma adjustments really help make it next level good. For me though I would rather take the 200's color, sharpness and better panning. Plus the 200 does have very good black level and excellent contrast to. Combine all of that with the DFI on the lowest level and you have one of the best PJs available today. I have learned the grass is greener on this side. :D I have also learned that superior optics and a better path do mean something. And not to mention just because something is newer doesn't mean it is better. And finally just because a few magazine "reviewers" say it is the next coming doesn't mean it is. I guess they need to pay for all those ad pages somehow!

Here is the more interesting details. I had one of the first VW200s in November of 07. This VW200 I have (as of early this morning) was from August of last year. It actually went into Laredo, TX and received a new power supply and a firmware update. What does that mean? I will say it seems to power on differently (a little less harsh) and seems a little quieter. Also trying to recall or even looking at my pics of my original 200 I did not see the BRAVIA writing above the lighted Sony logo on the bottom. So does this mean anything? Maybe... I usually prefer Manual set to 92 for nearly everything. Well so far I am liking Adv. Iris 1 set to fast for movies. I have been at it the better part of the day and evening and I like the extra boost in contrast. Of course maybe since I got used to seeing more from the native RS20 higher contrast levels it is making me go the Adv. Iris route. Either way I am seeing excellent results. I am also using the Film Proj at level 3 (the lowes setting) and NOT seeing any hints of flicker. The lamp is at nearly 300 hours. With my original I would see flicker at around 100 with the DFI on the low setting. That is making a huge improvement in panning slow and fast as well as fast action scenes. And yes this goes for 1080p/24 as well!

The service menu settings look to be about the same (from what I remember) so nothing alarming there. I also am happy to report that 1080p/24 4:4:4 upconverted color 12 bit or 16 bit from the 09FD works as it did before. Of course I wasn't expecting it not to work. :)

So finally I will tell all fellow VW200 owners out there that there is nothing else better in the LCD world. At least nothing around and below this price range. Other brands may come close but the overall package is right here. The Xenon Lamp though expensivehas no substitute. Colors are more rich and natural. Add that feature with the VW200's 10 bit panels and the other brands8 bit panels the differences really start to surface. Of course the VW200's 12 bit full digital drive chassis helps... Anyway, it is going to be hard to convince me to try a VW90 this Fall. I think I am thru chasing rainbows. If it weren't for CaptainZ I would still be chasing them! :eek: My best bet is probably to wait until Sony releases a VW300 no matter how long that might be... I will begin working on calibrating and will post tome settings soon... It feels good to be back. :)

Some T3 pics....

Are you sure you don't want to try the VW80? VW80 is supposed to have all of above you mentioned (minus xenon) but better contrast and blacks! :D

Glad you found the right projector for you. Most people would not admit that they made a mistake by switching. Now just sit back, relax and enjoy because you really are not missing out on anything. You have one of the best projector most people can only dream about owning.

I know the VW80 is pretty impressive to. I was just more apprehensive since I sell more than I keep. :D How hard would it be to move the VW80 over here? Plus I know there first question will be about warranty. Anyway, I am happy I have my friend the 200 back. :) For a long time...

On the Bulls versus Celtics pics I had the pic mode in Dynamic with color space Wide and with Film Proj. mode 3 and MotionFlow on High. Oh and Black level on High as well with Gamma 3 engaged. I wanted to report it since I had a few questions about which settings I was using for the game... :)

Joe - that's a great setting for sports. What is your current projector setting for Blu-ray movies at 1080/24p?

Joe - that's a great setting for sports. What is your current projector setting for Blu-ray movies at 1080/24p?

Thanks. :) I am working on the Blu ray 1080p/24 settings tonite. Yesterday was my first day back and since the games were on it was perfect. I will post them shortly then I will post my basic DirecTV (Standard) settings... :)

The title says it all. :) Thanks to CaptainZ for helping me "obtain" another VW200!

Welcome back! I myself suspect that the 200 may well reside for longer in my system than any previous projector.

Welcome back! I myself suspect that the 200 may well reside for longer in my system than any previous projector.

Thanks. :) It's going to take dynamite to get this 200 down. :D We watched some Supernatual episodes lastnite so I will get my updated Blu ray 1080p/24 settings posted this afternoon.

Thanks. :) It's going to take dynamite to get this 200 down. :D We watched some Supernatual episodes lastnite so I will get my updated Blu ray 1080p/24 settings posted this afternoon.

Since you have also experimented with bluray player far more than I, where have you landed at this point with the VW200? I've had an EAP Oppo BDP-83 for some weeks now and find it most impressive, but have you had a chance to compare yours to some of the better models out there (I'm thinking the top-of-the-line Sony and Denon models specifically).

Thx!

Simon

The absolute best Blu ray player I have used with the VW200 is the Pioneer 09FD. It is very flexible with having two HDMI outs and it does a great job of color upconversion. Matching that with the VW200's 10 bit panels (instead of 8 bit) really can make a difference. The 09FD is excellent with analog audio as well. I have also an Oppo which does a great job to. The 09FD wins my starting spot in my theater though. The Oppo loads faster and also has upconverted color but overall the 09FD adds just a little more depth to the image. And the 09FD with its advanced Marvell processing chip does a terrific job with SD dvds. I think most would be happy using either or. :)

I am close to having my Blu ray settings dialed down. I am going back and forth on a couple of minor details. I just realized the game is starting so I will finish and post my results later... :)

The title says it all. :) Thanks to CaptainZ for helping me "obtain" another VW200! I feel like I have my best friend back. ............................................................ ..............................................
Also trying to recall or even looking at my pics of my original 200 I did not see the BRAVIA writing above the lighted Sony logo on the bottom.

Some T3 pics....

Welcome back joe...to the best of the best, projectors that is.:cool: Regarding the Bravia marking. Its on mine two but that is just a couple of months old anyway. Maybe ca1ore can tell us if his VW200 has the marking as I recall he got his just after your first VW200. Any other difs you noticed after your "remariage" with the new VW200?:D

Welcome back joe...to the best of the best, projectors that is.:cool: Regarding the Bravia marking. Its on mine two but that is just a couple of months old anyway. Maybe ca1ore can tell us if his VW200 has the marking as I recall he got his just after your first VW200. Any other difs you noticed after your "remariage" with the new VW200?:D

Yes, my 200 does have 'Bravia' silk-screened onto the chassis above the lighted Sony insignia. My PJ was bought in the very early days of availability.

Yes, my 200 does have 'Bravia' silk-screened onto the chassis above the lighted Sony insignia. My PJ was bought in the very early days of availability.

I believe I was one of the first 4 people over here to get one. I looked at all of my old pics of it and I can't see it on any of them. :eek: Maybe they just forgot to do it on the first few?

Hi Joe,
Got mine last June, and it does have the Bravia silk-screened on the top of the case.

So far my latest Blu ray 1080p/24 settings are.... Cinema, Color Temp Middle, Black Level Low, Film Projection Mode 3, Color Normal (I only use Wide for sports), MotionFlow Off, and here are a few shockers for myself... I have been using Adv. Iris 1 for the extra "punch" in contrast and I also like bumping up Sharpness some. As for Gamma, here is where I am still struggling. I have always before left it Off. Now I am between Gamma 1 and Gamma 3 (my sports sweetspot)... I think I got used to being able to select Gamma 2.4 for movies with the JVC models so I am used to the slightly darker image. I know Gamma Off is slight darker than Gamma 1 but depending on what I am viewing... I haven't ruled Gamma Off out entirely yet. I plan to work on it today and then also work on a User 1 Setting. I have just found even using Gamma 3 with Adv. Iris 1 gives the picture more "punch" then I remember before. I will have plenty of time to figure it out this weekend. When I put in most of my older settings the picture seems a little bland but still not bad at all. Maybe it was good I fell off the Sony path for a little while. :)

And these settings I have been working on are using the Pioneer 09FD going straight into the VW200's HDMI 2 input. The 09FD's Main HDMI out goes into my 886 PRO for sound.

You didn`t fall. You stumbled.

You didn`t fall. You stumbled.

Good point. I agree. :)

The Celtics stumbled against the Bulls on Thursday. DAMN. Lots of sports on today. Golf (Tiger), the Kentucky Derby by Yum brands, the Celtic Bulls game 7, Stanly Cup Caps against Penquins, forget about anymore like baseball and NASCAR. Talk about having a patient wife today.

I actually think both teams stumbled since it went 3 OTs. :D There is a ton of Sports today and it seems a nice day to cookout as well. :)

Overcast and rainy here today. Plus I have to be in my store from 11am to 7pm. Thank god for DVRs. Tonight its dinner out with my wife. So all these sports will be between about 10 PM and 4 AM. Tomorrow the weather should be better for outdoor activities. Plus, not much that I am interested in watching re sports. Will I be screwing with the projector while watching sports? Not a chance. Just for basketball and hockey I will bump the eco lamp mode to high (on the planar) and crank in one unit of adaptive contrast in my Lumagen Radiance. Notice how much about the new Sony supposedly coming this fall has been deleted from the 70\80 and 200 threads? 4 months to Cedia.

Notice how much about the new Sony supposedly coming this fall has been deleted from the 70\80 and 200 threads? 4 months to Cedia.

Mark please PM me some links so I can look into this. I am not aware of any qty of posts removed providing news on upcoming Sony products. This is something we all get excited about.

Thanks Mark.

My bad. This thread is very long and looking again I found the posts.

I wondered about that to. Not that I am interested in switching PJs anytime soon! :D

Wanna make a small bet you will be getting a 90 and that the Celtics will win tonight?

Not sure on the 90 but how many points would you give me if I took Chicago... :D

So far my latest Blu ray 1080p/24 settings are.... Cinema, Color Temp Middle, Black Level Low, Film Projection Mode 3, Color Normal (I only use Wide for sports), MotionFlow Off, and here are a few shockers for myself... I have been using Adv. Iris 1 for the extra "punch" in contrast and I also like bumping up Sharpness some. As for Gamma, here is where I am still struggling. I have always before left it Off. Now I am between Gamma 1 and Gamma 3 (my sports sweetspot)... I think I got used to being able to select Gamma 2.4 for movies with the JVC models so I am used to the slightly darker image. I know Gamma Off is slight darker than Gamma 1 but depending on what I am viewing... I haven't ruled Gamma Off out entirely yet. I plan to work on it today and then also work on a User 1 Setting. I have just found even using Gamma 3 with Adv. Iris 1 gives the picture more "punch" then I remember before. I will have plenty of time to figure it out this weekend. When I put in most of my older settings the picture seems a little bland but still not bad at all. Maybe it was good I fell off the Sony path for a little while. :)

And these settings I have been working on are using the Pioneer 09FD going straight into the VW200's HDMI 2 input. The 09FD's Main HDMI out goes into my 886 PRO for sound.

Though I think the VW200 "best" settings depend on the origins and quality of the 1080p/24 software source being fed to this projector, I do see that Joe has hit on a few settings that do correspond to my often "favorite" VW200 settings. Here are first mine and then Joes settings. VW200 owners might find it interesting to put them for example in user1 and user2 and switch between them on a 108024/p source like the film DOUBT 2008, like I did. This film is full of Black level/Iris tests as the priest and nuns in their black clothes both in and outdoors engage shadows and window light that really test the VW200 Black level/Iris capabilities. This is also interesting as a VW200 Auto Iris vs. Manual test. These are both very interesting overall fun settings to try out. Here they are first mine/then Joes;
Cinema Black Pro: Manual:92/Auto Iris 1-(Manual:92 was originally listed in Thomas J. Nortons Ultimate AV Mag review)
Film Projection: Mode 3/Mode 3-(I sometimes have this of, especially for newer films)
Motion Enhancer:Low/Off-(Really a Sony special here)
Color Temp.: Custom 1: 1,1,-10. 6,-2,-2/ Middle.
Black Level Adj.: Low/Low.
Gamma Corr.: Gamma3/Gamma1 or 3-(Found the black clothes in doubt to be most natural in Gamma 3 in Joes setting to. They where to greyish in Gamma 2)
Color Space: Normal/Normal-(Wide can be useful with sports, animation and Live music performances often along with Motion Enhancer in High).
I usually have Brightness at 48 and Sharpness at 40. But joe did not nail down these settings. Contrast (90), Color (50) and Hue (50) are as originally native to the VW200.
Well fellow VW200 owners hope you try these settings out and have some fun in the process. Would be interesting to hear what you think.

Though I think the VW200 "best" settings depend on the origins and quality of the 1080p/24 software source being fed to this projector, I do see that Joe has hit on a few settings that do correspond to my often "favorite" VW200 settings. Here are first mine and then Joes settings. VW200 owners might find it interesting to put them for example in user1 and user2 and switch between them on a 108024/p source like the film DOUBT 2008, like I did. This film is full of Black level/Iris tests as the priest and nuns in their black clothes both in and outdoors engage shadows and window light that really test the VW200 Black level/Iris capabilities. This is also interesting as a VW200 Auto Iris vs. Manual test. These are both very interesting overall fun settings to try out. Here they are first mine/then Joes;
Cinema Black Pro: Manual:92/Auto Iris 1-(Manual:92 was originally listed in Thomas J. Nortons Ultimate AV Mag review)
Film Projection: Mode 3/Mode 3-(I sometimes have this of, especially for newer films)
Motion Enhancer:Low/Off-(Really a Sony special here)
Color Temp.: Custom 1: 1,1,-10. 6,-2,-2/ Middle.
Black Level Adj.: Low/Low.
Gamma Corr.: Gamma3/Gamma1 or 3-(Found the black clothes in doubt to be most natural in Gamma 3 in Joes setting to. They where to greyish in Gamma 2)
Color Space: Normal/Normal-(Wide can be useful with sports, animation and Live music performances often along with Motion Enhancer in High).
I usually have Brightness at 48 and Sharpness at 40. But joe did not nail down these settings. Contrast (90), Color (50) and Hue (50) are as originally native to the VW200.
Well fellow VW200 owners hope you try these settings out and have some fun in the process. Would be interesting to hear what you think.

Good summary. :)

As I mentioned and others know here I used to swear by Manual at 92. Last night we were watching The Uninvited and I had "special" permission to switch a few settings every 20 minutes. The group vote was Adv. Iris 1. The reason: It was an outdoor scene at night and when I slipped it to Manual-92 it brightened it up to much. The room said it is supposed to be a night scene and the 1 setting (Adv. Iris 1) does it perfect. I still plan to experiment more between Adv. 1 & 2 though. And I had Adv. Iris 1 on Fast to. As for Bright, Sharp, Contrast and Hue I am at those same settings. I haven't had to really "tweak" them. I will also say I am 100% leaning towards Gamma 3 for movies now. It has to be because I got used to using Gamma 2.4 with the JVC models. I have found with doing that with Adv. Iris 1, I am gettig good to great shadow detail with very good contrast. I think it is important to point out that Thomas J Norton in his review was using a different screen type plus it was smaller. And even more importantly it was originally written in Dec of 07 when the 200 was an infant. I used to swear by those settings but now I am seeing it differently. There is much more to be gained by doing the Adv. Iris 1. Deeper blacks and obviously better contrast. If you watch a lot of movies that have lots of night scenes then I think this is the sweet spot. Vacancy is another good example and a great one to do A/B comparisons. Finally I will say I have not done a color temp User mode yet. So far I have been pretty impressed with how accurate the Middle settings are. I will eventually do a User setting and post it here. Like I posted before, I think it has been a good learning experience and I don't regret "stumbling" off the VW200 path. If anything it has helped me become even more efficient with it... :)

Joe. It would be my pleasure to give you 9 1\2. (Mods relax were are not wagering, just a funny since the Celtics won the game last night by 10).

Now hockey. Both the Caps and the Blackhawks won yesterday and we could possibly see a Bruins or Caps vs Blackhawks hockey final. That will indeed be a friendly offline bet. Maybe a couple of Gold Coast dogs dragged through the garden or some dogs and duck fat french fries from Hot Doug`s.

Joe. It would be my pleasure to give you 9 1\2. (Mods relax were are not wagering, just a funny since the Celtics won the game last night by 10).

Now hockey. Both the Caps and the Blackhawks won yesterday and we could possibly see a Bruins or Caps vs Blackhawks hockey final. That will indeed be a friendly offline bet. Maybe a couple of Gold Coast dogs dragged through the garden or some dogs and duck fat french fries from Hot Doug`s.

Hockey is not my strong spot but offline it would be fun. :)

I am settling in here shortly to watch The Da Vinci Code... Since I am going it alone I will work more on settings... :)

One example about the Auto Iris 1 on the Sony VW200, when watching the film Doubt. The first scene with Meryl Streep and the young nun Amy Adams in the classroom. The scene is cut from a windowless shot of the young nun (medium shot and indoor daytime lighting) by the blackboard to a wide classroom shoot of Streep by a window (full daylight streaming in behind her, much backlight). When the much brighter window shot cut the darker blackboard shoot a interesting thing happened. Well I ran this scene a few times with the following results;
Auto Irish 1-Recommended: When the much brighter window scene appeard. The Iris jumped to and you could see it at work like someone pushing the brightness level up. Quite distracting from the film flow.
Auto Irish 1-Fast: Same result, a little faster jump but still distracting.
Auto Irish 1-Slow: Much more gradual brightness pump and one that did not distract much.
Manual 92: Not distracting at all and no pumping what so ever, just a brighter scene taking over from a darker one, very natural.
So for you out there wondering what the Fast, Slow etc. in Auto Iris was for. Well here you have a example of it in action. I guess this all plays together with the other setting you use on the Sony VW200 so keep in mind that these are a result of the settings I posted yesterday.

Good summary. :)

As I mentioned and others know here I used to swear by Manual at 92. Last night we were watching The Uninvited and I had "special" permission to switch a few settings every 20 minutes. The group vote was Adv. Iris 1. The reason: It was an outdoor scene at night and when I slipped it to Manual-92 it brightened it up to much. The room said it is supposed to be a night scene and the 1 setting (Adv. Iris 1) does it perfect. I still plan to experiment more between Adv. 1 & 2 though.

I did try your 92 setting as you once suggested along with a range of other manual settings and all they did was cut down the maximum brightness in bright scenes and raise black levels in dark scenes and compared to the DI they all appeared flat and lifeless. Sony's DI is the best in the business and unlike most they don't gear it beyond about 5:1 which combined with a native on/off of 12-15k in the VW80/VW200 gives a pretty dynamic and stunning image. Adv. Iris 2 will give slightly less compression with almost as good blacks, but there's not a lot in it. Film Projection Mode 3 is a bit of a surprise though, use it myself but some guests have commented on the flicker.

I did try your 92 setting as you once suggested along with a range of other manual settings and all they did was cut down the maximum brightness in bright scenes and raise black levels in dark scenes and compared to the DI they all appeared flat and lifeless. Sony's DI is the best in the business and unlike most they don't gear it beyond about 5:1 which combined with a native on/off of 12-15k in the VW80/VW200 gives a pretty dynamic and stunning image. Adv. Iris 2 will give slightly less compression with almost as good blacks, but there's not a lot in it. Film Projection Mode 3 is a bit of a surprise though, use it myself but some guests have commented on the flicker.

Do not forget that most of the settings of the VW200 interact so there is no "one truth" here. Keeping this in mind and that video/film sources also differ vastly regarding all these settings, we can test on and on and on.:eek: It must be said that the VW200 is really "a world of its own". So lets just enjoy.:)

PS: I just came from the local Cinema where I saw the new Wolferine movie, flicker and all. Cant wait till its on Blue Ray so I can see it properly on the VW200.:D

One example about the Auto Iris 1 on the Sony VW200, when watching the film Doubt. The first scene with Meryl Streep and the young nun Amy Adams in the classroom. The scene is cut from a windowless shot of the young nun (medium shot and indoor daytime lighting) by the blackboard to a wide classroom shoot of Streep by a window (full daylight streaming in behind her, much backlight). When the much brighter window shot cut the darker blackboard shoot a interesting thing happened. Well I ran this scene a few times with the following results;
Auto Irish 1-Recommended: When the much brighter window scene appeard. The Iris jumped to and you could see it at work like someone pushing the brightness level up. Quite distracting from the film flow.
Auto Irish 1-Fast: Same result, a little faster jump but still distracting.
Auto Irish 1-Slow: Much more gradual brightness pump and one that did not distract much.
Manual 92: Not distracting at all and no pumping what so ever, just a brighter scene taking over from a darker one, very natural.
So for you out there wondering what the Fast, Slow etc. in Auto Iris was for. Well here you have a example of it in action. I guess this all plays together with the other setting you use on the Sony VW200 so keep in mind that these are a result of the settings I posted yesterday.

Great points. I did some extensive testing tonite and it only took me abut 4 hours to watch all of The Da Vinci Code. :D I have to agree. Maybe Adv. Iris with Slow is the best of all worlds... I ended up leaving it there to. Great minds... ;) I am still sticking with Adv. Iris 1 over Manual... :)

I did try your 92 setting as you once suggested along with a range of other manual settings and all they did was cut down the maximum brightness in bright scenes and raise black levels in dark scenes and compared to the DI they all appeared flat and lifeless. Sony's DI is the best in the business and unlike most they don't gear it beyond about 5:1 which combined with a native on/off of 12-15k in the VW80/VW200 gives a pretty dynamic and stunning image. Adv. Iris 2 will give slightly less compression with almost as good blacks, but there's not a lot in it. Film Projection Mode 3 is a bit of a surprise though, use it myself but some guests have commented on the flicker.

That was never my own setting. We got that from a reviewer back in Dec. of 07. I agree with your statement about Film Proj. mode 3... For some reason I can't really see it with 1080p24 like I did with my first 200. :eek:

That was never my own setting. We got that from a reviewer back in Dec. of 07.

Plus, using someone else's arbitrary manual setting (given differences in room size, screen type/size and ambient light levels) is unlikely to also work optimally for you, or me, etc.

I've not spent nearly the amount of time with my 200 that you guys have, but for what it's worth, I settled on 'Auto Iris 1 - slow' a while back as my preferred setting.

I don't like projection mode at all - not clear to me why one would want to simulate a fundamental shortcoming of film cinemas at home?

Plus, using someone else's arbitrary manual setting (given differences in room size, screen type/size and ambient light levels) is unlikely to also work optimally for you, or me, etc.

I've not spent nearly the amount of time with my 200 that you guys have, but for what it's worth, I settled on 'Auto Iris 1 - slow' a while back as my preferred setting.

I don't like projection mode at all - not clear to me why one would want to simulate a fundamental shortcoming of film cinemas at home?

Ive tried manual Iris from 85 to 95 (not comfortable with higher or lower), but usually settle around 92. Maybe me and Mr. Norton (original author of the 92 G spot) are unknowing twins (regarding setup that is):D Anyway when I use Auto Iris 1 and I sometimes do, its with "slow" as I mentioned in my Auto Iris 1 test a few Days/post ago.:cool: Would be interesting to hear from someone who hss tried out Auto Iris 2 and how that differs from Auto Iris 1.:rolleyes:

Doing Auto Iris 1 with Slow enabled I have noticed I can get an even better picture by dialing down the contrast adjustment some. I looked back at my notes from my old Ruby days (72) and started there. I ended up settling around 78. The image has more "punch" to it. I have also spent time with Auto Iris 2 and it seems to darken the image more. It is not bad but I like 1 more. Oh and the Manual at 92 does give whites their best peak level without blowing them out which is why it seems to be the magic number to stop at. The movie The Strangers is another "night" movie which was good to experiement with. It has been on DirecTV a lot lately. I also use the movie Vacancy to. These "night" movies are awesome for checking shadow detail and black levels. Not to mention the Adv. Iris modes versus Manual... :)

My VW200 started to make some slight noise yesterday. The timer is just at 210 hours. I think its coming from the lamp. Sounds like slight electrical buzz (or like someone rolling a candy whraper in his hand). Its distracting in very quiet scenes but is not noticable at "normal" sound levels when watching a film. The VW200 did not do this before now. Hope it does not get any worse! I recall having read something like this, earlier in this thread but cant seem to find it. Has anyone any info. on this?:confused:

How many hours in a row were you using it? I ask because my first VW200 never really changed in sound the entire time I had it. I have noticed with this VW200 which was manufactured much later that it does get a little louder after a couple hours of "on" time. And this one went Laredo in August and had a new power supply installed. Here is what I have dicovered. If I turn on the High Cooler Setting it settles down and is perfectly fine. If I leave that setting on for about 5 minutes or so and then turn it back to the Regular Setting it is as quiet as when I first turned it on. Even with the High Cooler Setting activated it is not that loud. My new gameplan is if I am watching 2 movies the first I go regular then for the second High Cool. I can switch it between movies while I am loading the next movie.

Humm will have to check this "cooling setting" out, will get back to you on that. I remember someone else on this thread having similar problems way at the beginning of this thread, dont remember how that turned out but Ill try the "cooler" thing first. THX!;)

Keep us posted. :)

It worked.:D The cool high setting killed the noise but now the VW200 sound level is more like my old VW-10HT. Well that never bothered me anyway!;) Ill have to see if the sound level will change any over time but if I turn the VW200 to a low setting again the "sound" comes back.:confused: So Im stuck on High setting as is.:rolleyes: Thanks again Joe:)

Try going back to regular after around 5 minutes. I have and it is gone for awhile but it will eventually return. We were watching Saturday Night Fever and I forgot I put it in the High Cooler setting and couldn't even tell anyway... :)

My VW200 started to make some slight noise yesterday. The timer is just at 210 hours. I think its coming from the lamp. Sounds like slight electrical buzz (or like someone rolling a candy whraper in his hand). Its distracting in very quiet scenes but is not noticable at "normal" sound levels when watching a film. The VW200 did not do this before now. Hope it does not get any worse! I recall having read something like this, earlier in this thread but cant seem to find it. Has anyone any info. on this?:confused:


This sounds like hum caused by power issues in your home. Read here (http://www.psaudio.com/ps/wiki/Hum/).

This sounds like hum caused by power issues in your home. Read here (http://www.psaudio.com/ps/wiki/Hum/).

Seems to me Joe and I have a similar problem. Do not think its electrical "in the House" as I have special refrence power cables/cords, blocks, silencers, purifiers etc. (from Kimber etc.) and I have not had any problems with any of my other electrical "stuff" and where talking lots of "stuff" for many years. Not had a problem like this untill now with any of my older projectors. The only thing I might try out now is running a special power cord to the VW200 as I only have the original power cord to it as the "snap" on the VW200 would not allow for a bigger "special one". But this runs to a special block with a silencer on it, like I have on most of my electrical endings. Ill try a special Kimber power cable to the VW200 and see what happens, just for the fun of it. Where on AV Sience forum right!:D Seems to me that the VW200 is especially sensitive to heat. And Joe, yes I do not notice the High setting either, unless I think of it.;)

Oh yeah, this is not an electrical hum issue. I wish it was though. :) I have never had it with my first VW200 and or with the FPJ1/RS2 and right after RS20. It doesn't start up until this VW200 has been on a couple hours. Like I mentioned though, it is not a deal breaker and since this unit has already been in for a power supply change it must be the new norm for them. No worries... :)

Oh yeah, this is not an electrical hum issue. I wish it was though. :) I have never had it with my first VW200 and or with the FPJ1/RS2 and right after RS20. It doesn't start up until this VW200 has been on a couple hours. Like I mentioned though, it is not a deal breaker and since this unit has already been in for a power supply change it must be the new norm for them. No worries... :)

Tried the Kimber power cord. Well it turned out like one of those Mythbusters episodes where nothing goes exactly as planned, but you have some sort of "compromise" ending anyway. Well this is what happened. The power cord did not fit into the VW200 socket because of the "plug holder socket" (knew that before) but I thought I screw it of with the two screws holding it. Turns out the two screws hold more than the "plug holder socket" because all the socket including the AC in socket itself with the three pins came loose.:eek: Well I quickly screwed it back in place and as I was not about to take down the VW200 and tear it to peaces for this experiment. The Mythbuster would have but they are crazy anyway and dont have to pay for the stuff they destroy. Well only thing I could do now was put the shortest extension I could find from the Kimber cable to the VW200. It turnes out the Kimber cable and extension did not do anything for the "noise" and I have the VW200 back on the High cooler setting. The moral of this story being Sony is not High-End friendly cable wise (stupid plug holder:mad:) and High-End power cords will "most likely" not stop "the noise". So back to the drawing board?:D

I am able to fit my Monster Powerline 300 powercord in it...

I am able to fit my Monster Powerline 300 powercord in it...

Then we know power cords can not fix the "noise" problem and that some High End cables fit the VW200 but not all. VW200 owners should therefore check well the AC in socket of the VW200 before they buy their High End power cords.;)

I am even using one of those Mini Monster Powercenters with the outlet in my ceiling. I have always since day one. :)

God. I luv you guys but this is really funny. Trying to fix a buzz coming from inside your projector. Somebody diagnosing its coming from bad house power and someone else tring to fix it with a new power cord.

I`ll be more intelligent. JUST UNPLUG IT. NO MORE NOISE. DUH.

God. I luv you guys but this is really funny. Trying to fix a buzz coming from inside your projector. Somebody diagnosing its coming from bad house power and someone else tring to fix it with a new power cord.

I`ll be more intelligent. JUST UNPLUG IT. NO MORE NOISE. DUH.

If you dont have a buzz dont make a fuzz:D

God. I luv you guys but this is really funny. Trying to fix a buzz coming from inside your projector. Somebody diagnosing its coming from bad house power and someone else tring to fix it with a new power cord.

I`ll be more intelligent. JUST UNPLUG IT. NO MORE NOISE. DUH.

Why didn't I think of that?! :D

Is this the same sound as the vw100 "crickets" problems?

My VW100 never had cricket. :D I don't think it sounds like crickets. Just like it is in overdrive and a little harsh. Setting it to the High Cool setting completely cures it.

The only time I ever had a buzz caused by bad A/C was from a noisy dimmer switch on the same cicuit. Going to a dedicated 20amp run solved the buzz. Equipment buzz, that is .....

I have an older 200 and can report no such anomaly. As you guys imply, perhaps it is a quirk of the newer power supplies.

Since I now have had both (very first run and now one of the latest) I would vote for your second suggestion. :)

Is this the same sound as the vw100 "crickets" problems?

Well been looking at this "crickets" problem on other older VW100 threads. Yes I would say my VW200 "noise" resembles this "crickets" sound, well more like one shy "cricket" (by the way we do not have crickets where I live but some Idiots around here do "play cricket", but thats another story:D). Anyway looks to similar to be ignored. Seems to me VW100 owners had no way of getting rid of the "crickets" unless they changed lamps and then the "crickets" often came back. Usual quote was 300 hours for a first "cricet" attack. My attack was at 210 hours.:mad: But we in the VW200 have a simpler solution than lamp replacement, just put on the "High cooler" setting and the problem is fixed!:cool: Which brings me to the big question for all you former VW100 owners out there. Did the VW100 have a High and Low Cooler setting? If not, then why one in the VW200, but to fix those damn VW100 "crickets"!:rolleyes: Well I for one do not belive the VW200 operating instructions that state;
High: Use this setting when using this projector at an altitude of 1.500m or higher.:eek:
I live 3 minutes walk from the sea for crying out loud. Maybe Sony build this as the first airplane projector.:D Nope the operation instructions should state; "High; "Cricket" killer. Than me and Joe could go on with our lives knowing Crickets are part of the Sony landscape and they have a cure for it, namely High cooler:D Well guys did the VW100 have a High and Low Cooler setting.:)

You get to the Sony manual site. Bang. Looked it up. The VPL-vw100 has a high altitude mode when ze manual sez the fan spins with more turns.

Lamps are to costly to try for the heck of it and see if it gets rid of crickets... :eek:

Lamps are to costly to try for the heck of it and see if it gets rid of crickets... :eek:

See no mention on AVSF of High Cooler seting fixing anything with the VW100 Cricket problem, but it does with the VW200 "noise" problem. I guess the VW100 owners would have tried that out rather than change lamps, right! So I guess these problems are similar but not the same.:rolleyes: Well, I still have Rattle and hum on Standard setting, maybee I should talk to U2 about that.:D

Thunder, it doesn't start right away on Normal setting though does it? I can usually leave it on the Normal setting for about 2 hours before I need to switch to High Cool.

Of course lastnite we had 2 musicals going (Mamma Mia and Grease) and I had it on High Cool the entire time. You could not hear at all of course... :)

Thunder, it doesn't start right away on Normal setting though does it? I can usually leave it on the Normal setting for about 2 hours before I need to switch to High Cool.

Of course lastnite we had 2 musicals going (Mamma Mia and Grease) and I had it on High Cool the entire time. You could not hear at all of course... :)


It starts after 5 min. in my case, so I just have High setting on all the time now!

I have had mine on High for awhile now (keep forgetting to switch it back). I wonder if a new lamp would make it go back to Normal for awhile? Either way it is still not loud on High anyway so probably not worth worrying about. :)

I have had mine on High for awhile now (keep forgetting to switch it back). I wonder if a new lamp would make it go back to Normal for awhile? Either way it is still not loud on High anyway so probably not worth worrying about. :)


Whats your lamp time now?

About 300. But I believe it only had about 100 hours on the current lamp. Remember, this one went to Laredo and had the power supply swapped.

About 300. But I believe it only had about 100 hours on the current lamp. Remember, this one went to Laredo and had the power supply swapped.

Hope nothing obvious happens at 210 with yours, like it did with mine. I did not notice anything untill then. Whats the story with the power supply in yours anyway?

I guess it was bad and needed to be replaced. It was new when it happened so that is why I think this is the new norm for the High Lamp setings...

I posted this in another thread but really think I should do it here to. I watched Amusement about 2 weeks ago on the RS20. There is a scene (scary-ass Clown moment) about 28 minutes in (my favorite of the entire movie) where it starts to thunderstorm. On the house when the lightning would strike you could see that stange artifact around the hanging lamps on the side of the house. It is hard to explain but there was a dedicated thread to it here somewhere. In that thread they showed a weird artifact on a girls arm. It looked a lot like that (or was it). Anyway, case in point the VW200 played the same exact scene without a trace of it. Same for the musical Mamma Mia (which I didnt watch a few weeks ago on the RS20). My Wife made a comment (I was suckered into watching it with them lastnite) about the opening of the movie. They are driving on the island (a front view of them in the jeep) and she mentioned that it looked a lot smoother than before. I reminded her that was using a different PJ. She described it as an earthquake shake. On the VW200 it ran perfectly. And that is with MotionFlow Off. We don't use it for movies. Anyway, those were just two good examples. Granted those moments don't happen very often though. I just wanted to throw them out there in case any current VW200 owners were feeling like they were missing something. I won't bring up anymore. :)

Had a crazy thought yesterday. I took out the filter and cleaned it. Very well. Was just curious to see (hear) if that would help the fan noise when it is in standard. It helped it get to about 2 hours and 45 minutes (a little longer than before) before it started to get a little loud. I then just put it back in High Cool and it instantly stopped. It was worth a shot. :)

I sent my VW200 out to Laredo this afternoon. Here's to hoping for a speedy turnover. The noise (crickets) got pretty bad lastnight and even overcame the High Cool setting. It must be the fan or something. They were nice and I also asked for them to install any new firmware updates there might be. They should have it Thursday or Friday so hopefully....... :) Anyway, they also said if they can't fix it they would just replace it... :eek:

I sent my VW200 out to Laredo this afternoon. Here's to hoping for a speedy turnover. The noise (crickets) got pretty bad lastnight and even overcame the High Cool setting. It must be the fan or something. They were nice and I also asked for them to install any new firmware updates there might be. They should have it Thursday or Friday so hopefully....... :) Anyway, they also said if they can't fix it they would just replace it... :eek:

Mine is still fine on "High", hope it stays that way. Keep us posted Joe!

Will do. They should have it by Friday so hopefully we will have an update next week sometime. :)

Will do. They should have it by Friday so hopefully we will have an update next week sometime. :)

Do you need to BORROW a spare PJ - Joe ;)

Do you need to BORROW a spare PJ - Joe ;)

Are you offering? :D Lastnite, I put up my outdoor PJ (Sanyo Z5 720p). The image looks a little washed out in comparison and the black level sharpness, details and colors are miles apart. Hopefully this doesn't last to long! :eek: On the plus side, the Z5 was still not as bad as the RS20/FPJ1-RS2 in terms of motion handling...

Thought I mention it here and now as there has not been to much mention of Video based music material on this thread. The VW200 is the best PJ I have come across when screening live concerts, be it in native 1080i or 1080p. What makes it so out of the ordinary, is the use of "Wide" color mode and then the "High" motionflow setting. Some have questioned these settings, but when put into context with live music based performances. Nothing compares, its the best there is. The color and sharpness.:eek: Youre just there on the stage.:cool: Had to mention this after having tried out Deep Purple live Montreux 2006 (HD-DVD) once again on my XA2. The DTS-HD soundstage through my Meridian HD621 made things even more heavenly.:) Just thought I share this moment of AV nirvana with the rest of you VW200 owners. We are a lucky bunch are we not. Even though some of us sometimes have to send our "pride and glory" to the cooler, right Joe!:D

I can't believe this thread has made it 50 pages. :D

Thought I mention it here and now as there has not been to much mention of Video based music material on this thread. The VW200 is the best PJ I have come across when screening live concerts, be it in native 1080i or 1080p. What makes it so out of the ordinary, is the use of "Wide" color mode and then the "High" motionflow setting. Some have questioned these settings, but when put into context with live music based performances. Nothing compares, its the best there is. The color and sharpness.:eek: Youre just there on the stage.:cool: Had to mention this after having tried out Deep Purple live Montreux 2006 (HD-DVD) once again on my XA2. The DTS-HD soundstage through my Meridian HD621 made things even more heavenly.:) Just thought I share this moment of AV nirvana with the rest of you VW200 owners. We are a lucky bunch are we not. Even though some of us sometimes have to send our "pride and glory" to the cooler, right Joe!:D

A tune up will do it some good. :) On the plus side I was told a new firmware came out for it in April so at least I can post observations on that when it gets back here. If there are any. I have pretty much closed the theater down to visitors. Looks like the VW200 will be delivered to Laredo tomorrow. :)

It has landed! The VW200 has been delivered to Laredo. We shall see if it is a lamp issue or if there is something else going on. Fingers are crossed...

A tune up will do it some good. :) On the plus side I was told a new firmware came out for it in April so at least I can post observations on that when it gets back here. If there are any. I have pretty much closed the theater down to visitors. Looks like the VW200 will be delivered to Laredo tomorrow. :)

It is too bad firmware upgrades cannot be made in the field (ala BluRay players). I have to think features like motion-flow could be enhanced over time by better firmware algorithms.

It is too bad firmware upgrades cannot be made in the field (ala BluRay players). I have to think features like motion-flow could be enhanced over time by better firmware algorithms.

I agree. As I mentioned the latest VW200 operates somewhat different than my first one. For instance I do not see any flicker with 1080p/24 and Film Projection mode 3. With my first one we did. They should make the firmwares user accessible. Especially given the cost involved with shipping...

I received an email from sonyrepair saying they have received the VW200 and for me to expect an update soon... :eek: Of course it is an automated email but at least they seem on top of things...

I received an email from sonyrepair saying they have received the VW200 and for me to expect an update soon... :eek: Of course it is an automated email but at least they seem on top of things...

My Experience with SONY Repair has been TOP NOTCH http://www.rx8web.com/smilies/bouncy.gif

My Experience with SONY Repair has been TOP NOTCH http://www.rx8web.com/smilies/bouncy.gif

Thanks, I really do feel better. I admit I have lost some sleep wondering how this is going to shake out. My theater is a ghost town! :eek:

Thanks, I really do feel better. I admit I have lost some sleep wondering how this is going to shake out. My theater is a ghost town! :eek:

I offered to send you one of my 3 SPARE PJs.

I offered to send you one of my 3 SPARE PJs.

I appreciate that offer to. If I get a call from them tomorrow saying it is something BIG I may take you up on that. :)

I appreciate that offer to. If I get a call from them tomorrow saying it is something BIG I may take you up on that. :)

I have three theaters - That means you need THREE SPARE PJs ;)

I appreciate that offer to. If I get a call from them tomorrow saying it is something BIG I may take you up on that. :)

EVEN if it is SOMETHING REALLY REALLY BIG - they will have it fixed and in tomorrow's Mail to you.

I have three theaters - That means you need THREE SPARE PJs ;)

I promise the next time I have an issue you are my "go to" guy. :)

EVEN if it is SOMETHING REALLY REALLY BIG - they will have it fixed and in tomorrow's Mail to you.

I hope so. :)

I hope so. :)

SONY repair is EXCELLENT - you will see ;)

After the we got it email, it will probably be a few days before its diagnosed. Depends on how backed up they are.

The status has been updated to: The unit is now with a technician... :eek: I guess that is better than nothing. :)

I have to agree with the kudos for Sony Laredo repair! As the end of the warranty was approaching on my VW-100, since it was beginning to exhibit the 'hard start' problem when I last used it I decided to send it back to have that modification covered while under warranty. I also mentioned that I thought that the convergence was further out than should be acceptable (the entire red field was shifted a couple pixels horizontally.)

It wasn't particularly fast - perhaps a 2 or 3 week door-to-door turnaround, but when I got it back in addition to the hard start mod they had replaced the optical block (convergence is now quite good) and gave me a new lamp to boot. Very very satisfied! It's now serving admirably in a second system in my workout room.

Awesome! ^ :)

Vemanoel, I tried to reply to your PM but it came back because you have your options set to NOT receive PMs... :)

Are you getting up or going to bed?

Vemanoel, I tried to reply to your PM but it came back because you have your options set to NOT receive PMs... :)

Joerod,
Tks for telling me. Now I think it is OK. I am using the x.v color set to on and getting 12 bit video signal from the PS3 and from the Denon 2500. It disables the gamma and black level settings but I think it is worth it.
Once again I would like to have your actual settings to movies view. It is always a good start to fine tunning the VW200. I have also set the Realta T2 chip to digital noise "high" and to enhance +6 to get me a gorgeous DVD image from the PS3! Blu Ray image is always excellent no matter the settings.