I just ordered the ballast repair kit, Panasonic p/n: LSUC0022. Has anyone ever attempted to install this before? The startup time before the lamp would come on starting getting longer (several minutes). It now refuses to come on and goes from a blinking green to blinking red on the power button. The lamp indicator on the front also flashes red with long pauses in between. The ballast has close to 10K hours on it and I'm on my second bulb which I installed 5 months ago at 9300 hours.

Well the parts arrived and the Panny PT-50LC13 lives. The ballast repair kit worked and I didn't even install all of the components. I left one out because it required me to remove a copper plate that was heavily soldered to the circuit board. They also only give you one power transistor and there are 4 used in the ballast. None of the components that I replaced looked burned or damaged. I also didn't replace the fuse because it was fine.

Parts List - Items 1-6
http://brogers.napalm.net/gallery/tv_repair/IMG_0014.jpg

Item 1
http://brogers.napalm.net/gallery/tv_repair/IMG_0016.jpg
The diode says K1V66 around it.

Item 2
http://brogers.napalm.net/gallery/tv_repair/IMG_0015.jpg

Item 3
http://brogers.napalm.net/gallery/tv_repair/IMG_0008.jpg

Item 4
http://brogers.napalm.net/gallery/tv_repair/IMG_0021.jpg

Item 5
http://brogers.napalm.net/gallery/tv_repair/IMG_0012.jpg

Item 6
http://brogers.napalm.net/gallery/tv_repair/IMG_0024.jpg


Item location on circuit board
http://brogers.napalm.net/gallery/tv_repair/IMG_0029.jpg
All components on the circuit board has the component address printed on it. The parts list above will tell you the location of the parts that need replacing.

Ballast location
http://brogers.napalm.net/gallery/tv_repair/IMG_0031.jpg

I'm putting this information up here in case someone else needs it. Do this at your own risk. Please unplug your TV before you start taking it apart. You need soldering experience to replace these components.

THANKS brogers,
I tried your advice and will now be able to watch the Superbowl with this TV.
I tried my other lamp, but no luck. I was getting 75 green flashes on the power button, followed by red flashes. For every 5 red flashes the 'lamp' led would flash once. Took it to a "repair shop", who 1st told me that it was a thermal switch, but I told them to check out the ballast. They called back several hours later and told me 'Hey, it's your ballast'. For $300 in parts and $300 in labor they would replace it, or for this service kit it would be $80 and $350 for labor. I saw your thread and ordered the #LSUC0022 for $19.55 and $26 next day air and in 2 hours TV was WORKING. I also left out the fuse and power transistor and it looks like the discreet diode and resistor are beefier.

Thank again!

Yep with most rear pros today when the ballast dies most of the time it kills the supply that feeds it mainly from the SMPS. Its good they show you what to change and some time on a failed ballast all the components are not broken but may have been weakened so if you only replace the dead ones and not the weakened ones for no reason the weakened ones die later on and all that does is strain the new transistors or regulators that you have just changed.
Change the lot I say including the fuse.

Hi Guys,

Here's my problem. I replaced a the bulb (my 3rd) about 4 months ago and I am now getting random shutdowns. It sometimes happens within 5 minutes of turning the TV on. The red LED will blink and I hear the fan continue to spin. The TV will not turn back on. But if I hit the power button again, it will turn back on in about two minutes but again turn off sometime later. Do you guys think that if I replace the balast I could get a few more months out of this POS?

After replacing the lamp twice at about 18 months of use each, I came to the third replacement. After replacing just the lamp, I had the same problem as brogers so ordered the ballast kit.

After replacing the parts, I turned on the TV to see what I expected would be success. The screen lit up! Success! But after about two minutes, it went black and the rapid green and then red light started blinking again. After a rest I tried turning it on again-nothing but a blank screen.

Something must have worked for even that short period of time to get an image. I am sure the lamp is O.K. as it was a replacement and shows no sign of damage to the filament.

So, what would be the best next step? Any suggestions?

Don

Did you replace all the parts? I'm getting ready to done mine but I don't know if I should replace it all the parts...

Did you replace all the parts? I'm getting ready to done mine but I don't know if I should replace it all the parts...
I did replace all except item 5 (see above) due to location (and the fact that there are 3 so didn't know which one to replace). I ended up going to the "authorized" Panasonic repair location and was told that for only $300, I could order a "refurbished" ballast board with connectors and in the box ready to install. My decision at this point is to stop putting money into it and see if, with the upcoming digital television debacle, anyone will take it in trade for a new television (or for parts). This is without a doubt Panasonic's worst television they have made (or at least that I have purchased). Sorry I don't have better news.

Don

I think I'll give it a whirl. :D

My parts should be here in a day or so so we will see if it works for me.:cool: Wish me luck.

I hope that will be enough.

The ballast is already on the table, waiting to be fixed.

My TV does turn on, and stays on for a minute. sometimes (rarely) even a few hours. I wonder if I have the same problem that this kit fixes.

Once the TV shuts down - the power led blinks (1/sec) and the LAMP led blinks once every 5-sec.

All the parts on my ballast seem fine. Is there anything else I should be looking at while the TV back is open?

Thanks!

I just fixed mine yesterday, I think you really have to replace all of the component on the kit, because the first time I left one and didnt turn on, so I replace the one the I left out, and bingo. everything seems to work fine now.

Got the kit this weekend, installed it on Sunday, and it worked the first time I turned the unit on. However, I then moved it off the floor back onto its stand, turned it on, and it did not work, with the same old behavior.

I am going to pop it back open again, look for loose solder connections, etc. I also did not install the power transistor attached to the heatsink (why do they only provide one when there are four on the board?).

I was mistakenly shipped two repair kits, so I will attempt to replace two of the power transistors and see what happens. If anyone has any other ideas as to what the issue could be, I would be grateful for the input.

Never buying Panasonic again...

Just an update... I borrowed a much better quality soldering iron from a friend, and attempted to repair again. I knew my solder joint on the surface mount IC was not my best work, so I replaced just that component and turned the TV on, and it worked! Not to be fooled again, I very gingerly put everything back together and tested to be sure that the tv still works after each step (which caused me to get bit by the capacitor once- You should really let the unit sit for several minutes after unplugging, there is a serious risk of electric shock!).

Anyway, everything works now, and for about $25 I prevented myself from having to spend ~$1000 for a replacement. Hopefully by the time the lamp/ballast blow again, LCD's will be under $500.

The repair kit is often called an "upgrade" kit- has anyone still had problems with their ballast and bulb life after this repair?

Wow! Everyone here is so full of information it gives me hope I may get my tv running again. Just stumbled onto this site and am so relieved to know there are others out there w/similar problems yet fixing them too. I just put in a new bulb and still a black screen. (3rd bulb in 3 years) Willing to try the ballast repair kit but would like to know a reputable place to order one. Any suggestions? Any help is appreciated!

Where can you order this ballast repair kit? Can someone guide me to a location that sells this kit? Thanks!!!!:)

I ordered the kit (part # LSUC0022) from partstore.com. I ordered it on Saturday and it was here by Tuesday (I did 2 day shipping). My husband is right now trying to fix it. Make sure you study the diagram from brogers before you begin. My husband didn't and ended up taking the tv too far apart and messing w/things he probably shouldn't have. We'll see if he can get it all back together now. Wish us luck.

Learned all kinds of new things about the inside of a tv but...it works! Aside from taking the tv COMPLETELY apart when it wasn't necessary, then realizing he was messing with the wrong circuit board, learning how to solder on a circuit board (had to look that up online to fix the wrong board and the correct one) and finally checking with broger's diagram numerous times (thank you), our marriage and the tv survived the 5 hours of snarling. However, if inexperienced soldering, tv repair novices like us can do it, most people can too. Let's hope it lasts for a while now!

Wanted to send out a big "Thank You" to this forum. It took me about 45 minutes to replace the components after reviewing the content here. What is the the part that fails most here? I did replace all the components in the kit expect the transistor (as Non of mine tested bad and why replace only 1). My fuse F1301 good, diode D1315 good, R1305 good, Q1306-1309 Good.

D1301 replaced but condition unknown suspect this to be the $.70 fix. I could not read the writing on the one removed, make sure you look at the circuit board so you install correctly!

C1330 replaced but condition unknown

I'd like to know what you have all found so I can put together a spares kit in case this happens again in the future.

My Panasonic stopped working today, with the classic blinking green led, followed by endlessly blinking red led, accompanied by the lamp led every five seconds. I iniitally thought the lamp had burned out, but upon inspection, the lamp looks ok to the naked eye.

I'm assuming this means it's probably a ballast issue, but I decided to test the lamp with an ohm meter. Unfortunately, the lamp seems to be an open circuit. Is this normal? Is it some kind of arc lamp, or does infinite resistance mean that it is a lamp problem after all?

Thanks,
Jerry

Jerry -

Probably your lamp is bad. Your lamp is a HID unit (gas gap), so there is no filament to measure whether the bulb is burned out or not by a test meter.

If you can tell us the flash sequence of the lamp LED, we might be able to give you a better description of the problem.

Thanks to brogers!

I followed suggestions and ordered the repair kit directly from Panasonic, it was less than $30.
I installed the parts (it's been a bazillion years since I soldered anything) and it started right up!As others did, I left out the part (00011) since can't tell if one was bad, or if so, which one.

Kudos to you all for this forum and the input.

What is so sad, are people who are letting this fine TV go for peanuts. If they only knew that a low-cost solution was available for their problem.

Check out eBay Item #160264625807. No affiliation.

Tomwil,

Thanks for the reply. The led flash is the standard "bulb or ballast is bad" sequence. For the power LED, about two minutes of green flashing, than red flashing, about once a second. Every five flashes of the power LED, the lamp LED flashes.

I ended up getting the ballast kit (since it's so cheap) and soldered the new parts on, except for the transistor. Same symptoms. When that didn't work, I sent the bulb back for a warranty replacement. I'd bought it four or five months ago and the web site said it has a year warranty. Kudos to the vendor, Bluestar International, for not giving me any hassle about the replacement. Right now I'm waiting for them to send me a new bulb and we'll see if that fixes it.

-Jerry

I think my tv just started doing this. Get nothing but green light flashing and then back to red. No bulb or temp light at all. Can hear faint hum like something is trying to start. Could that be the ballast?

anyone?

I think my tv just started doing this. Get nothing but green light flashing and then back to red. No bulb or temp light at all. Can hear faint hum like something is trying to start. Could that be the ballast?

My PT-40LC12 is doing the same thing, but only occasionally. After a few restarts, the bulb finally ignites and the TV works.

First thing to make sure, is that you have a good bulb. If the bulb is bad or will not ignite, it will go through the blinking sequence you describe.

If the bulb is good, then the ballast is probably bad. You should hear some clicking, like a spark trying to ignite the bulb. There is a ballast repair kit available, described on this thread.

If that doesn't solve it, then the next item of failure is the power supply itself.


As a side note, I compared the components used in the PT-50LC13 ballast, and seems to be similar to the ones on the PT-40LC12 ballast. Therefore, I also ordered the LSUC0022 kit, and will replace the components on my PT-40LC12 ballast when my TV finally doesn't light up. My ballast is buried inside the TV, whereas the PT-50LC13 ballast is more exposed and easier to get to. When I finally do this, I will try to document like brogers did.

my bulb is blown so Ill start with the replacement first. Anyone know of a good place to buy the bulbs?

Anyone know of a good place to buy the bulbs?

The OEM Panasonic TY-LA1000 still seems to be around $300.

This is so disheartening. Last week I had posted instructions on how to use the Panasonic ballast repair kit #LSUC0022 to repair the Panasonic PT-40LC12 and PT-45LC12 TVs. The AVS Forum crash of 8/11/08 erased all of that.

It will probably be awhile before I attempt to repost those instructions again. I want to be very sure the AVS Forum upgrade of 8/2/08 is really stable.

Thanks again, brogers, for helping me repair my TV and saving me the cost of a new flatscreen!

So here's the follow-up on my problem. If you recall, I had the classic symptoms of a failed bulb, four months after having replaced the last one. I thought maybe the bulb wasn't the problem because to the eye, it looked intact, not at all like previous times the bulb had blown and looked shattered.

I ended up getting the ballast kit and replacing most of the components (except the pesky transistor). That didn't help. So I then returned the bulb for a warranty replacement. The bulb was a bare bulb, without the enclosure, which I had purchased from bluestar-online.com. They were pretty nice about not giving me a hassle about replacement (although it took a while for their warehouse to actually do it).

I got the new bulb, replaced it, and voila, the tv worked again! That was Thursday last week. We've been using the tv pretty heavily because of the Olympics, and the tv's been working fine. Turned it off last night. This morning, we turned it on and it's back to the blinking red led!!!! I looked at the bulb and it _looks_ ok.

I don't know what to do -- is it likely that there's something in the power supply that's frying the bulbs without shattering them? Or am I getting bad bulbs? What should I do??? The local repair shop said it would be a minimum of $600 to fix if it was something like the ballast. That's almost half the price of a new LCD tv.

Please, does anyone have any advice on how I should proceed?

Thanks,
-Jerry

Jerry -

I also am confused about the bulb situation. There appears to be three manufacturers of the bulb: Phillips, OSRAM, and LTI. Which one is the actual OEM replacement for Panasonic is anyone's guess.

Here are a few statements pulled from the internet:

From some time ago we notice that some lamp distributors started selling generic projector lamps for some of the most reputable brands of TV and projectors of the market, we conducted a testing to know how good these aftermarket lamps were. Our results were a total disappointment. Most generic lamps failed after a few hundred hours in the best case. In others cases the color quality is not like the original, but in almost all cases the life of those lamps is significantly less than the original.

Our testing confirmed what we hear from customer who bought generic lamps. ALL generic lamps failed before 800 hours of use.

Another problem of generic lamps is the risk of damage to your unit. Although, we didn't experience damage units, these generic lamps have the potential to damage a projector beyond OEMs warranty and there is a risk of explosion or fire.

How do you know if your lamp is generic or OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturer) ?

This is one of the most difficult task because generic brand are almost physically identical to OEM lamps but most OEM factories use a specific barcode and bulb from the top lamp manufactures like Philips, Osram or Ushio, Buy your lamp from a reputable source and ask for OEM before buy it. If the price if significantly less than OEM, then probably it will be a counterfeit or generic lamp.

Our recommendation is always to use OEM. Take special care with Ebay sellers and online discount stores because a high number of them are selling generic replacement lamps, without telling it to you, to raise the profit.

This is a brand new in the box lamp Manufactured by Osram. The same lamp that is in your PANASONIC right now.

# Brand New Original LTI Part
# Lighting Technologies International (LTI) is the industry leader in the design, development, and manufacturing of projection lamps. LTI's lamps are specifically designed for optimal effectiveness bringing longer life and enhanced stability. Enjoying unparalleled performance at markdown is the LTI way. LTI, leading the way in lighting technologies for projectors and projection TVs. LTI is proud to be a part of Philips!
# This is the equivalent alternative for Panasonic part number TYLA1000

As of March 2008, Phillips has acquired LTI (Lighting Technologies International) and many sellers have begun selling LTI lamps but actually telling customers that the lamp is made by Phillips when in fact the lamp is not. LTI is an after-market maker and not the original maker for the following manufacturers of TV’s (See Below).

OSRAM/SYLVANIA is the OEM manufacturer for all RPTV/DLP lamps. Phillips is the inventor of the UHP lamp but PHILLIPS DOES NOT SELL TO END USERS, NOR DOES PHILLIPS ALLOW RESELLERS TO SELL BARE LAMPS TO END USERS. So please beware of this scam, someone will sell you a Phillips lamp but Phillips will not warranty it. OSRAM is the only OEM maker that allows CERTIFIED resellers to sell bare lamps to end users, OSRAM is required by the Federal Government to sell all lamps through Sylvania in the US.


If you have an OSRAM lamp in your TV we highly recommend replacing that lamp with a Philips. It’s no secret Philips is the innovator of Ultra High Pressure (UHP) Mercury Lamps (created in 1995). The quality and dependability of Philips lamps are much greater than OSRAM, or any of the generic brands out there (LTI, APO, etc.. The combination of better “burners” and more advanced drivers (the ballasts) are a few reasons why Philips lamps outlast the competition.

Very confusing, to say the least.

The bulb I got says "Phillips" and "Made in China". I am now assuming it is a LTI product. Although it seems to be working now with the ballast repair kit, it may quit at any time.

But, I don't think I am willing to buy directly from Panasonic at $300.

In short, it could be the bulb, or the ballast/power supply that is killing the bulb. I didn't replace the transistors in my ballast also; I wonder if that could be the problem?

Please let us know what your solution is. Thanks!

Tom, that's good info, thanks. Can you tell me where that first quote, about conducting tests of aftermarket bulbs, came from? Actually, I can probably just google it. If that's true, that would be evidence that it's the bulb rather than the set that caused the failure.

Maybe I'll have to bite the bullet and put another $300 for a real bulb into this sucky Panasonic. It's either that or spend $1800 on a Samsung 550 LCD set, which is what I'd replace it with. It's a tough choice.

I've had the some problem and 3 replacement bulbs - none of the "bad" bulbs looked bad to me and one was placed back into the unit and worked fine after a warrenty call. I once again find myself experencing the flashing lights described in this forum. After finding this forum I unplugged the thermal fuse and turned the unit on. The lamp fired up then turned off - no surprise here. I plugged the fuse back in and the unit works fine. This leads me to believe that the problem may be the fuse or connection. Can anyone shed light on this? Also, I can't see how to get the fuse out - it's a small rectangular board with a clip on the far edge. The problem is that the sides won't pop up - any info is greatly appreciated!

Saga continued:

I ended up calling bluestar-online to try to get a second replacement for the bulb, but the phone support guy (who seemed rather knowledgeable and who was happy to take a bit of time to talk to me) seemed to hold a strong belief that when a bulb burns out twice in that short a time, it's not the bulb, it's the tv. He recounted the testing these bulbs go through and knew about Panny problems and ballasts and resetting the bulb life counters and such. In any case, he told me the warranty they have on the bulb only covers one replacement, and they wouldn't give me a third one. However, he did say to call him back if I was able to find a bulb that did work ok in the set and they'd work with me if that happened.

So this guy could have been feeding me a line, it's in their interest of course not to supply me with endless bulbs, but he sounded earnest, so who knows. In any case, I still don't want to spend $600 or more on a repair job that may not be warranted. So I decided to buy a factory original full bulb enclosure from dlp-lamps. $250, but it comes with a Panasonic 1 year warranty. If that ones burns out is a short time too, I'll have to assume it's the set. But if that happens, I can get a warranty replacement, sell it on ebay or something, so at least I won't be out the $250, and then buy a new tv that doesn't suck.

Tommyg33 - sorry, can't help you with the fuse. Wait, maybe I can -- I downloaded a repair manual back when I was fooling with the ballast. It's on a different computer though. Stay tuned -- tomorrow I'll see if it covers the thermal fuse.

Tommyg33 - Interesting post!

I shorted out the Temperature Fuse, which didn't solve my problem. But I didn't check out the Lamp Thermistor CBA, which contains the temperature sensor. I will try the steps you did, and see if that affects anything.

Tommyg33:

Sorry, I looked through the service manual and it didn't say anything about disconnecting the thermal fuse from the projector assembly. In the disassembly order, it mentions the thermal fuse after both the ballast and the projector assembly have been removed from the set. It specifically says not to remove it in the ballast removal procedure, but it doesn't go into their thinking.

I have the PT-50LC13 and am having what I believe is a ballast issue. I ordered a ballast repair kit, and attempted to install it. The only thing is that after installing all components except the transistor (because I didn't know which one of the 4 to replace), the tv still does not work. Does anyone know if the polarity of D1301 could be an issue? If so, can anyone inform me on the correct orientation of this part as I failed to note it before removing the old part.

I also just replaced the lamp just to make sure that wasn't the problem. And, the tv's current symptoms are that on startup, the ballast sporadically clicks and you can see flashes from the bulb through the back of the tv (with the back panel removed), but the screen does not illuminate. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks.

-Brian

Does anyone know if the polarity of D1301 could be an issue? If so, can anyone inform me on the correct orientation of this part as I failed to note it before removing the old part.

Brian, the orientation of diode D1301 is very important. The purpose of a diode is to allow current in only one direction.

I do not have the PT-50LC13 (just the PT-40LC12), and I couldn't tell from brogers' circuit board pic, but I think the orientation of that diode should have that line (cathode) pointing towards the circuit that has the 3 surface mount resistors in a row.

Best to check with someone who actually has the PT-50LC13, though.

Thanks tomwil... That is how I had the diode oriented. I went ahead and attempted to turn on the tv again today... and Eureka! The tv came on (after 2 or three tries of the ballast clicking away). I was ecstatic.

However, the fix there was only temporary as when I came back a few hours later, while the tv was turned off, it was back to the same error. (The LAMP LED lights up once every 5 seconds.)

I think my next step is to try and measure some voltages to see if I can determine where the problem is originating from. I just have to get a hold of the service manual. Any suggestions as to where I should start? Should I attempt to acquire and replace all 4 transistors on the ballast?

Mine is also sometimes hard to start. I had also replaced all the components supplied in the repair kit, except the transistor.

I will probably try replacing the transistors next. Order another 4 transistors @ $5 ea, and replace the whole set.

The only thing different between us is that I do not get the Lamp LED warning blink.

I hope someone that has done this is still reading here... D1301, part MA2Q73600L per the pictures might very well have been the part that stopped my ballast as it appears melted on top and I can not see the markings. The new part has a mark on it like a diode but the circuit board does not appear to have the orientation noted on it. I see this was mentioned for a different model Panasonic, but wanted to see if anyone else can confirm this. Two other quick questions: 1) Technique for soldering a surface mount diode 2) I did not see the transistors on Panasonics parts list (B1DEGQ000044) - anyone know another source or a replacement equivalent? Thanks.

D1301, part MA2Q73600L per the pictures might very well have been the part that stopped my ballast as it appears melted on top and I can not see the markings. The new part has a mark on it like a diode but the circuit board does not appear to have the orientation noted on it.

I think Panasonic puts an epoxy coating on that diode, which obscures the markings. If you look at the other surface-mount diodes, they appear to have the same coating. I took a sharp object and very gently scrapped away that coating to reveal the markings and verified the orientation before removing the diode. When you remove that diode, you will see the circuit board diode diagram showing the correct orientation, that is underneath the diode.

1) Technique for soldering a surface mount diode

There is a guide here (http://www.geocities.com/vk3em/smtguide/SMT-GuideV1-3.PDF).

2) I did not see the transistors on Panasonics parts list (B1DEGQ000044) - anyone know another source or a replacement equivalent?

If you go to Panasonic's Parts and Accessories' website (http://www.pstc.panasonic.com/Epartr/PartsListChoice.asp), and enter B1DEGQ000044 in the "Search by Part #", you will see that transistor available for around $5.

I'm trying to repair my PT-45LC12 using LSUC0022 (Ballast Service Kit)
Anyone know which component to replace for PT-45LC12 using ballast service kit?
I kind of guess, is this the right one?
PT-45LC12
1. D1315 --> D1317?
2. R1305 --> R1703
3. D1301 --> ????
4. F1301 --> F1701
5. Q1306 --> ??
6 C1330 -->

I'm trying to repair my PT-45LC12 using LSUC0022 (Ballast Service Kit)
Anyone know which component to replace for PT-45LC12 using ballast service kit?
I kind of guess, is this the right one?
PT-45LC12
1. D1315 --> D1317?
2. R1305 --> R1703
3. D1301 --> ????
4. F1301 --> F1701
5. Q1306 --> ??
6 C1330 -->

You got some of it. Here's the rest:

PT-50LC13 --> PT-45LC12

1. D1315 --> D1317
2. R1305 --> R1703
3. D1301 --> D1701
4. F1301 --> F1701
5. Q1306 --> Q1302-Q1306
6. C1330 --> C1314

I replace all the component except the transistor because not sure which one to replace :( and I measure the transistor all of them have same measurement.

After I put it back and tried it, I got green light blinking and no clicking noise.

I verified that all the component have proper connection.

Any idea what I did wrong or should I replace one of the transistor?

JerryR - Thanks for checking. My behavior remains constant - every time the unit fires up wiht the red blinking light I:

1. unplug the power
2. remove the fuse connection
3. restore the power & turn the unit on (sometimes repoeat this step twice)
4. the unit powers on then shuts itself od as the fuse is not connected
5. unplug the power
6. restore the fuse connection
7. power the unit on - I have not found this to fail and the unit works fine until I turn it off. Sometimes it will turn on otherwise I go back to step one.

Does anyone have any idea whether a fuse replacement may correct the problem?

Needless to say this is beyond annoying and Samsung is looking like a viable option at this point!

Thanks....
Tommyg33:

Sorry, I looked through the service manual and it didn't say anything about disconnecting the thermal fuse from the projector assembly. In the disassembly order, it mentions the thermal fuse after both the ballast and the projector assembly have been removed from the set. It specifically says not to remove it in the ballast removal procedure, but it doesn't go into their thinking.

You got some of it. Here's the rest:

PT-50LC13 --> PT-45LC12

1. D1315 --> D1317
2. R1305 --> R1703
3. D1301 --> D1701
4. F1301 --> F1701
5. Q1306 --> Q1302-Q1306
6. C1330 --> C1314

hey, im the one who messaged you before the weekend, and thanks for the slot numbers for the components. That really helped, but is there a way to tell if anything is burned out without using a multimeter? i don't currently have one and i DONT want to be turning on 25000 volts just to check something. I'd rather live. I guess i'll just have to solder the components into those sockets when they come and then see if the tv works again :)

My Panasonic PT-52LCX65 stopped working last night. Blinking green power led for about 90 secs (I think that I hear a rattle like sound which I'm assuming is the ballast trying to fire up the lamp while green led is flashing) , followed by blinking red led for about a min, accompanied by the lamp led every five seconds (continues until I unplug the power cord).
The lamp actually looks ok to me but I'm probably wrong as I have had the TV for 3 years and haven't had to replace the lamp yet. I'm concerned though by the ballast issues. I'm hoping that the problem is isolated to the lamp but in the case that it isn't so, can anyone tell me if the same part no. (LSUC0022) applies to my TV too. Any help on this issue would be greatly appreciated.
Nirmalya

My Panasonic PT-52LCX65 stopped working last night. I'm hoping that the problem is isolated to the lamp but in the case that it isn't so, can anyone tell me if the same part no. (LSUC0022) applies to my TV too. Any help on this issue would be greatly appreciated. Nirmalya

Probably your lamp needs replacing. There is really no way to tell if a lamp is bad by looking at it, unless it has exploded.

The service manual only lists the ballast as a complete unit (LSEB3163A), and not by its individual components. At the Panasonic Parts website (http://www.pstc.panasonic.com/Epartr/PartslistChoice.asp), it shows that the LSUC0022 (version LSQL1865-1) components are used on your set. If you remove the ballast board, you might be able to determine where the LSUC0022 components are used on the board.

I'm electronically challenged and could use some good advice.

Last night my four-year-old PT50LC13 TV gave off a loud "pop" and went black. When I removed the lamp housing, the bulb had a lot of small loose crystals in it. I guess this means it "exploded"?? I've ordered a replacement lamp/housing and I should be able to handle the re-installation, but can I expect to have problems with the ballast or other components, as well? If so, are there still TV repair shops around (my original dealer, Tweeter, is no longer in the area)?

i recently aquired a Panasonic 45lc12 from the in-laws, who said the bulbs kept poping, so they stopped using it. i bought a new bulb, $150 overnighted from discount-merchant.com it was a philips bulb. poped that in, and turned it on... still has the constantly green blinking light... i left it sit like that for an hour or so, thinking it might sporatically turn on like an above poster said it did, but it didnt. my question is, am i wasting my time and money with this tv? i cant find a ballast kit for this specific model anywhere, will the 50lc13 ballast kit work? also, i have the back off the TV, i can see where the ballast is (under the bulb cage housing), but it seems like i have to pretty much take the whole flippin thing apart to get to it. the next step i wanted to take is to see if the door switches ( the one that senses if the door to the bulb is off or not ). also, the filter has a little peg like the bulb door that goes into a hole, but there isnt a switch there, just a circuit board. is there supposed to be a proximity switch there too?
i am fairly proficient in any electrical tasks, so once the board is out, soldering the new parts in is a cinche to me, i just dont want to take the whole entire set apart to get at the ballast when common sense should inform any idiot designing a tv to put items subject to early death as easily accessible as possible (4 screws for a bulb anyone?)

i recently aquired a Panasonic 45lc12 ... i cant find a ballast kit for this specific model anywhere, will the 50lc13 ballast kit work?

If you care to read the above threads, you will see that the LSUC0022 ballast repair kit can be used on your PT-45LC12.

The ballast is buried within your set, and will take some disassembly to get it out. Instructions here (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1066130).

still has the constantly green blinking light

Continuous green light diagnosis here (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=15325394#post15325394).

also, the filter has a little peg like the bulb door that goes into a hole, but there isnt a switch there, just a circuit board. is there supposed to be a proximity switch there too?

No, there is no switch there. That circuit board is used as a temperature sensor to detect if the fan fails or the filter gets clogged.

TOMWIL,

If you have the patience to repost your earlier instructions, I would greatly appreciate it fore I have the same problem and from all I read you seem to be the man!

Thank you,
Gary



This is so disheartening. Last week I had posted instructions on how to use the Panasonic ballast repair kit #LSUC0022 to repair the Panasonic PT-40LC12 and PT-45LC12 TVs. The AVS Forum crash of 8/11/08 erased all of that.

It will probably be awhile before I attempt to repost those instructions again. I want to be very sure the AVS Forum upgrade of 8/2/08 is really stable.

Thanks again, brogers, for helping me repair my TV and saving me the cost of a new flatscreen!

My Panasonic PT-52LCX65 stopped working last night. Blinking green power led for about 90 secs (I think that I hear a rattle like sound which I'm assuming is the ballast trying to fire up the lamp while green led is flashing) , followed by blinking red led for about a min, accompanied by the lamp led every five seconds (continues until I unplug the power cord).
The lamp actually looks ok to me but I'm probably wrong as I have had the TV for 3 years and haven't had to replace the lamp yet. I'm concerned though by the ballast issues. I'm hoping that the problem is isolated to the lamp but in the case that it isn't so, can anyone tell me if the same part no. (LSUC0022) applies to my TV too. Any help on this issue would be greatly appreciated.
Nirmalya


I have a PT-44LCX65 and have the EXACT same issues. The new bulb and the one I just replaced look the same. The original bulb was black around the edges and white in the middle when I replaced it. I just cant believe two new bulbs are both bad.

I have reposted the Panasonic PT-40LC12 and PT-45LC12 ballast repair instructions. They are located at http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1066130

TOMWIL,

If you have the patience to repost your earlier instructions, I would greatly appreciate it fore I have the same problem and from all I read you seem to be the man!

Thank you,
Gary

If a bulb lights up, but cuts off after a minute or so due to the ballast possibly needing the repair kit installed does that mean the bulb is most likely still ok because it does light up?

I just bought a used Panasonic PT-50LC13 for $50 and also purchased the ballast repair kit for $16 + $4 shipping. The person who sold it to me said he figured it needed a bulb, but the repair man told him it was most likely the ballast. I am hoping to get lucky and have a working TV as soon as I go and buy some new solder and flux to install the new components. Any input would be greatly appreciated.

I also have a PT-44LCX65 which takes the TY-LA1000 bulb. Have just purchased and installed a new bulb. Worked for 3 days. I would like to purchase a ballast repair kit but need to know if it's the Panasonic p/n: LSUC0022 that I need for my PT-44LCX65.
Thanks for the great forum.

I would like to purchase a ballast repair kit but need to know if it's the Panasonic p/n: LSUC0022 that I need for my PT-44LCX65.

If you plug your model number into Panasonic's Parts website (http://www.pstc.panasonic.com/Epartr/PartslistChoice.asp?) you will see that the LSUC0022 (version LSQL1865-1) parts are used on your set.

However, the service manual only lists the Ballast CBA (LSEB3163A) as a complete unit, and does not show the individual components. If you purchase this repair kit, you will have to match up the components on the board on your own.

If a bulb lights up, but cuts off after a minute or so due to the ballast possibly needing the repair kit installed does that mean the bulb is most likely still ok because it does light up?

According to this link (http://www.fixya.com/support/t876423-pt_40lc12_panasonic), the bulb could be drawing too much current and shutting down the ballast. It is unknown at this time whether the ballast repair kit would solve this type of problem. Please let us know of your results!

Hi -

Great thread. Tomwil and Brogers should be commended for their contribution. :cool:

I have the (Dreaded?) PT-50LC13 and it died last week. I'm on my 3rd bulb burn-ou after only 4.5 years of ownership. Still I love the TV when it works. :rolleyes:

This time, I ordered a bare bulb from DLP Lamp XPress (http://www.dlplampxpress.com) but when I put it in - no dice. :mad: I also don't hear any clicking noise at all, except when I first turn the TV on. The rest of the symptoms are atypical of a burnt out bulb: Green flash for a couple minutes, then red-flash with a "lamp" indicator flashing once every 5 secs. Fan quietly whirring in the background.

Phew - at least the olympics are over! :)

Now - the Bulb - It was sold as a Panasonic "TY-LA1000" replacement lamp, but it was a little harder to fit into my housing than the original. Watch the video here (http://www.dlplampguide.com/tyla1000.html) and pay attention tho the lower wire post which is on the right-side of the original bulb, and the left side of the replacement. also the bottom plates aren't flush like they were with the original bulb. I don't recall any markings on the bulb but at this point I will probably take it out and inspect.

I'd like to know if anyone else has dealt with DLP Lamp XPress and whether they are reputable....?

...And with my symptoms should I go buy the LSUC0022 kit and break out my (sure-to-be-dusty) soldering iron? Is that the right kit for my TV model too? Is there anything else that I will need? Panasonic's price on the kit is $21.07 - is that the best price?

Thanks in advance!

-Braino!

This time, I ordered a bare bulb from DLP Lamp XPress (http://www.dlplampxpress.com) but when I put it in - no dice. I'd like to know if anyone else has dealt with DLP Lamp XPress and whether they are reputable....?

I have dealt with DLP Lamp XPress. I think they are related to River Valley Electronics. The bulb I ordered from them did not work in my TV, with the same symptoms as your unit has. I was able to return the bulb for a refund, minus the shipping charges. I found their customer support as excellent, with a toll-free number and quick responses to email.

My ultimate solution was to install the ballast repair kit, and get the actual bulb and enclosure from Panasonic itself. Seems that combination is working out fine, for now.

...And with my symptoms should I go buy the LSUC0022 kit and break out my (sure-to-be-dusty) soldering iron? Is that the right kit for my TV model too? Is there anything else that I will need? Panasonic's price on the kit is $21.07 - is that the best price?

The price seems about right, and you will probably get the newer kit rather than left-over older stock. The kit was made for your TV specifically. Installing the kit will probably help in your situation. Electronic experience will be needed, and simple tools, like screwdrivers, pliers, tweezers, etc.

Does anybody know part list for lsuc0022?Transistor or capacitor value?

The LSUC0022 parts list is shown on the 2nd post of this thread.

Greetings. First of all, many thanks for the excellent assistance offered in this thread. It savedme much panic and hair pulling.
I have a PT-45LC12 TV, and yes, I hate the low life of the bulb. Yesterday I turned on my TV to find flashing green light, no picture. Upon investigation on the web, I found your site (among others) talking about the thermal fuse and the ballast repair. I popped the back of the TV off, checked the obviously placed thermal fuse with my multi-meter, sure enough, no continuity. Snipped it off, temporarily crimped the wires together, TV works. My local electronics store has a similar thermal fuse (117 c instead of 115c) which I will pick up tonight on the way home and crimp into place.
Questions.
1. Any evidence out there that a blown thermal fuse is an indication of further problems? I deal with thermal fuses in my work, so I know sometimes they just die, for no good reason, just "your time is up"

2. Is there any compelling reason to go through the hassle (and possible danger of damaging components) to replace the components in the LSUC0022 repair kit if the TV is currently working? (best price I have found is tristatemodule $15.89 plus shipping, minimum shipping $7.95) Will replacing the components (specifically the capacitor,which I read has a different value than the one stock in the board) possibly avoid future problems or extend the life of my bulb?

Thank you again for all the great helps, photos, instructions and hand holding for these problems. (I wonder why they didn't include a thermal fuse in the ballast repair kit)

you guys are great. original post...thanks a ton for the photos. i t's so funny i found this today while googleing the ballast.

i had same problem. called a guy and he told me 335 to fix. i found the parts for 30 bux and almost puked. i'm gonna try and do this myself . i used to solder slot cars together so it can't be that hard.

ONE QUESTION. I HAVE EVERYTHING APART AND UNHOOKED BALLAST WISE. THE ONE PROBLEM IS.... THOSE 3 WHITE PLASTIC THINGS THAT ARE HOLDING THE CIRCUIT BOARD TO THE CHASIS. THEY ARE LIKE THOSE ONES YOU INSERT INTO A HOLE AND THEY OPEN ON THE OTHER SIDE AND YOU CAN'T GET THEM OUT. HOW THE HELL DO YOU GET THEM OUT TO BE ABLE TO LIFT THE CIRCUIT BOARD OUT TO WORK ON IT?????

THANKS A TON
CHRIS
CHRISLINEPA@HOTMAIL.COM

you guys are great. original post...thanks a ton for the photos. i t's so funny i found this today while googleing the ballast.

i had same problem. called a guy and he told me 335 to fix. i found the parts for 30 bux and almost puked. i'm gonna try and do this myself . i used to solder slot cars together so it can't be that hard.

ONE QUESTION. I HAVE EVERYTHING APART AND UNHOOKED BALLAST WISE. THE ONE PROBLEM IS.... THOSE 3 WHITE PLASTIC THINGS THAT ARE HOLDING THE CIRCUIT BOARD TO THE CHASIS. THEY ARE LIKE THOSE ONES YOU INSERT INTO A HOLE AND THEY OPEN ON THE OTHER SIDE AND YOU CAN'T GET THEM OUT. HOW THE HELL DO YOU GET THEM OUT TO BE ABLE TO LIFT THE CIRCUIT BOARD OUT TO WORK ON IT?????

THANKS A TON
CHRIS
CHRISLINEPA@HOTMAIL.COM

I HAVE EVERYTHING APART AND UNHOOKED BALLAST WISE. THE ONE PROBLEM IS.... THOSE 3 WHITE PLASTIC THINGS THAT ARE HOLDING THE CIRCUIT BOARD TO THE CHASIS. THEY ARE LIKE THOSE ONES YOU INSERT INTO A HOLE AND THEY OPEN ON THE OTHER SIDE AND YOU CAN'T GET THEM OUT. HOW THE HELL DO YOU GET THEM OUT TO BE ABLE TO LIFT THE CIRCUIT BOARD OUT TO WORK ON IT?

I used needle nose pliers, and just squeezed the spades together to allow the circuit board to slip up and around them.

that was gonna be my first try tomorrow thanks a TON

Hi All! I've got my PT-50LC13 torn up in the back with the ballast board ready to be pulled. My problem is the three wiring connections (p1301, p1302, p1303, p1305) that lead somewhere to middle of the set. Does anyone have any info on what to remove to get to those connections? I'm sending the ballast board out for the repair and need to get those unhooked.... Thanks!

@tol56 - I don't have your model TV, but it appears you have to remove the TV Tuner Unit that is located to the left of the ballast, in order to remove the ballast connections from the TV Tuner Unit.

The disassembly manual seems to be available at http://tsn.pasc.panasonic.com/viewing/NA/PT-50LC13/SVC/3disassem.pdf

LTI, Lighting Technologies Inc no longer exists in the rear projection TV marketplace. They were purchased last year by Philips Lighting (Philips Electronics). One of the reasons LTI was purchased was to strength Philips' market share in the cinema business but an equally important reason was to eliminate a competitor that gave UHP lamps a bad name with their unreliable products. Today in the market, there are essentially FOUR major OEMs:

Philips, Matsushita (Panasonic), Toshiba, Osram. Must of this stuff is repeat information and I rather not copy and paste it here...

There is also Ushio, though most of their lamps are used in FP units.

http://www.ushio.com/files/catalog/pav-replacement-lcd-dlp.pdf

My PT50LC13 won't start. Replaced the bulb but it still won't start. When I turn it on, I get two green flashes then continuous organge-red fashes-five flashes, a pause and this repeats until unpluged. I'm tempted to try the ballast fix but would appreciate some confirmation that this is the likely problem. I was puzzled when I replaced the last bulb because it hadn't imploded like previous ones had (it was an osram). Having just invested $115 in the new bulb, I hate to just scrap the TV. It does not seem to make sense economically to have a repair shop fix it.

When I turn it on, I get two green flashes then continuous organge-red fashes-five flashes, a pause and this repeats until unpluged.

What LED(s) are flashing?

If it is just the TEMP LED that is flashing 5 times, then it indicates a clogged air filter. Otherwise, if a different LED or multiple LEDs are flashing, it could require more intensive repair.

Here is some more info on my problem. Had to go back and look for more LED lamps since I hadn't noticed the lamp & temp indicator lights previously!

The continuos redish-orange colored flashing light comes through the slot in the power on button. When the TV is turned on the power button has two green flashes followed by five redish-orange flashes, a pause and then five redish-orange flashes again and again. This repeates until the unit is unpluged. When the unit is first turned on, the Lamp indicator and Temperature indicator LEDs blink red one time only.

I've had the back cover off and removed the fan looking for filters but didn't see any filters. There are only vent slots on both sides of the rear panel. Did some cleanup but the unit was not terribly dusty at all. Is there really a filter somewhere that I didn't see?

When the TV is turned on the power button has two green flashes followed by five redish-orange flashes, a pause and then five redish-orange flashes again and again ... the Lamp indicator and Temperature indicator LEDs blink red one time only.

The nearest LED sequence listed in the service manual is when the power LED flashes 5 times within 5 seconds, the Lamp LED and the Temp LED each flash once every 5 seconds. This indicates abnormal voltage detected on the Main Circuit Board Assembly.

Is there really a filter somewhere that I didn't see?

The filter is located in the Projection Unit. The Projection Unit must be removed from the rear, to reach the filter. When the filter needs cleaning, there is usually a message on the screen recommending filter cleaning.

Hi recently replaced lamp for the 2nd time (3rd lamp) worked fine for three weeks, now I have no picture but perfect sound. There is a faint glow from screen making me think lamp is lit. Any suggestions? Also, none of the diagnostic lights are blinking, power light is solid green. Thanks!

My 40lc12 has had 5 or more bulbs since it was new on the market (thanks to BB's ext. warrenty). Recently a dimming picture caused me to buy a replacement bulb from discount merchant.com. The picture looked great and lasted 3 days. Went to flashing green (hearing slight rapid clicking at the bulb assy. followed by red flashes for a minute, no other lights. Sent it back for testing they sent another bulb to me (also one replacement only). It worked for 2 days and then...also old bulb would not light again. Fragile beyond belief?

Seems to be common to the tv, and as others wonder, did the affordable bare bulb (not having the ventilating screen walls of the orig. type) have a failure? Is the ballast taxed out? The tv is watched about m-f 6 hours and sa su 18 hours a day; basicly on when we're home.

Thoughts any one, or is it obvious to be the ballast? has anyone determined if all 4 power Xtors need replacing on the 40?

Thanks,
Bob

Two questions, what should you clean the bulb with if you touch it? And when you install the new parts on the circuit board, is it easy to figure out which way they go?

So I have the blinking green power light - PT-45LC12. Just picked up this set from a neighbor for $50. The lamp is not obviously exploded. Is replacing the lamp my first step at this point?

Two questions, what should you clean the bulb with if you touch it? And when you install the new parts on the circuit board, is it easy to figure out which way they go?

The bulb can probably be cleaned gently with a soft cloth dampened (not wet) with rubbing alcohol, obviously when the bulb is cool.

If you are talking about the parts available in the ballast kit, the diode and transistor need to be oriented properly. If you read the previous posts, there is some mention about orientation of the parts.

So I have the blinking green power light - PT-45LC12. Just picked up this set from a neighbor for $50. The lamp is not obviously exploded. Is replacing the lamp my first step at this point?

You should have a blinking green, followed by a blinking red and eventually a shutdown. If so, lamp replacement is usually recommended first, before any of the more extensive solutions.

The bulb can probably be cleaned gently with a soft cloth dampened (not wet) with rubbing alcohol, obviously when the bulb is cool.

If you are talking about the parts available in the ballast kit, the diode and transistor need to be oriented properly. If you read the previous posts, there is some mention about orientation of the parts.



You should have a blinking green, followed by a blinking red and eventually a shutdown. If so, lamp replacement is usually recommended first, before any of the more extensive solutions.


Thanks,

How long before it starts blinking red? So far, it just blinked green for a couple of minutes and I turned it off.

How long before it starts blinking red? So far, it just blinked green for a couple of minutes and I turned it off.

It should blink green for 140 seconds, then blink red for 60 seconds, and then turn solid red as the unit shuts down fully.

It should blink green for 140 seconds, then blink red for 60 seconds, and then turn solid red as the unit shuts down fully.

Nope, just blinks green.

Nope, just blinks green.

According to the service manual, a continuously blinking green indicates 3 possible problem areas.

1) Check the duct fan and determine if it is turning. If it is not turning, then the Main CBA is at fault.

2) Check Temperature Fuse P1701. If defective, replace.

3) Otherwise, the Power CBA is at fault.

Thanks much. The CBA is ?? Circuit Board? And the fuse is the heat fuse at the back? I guess I will try replacing the fuse first, I don't think I am qualified to do much else.

Thanks for the help, I only replaced Item 1,2, and 6 (in Picture at the front of thread) and it works. I did not want to try to replace the small square unit on the bottom. Could this give me trouble in the future? Also does anyone know which piece is the one that causes the problems, or do all of them cause the problem?

I think I needed to make my post a more definitive question. Is the CBA the circuit board? If so, will the ballast kit resolve the circuit board problems? Is the P1701 fuse the heat fuse?

Thanks

I only replaced Item 1,2, and 6 (in Picture at the front of thread) and it works. I did not want to try to replace the small square unit on the bottom. Could this give me trouble in the future? Also does anyone know which piece is the one that causes the problems, or do all of them cause the problem?

Not sure what actual part(s) may have been faulty, but Panasonic provides all those parts for a reason only they know. But, if it works, it might not last long as a faulty part may still exist and weaken the replaced parts.


Is the CBA the circuit board? If so, will the ballast kit resolve the circuit board problems? Is the P1701 fuse the heat fuse?

According to Panasonic, CBA = Circuit Board Assembly.

Check here (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1066130). Keep the diagnosis steps of the blinking green led in mind. You will see the duct fan, which you can determine if it is spinning. There is info provided about the temp fuse. And, the Power CBA contains the ballast kit parts.

Not sure what actual part(s) may have been faulty, but Panasonic provides all those parts for a reason only they know. But, if it works, it might not last long as a faulty part may still exist and weaken the replaced parts.




According to Panasonic, CBA = Circuit Board Assembly.

Check here (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1066130). Keep the diagnosis steps of the blinking green led in mind. You will see the duct fan, which you can determine if it is spinning. There is info provided about the temp fuse. And, the Power CBA contains the ballast kit parts.

Thanks very much.

I'd have to check my records but I think I purchased my PT45LC12 in '02. I've replaced the bulb three times, the first two times with panasonics $300 bulb in case replacement kit and the latest with discount merchant replacement bulb (phillips). The first two times worked fine (you know the drill), pull out the old and plug in the new. The latest I had to put on some surgeon gloves, disassemble the bulb from its case, reassemble with the replacement bulb and then install it. All was good for a few days until I turned the TV off and then decided to turn it back on again (within a few minutes). I let the unit cool off for the night and the next day it turned on again. Over the course of the next few weeks I noticed the bulb became more reluctant to fire up.

At this point I'd try to power up the TV, the green light would start to blink, then a few seconds later I'd here clicking, followed by silence, some more clicking and eventually the green light would turn red and the TV would power down.

I call discount merchant to ask if this might be related to the new bulb and based on what I described, the individual helping me seemed to think it was related to the ballast, not the bulb. To be honest, I wouldn't be able to tell. She recommended I investigate the ballast and if things didn't work out I could always ship the bulb back so they could test it.

At this point I stumbled upon this forum and for the most part have read through the multi-page correspondance that discusses (in many spots) the PT45LC12 (or similar). I figured for $30 it would be worth purchasing the ballast repair kit and trying it first before returning what is presumably a perfectly good bulb.

As of now my plan is to replace all the items that come in the repair kit. If that doesn't do the trick then I'll send back the bulb to see if it's damaged.

If anyone has any suggestions based on the above, I'd be more than greatful to hear them.

Thanks.

johngim -

In all probability, it's the bulb that's at fault.

As you mentioned, the Panasonic bulbs worked fine. It's when you went to a generic cheap bulb, that you began to experience problems so soon.

Same with me. I got a generic cheap bulb, had problems with it lighting up, installed the ballast kit, but the bulb soon after would not light at all. I then returned the bulb, and got another original Panasonic bulb & enclosure ... TV has worked regularly since then.

You can install the ballast kit. It might help, but be aware that you can actually mess things up also, which would then be an expensive board(s) repair or replacement.

If you do attempt the ballast repair, please let us know of your results with your current Philips bulb.

Tomwill
end of thread for now, I see. I got the kit and 4 addl xtors.
I am inquiring of the tiny relay diode at the relay (40-12). no marks anywhere and I mean no-where; old and the board. Seems it should sink (line)to the supply side (resistors acording to standard relay mechanisms); my CB has no marking. we'll see...

Different mine is, green light on; clicking...then to red, no lamp led. Also discount bulb #2. worked both bulbs less then 24 hours. Had 4 Pany bulbs work fine until this bulb a'round since it was new new. The replacement bare bulbs ($125) did not have the 4 side screens at the top for ventilation (obviously -and I asked). Reset always close to changes. I hear if the bulb life reset is not done ASAP it can kill the ballast!?! I am doing the ballast since there is not another bulb to "their warrenty" They say it has to be the ballast!...thoughts?

Merry Christmas, everyone of us!

I am inquiring of the tiny relay diode at the relay (40-12). no marks anywhere and I mean no-where; old and the board. Seems it should sink (line)to the supply side (resistors acording to standard relay mechanisms); my CB has no marking.

rjfranken -

Sorry for the short answer ... Happy Holidays!

As posted here (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=14514818#post14514818), the CB diagram is located under that diode. I know, seems stupid, but I guess when first assembled, that diagram was visible.

Basically, the orientation of that diode should have the line (cathode) pointing towards the circuit that has the 3 surface mount resistors in a row. You can verify this by taking a sharp object and very gently scrap away the epoxy coating to reveal the markings on the diode and verify the orientation before removing the diode.

Thanks! I did look at all the posts and scraped it and ... Thanks again.

tomwil,

It appears I have a similar problem to rjfranken. We both purchased replacement bulbs from discount merchant (phillips), the bulbs worked initially and now we suffer from the same ailment - green flashing light, followed by clicking, eventually the red light. He's indicated that he's gone through two bulbs (and dis. merch. won't offer another), whereas I've gone through one (possibly) and am considering sending it back for testing.

To date, I've received the panasonic repair kit, installed all replacement components except the transitor, reassembled the tv and ended up with the same result, i.e. green flashing light, followed by clicking, eventually the red light.

I've ordered the add'l transistors, but, before installing them I'm considering trying an original manufacturer's bulb (with housing if needed). I hoping that within the return policy window I can troubleshoot whether or not it's the bulb or remaining transistors.

I've tried to research less expensive but original manufacturer replacement parts and ended up with the following results: Lamps-DLP offers an orig. manuf. lamp w/ housing for $264, DLPLampSource offers an orig. manuf. lamp for $169 and BlueStar-Online offers a factory lamp (noted as replacement Osram lamp) for $115. I don't want to make the same mistake of going too cheap but at the same time I'd prefer not the spend anymore than needed.

Do you see any issue going with the "lamp only" offers?

Thanks for the input.

johngim -

What constitutes an OEM bulb? I think to be very sure, the bulb should be obtained from the manufacturer itself. As you read the previous threads, there seems to be lots of claims of companies offering OEM bulbs and having problems with them later on.

My working solution ultimately was to purchase the actual TY-LA1500 bulb package from Panasonic. Realize that Panasonic does not sell the bulb separately, but as a package including the bulb, enclosure, and a filter. And, it is expensive at $299 plus shipping costs, but I believe comes with a warranty. If you can find a company that is selling a truly unopened TY-LA1500 package (one without being refitted with another bulb), you can get it slightly cheaper.

It really seems bulbs are a gamble. When a bulb blows out, the companies will blame the ballast. When you repair the ballast, it seems you still have to replace the bulb because supposedly the ballast killed the original bulb. But, that replacement bulb soon dies also. Do you still blame the ballast, or the bulb? That is why companies restrict the number of replacements.

In your situation, it appears you have the same options as I did - either seek bulb replacement from Discount Merchant, or ask for a refund and apply that to a true Panasonic bulb. As I said, I got the refund, bought from Panasonic, and have had success since then ... it works reliably and consistently.

Please let us know of your decision, and of your ultimate success.

http://www.ercservice.com/images/TYLA1500.jpg

tomwil,

Just to recap - in the past, I had always purchased replacement lamps in housings through Panasonic. More recently (Aug. 2008) I decided to try an inexpensive bulb, knowing very little about OEM, factory original, manufacturer original, etc. I purchased a Phillips lamp (no housing) through Discount Merchant. The effort to switch the lamps was reasonable and the lamp fired up the first time I turned the TV back on. From that point on, I noticed that if the lamp had been used recently then it was reluctant to start up again. After a few weeks it just didn't light up at all.

I called Dis. Merch. and they suggested I check into the ballast. I ordered the ballast repair kit and changed all parts except the transistor. I reassembled the TV and tried the replacement Phillips lamp with no luck - same result as before introducing the ballast repair kit - green blinking light followed by clicking and eventually red light.

I then decided to order a lamp with housing through DLP Lamps. This is a Panasonic lamp with housing but for a few dollars less. I installed the Panasonic lamp with housing this past Sunday and the TV has been working fine. If the TV continues to work then it's likely I never had a ballast issue and the problem was directly related to the Phillips lamp.

I've also contacted Discount Merchant, brought them up to speed and plan to send back the Phillips lamp. If the lamp checks out OK then I'll get 75% of my money back, if it checks out as faulty/failed then I'll get the full 100%.

I'll keep you posted on lamp performance as time ticks by.

Hello all,

I recently experienced a very similar situation that you all have. Last month my PT-50LC13 told me the bulb life was getting high and that the bulb should be replaced (the bulb is original). I ordered a new (Philips) lamp that came with the wires and connector attached to it. I swapped the new lamp into the existing housing. It worked great for a few weeks until I started getting the 75 green flashes, etc. At this point I put my original lamp back in, and it worked fine.

I then proceeded to order a ballast kit. The kit came in and I had it about a week before my original bulb finally blew out, which prompted me to stop procrastinating and install the ballast kit. Like most, I installed everything but the fuse and the transistor-looking thing (I metered the original fuse to ensure its operation). I spoke with some electrical engineers at my work who are of the opinion that the two pairs (four total) of transistors on the ballast should be replaced in pairs, so I opted not to replace the transistor.

I got everything reassembled and fired it up, but all I got was the 75 green flashes again! This got me thinking about something I had noticed about my lamp a couple weeks ago- forgive me if I'm using incorrect terminology, but the wires going to the anode and cathode of the new lamp were opposite to what they were connected to on my original lamp. I swapped the wires, and now the set came on just fine!

My point of all this pontification is as follows: did swapping the anode and cathode wires really make a difference? Obviously the set came on, but I'm not convinced the bulb will continue to operate. Does anyone know if having the anode and cathode wires switched would cause a bulb to sporadically function?

Hello all,

I had to replace my bulb in February of 08 and I purchased the replacement lamp from DLP lightsource...the tv has been functioning properly until a week ago and I got the same power indicator flashing sequence as other have described. Before coming to this forum I assumed we blew another bulb and I sent it back to DLP lampsource assuming it was burned out. It was replaced under their 1 year warranty and I reinstalled it and the tv will not work. Same green/red/lamp flashing sequence. The replacement bulb is an OSRAM. So could it be a defective bulb or most likely the ballast after reading all the posts I assume the ballast. My father has the same tv and I was thinking about pulling out his bulb unit and trying mine...could this damage his tv at all? I would hate to mess his up by moving the bulb etc.

Thanks in advance

I just purchased a PT-50LC14. It has similar issues with the blinking LED's. Solid red power light when you plug it in, turn it on, it blinks green for a short time then blinks red with the bulb led blinking occassionally. The person I bought it from included the Ballast repair kit. They either did not have the time or the know-how to attempt the repair. The issue I have is, there are huge differences in the Ballast board on the LC14 model vs the LC13. There are at least two of the components that I can not find on the board. Can someone help me figure out if this ballast repair kit is compatible with my TV, and if so what are the adjusted part labels on the board. Also, can anyone help point me in the right direction to find the service manual? If I had schematics and trouble-shooting techniques, that would be helpful. Not sure if my problem lies in the ballast, more than likely its a cheap bulb. Just thought I'd start with the ballast repair since I have the parts. Any help is appreciated!!

I just purchased a PT-50LC14 ... there are huge differences in the Ballast board on the LC14 model vs the LC13.

Tough call.

When you plug in your model number in Panasonic's Parts (http://www.pstc.panasonic.com/Epartr) and sort by Part Number, there are only a few matches with the LSUC0022 Ballast Repair Kit. Probably Panasonic substituted newer part sources on your model.

You can try to replace the components that you know are a direct match, and see if that alone might correct your problem.

More likely, you have a defective bulb, but since you have the kit, it might be worth trying.

Please let us know your results.

Well I did replace the parts that did match up, which was D1315, C1330, and F1301. That leaves parts 2, 3, and 5 (from original pics in thread). #5 matches Q1306-09 but like most said, you only get one and there are 4 so I'm not worried about that. Its 2 and 3 (D1301 and R1305) that are a little more important, but I can not find them on the board anywhere and I know the service manual would list if such parts exist on this model. And you are right, panasonic doesn't list the part number for R1305 (D1F5100E0002) as a part for this model. It does list the part number for D1301 but without the service manual I don't know what location it actually goes in since there is no D1301 to be found.

Any way, as for results: After replacing the parts that I could identify/match, some progress seems to be made. When I push the power button the light stays green and it looks like there is light coming from the bulb, but only for a short period, then there is a faint green flash on the screen, and it goes back to a red flashing power LED. There is also a humming/buzzing noise coming from the back of the TV now too. I'm heavily leaning towards the bulb being the culprit.

The person I purchased the TV from said the guy that "gave" it to him had recently replaced the lamp. So now I'm 3rd party DIY'er. I don't know what kind of replacement the other guy used, OEM, OEM 'equivalent', or just a bulb replacement and didn't wire it into the housing that well.

My next step is going to be examining the Lamp assembly and see if I notice anything not right.

Any other suggestions for my journey? I also have a PT-47WX53G that I'm trying to repair. Gotta love Panasonic RPTV's!

On a slightly related topic. What kind of life do most people see out of the cheaper bulbs? Just trying not to initially spend $250 on a lamp assembly from Panasonic until I know for certain that's the issue, in case I have to spend $300 on a new ballast. Just don't want to spend the $100-$125 on something that's not going work at all. Any input would be appreciated.

I ordered the aforementioned ballast repair kit and wondered if anyone had specific step by step instructions on how to do the repair work. The illustrations above are rather vague. Thanks in advance.

I ordered the aforementioned ballast repair kit and wondered if anyone had specific step by step instructions on how to do the repair work. The illustrations above are rather vague.

It is suggested that if you do not have electronic and soldering experience, performing this repair is not recommended.

If you do have the experience, then if you carefully read this whole thread, you should have little problem in replacing the components.

In particular, there are pictures and links that show the location of the components, the disassembly manual, and even soldering techniques.

You don't mention the model TV you have, but if you have the PT-40LC12 series, there is an additional thread here on the forum that has component replacement instructions.

It is suggested that if you do not have electronic and soldering experience, performing this repair is not recommended.

If you do have the experience, then if you carefully read this whole thread, you should have little problem in replacing the components.

In particular, there are pictures and links that show the location of the components, the disassembly manual, and even soldering techniques.

You don't mention the model TV you have, but if you have the PT-40LC12 series, there is an additional thread here on the forum that has component replacement instructions.

I don't have any experience but my cousin who is an electrical engineer for Motorola does and he is going to perform the work for me. I am just trying to make it as easy as possible for him and have everything available ahead of time. I have the PT50LC13 model and noticed it is different than the 40LC12 model which had better instructions on its thread.

Hello all you experts! I am new at this. I have the blinking green followed by a sparking or humming noise the noise comes on twice, than 30 sec after the humming noise comes on again twice,it does this for 4 times. Than the red light does not stop flashing every 1 sec plus lamp light every 5 sec, the fan and the red light does not stop until I unplug the unit. After replugging the unit I tried again to restart with the same response sa the first time.

How can you tell if it is the light, or the ballast, or both,or maybe something else, that needs to be replace, without waisting money on one or the other?

Can you help me to diagnose the problem?

Thanks!

I have the blinking green followed by a sparking or humming noise the noise comes on twice, than 30 sec after the humming noise comes on again twice,it does this for 4 times. Than the red light does not stop flashing every 1 sec plus lamp light every 5 sec

Provided you are only getting "1" lamp light blink every 5 sec, here is what to look for according to the service manual:

1) check or replace the lamp
2) check or replace the temperature (thermal) fuse
3) repair or replace the ballast

Probably the cheapest or easiest step is to check that the temperature fuse is not open. Then replace the lamp. Then repair the ballast using the kit.

More than likely, it is your lamp that is giving the problem.

had my lemon since 2004. since then, ive replaced the bulb twice and the ballast once. this last time, the bulb blew - its clear from all the glass shards inside the bulb. i would replace the bulb, but i dont want to replace the bulb only to have it blow again. my question is do i need to replace the ballast to make sure that the bulb doesnt blow again? or can i go without the hassle of replacing the ballast?

razorweb -

It is most like the lamp only. Lamps do seem to explode at times.

Usually if the ballast was at fault, the bulb would not start or the circuitry would shut down the TV due to an abnormal condition, such as current or voltage overload.

Someone just gave me this PT-50LC13 TV. The power light just flashes green slowly, then faster and then it goes red and nothing ever happens. I have read a lot of the posts in this thread and ordered the LSUC0022 ballast repair kit, but now I think I also need the D1302 bridge rectifier as well. I haven't gotten it off the circuit board but a friend that dowses and is good at it, says the repair kit won't be enough. That this D1302 is also bad. Actually, he said that only D1315 and Q1309 that come in the kit need replacing, along with D1302. How do I get a part # so I can try to order this extra part that isn't in the kit? My friend says the HID bulb is still good, so I figure if I can get these three parts replaced and have a nice TV, why not?

How do I get a part # for D1302 so I can try to order this extra part that isn't in the kit?

According to the service manual, D1302 is part # B0FBBR000004. It is available at Panasonic Parts (http://www.pstc.panasonic.com/Epartr/PartsListChoice.asp) for around $12.

It does list the part number for D1301 but without the service manual I don't know what location it actually goes in since there is no D1301 to be found.

The PT-50LC13 D1301 part # MA2Q73600L matches the PT-50LC14 D1307.

According to the service manual, D1302 is part # B0FBBR000004.

Thank you. I see it is back ordered. Good thing I'm not in a big hurry to watch TV any time soon.

Thank you. I see it is back ordered. Good thing I'm not in a big hurry to watch TV any time soon.

I didn't check availability at Panasonic ... sorry! But it appears it is in stock at http://www.partstore.com and cheaper at $10.

Hi All,

I've been following all the posts since my PT-50LC13 stopped working. I got the signal that the lamp was the problem (flashing red led) and replaced the lamp. But this did not fix the problem. After reading the posts here I suspected it was the ballast. I ordered the repair kit. Its here and I went back through the forum to look at the instructions and diagrams for fixing the ballast and noticed some posts I had missed before. So before I proceed I wanted to throw a couple of questions out there:

1. I noticed some talk about the thermal fuse. I did not check this. Should I? Could this also give the blinking lamp its bad signal? If I should check it, what does it look like and where is it located?

2. I saw broger's post and assumed that removing the ballast board would be fairly easy (it looked like it was right at the back of my set). But I just viewed tomwil's post on removing the ballast board. Yikes! However, those instructions are for the pt-42 set and not the pt-50. Do they still apply? Is there any easy way to get the board out of the pt-50lc13? Or do I need to follow his instructions? I want to make sure Im doing the right thing before I take half the set apart.

Thanks again for all your help!

Melissa

1. I noticed some talk about the thermal fuse. I did not check this. Should I? Could this also give the blinking lamp its bad signal? If I should check it, what does it look like and where is it located?

2. I saw broger's post and assumed that removing the ballast board would be fairly easy (it looked like it was right at the back of my set). But I just viewed tomwil's post on removing the ballast board. Yikes! However, those instructions are for the pt-42 set and not the pt-50. Do they still apply? Is there any easy way to get the board out of the pt-50lc13? Or do I need to follow his instructions? I want to make sure Im doing the right thing before I take half the set apart.

First, do not use the disassembly instructions for the PT-40LC12 ... your model is a lot easier. I had posted the disassembly instruction link for your PT-50LC13 here (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showpost.php?p=15020883&postcount=71).

On page 3 of that document, you will see where the thermal fuse is located (with connector P1306). Usually you can short out the fuse temporarily to check if it is open and defective.

According to this link (http://www.fixya.com/support/t876423-pt_40lc12_panasonic), the bulb could be drawing too much current and shutting down the ballast. It is unknown at this time whether the ballast repair kit would solve this type of problem. Please let us know of your results!

Thanks so much for your last reply. I am sorry for not responding back until now. I did replace the old components with the new ones provided in the ballast repair kit. That did not solve my problem completely, but buying a new bulb did. I purchased a brand new bulb online, which included the housing for $115.00. It was a great deal.

The picture quality is excellent... very bright and vibrant colors. It has been 3 months since I replaced the bulb and installed the ballast repair kit and I must say the TV is working flawlessly. Hopefully with my installing the ballast repair kit I will get the maximum amount of hours out of my new bulb. I would have to say for my investment I got a pretty darned good deal on this TV. It's in mint condition and came with the TV stand as well.

Panasonic PT-50LC13
Price for TV $50 - bought used from a local seller
Price for ballast repair kit $20 - shipping included
Price for new bulb $ 115.00 - shipping included

Total investment $185.00

Thanks again for this post on how to repair the ballast problem

There was mention of this earlier in the thread and I could not find any solution or reference to the post and I am having the same problem.

First I have the 1sec power red and 5sec lamp light flash. I ordered the balast repair kit and replaced everything but the transistor. Turned the TV back on and it worked for two minutes and then reverted back to the 1sec power and 5sec lamp.

I thought that I had installed something wrong so I ordered a new kit. After replacing everything (except transistors again) I turned the tv on and it worked again for 2 min then went back to the 1sec power 5sec lamp.

Any ideas? Sorry if this question has already been answered, I could not find it.

Thanks

Well, I thought I was on the right track, now i'm not so sure given the different trouble codes. Can you help?

My pt50lc13 is turning itself off. After I hit the blinking red power light (with the lamp light blinking one time for every 5 red power blinks) it starts blinking green...and after a minute or two, turns back on and works for about an hour, at which time it turns itself off again. Same sequence.

Ballast? Bulb?, Other?

My last Panasonic TV ever, and probably last panasonic anything. I hate how they've screwed us with this product.

My last Panasonic TV ever, and probably last panasonic anything. I hate how they've screwed us with this product.

I completely agree. I had the PT-50LCX63 and fortunately had the entire guts of the thing replaced within a few months of purchase. I dealt with Panasonic corporate and the local division of consumer affairs-quite the nightmare overall. Still, with all of the problems reported on various threads, plus the anticipation of having the bulb blow whenever, I ended up not using it very much. Sold the thing a few weeks ago & have washed my hands of Panasonic TVs forever.

First I have the 1sec power red and 5sec lamp light flash. I ordered the balast repair kit and replaced everything but the transistor. Turned the TV back on and it worked for two minutes and then reverted back to the 1sec power and 5sec lamp.

I thought that I had installed something wrong so I ordered a new kit. After replacing everything (except transistors again) I turned the tv on and it worked again for 2 min then went back to the 1sec power 5sec lamp.

Could you be more specific on the number and color of blinks you actually have for each of the LEDs (Power, Temp, Lamp)? The info you provided makes it hard to determine your blinks in the service manual.

My pt50lc13 is turning itself off. After I hit the blinking red power light (with the lamp light blinking one time for every 5 red power blinks) it starts blinking green...and after a minute or two, turns back on and works for about an hour, at which time it turns itself off again. Same sequence.

Your problem seems to indicate a temperature problem. Does the TEMP LED ever blink?

Quote:
Originally Posted by tckephart View Post
First I have the 1sec power red and 5sec lamp light flash. I ordered the balast repair kit and replaced everything but the transistor. Turned the TV back on and it worked for two minutes and then reverted back to the 1sec power and 5sec lamp.

I thought that I had installed something wrong so I ordered a new kit. After replacing everything (except transistors again) I turned the tv on and it worked again for 2 min then went back to the 1sec power 5sec lamp.

Could you be more specific on the number and color of blinks you actually have for each of the LEDs (Power, Temp, Lamp)? The info you provided makes it hard to determine your blinks in the service manual.

The power light blinks red once every second. The LAMP light blinks red once every five seconds.

Sorry for the confusion.

Tomwil:
Thanks for inquiring. For some reason, it has stopped turning off, but I believe it was the lamp light that blinked, but cannot be double sure if the problem has stopped. I did manage to blow out the dust from the vents. It wasn't substantial, but there was some. Dusty vents preventing the bulb from cooling? After blowing them out, it still turned off for a bit, but again, has since stopped.

Tomwil:
Thanks for inquiring. For some reason, it has stopped turning off, but I believe it was the lamp light that blinked, but cannot be double sure if the problem has stopped. I did manage to blow out the dust from the vents. It wasn't substantial, but there was some. Dusty vents preventing the bulb from cooling? After blowing them out, it still turned off for a bit, but again, has since stopped.

Hi, long time reader, but haven't been here for a while.

I've had the same experience as quoted above. Bought the ballast kit and replaced everything last night. Got a new bulb this afternoon. The TV turned on right away and then shut down after two minutes. I got the red blinking power light and then the red lamp light every 5 seconds.

I replaced everything except the transistors since I didn't know which one might be bad. Is there some way to test them? Is there some way I can test the new lamp to see if it's blown now?

Thanks in advance,

LZ

The power light blinks red once every second. The LAMP light blinks red once every five seconds.

tckephart -

The power light blinks should be counted together within a 5 sec period. Thus, it still is hard to determine the true number of blinks from your description. I have included a chart of the blinks that I found on the net that should help give you an indication of what each series of blinks mean.

Bought the ballast kit and replaced everything last night. Got a new bulb this afternoon. The TV turned on right away and then shut down after two minutes. I got the red blinking power light and then the red lamp light every 5 seconds.

I replaced everything except the transistors since I didn't know which one might be bad. Is there some way to test them? Is there some way I can test the new lamp to see if it's blown now?

There is no way I know of testing the lamp unless it is installed and tried in another Panasonic TV. But if the lamp will not light up now, then it is probably blown. Very common effect for generic lamps.

In previous posts above, it was mentioned that additional transistors were available for about $4 each, and a diode was also recommended for replacement that might help the ballast situation in addition to the repair kit. It probably would be better to replace all the transistors, rather than unsoldering and testing each transistor separately on a testing device to find a bad transistor.

First, do not use the disassembly instructions for the PT-40LC12 ... your model is a lot easier. I had posted the disassembly instruction link for your PT-50LC13 .

On page 3 of that document, you will see where the thermal fuse is located (with connector P1306). Usually you can short out the fuse temporarily to check if it is open and defective.

Hi Again! Im back after a bout of flu and now ready to tackle fixing the ballast. BTW, I counted the red flashes of the LED this time and its flashing about every second (so according to the service manual this indicates ballast internal error).

Thanks Tomwil for the info! Anyway, I was studying the service manual for removing the ballast. It goes over how to remove the tuner and the ballast together. My question is do I have to remove the tuner to be able to disconnect the ballast cba? I see there are 3(?) wires connected from the ballast cba to the tuner.

Thanks!
Melissa

I was studying the service manual for removing the ballast. It goes over how to remove the tuner and the ballast together. My question is do I have to remove the tuner to be able to disconnect the ballast cba? I see there are 3(?) wires connected from the ballast cba to the tuner.

I do not have your model TV, so I do not know if there are any shortcuts that brogers or others have taken to get the ballast out. Unless someone else chips in who has done the removal, you can probably find a shortcut once you begin the process. Perhaps there is a way to remove the wires from the tuner without removing the tuner?

If you find a way, please let us know, since disassembly manuals are sometimes wrong. Thanks!

I ordered a repair kit --Panasonic LSUC0022-- to fix my panasonic pt-50lc13 but ended up not using the kit at all. So if anyone is looking for a kit, Ill sell mine for 15 bucks.

I was the 3rd post to this thread...Thanks brogers...TV died last week...again with the same issue, but at least it lasted 15 months! Looks like I'll buy another ballast repair kit, but I did a little reseaching and found THE manual for this POS! It gives all the blinking light scenarios (and what to replace), not repair them. I need one more post to supply links.

Here's the manual for the PT50LC13, just copy and paste it to address line.

I need one MORE post, so here goes.

http://www.mediafire.com/?ojcvi3nm1m3

Hi and thanks to all for the informative posts.
I have a PT-44LCX65 with the "Error 5" blink pattern from TOMWIL's recent post.
From earlier posts, it seems that the general sequence of parts replacement has been lamp first, ballast second, lamp (again) third. Unfortunately, my specific model isn't referenced. The TV hasn't been serviced in any way since purchase in 2005.

Synopsis: A week ago the "error 5" occurred after an attempt to turn the TV on. I had moved a week earlier and the TV may have been bumped. The TV didn't work for about a day until I started fiddling. I unplugged the TV for about an hour, plugged it back in and it worked until until today when it actually turned itself off (hadn't done that last week).

Now, it won't turn on at all ad just keeps repeating the error 5. I unplug for hours, plug back in, but consistently get the error 5

Question 1 of 2: Does the fact that it came back on after the hour respite (last week)mean anything?
Question 2: The Panasonic parts list does not include a Ballast repair kit. Is there a kit for what ails this set?

Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.

Oh, forgot to mention that I get the rapid clicking noise as though something is attempting to happen. This sound occurs for a few seconds, goes away for a few seconds occurs again for several more seconds and then goes away.

The green power light blinks for its 140 seconds then blinks red until it powers down. The LAMP LED then begins flashing once every 5 seconds (doesn't flash while attempting to come up.)

Thx.

Geez, counted the green blinks - about 110 then red blinks start. the LAMP led starts it's once every 5 seconds routine at that point and continues until unplugged.
Sorry for the misinformation. Hopefully someone familiar with the cause will take the time to sort through my 3 posts. Thanks!

AndrewS222,
I have the same problem...I had the back of the TV off Sunday night and that rapid clicking sound on my set was the lamp attempting to light. There was a bright blue/white light that would flicker with the clicks through a couple of small gaps near the lamp. I suspect it's that ballast, but could be the main CBA board. For the repair kit, please reference earlier in this thread...1st post by brogers. The kit was $20 15 months ago and I'll order another one tonight for this POS!

Hey Roboguy,

Thanks for the response. Before ordering the kit, which it sounds like I have to do, one reason I posted for help was although I have seen a few models mentioned in this thread, I didn't see anyone reference the model number I have - PT-44LCX65.

When I went to the Panasonic parts site and entered my model, I lists many ballast related items but not the kit.

I trust you gleaned all that from my post and you're suggesting that this (universal) kit may be appropriate for my set?

I'm certainly not second guessing, I just want to make sure I give you the right info to work with.

Thanks again!

When I went to the Panasonic parts site and entered my model, I lists many ballast related items but not the kit.

I sometimes use Partstore (http://www.partstore.com) and plug in the part number. There is a tab called "See all models that can use this part."

Using this method, it appears the B2ZAZ0000020, D1F5100E0002, MA2Q73600L, K5D502BNA005, B1DEGQ000044 and F0CAH104A001 parts from the newer LSUC0022 LSQL1865-1 ballast repair kit are used on your TV, so this kit can be used.

I would not use the older original LSQL1865 kit, as the parts were originally for the older Panasonic sets.

Great, Thanks (Tomwil)

Hopefully when I open the set, the innards will somewhat resemble the excellent photos referenced in this thread. Otherwise, hopefully the kit comes with a sortof diagram identifying the location of the ballast - I'd hate to amputate the wrong leg.

I'll check the site you suggest (Partstore) and order today.

Thanks much.

Dad-gummit!

Hey Tomwil, your response to my post was very straightforward and I'm sure that half a brain is sufficient to decipher. Unfortunately, my brain is shot from just researching the fix for this thing.

If you would, please confirm my understanding of your response...

Since entering "LSUC0022" at the parts site and clicking the tab "See all models..." only showed the 50LC13, I'm guessing that you actually looked at the individual parts for MY (PT-44LCX65) model and compared to the contents of this (LSUC0022) kit, therefore you feel the LSUc0022 kit may work for my set. Confirmed?

Your message referred to "the newer LSUC0022 LSQL1865-1 ballast repair kit". And I'm guessing that it was NOT your intention for me to try to find a part with the numbers "LSUC0022 LSQL1865-1" as one search entry. Confirmed?

Finally, I think you (and previously Roboguy) was simply trying to tell me to get the LSUC0022. Do I have that right?

Thanks again!

If you would, please confirm my understanding of your response...

It is true that if you type in "LSUC0022" at that parts site, you will only get the matching model PT-50LC13. However, if you individually plug in the part numbers from the LSUC0022 LSQL1865-1 ballast repair kit, your TV model will show up. So, the LSUC0022 LSQL1865-1 ballast repair kit should work for your TV.

Please realize that there are two (2) versions of the LSUC0022 ballast repair kit, the original LSQL1865 with older parts made for the PT-40LC12 and PT-50LC13 sets, and the newer LSQL1865-1 with newer parts made for the PT-XXLC14 and newer sets. You might have to actually call the parts supplier to be guaranteed the newer version, as if you order just the LSUC0022 you may get either the older or newer version.

LSUC0022 LSQL1865:

http://www.elirion.net/~tomwil/Panasonic/PT40LC12a.JPG

LSUC0022 LSQL1865-1:

http://brogers.napalm.net/gallery/tv_repair/IMG_0014.jpg

The TV flashes green for 90 seconds and then flashes red every 5 seconds. I replaced the bulb, but the same result. On some boards, it was mentioned that replacing the thermal fuse may do the trick.

Or is it the ballast ?

Is changing the thermal fuse simple (is it similar to changing the house fuses or car fuses) ?

Any suggestions. Thanks.

Is is fairly simple to replace the thermal fuse. Thanks.

Is is fairly simple to replace the thermal fuse. Thanks.

As a test, I would just short out the fuse to see if that is really the problem.

See http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showpost.php?p=16209173&postcount=119

Panasonic 50lc13 been fine until recently. Bought bulb in housing kit and installed OK for about a week then turns off. Lights, power 1/sec temp 1/5sec. Bought ballast kit, installed except for transistor, resistor checked bad but still same result on for about 2 minutes then off to red power 1/sec lamp 1/5sec. Also get flicker in lamp (noticible brightness change for a split sec) random from 2 or 3 per sec to once every 5 sec or so. Started to replace transistor that seemed hottest but figured that might be hopeless. I didn't feel lucky. Checked via ohm meter from newly installed components to another part in circuit and checks out so solder not the problem. What Next???

I forgot, also replaced thermal fuse and blew out unit. All fans operating.

Lights, power 1/sec temp 1/5sec.

Your blinking sequence is not very well explained.

You can look at a chart here (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showpost.php?p=16395730&postcount=128) and see if you can match up your blinks to the chart to give us a better idea.

But here are a couple of possibilities:

1) Your bulb is defective, drawing too much current or getting too hot.
2) The Temperature Sensor on Thermistor 1 CBA is indicating an over-heating situation. It may be a bad sensor, and can be replaced rather cheaply.

Roboguy has kindly given a link to the PT-50LC13 service manual here (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showpost.php?p=16521960&postcount=135), which may help you in further diagnosis.

First checked the thermal fuse. It appears to be good. I tried to replace the ballast myself, but without any soldering experience, decided to get outside help.

A technician came and picked up the TV and replaced the ballast for $300. I know it may be excessive, but after checking around that was the best price I could get.

No one would do the installation when I said, I will buy the part.

Now the TV is working with full brightness.

I want to apologize for abandoning this thread. I changed ISP's and missed this message board when my email address changed. It's funny because I ran across my own thread researching another issue for a friend's PT-50LC14 Panny. I also wanted to give a huge thanks to tomwil and the others for contributing to this thread to help everyone out.

BTW my 50" Panny is still kicking. Yay!

Hello again all,

Well I finally received the ballast repair kit and, sure enough, it's the wrong set of parts.
I actually called the parts store, spoke AT LENGTH with the gentleman on the other end - explaining carefully that there's a LSQL1865 and there's a newer LSQL1865-1. Thanks Tomwil for providing me with that explanation.

The partstore, however, has no was of differentiating between the two since the only SKU they have in their database is LSUC0022. It is simply a matter of chance which one you'll receive.

... the part store has no WAY of...

Well I finally received the ballast repair kit and, sure enough, it's the wrong set of parts ...

In actuality, you can most likely use the parts in that older kit. The only part numbers that changed between the older and newer kits were the resistor, fuse, and transistor.

The fuse should work the same, whether old or new, because the rating is the same.

The transistor most likely will not be used, because your set uses at least 4 of them, and which one would you replace? To do it properly, it would be best to order all 4 transistors and replace all at the same time. That way you can specify what model number transistor to order.

The resistor has the same rating also, but Roboguy mentioned earlier in this thread that he thought the newer resistor was "beefier". I never got the newer kit to find out for sure.

I want to apologize for abandoning this thread ...

brogers, I am glad you have re-found your thread. Your initial posts helped start a whole process of repairing countless Panasonic sets, mine included. I admire your ability in finding out about the repair kit, and treading new ground on applying it to your set and documenting it for others to use. Very commendable!

I'm glad your set is still active and kicking. May it last you many more years!

Thanks again, welcome back, and best wishes!

Hey Tomwil,

Thanks for the follow-up. I'm really not sure what to do at this point - but it sounds like you would proceed with the received parts.
The TV is a pretty nice set and has been for a few years, but if I screw this up... well, what the heck. It's just a TV.

I used to be pretty handy with a soldering iron back in the ole Heathkit days, so I'll commence with the operation over the next couple days. Hope y'all keep your e-fingers crossed for me.

Success or no success, you folks are absolutely terrific for taking the time to contribute to this valuable service.

I replaced the ballast kit as recommended here. However, when I turned the set on, it goes off shortly after the bulb fires up (within seconds) and the temp light only blinks.

Any recommendations before I make a planter out of this donkey of a TV set?

All,

I'm embarrassed to say that I think it's the lamp assembly that's causing me all this grief.

After re-reviewing all the pictures, diagrams, and posts, I started taking apart the TV so I could install the Balast Repair Kit tonight,

After getting the unit out of the TV, I had to remove the lamp so I gould disconnect the wires that go to it. I thought it would be a good idea to check the lamp again.

I looked and looked and shone a bright light into it and noticed just where the filament enters te interior of the bulb, on its way to the center glass column, there appeared to be a small gap.

On closer inspection, there appeared to be some really fine specks of, what appears to be, molten wire, or the coating of the wire, inside the bulb.

To make a long story short, it looks like there's a break in the wire just where it exits the interior of the bulb. It's extremely difficult to see, so its hard to be abolutely certain, but I think that's what it is.

SO... do the symptoms that I've reported here still support what I now believe is the problem? The lamp?

Again, the blink codes (LEDs) are exactly as Tomwil provided in the error chart as Error 5 - Ballast Error.

AND, while the green power LED flashes (normal TV startup), I do hear the rapid relay-like clicking. I really thought that it was a Ballast problem, but now I really think it's the lamp.

Thoughts? Advice? referral to a good therapist?

I looked and looked and shone a bright light into it and noticed just where the filament enters the interior of the bulb, on its way to the center glass column, there appeared to be a small gap.

Your lamp might be OK. It is an HID type that has a gap, and the ballast sends the voltage necessary to create a spark across that gap, igniting the gas within the bulb.

If the ballast is defective, it could be creating a weak spark that is not enough to ignite the lamp, or keep it lit.

I would try replacing the ballast parts first. Although labor intensive, it would be the cheapest attempt to fix the problem. Replacing the lamp would be the expensive alternative.

I replaced the ballast kit as recommended here. However, when I turned the set on, it goes off shortly after the bulb fires up (within seconds) and the temp light only blinks.

Seems the temperature fuse or one of the temperature sensors might be sensing an overheating problem. Since it occurs within seconds, it could be that one of the fans is not operating. Or, one of the sensors is defective and can be cheaply replaced. You might want to check the connections first, before component replacement.

[QUOTE=tomwil;16568119]As a test, I would just short out the fuse to see if that is really the problem.

See
Hi there,

I'm totally new to this and I have ordered the ballast kit after reading this forum. (I had ordered the LAMP kit and replaced it but the TV still wasn't working so I figured its the ballast or the fuze.. or the filter). I did not count the number of lights --I should have read further into the forum-- and its too late now since I have the tv disassembled.

Anyway, my question:

I know what a fuse looks like but not familiar with (or how to SHORT) a Thermal Fuze. I figured it looks similar to standard fuze..

I took apart my Thermal Fuze and posted it to see which part exactly is the THERMAL fuse and how do I 'jump' it?

http://tinypic.com/r/2uh4j6b/5

and the back side

http://tinypic.com/r/21lsf12/5
(is that the 'fuze' and does that look like it's Broken in the middle?

**EDIT. I can't post URLs since this is my first post.. bummer..
how about **://tinypic.com/r/2uh4j6b/5
and **:////tinypic.com/r/21lsf12/5

As a test, I would just short out the fuse to see if that is really the problem.

What you have pictured there, is the Thermal Fuse Unit module that contains both the Thermal Fuse and the Thermistor 2 CBA (Circuit Board Assembly).

The Thermal Fuse is the cylinder object by itself attached with two (2) wires. The Thermistor is installed on that circuit board.

By all means, you only want to short out the Thermal Fuse, not the Thermistor. So, please leave that circuit board alone ... do not mess with it.

You can short out the two terminals that attach the Thermal Fuse with preferably a wire with alligator clips attached on each end. This will bypass the Thermal Fuse. Do this only for testing temporarily, not permanently!

I have circled the terminals that you can short in the attached pic that you provided.

Thank you TomWil. I understand now..
Appreciate your quick reply

Well after a couple of months of typical chaos at my house, a couple of posts here, and lot of reading of the forum posts on how to fix the PT-50LC13, ordering the repair kit, getting a soldering iron plus solder and a wick, digging out my multimeter, I tried the repair.

First, getting the ballast board out was really easy (just lots of screws). The PT-50 is much easier. Oh, and I did check the thermal fuse and it was fine.

I've soldered a little, Ive desoldered none. That was a lesson. The first hole I worked didnt look very nice after I was done, but the rest went smoothly as I got the technique and got the technique down.

I soldered in all the parts except for the power transistor (the usual they only ship one in the kit issue), the fuse (I tested it and it was good), and the D1301 diode which is a surface mount diode and I was skeptical of my skills of doing this.

I tried the set. No luck.

So I took out the old D1301 diode and put the new one in using the surface mount guide Tomwils had posted a link for (thanks!)

IT WORKED! For a minute :-( But the screen came on. Then the green light went red and then everything went back to the regular ballast error flashing sequence. WAH!

I read some more posts here about getting it working a little and about the D1301 diode (because at this point I assume its this diode thats been the culprit all along).

I figured that it must be one of two things: the soldering job, or the diode was oriented incorrectly. So heres a question.. if the diode had been oriented incorrectly would it have come on before like it did for that little time?

As for the soldering job, I attempted to redo it and as luck (MURPHY LUCK!) would have it as I was placing the diode with some tweezers I must have pressed too hard and the diode popped out and sailed off into oblivion. :-(

So I guess I will have to order another repair kit (unless anyone knows how to get this particular diode).

Meanwhile, I wanted to post here to get some clarification about the diode. Will it work if oriented wrong (even for a little while). What is the correct orientation, there was no lettering on the one I replaced (that I could see). I do see the line but I couldnt understand the post about what it should be pointed at. Anyone have a pic?

Also, would the rest of you agree that the culprit is the diode (since when i changed it out the set came on for that minute)? Or is there something else I should look for.

Well Im cheered by the fact that I got it to work once for a minute. I'm bummed that I'll have to probably order that kit and try again. I do have a better tip for my soldering iron now so at least doing this solder might be better next time.

Anyway, any insight anyone can provide would be great!

Thank you very much to this board and the people that frequent it.

I was able to get my TV working again after
1) I replaced the bulb and it was still flashing +lamp
2) Cleaned out the filter/dust.. inside
3) Took the Thermal Fuze to Radioshack and asked to borrow their tester. TF was fine.
4) all indicators (based on the error lights) point to the Ballast Circuit Board.
I just wasnt too skilled (I thought) to tackle that.

Anyway, I replaced all but items 3 and 5 (the Diode because I dont know which polarity and I figured if it doesnt work with the existing, then replace with the new and if it still does not work, then 'turn the diode' around) and item #5 because I have no idea which one to replace.

Good luck to everyone else out there. After taking the innards apart a few times to see if it resolves the issue, I guess you could say I am an expert now LOL.
Course, after all is said and done, I had 4 extra screws left. Ahh well. Tv works!

Special thanks to TomWil

Just read your post Feirlin..
I'm not expert but how about re-soldering the diode the 'opposite' way. Course, it may have already been fried but what else are you going to do while waiting for another repair kit... Worth a try huh? Sorry to hear things aren't going well for you.

Thanks to all who helped me try to fix this TV. Unfortunately, this TV is just not worth my money, and more importantly, my patience. I give up! I went to Best Buy and bought a 42 inch insignia LCD 1080p for 699 bucks, not much more than the cost of a couple of bulbs that this dog would have cost me in a couple of years. And the picture reminds me of the Panny when it was brand new...remember that feeling? It's much better and much brighter. The Panasonic always looked bright to me for only a couple days after a new bulb, but then it dulled slightly. For good measure, I spent an extra hundred for a 4 year extended warranty. Blu-Ray here I come!

I know that LCD projections go thru bulbs (at least now I do), but for what it's worth, Panasonic screwed us royally with this product, and for that I vow to never again purchase any product from this company. Furthermore, i'll tell everyone, everywhere when they broach the subject of purchasing a tV or other high ticket item.

Sorry for the rant! Y'all have been great and a big help. Thanks for that!

If anyone near NJ reading this board (and only this board) would like my Panasonic pt50lc13 to use for parts or to fix, it's yours for the taking as my thank you.

Joe

Thanks for the vote of confidence. Yeah, maybe i fried it putting it in the wrong way? If I only knew what the wrong way was! Anyone anyone? I did see that little line..

Okay..if someone could help me out here.. if you are looking down at the card, should that line be closer to the edge of the board or closer to the expanse of card?

Yeah, it also could have been my soldering job. Ive got a little dot maker tip that I will use for the next try. My previous tries were pretty ugly.

But Hey! Im feeling much more confident about the repair. Hey, wish I was in NJ and could pick up that other panny to work on. LOL! Im a glutton for punishment.

Hey All,

I was looking around trying to see if I could get that D1301 and found this site: http://www.bdent.com/search/part.jsp?partnum=2SD1301 .

Do my eyes deceive me or is that the right part? It says transistor. Is that a transistor? I think I saw people calling it diode and did the same. Honestly I cant remember my terms too much (its been years since my hardware class, Im in software).

I wonder if the other parts are there too. Anyway, if someone can confirm thats it please let me know so I can order those instead of LSUC0022.

Thanks!!!!!!!!
Melissa

I was looking around trying to see if I could get that D1301 and found this site: http://www.bdent.com/search/part.jsp?partnum=2SD1301.

No No No ... the D1301 is the component position id, not the part number. That part at that site is the wrong part.

The part number for D1301 is MA2Q73600L, and can be obtained from Panasonic or other part suppliers.

http://brogers.napalm.net/gallery/tv_repair/IMG_0008.jpg

Okay..if someone could help me out here.. if you are looking down at the card, should that line be closer to the edge of the board or closer to the expanse of card?

The orientation of that diode should have that line (cathode) pointing towards the circuit that has the 3 surface mount resistors in a row, or as you asked, closer to the edge of the board.

Thanks again! I went ahead and ordered another kit and did not order from that site I had posted the link to. The kit supplier says he is going to try to get some of those specific MA2Q.. parts in. I'll check panasonic.

AND YES I had the diode in backwards. DOH! But oddly enough it worked for that 1 time (or is that possible for a little while before it goes bye bye?)

Now that Ive got the new dot tip for my soldering iron and know which way to orient the diode Im chomping at the bit for the next kit to come so I can do it right! I feel cautiously optimistic that this will fix it.

Thanks for everyone's help, especially Brogers and Tomwil. I'll post my results when I give this another try.

I have been reading this forum for a while and didn't feel the need to post until now. I have a Panny PT-60LCX63 that I purchased in late 2004. Since then I have read about all the lawsuits and such and hoped I would never problems. March 22, 2009 a loud pop is heard and no picture. I had prepared for this and ordered a Philips (TYLA1000) bulb from Discount Merchant. From what I had researched I thought this to be the superior bulb. The bulb worked great until June (I did notice it would take a little longer to light than my original bulb though) and no picture again. I went back to this forum so I could order the ballast repair kit. Fixed the ballast and tried to fire up the bulb, nothing but the usual clicks. I decided to go to a local TV repair shop and they let me borrow a bulb that they use for testing, it was an Osram. The Osram bulb fired up the first time. I contacted Discount Merchant and was told there would be no way an Osram bulb would work and a Philips wouldn't. They assured me I had a defective bulb and sent me a replacement. I installed it and same problem. I then decided to go to a different TV shop and bought a genuine brand new Panasonic replacement. It worked! I don't know if it is just my TV or what, but the Philips bulb has been a nightmare. I'm currently trying to get my money back from Discount Merchant and my Panasonic TV lives on. I don't know if I ever needed a ballast, but in my case the more expensive Panasonic bulb worked and the less expensive Osram worked. Thank you to all and I hope my situation can shed some light to anyone else with the same problem. Good luck all.

Normally on DLP TV's are really common to having ballast issues, once you replace the lamp and it works fine for a week or 2. it will go out due to the ballast and not lamp. people tend to think that its the lamp because the tv is not working. the Ballast passes the voltage to the lamp so it can have a light source. normally when replacing the lamp you might wanna be thinking in replacing the ballast also if the TV is too old.
Where you can get a pretty good deal on lamp's and ballast's are in discount-merchant.com.
They have a wide variety of parts and lamps.

The PT-50 LIVES! WOO HOO! I've got lessons learned at the bottom. Heres the nitty gritty on the repair:

I got the 2nd repair kit last week and this weekend attempted the repair. I had replaced all the parts but had the surface mounted diode (D1301 on the board, MA2Q73600L going the wrong way (it worked for about a minute with it the wrong way before shutting down btw). Then I lost the little piece and had to order another kit.

This time I used more of a precision tip for soldering and put two dots down for this surface mounted diode to be cradled between. I got a friend to lightly hold down the diode with tweezers while I soldiered those points to the thing in the RIGHT WAY (the line on the diode lines up with the three resistors). A much better soldiering job. Turned it on and VOILA! It stayed on this time!

So using other people's lessons learned on here I slowly reassembled the panny stopping at major points along the way to retest and make sure everything was still working. It did, and Im now watching it and have been since the weekend. YAY!! And much thanks to tomwil and brogers for their posts. I definitely could not have done this without you! Now I feel an old hand at it so if anyone wants to shoot me questions feel free :-)

Lessons Learned:

1. The ballast board repair is not hard. I really think anyone can do it if they go slowly and follow the directions. I had little soldering experience and no desoldering experience and got through it. So dont give up!

2. From all the posts I have read it looks like people replaced the easy parts first from the repair kit but most did not get the tv running until they replaced all the parts. I get the impression that the part that a lot of people left off was MA2Q73600L which is very tiny and surface mounted (a real pain in the butt to desolder and solder). It seems like many people got their sets working after this diode was replaced and soldered correctly in. I am really convinced that this part fails more than anything else on these (well excluding the lamp).

3. Make sure this MA2Q73600L is oriented the right way and soldered on good or the set may turn on and off intermittently.

4. If you own the PT-50 the ballast board is practically right on the back of the set and easy to get at. You do not have to take out the tuner. You do still have to take off a lot of screws so label jars and put the screws in each so you know how to reassemble.

5. While you got it open do yourself a favor and dust it out. Its probably going to have families of dusty bunnys in there (mine did!)

THANKS AGAIN EVERYBODY!!
:D

I have the above mentioned tv and like everyone have gotten new bubs etc. this time when my tv went out it was not the bulb. Instead the tv would stay on for a bit with picture... usually only 30 secods or so, then it would shut off... light sequence and all.

Ok so i oredered the repair kit. Got everything changed... transistor included... I unno i just picked one of the 4 that didnt look as clean.

i do have the surface mount on the wrong way but will soon fix it, but when i turn the tv on now.... no picture. the bulb lights up and the board now buzzes at me beore it all shuts off again after 10 seconds or so....

this sucks! please help!

And since I havent gotten a chance to send thanks... Thanks to everyone who has kept these tv's alive for years!

I now have reversed the surface mount... still same problem

Look closely at the power, temp, and lamp LED's on the front and see if they flash in a sequence that matches troubleshooting section of the PT-50LC13 service manual.

Service manual link:
http://brogers.napalm.net/gallery/tv_repair/PT-50LC13.pdf

It may not be a ballast issue. When my ballast was going out it had slow startup times before the lamp would come on, but once it came on it would stay on. Before it quit it needed a good 2-3 minutes before the lamp would come on. These bulbs need a high voltage to get started and then operate on a lower voltage.

i turn it on, the bulb takes a couple seconds then fires up making a flickering sound. stays green for about 40 seconds then i get this sequece

power led- flashes red every second

lamp led- 1 red every 5 seconds

This is most closely related to error code 5
"ballast error"

Still with the buzing while the lamp is lit for about 40 secods... buzzing stops once sequence starts.....

this sound like a ballast issue still?

any ideas on how to find what is making the buzzing?



Thanks Brogers and everyone else...

Is the buzzing coming from the lamp?

no the buzzing is coming from the ballast board. I beliee itis on the side where the transistors are... but hard to find an exact point.

no the buzzing is coming from the ballast board. I beliee itis on the side where the transistors are... but hard to find an exact point.

Maybe one of the other transistors are bad? I suppose you could buy more from an electronics supplier like DigiKey or Mousers, but right now I'm just guessing what could be the problem.

I have a PT-50LC14. It is having the same issues that everybody is having. But my question is, will the repair kit work for the PT-50LC14? A lot of people in the forum have the LC13. If so what are the differences. I have the peice of crap in my garage for over a year. It's still new and I have a brand new $300 bulb sitting in a closet never used. I took it to a local Panasonic repair shop and the cost was to much for me to repair. I was about to take the damn thing to the dump and then I found the forum. If I can fix my TV or $30 bucks I will just so I can sell the damn thing.

ok so i have replaced all the parts and redone my solder points, and tried to bypass the thermal fuse, but nothing is working. still getting that buzzing sound and still the same light sequence.
ideas?
thanks

When you turn it on you hear a click then it goes from green then to orange flashing 5 times every 5 seconds and a second click but continues to flash orange 5 times every 5 second until I unplug it. Bought a new lamp with housing and cage tried that but did not work, called a tech, (which I was a bit uneasy because of the way he was handling the parts in the back of the tv) he said it has a bad power supply and it would cost me close to $400. which includes part and labor. After he left I opened up the back of the tv to try to locate this bad power supply and realized that some of the cables where disconnected upon further investigation one of the cables that was disconnected looks to be damaged and base on the schematic that was posted in this forum seems to be the p5302(20-pin connector) or cable that attaches to it. How and where can I buy this cable? I also found the power circuit board online for $80, but before I order I need to replace the damaged cable. I've checked in all of my local retail stores but no luck. I would like to try to fix this problem myself , I'm willing to learn, this was my first time ever dealing with a technician and my last.

Dose anybody know if the repair kit works on the PT-50lc14 Television sets. Seems like everybody has the LC 13.

Well I read through all the posts and thought I'd try the ballast repair fix. The set wouldnt start all the time. Sometimes it wouldnt come on then twenty minutes later it would. Each time the light would blink green slowly 4 or 5 times then blink faster for about 80 times then blink red.

I replaced all the parts in the kit and double checked all the solder connections. The tv worked for about 30 seconds and then back to the blinking red light. I took the set apart again and even changed the direction of the diode but no luck.

When turned on the light blinks slowly green 4 times then it starts to blink faster for about 80 times then blinks red. The bulb failure light blinks red once every five seconds.

Any suggestions?

The set is a PC-50LC13 and the repair kit is LSUC0022 the box says 2003 BALLAST REPAIR KIT



Paul

First thanks to all who have shared what they've learned about this unit - especially Tomwil, who seems to go above & beyond the call.

Here's my story. Bought the 50LC13 in Aug. 03. Worked fine for a couple of months and then quit. Replaced bulb to no avail. Had the BB extended warr. so local repairman came out. This was a head-scratcher at the time b/c he had never seen one like it. After a week or so he replaced the ballast. Everything fine until May 09 when the bulb went. Ordered replacement from River Valley Elec. Bulb only w/o the housing. Worked fine for 3 mos. and now getting error 5 (except green light flashes 90 sec. instead of 140 sec. b4 going to red flashing). No arcing noises or buzzing

I'm suspecting a bad bulb since ballast has already been replaced, and have contacted RVE. Will report back findings.

Sorry I haven't posted since late May, but here's the update. I had ordered a new ballast repair kit, 2 of the lamp power FET's (I still had 1 from 15 months ago) so I had all 4 needed. Replaced all the componets, except the fuse, (once again all seemed to check out OK), and started replacing the 4 FET's. It was pretty easy, as the 2 pairs are back to back with a large copper heatsink between them and they share 2 common screws. One thing I noticed was there was NO thermal compound on the back of the FET's and the heatsink was actually 2 pieces of copper...back to back, no thermal compound here either. I reassembled everything using Arctic Silver (computer grade thermal compound) between the copper sheets and at the back of the FET's and so far, it's worked fine.

brogers, excellent advice and can't thank you enough. I was able to fix my Panasonic (first POS from them) on my own for about $30.00. I was able to replace all of the components from the kit (LSUC0022 from partstore.com).
However, I do have one question if anyone has experienced..after I assembled the unit back and powered it...it work very well for about 2 hours. Then the display went bad and there were vertical lines one it. Frustrated, I turned it off and turned it back on the following day (this AM) it was fine. It has been working for the last 8 hours or so and I'm being hopeful...something I owe to the contributor of the thread...thank you all.
Paul.

This thread is awesome! It seems as though I chose the wrong tv 6 years ago. I hope I am not about to jinx myself but the original bulb has lasted me all this time. I just ordered the LSUC0022 ballast repair kit though hoping that will resolve my lack of video and blinking lights. For $28 i figured it would be worth trying. Kudos to Brogers for the input.

Hello everyone,

This is the first time ever that I have posted anything on a forum.. I felt so thankful to the helpful members here and couldnt resist posting on..

BTW, I have a 5 year old Panasonic PT50LC13, whose bulb was replaced 3 times on extended warranty and ballast 1 time. The extended warranty expired a few months ago. The TV wouldnt turn on in first week of September 2009. I called Panasonic support and they asked me to check the bulb. Pulled the lamp out and didnt see any signs of wear and tear. BTW, we use this TV very rarely - may be a few hours per week (max). Panasonic rep asked me to take the TV to a local service dealer, which I found out would cost a few hundred dollars atleast !

I checked google to see any advice and came upon this site. I am an electrical engineer by education, but have been in computer field for over 15 years. In essence, havenot touched a soldering iron for almost 20 years. Thought that ballast may be the culprit. Decided to get the kit and give it a try. Getting the board out of the steel enclosure was a painful effort. Changed all 5 components except for the transistor. The Diode orientation (as listed in this forum) was really helpful.

Turned on the TV and hurray .. it started working. SO far, I have used it around 10 hours.. couldnt say much... but if it lasts for 1 more year with our limited use of it... I couldnt be any more happy :-)

thanks a lot.. and keep up the great work ..

Kumar

Like many of you, I have a PT50LC13. Just recently, after turning on normally (solid green power led and good picture), about 2 minutes later, would loose picture (sound worked fine). The power led would flash red 1x / sec and the bulb led flash 1x / 5 secs. After reading ALL of the posts on here, and reading many regarding the ballast repair kit, I noticed one thing. Virtually everyone who does this repair, NEVER replaces the N-channel FET (transistor). Seems that most people that go this route never end up fixing the problem. What seems odd, is that there are FOUR transistors, and only ONE comes in the kit. ALL FOUR work together to drive the ballast, so it is very hard to determine which one to replace (in circuit). Even if a component tests ok, it could still fail under real load. I decided to order ALL FOUR transistors from Mouser.com (about 12 bucks). I have already removed the ballast, disassembled the heat sink and removed the 4 FET's. The heat sink assembly is fairly easy to take apart. It is a multi-piece assembly consisting of aluminum and copper, all held together with nuts and bolts. I decided to leave the small copper divider sink soldered to the board as it did not really get in the way. My removal technique was destructive, but the easiest. I simply cut the 4 FET's off the board, then unsoldered each leg and pulled out with a pair of needle nose. In a previous post, it was mentioned that the entire heat sink assembly uses NO HEAT SINK COMPOUND. Due to the FET's being installed "back to back", and the lack of good thermal conductivity (no HS compound). It seems plausible that this could be the "weak link" in the design of this ballast. I too am going to reassemble the entire heat sink and FET's using arctic silver compound. If the problem centers around the FET's running very hot due to poor heat sink assembly technique, we may have found a long term solution to this ongoing problem. My parts should be here by Oct 1st, so I will update this post after I get everything put back together.

While I am waiting for the parts to arrive, I am going to disassemble the heat sinks on the bridge rectifier and other diode assembly, and rebuild them using arctic silver. I think this will be relatively easy as the HS comes apart in a very similar manner. I will gently pull each component away from the heat sink and use a needle to deposit a SMALL dab of arctic silver behind each component, then reassemble.

Same boat as everyone else here. I read this thread and ordered my parts from PartsStore. When I ordered they were ready to ship whereas Panasonic said backordered till Jan 2010. A couple days later and no ship notification, PartsStore said they will ship in October. Yesterday the story was changed to Jan 2010.

So, where is everyone finding their upgrade kits? I'm not really sure I'm willing to wait 3+ months for this. I've already settled with the class action and I don't need much convincing to just cut my losses.

Any sources? Thanks in advance.

This thread already has some postings that list the parts in the kit. You can order most of them individually through any of the online electronics parts sites (mouser.com or digi-key.com)

After replacing the ballast components from the kit, my PT50LC13 is still humming along fine after a month of 11+ hours of daily use. I can't believe the issue was fixed for $39.00 when the repair shops were quoting any between $500 to 600+.

ppardesi

Gents,

while not a huge fan of Panasonic myself I got involved with a PT-50LC13 at my friend's request. The TV would consume lamps on the regular basis but the recent lamp replacement has failed to fix it. My friend Googled up this forum and this ballast thread and forwarded to me which has saved me a lot of troubleshooting time and aggravation. I'd like to thank the folks that have contributed valuable technical information to this thread and in return I'd be glad to post my own repair results in hopes that they would help somebody to save time and money.

As most everyone in this thread I have installed all of the components that came in the LSUC0022 kit except for one - the "transistor". The end result - a television set that has started from a "quarter turn" and at the moment is cheerfully running my son's cartoons since I don't have cable service in the garage.

I'll describe all of the components that came in the kit in the reverse order in my version of the "best of" show. :)

6. F0CAH104A001 (position C1330 on the PCB)
It's a metal film ceramic capacitor, 100,000pF.

IME unlike the drying out in time electrolytic capacitors, I have never ever seen a ceramic one just "go bad". Sure, they do explode once in a while (the old circa 1980s era AKAI liquid cooled amplifiers come to mind) and you have to scrape the black soot off the PCB while replacing its remains, but if it looks OK, then it is OK. I replaced it anyway "just because".

5. B1DEGQ00004 (positions Q1306,7,8,9 on the PCB)
It's not just a "transistor", it's a FET. I wonder why everybody's talking about four of those (including the parts list that came with the kit). In my case there were only three on the board. The fourth one was a diode. Sure all four have identical T220 cases, but only three had the proper three legs coming out of them. The fourth one had just two legs and was denoted by a diode symbol on the silkscreen.

Anyway, I didn't replace one of the three arbitrarily because it just made no sense as many participants have rightfully pointed out before. And since they were FETs and not regular bipolar transistors I had no way of testing them. Besides, I am extremely leery of testing the very sensitive to static electricity FETs since in the past I blew more of those than I am willing to admit. Sure the FETs have come a long way since 1970s when you couldn't touch the damn thing with bare hands and had to wrap up all three legs in Aluminium foil, but I elected not to touch it unless the repair would fail and I absolutely had to replace all three of those.

4. LSSF0013B50T (position F1301 on the PCB)
It's a fuse.

I did test it with the multimeter for the continuity and it checked fine, but I elected to replace it anyway "just because".

3. MA2Q73600L (position D1301 on the PCB)
It's a SMD diode.

I did test the old one with the multimeter prior to removal and it tested fine, but I replaced it anyway "just because".

2. D1F5100E0002 (position R1305 on the PCB)
It's a 10 Ohm ceramic power resistor.

Just like with ceramic capacitors, I have never ever seen a resistor just "go bad". Sure, they do burn out once in a while and you have to scrape the black soot off the PCB while replacing its remains, but if it looks OK, then it is OK. I replaced it anyway "just because".

and the winner i-i-i-i-i-s...

1. B2ZAZ0000020 (position D1315 on the PCB)
It's a power diode.

Several posters have mentioned above that they had found this particular component burnt and melted. Mine looked OK. However, in the P-N junction testing mode my multimeter showed infinity in both directions. Just for the hell of it I also tested it with the ohmmeter. It did show the expected infinity in the reverse direction but showed the unexpected ~1.2M in the forward direction. The new one passed the diode test normally and showed the expected several hundred kilo-ohms in the forward direction. This diode was clearly the culprit of the problem.

The part number search (KIV237 - for the old one, KIV269 - for the new one) did not yield any results but my gut tells me that this is a plain vanilla power rectifier which should cost less than a dollar from Digi-Key, Mouser or your other favourite electronic component supply house. Then again, the 5 bux + change that Panasonic wants for it, or better yet 4 bux from partstore.com is still a pretty good deal all things considered.

HTH
--
KBATTPO

I am not sure if there are different versions of the Ballast PCB, but mine absolutely has FOUR identical FET's 2SK2842. The PCB is marked as FOUR transistors Q1306,7,8,9.

[QUOTE=KBATTPO;17264299]


5. B1DEGQ00004 (positions Q1306,7,8,9 on the PCB)
It's not just a "transistor", it's a FET. I wonder why everybody's talking about four of those (including the parts list that came with the kit). In my case there were only three on the board. The fourth one was a diode. Sure all four have identical T220 cases, but only three had the proper three legs coming out of them. The fourth one had just two legs and was denoted by a diode symbol on the silkscreen.

Update: I got my parts today... I discovered there are actually FIVE FET's on the PCB. FOUR are on one heat sink (two on each side) and ONE is on the other heat sink with two diodes. I replaced all five... unfortunately I still have the same problem. Bulb lights for about 2 minutes, then shuts off with the standard blinking light sequence. My next attack with be the "power diode" mentioned in the previous posts. I am going to take a chance and get a generic high voltage diode from a local supply store and see what happens. I am thinking a 3 amp 1000V (just to play it safe). Anyone have a better suggestion?

Some thoughts regarding the ONE FET that is included in the Panasonic repair kit. The FOUR FET's (two back to back) are all part of one circuit. The only FET that works alone is on the heat sink with the two diodes (all three on one side). My best guess would be that since they send one in the kit, it should replace the one in the circuit that only uses one.... seems logical to me.

Another update: I just tried replacing B2ZAZ0000020 (position D1315 on the PCB), with a generic 3 amp 600 Volt power diode.... got absolutely no bulb light at all. Removed and installed original diode and bulb lights, but goes out a minute later. The original diode tests as faulty, using multimeter in "diode mode", I get infinity both directions. New diode tests normal. Not sure what to think at this point. Perhaps the original diode is some unusual type? Going to check the .01uF capacitor next and the SMD diode.

the hum is the fan

I purchased a 50-LC13 in 2002 and am on my third bulb.

Two weeks ago, I got the dreaded click off - with fast and slow red flashing lights...after waiting a minute or two, I would try to power on the television -on for a few - same thing, then third time was a charm, it would stay on for the balance of the evening. While waiting for the lamp to re-turn on, I would hear a bzzt.

This went on for three days - and then it stopped - The unit turns on and stays on. So strange. Based on this forum, I would suspect the ballast is going out, but seems ok now.

Any thoughts?

Jeez, I did not mean to kill the discussion!

I don't want to fix this TV....would anyone want to buy it? I'm in Washington State...please send email if you want to have a hack at it... skinnydmr@yahoo.com

So I bought this albatross 60LC13 with the problem everyone has. Bought at internet auction and thought I was getting a thin flat screen. Thanks for the discussion so far. It has been a help in locating a solution.

D315 is a SIDAC made by SHINDEGEN My part number was K1V23N. Others have reported it as K1V237, K1V269, and K1V66. Suspect the last one is a typing error. Found it by google K1V2 and K1V24 pooped up.

This will not test as a regular diode, polarity does not matter at all. It starts conducting in either direction when voltage is over 180V. A post on another forum said it started conducting when it reached 185V, but he still didn't know what it was. An ohm meter will never detect anything.

A SIDAC (not a SIDACtor) is a thyristor that at a certain voltage turns into a short till current stops or reverses direction. Since this is in series withC1330, they should both be replaced. Mine is a .22 instead of a .1 so there is variance in these sets. ESR was a little over 2 ohms which sems on the ify side for something that carries current.

ONSEMI has a MKP3V240 that sells for about 50 cents at digikey and a K1V24 at Mouser is about a buck. Decide for yourself if this is a suitable item. Lets face it half the posts here are technically wrong, though well intentioned.

My set still not working, haven't located a local SIDAC and my cost limit is about $3 on this turkey. Miy diode does trip out at about 200V in both directions so I am not sure that is the problem. More to follow when I have time.

My TV has been out for the better part of a month. I first figured it was the bulb. Then after some searching I found I had the infamous ballast issue. After a bit more searching I found this thread and figured the repair idea sounded great (cheap).

SO I ordered the kit from partstore.com. Found out it is back ordered. I've been searching everywhere and you can't buy the repair kit anywhere. One place I called to ask about it I got as far as saying "Part number LS"......."Nope don't have it".

Anyone have a secret stash?

The kit is likely a waste of time and money unless things have shorted out. D1301 seems highly unlikely to fail since this is just used as a kickback diode on the relay. Any diode with a 1A 100V or better will work for this. Unless the 10 ohm resistor is burned up, the FET likely won't be needed. D315 is available under the B2ZAZ0000020 number from multiple sources, but costs about $13 when shipping is added in. I should buy 50 of the generic type I mentioned and put them on ebay along with C1330 replacement. I would suggest a MKP polypropylene type capacitor for this that has a very low ESR < 1 ohm. Common polyester caps of this value will have an internal resistance of 15 ohms or more.

I took a grinder with a thin cutoff wheel and cut multiple square holes in the case over sections I am interested in. Board was removed for this operation. This gives me easy access to the board to change components and monitor test points.