I always thought that HDMI was too big to fit into a standard keystone jack... but I found this:

http://www.vpi.us/keystone-inserts.html

Is this for real? If I can do HDMI into a keystone I would much rather do that than the "decora" plates... I want to squeeze as much as I can into one single gang wall plate.

Will this work?

Too good to be true? Possibly.
HDMI has VERY strict impedence rules, and a coupler like that may very well break them.
Plus, of course, you'll need two of them: one to get into the wall cavity, and then again to get out again. I guess that's why the Decora plates are so expensive - they impedence match very well (and I like their 90-degree back-plate!)

However, for $7.50 each, it's probably worth the experiment. I'd buy them, but connect them outside of the walls first, using the three cables you were going to use between the source and TV/projector. Check for HDMI "sparklies" - if you don't know what they are, you'll know as soon as you experience them!

The best thing about these? You don't need to wire to fussy panel connectors.
The worst thing? Pulling ready-made $200+ cables throiugh walls, trying not to stretch them, let alone break them!

I have just purchased 2 of these HDMI Keystone Jacks:

http://www.trianglecables.com/hdmi-key.html

Here is the link for a Carlon SC300PRB Recessed Dual Voltage 3 Gang Old Work Plate
Along with this old work 3 gang box for behind my plasma (http://www.galesburgelectric.com/Carlon-SC300PRB-Recessed-Dual-Voltage-3-Gang-Old-Work-Plate.html) <- UPDATED LINK TO VOLTAGE PLATE 1/11/10

I will let you know how they work out.

Laters,
Jeff

Please do let us know. I am getting ready to install a plasma in the next 2-3 weeks and would love to go ahead and run 3 HDMI cables terminated like this. That recessed box is teh win!

I'm very interested in finding out how these work as well. The Keystone inserts seem to be a much better price than the decora plates that I have seen.

Crap! If these work, I'm gonna be irritated. I spent a week planning how to piece this together and a lot of my problem was that my two-port HDMI decora plate took up a whole slot (incidentally, Brayn, check out Monoprice for the decora plate, they're pretty cheap)! This would have been A LOT easier if I'd have been able to throw it in a keystone.

http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1339/1420858775_09cf52ca68_b_d.jpg

--Mav

OK well I got the inserts and tested them last night. Here are the results:

1) Do they fit a keystone insert? Yes. The HDMI port will be this way | not - when mounted in a normal wall plate orientation.

2) I connected my two HDMI devices (HD DVD and HD Cable) to my plasma out of the wall for testing - Monoprice port saver -> 30' Monoprice CL2 rated HDMI cable -> HDMI keystone insert -> 3' Monoprice HDMI cable

When I first looked at the picture it was blocking all over the place and the sound was dropping in and out. I thought to myself..oh crap they suck. However my keen troubleshooting skills found out that the issue was that the coax cable going into the HD cable box was loose (this only took 40 min :) ). Anyway I am happy to report that with the fixed coax cable everything is fine. I have no picture quality issues with either the HD DVD or HD cable using the hookups I listed above. I will post a picture of my mockup this weekend.

If anyone has any questions let me know and I will try and answer them.

EDIT -

I am only running at 1080i resolution not 1080p or 720p. I don't know if that makes a difference or not but I wanted to be clear exactly what was tested.

Laters,
Jeff

Yeah, the Monoprice ones aren't too bad but I was actually looking at staying away from the flexible extension cables. I've been trying to find cheaper outlets that have the 90 degree exit port. I've heard of some picture quality loss sometimes with those flexible extension cables which I would like to avoid if possible.

Jeff, that sounds great. I may have to try these out.

Okies time to bump this up with some pictures :) As promised here are the pictures of everything, including the super neat recessed panel:

http://www.madtomstudios.com/HomeTheater/SleepyHollow/wallplate3.jpg

http://www.madtomstudios.com/HomeTheater/SleepyHollow/wallplate1.jpg

http://www.madtomstudios.com/HomeTheater/SleepyHollow/wallplate2.jpg

http://www.madtomstudios.com/HomeTheater/SleepyHollow/wallplate5.jpg

http://www.madtomstudios.com/HomeTheater/SleepyHollow/wallplate6.jpg

Laters,
Jeff

I am building mine up this weekend and will post some pictures also. I ordered my HDMI keystones from the VPI inc link and they are not quite as nice looking as the ones you used from Triangle Cables. The VPI units are open in the front as opposed to having a piece of plastic the close it off. Not really a huge deal since they are going to be behind equipment and never seen, but I am anal I guess. :)


Also, I found a source for a double gang 12 port plate in one piece, so it will be interesting to see the differences. http://www.stayonline.com/detail.aspx?ID=5169

EDIT: They stopped carrying it. Looks like the same place at Parts express: http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=151-196

The same place also has the power inlet part of the powerbridge for $10 plus shipping if anyone is interested. http://www.stayonline.com/detail.aspx?ID=4421

I am so happy you posted the link for the wall box though. That thing is the ultimate flat panel wall plate IMO.

I looked at those 12 port plates as well but I already had the speaker wall plate. I just decided to heck with it and made it all match with the Decora style. The one thing I do like about the double gang plates is that the connectors are spaced out more and the whole thing is a bit more sturdy.

I look forward to your pictures. I like pictures :)

Laters,
Jeff

I will have to post pictures later, one thing I will say is that with the 12 port plates, I had to use a utility knife and cut about 1/8" off each side of the opening in the box for it to fit. Nothing major, but the extra space you mentioned comes at a small price.

I was just going to post this very same question about the HDMI inserts. The geniuses that did my a\v wiring left me with very little slack so I am going to do two keystone plates now.

Anyways, is there any kind of preference regarding speaker connections - banana vs. binding post?

thank you,
jp

Where you guys are getting the 6 port keystone decora style insert plate and 6 port decora style hole plate? I can’t find them in my local homedepot/lowes/radioshack? Any online place where I can get it for cheap without paying much for the shipping?

OK, here are some pics of mine.

Front before everything was in. My wife is a label freak and insisted on making them for me.
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b371/sherifftruman/100_3360.jpg
Back - Man, that F connector was kind of recessed.
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b371/sherifftruman/100_3359.jpg
OK, I promise the box is not crooked, I was snapping these shots pretty quickly as I was working. :o

I ended up doing 3 HDMI, the F connector for an antenna feed to the TV, The Toslink for digital out from the TV, S-Video for my Laserdisc player , Component and a couple of Cat 5 runs for whatever. I might end up putting a IR repeater at the top of the TV and I figured I could use une for that, plus I know some TV's already have Ethernet jacks and figure it will be more likely in the future.
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b371/sherifftruman/100_3383.jpg
Yes, more drunken camera work evidently.
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b371/sherifftruman/100_3384.jpg

I had to run it vertically due to framing constriants. Because this wall backs up to stairs the studs are close together at at irregular intervals due to extra framing to catch the landing. It was nice knowing I was hitting 4 studs with teh TV mount though.



Oh, this one shows how the 12 port plate does not quite fit in the box, problem was solved in 5 minutes using a utility knife.

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b371/sherifftruman/100_3362.jpg

Great pictures Lee! I still have not mounted my in the wall yet. I am waiting on the shelves for the equipment and one electrical circuit. GRRR! How are the HDMI inserts working for you? Any issues?

As to the question about the speaker connections. The ones I get can do both. I generally use the binding post option for the in wall side and the banana plug option for the speaker side.

I got my 6 port Decora plate from Smarthome along with some other items so I was not concerned about the shipping cost.

Laters,
Jeff

So far, the HDMI are wrking perfectly with no issues, but I have only used a 1080i source. As soon as Panasonic gets off their rear and releases their new Profile 2.0 Blu Ray, I will let you know how 1080p does.

Of course, I have what seems like 50 pounds of cable hanging off the back there, even with only a 6 foot run for everything. I had to end up being pretty carefull about how I bundled it all so the cables fed out at the right places and I screwed a deck screw into the stud and tie wrapped the wire bundle to that to give me some strain relief.

ARGH. That 3 gang old-work box and the hdmi keystones are exactly what i needed about 2 months ago when i hung my plasma. I wish i had seen this before.

Has anyone found HDMI keystone inserts with a locking nut?

I found this module, but it only works for "Euromod" wall plates in the UK.
http://www.aldoussystems.co.uk/acatalog/HDMI_Module-1.html
http://www.aldoussystems.co.uk/acatalog/AS-CRI-196.jpg

This lets you use HDMI cables with a locking screw, such as these:
http://www.gefen.com/kvm/cables/hdmi_dvi.jsp#hdmil
http://www.lindy.co.uk/hdmi-connector-lock/37399.html
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=181-729

So far, the HDMI are wrking perfectly with no issues, but I have only used a 1080i source. As soon as Panasonic gets off their rear and releases their new Profile 2.0 Blu Ray, I will let you know how 1080p does.

Of course, I have what seems like 50 pounds of cable hanging off the back there, even with only a 6 foot run for everything. I had to end up being pretty carefull about how I bundled it all so the cables fed out at the right places and I screwed a deck screw into the stud and tie wrapped the wire bundle to that to give me some strain relief.

Lee,

First thanks for pointing out the source. I used this setup for my ceiling mounted projector. I think the recessed jacks have a cleaner look than surface mounting everything.

I have a two and three meter cable with an inline booster in the middle. I found I needed the booster to get a reliable signal from my PS3 (even when hooking it up direct to the projector). I now use a Panny dmp-bd10 to watch movies and have both the PS3 and The Panny going through the switched circuit on my receiver over the 5 meters of cable with a booster in the middle and terminating with the HDMI keystone insert. I ordered a 1.5 foot cable from monoprice have no problems using 1080p.

Dave

Question to everyone -- Are you using the keystones/decora plates because it complies w/electrical code and provides a firebreak? Seems to me that it is always better to use one cable instead of three. It will save money and improve the quality of the connection. What is wrong with using a product like this?

http://www.datacommelectronics.com/product.php?ID=431

Question to everyone -- Are you using the keystones/decora plates because it complies w/electrical code and provides a firebreak? Seems to me that it is always better to use one cable instead of three. It will save money and improve the quality of the connection. What is wrong with using a product like this?

http://www.datacommelectronics.com/product.php?ID=431 People use the plates here to make a nice neat termination, finish it off so to speak.

In reality, what you linked to is perfectly fine to use, some people will say it's better since it's a solid line instead of having so many breaks.

Question to everyone -- Are you using the keystones/decora plates because it complies w/electrical code and provides a firebreak? Seems to me that it is always better to use one cable instead of three. It will save money and improve the quality of the connection. What is wrong with using a product like this?

http://www.datacommelectronics.com/product.php?ID=431

Nothing wrong with it as far as I'm concerned. Some people have those cable "pass through"-type plates on "both sides" (1 cable); some people like the "finished" look of the wall plates, so have plates on both sides (3 cables); and some people (like me) compromised and "finished it off" with a wall plate behind my A/V rack and used a "pass through"-type plate behind the TV (2 cables). Whether having 3 properly connected cables (rather than 1) affects the quality of a digital signal is still up for debate, I think; and the question of whether it affects the quality of an analog signal will vary wildly depending on things like the length of the run, the gauge of the cable, etc., etc.

--Mav

Question to everyone -- Are you using the keystones/decora plates because it complies w/electrical code and provides a firebreak? Seems to me that it is always better to use one cable instead of three. It will save money and improve the quality of the connection. What is wrong with using a product like this?

http://www.datacommelectronics.com/product.php?ID=431A couple questions, since I'm doing my in-wall wiring right now. Plus, I'm a strong proponent of the "one-cable" method . . .

• That looks like a manufacturer's site, not a retail site—where can you buy those recessed plates?
• Does anyone know if those are an acceptable method of passing low voltage cable into/out of sheetrock, according to the current National Electrical Code?

Thanks!

A couple questions, since I'm doing my in-wall wiring right now. Plus, I'm a strong proponent of the "one-cable" method . . .

• That looks like a manufacturer's site, not a retail site—where can you buy those recessed plates?
• Does anyone know if those are an acceptable method of passing low voltage cable into/out of sheetrock, according to the current National Electrical Code?

Thanks!

From forum sponsor Monoprice:

http://www.monoprice.com/products/subdepartment.asp?c_id=109&cp_id=10425

Scroll down to the bottom of the product list. They even have them in black.

Laters,
Jeff

From forum sponsor Monoprice:

http://www.monoprice.com/products/subdepartment.asp?c_id=109&cp_id=10425

Scroll down to the bottom of the product list. They even have them in black.

Laters,
JeffCool! Yes, of course, I'm a HUGE Monoprice fan! THANKS! Appreciate you taking the trouble to embed the link for me, as well! Even cooler . . . they even have them in GRAY! (My display-wall is 18% neutral gray) Woo hoo!

Where is you find that recessed plate? It is exactly what I have been looking for. Any help would be great Thanks

http://www.galesburgelectric.com/Carlon-SC300PRB-Recessed-Dual-Voltage-3-Gang-Old-Work-Plate-p-8606.html This is the recessed combo box. It was posted above, but is not easy to realize what it was. It is a Carlon proiduct so it is possible you can find it a a local place also.

I was surprised to find that the Menards store near me carried the Carlon SC300PRB recessed outlet. It's $9 more than the mail order site but with shipping it's pretty close to a wash so I picked one up the other day for my media room build out that's in process.

There's also the Arlington recessed TV BOX (http://www.hankselectric.net/detail.aspx?ID=1102) that's available. Not sure if anyone here has tried it though.

I also ran across this site (http://www.infinitecables.com/usa/av_wall-plates.html) that carries VGA keystone inserts that are dual-wide and fit into plates they carry. I may go that route for filling in the CArlon box.

Can anyone tell me what I'd need to do to insert the power outlet on the flat end and a 6 port keystone plate on the slanted end? I'm hoping I can use something like this as the power outlet:

http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=105&cp_id=10425&cs_id=1042505&p_id=4652&seq=1&format=2

I am using the HDMI inserts (http://www.vpi.us/cgi-bin/vpi/ky-hdmi-ff.html) in a 16-port patch panel (http://www.vpi.us/cgi-bin/vpi/pnl-ptch-ky-16.html). Total cost is $135.60, which is much cheaper than some pre-made ones (http://www.hdmipatchpanel.com/). To make the connections, I got several 1.5-foot color-coded HDMI cables from MonoPrice.

Hey guys.

I'm glad I stumbled across this thread after 3 hrs of searching! I'm about to mount a little 32" LCD to my wall, which will replace my old RCA 54" Rear Projection TV, which is still a 4:3. The RCA just takes up way too much space, and it doesn't support any decent high definition (480p, maybe?).

I absolutely LOVE the Carlon SC300PRB. However, I can't seem to find the decora keystone plate that Jeff used. It seems Leviton MIGHT have one, but I'm not sure.

Where did you get the double gang decora outer plate? Is that a standard item at your local Home Depot?

Finally, does anyone know if an HDMI 1.3 cable exists with right-angle ends, approx. 8'?

Thanks for everything, guys!
DaleyKD

Where did you get the double gang decora outer plate? Is that a standard item at your local Home Depot?Both Lowes and Home Depot carry Decora style double plates. Although I believe that Lowes only has the "mid-size" plate - which still fits.

Yup I got mine at Lowes.

Laters,
Jeff

This HDMI insert costs $3.79 (versus $7.50 for VPI's).

http://www.microbarn.com/details.aspx?rid=102164

Great thread. Curious about the proximity of the voltage outlet immediately adjacent to the low voltage keyports. From what I've read, you want to keep these types of circuits a minimum of 12" apart.

that said, has there been any issues with the setup being like it is? Thanks.

Mac

I certainly have seen no problems with my setup. Since most of the cables (RG6 and HDMI) have sheilding, it should elimiate any problems. ALso, while12" seperation is a good rule of thumb, in practice, it is not usually a problem unless the wires are right on top of each other.

I have not had any issues with my setup either. Everything is green over green here.

Laters,
Jeff

FYI: Leviton has a 690-W recessed keystone and power doublegang that is less space consuming and fits my space a bit better (using omnimount ucl-x mount)

http://www.hankselectric.net/images/690-W.jpg

OK, here are some pics of mine.

Front before everything was in. My wife is a label freak and insisted on making them for me.
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b371/sherifftruman/100_3360.jpg



Where did you get that 12 port keystone plate?

Where did u find that toslink keystone? I have checked at least 10 sites that came up on google.

Hi all,

Are any these HDMI Keystone inserts 1.3a certified?

Mitch

Hi all,

Are any these HDMI Keystone inserts 1.3a certified?

Mitch

The connector of an HDMI is not what makes the connection 1.3, it's based on the cable itself and the device, not the 19 pin connector/passthrough coupler. No worries the ones you find for sale will work fine! :D

I called a local home theater store to see if they had them. He said he did but they were not certified and he did not know if it would work with 1080P. Was he just misinformed? Also, some websites say the ones they have are certified and some do not say that. I am very new at this so sorry if I am belaboring the point.

Thanks again,

Mitch

makman,


Think about it.... a coupler is nothing more than then the ends of a cable. 1.3 has NOTHING to do with the end/fitting what so ever.

The whole thing about 1.3 1080 p/i has to do with the device output and the cable structure (not the fitting/end) in conforming with the 1080i/p signal within compliance for a distance of length having more to do with loss of signal than anything else. Not many HDMI mfg's will rate their cable longer than 4-5 meters to stay compliant with 1.3 signal requirements. Don't trust a 6m or longer cable to be fully 1.3 compliant.

The fitting/end has ABSOLUTLY NOTHING TO DO WITH 1.3 COMPLIANCE,,,, I PROMISE.. Check the HDMI site to make sure I'm right if you wish, but you really are putting WAY too much on a fitting/wall plate/keystone.

I bought two hdmi keystone jacks from firefold (http://www.firefold.com/HDMI-Keystone-Coupler-White-P3518.aspx) about a year ago and I have never had a single problem. I am using three blue jeans cable Belden Series-1 cables in sequence, 9 feet in all from my receiver to my LCD. They are expensive but they work and they were the only ones I could find at the time. Firefold also has some recessed decora plates that I had to use behind my rear surround wall mounted speakers. I also have a 25 ft run from my HTPC in my office to my home theater that I decided to not use the hdmi keystones with. It is just one straight cable from the PC to the receiver. The keystones may work, I just happened to buy a cable that was the perfect length.

EDIT: also I am running at 1080p with the keystones.

Great, thanks all!

Mitch

I am using the HDMI inserts in a 16-port patch panel Total cost is $135.60, which is much cheaper than some pre-made ones. To make the connections, I got several 1.5-foot color-coded HDMI cables from MonoPrice.

Erik ,

I find that interesting.
Can you tell me why you're using a patch panel ? Brodcast?

Erik ,

I find that interesting.
Can you tell me why you're using a patch panel ? Brodcast?
Welcome to the forum. :)

It is for home use. I currently have 8 HDMI sources and 5 HDMI sinks on the patch panel. At one point, I had 8 HDMI sinks. I mostly use just 2 sinks.

My AV receiver has 2 HDMI inputs and 1 HDMI output, but that is too few for me, and some sources have handshake problems with it.

First of all, this is a gem of a topic, exactly what I wanted for my Flat Panel.

Couple things to note... In the Chicago metro burbs area (Cook, Kane, Dupage county) - you can't use the Carlon (High Voltage - Part #'s B114R or B120R) PVC handybox thing, local shops don't carry it due to not meeting building code or whatever it is. I called Carlon Tech support, they said you can use any standard handybox on it... just as an FYI.

This is the more major part - I ordered the Flat HDMI cables from monoprice - and the cables are very good quality - except they don't fit with the Recessed plate SC300PRB (the Carlon one referenced earlier in the thread). The problem is the HDMI keystone + the longer connector on cable + the recess of the plate makes it impossible to anchor the keystone wall plate to the SC300PRB.

I have done some searching and have been unable to find any keystone HDMI connectors that do a 90deg angle, does anybody know of any?:confused:

Thank you, again, for this thread - it's really given my setup a clean finished look (once I get these last couple bugs worked out).

I have done some searching and have been unable to find any keystone HDMI connectors that do a 90deg angle, does anybody know of any?:confused:
Are these small enough to fit behind the keystone connector?

http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=104&cp_id=10419&cs_id=1041907&p_id=3733&seq=1&format=2

http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=104&cp_id=10419&cs_id=1041907&p_id=3850&seq=1&format=2

http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=104&cp_id=10419&cs_id=1041907&p_id=4860&seq=1&format=2

http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=104&cp_id=10419&cs_id=1041907&p_id=4859&seq=1&format=2

I ordered 3 of the swivel ones from monoprice...I will see how they work (I can't link yet due to # of posts)

Some good information here guys, thanks!

Lots of good info in this thread, thanks!!

Great thread. I was thinking of going the keystone wallplate route and then I ran across this thread and it definitely confirmed what I was planning to do.

I also plan to go the 12-port way with 2 component, 2 hdmi, 1 s-video, 1 coax (for antenna to tv). I'll post pics when I get everything on the wall.


Jeff, did you get your wallplate from Lowe's or from Smarthome. It seems like you said in one post Lowes and in another post Smarthome.

I purchased the holder for the keystone inserts from Smarthome and the dual gang wallplate to cover them from Lowes. The cover is just a standard light switch or outlet cover. Hope that clears it up for ya.

Laters,
Jeff

Im getting ready to install a wall-plate setup, but I recently discovered (via handy studfinder) that my living room wall has a fire stop about 4 feet up - directly between the bottom wirebox and the top wirebox! Note: For those not familiar - a firestop is a piece of wood or insulation installed in your wall that prevents the space between the studs from turning into a chimney if there is a fire. In my case, the firestop is a horizontal 2x4 nailed between the two studs.

I called the fire marshal and he recommended getting some fireproof caulking for sealing up any holes I drill in firestop. However, I still haven't decided how I'm going to get the wires through the firestop. I'll have to cut a hole in the drywall to access the firestop, and then cut through the firestop, and then patch everything back up. Arrgh! Adding caulk and sealing the wall back up basically makes the wiring job permanent, which is frustrating if I want to add some other wires later. Here's a picture of what im talking about:
http://bkinnaird.googlepages.com/firestop_small.png

The back of the wall that the tv is going on is shared with a wall in my office (actually in a closet in the office), so I was thinking about putting an access panel in the closet so I can get to the firestop from the other side.

Has anybody else had to deal with the firestop situation, and if so, how did you get around it?

Im getting ready to install a wall-plate setup, but I recently discovered (via handy studfinder) that my living room wall has a fire stop about 4 feet up - directly between the bottom wirebox and the top wirebox! Note: For those not familiar - a firestop is a piece of wood or insulation installed in your wall that prevents the space between the studs from turning into a chimney if there is a fire. In my case, the firestop is a horizontal 2x4 nailed between the two studs.

I called the fire marshal and he recommended getting some fireproof caulking for sealing up any holes I drill in firestop. However, I still haven't decided how I'm going to get the wires through the firestop. I'll have to cut a hole in the drywall to access the firestop, and then cut through the firestop, and then patch everything back up. Arrgh! Adding caulk and sealing the wall back up basically makes the wiring job permanent, which is frustrating if I want to add some other wires later. Here's a picture of what im talking about:
http://bkinnaird.googlepages.com/firestop_small.png

The back of the wall that the tv is going on is shared with a wall in my office (actually in a closet in the office), so I was thinking about putting an access panel in the closet so I can get to the firestop from the other side.

Has anybody else had to deal with the firestop situation, and if so, how did you get around it?
I had to do this at my house. Although in my case I had to go through a bottom plate, header, three more 2x4s and then the actual top plate of the wall! To do this I simply cut out a large section of drywall, drilled my holes (large enough for additional wires), ran my cables, left a pull string in the wall for additional cables, and then stuffed insulation in the hole in the top plate. This is how all the other wire runs were done in both houses I have owned with no issues. So later if I need to pull additional wiring I pull out the insulation, use the pull string to run the wires and then stuff the insulation back in the hole.

A company called Vanco Inc has a 4-gang recessed box that I'm thinking about ordering (model TVB613). Hometech.com has it, and you might be able to find it locally too.

You could also try to put a piece of metal conduit in when you have the wall open and then stuff each end with fire caulk or rock wool insulation at the box locations. That way you will have access in the future to remove it and redo.

Im getting ready to install a wall-plate setup, but I recently discovered (via handy studfinder) that my living room wall has a fire stop about 4 feet up - directly between the bottom wirebox and the top wirebox! Note: For those not familiar - a firestop is a piece of wood or insulation installed in your wall that prevents the space between the studs from turning into a chimney if there is a fire. In my case, the firestop is a horizontal 2x4 nailed between the two studs.

I called the fire marshal and he recommended getting some fireproof caulking for sealing up any holes I drill in firestop. However, I still haven't decided how I'm going to get the wires through the firestop. I'll have to cut a hole in the drywall to access the firestop, and then cut through the firestop, and then patch everything back up. Arrgh! Adding caulk and sealing the wall back up basically makes the wiring job permanent, which is frustrating if I want to add some other wires later. Here's a picture of what im talking about:
http://bkinnaird.googlepages.com/firestop_small.png

The back of the wall that the tv is going on is shared with a wall in my office (actually in a closet in the office), so I was thinking about putting an access panel in the closet so I can get to the firestop from the other side.

Has anybody else had to deal with the firestop situation, and if so, how did you get around it?

If those 2x4s are not firebreaks, but rather structural, you can use a long flexible drill bit (Greenlee makes them and they should be in the electrical section of Homedepot) to pass through them and leave your wall in tact.

firebreaks are randomly put in the wall at different heights and are ussually only on exterior walls and garage walls....

from my experience

OK, I have gotten a couple of questions about the actual Toslink Keystones. I thought they were in this thread but I guess they are not. I got mine from Video Products Inc. www.vpi.us they have lots of other stuff as well.

Here is a link to their page of Keystone inserts.

http://www.vpi.us/keystone-inserts.html

They are also availabe a few other placs around the web.

VPI also has a few different Powerbridge systems with jacks already mounted if you want to go that way.

http://www.vpi.us/wp-power.html




I just noticed an ad here at AVS from a company called www.firefold.com that also has Lots of Keystone stuff, including theToslink. I have nver ordered from them though.

While looking for some info about mounting and connecting a new 55" tv i came across this thread and forum. Both are great, thanks for the information.

I hadnt considered adding the electical socket to the plate also but that will solve a problem i was going to have. I am mounting a 55" Samsung LED using their ultra slim mount that mounts the TV flush against the wall like a picture. My question about that electrical socket is what about a surge protector? What good is it to have that plug there if you dont want to plug any AV equipment straight into it? Thanks in advance for the replies and again for all the great info in this thread.

Well, many people are doing the power bridge thing where you can supply power rfom a surge protector into a remote power inlet, which in turn powers the outlet behind the TV.

I just have a a couple of quick questions! Where did you get the 12 port plate, connectors and labels. And how much did it run you?

The place I got the plate from does not carry it anymore, but looks like Parts Express does. http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=151-196 I updated the original post also.

The labels we made on a Dymo label printer and I honestly can't remember the cost, maybe $60 total for the plates and jacks. But if you have a situation where you can see behind the TV it looks so much better than just having cables run out the wall. ALso, it is nice if you might need to do hookups in teh future, as long as you run the cable in teh wall, you can hook it up pretty easily without removing the TV from the wall.

While looking for some info about mounting and connecting a new 55" tv i came across this thread and forum. Both are great, thanks for the information.

I hadnt considered adding the electical socket to the plate also but that will solve a problem i was going to have. I am mounting a 55" Samsung LED using their ultra slim mount that mounts the TV flush against the wall like a picture. My question about that electrical socket is what about a surge protector? What good is it to have that plug there if you dont want to plug any AV equipment straight into it? Thanks in advance for the replies and again for all the great info in this thread.

Leviton makes a few different surge protector receptacles that you could insert into the Carlon panel (or any box). Check out the Leviton 5280. I found mine at Home Depot (not allowed to post links yet:mad:)


I also use a small Monster HTS 350 surge protector, which mounts flat to the wall and plugs in the wall outlet with a rotating, right angle plug and has two side-mounted outlets. My plasma tilts forward, so I mounted the HTS 350 towards the top of the TV where there is more clearance. Got mine at Best Buy (overpriced but they price-matched Amazon)

I wish I had seen the Carlon 3-gang recessed wall plate earlier. Would have saved me some headaches and head-scratching. I did use a Leviton recessed entertainment box behind my component console. That allowed me to make a large enough cut-out in my wall to fit a drill inside and punch a hole down through the floor plate (and some brick!) and into my basement to run cables. The box covers the large hole nicely and gives me spaces to add an outlet and 2 6-port keystone plates.

http://www.hankselectric.net/images/690-W.jpg

This certainly fits my needs better. Does anyone know if it works with the 5280-W (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006I33Y6/)

This certainly fits my needs better. Does anyone know if it works with the 5280-W (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006I33Y6/)

The answer is no :(

Now I need something just like that wallplate with AC power and 4-keystone slot. Anyone have ideas?

In a few of these pictures, I notice 4 or 6 speaker posts (plugs?) that have been installed with the HDMI/Component/SVideo/Ethernet for behind a Flat Screen. Why?

I am running my R/C/L front speaker wires through the walls to plates behind the speakers, not the LCD. Is there any reason to wire speaker wire to my flat panel????

Great thread, thanks for all the info. I'm planning to do the power bridge method with a Sanus ML11 and a new 46" Panny G25. Running 1 HDMI, 1 Coax, and 1 ethernet. Hopefully it will work ok.

Erik

Thanks for the link, VPI, Firefold and PE were all out of stock, I just ordered three of these from Microbarn.

For anyone who is interested in a keystone hdmi insert with a bendable extension:
http://www.hometech.com/hts/products/wiring/wall_connect/quickport/inserts/va-820490.html
They are a little pricey but one of the few keystone solutions that would actually work well with very heavy duty cable that don't bend easily.

Does anyone know of any HDMI Keystone jacks that are build with a right angle for behind the wall?

Has anyone tried to used the Pro Wire MP-8 In-Wall Media Panel (http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=261-280&FTR=media%20panel&CFID=32107459&CFTOKEN=81691018). I was thinking of doing a complete setup of all the connections from my TV to the panel. This way I would have to connect everything I need to the panel.

http://www.parts-express.com/images/item_large/261-280_L.jpg (http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=261-280&FTR=media%20panel&CFID=32107459&CFTOKEN=81691018)

Does anyone know of a shource for black HDMI keystone inserts? All I can find are white or a few ivory.

Thanks, Pete

From forum sponsor Monoprice:

http://www.monoprice.com/products/subdepartment.asp?c_id=109&cp_id=10425

Scroll down to the bottom of the product list. They even have them in black.

Laters,
Jeff
Jeff, is this where you purchased the wall plates that you posted in your pics? I like your setup the most, nice pics, very professional looking.

Lowe's has HDMI key stones for about $13. The only problem is the two I had stopped working. I'm not sure if they're not compatible with HDMI 1.4 or what the problem is.

This thread has been very helpful! I've had my TV off the wall and contemplating my options for 4 days, but this helped me decide what to do!!

Does anyone know if the flexible HDMI keystone connector below is HDMI 1.4 (High Speed/ 3D) compatible?
http://www.hometech.com/hts/products/wiring/wall_connect/quickport/inserts/va-820490.html

This thread has been very helpful! I've had my TV off the wall and contemplating my options for 4 days, but this helped me decide what to do!!

Does anyone know if the flexible HDMI keystone connector below is HDMI 1.4 (High Speed/ 3D) compatible?
http://www.hometech.com/hts/products/wiring/wall_connect/quickport/inserts/va-820490.html

\You should give them a call and ask. They people at Hometech are very friendly and have a small store in Cupertino,CA.

I am using these and they have been working great, but I also only using HDMI 1.3+Ethernet.

I attempted many media boxes, special wall plates, various keystone solutions, etc to manage all the cabling for our new PN64D8000. Nothing would do the trick. Staring at the wall one night, sipping on a glass of wine, it occurred to me that what was really needed was a patch panel behind the TV. See the attached pdf slide show for my story, problem and solution to the wiring mess.

I did consider installing a simple box in the wall for aesthetics, but I was already pushing the limit by wedging a 3.5" patch panel into a 3.25" wall space.

The ideal solution, if anyone actually made such a thing, is to have a metal box that fits between 16" on-center studs, has a vertical opening of 8"-10" and has a removable keystone patch panel at the top equivalent to the version I used in my posted solution. Of course it would need to be no more than about $30. It seems that would be the killer solution for many who have posted to this thread.

\You should give them a call and ask. They people at Hometech are very friendly and have a small store in Cupertino,CA.

I am using these and they have been working great, but I also only using HDMI 1.3+Ethernet.

Has anyone found out yet if these really will pass HDMI 1.4 / 1.4a? They're way too expensive to get it wrong (I need 4, so this is going to set me back $100 just for HDMI keystone ports!). :eek:

If I don't hear from anyone maybe I'll try calling myself in the morning...