LOVING this TV btw. After lots of playing around with settings, I feel that the PQ now rivals my plasma.

.

awesome pics man...i hope my exchange request goes thru!!!

i cant wait for the 67" this tv looks great and should be a nice step up hopefully from my older mits.

After calibrating my newly arrived 750, I watched a little bit of Ghost Rider and noticed that objects near the top black letterbox bar seem to bleed over into the bar. It must be some type of reflection or halo but it is very annoying to say the least. Has anyone else experienced this? Add this to a growing list of issue I'm having. I also have a tilt on the bottom of the screen and convergence is off all over the screen except within a small area near the middle of the screen.

I still need help navigating the service menu to see the viewing hours. Nothing on the opening menu specifies this option. I don't want to start guessing where it might be and screw something up. Thanks!

I was able to purchase the HL61A750 on Saturday at Buy.com for $1829.99 - $30 and an additional 3% cash back by using their credit card. Paid $58.92 S&H, and no sales tax. Saw it's up to $2194 today!

I don't know if they mis-marked the price or what, but I jumped on it in a hurry.

Best price I've seen in DFW market is $2199 at Circuit City.

Best deal around?

Wade

After calibrating my newly arrived 750, I watched a little bit of Ghost Rider and noticed that objects near the top black letterbox bar seem to bleed over into the bar. It must be some type of reflection or halo but it is very annoying to say the least. Has anyone else experienced this? Add this to a growing list of issue I'm having. I also have a tilt on the bottom of the screen and convergence is off all over the screen except within a small area near the middle of the screen.

I still need help navigating the service menu to see the viewing hours. Nothing on the opening menu specifies this option. I don't want to start guessing where it might be and screw something up. Thanks!

can you post pictures of this type of reflection you are experiencing? Last years set had severely bad reflection issues...here is my current set that i am trying to get exchanged from samsung...they already rejected the first attempt by ECR saying that this sort of problem needs a new DMD board....absolute load of $hit!!

http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h221/wopino/Picture016.jpg

That is not correct. It is fact that the 750 has a 450CD brightness while the bulb set 650 has a 650CD brightness. This is out of the samsung service manual so not only is it brighter but its a lot brighter.

You can also see the review for last years set (6187) where it basically says the LED doesnt touch the usually high rated Bulb models.

http://hometheatermag.com/lcds/208hdface/index1.html

Please reread what I was saying. It WAS correct that people weren't giving any objective evidence and just saying that one looked brighter than another on the showroom floor. Information like you mention is objective evidence and deserves consideration.

I have a few questions for you. Is the information you quote from 650 and 750 Samsung service manuals? If so, what other specs (or information for that matter) are present that perhaps are not mentioned on the website? Also, how do they measure brightness? Output of the source (bulb or LED) or outputs of the actual sets? This is important.

After calibrating my newly arrived 750, I watched a little bit of Ghost Rider and noticed that objects near the top black letterbox bar seem to bleed over into the bar. It must be some type of reflection or halo but it is very annoying to say the least. Has anyone else experienced this? Add this to a growing list of issue I'm having. I also have a tilt on the bottom of the screen and convergence is off all over the screen except within a small area near the middle of the screen.

I still need help navigating the service menu to see the viewing hours. Nothing on the opening menu specifies this option. I don't want to start guessing where it might be and screw something up. Thanks!

There was a post much earlier that listed all the non-advanced options in the service menus. You might try to find that. I don't think just choosing options once you are to the main menu is going to mess up anything. I'd check but I don't feel like resetting all my input settings ;) Besides, this TV just came out so I'm not sure why so many people want to go into the service menu just to check hours--the LED will last a while ;)

I have seen the bleed over on the top letterbox bar. I know it doesn't happen all the time, and I've been monkeying with settings and can't remember the last time I saw it. I've watched a lot in a dark room (although I've added an IdealLume backlight in the last few days). Now that I've seen someone else mention it I'll keep an eye out for it and see if I can determine a pattern. It is not anything like the picture posted above from the issue with last year's sets.

I have an HTPC with DVI. I tried connecting a DVI-to-HDMI cable to both the HDMI2 and HDMI/DVI3 connectors and noticed that they give me different options for P.Size and picture in general. I see some saying that WidePC gives a 1:1 pixel mapping but this gives me a 1/2" border around the picture. If I use WideTV it overscans a lot. How is this different than 16:9? So many options.

You need to use the HDMI/DVI3 and edit its name to be "PC" for the correct settings. Yes WideTV overscans. I think every Samsung DLP in 1:1 mode does this. If you don't like that, you can monkey with the drivers and come up with a custom resolution. If I have to actually see the edges of the screen on my HTPC, I temporarily switch over to WidePC.

I've got a question regarding using HDMI or VGA for my xbox 360. I learned from experience the problems the A61750 has with 1080p over component and have read that 1080p is mostly supported through VGA or HDMI. My question is which would look better? Does anyone here have first hand experience with both? Some have claimed the VGA washes out colors while others have said that is BS, I trust you guys so I'm bringing this up here.

VGA won't wash out colors. That has to do with IRE and what is standard on the TV. I ended up choosing the "standard" setting on the 750. You might need to use one of the other choices for black level. They fixed any issues with VGA (which I don't think this TV had anyway) with an Xbox update last year. There was a link to an article posted that explained it pretty well, you might be able to google 360 and VGA to find it. My 360 doesn't have HDMI as an option, but I'd probably use VGA anyway because I'm already using all my HDMI for DirecTV, HTPC, and eventually PS3.

Comparing two uncalibrated TVs only tells you how two uncalibrated TVs compare (DUH!), but I don't see the value in such a comparison.

Well, I think the value in that is that most people will not get a professional ISF level calibration of their sets. So, comparing two sets with only adjusting user controls could be quite useful in telling you which one has a better picture with the controls you are able to adjust. It may very well be that a professional calibrator could get the other set looking better, but again, most people don't do that.

Also, a lot of people post here that they've "calibrated" their sets, without making the distinction between simply adjusting user level controls like brightness and contrast (hopefully at least with a test disk like DVE), and then doing an actual calibration with a colorimeter or spectraradiometer to adjust greyscale and color decoding to a standard. I would call the first method more like "adjusting" your set, and the second method a real "calibration".

I would really like to see some pros post some feedback on the setup and calibration of these sets. There are so many user level controls, albeit bizarrely named and understood like "flesh tone", that interact, that it seems like it would be difficult to do a real calibration. I guess most of the things would just be turned off and left off, and then do a service menu calibration from that known state.

Also, I haven't updated my firmware yet, but i just unzipped it onto a USB key. I was looking at some of the files, and was surprised to find one named run.sh. Looks like the TV runs some sort of unix or Linux based operating system. Cool! I wonder if it would be possible to get to some sort of shell or terminal in the TV. Who wants to start hacking their set?

This is my first post, so please refer me to the right place to look if this isn't it.

I want A 50 inch HDTV that can do 3D. I'd like USB 2.0 and HDMI 1.3, but these aren't showstoppers.

Also, I don't think I want to change bulbs or color wheels. But since this will be my first HDTV, I'd appreciate anyt advice.

I've been looking at the X87 and X89, but I can get the 650 for about the same price.

Here's the bleed over I was describing above. Notice the mirror image of the headlights in the black bar. Kinda hard to make out here but it is very noticable in person. Try standing up and looking down at your monitor and you should be able to see it much better. I think I'll just call Crutchfield and have them send me another one.

Turls,

I wanted to check the number of hours because I suspect my set may have been used. The factory tape appears to have been removed and reapplied and I just wanted to confirm the number of hours it had on it.

If you also have the "bleed over" please let me know. It must be a reflection of something inside the cabinet.

http://img373.imageshack.us/img373/4772/dsc05501pq1largeqc6.jpg

The a750 has a optical digital audio out -- anyone know if that will take in RCA (red/white) and pump out over the digital? I'm trying to hook up the Wii:
- I'd like the audio to go through the receiver
- I don't have enough component in/out slots on my receiver to run video thru it
- the wii cable has a single bundled component cable with RCA audio (ie, 5 jacks at one end -- it isn't easy to put the video into the tv and the audio into the receiver
- I have an empty optical digital slot... just not an extra cable
so, I'm hoping to connect the wii directly to the TV, then use the TV's digital audio out to the receiver.

Here's the bleed over I was describing above. Notice the mirror image of the headlights in the black bar. Kinda hard to make out here but it is very noticable in person. Try standing up and looking down at your monitor and you should be able to see it much better. I think I'll just call Crutchfield and have them send me another one.

Turls,

I wanted to check the number of hours because I suspect my set may have been used. The factory tape appears to have been removed and reapplied and I just wanted to confirm the number of hours it had on it.

If you also have the "bleed over" please let me know. It must be a reflection of something inside the cabinet.

It looks like my 26" Samsung CRT HDTV when there is bright light in a dark scene...i have never seen that on any rear projection set....get a samsung tech out to look at it or exchange for a new one if you can

This is my first post, so please refer me to the right place to look if this isn't it.

I want A 50 inch HDTV that can do 3D. I'd like USB 2.0 and HDMI 1.3, but these aren't showstoppers.

Also, I don't think I want to change bulbs or color wheels. But since this will be my first HDTV, I'd appreciate anyt advice.

I've been looking at the X87 and X89, but I can get the 650 for about the same price.

the A650 series is bulb and color wheel, and the 5089S is last years flagship LED set. Hope that helps, i am pretty sure they both have everything else the main difference is bulb and color wheel versus LED. I think that the A650 has usb 2.0 but dont quote me on that one...

Which is better the 650 or 750, the 750 seems to have a lot of teh problems last years model did, bowing hour glass tilt etc. does the 650 have these problems? does the 650 have a equal picture to last years model? thanks

It appears that many 750s have some of type of minor-to-major slant/bowing issue in the display. Do any of you with this bowing problem regret your purchase?

It looks like my 26" Samsung CRT HDTV when there is bright light in a dark scene...i have never seen that on any rear projection set....get a samsung tech out to look at it or exchange for a new one if you can

I already called Crutchfield and they are ready to send out a replacement as soon as they get more in stock. No telling how long that will be.

It appears that many 750s have some of type of minor-to-major slant/bowing issue in the display. Do any of you with this bowing problem regret your purchase?

If I really look for it in my set I can find that it's there, but but anyone that doesn't know about it would probably never notice. I'm not anal about it and I wonder how many people that read about it here would ever notice it otherwise. Some sets are probably worse that others, but the little that is there is definetly not a show stopper. I extremely happy with the brightness, viewing angle and overall PQ.

:o

Same problems with 650--It's not limited to the LED model.

I've got a question regarding using HDMI or VGA for my xbox 360. I learned from experience the problems the A61750 has with 1080p over component and have read that 1080p is mostly supported through VGA or HDMI. My question is which would look better? Does anyone here have first hand experience with both? Some have claimed the VGA washes out colors while others have said that is BS, I trust you guys so I'm bringing this up here.

I ran VGA with an xbox 360 for over a year on my previous HLN50 Samsung DLP. I had no problems and great quality. It also does all of the up conversion of normal DVDs with the HD-DVD player. Component will not do the upconversion.

I now have the a750 and a new Xbox with an HDMI port so I use HDMI

Received my 61A750 last Tuesday and all I can say is wow though had a bowing problem about 3mm and its not a problem for me. Only use my htpc and OTA but have plan to get a hd player.Anyone get an extended warranty for this set? Do I need to? Where could I find cheaper than CC.

Impressions so far...

Picked up 750 for $2070 out the door (taxes, next day delivery/setup) from BB. Add to that about $40 in RewardZone certificates bringing the net to $2030. Perhaps could have worked a better deal but it wouldn't have been by much...so pretty happy with it, especially from a brick and mortar store.

Brightness:
First off, this unit is very bright. I won't guess on whether it is brighter then the 650 or any other set for that matter. To me, and compared to what I was used to, the 750 is bright!! I have this set in a two-story family room with 8 windows (4 of them double-wide). 4 of these windows are high up so they spread A LOT of light into the room. This is probably the worst room to have for a projection set!! However, watching TV during a bright sunny afternoon proved to be no issue at all. Watched a Cubs game and was thouroughly impressed with the PQ. My brightness setting is at 60 right now. Prior to this, I had a 61" DLP bulb. It lasted awhile but got to the point where I could barely see the picture at night, much less during the day. So, maybe it's not fair to compare the two but considering the environment my TV is in (large, bright room), I would give this set thumbs up for brightness!

Viewing angle:
Side to side is above average but not great. Certainly better then what I had. From what I could tell when comparing in-store, it seemed to be on par if not better then the other projection sets. The vertical angle is not as good as I would have hoped. However, if you are sitting when you watch TV (which I would assume most of us do), then that is not an issue. It tends to dim pretty rapidly the higher your viewpoint is. Again, not a big issue if you are sitting down anyways. I have my set about 14 feet from where I typically sit. At that distance, the vertical angle is minimized anyways.

PQ:
Awesome! I am no expert by any stretch but the OOB picture was pretty darn impressive. I have yet to tweak settings so I assume it could only get better. For me, even SD was pretty good. All in all, I am pretty happy with it.

Bowing/Slanting:
Yes, I have noticible bowing (approx. 1/8 inch?) when viewing programs with side bars. Typical hour-glass shape. Not bad but it can be seen...even by my wife who doesn't generally care about any of this crap! Does it affect viewing? No. Do I care? Not really. I don't often watch non-HD programming much these days so I generally don't have to deal with it. Even when I do, it's really not that bad. Then again, it's all about personal preferences. Not sure if I have any slanting yet as I have not thrown up an image to be able to tell. I have not observed anything yet to indicate I do.

Overall, I am very happy/impressed with this set and the PQ and brightness (which was a big concern for me considering the room I have the set in). That and the fact that it is LED sold me early on. Would I buy one again? Yes!

Now, I need to fork over a few hundred bucks to get a new buld for my other set (which is going in the basement where sun light is not nearly as much of a concern).

Same problems with 650--It's not limited to the LED model.

I can vouch for that. I have a service call in for it now. I am hoping they can fix this.

I too am interested in the 750. What is everyone doing with their "old" DLP's???

I too am interested in the 750. What is everyone doing with their "old" DLP's???
upgrading another room. Moved a CRT to a new guest room, added the old 43" DLP to the room where the CRT was, and put a 50" where the 43 was.

Now I wait for the 72 for the basement.

And the 65" Rear Projection HD CRT from the basement will go to my bedroom, if I can get like 30 people to carry that beast up the stairs.

Now I wait for the 72 for the basement.


What 72" are you talking about?

I am interested in the upcoming 67" Sammy LED. I was hoping for an even larger size though.

What 72" are you talking about?

I am interested in the upcoming 67" Sammy LED. I was hoping for an even larger size though.
HL72A650. I know it's bulb and all that, but I'll buy an EW and be fine. By the time the EW runs out, I'll have the itch for a new TV.

I almost bought the HL-T7288W, but now I'm going to wait and see this new one before deciding.

Hauled my new Sammy 61" 750 home last night from CC. The box would not fit into the back of my 99 Escalade so we took it out of the carton. It just into the back of the caddie without carton. Got home, put togther the TV stand, set the Sammy on it and turned it on. WOW! What a picture. Had some noice issues with the Pio "94 reciever when changing channels via the cable box. Unplugged the Sammy HDMI #1 and repuggled back into HDMI/DVI #3. No noise so far. Issue with the manual though, it does not explain how to plug into a HD reciever that does all the audio decoding for HD, and is the only audio source that you want to use. Who wants to reroute the audio through the Sammy to the reciever, and that was the only choice explained in the manual.

Bill

I had another reset yesterday using my Xbox via component directly to the tv. It was annoying having the TV reset in the middle of a COD4 match.

I called Samsung and they faxed a service request to a local repair company. Problem is I don't want to let a repair company take it from my house for a repair. When they took my HLR6168, they had it for three weeks. They repaired the shadow problem but left a tiny smudge on one of the mirrors, which shows up as a small blob on the screen. If they don't repair it in home, I my just return it to CC and avoid Samsung from now on. No idea what to buy next since I like the picture and the lack of a bulb.

Their 2008 LCDs on the LNxxA650 forum also have the reset problem. There doesn't appear to be a fix yet. Someone mentioned burn marks on a circuit board. Others have mentioned a new firmware and having the power supply replaced, both didn't work for them. Which makes me think the repair company will have no idea what to fix on my TV. I don't want to be stuck with a tv that resets randomly or that may fail from the problem after the warrant expires.

i will be getting this tv from best buy with the extended plan this weekend, all repairs are in house, or bring u a new tv. at the end of 4 years, i can renew the policy, which is really nice so basically, as long as i have the tv, i might just keep the extended warranty active.

Don't listen to them. They got you on the hook with a Monstercable surge protector and they want to reel you in on a $400 Monster conditioner. Many surge protectors are just a cheap breaker and a nearly impossible to collect on insurance policy. Your home-owners insurance / renters insurance may even provide that same coverage. To make matters more confusing, many equipment manufactures are telling people not to plug their product into a surge protector. I think the new Xbox was one of the first to request no protection.

i have an APC protector that guarantees equipment up to $20K, although, i've had that for about 10 years and never had a problem with anything yet

Received my 61A750 last Tuesday and all I can say is wow though had a bowing problem about 3mm and its not a problem for me. Only use my htpc and OTA but have plan to get a hd player.Anyone get an extended warranty for this set? Do I need to? Where could I find cheaper than CC.

Below is a link to the web site where I bought my extended warranty. They have several warranty Company's to choose from, all with reduced prices... I chose the Mack warranty partly because they use the same repair service people as Samsungs factory warranty.

http://www.newworldvideodirect.com/categorylist.asp?ParentID=167

I don't know if I needed to buy the extended warranty for the 61A750?? But I think this TV is great... I have no regrets, and plan on keeping for several years.

i got my 750 tues of this week... honestly no issues, i havent noticed any tilt... thre is slight bowing but its so minor noone sees it and to be honest, i dont see it anymore really... to answer alot of you, yes i would buy it again but i do have a question...

the way im sitting right now.. im about 7ish feet from the set, and my eye level matches up pretty much with where teh bottom of the actual screen starts... im curious is there a better eye level i should be at for viewing this tv for this distance? i know once you back up it doesnt really matter anymore

i will be getting this tv from best buy with the extended plan this weekend, all repairs are in house, or bring u a new tv. at the end of 4 years, i can renew the policy, which is really nice so basically, as long as i have the tv, i might just keep the extended warranty active.

BB is where I got mine w/EW. I was on the renewal of an EW on my 6 year old Philips 60". It died and BB replaced with the 750. I plan on doing the same as you for the 750. No hassles from them either. They are more pricey but the no lemon is worth the extra money to me and I dont have to worry about 'comparable replacement'.:):):)

Is it bad that I have no desire to go into my 750's service menu to look at patterns?
I absolutely love the picture quality and feel like what I don't know won't kill me.

I've also got a feeling some of you guys are the same guys in the grocery store spending 10 minutes looking for that perfect dozen of eggs that doesn't even exist!

the way im sitting right now.. im about 7ish feet from the set, and my eye level matches up pretty much with where teh bottom of the actual screen starts... im curious is there a better eye level i should be at for viewing this tv for this distance? i know once you back up it doesnt really matter anymore


It is generally recomended to sit with eye level at mid screen height, with any set at any distance.


Is it bad that I have no desire to go into my 750's service menu to look at patterns?
I absolutely love the picture quality and feel like what I don't know won't kill me.

I've also got a feeling some of you guys are the same guys in the grocery store spending 10 minutes looking for that perfect dozen of eggs that doesn't even exist!

LOL!!

Purchased an A750 last Thursday. Like it very much. I've scanned all posts to this thread and didn't see any mention of securing the unit so that it won't fall over in a small earthquake. There are no "points" built into the "case" to secure it. A unit does not seem to be top heavy but it does seem to be front heavy which is probably why the small "foot" exists which doesn't seem to do all that much.

oo

I've also got a feeling some of you guys are the same guys in the grocery store spending 10 minutes looking for that perfect dozen of eggs that doesn't even exist!
Hey - I resemble that remark, though I always do manage to eventually find a dozen that aren't broken :D. While I agree with you to an extent, there really isn't much excuse for a TV to have some of the geometry problems we're reading about here. If the sets need to be deeper for the optics to work out properly, they should be. And quality control definitely needs to improve - there seems to be way to much difference from one sample to another.

does anyone have dish remote control code for the 750 w/ a Dish VIP622?

Can more owners be nice enough to take more pics of their 750s?

After calibrating my newly arrived 750, I watched a little bit of Ghost Rider and noticed that objects near the top black letterbox bar seem to bleed over into the bar. It must be some type of reflection or halo but it is very annoying to say the least. Has anyone else experienced this?I see this as well and I'm guessing it's "normal" for the set. If I used it for watching most of the my movies it would be going back at once. However it still might just get returned because it's down right silly.

Can others see the reflection in the top black bar? If so I won't worry about a service call or swapping sets.

Please reread what I was saying. It WAS correct that people weren't giving any objective evidence and just saying that one looked brighter than another on the showroom floor. Information like you mention is objective evidence and deserves consideration.

I have a few questions for you. Is the information you quote from 650 and 750 Samsung service manuals? If so, what other specs (or information for that matter) are present that perhaps are not mentioned on the website? Also, how do they measure brightness? Output of the source (bulb or LED) or outputs of the actual sets? This is important.

The information was in the service manual, how they measured it I really don't know. Last years LED's were 450CD, this years LED is also 450CD. If it appears brighter to you than last years thats great. At this point it looks like I am slamming the 750 and I am not so I will let my comments stand and shut up about it already. They are both nice sets except for the slanting and bowing which is still an issue.

Is it bad that I have no desire to go into my 750's service menu to look at patterns?
I absolutely love the picture quality and feel like what I don't know won't kill me.

I've also got a feeling some of you guys are the same guys in the grocery store spending 10 minutes looking for that perfect dozen of eggs that doesn't even exist!

Obviously, you don't do your own shopping. Takes at least 15 min. to find a perfect dozen.

I see this as well and I'm guessing it's "normal" for the set. If I used it for watching most of the my movies it would be going back at once. However it still might just get returned because it's down right silly.

Can others see the reflection in the top black bar? If so I won't worry about a service call or swapping sets.

My 750 does the same reflection when watching wide screen movies... I think it's just the reflection from the back mirror. I would say that the 67" may not have this issue or it won't be as bad based on degrees the mirrors are at. Just guessing though.

My older Mits had the same issue due to reflections... and I think it happens on most DLPs, it just depends on how "bad" it is. There's a catch 22 in they're trying to let as much light through as possible for viewing angles and birghtness, but without being able to see the reflections from the internal mirrors. If they 100% fix the viewing angle, then the reflections would be much worse and visa versa.

Some things that helped my older Mits where cleaning out the inside and removing all dust as best as possible both on the rear of the screen and mirrors. (even brand new from the factories seem to have dust)... also reducing the brightness can help some.


TK.

I see this as well and I'm guessing it's "normal" for the set. If I used it for watching most of the my movies it would be going back at once. However it still might just get returned because it's down right silly.

Can others see the reflection in the top black bar? If so I won't worry about a service call or swapping sets.

You're right, it is silly. I wasn't even trying to find any issues with the TV. I just sat down to watch my first movie and when the Columbia Pictures screen popped up, I noticed the reflection right away. The movie hadn't even started yet.

It's one thing to go looking for defects, in which most cases, you'll always find something, but when a defect catches your attention while you're just trying to watch TV, it needs to be corrected in my opinion.

My 5087S never had this issue and I will be calling the Samsung tech in my area to ask if it is fixable.

If everyone here could please let us know if you have this reflection or not it would help determine if this is a "normal" side effect in these TVs. It won't take much to see if you have it. Just darken the room a little and watch for the bleeding when bright objects are near the top of your screen.

You're right, it is silly. I wasn't even trying to find any issues with the TV. I just sat down to watch my first movie and when the Columbia Pictures screen popped up, I noticed the reflection right away. The movie hadn't even started yet.

It's one thing to go looking for defects, in which most cases, you'll always find something, but when a defect catches your attention while you're just trying to watch TV, it needs to be corrected in my opinion.

My 5087S never had this issue and I will be calling the Samsung tech in my area to ask if it is fixable.

If everyone here could please let us know if you have this reflection or not it would help determine if this is a "normal" side effect in these TVs. It won't take much to see if you have it. Just darken the room a little and watch for the bleeding when bright objects are near the top of your screen.


See my above post... also, if others want to "test" for this, I think the easiest thing to do is to roll some end credits that are white text on a black background.

My 750 does the same reflection when watching wide screen movies... I think it's just the reflection from the back mirror. I would say that the 67" may not have this issue or it won't be as bad based on degrees the mirrors are at. Just guessing though.

My older Mits had the same issue due to reflections... and I think it happens on most DLPs, it just depends on how "bad" it is. There's a catch 22 in they're trying to let as much light through as possible for viewing angles and birghtness, but without being able to see the reflections from the internal mirrors. If they 100% fix the viewing angle, then the reflections would be much worse and visa versa.

Some things that helped my older Mits where cleaning out the inside and removing all dust as best as possible both on the rear of the screen and mirrors. (even brand new from the factories seem to have dust)... also reducing the brightness can help some.


TK.

do we have any pics of this problem? I don't think anything like this has ever caught my eye; but maybe I had this problem on my last samsung dlp and thought it was normal?

do we have any pics of this problem? I don't think anything like this has ever caught my eye; but maybe I had this problem on my last samsung dlp and thought it was normal?I haven't taken any images yet... but it's very easy to spot assuming the room is fairly dark.

Simply play a 2:35 movie and about half of the upper black bar will be influenced by the contents of the image directly below it. Such that if there is a light area in one section of the image the black bar will be lighter directly above it.

Now that I have seen it I also noticed it during commercials which are letterboxed. I tried to blame my Blu-ray player but unfortunately that isn't the case.

I see this as well and I'm guessing it's "normal" for the set. If I used it for watching most of the my movies it would be going back at once. However it still might just get returned because it's down right silly.

Can others see the reflection in the top black bar? If so I won't worry about a service call or swapping sets.
Hmmm... haven't noticed this on my set, but I'll specifically test it out tonight. been too "wowed" by the picture and other stuff to start looking for defects with a critical eye.

One thing I did do last night was measure to see if I had any hourglass bowing in the middle. It sort of looked to me that 4:3 material was slightly pinched in in the middle, but when I measured, it was not. Maybe just an illusion/parallax from where I was sitting, as I wasn't directly in front of the screen.

So, so far the only "defect" I've noticed is an electrical buzzing when I turn Dynamic mode on. This is not a mode I will use, so it's not really an issue. But, part of the reason I got the LED was to have no color wheel (or other noise). I'm concerned if this transformer or power supply noise (or whatever it is), will get any worse. So, I'm thinking of switching out sets. But, since I have no real geometry issues, not sure I want to take the crapshoot. Anyone else hear this buzzing? (Mute your volume on Dynamic mode with a bright scene to check).

Ok Guys!

I bit the bullet last Thursday and got my TV delivered last Friday. Sorry I waited so long to post. I've been too busy watching HD!!!

This new SAMSUNG ROCKS!!!!!

My old TV was a Zenith 60" RP-CRT 4/3 SD. It had great color and contrast, at least for it's day. One of my buddies has a 50" Kuro. Another has a X46" 720p LG brand DLP. Another with an old 60" Sony HDRP-LCD. And my brother has on old HDRP-CRT with 9" cannons. I have not seen my brothers CRT since he got his HD-A2 and Planet Earth HD-DVD. But inc comparison to all the others, only the Kuro comes close. And I actually kinda like my new Samsung better.

The colors on the Sammy are amazing! The black level and details are astounding! The shine of lights is incredible!

I am much more impressed than I thought I'd of been. And the interesting thing is that even though the sharpness of 1080p is impressive, it's not quite as impressive as the vibrant colors and contrasts of this set.

When my wife and I first watched an episode of Battlestar Galactica from one of our DVDs, we were absolutely stunned! The space scenes look so real. The nebulas, stars, and dust all come to life with their own colors and the shine off of the Galactica is really COOL!

I am so glad I went for the a750. I had considered last years model. But after finally seeing a 2008 model at BB, I just had to have it! I think the brightness plays an important part of creating such a magnificent picture. Also, the colors from the factory seem more realistic to me. I really didn't have to do much tweeking. So far I have changed the mode to movie, the Black level to medium, the tone to cool2. And that's just about it. Seems to be a great starting point anyway!

So far I haven't had any problems of any kind.

I also wanted to mention something that I hadn't seen yet in this thread. And please forgive me if I missed this conversation. I have been to busy watching HD to keep up with the latest and greatest with this forum. Anyway, IMHO, this TV does quite an amazing Job up converting content set to it's component inputs. Now, I don't think it is quite as good as my new HD-A30's up converting. But, it is quite impressive I think.

Anyway, I don't know what else to say. If you are looking for a great DLP, you will not be disappointed!!! The picture is awesome!! :D

Can anyone post a pic of this reflection?

I checked the A750 on display where I purchased my set and you could instantly see the reflections on the top black bar. So it must be wide spread if not on all sets.

The sales guy instantly said I should call for service... how the heck are you going to fix this! Looking for a replacement set the best I could come up with was a Samsung 58 inch plasma that he would let go for a little more than the A750.

SO let me see If I understand this.

On a letterboxed movie you see part of the movie image where it is supposed to be black?

Post pics but try it with different lighting.

I have somthing like this on black on white:

http://i195.photobucket.com/albums/z259/jhferry/DSCF0865.jpg

While I am at it, here is the bowing and slant pics:

http://i195.photobucket.com/albums/z259/jhferry/Bowing.jpg

http://i195.photobucket.com/albums/z259/jhferry/Tilt.jpg

Below is a link to the web site where I bought my extended warranty. They have several warranty Company's to choose from, all with reduced prices... I chose the Mack warranty partly because they use the same repair service people as Samsungs factory warranty.

http://www.newworldvideodirect.com/categorylist.asp?ParentID=167

I don't know if I needed to buy the extended warranty for the 61A750?? But I think this TV is great... I have no regrets, and plan on keeping for several years.

Anyone know what the difference is between the standar Mack warranty and the Mack Premier warranty?

Here are two captured images. More than likely you won't see it in the first image as the camera doesn't pick it up well (if shows up better if I look at the image from the side of my monitor). However on the second image it shows up beyond what it does in person.

Both images are of the exact same frame with different exposures. As you can see the black bar remains black when the content is fairly dark but reflects lighter images from just below. In real life the reflection is perhaps 15% as bright as the second image.

...well, not to sound like a douche... but bowing and reflections are "normal" problems for DLP... if you've ever taken a DLP's main screen off then you'll instantly know why. Of course you can find sets that are better than others just like with anything.

I guess my point is just about every type of HDTV out there has it's own issues.... from Clouding and stuck pixels on LCD to image retention and burn-in on Plasma to Geometry and reflection with DLP. Until there are new techs out there to not only replace what's out there now, but also solve the all the current issues too, everyone simply has to pick their poison and figure what what they care most about.

In general (not pointed at any one person)... why have some of you picked DLP when you complain about reflections and geometry issues?... is because the issues of LCD and Plasma are worse in your eyes? They are in mine and that's why I picked DLP... I also play many games over many systems and response times/image retention as well as risk of burn in are very major points for me... so the small issues with slight geometry or little reflection doesn't bother me.


If someone wants me to explain why we're getting reflection with these sets I will... it all has to do with how transparent the screen is made... as I said, they can make a screen that won't show any reflections, but the brightness and viewing angles will get much worse.

These reflections we are currently talking about are normal... the only way to get them better would be (besides ensure there's no dust on the mirrors) to replace the main screen with one that lets less light through.

There are other reflections that are NOT normal.. but this "bleeding" of bright objects into the black bar IS a normal reflection. Why, there are a series of mirrors inside the TV... the last one is the largest and sits behind the main screen.... when the light hits this mirror it of course reflects off and into/through the main screen... but because of the angle the mirror sits at objects tend to hit it either higher or lower before getting reflected back... so what your seeing is the same object that's on the screen... only you're technically looking "through" the main screen and onto the mirror which now has a bright spot because you're displaying a bright object.

Dust will scatter the light more, so cleaning the inside will help... also, as the light source dims the reflections will get a little better... but if this bothers you tons and tons... I'd say move over to LCD, Plasma... or find a DLP with limited viewing angles and low bright screen.


Lastly, if someone wants to prove me wrong on my thoughts that just about every set of this series will show this issue and tell me it's not normal please do so.


As far as I know though... about the only thing that a service guy MIGHT be able to do to fix the issue, would be to change the angle of the final mirror so that the birght reflections line more up with the bright object on screen... but I would guess that overscanning would be worse or other issues would show their head though.

Here are two captured images. More than likely you won't see it in the first image as the camera doesn't pick it up well (if shows up better if I look at the image from the side of my monitor). However on the second image it shows up beyond what it does in person.

Both images are of the exact same frame with different exposures. As you can see the black bar remains black when the content is fairly dark but reflects lighter images from just below. In real life the reflection is perhaps 15% as bright as the second image.

Wow, that's really annoying. I watch a lot of widescreen movies and if I would have to see that reflection every time, it sure would take away from the experience.

Other than overscan and "satisfactory" black levels, my Sony LCD RPTV works great. I don't have any of the mirror issues above, or bowing, or anything else of the sort. I'm almost tempted to buy last year's Sony LCD RPTV set in 60" width, as I can still find it new.

Does the 650 series have the same drawback where brighter images are partially displayed above in the 750, in the black border?

I need help with 24p

I own a Canon HV20 HD video camera which has true 24p shooting mode.
When connected via HDMI, I playback the 24p recorded video and the TV still says "60hz" and the video appears a bit jerky. Not a problem at all when played back on my Macbook.

Suggestions?

When I had my 6 year old Mitsubishi CRT RPTV calibrated I had the guy line the inside of the set with duvetyne to minimize internal reflections that would show up as light spots on the screen. Would something like that work in these Samsungs? Is it even possible to access the internal area behind the screen? I'm not familiar enough with these DLP sets to know for sure.

Here are two captured images. More than likely you won't see it in the first image as the camera doesn't pick it up well (if shows up better if I look at the image from the side of my monitor). However on the second image it shows up beyond what it does in person.

Both images are of the exact same frame with different exposures. As you can see the black bar remains black when the content is fairly dark but reflects lighter images from just below. In real life the reflection is perhaps 15% as bright as the second image.

Oh, No my 650 is not doing that at all. I only see a bit of reflection of white on black in a pitch black room.

Hmmm... haven't noticed this on my set, but I'll specifically test it out tonight. been too "wowed" by the picture and other stuff to start looking for defects with a critical eye.

One thing I did do last night was measure to see if I had any hourglass bowing in the middle. It sort of looked to me that 4:3 material was slightly pinched in in the middle, but when I measured, it was not. Maybe just an illusion/parallax from where I was sitting, as I wasn't directly in front of the screen.

So, so far the only "defect" I've noticed is an electrical buzzing when I turn Dynamic mode on. This is not a mode I will use, so it's not really an issue. But, part of the reason I got the LED was to have no color wheel (or other noise). I'm concerned if this transformer or power supply noise (or whatever it is), will get any worse. So, I'm thinking of switching out sets. But, since I have no real geometry issues, not sure I want to take the crapshoot. Anyone else hear this buzzing? (Mute your volume on Dynamic mode with a bright scene to check).
I also hear the "buzzing" when in dynamic mode. The "buzzing" seems to be gone even if I'm close to the front of the set when not in dynamic mode.

...well, not to sound like a douche... but bowing and reflections are "normal" problems for DLP... if you've ever taken a DLP's main screen off then you'll instantly know why. Of course you can find sets that are better than others just like with anything.

I guess my point is just about every type of HDTV out there has it's own issues.... from Clouding and stuck pixels on LCD to image retention and burn-in on Plasma to Geometry and reflection with DLP. Until there are new techs out there to not only replace what's out there now, but also solve the all the current issues too, everyone simply has to pick their poison and figure what what they care most about.

In general (not pointed at any one person)... why have some of you picked DLP when you complain about reflections and geometry issues?... is because the issues of LCD and Plasma are worse in your eyes?While I'm basically in agreement with many of your points I still feel there are issues at hand that go beyond... pick your poison.

I tend to believe the different technologies should offer features the others don't versus a lack of "defective issues" the others come with (while still offering a few of their own). I see that as a big difference. Along with the sad fact that companies have no apparent interest in obtaining any quality level at all.

I have looked at close to a dozen A750s and everyone of them have been different and the range in performance is dramatically different. So even if you want to pick your poison you may still have to try several before you find one you'll survive.

I'm a front projector guy and went through this same process more or less last year when purchasing a 1080p projector. The LCD and SXRD projectors had all kinds of focus (being three chippers), color uniformity and dead pixel issues. So much so that I tried a half dozen or so and couldn't find one I could live with. DLP didn't have these issues nor any glaring one's of its own.

To a large extent I ended up purchasing the projector with the least amount of issues not the one that performed the best. Which I find rather silly.

One of the reasons I hadn't replaced my old rear projection set was for exactly this reason. I knew I wouldn't be looking for a set with a great image rather I'd be trying to find one that didn't have any major flaws.

I understand it's the entire industry but why can't they spend just a little more time trying to produce a better quality product instead of coming up with totally unrealistic contrast ratios (along with many other features) that aren't realized in every day usage.

Today when I went in to check out the store's A750 I ended up talking with one of the sales guys. He happens to be the one who calibrates the sets. We started talking about alternative sets (after he said the reflection issue would drive him nuts) and he showed me various sets.

This plasma has a dead pixel, this plasma is cloudy, this LCD has a dead group of pixels and so forth. He wasn't showing me sets I wanted to buy! It felt more like we were walking through a morgue. :)

I understand it must be the most profitable path for the companies to take but being an old fart doesn't make it any more less sad. I simply want to turn on my TV and enjoy the show... I'm not looking for perfection in the den.

While I'm basically in agreement with many of your points I still feel there are issues at hand that go beyond... pick your poison.

I tend to believe the different technologies should offer features the others don't versus a lack of "defective issues" the others come with (while still offering a few of their own). I see that as a big difference. Along with the sad fact that companies have no apparent interest in obtaining any quality level at all.

I have looked at close to a dozen A750s and everyone of them have been different and the range in performance is dramatically different. So even if you want to pick your poison you may still have to try several before you find one you'll survive.

I'm a front projector guy and went through this same process more or less last year when purchasing a 1080p projector. The LCD and SXRD projectors had all kinds of focus (being three chippers), color uniformity and dead pixel issues. So much so that I tried a half dozen or so and couldn't find one I could live with. DLP didn't have these issues nor any glaring one's of its own.

To a large extent I ended up purchasing the projector with the least amount of issues not the one that performed the best. Which I find rather silly.

One of the reasons I hadn't replaced my old rear projection set was for exactly this reason. I knew I wouldn't be looking for a set with a great image rather I'd be trying to find one that didn't have any major flaws.

I understand it's the entire industry but why can't they for spend just a little more time trying to produce a better quality product instead of coming up with totally unrealistic contrast ratios (along with many other features) that aren't realized in every day usage.

Today when I went in to check out the store's A750 I ended up talking with one of the sales guys. He happens to be the one who calibrates the sets. We started talking about alternative sets (after he said the reflection issue would drive him nuts) and he showed me various sets.

This plasma has a dead pixel, this plasma is cloudy, this LCD has a dead group of pixels and so forth. He wasn't showing me sets I wanted to buy! It felt more like we were walking through a morgue. :)

I understand it must be the most profitable path for the companies to take but being an old fart doesn't make it any more less sad. I simply want to turn on my TV and enjoy the show... I'm not looking for perfection in the den.

I hear ya, when I went through 4 TVs still to have problems I tried to explain to my Wife why you may have issues because it a lower end set compared to Plasma and LCD. She said it was $2,000! and I said I know, that just what they cost now. There is nothing you can buy without issues. So I opted for picture and boy, the picture on these sets is sooo good. If they kept them in the bigger HLS cabs we would have close to perfect TV's right not.

I hear ya, when I went through 4 TVs still to have problems I tried to explain to my Wife why you may have issues because it a lower end set compared to Plasma and LCD.From past experience often the price has very little do with the number or degrees of issues. At times the lower price does tend to make it easier to live with them however.

My first front projector was well into five digits and it had plenty of issues. That's why my latest was a bargain basement special (Optoma HD80). I wasn't willing to pay more and still end up with numerous issues.

So even if you want to pick your poison you may still have to try several before you find one you'll survive.

Great way to sum it up. So true.

Finally got everything in place today (new Sony DG720 receiver, new TV stand and light bridge) and snapped some pics of my new 61A750!


My man cave 2.0
(where I disappear to when wifey nags and when the soon-to-be kid has a smelly diaper)

http://img122.imageshack.us/img122/2505/243643471753e905efbdbcy5.jpg

http://img122.imageshack.us/img122/8004/2437253962926d5c9377bwl7.jpg

Look ma, no viewing angle problems!
http://img106.imageshack.us/img106/43/24364348614dc3b94602bjr6.jpg

http://img174.imageshack.us/img174/985/img4185ln0bo5.jpg
(I took that pic in Maui, 2004)


LOVING this TV btw. After lots of playing around with settings, I feel that the PQ now rivals my plasma.

.

The issue with the reflection on the widescreen borders doesn't seem apparent here though.

I got free delivery from them on an internet order with 10% off, free delivery, and 18 month same as cash financing--I had geometry and focus issues--I figured it out early in my return period, called them, and asked them to load up TWO replacements on the truck because I figured it would take me another try or two--they did so no problem, free replacement delivery. YMMV, I'm sure it depends on the store (once the set was delivered I dealt with the B&M store that delivered it), but they seem pretty easy to deal with. I bought my first DLP in a AVS Powerbuy but had too many problems I had to work with Samsung on. Samsung was ok to deal with, but I have more leverage with a store that won't get a dime from me if they don't make it right.

Of course the margin of difference in pricing between internet and B&M is much smaller now, so that factored into the decision as well.

I've been told that Circuit City causes a real hassle if you attempt to return a DLP with bowing issues for a replacement. A buddy of mine who also owns an 87S said he had to return THREE sets to Circuit City before finally receiving one with good geometry. He claims that they were constantly trying to tell him that it was simply just the nature of rear-projection.

The issue with the reflection on the widescreen borders doesn't seem apparent here though.It's hard to capture but I believe it's visible in the second image. See the light blue shadow (within the black bar) above the white background. Actually it's a great example as that's what it looks like from a typical viewing distance.

http://img122.imageshack.us/img122/8004/2437253962926d5c9377bwl7.jpg

can somebody post a pic of what the remote control looks like?

It's hard to capture but I believe it's visible in the second image. See the light blue shadow (within the black bar) above the white background. Actually it's a great example as that's what it looks like from a typical viewing distance.

http://img122.imageshack.us/img122/8004/2437253962926d5c9377bwl7.jpg

Yep, you spotted it (just to the right of Depp's head). Very prominent even at that distance from the TV with lighting in the room. I have a tech coming out but I doubt he'll be able to do anything about it. He'll probably just say "it's within specs" like every other defect. This just plain sucks.

Yep, you spotted it (just to the right of Depp's head). Very prominent even at that distance from the TV with lighting in the room. I have a tech coming out but I doubt he'll be able to do anything about it. He'll probably just say "it's within specs" like every other defect. This just plain sucks.

I don't have that on my 650 so its either a random thing across both models or a random thing on the 750.

I put Episode III on tonight just to look for it.

I would really like to see some pros post some feedback on the setup and calibration of these sets.
I upgraded my SW to 1004 tonight, before calibration, as the post-update reset sent all my settings back to default. Before the update, I only had a single reboot event, and I haven't yet seen seen the halos or geometry problems others have encountered.

I'm no pro -- just an enthusiast with a Spyder2 and HCFR. But I've got some results I'm pretty happy with: Color temp tracks very close to 6500K, gamma is a touch under 2.2, color gamut is >Rec 709 (not as spot-on as Rahull got), CR measures 4124:1 with light output brought down to a reasonable 111 cd/m^2.

IMO, outstanding PQ, way better than out-of-the-box, still with some room for improvement.

Anyone know what the difference is between the standar Mack warranty and the Mack Premier warranty?
Go to Mack Camera's web site. There doesen't appear to be any mention of a Premier Warranty. The one retailer I know that is offering this "Premier" warranty shows the same Mack part numbers for the standard and "Premier" offerings. This leads me to believe that the difference is profit for the retailer.

Edit: Long time lurker in this thread. I have a 67" 750 on order from big river (pre-price hike) and can't wait! Anyone know if the 67's will beat the street date (6/1) like the 61's did?

I purchased my 750 today at Circuit City. I actually assumed that delivery would be free but I ended up having to pay 200 extra for Fire Dog to come and "install" the TV - which is a load of rubbish. They told me that Internet delivery is free because it's just UPS, which means they'll just drop it off.

That's garbage. I'm 45 miles away and they brought their delivery truck. I've never had UPS deliver a TV, its always a freight company with 2 guys. You would have been better off buying through the internet at circuitcity.com, then they wouldn't have the chance to deceivingly upsell you into worthless Fire Dog. I have not seen any loss of B&M benefit from buying through circuitcity.com, but I got to skip dealing with clueless people pre-sale.

Although after I realized that I would be paying 200 dollars for the thing to be delivered a whopping total of about two miles down the road, I decided not to purchase the warranty plan. Which hopefully won't come back to bite me in a few months.

The EW is less than $150 from a vendor on AVS. I don't think getting ripped off on delivery is a good excuse not to get a EW ;)

Quick question about the new firmware (1004) - is there a list somewhere of what issues it is intended to resolve? Thanks in advance....

I upgraded my SW to 1004 tonight, before calibration, as the post-update reset sent all my settings back to default. Before the update, I only had a single reboot event, and I haven't yet seen seen the halos or geometry problems others have encountered.

I'm no pro -- just an enthusiast with a Spyder2 and HCFR. But I've got some results I'm pretty happy with: Color temp tracks very close to 6500K, gamma is a touch under 2.2, color gamut is >Rec 709 (not as spot-on as Rahull got), CR measures 4124:1 with light output brought down to a reasonable 111 cd/m^2.

IMO, outstanding PQ, way better than out-of-the-box, still with some room for improvement.

Could you post your CHC file?

Did you need to go into the service menu to do any adjustments?

Quick question about the new firmware (1004) - is there a list somewhere of what issues it is intended to resolve? Thanks in advance....
I was told by Samsung it fixed two items: power cycle and the issue with surround sound.

I was told by Samsung it fixed two items: power cycle and the issue with surround sound.

OK - thanks! I'm on 1001, dated 2/28/08. I haven't had a power cycle (yet), so I won't fix what's not broken.... (knock on wood)

I upgraded my SW to 1004 tonight, before calibration, as the post-update reset sent all my settings back to default. Before the update, I only had a single reboot event, and I haven't yet seen seen the halos or geometry problems others have encountered.

I'm no pro -- just an enthusiast with a Spyder2 and HCFR. But I've got some results I'm pretty happy with: Color temp tracks very close to 6500K, gamma is a touch under 2.2, color gamut is >Rec 709 (not as spot-on as Rahull got), CR measures 4124:1 with light output brought down to a reasonable 111 cd/m^2.

IMO, outstanding PQ, way better than out-of-the-box, still with some room for improvement.


what is HCFR, please?

Thanks

what is HCFR, please?
Moonhawk, I'm re-posting my same answer to your same question:
Sorry, what is HCFR please?
It's calibration software that works with an assortment of hardware colorimeters.
Read more at http://www.homecinema-fr.com/colorimetre/index_en.php or on the AVS display-calibration threads like this one (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=983943) or this one (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=786966).

Is it just me or does anyone else notice that LED DLPs have off colors. Whites look pinkish and skin tones are overly reddish, whereas the bulb based DLPs look great and have natural whites and skin tones. To me this is apparent in both the HLTxx76/HLTxx87 series and the new HLxxA650/HLxxA750 series. Just go to any CC or BB and look at the bulb vs LED versions next to each other; the difference in color fidelity is striking. I sat down in the store with both sets next to each other and no amount of tuning (including dynamic mode on/off or movie mode) corrected the color issue in the LED backlit version. I really want an LED based TV (no bulb or moving parts to replace) but I can't get past the color issue. Has anyone been able to get the LED DLPs to produce truer colors?

Anyway, waiting until nVidia produces stereoscopic drivers to play games in 3D on the Sammys before spending any $$ on a HL56A650. I believe Tridef.com currently offers s/w to view 3D and normal DVD's (and AVI files) in 3D using shutter glasses with the HLT and 650 series though.

On the 61a750 if you are right up by it does the picture have a very slight less sharpness/less led light on top half of screen then bottom?BTW easier to check on top left side with pc on to see it.Before you answer you have to look up close on smallish text or even text under pc icons to tell if the text is slightly blurred/less clear then bottom of screen.Im thinking maybe very minor may be normal since these are very large and thin screens/bezel.Also if you change any settings in service menu if you click factory default in SM does that also reset the service menu stuff you changed?

Could someone tell me what the "3D effect" option does on this TV? Can you just put on regular red/blue 3D glasses and watch stuff in 3D or does this have to be used with the future add-on and have specific glasses to see. I notice you can turn it on on several different source inputs and that there are 2 modes.

thanks in advance for your help.

I have a 67" 750 on order from big river (pre-price hike) and can't wait! Anyone know if the 67's will beat the street date (6/1) like the 61's did?

Hmmm, what was the pre-price hike at? It's selling for $2900 right now.
We won't see any reduction in price again for this TV for a while I take it.

Is it bad that I have no desire to go into my 750's service menu to look at patterns?
I absolutely love the picture quality and feel like what I don't know won't kill me.

I've also got a feeling some of you guys are the same guys in the grocery store spending 10 minutes looking for that perfect dozen of eggs that doesn't even exist!
I agree with you - ENJOY! If it lacks at all then call on someone like UMR for a professional calibration to perfect instead of seeking OCD events reported on this forum far too often. Panel honeymoon's are brief on this forum while often the owner reviews of a panel by outsiders can be close to 5 star all the while nitpickers just obsess on this forum to the point of lunacy here to the point you'd think every panel were a POS.

Let your eyes be the JUDGE!:)

Does anyone know if CNET will be reviewing the 2008 Samsung's? I'd like to know their take on the 650 & 750's.

Also, what other places do video reviews? I think I've seen some done on TigerDirect.

I agree with you - ENJOY! If it lacks at all then call on someone like UMR for a professional calibration to perfect instead of seeking OCD events reported on this forum far too often. Panel honeymoon's are brief on this forum while often the owner reviews of a panel by outsiders can be close to 5 star all the while nitpickers just obsess on this forum to the point of lunacy here to the point you'd think every panel were a POS.

Let your eyes be the JUDGE!:)For starters no one can adjust the focus or convergence on the set. If you want to bury your head in the sand (by not looking at a few simple test patterns) that's fine. However your eyes can't really judge the set unless you do. Frankly staring at the image for 30 days trying to see if everything is Ok sounds like a lot more work than spending five minutes and looking at one test grid pattern.

It's hard to capture but I believe it's visible in the second image. See the light blue shadow (within the black bar) above the white background. Actually it's a great example as that's what it looks like from a typical viewing distance.

http://img122.imageshack.us/img122/8004/2437253962926d5c9377bwl7.jpg

This also happens when a very bright area is close to the top black bar on my HLT6189 TV, so it's not just the A750.

I can see this on my set as well. However, a couple of things to note: It looks much worse in the picture than it does in normal viewing. It also looks much worse if you are standing directly in front of the screen, looking down at it. If you are sitting at your normal viewing distance, with the screen at a proper viewing height, it is (to me) barely noticeable. I doubt most of my guests would notice it if I didn't point it out. So, I'm not too worried about it. I'm guessing some sort of internal reflections or something. Lining the insides with Duvetyny probably would help.

It's hard to capture but I believe it's visible in the second image. See the light blue shadow (within the black bar) above the white background. Actually it's a great example as that's what it looks like from a typical viewing distance.

Is it just me or does anyone else notice that LED DLPs have off colors. Whites look pinkish and skin tones are overly reddish, whereas the bulb based DLPs look great and have natural whites and skin tones. To me this is apparent in both the HLTxx76/HLTxx87 series and the new HLxxA650/HLxxA750 series. Just go to any CC or BB and look at the bulb vs LED versions next to each other; the difference in color fidelity is striking. I sat down in the store with both sets next to each other and no amount of tuning (including dynamic mode on/off or movie mode) corrected the color issue in the LED backlit version. I really want an LED based TV (no bulb or moving parts to replace) but I can't get past the color issue. Has anyone been able to get the LED DLPs to produce truer colors?

Maybe just you, (or the set you were looking at)? The color reproduction on my 750 is nothing short of phenominal.

Also, just want to re-iterate a bug that has been posted before, and is still an issue with firmware 1004.

When you change picture modes, like from Standard to Movie, or vice versa, the Black adjust gets reset to high, even though when you look at it in Detailed Settings is says Off! If you actually move it from Off to Low, then back to Off, you will immediately see it. So, everyone beware when adjusting your settings, or when switching picture modes, go in and toggle the Black Adjust (regardless of if it says it is off), from off to low and then back to off. I also swear it did the same thing to me once with Dynamic Contrast. I had it on off, moved it to low, and then back to off, and the picture was different then how it appeared when it was first off. Haven't really figured that one out either, but you may want to check that setting too, just to be sure.

I'd recommend we all call or email Samsung to file a complaint so this gets fixed in a future firmware update.

Could someone tell me what the "3D effect" option does on this TV? Can you just put on regular red/blue 3D glasses and watch stuff in 3D or does this have to be used with the future add-on and have specific glasses to see. I notice you can turn it on on several different source inputs and that there are 2 modes.

thanks in advance for your help.


This requires a special set of glasses that receive a signal from the TV. The glasses look somewhat like sun glasses with battery power. This is where the 120HZ. rate is critical, one eye gets a full 60HZ frame while the other eye gets a different full 60HZ frame.

This was demo'd at CES and is very impressive(at least I thought so). A couple of DVD's have been or will be released in this format soon.

This is nothing like the old red/blue 3D, very realistic...

Check out 3D glasses & SW at http://www.ddd.com/

anybody have a picture of the remote on the 750?? I can't find pics of it anywhere

SO has anyone attempted to fix the bowing themselves like last years owners did? I know they had decent success with bowing and tilt.

SO has anyone attempted to fix the bowing themselves like last years owners did? I know they had decent success with bowing and tilt.<jhferry> I also need this information he asked anyone please?thank you.

This requires a special set of glasses that receive a signal from the TV. The glasses look somewhat like sun glasses with battery power. This is where the 120HZ. rate is critical, one eye gets a full 60HZ frame while the other eye gets a different full 60HZ frame.

This was demo'd at CES and is very impressive(at least I thought so). A couple of DVD's have been or will be released in this format soon.

This is nothing like the old red/blue 3D, very realistic...


I've not seen the DLP tech in person.... but I would assume it's the same or nearly the same as the 3D I-Max setups in terms of looks... which is cool... I've seen around 6 3D/4D I-Max movies and their great... although it can take a bit to get used to.

Also... is ddd.com the only place to get the glasses and such... or are there other companies or sources for the glasses and software?

Could you post your CHC file?

Did you need to go into the service menu to do any adjustments?
Yes. I reset gamma from the 'OEM' to 'Video' setting, and I used the CCA menu. Now that I think of it, I think I messed up with CCA, taking measurements with it Off. That said, the 'after' measurements are still better than the ones 'before':

http://img293.imageshack.us/img293/9130/2437253962926d5c9377bwlbc1.jpg
Yep, you spotted it (just to the right of Depp's head). Very prominent even at that distance from the TV with lighting in the room. I have a tech coming out but I doubt he'll be able to do anything about it. He'll probably just say "it's within specs" like every other defect. This just plain sucks.

Yeaaah that pic came out looking nothing like how it looks in person.
That was a crappy handheld shot which came out blurry and over exposed. What you're referring to - I don't see at all while watching.

I've not seen the DLP tech in person.... but I would assume it's the same or nearly the same as the 3D I-Max setups in terms of looks... which is cool... I've seen around 6 3D/4D I-Max movies and their great... although it can take a bit to get used to.

Also... is ddd.com the only place to get the glasses and such... or are there other companies or sources for the glasses and software?

You can also get them here:
http://www.tridef.com/home.html
and here:
http://razor3d.stores.yahoo.net/dlp3d-wireless-1set.html
http://razor3d.stores.yahoo.net/dlp3d-wireless-2set.html
and here:
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage.jsp?skuId=8637905&st=dlp+3d&lp=1&type=product&cp=1&id=1194054017349
and a few other places. The main problem... all the prices are about the same - too expensive.

Lots of 3d movies are coming out in the future, so I am going to hold off on this for now. It does look promising though. I only wish you could get the 3D version of The Nightmare Before Xmas on DVD!

Here is a good site for discussing this:
http://www.mtbs3d.com/

anybody have a picture of the remote on the 750?? I can't find pics of it anywhere

Download the manual from the manufacturers web site. It has a diagram of the remote in it.

Download the manual from the manufacturers web site. It has a diagram of the remote in it.

thanks man

dont know if this is a repost but the firmware has been posted on samsung's website... version 1004, i just remember people were having trouble getting it from Samsung support.

Yeaaah that pic came out looking nothing like how it looks in person.
That was a crappy handheld shot which came out blurry and over exposed. What you're referring to - I don't see at all while watching.


Interesting. If there are sets out there without the bleeding black bar, then it should be correctable. I should have a tech out by Wed. so we'll see what he says.

Interesting. If there are sets out there without the bleeding black bar, then it should be correctable. I should have a tech out by Wed. so we'll see what he says.

what build date is urs versus Chodite's set?

Yes. I reset gamma from the 'OEM' to 'Video' setting, and I used the CCA menu. Now that I think of it, I think I messed up with CCA, taking measurements with it Off. That said, the 'after' measurements are still better than the ones 'before':

Thanks, looks nice from first glance. Looks like this TV can calibrate pretty good with a little bit of work.

Nice contrast ratio, especially compared to my old HLN/HLM

I have somthing like this on black on white:

http://i195.photobucket.com/albums/z259/jhferry/DSCF0865.jpg

From a this screenshot, it looked like a little bit of Chromatic Abbreviation. Does anyone else have similar problems?

Hmmm, what was the pre-price hike at? It's selling for $2900 right now.
We won't see any reduction in price again for this TV for a while I take it.
$2552.99 with free shipping.

From a this screenshot, it looked like a little bit of Chromatic Abbreviation. Does anyone else have similar problems?

I have to admit, I dont see it on movies and such.

what build date is urs versus Chodite's set?

The back of my TV shows the build date as March 2008. More specifically, when I registerd my serial number on Samsung's website, it showed the build date as March 31, 2008.

The back of my TV shows the build date as March 2008. More specifically, when I registerd my serial number on Samsung's website, it showed the build date as March 31, 2008.

now we just need to know which build date Chodite's set is...maybe this problem is an early build problem?? Can you take pics of ur set exhibiting this?

Moonhawk, I'm re-posting my same answer to your same question:

Ouch!!

Sorry, thanks for your patience.

Been a little distracted lately, I guess...:)

$2552.99 with free shipping.

Where?

Where?

Crutchfield has the new 2008 750 model for a good price w/ free shipping AND a free matching stand. Excellent customer service too just in case you have problems.

http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Product/Item/Main.aspx?g=147350&i=30561A750&tp=162

Reading through the instruction booklet. HDMI black level is not available on all HDMI sources. Ok...

Film mode does NOT work on 1080p. That explains why my 360 couldnt use it. It would be nice If they actually said what film mode does. Is it the 3:2 pulldown? If so what does Movie mode do now? I also thought 3:2 pulldown wasnt needed with 120 hz?

BTW, where are Eliab and the other calibrators this year? They are usually all over these threads.

Where?
It was a pre-order price on Big River. Now more.

I think at the current price, I'd do the HL72A650. Looks like a $100 difference. Plus I would get EW with Bulb Replace, which is $80 more than just EW, so that's $180 more, or roughly 6% increase in price for 15% increase in screen real estate.

I wish they had added a size bigger than 72, since they already had a 72 last year. An 80 would have been nice, or even a 75. I would have taken a deeper cabinet, if that's what it would have taken.

Sorry, Chief, I live in Chicago too, and I KNOW you ain't putting that TV against the rear kitchen window or the front living room window. Nice try, though. ;)

Actually, I made that sarcastic remark after numerous folks said that the viewing angle fell off sharply at after 45º. Thanks to Chodite's posting, I must say that it doesn't look all that bad at the off-angle, which looks to be close to 45º.

THANK YOU, Chodite. I can't believe you're the first to post an angle view.

As for the analog PIP, does this mean that when everything goes digital next February, the PIP will be worthless?

bought the house as a rehab, so rebuilt to my liking heheh, tv in fact goes to the end of the family room, but, i might move everything to the basement soon anyways

I was able to purchase the HL61A750 on Saturday at Buy.com for $1829.99 - $30 and an additional 3% cash back by using their credit card. Paid $58.92 S&H, and no sales tax. Saw it's up to $2194 today!

I don't know if they mis-marked the price or what, but I jumped on it in a hurry.

Best price I've seen in DFW market is $2199 at Circuit City.

Best deal around?

Wade

i purchased yesterday from Best Buy for 1999, the price matched amazon for me, well, within $12, but thats good enough for me, free delivery tomorrow

Does anyone know the replacement price of the LED based assembly / part? We know the bulbs for the colorwheel DLPs are about $150 each from Samsung. Colorwheel assembly / part price anyone?

Does anyone know the replacement price of the LED based assembly / part? We know the bulbs for the colorwheel DLPs are about $150 each from Samsung. Colorwheel assembly / part price anyone?

If you're asking about the price of the "Light Engine" assembly, then it is around $1200, at least that's how much last yrs sets were. Samsung is assuming you will not need to replace this part ever so that is y they say it lasts the life of the set. I would not plan on getting just the tunnel that houses the LEDs because dust gets in there VERY easily and will cause this effect, here is my first set after my service shop swapped out that housing......i got a replacement thank god

http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h221/wopino/IMG_3044.jpg

Hi,

I currently have last years 50" HL T5076S

I have had it less than a month and recently this years model dropped in price to just about $150 more than I paid for the HL T5076S. I could return it to Circuit City but today is my last day to do it... :eek:

HL50A650 vs HLT5076S

Is the new '650 worth the extra $150?

Thanks for your time.

i purchased yesterday from Best Buy for 1999, the price matched amazon for me, well, within $12, but thats good enough for me, free delivery tomorrow

How were you able to get them to match the Amazon price? I thought they didn't match online retailers? :confused:

How were you able to get them to match the Amazon price? I thought they didn't match online retailers? :confused:

i saw it mentioned in this thread somewhere that they got BB to match the amazon price of 2100, i saw amazon had it listed now for 1987 or something like that, and asked the salesperson about it, she went and spoke with her manager, and came back and said 1999, which also dropped the extended warranty down to $350, and, got the free samsung upconvert dvd player offered on the web plus free delivery.

one of my fathers employees hunsbands (wow, mouthful) works at best buy, and he says that now is a good time to haggle there, slow sales on tvs so they are really budging on price. doesn't hurt to ask, and if u have to, try a few of them.

Hi,

I currently have last years 50" HL T5076S

I have had it less than a month and recently this years model dropped in price to just about $150 more than I paid for the HL T5076S. I could return it to Circuit City but today is my last day to do it... :eek:

HL50A650 vs HLT5076S

Is the new '650 worth the extra $150?

Thanks for your time.

I can answer this... I had 2 HLT6167's earlier this year. I had to return them both due to the screen shaking with any vibration. If you bank whatever stand it on you will see what I mean. Last year they put the bulb sets into this ultraslim cab that was a nightmare. you'll see they already dumped that cab and went back to the slim cab. You also get HDMI 1.3 If that means anything to you and a bunch of new calibrations options. Out of the box the picture is not that much better but you can tune it a ton more than last year so my vote would be yes.

one of my fathers employees hunsbands (wow, mouthful) works at best buy, and he says that now is a good time to haggle there, slow sales on tvs so they are really budging on price. doesn't hurt to ask, and if u have to, try a few of them.

How many fathers do you have?!?! ;)

Another thing you can do at Best Buy to save you $100 of the TV is to buy a blu ray player or PS3. That gives you a hundred dollars off the TV, (not off the player). So, you can decide not to keep the player, and...

That's how I got mine for about a hundred less than you did, and 2 years no interest financing.

How many fathers do you have?!?! ;)

Another thing you can do at Best Buy to save you $100 of the TV is to buy a blu ray player or PS3. That gives you a hundred dollars off the TV, (not off the player). So, you can decide not to keep the player, and...

That's how I got mine for about a hundred less than you did, and 2 years no interest financing.

already have a ps3, and took them up on the 2 years no interest, thats pretty sweet. i just wanted to get the tv and warranty for under 2500. so, i did, putting my stand together now so that it's all ready for them tomorrow, and have to move my old 65" mitsu antique lol

Has anyone dealt with either The High Definition Store.com or onsale.com. Both are authorized Sammy dealers and have extended warranties and reduced or free shipping. Their prices beat BB, CC and Big river. I have been following these threads for years and now after remodelling my home I am ready to pull the trigger on the A750. Any reply would be helpful.

$2552.99 with free shipping.

onsale.com has the 67A750 for $2239.99. best price I could find.

onsale.com has the 67A750 for $2239.99. best price I could find.

I'll rather buy from CC, BB or Crutchfield to make sure return policy etc is good and better customer service. i am happy with Crutchfield and they respond very well. Always ready to help.

onsale.com has the 67A750 for $2239.99. best price I could find.

You need to add shipping to that figure, which for me was $217.75. They also claim a $70 rebate is available on shipping.

I had originally placed a pre-order with them. When I saw Big River was selling for $95 more (or $165 if the shipping rebate is for real), I felt it was worth the additional level of comfort it gave me as opposed to keeping my order with onsale.

I'd still be interested to hear that I made the wrong decision. So if anyone does receive a 67A750 from onsale, for the quoted price, please post your experience.

Edit: Also, I don't see onsale on the list of authorized resellers.

What is Big River????
I cannot find it anywhere on the net.

What is Big River????
I cannot find it anywhere on the net.

I am sure you know - amazon.com

DOH! :eek:
The Amazon is a BIG RIVER!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :rolleyes:

And here I am googleing BIG RIVER thinking this is some other online retail store. :confused:
Sheesh :D

Big River is what AVS posters refer to Amazon as. Although I've never quite been able to figure out why this is.
Here's why: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=482944

Here's why: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=482944

In that case very many posts should be REMOVED! BWA-HA-HA-HA-HA-HA-HA-HA-HA-HA-HA-HA-HA-HA-HA-HA-HA-HA-HA-HA-HA-HA-HA :eek:

Obviously nobody is reporting anything. ;)

BIG RIVER boy do I feel like a DOOHFUSS.:o

Has anyone dealt with either The High Definition Store.com or onsale.com. Both are authorized Sammy dealers and have extended warranties and reduced or free shipping. Their prices beat BB, CC and Big river. I have been following these threads for years and now after remodelling my home I am ready to pull the trigger on the A750. Any reply would be helpful.

I bought my HL61A750 from:
The High Definition Store.com They do not have the best return policy, but my TV was delivered in perfect condition. No bowing, no slanting.
Samsung sent me the firm ware upgrade jump drive when I called and asked for it. I had already registered the TV with Samsung before I asked for the upgrade.

I bought my HL61A750 from:
The High Definition Store.com They do not have the best return policy, but my TV was delivered in perfect condition. No bowing, no slanting.
Samsung sent me the firm ware upgrade jump drive when I called and asked for it. I had already registered the TV with Samsung before I asked for the upgrade.

and this is exactly why i bought the EW from BB, because there are people out there with good sets, and when they are good, they are amazing. and if i need to swap a few until i get it right, then so be it. comes tomorrow, i'll let everyone know how mine is.

did anyone figure out if manufacture date has anything to do with the issues?

Has anyone dealt with either The High Definition Store.com or onsale.com. Both are authorized Sammy dealers and have extended warranties and reduced or free shipping. Their prices beat BB, CC and Big river. I have been following these threads for years and now after remodelling my home I am ready to pull the trigger on the A750. Any reply would be helpful.

Not sure why extended warranties would factor into any decision when you can get those from a vendor that had a PowerBuy on AVS for the 750 for less than $150. I doubt either of the ones you mention are going to beat that. Doesn't matter where you buy the TV for the EW from the AVS PowerBuy vendor.

So I went to BB to buy this TV (61A750) this weekend. It was to big for me to transport so it will be delivered this Saturday. It will be replacing my first HDTV, a Sony 50-XBR800 (RP LCD). I can't wait.

I will say, the "sales guy" didn't know what he was talking about. First he kept pushing me toward LCD flat-panels and plasma displays, which I did not want. I told him I have seen too many ruined plasma TVs (I worked in VOD) and that LCD flat panels never looked good to me. He finally realized I was only gong to buy a RPTV. When I was ready to buy the TV he tried to get me to buy the EW, of course. But his reasons were nonsense, "The bulb you are going to have to replace costs more than the service plan." I said, "There is no bulb, its light source is LED." He then said, "You still have to replace the LEDs when they burn out." I just laughed. He also told me I MUST use a 120Hz compatible HDMI cable to take advantage of the 120Hz of the TV and handed me a $129.00 Monster cable. I said, "Oh really? What device outputs at 120Hz?" He said, "The PS3 and Xbox 360 and probably your HD Cable Box." Needless to say I only bought the TV. :D

Not sure why extended warranties would factor into any decision when you can get those from a vendor that had a PowerBuy on AVS for the 750 for less than $150. I doubt either of the ones you mention are going to beat that. Doesn't matter where you buy the TV for the EW from the AVS PowerBuy vendor.

A legit extended warranty on my 750 for $150? I'm definitely interested.
Link?

In that case very many posts should be REMOVED! BWA-HA-HA-HA-HA-HA-HA-HA-HA-HA-HA-HA-HA-HA-HA-HA-HA-HA-HA-HA-HA-HA-HA :eek:

Obviously nobody is reporting anything. ;)

BIG RIVER boy do I feel like a DOOHFUSS.:o

True. I do it mostly because it's great to watch noobs try to figure it out. :)

Well, I received my 650 from Circuit City early Sunday morning. I was impressed until I threw on a widescreen DVD and noticed the hideous reflections on the top bar, as well as the bowing that I'm convinced is standard on these DLP sets.

I pointed the reflections out to the delivery guys who both agreed that it's clearly abnormal and that the set must be defective. Of course, he was obviously unaware of how common the flaw is.

I went back to the store and exchanged it for one for one of the now discontinued Sony SXRD 60 inch A3000 models. Aside from the bulb, I'm finally happy. No pincushioning during 4:3 mode, no ugly reflections on widescreen movies, and thanks to a sturdy case and a test image that I put up; perfect geometry!

Congrats on those of you who are satisfied with your 650 and 750 sets. But if you're suffering from the issues I've had with Samsung, I strongly suggest tracking down one of the Sony's before they're all gone.

Ugg so the 650 sets have it too, not just the 750 LEDs. The two stores I stopped by after work today were playing full screen stuff so I couldn't look for the reflections or see how bad they were.

I might look for the previous gen Sonys. I can't believe these sets still have all these problems.

Not sure why extended warranties would factor into any decision when you can get those from a vendor that had a PowerBuy on AVS for the 750 for less than $150. I doubt either of the ones you mention are going to beat that. Doesn't matter where you buy the TV for the EW from the AVS PowerBuy vendor.


while that is true, from other posts i've seen on this forums, getting them from BB or CC gives u better/faster results, and all in-home service where i don't go without a TV, also, i specifically did it incase i get a tv thats not up to snuff so i can get it swapped ASAP.


ok, now for the real reason, it made the wife more comfortable :)

I am seriously considering the purchase of a 5089 LED unit while they are still available. Any thoughts as to future problems (finding repair parts, service, or whatever) due to the fact that it is a discontinued model? For example, what if the LED light engine does fail. Will a replacement be available? Is the same light engine used in the new 750 series units?
Thanks for any suggestions. Have appreciated the information provided by this forum.
rturpin

So what's the problem. Is it thought wrong for this forum to give free promotion to firms like Amazon and Circuit City, etc.?
I think it's a mix of things. They don't want to have the forum turn into a best deals discussion - they want the focus to be on the technical side. AVS also sells gear, so they don't want to give the competition free advertising. There are also forum sponsors who also would prefer not to see free advertising given to places like Amazon, CC and Best Buy. I think you'll find the policy enforced differently in different forums here and even differently in the same forum somewhat depending on whether AVS and their sponsers sell the items being discussed. If you look in the Pioneer Kuro plasma threads, you'll see any pricing discussion (beyond MSRP) squashed pretty quickly. I've been surprised that they haven't put a stop to it in this thread, but either the moderators are more lenient in this forum or no complaints have been filed yet.

Personally, I'd like to at least have discussion of vendors freely allowed here even if price talk isn't allowed. I feel that the experiences of people here (both good and bad) are more valuable than at most other forums, so input on which places are good and bad to buy from are very useful. I'm more than happy to support AVS (I have bought from them in the past) and forum sponsors (I've bought a lot of cables from Blue Jeans Cable and made a purchase from Value Electronics), but the combination of price and service has to be competitive with the other options that are out there. Note that the price doesn't have to be the best price, but it does need to be competitive.

For those of you who had their televisions exchanged, did you have to be there when they delivered it, or can I have my wife be here and accept it? I am just worried my work schedule would conflict with my delivery.

I talked with Samsung customer service today after experiencing a few auto restart issues over the weekend (61A750). After she put me on hold for 5 minutes, she found the firmware update and offered to email it to me. She told me it was sent... except 7 hours later and my inbox is still empty :(

I talked with Samsung customer service today after experiencing a few auto restart issues over the weekend (61A750). After she put me on hold for 5 minutes, she found the firmware update and offered to email it to me. She told me it was sent... except 7 hours later and my inbox is still empty :(

It's.....it's on the support page for this TV. I didn't even bother calling about it once they put it up there. I'd get you the link, but I'm on my PDA. Nice setup, BTW.

I talked with Samsung customer service today after experiencing a few auto restart issues over the weekend (61A750). After she put me on hold for 5 minutes, she found the firmware update and offered to email it to me. She told me it was sent... except 7 hours later and my inbox is still empty :(

http://www.samsung.com/us/support/download/supportDown.do?group=televisions&type=televisions&subtype=dlptv&model_nm=HL61A750A1F&language=&cate_type=all&dType=D&mType=FM&vType=R&prd_ia_cd=02010300&disp_nm=HL61A750

Awesome! Thanks fellas.

For those of you who had their televisions exchanged, did you have to be there when they delivered it, or can I have my wife be here and accept it? I am just worried my work schedule would conflict with my delivery.
They should contact you before they get to ur house so either you will have enough time to leave work and meet them or have ur wife at home ready to meet them. They will set up the tv for u, i would suggest you try to use ur lunch break for it thas what i did on my first replacement set, look at the set turn it on make sure nothing was messed up during shipping, then they take ur old set away...it is really painless...they make it nice and easy for you. They will stick around to make sure the set is working to your liking too! Hope that helps

A legit extended warranty on my 750 for $150? I'm definitely interested.
Link?

Not handy at the moment but look for the first post selling Mack warranties in the "Extended Warranty" thread in this forum.

They should contact you before they get to ur house so either you will have enough time to leave work and meet them or have ur wife at home ready to meet them. They will set up the tv for u, i would suggest you try to use ur lunch break for it thas what i did on my first replacement set, look at the set turn it on make sure nothing was messed up during shipping, then they take ur old set away...it is really painless...they make it nice and easy for you. They will stick around to make sure the set is working to your liking too! Hope that helps

Thanks. That did help. And by the way I want to apologize for my previous rude and childish remarks.

I am seriously considering the purchase of a 5089 LED unit while they are still available. Any thoughts as to future problems (finding repair parts, service, or whatever) due to the fact that it is a discontinued model? For example, what if the LED light engine does fail. Will a replacement be available? Is the same light engine used in the new 750 series units?
Thanks for any suggestions. Have appreciated the information provided by this forum.
rturpin
From my understanding, the 2008 light source is different. In fact, the 2007 LEDs are rated at 20,000 hours, where as the 2008 LEDs are rated at 60,000 hours. They are also supposedly 40 % brighter. I have the 61A750. And it is beutiful! But it is quite big. You might want to check out this thread...

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=827799

Thanks. That did help. And by the way I want to apologize for my previous rude and childish remarks.

its all good man, don't even worry about it, glad that helped!

Is it that the larger the TV, the more the chance of bowing/slanting and other issues becomes prominent??

I read somewhere here that the light reflections in the black bars above/below the image on widescreen movies are def. on the 750s, and someone with a 650 also had them. Are they more rare on the 650s? I just want to minimize the chance of getting problems. I also don't want the 61" but more towards a 52-56" range. Heck, maybe even just the 50" 650 will do.

I have a 650 with no reflections.

I have a 650 with no reflections.


But others do, and some 750 owners do not.

Plus, I believe you have same geometry issues as some 750 owners?

Point being, neither series is immune.

But others do, and some 750 owners do not.

Plus, I believe you have same geometry issues as some 750 owners?

Point being, neither series is immune.

This is true.

Is it pretty uncommon to find a dlp set without noticeable geometry issues? I was at CC last night just checking out some sets and it was the first time I spent some time checking out DLP. There was noticeable bowing on almost all of the sets with the exception of maybe one or two of the DLP's. They had a Sony LCD setup next to it which made it even more evident, although I actually preferred the picture of the 750 that I saw over the Sony (sans geometry concerns).

I'm in the market for a good RPTV in the coming months and so far the LED Sammy's seem like my best bet. It's primary uses will be for gaming and blu-ray viewing. Seems like DLP is my only option for over 60" in size at an affordable price/lack of burn-in issues but the geometry issues concern me.

Having looked at a dozen sets I believe everyone of them have the same issues. With certain issues the degree varies somewhat but they are still there. The biggest variance is the person looking at the issue and how much it bothers them.

It's a given you are going to have convergence, tilt, black bar reflections and a few others. :) From the sets I have looked at the 61 inch sets appear to have much worse convergence than the smaller sets however.

Outside of the recycle issue all of these issues have been reported on the older model as well and to think they don't affect all of the new models seems rather silly to me.

I'm not knocking the set rather I think everyone simply needs to understand there are issues and to what degree they will or will not be acceptable to them. I have less than a week to decide if I'm willing to live with my set and I'm leaning towards keeping it. Outside the black bar reflections I'm happy as a lark and since the set isn't really for movies I may live with it.

I noticed the upper bar reflections only go up to about half the bar. Which is exactly where the image stops when you use one of the zoom modes. So I'm guessing they are somehow related. Like they are projecting the light in pretty much the same way for both modes. Being rather anal I'd like to send the set back just to let Samsung know it's a stupid issue.

Since I'm not really sure I want to start up with a whole another set of issues perhaps simply having their service man telling them he can't fix my set will be enough. :)

Having looked at a dozen sets I believe everyone of them have the same issues. With certain issues the degree varies somewhat but they are still there. The biggest variance is the person looking at the issue and how much it bothers them.
...
....
Since I'm not really sure I want to start up with a whole another set of issues perhaps simply having their service man telling them he can't fix my set will be enough. :)

Samsung authorized technician is expected to see my TV( after 4pm EST) for tilt and they are saying they'll replace BOARD?
Not sure what this means.

Also, what questions to ask? Do they have any tools etc to see and fix any other issues discussed in this forum?

I like the TV and want to keep it.

I really need some help here.

Samsung authorized technician is expected to see my TV( after 4pm EST) for tilt and they are saying they'll replace BOARD?
Not sure what this means.The tilt can be adjusted however it may end up being worse...

My service man just proclaimed the reflections in the black bars as "normal"... so it's off to Best Buy to see if I want to swap for another set, return it, etc.

Hold on to your hats. Sears.com is showing the HL67A750 as "in stock for delivery" for my zip-code, with the earliest delivery date as 5/20. For self pick-up, showing in store in 21-23 days.

See attached image. Does this TV really have a 50,000:1 contrast ratio, or is Best Buy full of crap?

My 61A750 had no problems that I could see (and I did look). The Service Manual has instructions for adjusting Vertical/Horizontal position and Tilt/Focus adjustment.

I finished recalibrating mine today using I1Pro, Calman V3, Getgray (DVD) fed with a Panasonic S97 HDMI 1080i out. The attached files show the results.

See attached image. Does this TV really have a 50,000:1 contrast ratio, or is Best Buy full of crap?


The Samsung service manual has 2500:1 but keep in mind with a DLP to some degree you can adjust the blacks. They are now measuring the true contrast ratio and not the dynamic contrast ratio but as pointed out to me earlier in this thread its all a bunch of bs anyway. That 650 produces absolute blacks. Not grey, black.

Hold on to your hats. Sears.com is showing the HL67A750 as "in stock for delivery" for my zip-code, with the earliest delivery date as 5/20. For self pick-up, showing in store in 21-23 days.

Looks like we might get the 7-10 day jump again. SWEET!

My 61A750 had no problems that I could see (and I did look). The Service Manual has instructions for adjusting Vertical/Horizontal position and Tilt/Focus adjustment.

I finished recalibrating mine today using I1Pro, Calman V3, Getgray (DVD) fed with a Panasonic S97 HDMI 1080i out. The attached files show the results.

In the 2007 thread someone posted the page(s) on how to adjust tilt. Can you scan those pages and post? Like those owners, I think If we all team up here we can come up with a process we can all do.

Just a note, I had the HLS5087W with the side shadow issue. I fixed it myself but the biggest thing was getting the light engine in there the way it was before. My suspicion is for tilt the light engine screws can be loosened to adjust the engine itself. Second would be adjusting the DMD board. If anyone else has a service manual, please help out here.

OK well I wanted LED but don't want 61" TV. Here's what I figure: I'll get the 50" or 56" DLP 650 series from online, get the cheaper extended warranty here on the board, and if I have any issues after delivery that are not related to shipping damage, I'll just have Samsung send a tech out to fix it. The smaller 650s can be had at for great prices, and the smaller the TV, the less of a chance the bowing/problems will be pronounced.

OK well I wanted LED but don't want 61" TV. Here's what I figure: I'll get the 50" or 56" DLP 650 series from online, get the cheaper extended warranty here on the board, and if I have any issues after delivery that are not related to shipping damage, I'll just have Samsung send a tech out to fix it. The smaller 650s can be had at for great prices, and the smaller the TV, the less of a chance the bowing/problems will be pronounced.

That's what I did. And I love this TV. Great picture. There is noticable bowing, but only if you're looking for it or for me when I pull up directv guide. But I can live. Having a tech come look at it anyway, just to see what he says and what he may or may not be able to do.

I got the 50. And the wait for the 72 continues. I knew I was on the bottom and top of the spectrum in terms of the two TVs I wanted, but I didn't realize when all this started that there would be no chance of either being an LED. Oh Well.

That's good news if the tilt can be adjusted...

Void your warranties, anyone? :D

(Maybe show the manual to a certified tech?)

That's what I did. And I love this TV. Great picture. There is noticable bowing, but only if you're looking for it or for me when I pull up directv guide. But I can live. Having a tech come look at it anyway, just to see what he says and what he may or may not be able to do.

I got the 50. And the wait for the 72 continues. I knew I was on the bottom and top of the spectrum in terms of the two TVs I wanted, but I didn't realize when all this started that there would be no chance of either being an LED. Oh Well.

You have the HL50a650 and noticable bowing? Geez there's no escape lol. How about the issue with light reflections on the top/bottom bars of widescreen movies? Do you notice them too?

my TV just got here, didn't notice any bowing yet on a quick 4:3 and ESPN HD ticker, but only a quick look. it also has the latest firmware 1004 already, and manufacture date of 04-04-2008

You have the HL50a650 and noticable bowing? Geez there's no escape lol. How about the issue with light reflections on the top/bottom bars of widescreen movies? Do you notice them too?
Haven't noticed the light reflections, but haven't really looked for it. When I watch, I'm watching the movie not the black area. However, I see how if you notice it, you woudl always notice it.

My first post.
Thats good news prophetizer, good luck with the new set.
The second or third round making the showroom floor.
I have read this thread from beginning to end about three times now, and find myself checking back about once a hour all day long. Is that an obsession or not??
I hope to pull the trigger on a 750 when the Gov money arrives in a week or two.
HH Gregg here in Indy if they will throw in the stand, if not I'll go with Crutchfield.
I was thinking about the fact that some have had issues and some have not.
I have not researched this but wondered if its possable that there maybe multiple manufacture sites where one may be good and another may not be so good?
Just a thought...
I am so ready for this set... I have a 12 year old Hitachi 50 inch CRT that looks not so good now, so I don't know how there will be any way I will not be floored by the picture of the 61A750. I can't wait!

Anyone have news on the 72"???

My 61A750 had no problems that I could see (and I did look). The Service Manual has instructions for adjusting Vertical/Horizontal position and Tilt/Focus adjustment.

I finished recalibrating mine today using I1Pro, Calman V3, Getgray (DVD) fed with a Panasonic S97 HDMI 1080i out. The attached files show the results.

So there is a focus adjustment? I thought that was not possible with DLPs. Could you post the pages referring to these adjustments?

Anyone have news on the 72"???
I think all that is known is that Samsung said June, Amazon says June 1. But the same is true for 67, which on Sears is looking like May 20th, which would be closely in line with the 50, 56, and 61. They were supposed to be April and came out late March. 3-4 weeks.

So there is a focus adjustment? I thought that was not possible with DLPs. Could you post the pages referring to these adjustments?

Samsung authorized technician came to look at slanting issue in my TV. He says its more to do with TV cabinet than anything else and there is no easy fix. I have very slight ( 1/8 th inch ) tilt. If you push cabinet it will fix but will be back after that.
According to him, its not focus issue and even if he tries to fix, slight change in focus will have bigger impact and probably make it worse.

I am OK with that tilt and a bit of bowing which I can hardly notice unless i am very careful and close.

Hope this helps.

Samsung authorized technician came to look at slanting issue in my TV. He says its more to do with TV cabinet than anything else and there is no easy fix. I have very slight ( 1/8 th inch ) tilt. If you push cabinet it will fix but will be back after that.
According to him, its not focus issue and even if he tries to fix, slight change in focus will have bigger impact and probably make it worse.

I am OK with that tilt and a bit of bowing which I can hardly notice unless i am very careful and close.

Hope this helps.

I have over a half inch slant. I could easily live with 1/8" but it makes me think Im going to have to get a swap from Samsung.

I am still not sure if 2008 Samsungs have DC4, but I can tell you for sure that 2008 Mitsubishis do:
From their report:
The UHP-lamp-based DLP line will include three series this year including the 735, 736 and 835 series. All offer 1080p HDTV resolution, Texas Instruments' new Dark Chip 4 digital micromirror device, an improved five-color wheel, thinner frames, increased brightness, HDMI-CEC control and 3-D-ready capability. All DLP models will also include the company's six-color processor to enhance color saturation.

http://www.twice.com/article/CA6553215.html?nid=3186

Just out of curiosity, how does mitsu's 5 color wheel compare to the LED DLP in terms of RBE? My biggest fear with DLP sets has always been seeing RBE down the line or having guests over that could not tolerate my TV (hence why I've been leaning towards the LED's).

Are the mitsu's just as susceptible as the latest bulb version of the samsungs? (which I assume are worse off than the LEDs when it comes to RBE).

So there is a focus adjustment? I thought that was not possible with DLPs. Could you post the pages referring to these adjustments?

Here they are hope they help

Here they are hope they help


Thanks for the quick reply! That is definately some good info you posted. Although I don't plan on opening my TV during the warranty period, I will definately want to get my hands on a service manual.

Are focus and convergence two different things? I wonder if this focus adjustment would align the convergence on areas of the screen that exhibit misalignment?

Also keep in mind, Looks to me like this is the 750 manual. The 650 most likely will look a bit different although the steps will be similar.

One more thing, once you pull the light engine out it can be a real pain to get back in there, not pysically but getting the screen straightened out.

Basically though I think some of the slant issues can be somewhat addresses just by moving the light engine around, If not the next step would be adjusting the DMD.

Yeaaah that pic came out looking nothing like how it looks in person.
That was a crappy handheld shot which came out blurry and over exposed. What you're referring to - I don't see at all while watching.

What is the height of the TV stand that your DLP is sitting on?
Any problems with vertical off-angle viewing?

I really like all the features of the new 750 SLP, but I'm concerned about the off-angle viewing limitations. My family room has a built-in platform about 9" high and we plan to set a TV stand on it that's 19" high -- upon which will go either the 750 DLP or a 50" plasma. Viewing distance is around 9 ft, but I think we'll be sitting below the horizontal center of the 750's screen, so I'm worried about being too low and not seeing the full brightness of the 750's display.
These decisions always involve so many considerations and too many compromises. The 750 DLP's features (120Hz, 1080p/24/60, etc) are the best package available right now and at a good price, which makes it a very strong contender against my strong bias favoring plasma.

ok first does the black fan have to come off like it looks like in the pic?2nd how can doing this be detectable by samsung i mean is there a sticker/seal you have to break once all screws are off to shift dmd?and last is the metal which you loosen them 3 screws the actual dmd?just wanna be sure im moving dmd and not breakin /moving wrong piece.thanks

One more thing, once you pull the light engine out it can be a real pain to get back in there, not pysically but getting the screen straightened out.
B But according to the pic/directions you dont take anything out only loosen them 3 screws?

ok im inside tv at the 3 srews u lossen only.there are 3 white plastic cap looking things do they screw out pull out or are they the screws?instruction dont mention the 3 white things.

That third pic has the light engine out.

ok im inside tv at the 3 srews u lossen only.there are 3 white plastic cap looking things do they screw out pull out or are they the screws?instruction dont mention the 3 white things.

Pics man, pics

Remember you are the first one in there most likely.

ya but in pics the spot where it points out the 3 screws to loosen there are 3 plastic white headless things no screws.do the whites thing pop out like covers over the screws?

ya this is super easy to access but i dont wanna yank them white pieces out before i know whats up.

No man I mean take pics

If your not sure, done do it until someone can help you. Im having a Samsung guy next weds. I am going to watch him and learn, that way I dont whack the warranty.

Post pics and maybe someone can make sense of it. Also, take pics of everything you do in case you forget.

ok the white things pop out wiggel very gently straight back can spin to help backout.

thanks to poster of this you can get it tilt wise perfect but dont move it w/hands use 2 flat head screw drivers 2 evenly slide it where u want.

Holding breath........ :D

I am still not sure if 2008 Samsungs have DC4, but I can tell you for sure that 2008 Mitsubishis do:
From their report:
The UHP-lamp-based DLP line will include three series this year including the 735, 736 and 835 series. All offer 1080p HDTV resolution, Texas Instruments' new Dark Chip 4 digital micromirror device, an improved five-color wheel, thinner frames, increased brightness, HDMI-CEC control and 3-D-ready capability. All DLP models will also include the company's six-color processor to enhance color saturation.

http://www.twice.com/article/CA6553215.html?nid=3186


Thanks for the link.

NOt sure if the lasers have DC4 from the article--you'd think so, but there's no knowing the mind of these companies.

Notice the Diamond line 65 and 73 inchers are $3400 and $4700 respectively. I'd expect the lasers to be a few hundred higher than that. If the 73 inch is really "all that" I might be willing to go over 5K for one.

I'm also waiting on the 67 inch Sammy LED DLP.

now my tilt is 100% perfect not off at all.And after this fix the bowings almost gone still there but have to look for it now.I think with the tilt off before was like over a quarter off that the bowing was more pronounced at least was on mine.Good luck guys just take your time.I can post a few tips.One loosen the 3 screws as little as possible the looser they are then the dmd moves way to fast and far.And tighten gradually one screw on left a little then right then other on left so it tightens evenly.Also be careful the 3 screws are VERY tight at start dont strip them or you are screwed lol.I had to push hard directly toward the screw and hold tv at same time so it didnt fall off stand.Btw i did alone no mirrior needed.I just would check grid adjust check adjust etc till was perfect.Each time i had closer to perfect i would tighten the 3 screws a touch.

I am still not sure if 2008 Samsungs have DC4, but I can tell you for sure that 2008 Mitsubishis do:
From their report:
The UHP-lamp-based DLP line will include three series this year including the 735, 736 and 835 series. All offer 1080p HDTV resolution, Texas Instruments' new Dark Chip 4 digital micromirror device, an improved five-color wheel, thinner frames, increased brightness, HDMI-CEC control and 3-D-ready capability. All DLP models will also include the company's six-color processor to enhance color saturation.

http://www.twice.com/article/CA6553215.html?nid=3186

Looks like May for the 835 Diamond series. So we should be able to compare the mitsu 73 and the Sammy 72. Problem is the lasers won't be until summer. More waiting.

so for xbox 360, would VGA or component be better. i used VGA on my LCD, was much better on the westinghouse. i do notice there are alot of options i'm not familiar with, but also i haven't cracked open the manual, so really, i suppose i should do that before posting this

My family room has a built-in platform about 9" high and we plan to set a TV stand on it that's 19" high -- upon which will go either the 750 DLP or a 50" plasma. Viewing distance is around 9 ft, but I think we'll be sitting below the horizontal center of the 750's screen, so I'm worried about being too low and not seeing the full brightness of the 750's display.

Well, I think that viewing height is certainly above the ideal. You can probably mitigate any disadvantages with picture settings, and maybe shimming the back of the TV up a bit, so it angles down towards you a bit. However, the best thing to do would probably ditch that 19" stand and figure something out that is like 9" or 10". When in doubt... do the right thing!

Well, I think that viewing height is certainly above the ideal. You can probably mitigate any disadvantages with picture settings, and maybe shimming the back of the TV up a bit, so it angles down towards you a bit. However, the best thing to do would probably ditch that 19" stand and figure something out that is like 9" or 10". When in doubt... do the right thing!

Thanks Mike.
I had also given some thought to shimming the back of the TV.
My viewing distance is actually 12 feet; measured it last night.

now my tilt is 100% perfect not off at all.And after this fix the bowings almost gone still there but have to look for it now.I think with the tilt off before was like over a quarter off that the bowing was more pronounced at least was on mine.Good luck guys just take your time.I can post a few tips.One loosen the 3 screws as little as possible the looser they are then the dmd moves way to fast and far.And tighten gradually one screw on left a little then right then other on left so it tightens evenly.Also be careful the 3 screws are VERY tight at start dont strip them or you are screwed lol.I had to push hard directly toward the screw and hold tv at same time so it didnt fall off stand.Btw i did alone no mirrior needed.I just would check grid adjust check adjust etc till was perfect.Each time i had closer to perfect i would tighten the 3 screws a touch.


Did you play with focus at all?

now my tilt is 100% perfect not off at all.And after this fix the bowings almost gone still there but have to look for it now.I think with the tilt off before was like over a quarter off that the bowing was more pronounced at least was on mine.Good luck guys just take your time.I can post a few tips.One loosen the 3 screws as little as possible the looser they are then the dmd moves way to fast and far.And tighten gradually one screw on left a little then right then other on left so it tightens evenly.Also be careful the 3 screws are VERY tight at start dont strip them or you are screwed lol.I had to push hard directly toward the screw and hold tv at same time so it didnt fall off stand.Btw i did alone no mirrior needed.I just would check grid adjust check adjust etc till was perfect.Each time i had closer to perfect i would tighten the 3 screws a touch.

So you just used page 1 from those pics right?

You didnt happen to take pics along the way did you?

You have the HL50a650 and noticable bowing? Geez there's no escape lol.

I think that's what I've been saying all along. 1) geometry/focus problems are a crapshoot 2) how bad they are is a crapshoot 3) if they are bad enough they are going to be quite noticable anywhere from 50" to 72"+.

I am still not sure if 2008 Samsungs have DC4, but I can tell you for sure that 2008 Mitsubishis do:
From their report:
The UHP-lamp-based DLP line will include three series this year including the 735, 736 and 835 series. All offer 1080p HDTV resolution, Texas Instruments' new Dark Chip 4 digital micromirror device, an improved five-color wheel, thinner frames, increased brightness, HDMI-CEC control and 3-D-ready capability. All DLP models will also include the company's six-color processor to enhance color saturation.

http://www.twice.com/article/CA6553215.html?nid=3186

So what happened to TI telling companies they couldn't say what chip they are using? What a bunch of B.S. Here our sets are already being sold and in our homes and we don't know what we have. Hopefully this is a good sign because how could Sammy or TI let one company get that much of an advantage over another?

so for xbox 360, would VGA or component be better. i used VGA on my LCD, was much better on the westinghouse. i do notice there are alot of options i'm not familiar with, but also i haven't cracked open the manual, so really, i suppose i should do that before posting this

If you look at this thread, lots of people had goofy issues with component. I even posted videos. Besides, you can't get 1080p HDDVD playback with component. People that say component works better have issues with their TV or IRE settings. This TV shouldn't be one of those (I'm speaking for the 750 here).

If you look at this thread, lots of people had goofy issues with component. I even posted videos. Besides, you can't get 1080p HDDVD playback with component. People that say component works better have issues with their TV or IRE settings. This TV shouldn't be one of those (I'm speaking for the 750 here).

well, i originally asked because i tried my 360 on VGA last night, the left side was just a tad fuzzy, and i only think i noticed because i was looking for any problem i could see after reading this entire thread. but i did not notice this with my ps3 through HDMI. now, it was just barely visable and only on text, to be honest, sure i would like it perfect, but for now it's ok. after i get everything setup, i might have a tech out, but who knows, they might mess it up more since i don't seem to be having any of the other issues yet. maybe i'll just get a new Elite with hdmi, wanted 1 for a while now

ya its easy but make sure you also center the picture with horizontal and vertical or you will have to redo it.Also the pic can get way out of wack before you get it right thats no big deal just play with it untill you get it.I didnt take pics because the ones he posted is all that is needed.

Hi ALl. I've been reading for awhile. I'm about to purchase my first HD tv set. new house = new tv! Anyways, i've always seen the HL5087s LED dlps as the most affordable yet best picture for my sub 1500 price range. Now i notice that the newer HL50a650 models are around the same price, a bit more, but don't state that they are the LED based.

So for the price of 1500ish, which is better? Is there another that one would recommend that i'm not looking at? Thanks in advance

650s are lamp and 750s are LED...

Hi ALl. I've been reading for awhile. I'm about to purchase my first HD tv set. new house = new tv! Anyways, i've always seen the HL5087s LED dlps as the most affordable yet best picture for my sub 1500 price range. Now i notice that the newer HL50a650 models are around the same price, a bit more, but don't state that they are the LED based.

So for the price of 1500ish, which is better? Is there another that one would recommend that i'm not looking at? Thanks in advance

HL-T5687S at "big river" for just over $1500. If it were me, I'd go for the biggest bang for the buck, and 56" is better then 50"! Heck, you are this close, throw in a few more bucks and get a 61" 6187s or 61A750 model!

I am going to be receiving my 61A750 in a couple of weeks now . How should I go about checking for bowing, tilting and the other issues everyone has talked about? Thanks in advance for any advice. What other issues should I look for before accepting the set?

I was considering purchasing a Samsung HL-T6187S but then found out that its newer brother is the Samsung HL-61A750. Does anyone know how the two compare? What are the differences? I don't care much about extra features like PIP or 3 HDMI connections but want the brightest & clearest picture possible in the 61" $2,000 range. I'm also interested if either set has a better SD picture since I'll continue to use my Pioneer DVR and many channels I view are still SD only (unfortunately). Thanks in advance for any information you might have.

Wow, just saw big river having the 61a750 below 1800. I've been off the thread for maybe 5 days and it's dropped about 400 in that time. Something happen or is this a natural drop? And have the screen stopping restarting been basically fixed with the firmware update?

It's driving me nuts, i have nowhere to put one of these til my new entertainment center is built, however, that's slow going because the guy is loaded with work. Meanwhile, I seem to have missed the boat on the x87 clearances. But if all is well and the 750 is down to 17 something, i think i'll be OK waiting a bit :)

Hmmm, I just checked big river and don't see the 61A750 at that price.

Same - I'm guessing cboath maybe mixed it up with the 650?

Same - I'm guessing cboath maybe mixed it up with the 650?
Not sure if Amazon does this or not, but some sites keep track of products you visit (Amazon does this part for sure) and keep lowering the price each time or day you look at the product hoping you'll bite at some point. They obviously stop lowering the price before they are selling at a loss.

Not sure if Amazon does this or not, but some sites keep track of products you visit (Amazon does this part for sure) and keep lowering the price each time or day you look at the product hoping you'll bite at some point. They obviously stop lowering the price before they are selling at a loss.

Wow that's pretty cool.
btw, $1,877 is the price I'm seeing on their site now with "Only 1 left in stock - order soon" :)

I have a 56" DLP HLR model from 2005 that Best Buy isn't able to fix so they are going to give me a new equivalant DLP. The guy tried to dump and old HLT model on me, but I causually mentioned the HL56A650 to him and the manger approved it. I've read most of this thread and have seen rather positive comments about these new sets, but is there anything else that I should know about? I should be getting the set tomorrow. :D

I ordered the HL50A650 from thehighdefinitionstore.com for 1,129 itll be here friday anyone seen issues with the 50" 650 im upgrading from a 37" Olevia 537LCD doesnt seem like the 50" is a popular model everyone has the 61" 750 i dont have all that much money to upgrade with and going from 37"s to 50"s is a big jump and the price is really good. Just wondering if anyone has seen bowing or the power cycling issue with this model.

I am going to be receiving my 61A750 in a couple of weeks now . How should I go about checking for bowing, tilting and the other issues everyone has talked about? Thanks in advance for any advice. What other issues should I look for before accepting the set?

There's a grid picture you can download some place and play it through the flash drive on your set. Or you can simply tune to channels that tend often to have info bars going across the screen, especially the top part, such as CNBC or ESPN. My set bows down slightly from the top, but within spec.

A couple of days ago Amazon had the 750 for under 1800, it's 2119 now. It appears the price changes like airline tickets. Daily or hourly....

There's a grid picture you can download some place and play it through the flash drive on your set. Or you can simply tune to channels that tend often to have info bars going across the screen, especially the top part, such as CNBC or ESPN. My set bows down slightly from the top, but within spec.

If you go back to my post on the tilt/focus pages from the service manual
you'll see instructions on generating the internal crosshatch to check or repair alignment.

BE SURE AND DON'T SELECT "CALIBRATE" OR YOU'LL HAVE TO HAVE THE SET CALIBRATED!!!

Has anyone dealt with returning Sammy's a750. I have read their policy but want first hand accounts. Thanks Also returning to big river- any advice or problems with their Extended warranty

Has anyone dealt with returning Sammy's a750. I have read their policy but want first hand accounts. Thanks Also returning to big river- any advice or problems with their Extended warranty

Crutchfield will exchange a defective TV within 30 days with no shipping costs at all. If you say there's a defect and want to exchange it, they'll do it no questions asked. In fact, they'll be very apologetic about it.

I originally bought a 5087S for 1299 but when I wanted to exchange it because it had terrible bowing, they had no more in stock and said it was discontinued. They only had the 750 in stock and offered it to me for only $400 more (1699). Free shipping, free stand, awesome customer service.

I am going to be receiving my 61A750 in a couple of weeks now . How should I go about checking for bowing, tilting and the other issues everyone has talked about? Thanks in advance for any advice. What other issues should I look for before accepting the set?

pm me ur email and i will email u some grid patterns to use on a usb flash drive...

OK looks like I won a 56A650 off ebay. Brand new, it was such a great deal with shipping included that I couldn't pass up the bid. Over $600 off what Circuit City had in the area for this set (with tax). Seller had 100% feedback on shipping TVs and electronics with over 200 customers.

Hopefully I'll have minimal bowing or problems as such, but if I do, I'll have Samsung send a tech out and fix it. Wish me luck. I'm going to the extended warranty thread now here on this board.

Well, I decided I'm going to bite and preorder the 67" LED tonight. I was really going to wait a while for a TV but my current pioneer RPTV is having some issues. Damn GTA4 and it's addicting gameplay :)

Anyways, I heard mention of an extended warranty thread? I'll try to find where it's at.

my TV just got here, didn't notice any bowing yet on a quick 4:3 and ESPN HD ticker, but only a quick look. it also has the latest firmware 1004 already, and manufacture date of 04-04-2008

Similar situation here; a friend just bought the 750 at Best Buy a couple of days ago, with a manufacture date of April 2008, and figuring that it needed the software update, I tried to go through the procedure when I got a message on the TV stating that the software was already current (1004). Unit is solid, picture does not look "bowed" or tilted at all (I am not a perfectionist, however, and neither is his family but none of us see any odd image issues as described in all the posts here). Also on the cover of the Quick Start guide is a reference to *both* model numbers HL61A750 AND HL67A750, the latter of which has not even been released yet. Did they purchase something unique here, or simply a later production of the same TV?

The HL67A750's are the 67" version of these sets. They're set to come out later this month i believe.

There's a grid picture you can download some place and play it through the flash drive on your set. Or you can simply tune to channels that tend often to have info bars going across the screen, especially the top part, such as CNBC or ESPN. My set bows down slightly from the top, but within spec.

any possibility of sending the link to this?

Similar situation here; a friend just bought the 750 at Best Buy a couple of days ago, with a manufacture date of April 2008, and figuring that it needed the software update, I tried to go through the procedure when I got a message on the TV stating that the software was already current (1004). Unit is solid, picture does not look "bowed" or tilted at all (I am not a perfectionist, however, and neither is his family but none of us see any odd image issues as described in all the posts here). Also on the cover of the Quick Start guide is a reference to *both* model numbers HL61A750 AND HL67A750, the latter of which has not even been released yet. Did they purchase something unique here, or simply a later production of the same TV?

well, i put in my DVE disc in my 360 last night to look at the geometry on my VGA port. i did notice slight overscan on the top, just barely, and a slight tilt from left to right going down, just slightly. i wonder if this is something a service tech could fix? or i could fix?

i still need to test my inputs. i noticed playing a bluray on ps3 through hdmi, there was no difference between using 16:9 or justscan.

i can't find it in this thread, but i'm pretty sure it was mentioned, wasn't there something that could only be done on the HDMI3 port, that you couldn't do on HDMI1 or 2?

i can't find it in this thread, but i'm pretty sure it was mentioned, wasn't there something that could only be done on the HDMI3 port, that you couldn't do on HDMI1 or 2?

Was it the 1080/24P movie mode or something like that?

i can't find it in this thread, but i'm pretty sure it was mentioned, wasn't there something that could only be done on the HDMI3 port, that you couldn't do on HDMI1 or 2?

Renaming that input to PC gives you some additional sizing options I believe.

It WAS about 1789 or something like that when i looked yesterday, it's over 21 right now.

I did a search on 61a750. It returns 4 things, and none are 650's. It returns a 61a750, a stand, and 5687 and a 67a750.

The big thing i DID notice, is that the MSRP went UP to 2699 for the 61. Yesterday, it was at it 20+% off and still had the original MSRP of 2399. I guess our pathetic economy and dollar force samsung to up the price :(

I guess I'm a little disappointed that the LED model still outputs over 200 watts even though there's no bulb. The regular colorwheel DLPs output about 230 watts looking at last year's specs. I would have expected something like 130 watts or something like that assuming the bulb is rated at 100 watts or so to project the image on the colorwheel models.

The actual replacement bulbs have definately come down in price anyway from what they used to be ($300, now about half that), and with some of these excellent extended warrany prices (which include bulb replacements) for up to 5 years after Sammy's warranty expires, I'm basically covered that whole time for $1XX dolars. The significant price difference (between 650 & 750) and slightly smaller screen size than the HL61a750 (I didn't want 61" cause it's slightly too large, 56" TV had a slightly lower price due to screen size drop) made me choose the HL56A650. Ebay had a great deal there and may have others at the same price (with shipping & insurance included, 100% feedback). I'd suggest checking it for those of you looking this route.

Ebay had a great deal there and may have others at the same price (with shipping & insurance included, 100% feedback). I'd suggest checking it for those of you looking this route.In most cases purchasing through eBay you won't have the manufacturer's warranty unless Samsung states they are an authorized dealer (only the original owner has a warranty). Even then many manufacturers forbid dealers to sell via eBay for a variety of reasons.

Also many third-party warrantees piggyback onto the original warranty so they may be invalid as well. Some companies are so bad (like Monster) that they will refuse to service their products even if you are willing to pay for the repair.

That's why many of those sellers offer third-party warrantees which will cover the item even though the manufacturer won't. If you do buy their warrantee you can only deal with them and if you don't you just might have no one to deal with. :)

In most cases purchasing through eBay you won't have the manufacturer's warranty unless Samsung states they are an authorized dealer (only the original owner has a warranty). Even then many manufacturers forbid dealers to sell via eBay for a variety of reasons.

Also many third-party warrantees piggyback onto the original warranty so they may be invalid as well. Some companies are so bad (like Monster) that they will refuse to service their products even if you are willing to pay for the repair.

That's why many of those sellers offer third-party warrantees which will cover the item even though the manufacturer won't. If you do buy their warrantee you can only deal with them and if you don't you just might have no one to deal with. :)

I checked Samsung's warranty page for this before I purchased on ebay:

http://www.samsung.com/us/support/repairpolicy/servicePolicyWarrantySearch.do?group=televisions&type=televisions&subtype=dlptv&model_nm=HL56A650C1F&prd_ia_cd=02010300&disp_nm=HL56A650&mType=&dType=D&vType=R

.. and didn't see anything on there that states the warranty is void or not valid if purchased from an unauthorized dealer. The description of the ebay vendors is this, so it is still boxed brand new:

"OUR PRICE INCLUDES SHIPPING AND INSURANCE
THIS IS A BRAND NEW FACTORY SEALED 56" SAMSUNG DLP TV
NOT REFURBISHED
WE SHIP WITH A PRIVATE FREIGHT CARRIER-NOT UPS"

I would have thought that if Samsung does hold true that they don't honor their warranty because of who/where purchased from, it should show up on the actual warranty page. Why couldn't I have them fix something within that first year (if need be) of their warranty at their warranty expense (not mine). I would argue with them stating that no where on their site (and warranty page) they state this exclusion if not purchased from "authorized" dealers.

.. and didn't see anything on there that states the warranty is void or not valid if purchased from an unauthorized dealer.Many fall into this trap. The catch is the warranty is only valid when purchased and used in the United States by the original consumer purchaser as stated in their warranty...

http://product.samsung.com/cgi-bin/nabc/support/warranty/b2c_warranty_main.jsp?eUser=

You aren't the original purchaser when it's sold by an unauthorized seller... they are. In essence you are the second owner and it is being sold to you as used (no warranty). Call Samsung up and ask... better yet have something in writing.

It's also stated within your link...

"This SAMSUNG brand product, as supplied and distributed by SAMSUNG and delivered new, in the original carton to the original consumer purchaser, is warranted by SAMSUNG against manufacturing defects in materials and workmanship for a limited warranty period of:"

So you're telling me "authorized" vendors are still classified as "vendors" but "unathorized" vendors are classified as "consumers."

Yet in reality, both are still "resellers" of boxed, brand new Samsung equipment. Why couldn't I argue with Samsung stating I am the original consumer that bought the unit brand new??

Can anyone confirm that samsung is raising the price of the 61 to 2699?? It's been 2399 since release.

So you're telling me "authorized" vendors are still classified as "vendors" but "unathorized" vendors are classified as "consumers."

Yet in reality, both are still "resellers" of boxed, brand new Samsung equipment. Why couldn't I argue with Samsung stating I am the original consumer that bought the unit brand new??

You can spin it however you want to them, but when the rubber hits the road and you have an issue and have to show paperwork proving date of purchase (you could get this whether you deal with Samsung or a 3rd party warranty company), you're likely to have problems. From my understanding they (Samsung or warranty company) usually don't make you show that paperwork until the actual repair is done. You may be fine, but on something as delicate as a bulb-based DLP, I sure wouldn't do it.

So you're telling me "authorized" vendors are still classified as "vendors" but "unathorized" vendors are classified as "consumers."I think the easiest way to understand the issue is... the only person covered by the manufacturer's warranty is the original purchaser (from an authorized dealer). If someone else (an individual, company, whomever) sells you the item the warranty (for you) is null and void as you are not the original owner.

It doesn't matter if the item is brand new. The warranty covers the first person who purchases it from the authorized dealer and only them. So when they take possession (to sell it to you) they become the original owner and have a valid warranty. The moment they sell it to you the warranty is null and void as stated in the terms of warranty. The original purchaser no longer owns or uses the item.

You can argue all you want... all they will ask for is a sales receipt from an authorized dealer. If you don't have one you aren't the original owner. How could you be?

So you're telling me "authorized" vendors are still classified as "vendors" but "unathorized" vendors are classified as "consumers."

Yet in reality, both are still "resellers" of boxed, brand new Samsung equipment. Why couldn't I argue with Samsung stating I am the original consumer that bought the unit brand new??


In a court of law, you would win against the manufacturer, but likely lose attorney's fees. Are you willing to spend $thousands$ on attorney's fees for a $2000 set. Bottom line: you lose.

Tilt question:

Is it such a big deal to shim the back or front of the 750's in order to tilt them to the ideal vertical angle? Any detrimental effects or limits to the degree of tilt? I wouldn't think so, but I don't really know.

I am going to be receiving my 61A750 in a couple of weeks now . How should I go about checking for bowing, tilting and the other issues everyone has talked about? Thanks in advance for any advice. What other issues should I look for before accepting the set?

Wow. Thanks to Wopino I have all the images needed to test on my new set coming soon. And to think that I had Samsung repair the issue with the ((()))
marks on my screen. That seems to be the least of my concerns after running those test images. I ALSO HAD THE PINK V!!!! Not sure if it was before or after all the repairs. Seems like I also have a bit of tilt from left to right. Does it look within tolerance? I can see the whole number 2 on the left side of the screen but can only see half of it on the right side. On the reflection image what am I looking for? I am guessing the reflecting light bleeding into the black bar right? Also it looks like my covergence is off right? Should I be seeing green and red in the white grid lines? Sorry for such large pictures but I wanted the pictures to be as close up as possible.

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y192/peja43916/gridtest003copy.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y192/peja43916/gridtest004copy.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y192/peja43916/gridtest005copy.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y192/peja43916/gridtest006copy.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y192/peja43916/gridtest007copy.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y192/peja43916/gridtest009copy.jpg