Oh... I will, lol. ...but mostly I'll just exchange it at BB since that's where I picked it up from. Basically the plastic "straps" have dug into the box and there are scrunches on about half of the corners... and it's missing one of those plastic box holders near the bottom of the box. I saw this when the BB guy rolled it out to me, but I didn't say anything since this was shipped from the warehouse and I know my store doesn't have any others to exchange with right now... but I'll start the exchange process if I find anything wrong with it when I open the box.

... I know nearly all the BB customer service people by first name... and they know me as well. lol. ;)

You got 61 or 67???

We've abused the 67" (not really) but, it's hanging on the wall right now with DLP-2 mounts and looking good!

Never lay it flat, the boy that helped us load the truck said, "If we lay it down it will fit better".

I said, are you "effen" crazy you should never lay a Projection TV flat...give me that box!

Watched them load a 50+" plasma for Tom & Tom while removing the box and smashing it into the front seat.

I'm posting about the first 67" on this board, while they're trying to get a refund.

Peace
MR

I have the 67" now... with the beat up box as well.

((long story cut short... at least about as short as I can make it at this point, lol))

--------Story Start---------------------------------------

Bought a Mits WD-52525 about 3.5yrs ago with BB PSP...

after a few "repairs" the service center even said it's a crap TV, lol... so BB offered "junk out exchange" for about $1800 (I paid about $4000 originally)... after some complaining and "dealing", they upped the exchange to $2299.99 the price of the 61" LED Sammy at the time...

...I accpeted of course since I wanted the 61" LED and it was priced at 2299.

...but we had some slight GEO issues and a possible new "no signal issue" with firmware v1004 so on day 29 (5-20-08) we returned the set for an exchange with the 67"... I paid the extra 200 plus tax (out of pocket) ((2299 vs 2499)) for the 67" set so we could do the sole order and get the 67" shipped from the warehouse.

...The 67" arrived today at BB... and my 12% off BB coupons arrived on the 21st, lol. So they applied the 12% (but in a funny way) so that I got my $200 plus tax refunded... so now my 67" set cost $2299.99. Of course I bought another $400 PSP for the set, but I say it's a good trade since I basically upgraded for "free" from a 3.5yr old 52" Mits DLP to a new LED 67".

... now if the 67" will just drop to below $2000 so that I can get a $50 refund on my PSP before the 30 days are up I'd be happier... but I'm still happy. ((assuming no issues with the 67" of course)) ;)

-------Story End----------------------------------------


As a final thought... I know the BB PSP plans are bit expensive, but I've always had good luck with getting good exchanges on a few of the products I've bought them for, the 52" Mits exchange is just the latest (and biggest). I like being able to walk into a BB and speak with my local managers and basically get my way... where I think I'd lose a lot of leverage if I went with a Mack or other warranty.

... fighting with a manager in the middle of the store works on so many levels... and it's fun too. ;)

You might have issues with something other than these settings. The gamma and white settings did wonders for our slight green tint.Gamma has no effect on colors so that's not it. Setting it to +2 just lightens the entire image and helps mask the overly green settings. Because of the Gamma or other settings the image is rather flat.

Anyone else try these settings?

Quick report on my 67"... I hate to bring some bad news but....

I had (at first) what looked like a "tilt" issue... but I found that it was adjustable (in a way)... if I stand in front of the set, place both my hands on the top of the TV about 3ft apart I can push towards the rear with one hand and pull towards the front with my other hand... this allows the screen to slid inside the frame (keeping mostly straight) and allowing me to adjust the angle of the inside mirror. By doing this I was able to get a near pefect straight image. The TV seems to stay where I put it... but if I do any moving of the TV this "fine adjustment" will need to be done every time... I would think even if someone bumps the TV I'll have to "readjust".

Another note... my 61" set had "hour glass" bowing in 4:3... this one has the opposite... although not nearly as bad... so instead of warping toward the inside of a 4:3 image, the sides warp out.. very slight though. I've found my screen is pushing "out" instead of "in" the closer I get to the center... again I can press a finger into the center of the screen and "fix" this... but of course it doesn't stay.

Also... YES, this set DOES have the "black bar bleeding" of bright objects (both upper and lower bleeding, just like the 61"... although lower bleeding is much harder to see). The bleed penetrates just as much as the 61"... but seems to be "dimmer".... but at this point I don't have time to play with color/contrast/etc settings so this could get better or worse once I adjust the set.

I've already had what seemed to be a "hand shake" issue via HDMI. My HD cable box entering an Onkyo 605 AVR via component and being converted to the HDMI out of the Onkyo... only displayed a "blue" screen at first. After restarting the Onkyo the image finally arrived. This was standard a standard def basic cable channel. This TV seems to have firmware version 1004... I think I heard there was a 1005.3 available?... can anyone provide a download link???


So far it's better than the 61"... but it does come with some problems. The blue screen I'll chalk up to being the first try at getting all the hardware talking... if it happens again though I'll get more worried if I'm running firmware 1005.3 or later.

As for the outward bowing... again this is very slight and you don't see it unless you're looking hard for it so this is OK as well.

I'm still trying to decide if my frame adjusting tilt "feature" is good or bad... on the one hand the TV will need adjustment from time to time... but on the other, I can at least adjust it... where if the screen was "locked down" I'd be screwed. So it's a plus with a minus.... I guess. ((can anyone else do this... or should I consider this a bonus or bad set???))

If someone can direct me to the "best" picture settings numbers we currently know of, I'll try to adjust the set and see how things go.

... off to get some sleep.... I work another 12 tonight.

Directbuy is a horrible scam and Tomanik should be banned...

Agreed.. Give me Netflix and 67 inch DLP/HT system and no need to go to the theater, unless you have a cute date.

I wasn't talking about "home" theater movie owners. I was talking about the $14.00 a ticket cinema theater owners. I had three multiplex cinemas within 10-miles of me. Now there's one. The others are vacant lots. I haven't "gone to the movies" in over two years. With 67" HDTV's and HD content over cable, satellite, blu-ray/HD DVD and digital download, how many "go" to the movies any more?

Agreed.. Give me Netflix and 67 inch DLP/HT system and no need to go to the theater, unless you have a cute date.

Yes and yes. The Netflix Roku http://www.roku.com/netflixplayer/ is most definitely on my short list of the next HT equipment to hook-up to our new 67a750. Their not streaming in HD yet, but over 10,000 shows to choose from all for a flat $8.95/month, is a sweet deal. No renting, no time limit, no returns... You can count me in.

The 67a750 is in. Well we're off to the races. Let's see how long it takes for the prices to settle. 30-day price guarantee at Amazon, 60-price match/guarantee at Best Buy, 30/60-day price match at CC. Let the fun begin.

I'm trying to get my grayscale values to be correct on my 67 sammie. I'm referencing this greyscale tutorial on another website, and am using a spyder 2 to get the readings. I've run into a few issues that have pretty much made me go back to the original settings out the box until I can figure out what I'm doing wrong.

I'd appreciate any feedback on the following questions!

1.) The first thing I'm trying to figure out is what settings I should be using on my tv before going into the service menu.

2.) The second thing is, I've noticed going into the service menu completely voids the settings altogether that are on the TV, since it seems like the service menu runs independent. Is there a way around this? I ask because of the next question...

3.) I'm supposed to initially adjust my contrast and brightness. I figure since the settings reset in the service menu, that adjustment of contrast and brightness is done through sub_contrast and sub_brightness on the WB menu? What I'm trying to do is make my contrast of 80 and darkness of 50 be at the contrast/brightness levels in the service menu but I can't figure out a way to do this as going out of the service menu and starting up the tv brings me back to the default out of the box settings of contrast 100 brightness 45. I'd like to have some wiggle room in the main menus to increase the contrast if need be over the years.

4.) I'm supposed to adjust my red and blue levels at IRE 80 then 30, and try to take care of the in between and low end IRE values. I'm trying to get the RGB values to be as close to the 100% mark as possible. To make sure, these are the R/B values that I adjust under sub_brightness for low IRE and sub_contrast for high IRE? The problem i'm running into is without adjusting the green value, I have a hell of a time getting the red high enough near 100%. I've only been able to stablize all three colors modifying the green since the green for my set out of the box is at 110%. But modifying the green seems to lower my contrast throughout the IRE spectrum.

I need to fit an HL61A750 on a piece of furniture that my wife is near and dear to.
The set would extend 4 inches beyond the top height of the opening. I am curious if the top of the set is narrower depth than the bottom.
The bottom shelf is 16 inches thick so the 14 inch depth would be ok if it is less than 8 inches deep at the top of the TV.
I hope I am making sense.

I've been considering purchasing the 67" replacement of the 61" from Amazon, but as of 6/1, New York state imposes mandatory collection of Internet sales from companies that have "affiliates" within the state. This hits Amazon, which now has to charge tax. One more step in the direction of sales tax being added to all Internet purchases. How many more ways will big gov find a way to pinch the consumer?

Uhh, no matter how many times its said, geometry/focus issues are not just from the cabinet. Guaranteed. Why don't we revisit this discussion in a month and see if NO 67" owners have any geometry or focus issues? I'd bet money on that one that it won't happen. I won't put money on it, but you also most likely won't see a 67" for less than 2k from B&M before at least Black Friday, if then.

Of course, maybe Teknomedic's experience already verifies the geometry focus thing. If the case is movable like he describes, it isn't even as sturdy as my original HLM. Of course, this is a good and bad thing as he describes. I've done the same on my 61" and adjusted my slight issues so they are even less measurable.

I need to fit an HL61A750 on a piece of furniture that my wife is near and dear to.
The set would extend 4 inches beyond the top height of the opening. I am curious if the top of the set is narrower depth than the bottom.
The bottom shelf is 16 inches thick so the 14 inch depth would be ok if it is less than 8 inches deep at the top of the TV.
I hope I am making sense.
At the very top of this set, the depth is 3". At around 6" down from the top of the set, the depth is approx 7". Hope this helps.

At the very top of this set, the depth is 3". At around 6" down from the top of the set, the depth is approx 7". Hope this helps.
Should fit almost perfectly then. Thanks.

Uhh, no matter how many times its said, geometry/focus issues are not just from the cabinet. Guaranteed. Why don't we revisit this discussion in a month and see if NO 67" owners have any geometry or focus issues? I'd bet money on that one that it won't happen. I won't put money on it, but you also most likely won't see a 67" for less than 2k from B&M before at least Black Friday, if then.

Of course, maybe Teknomedic's experience already verifies the geometry focus thing. If the case is movable like he describes, it isn't even as sturdy as my original HLM. Of course, this is a good and bad thing as he describes. I've done the same on my 61" and adjusted my slight issues so they are even less measurable.


What I'd like is another 67" owner to test if they can do the "frame twist" I'm able to do... if everyone can do it then I'll keep the set... but if very few others or nearly no other can do it I may consider returning the set... although again, I'm unsure I'd do that since I can correct 99% of my "tilt/geo" issue by doing it. Tough call.

Let me just say that my 67" is still MUCH better than the 61" I had... it's hard to put into perspective, but if my 61" was 85%-90% perfect... the 67" is 94%-98% perfect. ((so far anyway from my limited testing)).

I have DVE HD-DVD but haven't tested yet (not enough time in the day)... but from some quick looks I don't see any focus or "convergence" issues like my 61" had.

I'll be able to test with DVE in around 14-16 hours and report more on other slight Geo and focus issues. (if any)

Lastly, if people aren't ready to "believe me" about the frame twist/tilt "feature" of my set... I'll be happy to recode a clip and do a utube or something (never done that before, but should be interesting).

well... off to work, I'll of course follow the thread as much as I can there... if there are any questions or requests I'll do what I can to answer or test as I can.

What I'd like is another 67" owner to test if they can do the "frame twist" I'm able to do... if everyone can do it then I'll keep the set... but if very few others or nearly no other can do it I may consider returning the set... although again, I'm unsure I'd do that since I can correct 99% of my "tilt/geo" issue by doing it. Tough call.

Let me just say that my 67" is still MUCH better than the 61" I had... it's hard to put into perspective, but if my 61" was 85%-90% perfect... the 67" is 94%-98% perfect. ((so far anyway from my limited testing)).

I have DVE HD-DVD but haven't tested yet (not enough time in the day)... but from some quick looks I don't see any focus or "convergence" issues like my 61" had.

I'll be able to test with DVE in around 14-16 hours and report more on other slight Geo and focus issues. (if any)

Lastly, if people aren't ready to "believe me" about the frame twist/tilt "feature" of my set... I'll be happy to recode a clip and do a utube or something (never done that before, but should be interesting).

well... off to work, I'll of course follow the thread as much as I can there... if there are any questions or requests I'll do what I can to answer or test as I can.

i would like to see if any 67" owners are experiencing the same reflection on the top portion of the set when viewing a 2.35:1 aspect ratio that our 61A750 LEDs are experiencing...???

i would like to see if any 67" owners are experiencing the same reflection on the top portion of the set when viewing a 2.35:1 aspect ratio that our 61A750 LEDs are experiencing...???


Unless you're looking for confirmation beyond me... my 67" does this as well. Listed this in my quick info post on the previous page.

Directbuy is a horrible scam and Tomanik should be banned...

Who is Tomanik and why should he be banned?

Or just spare us the hit-and-run posts.

Caveats: (a) I have the 600 series. The menus are not exactly like the 700 series but the basic calibration process should be close. (b) I am not an expert -- just spent too much time over the last couple of years playing in the service menu of an HL-R and a couple of weeks in an A650. (c) Use at your own risk!!1.) The first thing I'm trying to figure out is what settings I should be using on my tv before going into the service menu.Setting prior to service menu do not matter due to the user menu reset on entering the service menu. When in the service menu, you are essentially calibrating for Dynamic mode with picture mode = Cool1. (I believe using Expert mode there is a way to directly calibrate Movie mode while in the service menu but I have not tested that yet.) Calibrate as much as possible in the service menu (taking measurement in the service menu) and then tweak using the user menus while taking measurement outside the service menu.

2.) The second thing is, I've noticed going into the service menu completely voids the settings altogether that are on the TV, since it seems like the service menu runs independent. Is there a way around this? I ask because of the next question...Not really. However there are some tricks to make life easier, such as when setting the gamut in the CCA menu, set all of the picture mode parameters to the xy-coordinates that give D65 for Cool1. This way, all of the picture modes will have the same white points regardless of the setting in the user menu.

3.) I'm supposed to initially adjust my contrast and brightness. I figure since the settings reset in the service menu, that adjustment of contrast and brightness is done through sub_contrast and sub_brightness on the WB menu? What I'm trying to do is make my contrast of 80 and darkness of 50 be at the contrast/brightness levels in the service menu but I can't figure out a way to do this as going out of the service menu and starting up the tv brings me back to the default out of the box settings of contrast 100 brightness 45. I'd like to have some wiggle room in the main menus to increase the contrast if need be over the years.The default User values for Dynamic mode contrast and brightness can not be changed (as best I can determine). So, you can not set the contrast and brightness and have it represent 80 and 50 in the User Menu. However, I believe you can set the default user menu for contrast and brightness for the Standard Mode. (Have not tested this yet either. See menu EPA Standard.) This can be useful because you can set contrast and brightness in the service menu for dynamic mode with its default values. Go to Standard mode in the user menu, and set contrast and brightness for that mode using the user menu. (This might not need any adjustment because the same contrast and brightness values in the service menu apply to both Dynamic and Standard mode.) Note the values for contrast and brightness in the User mneu. Go back to the EPA Standard menu in the service menu and set the pertinent values to the just determine user values. Now, default mode for standard menu will have the correct values.

4.) I'm supposed to adjust my red and blue levels at IRE 80 then 30, and try to take care of the in between and low end IRE values. I'm trying to get the RGB values to be as close to the 100% mark as possible. To make sure, these are the R/B values that I adjust under sub_brightness for low IRE and sub_contrast for high IRE? The problem i'm running into is without adjusting the green value, I have a hell of a time getting the red high enough near 100%. I've only been able to stablize all three colors modifying the green since the green for my set out of the box is at 110%. But modifying the green seems to lower my contrast throughout the IRE spectrum. I am not fimilliar with the grey scale procedure you are using where in green is not adjusted. When we see "brightness" (not the technical color science term), it is most impacted by the color green. So, it is not unusual that lower green decreases the apparent "brightness" of the grey scale. This is an iteritative process. After you change something, you need to go back and check everything again. Another trick I have found to be useful: If you do not know the limiting color of your display, it is usually better to lower the higher colors to the lower colors rather than trying to raise the lower colors.

This stuff can be very confusing and specific directions are not available. Even the experts resort to trial and error. I strongly suggest you take a look at Tom Huffman's thread in the Calibration threads, if you have not done so already. If you want to really get into calibrating this beast, you might also want to start a separate thread over in the Calibration area where there is more interest and a lot more assistance with this sort of thing.

Well, I've read every post in this thread over the last few weeks and finally made my purchase today. BB has the 67A750 in their warehouses, but not yet in their stores here. Price today was $2299. I used the 12% coupon, 3 yrs no interest, 60 day price match, 30 day return. Walked out at $2190 after tax. They would not allow me to do the $100 off PS3 with the 12% coupon. :( The salesman did confirm that they would price match reputable online stores. CC said no online price matching, which is why I went with BB. I pick up my TV on 5/29 and can't wait. Thanks to everyone who has posted, especially mike_pro!

Caveats: (a) I have the 600 series. The menus are not exactly like the 700 series but the basic calibration process should be close. (b) I am not an expert -- just spent too much time over the last couple of years playing in the service menu of an HL-R and a couple of weeks in an A650. (c) Use at your own risk!!Setting prior to service menu do not matter due to the user menu reset on entering the service menu. When in the service menu, you are essentially calibrating for Dynamic mode with picture mode = Cool1. (I believe using Expert mode there is a way to directly calibrate Movie mode while in the service menu but I have not tested that yet.) Calibrate as much as possible in the service menu (taking measurement in the service menu) and then tweak using the user menus while taking measurement outside the service menu.

Thanks a ton for your help. To start with, i'm a complete novice when it comes to this stuff. I'm referencing the grayscale for dummies tutorial that was posted in the Calibration thread. So essentially, the tweaks I'm doing in service menu are being applied to the Dynamic mode and updating colors for Cool 1? Good to know. I had wondered which one it as modifying (standard, dynamic or movie). I'm fine with it setting that - just means I keep it on dynamic and cool 1 to get my tweaked settings?

The tutorial I was referencing on there recommended not tweaking the green values since that's typically the reference level. However, that was the only way I got accurate RGB values across the IRE. The difference was huge when I saw it - the only issue I had was that my overall light output was lower with my grayscale being updated (likely from lowering the green values). What's the best way to get this back up? Keep iterating and tweaking the sub contrast in the service menu, and continually re-adjust the RGB values until I find a good balance? Out of the box my light output was in the 30-40 range (around 35) but after calibration it dropped down to 25. My understanding is for DLP's 30-40 is optimal.

One other question I had was what IRE ranges should I reference for tweaking the RGB LowEnd? I've been assuming anything that is IRE 50 or lower with the above being used for RGB HighEnd

Anyone else find it strange that Samsung lists the price of the HL72A650 as $2299.99, yet most reputable retailers have it at $2999.99. I guess since it is pre-release, they are going off what little info they had, probably that Sammie was initially going to start it at $2999.99, but maybe Samsung changed and everyone has not adjusted yet?

I hope that is the case, a 72" tv at under $2300 is great.

I just came back from costco and they had the 67" for $2499 with the free samsung stand and the extra 2 year warranty here in winnipeg.
If costco took real credit cards I would have bought it today but only accepting american express or debit is kind of a pain.

O well I have anopther line on a better deal but if it doesn't pan out to costco I shall go!!

CEB II, I couldn't disagree you more. I too went from HLN567W to an 61A750. I too have 5 years of viewing under the old lamp model. My lamp is still going at 10k hours, but I had to replace (under warranty fortunately) the light engine twice.

Aside from that, i was concerned going from lamp to LED due to large windows where this set resides. It's a non-issue. The LED is plenty bright. LOST episodes have never looked so crisp, colorful and "wow" than what I first felt moving to the original 56". Blue Ray via PS3 is awesome, altho I've got limited # of viewings thru BD.

I got 6" more diagonal (you'd get 11" more!), slimmer, less lbs, no lamp, 3 HDMI's, 3D, less noise, less power consumption, etc. etc. for 1/2 the price of the HLN. Unless you think you're going to be moving this set around frequently, the frame is minimal issue.

Guys, you simply can't walk into BB and/or CC and assume you are seeing what these sets are capable of doing. You can't. Take one home under "buy it, try it". I bet you keep it. I dare ya'.

I'll look at some more Series 7s as they start being displayed in stores to evaluate picture brightness and pop versus other DLPs, but this was a never resolved issue with all of Sammy's last year LED DLPs. Also, you really can't do much to the viewing angle with tuning and the Series 7 viewing angle is clearly inferior to Series 6 and is more on a par with an "average" LCD (that's not a good thing).

We're a month and a half short of 5 years with our HLN507W (about 17,000 hours at this time) and we've never needed work on a light engine. Had two color wheels replaced because of the noise issue, but the current one was Sammy's ungraded design and hasn't been a problem for over 10,000 hours. Our other two repair problems have been the solid state video boards, HD and SD, which have nothing to do with the light engine/mirror technology. The HD board malfunctioned at about 7,000 hours and the SD board started malfunctioning this spring.

I don't need the size, 50' to 56" is ideal for my needs, so 61" is more a burden than a plus. The slimmer and lighter aspect I like, plus I'd love to get away from the fan noise, although I hear that the Series 6 fans are almost inaudible. I do need to move the set around to accommodate guests, when we have them, so the flimsy frames on apparently all the Sammy DLPs is a big concern. For now we continue to look at 52" LCDs. We like Sammy's here also, but glossy screens on the best of them is a real problem for our family room.

The tutorial I was referencing on there recommended not tweaking the green values since that's typically the reference level. However, that was the only way I got accurate RGB values across the IRE. The difference was huge when I saw it - the only issue I had was that my overall light output was lower with my grayscale being updated (likely from lowering the green values). What's the best way to get this back up? Keep iterating and tweaking the sub contrast in the service menu, and continually re-adjust the RGB values until I find a good balance? Out of the box my light output was in the 30-40 range (around 35) but after calibration it dropped down to 25. My understanding is for DLP's 30-40 is optimal."Green is reference" is probably not as important as it once was. The reason green was the reference was that in some displays, green was the limiting color. If you started raising the output of each of the colors, green run out first. In other displays, adjustment of green was not allowe4d (i.e., it was preset.). Thus, you would set green at a point where you knew it was not limited (or at the preset) and varied only red and blue. Anyway, back to the question about raising the over all light output... The answer is to simply use the contrast (sub-contrast) parameter and keep iterating as you have stated. Remember, the brightness and contrast controls theoretically change the output for all three colors together and the offset and gain controls change the individual colors.

One other question I had was what IRE ranges should I reference for tweaking the RGB LowEnd? I've been assuming anything that is IRE 50 or lower with the above being used for RGB HighEnd I'm not sure I understand the question but here's a go at it... Typically, for a two point grayscale calibration, 80 or 90 (high end) and 20 (low end) IRE targets are used to get things in the ball park. The offset (low end) and gain (high end) controls are not perfect; there is some overlap between high and low. So after you get the 20 IRE target done, look at the low end (generally, 10 to 40 or 50) and see if tweaking the offset can give a better overall grayscale as opposed to having 20 IRE dead on and the rest all over te map. Do the same to tweak the high end. This can be very tedious, particularly because the controls are not linear and specific color controls impact more than the indicated color.

I believe Tom's thread is the best for introduction to CMS systems and calibration in general. He provides step-by-step procedures and some alternatives to common ways of getting things done: Basic Guide to Color Calibration using a CMS (updated and enhanced) (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=852536) (All of essential stuff is in the first post.)

Hope this helps.

Unless you're looking for confirmation beyond me... my 67" does this as well. Listed this in my quick info post on the previous page.

sorry i missed ur post...i wonder what is causing it...hmmmmmm its weird my HLT5687S never had this problem...must be the new light engines

Well, I've read every post in this thread over the last few weeks and finally made my purchase today. BB has the 67A750 in their warehouses, but not yet in their stores here. Price today was $2299. I used the 12% coupon, 3 yrs no interest, 60 day price match, 30 day return. Walked out at $2190 after tax. They would not allow me to do the $100 off PS3 with the 12% coupon. :( The salesman did confirm that they would price match reputable online stores. CC said no online price matching, which is why I went with BB. I pick up my TV on 5/29 and can't wait. Thanks to everyone who has posted, especially mike_pro!

Good deal! $2032.12 + tax from BB with a 60-day price guarantee. Now we're talking.

...BB has the 67A750 in their warehouses, but not yet in their stores here. Price today was $2299. I used the 12% coupon, 3 yrs no interest, 60 day price match, 30 day return. Walked out at $2190 after tax...
Nice deal! In my experience the BB sales staff occasionally error in applying these multi-discount coupons correctly, so check your sales receipt to ensure you received a 12% discount versus 10%.

Nice deal! In my experience the BB sales staff occasionally error in applying these multi-discount coupons correctly, so check your sales receipt to ensure you received a 12% discount versus 10%.

Believe me, I checked!

Price today was $2299. I used the 12% coupon, 3 yrs no interest, 60 day price match, 30 day return. Walked out at $2190 after tax.

To get the 3 yrs no interest did you have to get them to install it. Because I asked about getting the no interest deal and they said I had to get the geek squad installation.

where can these 12% coupons for BB be found?

The coupons came through the mail

These are for the HL61A750

us-appliance.com (not able to post URL yet)

Big river listing it at 1,650 plus change

Sears has the new 67" model for $2249.99 minus 10% rebate for using your Sears card. The after-rebate cost would be $2025 plus tax. Home delivery is $65.00.

this may have already been answered but can someone explain what the differentiating factor is between the a750 and a650 ?

what does the 650 lack that the 750 has? i'm wondering what i lose in features by going the 72 instead of the 67.

this may have already been answered but can someone explain what the differentiating factor is between the a750 and a650 ?

what does the 650 lack that the 750 has? i'm wondering what i lose in features by going the 72 instead of the 67.

I don't know what else, but the main the diff is the A650 still uses a lamp + color wheel (and will have all the related issues because of that). The A750 series uses their 2nd gen LED light engine instead -- seems significantly better than 1st gen from last year though I guess not *all* issues are completely resolved.

_Man_

ahh i didnt realize the 72's used the wheel still. i assumed they were all LED - thank you for the education.

I'm so close to getting a HL67A750. The only issue for me is whether it uses the TI Dark Chip 3 instead of 4 which it sounds like is the case. So my alternate choice is the Mitsubishi WD-65736 or WD-73736 which uses the DC4 but has a bulb instead of LED.

My question is, which is more important: having the TI Dark Chip 4 or having LED instead of Bulb?

Sears has the new 67" model for $2249.99 minus 10% rebate for using your Sears card. The after-rebate cost would be $2025 plus tax. Home delivery is $65.00.

This seems to be a good deal. Anyone bought from Sears? How are they to deal with, vis-a-vis delivery/repairs/returns? Is this $65 delivery of a white-glove type, or just a drop-off?

I checked their website. Protection plans seem a little pricey, but I don't mind paying for reliability and hassle-free dealings. Is it necessary to go for the "video installation" fee in order for them to just take it out of the box and place it on the stand? That would be a rip-off, as I don't need any help connecting the set. The 10% off with Sears card is nice, though. But hate the idea of sales tax.

Guess I should take a ride to my neighborhood Sears and ask a sales rep, although I don't anticipate anyone's being extremely knowledgeable (from past experience), but then I've never bought a big ticket, electronics item from them before.

To get the 3 yrs no interest did you have to get them to install it. Because I asked about getting the no interest deal and they said I had to get the geek squad installation.

No, they don't have to install it. I'm picking mine up myself on Thurs.


where can these 12% coupons for BB be found?

I don't know if I can post links yet, but search for Best Buy on slickdeals .net and you'll find it. I think the coupon ends today.

i found the coupon on slickdeals but went to my local BB and they dont have the 67 in. :(

there were two 'open box' 61's in for $1550 and $1600 respectively tho. wonder why they went back so soon. i couldnt see any flaw.

Well, I got my 67A750 delivered on Friday and was instantly pleased with the improved geometry compared to my 61A750 CC just took back. No tilt and much less overscan (using my 1080p test pattern). Even the 1080p over component for my 360 was good out of the box (it had the 1004.xx firmware, not the one released just the other day.)

I really thought I was finally done returning sets trying to find one that made me happy, but after tweaking the image over the last few days, I just cant seems to get the image as nice and vibrant as my previous 61". It may just be a light engine focus problem, or maybe, despite being 40% than last year, 67" is the threshold for these LED PhatLights. It doesn't seem to light up the screen as well as the 61".

Anyway, gonna go back and have them pull a 61" out of the box so I can check the geometry and get that swapped. Hopefully they don't think I'm abusing their return policy! This will be my fourth return/swap in just over a month.

I don't know what else, but the main the diff is the A650 still uses a lamp + color wheel (and will have all the related issues because of that). The A750 series uses their 2nd gen LED light engine instead -- seems significantly better than 1st gen from last year though I guess not *all* issues are completely resolved.

_Man_

Actually, this year is third generation I'm pretty sure....:cool:

Actually, this year is third generation I'm pretty sure....:cool:

ur right the first gen was the hls5679, 2nd gen was hl-txx87/89s and now this year A750 model LEDs

For those who have looked at/bought a Mack warranty, can you tell me the difference between the standard 3-yr for $210 (TV < $2500) and the PREMIER 3-yr for $348? Reading the descriptions on their site doesn't clear that up for me.

EDIT: E-mailed NWV Direct support and they gave me the answer.

I'm about to buy a new Samsung (my third Samsung DLP) and was going to get the HL56A650. However, a local store has the HLT5687 (LED) on sale for less than the HL56A650. I understand the primary difference in the sets is LED vs. bulb, however, I'm just wondering if there are any opinions on which one I should buy.

I've owned my 61/750 for about two weeks now and I'm in love again!! Best pic I've ever seen. Paid $1800 at CC plus tax.

I do have one problem, when the screen is mostly black or when the TV is on and no movie is playing I see what I would describe as two little round circles near the bottom corner, about half dollar size. Cannot see them when the movie is playing thank God. Could this be something on one of the1000000000 tiny little mirrors? Any ideas? Should I call in a tech or take it apart myself? Thanks!

Has anyone plugged their XXA750 series (61 or 67") into a Kill-A-Watt meter and noted the usage in watts? I was thinking of bringing my meter to BB to test it. My antique HLM/N series uses 181 watts and want to reduce, especially @ 12 hours a day.


Plugged my 61A750 into my Kill-A-Watt meter and it was running at 119. Not bad!!!

Just spend an hour at BB looking at a 56A650, 2-61A750's, and a 65" Mits.

Also played around with some of the remote controlled picture adustments on the 61A750. One of the 61A750's was an open box "Manager's special" with a price of $1499. Otherwise, I think the price was $1999.

First set I noticed was the 56A650. It was NICE and BRIGHT...even to just past 45º off center. Very impressive. Sharp too.

The 61A750 definitely was neither as bright, sharp, nor as vibrant off angle.
I asked the guy how much time was spent tweaking the sets in general, and he was honest enough to say that "basically, we just uncart 'em out of the box, set the cable channel line-up, and put 'em on the display". "Some of 'em are pretty punchy out of the box, but that's the manufacturer's doing."

When I looked at the setting on the 61A750, the contrast was set to 100, the brightness to 45, and the sharpness was at around 50 or so. The rest of the color settings were all around 50 or thereabouts.

I brought the brightness up to around 65, the contrast down to about 85, and upped the sharpness a bit. Overall, there was a tiny bit of improvement but nothing stellar. I was still far more impressed by the plasmas (of which there were many), and even moreso by the non-glossy screen LCD's. Still for the money, I could get a mediocre 50" plasma, or a 61A750. Problem is, once you see the BIG screens, your heart tends to sink a bit after looking at the 50's and 52's. :(

What was REALLY a treat was watching a big 65 plasma set up in the Theatre Room. NIIIIIICE!!!

Even though the 67A750 hasn't had stellar reviews on this board, I went ahead and purchased it through Intech AV. The LCD's and Plasma's are absolutely brighter and more vibrant, but once I get it in my home, I think the picture will pass the good enough test...especially based on price. I paid $1950, no tax, no shipping...it's curbside not white glove.

If you have an ABC Warehouse near you (only in Michigan, Ohio, Indiana) check them out. Last week I haggled with them and got the price of the HL67A750 down to $2099 plus tax. After reading today that BB dropped the price down to 2299 plus a 12% coupon that put it below my cost plus they had 3 year no interest. So I went back into ABC to see if they would deal with me again. After everything was all said and done they got the tv down to $1975 plus tax and 2 year no interest. So they are definately worth checking out.

Plugged my 61A750 into my Kill-A-Watt meter and it was running at 119. Not bad!!!

Thanks for the info, $3.50/month savings now and $4.05 next month when my rate goes up 15%.

Well, I've had the 67A750 for about 3 days now. I absolutely love this set.
Excellent PQ. Standard DVD's upscaled through the PS3 look awesome. No tilt or bowing from what I can tell.

Also using this as a computer monitor as well. :D Couldn't be happier.

How do you check for the "BIOS" version again? Also, I'd like to throw up a grid to see if everything checks out...is this feature built in?

Hey N8DOGG , did Costco have its 'own' model number on this ? I just went to a Costco in Toronto and got them to check and they couldn't find 67A750 anywhere. They did tell me that Western Canada can get completely different stuff but they checked Canada Wide and couldn't find any evidence of it. They had one 67 inch with a stand for 2499 but in the system but it was a different model number.. 6756 I believe.

If anyone else here has any ideas on where I can look in Toronto it would be most appreciated ! I asked a Best Buy and they said they had no idea if they will get it in but IF they do it should be mid June.

Just ordered the 67a750 from Best Buy using the 12%-off coupon. I talked them into honoring the free delivery on top of the 12% so they took off an additional $80 for the TV. So, that brought the TV to $1,943.99 plus the $80 in-home delivery and tax. The in-home delivery/box removal with a 30-day unconditional return/exchange and 60-day price guarantee was the clincher. It had to be a decent deal to off-set the sales tax... Now to get this 61"er out of here before the 67 is delivered a week from today!!

When I looked at the setting on the 61A750, the contrast was set to 100, the brightness to 45, and the sharpness was at around 50 or so. The rest of the color settings were all around 50 or thereabouts.

I brought the brightness up to around 65, the contrast down to about 85, and upped the sharpness a bit. Overall, there was a tiny bit of improvement but nothing stellar. I was still far more impressed by the plasmas (of which there were many), and even moreso by the non-glossy screen LCD's. Still for the money, I could get a mediocre 50" plasma, or a 61A750. Problem is, once you see the BIG screens, your heart tends to sink a bit after looking at the 50's and 52's. :(

What was REALLY a treat was watching a big 65 plasma set up in the Theatre Room. NIIIIIICE!!!

Was it in Dynamic mode? That's basically useless. You should check it out in movie or standard. Try some of the settings from the FAQ. Will warn you though, it may look "dim: in the store in movie mode, but that is the viewing environment. The set is plenty bright, and the movie mode is quite accurate and reproduces a great picture. For more "pop" you can try standard mode and turning on dynamic contrast and LED adjust to Auto.

As nearly everyone on here who has this set in their home will tell you, it has a great picture.

For those who have looked at/bought a Mack warranty, can you tell me the difference between the standard 3-yr for $210 (TV < $2500) and the PREMIER 3-yr for $348? Reading the descriptions on their site doesn't clear that up for me.

You must be referring to the NWV Direct site...
I bought their PREMIER 3-yr for $348. After registering the warranty with Mack, I found there is no difference between the standard 3-yr for $210.
and the PREMIER 3-yr for $348.
So I phoned NWV Direct and told them I was going to do a charge back with my credit card Co. if they did not credit $138. back to my credit card. After arguing with me for 10 minutes he finally agreed to credit $138. back to my credit card. Two days later I checked my credit card statement online and the credit was there... In my pocket instead of theirs. I do not recommend this Co.

I'm about to buy a new Samsung (my third Samsung DLP) and was going to get the HL56A650. However, a local store has the HLT5687 (LED) on sale for less than the HL56A650. I understand the primary difference in the sets is LED vs. bulb, however, I'm just wondering if there are any opinions on which one I should buy.

If I were you I'd go for the HL56A650. Besides the fact that there is a thread or two on AVS discussing the problems of the HLTXX87s, just look at the picture on the two of them. Set on Standard, side-by-side, and with the same video source, it should be obvious. The PQ on the HLTXX87 is reminiscent of the old CRT RP units. No pop. No color depth. Dull, under-bright picture. But then, that's just me.

Just ordered the 67a750 from Best Buy using the 12%-off coupon. I talked them into honoring the free delivery on top of the 12% so they took off an additional $80 for the TV. So, that brought the TV to $1,943.99 plus the $80 in-home delivery and tax. The in-home delivery/box removal with a 30-day unconditional return/exchange and 60-day price guarantee was the clincher. It had to be a decent deal to off-set the sales tax... Now to get this 61"er out of here before the 67 is delivered a week from today!!

Thats strange :confused: BB doesnt show 67 on the web nor do they stock them in Fla. Where did you find a BB that had the 67 ?

Thats strange :confused: BB doesnt show 67 on the web nor do they stock them in Fla. Where did you find a BB that had the 67 ?

I called BB and they had them in their warehouse, but not yet in any stores. They are delivering mine to my local BB by Thursday.

Okay, I've been reading for days on this thread and am having trouble making a decision. I need some knowledgeable opinions. Please! Basically, I am trying to decide between the 61A750 DLP and the Sammy 50A650 Plasma. The price difference for me is about $350 (so not that big of deal). I pretty much sit on center from TV about 7-11 ft away depending on where I sit. I have a piece of furniture that will support the 61A750 so no issues there. Any opinions on my dilemma or on size vs. quality with these two TVs? Thanks.

For those who have looked at/bought a Mack warranty, can you tell me the difference between the standard 3-yr for $210 (TV < $2500) and the PREMIER 3-yr for $348? Reading the descriptions on their site doesn't clear that up for me.

The answers are in the Extended warranty thread, but I believe the difference is one covers bulbs and the other doesn't. With DLP LED you don't need bulbs, so you can save some money.

I only paid $130 or so from Texas TapeWorks, so I'm not sure what pricing you are looking at.

67" owners...

are any of you able to do the "frame twist" that I can do?

((stand in front of the TV, place both hands on top the set about 3ft apart and then push towards the rear with one and pull towads the front with the other.... does your screen slip/slide inside the frame. Also, if you can put a grid up, does this affect any of your geometry???))

I'd really like to know if everyone else or no one else can do this.... if I'm the odd man out (I must be the unluckiest person that buys electronics) I'm considering an exchange since so far everyone else says "zero Geo issues"... where I had noticable issues from first power up.

Thanks for taking the time to try it. :)

67" owners...

are any of you able to do the "frame twist" that I can do?

((stand in front of the TV, place both hands on top the set about 3ft apart and then push towards the rear with one and pull towads the front with the other.... does your screen slip/slide inside the frame. Also, if you can put a grid up, does this affect any of your geometry???))

I'd really like to know if everyone else or no one else can do this.... if I'm the odd man out (I must be the unluckiest person that buys electronics) I'm considering an exchange since so far everyone else says "zero Geo issues"... where I had noticable issues from first power up.

Thanks for taking the time to try it. :)
Yes, I can twist the frame on my 67 as well, it's suprisingly easy. Was helpful as well as I was able to correct a lot of geometry issues by doing so, top, bottom and right side are perfect, just can't get the left side. Has about a 1/4" which just seems uncorrectable. Not sure about anyone else but I have about 75 pixels of overscan in total both vertically and horizontally. All in all for the price I'm very happy with the set so far. :-)

Okay, I've been reading for days on this thread and am having trouble making a decision. I need some knowledgeable opinions. Please! Basically, I am trying to decide between the 61A750 DLP and the Sammy 50A650 Plasma. The price difference for me is about $350 (so not that big of deal). I pretty much sit on center from TV about 7-11 ft away depending on where I sit. I have a piece of furniture that will support the 61A750 so no issues there. Any opinions on my dilemma or on size vs. quality with these two TVs? Thanks.

That's actually a pretty huge spread between 7 to 11 ft viewing distance. Also, do you actually mean eyeballs-to-screen distance or something else?

Assuming eyeballs-to-screen distance, I'd probably go w/ the 50" plasma at 7-8ft, but would likely prefer the 61" DLP at 10-11ft (for me anyway) since the larger size would matter more at that viewing distance. However, if you love to sit really up close in the movie theater to cover nearly all your peripheral vision w/ the picture, then you'll likely want the 61" even from 7ft away.

For me, I find ~1.9x the diagonal size (of a 16x9 set) to be what I like most, so a 50" would yield an ideal ~8ft viewing distance for me. And a 61" would yield an ideal ~9.7ft viewing distance for me. I also find that give-or-take ~1/2 ft doesn't make a particularly noticeable diff to me (unless I'm deliberately comparing).

YMMV, so your best bet is to go see for yourself what actually works best for you. FWIW, I'm also debating between the 61" Samsung LED DLP and a 50" Panny plasma. I was pretty much set to jump on the 61", but then, some of the issues I'm reading now are turning me a bit off on it -- plus I just noticed that the price on the Panny 50PZ80 just got cut below the 61" Samsung at Amazzz... I mean Big River. ;) And I also just realized that I probably won't need to buy a new TV stand for the 50" plasma like I would definitely need for the 61" DLP, which could easily save me another $200-300. But yeah, it's hard to consider 50" after deciding I really want 61". :p

_Man_

Thats strange :confused: BB doesnt show 67 on the web nor do they stock them in Fla. Where did you find a BB that had the 67 ?

Yes, they are sitting in the regional warehouses. It takes them a day or two to "bring them in" after being ordered. And, if you want delivery another couple of days to go from your local BB to you.

I asked them about doing a paper return/exchange on or about the day they deliver it, so I could get the full 30-day return and 60-day price guarantee (as well as the most grace time on my credit card) and they agreed with no problem.

Even though I hate to pay the additional 8+% sales tax, the extra level of customer service and piece of mind return/exchange makes up for it...

Yes, I can twist the frame on my 67 as well, it's suprisingly easy. Was helpful as well as I was able to correct a lot of geometry issues by doing so, top, bottom and right side are perfect, just can't get the left side. Has about a 1/4" which just seems uncorrectable. Not sure about anyone else but I have about 75 pixels of overscan in total both vertically and horizontally. All in all for the price I'm very happy with the set so far. :-)

Good to know... I was a little worried, but now that I know someone else can do this too I'll (try) to sit back and relaxe and enjoy... but I just put DVE in so I'll probably get a few more grey hairs, lol.

With the grids up I can see some geo issues.... but they're VERY MILD compaired to the 61" I returned.



On a side note.... I've had a repeating issue with the TV and my Onkyo 605 via HDMI. I'm still not sure if it's the TV or the Onkyo AVR. Basically, I'll switch from my PC (video -VGA- is connected via TV, audio via Onkyo) to my cable box (component video & audio) via the Onkyo I'll randomly get a "Blue" screen that has random "flicker chucks" appearing. If I reset the TV nothing changes.. but if I reset the Onkyo I get picture (although one time I got a stuck picture until I changed channels on my cable box).

I'd say Onkyo is the problem right?... well, I've also had an issue with my PC via VGA connected directly to the TV where the TV will show just a black screen... again, for some reason, resetting the Onkyo fixes this as well.

Am I looking at a handshake issue via HDMI that's getting the TV messed up? This also happened on the 61"... and as I've said both used 1004 firmware.

Does 1005.3 firmware exsist?... and can some get it to me so I can see if this fixes my issue?

Anyone else with an Onkyo AVR having this type of issue via HDMI????

Thanks.


EDIT - I just did a quick check at samsung.com... they have the 1005.3 firmware up for download on the official HL67A750 page!... I'm going to try this and see if my issues are resolved.

Firmware as well as directions can be downloaded at Samsung.com here:
http://www.samsung.com/us/support/download/supportDown.do?group=televisions&type=televisions&subtype=dlptv&model_nm=HL67A750A1F&mType=FM&dType=D&vType=R

Both the 61" and 67" model pages have the same firmware revision available so I'm assuming they're the same file... but play it safe and download the firmware from your sets official page.

Okay, I've been reading for days on this thread and am having trouble making a decision. I need some knowledgeable opinions. Please! Basically, I am trying to decide between the 61A750 DLP and the Sammy 50A650 Plasma. The price difference for me is about $350 (so not that big of deal). I pretty much sit on center from TV about 7-11 ft away depending on where I sit. I have a piece of furniture that will support the 61A750 so no issues there. Any opinions on my dilemma or on size vs. quality with these two TVs? Thanks.
My viewing distance is 12', so the 61" is the perfect size screen; 50" screen would be too small. At your max viewing distance of 11', you're at the outer limit of seeing any benefit of 1080P detail on a 50" screen. So, I believe 61" would be better. Also, a 61" screen gives 49% more viewing area than a 50". I don't know anything about Samsung plasma, so I can't offer any comments regarding comparative quality or features. I've had a very nice 50" Panny plasma and now the 61A750, and I have no regrets about this DLP choice.

Okay, I've been reading for days on this thread and am having trouble making a decision. I need some knowledgeable opinions. Please! Basically, I am trying to decide between the 61A750 DLP and the Sammy 50A650 Plasma. The price difference for me is about $350 (so not that big of deal). I pretty much sit on center from TV about 7-11 ft away depending on where I sit. I have a piece of furniture that will support the 61A750 so no issues there. Any opinions on my dilemma or on size vs. quality with these two TVs? Thanks.

Well, in reality the best choice probably depends on your usage somewhat, (i.e. do any gaming, room lighting, window reflections, etc). But, in reality, I would break it down like this - why go for 50" when you could have 61"?? If you get the smaller set, you'll always be thinking of those extra inches. Size does matter. :D

That's actually a pretty huge spread between 7 to 11 ft viewing distance. Also, do you actually mean eyeballs-to-screen distance or something else?

Assuming eyeballs-to-screen distance, I'd probably go w/ the 50" plasma at 7-8ft, but would likely prefer the 61" DLP at 10-11ft (for me anyway) since the larger size would matter more at that viewing distance. However, if you love to sit really up close in the movie theater to cover nearly all your peripheral vision w/ the picture, then you'll likely want the 61" even from 7ft away.

For me, I find ~1.9x the diagonal size (of a 16x9 set) to be what I like most, so a 50" would yield an ideal ~8ft viewing distance for me. And a 61" would yield an ideal ~9.7ft viewing distance for me. I also find that give-or-take ~1/2 ft doesn't make a particularly noticeable diff to me (unless I'm deliberately comparing).

YMMV, so your best bet is to go see for yourself what actually works best for you. FWIW, I'm also debating between the 61" Samsung LED DLP and a 50" Panny plasma. I was pretty much set to jump on the 61", but then, some of the issues I'm reading now are turning me a bit off on it -- plus I just noticed that the price on the Panny 50PZ80 just got cut below the 61" Samsung at Amazzz... I mean Big River. ;) And I also just realized that I probably won't need to buy a new TV stand for the 50" plasma like I would definitely need for the 61" DLP, which could easily save me another $200-300. But yeah, it's hard to consider 50" after deciding I really want 61". :p

_Man_

The reason for the spread is because on chair is at 11 ft and the couch is between 7 and 8. I'm wondering if 11 ft is too far away for a 50". I currently have a 56" Samsung DLP (on loaner), so it is hard to think about going smaller. But quality seems to be there in the 50" Plasma. Actually, I 'm considering the Sammy 50A650 Plasma and the new LG 50PG60 (waiting for CNET review next week). The LG maybe a real sleeper this year. But at the end of the day I wonder should I spend an extra $400 and go down 11" in screen. Just hard to make that decision.

You must be referring to the NWV Direct site...
I bought their PREMIER 3-yr for $348. After registering the warranty with Mack, I found there is no difference between the standard 3-yr for $210.
and the PREMIER 3-yr for $348.
So I phoned NWV Direct and told them I was going to do a charge back with my credit card Co. if they did not credit $138. back to my credit card. After arguing with me for 10 minutes he finally agreed to credit $138. back to my credit card. Two days later I checked my credit card statement online and the credit was there... In my pocket instead of theirs. I do not recommend this Co.

Yes, NWV Direct site. I emailed their support yesterday and received the following reply:

"Hi Bruce. Starting June 1st there is no difference. You are better off buying the $210.00. one. Sorry for the confusion."

I was, at first, impressed with their candor and quick response (on Memorial Day, no less). After reading your response, I'm not so sure if I should deal with them. :confused:

The answers are in the Extended warranty thread, but I believe the difference is one covers bulbs and the other doesn't. With DLP LED you don't need bulbs, so you can save some money.

I only paid $130 or so from Texas TapeWorks, so I'm not sure what pricing you are looking at.

Forgot about that warranties thread. I'll check it out as well as Texas Tapeworks. Thanks.

I have been reading this thread for about a month now trying to decide when pull the trigger. I finally did it today. Got a HL61A750 from Intech AV for less than $1700 shipped.

Regarding the Mack extended warranties available from various sites...

Are these warranties really worth it? I have the 61a750 and with no wheel/bulb, I am beginning to wonder if it is needed.

On that note, do you have to purchase these within 30 days of purchasing the TV or, prior to the manufacturer warranty (1 year) expiring? I have seen conflicting information. Perhaps it's on a site by site basis. I am past the 30 day window so I was wondering if I could still pick one of these up. Thanks!

I ordered thru Mack (which I think ends up being Texas "xxx")? You had to order within 30 days of purchase.

I have not finalized yet, as I may move up from 61" to 67" in the next couple of weeks. I'm just assuming they will transfer my coverage up as well with an additional payment if needed...

The reason for the spread is because on chair is at 11 ft and the couch is between 7 and 8. I'm wondering if 11 ft is too far away for a 50". I currently have a 56" Samsung DLP (on loaner), so it is hard to think about going smaller. But quality seems to be there in the 50" Plasma. Actually, I 'm considering the Sammy 50A650 Plasma and the new LG 50PG60 (waiting for CNET review next week). The LG maybe a real sleeper this year. But at the end of the day I wonder should I spend an extra $400 and go down 11" in screen. Just hard to make that decision.


All I can tell you is that I'm about 8-9ft away... and using the 67". I was about the same distance from my 52"... and then the trail 61" In general everything looked good on all three sets. I could see some slight SSE in my 52"... and that maybe got a little worse with the 61".... the 67" I would say has the same amount as the 61". I can see if I look for it, but if I just enjoy what I'm watching it all fades away. With that said... I've never once noticed SDE (think that's the abrev for "Screen Door Effect") on the newer sets. I could find it on my old 52", but on the 61" or 67" haven't noticed... and I've looked.

Not sure if this will help you or not... I guess I'm saying get the larger set... it will be more "universal" if you move or change your layout and you end up further away.

I'm afraid to ask, but how deeeeeep is that 67@750 at its deepest point???

I'm afraid to ask, but how deeeeeep is that 67@750 at its deepest point???

16.6" plus a recommended 4" clearance.

Regarding the Mack extended warranties available from various sites...

Are these warranties really worth it? I have the 61a750 and with no wheel/bulb, I am beginning to wonder if it is needed.

On that note, do you have to purchase these within 30 days of purchasing the TV or, prior to the manufacturer warranty (1 year) expiring? I have seen conflicting information. Perhaps it's on a site by site basis. I am past the 30 day window so I was wondering if I could still pick one of these up. Thanks!

Most electronics if they are going to fail within the first month or so and are covered under manufacture's warranty. If you buy with credit card warranty is extended. Unless you are lucky extended warranty is a rip off.

16.6" plus a recommended 4" clearance.

Is that the recommended clearance for all sizes in the 650 line too? How important is the clearance issue?

Most electronics if they are going to fail within the first month or so and are covered under manufacture's warranty. If you buy with credit card warranty is extended. Unless you are lucky extended warranty is a rip off.

I don't know about that when it comes to RPTVs. For instance, plenty of Panny CRT-based RPTVs had convergence ICs that died *after* the first 2-3 years (and before the 4th or 5th year) -- mine certainly did, and I've also seen a few other folks had the problem also on top of the occasional grayscale "pop" issue that many had, which in some cases left the grayscale out of whack w/ a strong bias toward one of the 3 primary colors.

No, I don't normally buy into EWs either. But I would definitely consider making an exception for RPTVs. I think it really depends on the particular design, make, etc. While it's true that the insurers make big $$$ from selling EWs as a whole, that doesn't mean they always win w/ every line of product being covered. They are just using some sort of broad statistical analysis for this stuff, and their calculations typically generalize big time across different technologies, etc. w/out carefully scrutinizing actual risks involved w/ each particular technology for instance. Just consider how they decide the cost of EW for the different TVs for instance. They don't really care which TV you get beyond the TV's price tag even though some will have more risks than others. They just simply based their EW cost on the cost of the TV. And as w/ most such methods/systems of analysis, you can probably find its weaknesses and inefficiencies and leverage against them when you decide whether to buy an EW or not.

For instance, when I bought my Panny RPTV several years ago, I found out about some of the probable issues I might run into, so I decided to buy a moderately priced 4-year EW from Best Buy at the time (and also used that as a bargaining chip for a better price on the TV). I ended up paying a net cost of ~$250 for the EW (or ~15% of the TV's purchase price), and 3 years later, needed repairs to the convergence ICs that basically cost the same amount as the EW -- FYI, apparently, the convergence IC problem is a rather common one w/ the Panny's.

Anyway, of course, I'm not suggesting that everyone should always buy an EW for their RPTV. But OTOH, don't completely dismiss it either. In some specific cases, it might indeed make sense to buy an EW. For instance, if one is buying a bulb-based DLP w/ color wheel, it might make sense to get a moderately priced 4-to-5-year EW since the color wheel seems like a problem area -- though you can probably learn to fix it yourself for less, if you're handy. It really depends...

_Man_

Most electronics if they are going to fail within the first month or so and are covered under manufacture's warranty. If you buy with credit card warranty is extended. Unless you are lucky extended warranty is a rip off.Ditto Man-Fai Wong. Also... Though Consumer Report magazine generally cautions people to not waste money on extended warranties, over the last three years, they have said that an extended warranty with an RPTV is a good idea. I did not buy one with my old HL-R and almost got burned when they replaced the light engine twice within the last two months of the credit card warranty extension. I bought one with my new A650. FWIW.

Looks like I'll be replacing my 52" Mits with either a 56" or 61" Samsung (BB store credit... don't think I wanna chance another Mits). I've been slogging my way thru this thread, and I'm concerned with geometry issues... is the 56" unit less prone to the problems or is it common to both, and what makes the 67" better?

Adding to the "pro" EW argument.... (I've said this a few times on the boards)...

but... my 3.5yr old 52" Mits WD-52525 pretty much died about 2 months ago and thanks to the $400 Best Buy EW I bought (not only did it cover a bulb replacement before it's death)... but I got a "Junk out exchange" on it... I now have the 67" Sammy HL67A750.

...of course I bought another $400 EW on the 67". I know it sounds expensive... but if you consider with my $800 over four years I've had one bulb replacement and a new, larger TV... well, it seems like a deal to me.

Not saying you have to buy a BB plan of course... but I recommend a plan from someone.

Looks like I'll be replacing my 52" Mits with either a 56" or 61" Samsung (BB store credit... don't think I wanna chance another Mits). I've been slogging my way thru this thread, and I'm concerned with geometry issues... is the 56" unit less prone to the problems or is it common to both, and what makes the 67" better?

If you don't mind me asking?... what model of 52" Mits did you have?... and did something happen or are just upgrading?

I had the Mits WD-52525... good TV for the time, but I started having issues after about 6 weeks of owning it. FWIW, the Sammy LEDs are like 4000% better than my old Mits ever was at it's peak with a new bulb.




Also, I'm not sure about the 56", but many of us (including me) had many Geo issues with the 61" while my replacement 67" is near perfect (had to do a "frame twist" to correct a mild "tilt" issue at first). It seems they made the plastic housing about a twice as think as they did with the 61" so that's probably helping.

... and I'm concerned with geometry issues... is the 56" unit less prone to the problems or is it common to both,... Don't really have enough data to say whether the 56" (A650) models are less prone to geometry problems. (Most folks in this thread seem to have A750s) I exchanged my first HL56A650 due to a relatively minor but annoying (to me, not the wife, who thought I was nuts) geometry problem. The second set had perfect geometry but also had a busted s-video input that I needed for a specific application. I am suppose to receive my third A650 tomorrow morning. We'll see...

Most electronics if they are going to fail within the first month or so and are covered under manufacture's warranty. If you buy with credit card warranty is extended. Unless you are lucky extended warranty is a rip off.

Or in my case, fail even after the extended warranty - my Tosh 57HDX82 crapped the hyperboard after 4 yr 10 months - at least I saved $300+ by NOT getting the 4 year extended warranty, which the set conveniently broke 10 months after it's expiration :P Oh I'm getting the 67A750 next month to replace it :D

If you don't mind me asking?... what model of 52" Mits did you have?... and did something happen or are just upgrading?

I had the Mits WD-52525... good TV for the time, but I started having issues after about 6 weeks of owning it. FWIW, the Sammy LEDs are like 4000% better than my old Mits ever was at it's peak with a new bulb.

I, too, had the WD-52525, rock solid for three years, LOVED it (still do...) then it developed "wavy lines" on the component, and eventually composite inputs. After three service calls they decided to do a chassis rebuild, the end result of which is a dead TV. I've been told that the repair process is over and after they cross the "T's" and dot the "I's" I'll be getting my store credit... I was hoping to have it over the weekend... would have liked that 12% discount.

I'm torn... I had a great experience with the Mits until the unit developed issues that the Mfg at first denied, then failed to developed an actual fix for... so with the limited choice in DLP, it looks like my latest set will be a Sammy (my 40" LCD is a Samsung... it's awesome) but I want to avoid a lot of back and forth with BB, so I want to get the most trouble free unit I can.

[QUOTE=Teknomedic;13958250] FWIW, the Sammy LEDs are like 4000% better than my old Mits ever was at it's peak with a new bulb.


I have reservations regarding the LED light Engine... I work for an LED company, and I know how inflated the Lifetime and Output claims of LED's can be, that being said... I'm dying to have an LED TV and so I have a tough choice ahead of me.

The Tech's servicing my Mits said that last years' Samsung LED sets were constantly frying LEDs due to poor heatsinking, and that the replacement pcs were often damaged prior to install due to poor static control. They hadn't serviced this years crop.

If you get the EW without "bulb replacement" does it still cover LED replacement?

Don't really have enough data to say whether the 56" (A650) models are less prone to geometry problems. (Most folks in this thread seem to have A750s) I exchanged my first HL56A650 due to a relatively minor but annoying (to me, not the wife, who thought I was nuts) geometry problem. The second set had perfect geometry but also had a busted s-video input that I needed for a specific application. I am suppose to receive my third A650 tomorrow morning. We'll see...

The 56" would be a nice fit for my existing space, but I'm having a hard time denying the lure of the 61" unit... bigger IS better ;)

My wife has developed a quite a critical eye.. she was the one who urged me to get the Mits serviced, the wavy lines were driving her nuts, while I was learning to cope... but I'm sure I'll be more critical "right out of the box" on what ever new unit I decide on.

I'm in Oregon, but I'd assume it's a chain wide deal.

I'm not sure if they do any price matching at all, but I'm guessing the free stand would take care of that anyway. But at least you get 90 days to take it back, for any reason. I'm just curious what their price will be for this in a couple months...how close it will be to Amazon/BB/CC, and how much the MSRP might drop by then.

Right now the only DLP that Costco has is the Mits WD-65833, and it's $2600, while the lowest price I could find elsewhere is around $2100 shipped. Although I believe you get an extra year warranty through Costco.

I got the model number from costco for the samsung 67" dlp that they have $200 off in july and it is HL 67A510C????? I can't even find that model on the samsung page??? So is this a led or a bulb model???????

I got the model number from costco for the samsung 67" dlp that they have $200 off in july and it is HL 67A510C????? I can't even find that model on the samsung page??? So is this a led or a bulb model???????

I'm guessing it is a bulb with roughly the same specs as the HL67A510 (http://www.samsung.com/us/consumer/detail/detail.do?group=televisions&type=televisions&subtype=dlptv&model_cd=HL67A510J1FXZA) with the C added to the model number to avoid other dealers having to try and price match them.

If you get the EW without "bulb replacement" does it still cover LED replacement?

From Mack, yes it does.

How important is the clearance issue?
According to Samsung, it's only important if you want to keep the set from overheating. A 120mm cooling fan added behind might reduce the required clearance to a couple inches.

I'm guessing it is a bulb with roughly the same specs as the HL67A510 (http://www.samsung.com/us/consumer/detail/detail.do?group=televisions&type=televisions&subtype=dlptv&model_cd=HL67A510J1FXZA) with the C added to the model number to avoid other dealers having to try and price match them.

That is at least a year old model isn't it?

You're spot on with that - the added 'C' is for Costco

I'm guessing it is a bulb with roughly the same specs as the HL67A510 (http://www.samsung.com/us/consumer/detail/detail.do?group=televisions&type=televisions&subtype=dlptv&model_cd=HL67A510J1FXZA) with the C added to the model number to avoid other dealers having to try and price match them.

From Mack, yes it does.

Well... that's a real plus, thanx.

I have reservations regarding the LED light Engine... I work for an LED company, and I know how inflated the Lifetime and Output claims of LED's can be, that being said... I'm dying to have an LED TV and so I have a tough choice ahead of me.

The Tech's servicing my Mits said that last years' Samsung LED sets were constantly frying LEDs due to poor heatsinking, and that the replacement pcs were often damaged prior to install due to poor static control. They hadn't serviced this years crop.

If you get the EW without "bulb replacement" does it still cover LED replacement?

Don't misunderstand... I'm not saying the build quality is 4000% better or even that the components are... but just the picture quality (at least to me)... if I could compare my Mits to the Sammy one on one... my Mits would have been like looking through a dirty glass, where the Sammy is like looking out an open door.

It's funny you talk about bad PCBs coming directly from Samsung... my service guys had the same issue trying to fix my Mits. The plus side being of course that afte the 3rd bad/non-working PCB to fix my TV the techs talked BB into a junk out so it worked out in the end.

My Mits problems were different from yours though... after 6wks of owning it, I started to notice that the left 1/3 (vertical) side of my screen would "fall behind" the rest of the action... causing a slight delay... this got worse to include the right 1/3 of my screen. So at it's worse, it was like having 3 seperate screens playing the same show... just a few microseconds delayed between each one. It was kinda trippy, lol.


Lastly, if you bought your Mits through BB and have their plan you're going to "junk exchange" for... they only offered me about $1800 on first speaking with them. I had to argue and fight to get them to up it to $2299. Basically they said that "this 56" low end DLP is in line with your junked set" and it's cost was $1800 something. I basically said, F-that... and said I bought nearly top-o-the-line when I got the Mits and paid nearly $4000... it's not my fault that it didn't support 1080p, ect, ect. After about 30min they then found a "higher end" 56" (none LED DLP) for 2299 to appease me... the same price as the 61" LED I wanted. Just wanted to let you know the price range they'll probably start you at.... 1600-1800 would be my guess. Fight if you can... and use me as an example if you want.

Quick Question...

I know if I'm using HDMI and the Optical out... the TV will only pass 2 channel audio and that it passes 5.1 audio if I'm using OTA/Cable.

What is passed if I'm using Component cables? Say if I hook up a Nintendo Wii through the component cables... the Wii supports Analog Dolby Pro Logic II... so would this be passed correctly out of the optical???

Quick Question...

I know if I'm using HDMI and the Optical out... the TV will only pass 2 channel audio and that it passes 5.1 audio if I'm using OTA/Cable.

What is passed if I'm using Component cables? Say if I hook up a Nintendo Wii through the component cables... the Wii supports Analog Dolby Pro Logic II... so would this be passed correctly out of the optical???



Ran my own test... The Wii's DPLII signal is passed perfectly by the optical out.

This is good news for me as this just freed up a component in on my AVR... and now I can add my HDD/DVDR. :D ...but if the next Nintendo system supports real digital then... wait, I'm talking Nintendo here... never mind. :rolleyes:

The 56" would be a nice fit for my existing space, but I'm having a hard time denying the lure of the 61" unit... bigger IS better ;)

My wife has developed a quite a critical eye.. she was the one who urged me to get the Mits serviced, the wavy lines were driving her nuts, while I was learning to cope... but I'm sure I'll be more critical "right out of the box" on what ever new unit I decide on.

Get the 61". I made the mistake of getting the 56" thinking 61" would be too big, and now I think the 56" is too small. My fear was as the TV size gets larger, the PQ gets more stretched and looks worse, but the image quality on my 56" is superb and the 61" would have suited me better, just as good PQ.

So as I inch closer and closer to getting the 67, I go to Amazon every morning to check their pricing. Yesterday it was 3% off, today 6%. When/if it gets to 10%, I'll most likely bite, because I can't stand this waiting any longer. :rolleyes:

I'm curious, though, why do Amazon's prices fluctuate so much (for a while this was with HD-DVDs as well), especially since they will price match their own site for 30 days. Supply and demand? Other online retailers seem to keep their prices steady, except maybe for some specific promotion.

Does anyone recall if there are images of the reflection issue in this thread anywhere? I thought I could sift through them, but it's just too much. I'm trying to decide if it's really a major problem or not. I've seen comments on it here and also on Amazon, so it must be something that appears more than just really rarely.

i think we should start a 67" discussion thread :(

So as I inch closer and closer to getting the 67, I go to Amazon every morning to check their pricing. Yesterday it was 3% off, today 6%. When/if it gets to 10%, I'll most likely bite, because I can't stand this waiting any longer. :rolleyes:



Just get it from Sears. It's already 10% off there.

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_05754028000P?vName=Computers+%26+Electronics&cName=Televisions&sName=Projection+TVs

anyone ever used hometheatrestore.com? Whats their reputation? If its good, then they have the cheapest price by far... same price as BB sells the 61

thanks

Just get it from Sears. It's already 10% off there.

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_05754028000P?vName=Computers+%26+Electronics&cName=Televisions&sName=Projection+TVs
Considered it. But then I'd have to pay tax and delivery. With Amazon, not only free shipping/delivery, but I'd also get 12-mos of no interest on my Amazon VISA.

Does anyone recall if there are images of the reflection issue in this thread anywhere? I thought I could sift through them, but it's just too much. I'm trying to decide if it's really a major problem or not. I've seen comments on it here and also on Amazon, so it must be something that appears more than just really rarely.

Back on page 78 are some. There may be more. Searching the thread for "reflection" brings up a bunch of hits.

So as I inch closer and closer to getting the 67, I go to Amazon every morning to check their pricing. Yesterday it was 3% off, today 6%. When/if it gets to 10%, I'll most likely bite, because I can't stand this waiting any longer. :rolleyes:

I'm curious, though, why do Amazon's prices fluctuate so much (for a while this was with HD-DVDs as well), especially since they will price match their own site for 30 days. Supply and demand? Other online retailers seem to keep their prices steady, except maybe for some specific promotion.

Those of you who already have or are planning on getting the 67"... what is your viewing distance like? I really, really want the 67" and have been looking forward to it for some time. But my wife keeps telling me that she's afraid it will be too big for our living room and that the 61" might be the answer.

But what kinds of distances are you 67" owners using them at, and do you have any regrets wihth going with the 67" as opposed to the 61"?

So as I inch closer and closer to getting the 67, I go to Amazon every morning to check their pricing. Yesterday it was 3% off, today 6%. When/if it gets to 10%, I'll most likely bite, because I can't stand this waiting any longer. :rolleyes:

I'm curious, though, why do Amazon's prices fluctuate so much (for a while this was with HD-DVDs as well), especially since they will price match their own site for 30 days. Supply and demand? Other online retailers seem to keep their prices steady, except maybe for some specific promotion.
8% right now, you're almost there.

Those of you who already have or are planning on getting the 67"... what is your viewing distance like? I really, really want the 67" and have been looking forward to it for some time. But my wife keeps telling me that she's afraid it will be too big for our living room and that the 61" might be the answer.

But what kinds of distances are you 67" owners using them at, and do you have any regrets wihth going with the 67" as opposed to the 61"?

Well, I had my 67" at about 10.5 feet and it was fine. If it wasn't for my PQ issue, I would not have gone back to the 61" I swapped it out for (geometry issues).

It's funny, my Sony KDS-60A3000 seemingly towers over me and my girlfriend from the same distance, but I have no such issues with the 61" or 67"!

And on the whole PQ issue, got a new 61" delivered yesterday and have that beautiful, bright picture again, along with much better geometry (but not as good as the 67"). Don't know what it was about that HL67A750.

Those of you who already have or are planning on getting the 67"... what is your viewing distance like?
I was torn between the 61" and 67" as well. My viewing distance is 9'. There is a thread on here that discusses this that made me comfortable with going for the 67". I'll see if I can dig it up when I get home from work and post a link.

8% right now, you're almost there.
I'm frothing at the bit. :D

EDIT: VinnieVol: here the Viewing Distance and Size (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1001290&highlight=viewing+distance) thread.

Is there any way I can calibrate my TV on my own? Or do I have to drop 300 bucks for someone to come out and do it?


Do I even need to do it?

The reason Amazon's prices fluctuate almost daily on items like this is that Amazon doesn't sell them directly. I'm not sure how it works, exactly, but Amazon.com is often more of a listing agent for other companies. You'll notice on Amazon's listing of the TV, right under the words 'In Stock', it says 'Ships from and sold by 6ave' (at least it does today) and has a link to the company info and their seller feedback ratings.

I've noticed that the 'Ships from and sold by' source changes fairly regularly (along with the prices). I've tried going to the individual dealers' websites and seeing if I can get a better deal from them instead of going through Amazon, but for some reason, the price on Amazon is always considerably cheaper. For example, on 6th Avenue Electronics' website, the 61A750 is $2099 whereas from Amazon, it's 1763.86, even though 6th Avenue is the actual seller.

Is there any way I can calibrate my TV on my own? Or do I have to drop 300 bucks for someone to come out and do it?

Do I even need to do it?

That's really up to you. No one needs to do it. If you want to adjust brightness/contrast/color/sharpness/gamma you can use a "calibration" DVD like Get Gray, Avia, Digital Video Essentials, etc. If you want the TV professionally calibrated it will cost you. I had my last TV professionally calibrated and while I felt it was worth the money this TV has a very impressive image out-of-box. I couldn't get my last TV's color close to standard by myself. This one, not a problem.

Considered it. But then I'd have to pay tax and delivery. With Amazon, not only free shipping/delivery, but I'd also get 12-mos of no interest on my Amazon VISA.

I always forget about tax. I live in Oregon, so I don't have to deal with it.

8% right now, you're almost there.

6ave is selling it for the 8% off

I see. Guess I gotta watch the "ships and SOld from" more closely.

At 20+ inches in depth, the 67" has just a little too much "back" for me.

as in; "Baby Got too much back".

did we ever decide what the stand of choice (price / looks / center channel) was for the 67" unit?

What exactly is 1/2" vertical geometry issue?

This is what 1/2" vertical geometry issues looks like...

111135

111136

is the effect on the picture obvious to non-videophiles?

I would think so. I wouldn't accept that. Lucky, I don't have any such problem with my 61A750.

in regards to the bowing and geometry issues, some say they have issues, Many say they do not.
Maybe EVERYONE has issues, and MOST dont notice:rolleyes:

I mean what is the definitive answer here as far as why we get some units with geometry issues? if its not just the poor/flimsy case design and lack of internal bracing to prevent screen sway, then what else is it?
i discuss in depth my experience thus far with my hl61a750 in THIS THREAD (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=13963632#post13963632)

I finally got my 61A750!

Monday late afternoon I noticed it was delivered to Reno, which is where I am. It seemed a bit late to get a call to schedule delivery, so I expected it on tuesday. Just as I predicted, as soon as a manditory, department-wide meeting started and the head honcho got up to speak...Bzzzz...Bzzzz... Thankfully I had it on vibrate and was able to sneak out, but sheesh, my prediction was dead accurate when I'd get the call.

Since I work monday - friday, 8am - 5pm (I'm a corporate whore :( ) I was hoping they would either have saturday delivery in my area, or at least have after-5pm delivery. Nope, you only get to pick the day, which is monday - friday, and then they'll deliver it sometime between 11am - 3pm. They did say they'd give me a call 30mins before delivery, even 15mins before if I needed. I asked for a wednesday delivery.

My prediction today was wrong! I have some training at 2pm today and was expecting them to call me saying they'll be at my place around then. Nope, I got a call at 11:25am saying they'd be there at noon. Woohoo, that's when I'm home for lunch anyway!

Right on time the guys showed up. It was only one guy, and my apartment is on the second floor, but the box is surprisingly light when 2 guys carry it. When I asked if he was able to stick around until I check the geometry he said he was already planning on waiting for a functional test of somekind, he just wasn't allowed to do it himself. Excellent. I did have a printout from Amazon's white glove delivery description, just in case he said he couldn't.

TV was set on the Samsung stand, plugged in and I put the USB in. I was worried there would be some special way of getting to the test pattern image that would require me to look through the manual, and that the guy wouldn't stick around for that. Nope, it was extremely simple. Plug it in, the TV recognises a USB drive is in there, select Images and the pattern is there.

I don't know what all I'm looking for, but here's what I do see already: There seems to be a slight geometry issue, though I'm not sure the official term for it. Basically, if a vertical line is on the screen, the top of the line is leaned slightly left compared to the bottom of the line. The screen is tilted ever so slightly counter-clockwise. I didn't measure the difference, but it seems less than half an inch, probably even less than a quarter. I can barely notice it with the test pattern, and when I later had videos and GTA4 (XBox, via HDMI) on the screen I couldn't at all. As bad as I've read some people's are, I think I'll consider this within acceptable ranges.

NOTE: I AM able to "fix" it by applying a little bit a pressure to the top of the screen! In either this thread or the owners FAQ thread there was mention that you could "bend" the top of the cabinent on the 67inch version and the geometry seemed to "correct" itself. I'm able to do this with mine. I didn't see anybody say they could do this with their 61inch, though...so is my cabinent not solid?!

I also did notice, when watching some videos in letterbox format, some white bleeding on the top portion of the screen. I could only see this when there was something bright white, though. This has been mentioned before, but I forgot if there was mention of a fix. I'll look around for that, but if not, so far it doesn't seem annoying enough to justify a return.

In fact, unless I can find anything else wrong, this TV looks like a keeper. The issues that are there are minor and I probably would never have noticed unless I knew what to look for because of these threads.

As for the image quality, I'm not sure if I'm a good judge of that. I'm moving from a budget, 8+ year old 27" TV. I'm happy with the picture, so far, even without any adjustments (which will be done after work). I'm glad I went with the 61inch, too. I don't recall my viewing distance exactly, normally around 8-10ft I think (but it's probably closer since this TV doesn't fit where my small one did, so it sits closer), and this seems to be just the right size. A lot bigger in person and in my apartment than it seemed when I saw it at Best Buy, too (though that's probably because they had it next to some 70+inch sets), but it doesn't feel too big.

As for Eagle delivery, the guy who delivered was extremely cool and very nice, as was the lady who I spoke with over the phone. The delivery guy hung around with me for a while longer than I was expecting, and not once did he seemed hurried to leave. He also, once he found out I knew a little about how to test the TV, was asking questions for when he delivers and sets up another DLP.

OK, back to work. Adjustments and firmware updates after work, as well as more geometry and quality testing and purchasing the Mack warranty. I'll see if I can post some pictures, too.

NOTE: I AM able to "fix" it by applying a little bit a pressure to the top of the screen! In either this thread or the owners FAQ thread there was mention that you could "bend" the top of the cabinent on the 67inch version and the geometry seemed to "correct" itself. I'm able to do this with mine. I didn't see anybody say they could do this with their 61inch, though...so is my cabinent not solid?!

JP, look at my thread above yours and at the very bottom there is a LINK to my post from the 61A750 Owners THread. READ THAT! Actually here just click THIS (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=13963632#post13963632)
We are on the same page (except for my packaging complaints)

JP, look at my thread above yours and at the very bottom there is a LINK to my post from the 61A750 Owners THread. READ THAT! Actually here just click THIS (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=13963632#post13963632)
We are on the same page (except for my packaging complaints)

Oh, haha! I was still writing when you posted, and as soon as I hit "send" I went back to work for a bit. I just read your post, glad to know I'm not the only one who can move the cabinent like that, but I still wish it was more solid (unless...we both got lemons?). I guess once it's on the stand it won't matter too much for me, though, as I don't have any little kids / pets and it won't be moved around.

As for the packaging, you make a good point. I was actually worried about my set until the delivery guy and I spent some time checking for damage. There was a large puncture in the box and we were worried it hit the screen or something. Thankfully it was at the top, on the side the back of the TV was at, so whatever put the whole on the box didn't reach in far enough to hit the TV.

I'll officially measure the tilt I mentioned when I get home, and see if I can see the colored lines you mentioned.

The reason Amazon's prices fluctuate almost daily on items like this is that Amazon doesn't sell them directly. I'm not sure how it works, exactly, but Amazon.com is often more of a listing agent for other companies. You'll notice on Amazon's listing of the TV, right under the words 'In Stock', it says 'Ships from and sold by 6ave' (at least it does today) and has a link to the company info and their seller feedback ratings.

I've noticed that the 'Ships from and sold by' source changes fairly regularly (along with the prices). I've tried going to the individual dealers' websites and seeing if I can get a better deal from them instead of going through Amazon, but for some reason, the price on Amazon is always considerably cheaper. For example, on 6th Avenue Electronics' website, the 61A750 is $2099 whereas from Amazon, it's 1763.86, even though 6th Avenue is the actual seller.


Sometimes it is sold and shipped by Amazon. They say it will be in stock May 30, 2008. When they have it in stock, they will sell and ship it. If they are out, others sell and ship it.

My Mits problems were different from yours though... after 6wks of owning it, I started to notice that the left 1/3 (vertical) side of my screen would "fall behind" the rest of the action... causing a slight delay... this got worse to include the right 1/3 of my screen. So at it's worse, it was like having 3 seperate screens playing the same show... just a few microseconds delayed between each one. It was kinda trippy, lol.



Lastly, if you bought your Mits through BB and have their plan you're going to "junk exchange" for... they only offered me about $1800 on first speaking with them. I had to argue and fight to get them to up it to $2299. Basically they said that "this 56" low end DLP is in line with your junked set" and it's cost was $1800 something. I basically said, F-that... and said I bought nearly top-o-the-line when I got the Mits and paid nearly $4000... it's not my fault that it didn't support 1080p, ect, ect. After about 30min they then found a "higher end" 56" (none LED DLP) for 2299 to appease me... the same price as the 61" LED I wanted. Just wanted to let you know the price range they'll probably start you at.... 1600-1800 would be my guess. Fight if you can... and use me as an example if you want.

Wow... that's some funky failure mode :eek:

Thanx for the tip... I'm expecting to get/make that call tomorrow... I'll be sure to push for the set I want. :)

The reason Amazon's prices fluctuate almost daily on items like this is that Amazon doesn't sell them directly. I'm not sure how it works, exactly, but Amazon.com is often more of a listing agent for other companies. You'll notice on Amazon's listing of the TV, right under the words 'In Stock', it says 'Ships from and sold by 6ave' (at least it does today) and has a link to the company info and their seller feedback ratings.

I've noticed that the 'Ships from and sold by' source changes fairly regularly (along with the prices). I've tried going to the individual dealers' websites and seeing if I can get a better deal from them instead of going through Amazon, but for some reason, the price on Amazon is always considerably cheaper. For example, on 6th Avenue Electronics' website, the 61A750 is $2099 whereas from Amazon, it's 1763.86, even though 6th Avenue is the actual seller.
OK, very informative, thanks. I've only noticed the "Ship from and sold by" as Amazon. This is the first I've seen it as 6th Ave. And you're right: the 67" is listed as $2499 on their own website, while $2294 (-8%) on Amazon's. You also can select a "sold by Amazon" on the right, but that's only 6% off.

So if you opt for a seller such as 6th Ave. through Amazon, does that mean for any problems that might arise, you would have to deal with 6th Ave.? Or would Amazon still be the contact?

For those interested, the HL72A650 is now available on CC, but not in stores according to the site.

OK, very informative, thanks. I've only noticed the "Ship from and sold by" as Amazon. This is the first I've seen it as 6th Ave. And you're right: the 67" is listed as $2499 on their own website, while $2294 (-8%) on Amazon's. You also can select a "sold by Amazon" on the right, but that's only 6% off.

So if you opt for a seller such as 6th Ave. through Amazon, does that mean for any problems that might arise, you would have to deal with 6th Ave.? Or would Amazon still be the contact?

I believe if you order through somebody other than Amazon, you'll have to deal directly with that company instead of Amazon. 6ave, from what I've heard, has good customer service...I'm actually waiting for a reciever I bought from them. I made sure to get the TV directly from Amazon, though...partly because I wanted to deal with them should any issues come up, but also because they had the best price at the time.

I believe if you order through somebody other than Amazon, you'll have to deal directly with that company instead of Amazon. 6ave, from what I've heard, has good customer service...I'm actually waiting for a reciever I bought from them. I made sure to get the TV directly from Amazon, though...partly because I wanted to deal with them should any issues come up, but also because they had the best price at the time.

Yeah, kinda how I feel about it as well. Plus I don't know if the free shipping/white glove delivery is affected by dealing with a 3rd party like 6th Ave. Guess I should make some phone calls.

Thanks.

Back on page 78 are some. There may be more. Searching the thread for "reflection" brings up a bunch of hits.

Found some on there and around that page, many thanks!

Just thought Id post up my impression of my new TV, an HL56A650. Have had it since earlier today, and so far Im super impressed. I was going for the 50'' since I have a small room to put this in, but none of the local stores had the 50'' in stock, so it was $100 more for the 56''. Got it home for only $1525 after tax. Really good picture, lots of great features, and Im pretty pleased with the speakers. Ive heard a lot of people complain about them. They arent GREAT, but they do a fair job once you play with the audio settings and equalizer. Like all HD TV's, without an HD signal, the standard channels look a bit poor, but still no worse than any other TV Ive seen hooked up to the same source. It looks GREAT with my PS3 though, games look amazing. Plan on watching my first Blu-Ray tomarrow to try it out further. Overall Id give this TV a:

9.5/10 Picture
8.5/10 Sound
8.0/10 Features
9.0/10 Overall

Great TV for a low price. Budget HD at its best, and its HUGE! I cant see ever needing something 70''+ unless you had a huge room for it. This thing takes up nearly half of my wall :)

Those of you who already have or are planning on getting the 67"... what is your viewing distance like? I really, really want the 67" and have been looking forward to it for some time. But my wife keeps telling me that she's afraid it will be too big for our living room and that the 61" might be the answer.

But what kinds of distances are you 67" owners using them at, and do you have any regrets wihth going with the 67" as opposed to the 61"?


I'm sitting about 9-10ft away from my 67"... I measured 8ft at one point that was before I finalized my setup and pushed the stand back towards the wall. Looks great from my view point... no screen door effect... and VERY mild SSE (if I look for it).

Well, I'm back home. Took a bit before I could mess around with it due to the phone ringing nonstop (including an aggressive telemarketer that actually called back after I told him I'm on the national do-not-call list and hung up on him :eek: ). Here's what I found:

- PQ was amazing out of the box, but holy frack is it even better after some tweaking. I'm using the recommended settings in the FAQ thread (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1029686). I tried StevenZ's settings, but at the moment (might just be what I'm watching) I'm liking the slightly over-saturated look mike_pro has in the FAQ.
- I measured the vertical geometry issue I noticed: 3/16 of an inch. I think that's ok, as I don't notice it unless the test pattern is on, even if I'm looking for it and there's strait vertical lines.
- Reflection issue on the top black bar, when the video has those bars, is indeed there, but I barely notice it. I don't think it'll be an issue.
- I was seeing some wierd crease like things on the screen when it was pitch black, but in all honesty I'm not sure if it's the screen or some kind of reflection yet. If it's the TV, I'll update.

I'd post some pictures, but I don't think there's any need since I don't have any issues to show and my room's a mess (still moving in and there's boxes stacked all around the TV)...unless people want any, then I will.

I just ordered DirectTV. I was waiting for the TV to get here before I got that. This TV rocks, I can't wait to see some real HD content on it!

BTW: If anybody saw recommended XBox via HDMI settings, please point me there. In the FAQ thread, it's still listed as "This section still in progress", and looks like it's being tested with component (though I don't know if that makes a difference, hooking it up via component as opposed to HDMI).

Black Bar Relfection/Bleeding question...

I turned my "front circle light" to be on when the TV is off... I was sleeping on the couch when I woke up with a dark room and noticed I had a "glow" coming from the screen... it was from the circle light being on (tested on and off). The glow covered the bottom 1/4 of the screen. I then noticed that when I stood up from the couch, the glow disappeared. Bend down I can see it, stand up it's gone.

It didn't hit me until now (I'm at work and can't test).... does the black bar reflection disappear if you stand higher than the screen?... maybe if you take a chair and stand higher?

If it does go away.... I wonder something even crazier... could opening the case, removing the screen and turning the the screen 180 fix the issue? It seems that it has to do with how the light bends through the screen and I just wonder if it we flipped the screen if we'd fix the problem?

...Just "typing" out loud and seeing what everyone thinks.

BTW: If anybody saw recommended XBox via HDMI settings, please point me there. In the FAQ thread, it's still listed as "This section still in progress", and looks like it's being tested with component (though I don't know if that makes a difference, hooking it up via component as opposed to HDMI).


I don't know about any "settings"... but keep in mind that the TV will only pass 2 channel audio via the optical out if you plug in through HDMI. I have my 360 plugged into my AVR via HDMI so I don't have the problem. Not sure if the TV passes 5.1 audio from other sources... or if all inputs are locked down (minus OTA/Cable/Sat signals of course)

... any chance we can get someone to work on the Firmware of these sets and hack us a fix to allow 5.1 digital audio out of the TV?... seems pointless to me to have 3 HDMI inputs, but then no pass 5.1 audio to an AVR.

Has anyone performed any comparisons of picture quality when using external video processing from an AV receiver, such as the Onkyo TX-SR875, which uses the Reon HQV processor for upscaling and de-interlacing to the Samsung's native 1080p resolution?

I've been testing the SR875, trying to improve PQ of SD 480i source content. Though I do see a modest improvement in the upscaling of SD content, I have experienced an 11-second "looking for signals", message from the Samsung A750 when changing channels that have different source resolutions (480i, 720p and 1080).

Does anyone prefer using the scaler/de-interlacer built into the Samsung 650/750s versus VP via a "high performance" AV receiver? Has anyone had the "looking for signals" message when changing cable/sat channels that have different source resolutions?

Thanks in advance for your input.

OK, very informative, thanks. I've only noticed the "Ship from and sold by" as Amazon. This is the first I've seen it as 6th Ave. And you're right: the 67" is listed as $2499 on their own website, while $2294 (-8%) on Amazon's. You also can select a "sold by Amazon" on the right, but that's only 6% off.

So if you opt for a seller such as 6th Ave. through Amazon, does that mean for any problems that might arise, you would have to deal with 6th Ave.? Or would Amazon still be the contact?

My guess is that you would contact Amazon first, but I have no first-hand experience with this and I'm not sure how that all works. Obviously whatever agreement these companies have with Amazon has them selling items for less than the price they sell directly from their own websites.

Amazon has their own name on the line in these transactions, so I assume that they have a vested interest in how their clients handle problems. If you have a problem and can go through Amazon to address it, you may have a little more leverage with the company that sold the product.

Those of you who already have or are planning on getting the 67"... what is your viewing distance like? I really, really want the 67" and have been looking forward to it for some time. But my wife keeps telling me that she's afraid it will be too big for our living room and that the 61" might be the answer.

But what kinds of distances are you 67" owners using them at, and do you have any regrets wihth going with the 67" as opposed to the 61"?

I don't understand this whole issue people have with viewing distance. You don't look at life through a little rectangle out in front of you. You have to turn your head to take it all in!

Your TV should be the same...

in regards to the bowing and geometry issues, some say they have issues, Many say they do not.
Maybe EVERYONE has issues, and MOST dont notice:rolleyes:

I mean what is the definitive answer here as far as why we get some units with geometry issues? if its not just the poor/flimsy case design and lack of internal bracing to prevent screen sway, then what else is it?
i discuss in depth my experience thus far with my hl61a750 in THIS THREAD (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=13963632#post13963632)

Again, this has been a Samsung DLP issue since day 1. I have the original DLP with a sturdy casing. I went through 2 or 3 of them. The geometry wasn't the same on any of them. I've been through 2 HL61A750, geometry/focus different on both. There are a lot of parts in these things in the image path. They don't have the quality control down to where each one rolling off the assembly line is exactly the same, and obviously at this point don't care to try.

Its still pretty simple, if you don't want to deal with geometry/focus issues, and potentially go through numerous sets, you're better off with plasma or LCD. I don't care how picky or not picky you are, you have the potential to get a set with major geometry or focus issues. If the people that claim to not care got all the sets with the major issues, this wouldn't be talked about so much maybe ;)

Has anyone performed any comparisons of picture quality when using external video processing from an AV receiver, such as the Onkyo TX-SR875, which uses the Reon HQV processor for upscaling and de-interlacing to the Samsung's native 1080p resolution?

...Does anyone prefer using the scaler/de-interlacer built into the Samsung 650/750s versus VP via a "high performance" AV receiver? Has anyone had the "looking for signals" message when changing cable/sat channels that have different source resolutions?

Thanks in advance for your input.
I prefer to use the scaler in the 61A750. See my post #3432.

Just thought Id post up my impression of my new TV, an HL56A650.Samsung-Guy... Just curious. What is the firmware version in your set? All I need are the numbers at the end of the first set of letters that start with "T-CTNAUSC-." I have seen 1001.2 and 1003.1.

Thanks.

(If you are not aware of the procedure for viewing firmware version... Using the remote, press menu, scroll to "Setup," press "Enter," scroll to "SW Upgrade" and press "INFO." The firmware info will appear at the bottom of the screen.)

I don't understand this whole issue people have with viewing distance. You don't look at life through a little rectangle out in front of you. You have to turn your head to take it all in!

Your TV should be the same...

It's really just a matter of preference I suppose. I have friends who have an older 61" Sammy bulb unit and love it at a distance of 8 ft., and I know people who still view a 27" screen at 20 ft.

Before I moved out of my old apt. I had my 39" tube set in my bedroom and it was honestly too big. But that whole set is just huge period, I still can't get over the size of tube sets when you compare them to these slim DLP units (let alone plasma and lcd). I also know that 1080p changes the "formula" for optimal viewing distance.

But my gut is telling me, "screw it, you only live once.. get the 67" and enjoy!" We'll see. I'm in the process of new home construction so the room that this tv will go in doesn't actually even exist yet.. I know the dimensions of the room but I don't really have a feel for how the viewing area will be set up.

For those who have the 67A750, what height stand makes sense ?

I'm hoping that 20 inches or so plus the base height of the tv is the right height, can anyone who has the 67 inch comment ?

here's the one I'm thinking of.. going for 'light/airy' since tv is not..

http://www.bushfurniturecentral.com/Bush-Furniture-VS44850-03-BU2096.html

its the Bush VS44850 if the link doesn't work

I'd love a nice sanus wood stand but 1000 bucks for a stand (I'm in canada) is a bit much

thanks

OK, very informative, thanks. I've only noticed the "Ship from and sold by" as Amazon. This is the first I've seen it as 6th Ave. And you're right: the 67" is listed as $2499 on their own website, while $2294 (-8%) on Amazon's. You also can select a "sold by Amazon" on the right, but that's only 6% off.

So if you opt for a seller such as 6th Ave. through Amazon, does that mean for any problems that might arise, you would have to deal with 6th Ave.? Or would Amazon still be the contact?

If it's not shipped and sold by Amazon, they are basically just selling you the item from a 3rd party, like 6ave.com, and have nothing to do with it. If you read amazon's policy, they basically have nothing to do with the item, you are buying it from the 3rd party and are subject to their policies, so read the 3rd party seller's policies to be sure they are OK for you.

FWIW I bought a Pioneer Plasma from 6ave, and it was a good experience, but they do have different policies than amazon, so read them first.

Picked up a new HL61A750 from Circuit City for $1899.99 and absolutely love it. I was originally wanting the 63" Sammy plasma, but because of the amount of light I have in my viewing area, and the fact that the picture on the 61A750 was just SO good that I couldn't bring myself to pay the extra $4,000 for the plasma. I was able to buy the tv, tv stand, AND a set of two fronts + center Bowers & Wilkins series 703 speakers all for the price of just the plasma by itself. :P

So I picked up the new tv, brought it home, and had to bring it right back....:(
At first glance, the tv was perfect. I was watching "Cars" on Blu-Ray when I noticed a black spot toward the bottom of the screen. It looked like a small group of pixels or something that were completely out and, of course, my eyes were drawn to this black dot staring at me in the middle of all these super bright, brilliant colors.

I packed it back up and swapped it out, now I have no issues. The second tv came out of a new shipment, not sure of the firmware version, but it was actually delivered to CC yesterday morning. This is perfect thought, no black dots and absolutely amazing picture. I just can't say enough about this tv.

I DO have a question though. I don't understand what it means when you guys are talking about 1080p @ x amount of Hz. In reference to the frequency spec (24Hz, 60Hz, 120Hz, etc.), is more better??

I am asking because I am using my PS3 as my dvd player, have it hooked up with a Monster Cable HDMI, and when the main PS3 menu is being displayed, I hit the info button on my tv remote and it says that the picture is being displayed in 1080p @60Hz, yet when I play a Blu-Ray movie (like Cars), it reduces down to 1080p @ 24Hz. Why? What's happening, and is this supposed to happen?? I thought this tv supported 1080p @ 120Hz?

For those who have the 67A750, what height stand makes sense ?

I'm hoping that 20 inches or so plus the base height of the tv is the right height, can anyone who has the 67 inch comment ?

here's the one I'm thinking of.. going for 'light/airy' since tv is not..

http://www.bushfurniturecentral.com/Bush-Furniture-VS44850-03-BU2096.html

its the Bush VS44850 if the link doesn't work

I'd love a nice sanus wood stand but 1000 bucks for a stand (I'm in canada) is a bit much

thanks

First figure out what your eye level is when sitting down.

As for the TV, and this based on calculations and a few assumptions, the edges on the side are 1.2". This is based on a 58.4" wide screen, calcualted using the 15:9 ration. The set is listed as 60.*' wide, that means each side is 1.2" (cabinet). Assume top is the same size, fair assumption.

The screen height is 32.85", so the bottom par tof cabinet is 6.25". So that puts the center of the screen at about 22.7", so with a 20" stand you are at 42.7" for the center of the screen.

See how this compares with your eye level when sitting.

Hope that helps.

Picked up a new HL61A750 from Circuit City for $1899.99 and absolutely love it. I was originally wanting the 63" Sammy plasma, but because of the amount of light I have in my viewing area, and the fact that the picture on the 61A750 was just SO good that I couldn't bring myself to pay the extra $4,000 for the plasma. I was able to buy the tv, tv stand, AND a set of two fronts + center Bowers & Wilkins series 703 speakers all for the price of just the plasma by itself. :P

So I picked up the new tv, brought it home, and had to bring it right back....:(
At first glance, the tv was perfect. I was watching "Cars" on Blu-Ray when I noticed a black spot toward the bottom of the screen. It looked like a small group of pixels or something that were completely out and, of course, my eyes were drawn to this black dot staring at me in the middle of all these super bright, brilliant colors.

I packed it back up and swapped it out, now I have no issues. The second tv came out of a new shipment, not sure of the firmware version, but it was actually delivered to CC yesterday morning. This is perfect thought, no black dots and absolutely amazing picture. I just can't say enough about this tv.

I DO have a question though. I don't understand what it means when you guys are talking about 1080p @ x amount of Hz. In reference to the frequency spec (24Hz, 60Hz, 120Hz, etc.), is more better??

I am asking because I am using my PS3 as my dvd player, have it hooked up with a Monster Cable HDMI, and when the main PS3 menu is being displayed, I hit the info button on my tv remote and it says that the picture is being displayed in 1080p @60Hz, yet when I play a Blu-Ray movie (like Cars), it reduces down to 1080p @ 24Hz. Why? What's happening, and is this supposed to happen?? I thought this tv supported 1080p @ 120Hz?

My understanding is that he Hz displayed on the TV are showing the refresh rate of the source, not the TV. Movies are 24Hz (because of an old standard). Most TVs dispaly in 60Hz, the problem is that there is no direct multiple of 24 that gets you to 60, so there are fillers introduced. 120 is a direct multiple of 24 and thus you get a better experience on movies.

Again, that's only the way I've understood it so far from readin these forums and other sites.

My understanding is that he Hz displayed on the TV are showing the refresh rate of the source, not the TV. Movies are 24Hz (because of an old standard). Most TVs dispaly in 60Hz, the problem is that there is no direct multiple of 24 that gets you to 60, so there are fillers introduced. 120 is a direct multiple of 24 and thus you get a better experience on movies.

Again, that's only the way I've understood it so far from readin these forums and other sites.Excellent response. I was about to post my 5-paragraph response when I saw yours, which is directly on point.

Thank you for the fast responses, I appreciate it.

So, you say that 120 is a direct multiple of 24 which would produce a better picture for movies. If the A750 is 120Hz capable, why isn't it playing high def movies at 120Hz?

The movie is actually sent at 24Hz, and since the TV is capable of showing 120Hz, it shows each frame 5 times in a row from the 24Hz source.

If you had a 60Hz TV, it would show the same frame 2 times, then the next frame is drawn 3 times, then the next frame is drawn 2 times, then the next is drawn 2 times, etc.

The source is always sent at 24Hz, it's whether or not the tv can show it exactly as it should be shown. For a 120Hz TV, it draws each frame 5 times before it goes to the next frame.

Thanks NDRugby... most appreciated.

sd

looks like something useful to add to the faq (if its not already there)

<edit> its already in there </edit>

:)

If it's not shipped and sold by Amazon, they are basically just selling you the item from a 3rd party, like 6ave.com, and have nothing to do with it. If you read amazon's policy, they basically have nothing to do with the item, you are buying it from the 3rd party and are subject to their policies, so read the 3rd party seller's policies to be sure they are OK for you.

FWIW I bought a Pioneer Plasma from 6ave, and it was a good experience, but they do have different policies than amazon, so read them first.
At the moment, you can select the TV to be shipped from Amazon as well as 6th Ave (6% off vs. 8%), and there are apparent differences which reflect what you say. There's no mention of White Glove delivery when buying it from 6th Ave., but if you select one that is shipped by Amazon, there is, but apparently it's not free (unless there's a free option available when you checkout).

I still think I would like to deal directly with Amazon, but, for the record, how was your plasma shipped from 6th Ave.?

Again, this has been a Samsung DLP issue since day 1. I have the original DLP with a sturdy casing. I went through 2 or 3 of them. The geometry wasn't the same on any of them. I've been through 2 HL61A750, geometry/focus different on both. There are a lot of parts in these things in the image path. They don't have the quality control down to where each one rolling off the assembly line is exactly the same, and obviously at this point don't care to try.

Its still pretty simple, if you don't want to deal with geometry/focus issues, and potentially go through numerous sets, you're better off with plasma or LCD. I don't care how picky or not picky you are, you have the potential to get a set with major geometry or focus issues. If the people that claim to not care got all the sets with the major issues, this wouldn't be talked about so much maybe ;)

point well taken. however it still annoys me to think how a little bit of R&D dollars at samsung could fix this cabinet/case issue and reduce if not eliminate the screen sway causing the geometry issues.
I mean you would think the returns alone would affect their bottom line enough for them to voluntarily make the R&D investment into fixing the design flaws in what could be an outstanding product!

Well, I'm back home. Took a bit before I could mess around with it due to the phone ringing nonstop (including an aggressive telemarketer that actually called back after I told him I'm on the national do-not-call list and hung up on him :eek: ). Here's what I found:

- PQ was amazing out of the box, but holy frack is it even better after some tweaking. I'm using the recommended settings in the FAQ thread (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1029686). I tried StevenZ's settings, but at the moment (might just be what I'm watching) I'm liking the slightly over-saturated look mike_pro has in the FAQ.
- I measured the vertical geometry issue I noticed: 3/16 of an inch. I think that's ok, as I don't notice it unless the test pattern is on, even if I'm looking for it and there's strait vertical lines.
- Reflection issue on the top black bar, when the video has those bars, is indeed there, but I barely notice it. I don't think it'll be an issue.
- I was seeing some wierd crease like things on the screen when it was pitch black, but in all honesty I'm not sure if it's the screen or some kind of reflection yet. If it's the TV, I'll update.



ya know it seems to me if we so much as had a TILT adjustment in either the options menu or the service menu to offset the counterclockwise 3/16th to 5/16th issue, we would be good to go.i thought i remembered reading somewhere on this and the owners thread about one, but did not see anything other than up, down , left and right adjustments thus far.
After reading your thread above and further testing on my set last night, I'm finding the EXACT same outcome. mine also appears to be about 3/16th to 5/16ths off and is mostly noticeable at the bottom/left and top/right. again , slightly moving the edge of the screen appears to have the ability to correct this, but i cant seem to get it to stay in the correct position once i stop playing with the sway.
but at the same time i agree that it will only be seen on something that has lines, or a grid, etc and wont likely bother me since that doesnt happen that often. but i do know that when it does happen and i notice it I will be like ARGGG!
otherwise.. this tv has an unbelievable PQ. I couldnt believe how bright it was.
im about to post my test results in the owners thread, but wanted to jump over to this one first to reply to you.

I just bought the Mack warranty. On the page it says:

Q: Can I buy my TV from anywhere, and then get a Mack Warranty from TapeWorks Texas?
A: Yes, as long as your unit has a manufacturer's warranty to begin with, and you have a receipt with the model number, pricing, date, etc.

but in the ordering process it never asked for any of that. Will they only check this information if I need to actually use the warranty, or are they going to ask me to send this information in soon? I've got a printout of my Amazon invoice, I'm assuming that's good enough.

EDIT: Triple-X, once again you reply while I'm posting (I'm a slow typer sometimes) :) You're right, a tilt adjustment would be excellent as this would go a long way to helping the flimsy cabinent design. If they know the cabinent is going to bend / not always be dead accurate, why not find a way to adjust the tilt ever so slightly? I don't remember what I was doing at the time, but I do know I ran into a position screen that let me move the picture around vertically and horizontally...
Looking forward to test results. Anything that can help me get the best PQ out of this set

what is the warranty that comes with the 61 and 67 from samsung?

At the moment, you can select the TV to be shipped from Amazon as well as 6th Ave (6% off vs. 8%), and there are apparent differences which reflect what you say. There's no mention of White Glove delivery when buying it from 6th Ave., but if you select one that is shipped by Amazon, there is, but apparently it's not free (unless there's a free option available when you checkout).

I still think I would like to deal directly with Amazon, but, for the record, how was your plasma shipped from 6th Ave.?

On my TV, they offered free shipping with "curb" delivery, not "white glove." I believe for an extra $50 they offer in-home delivery, then for like $100 they have "white glove" where two guys deliver it, take it out of box, make sure it works, and remove the packing material, etc. (I'm not sure on that, you can view the options on the web site.)

What I did is stick with free shipping, then tossed the delivery guy a $20 when he got there. For that he brought my TV inside by himself, helped me unbox it, and make sure it didn't have damage and was not DOA (it was good.)

So I got "gray glove" delivery for $20. :D

I ordered it on Friday morning, and the next Friday afternoon they delivered it, New Jersey to TX. It actually got to TX a day earlier, but they had to call me, schedule a delivery, etc.

BTW, there is a 6% off internet coupon for 6ave.com, you can find it in google. If you are going to buy something via amazon and 3rd party (not "sold by amazon"), I say why bother, just go directly to the vendor.

I think "sold by amazon" pretty much is best though, they have an awesome return policy. That said, my experience with 6ave.com was good, and it appears their feedback rating is high.

I got my 56A650 a few days ago, and it's beautiful. Only problem I have with it is a bowing at the top half of the screen, which is about a 1/8th off from side of the screen to the center. The bottom half and the sides look fine. Is there anything I can do to fix this, or do I have to call Samsung for a repairman?

what is the warranty that comes with the 61 and 67 from samsung?
1 year parts & labor

I just bought the Mack warranty. On the page it says:

Q: Can I buy my TV from anywhere, and then get a Mack Warranty from TapeWorks Texas?
A: Yes, as long as your unit has a manufacturer's warranty to begin with, and you have a receipt with the model number, pricing, date, etc.

but in the ordering process it never asked for any of that. Will they only check this information if I need to actually use the warranty, or are they going to ask me to send this information in soon? I've got a printout of my Amazon invoice, I'm assuming that's good enough....

It's my understanding that 7-10 days after you place the purchase order online with Tapeworks, you will receive a warranty info package from Mack that will ask you to provide them with a copy of your dated sales receipt or information from the sales receipt.

ya know it seems to me if we so much as had a TILT adjustment in either the options menu or the service menu to offset the counterclockwise 3/16th to 5/16th issue, we would be good to go.i thought i remembered reading somewhere on this and the owners thread about one, but did not see anything other than up, down , left and right adjustments thus far.
After reading your thread above and further testing on my set last night, I'm finding the EXACT same outcome. mine also appears to be about 3/16th to 5/16ths off and is mostly noticeable at the bottom/left and top/right. again , slightly moving the edge of the screen appears to have the ability to correct this, but i cant seem to get it to stay in the correct position once i stop playing with the sway.
but at the same time i agree that it will only be seen on something that has lines, or a grid, etc and wont likely bother me since that doesnt happen that often. but i do know that when it does happen and i notice it I will be like ARGGG!
otherwise.. this tv has an unbelievable PQ. I couldnt believe how bright it was.
im about to post my test results in the owners thread, but wanted to jump over to this one first to reply to you.

The Service Manual has a TILT adjustment that I posted way back!!

I just bought the Mack warranty. On the page it says:

Q: Can I buy my TV from anywhere, and then get a Mack Warranty from TapeWorks Texas?
A: Yes, as long as your unit has a manufacturer's warranty to begin with, and you have a receipt with the model number, pricing, date, etc.


but in the ordering process it never asked for any of that. Will they only check this information if I need to actually use the warranty, or are they going to ask me to send this information in soon? I've got a printout of my Amazon invoice, I'm assuming that's good enough.



yeah i just got off the phone with SCOTT at tapeworks and asked a few questions to be sure about the details.
From what i found out, basically you buy the warranty on the tapeworks site(or via email and they call you for the details) and then they send you the warranty card in the mail, and you fill it out with all the details including brand, model, serial #, etc and send it back.
My questions were:
does the TV ONLY warranty cover IN HOME or do you have to ship or bring it to a near by authorized service center?
Answer is YES IT IS IN HOME. but depending on the issue and actual fix, sometimes it MAY have to go to the repair center for the work to be performed.
I also wanted to know, if i choose to exchange my tv for the same model, what about the serial number. He explained that the warranty card will be sent to me and when i fill it out to just put the serial number for the one I have, indicating that my return period would be thirty days anyway, as is the time period for the warranty card return. so swapping however many times until you get the a good TV is irrelevant.
also , asked, "what if I choose to upgrade to a better model instead of exchanging (ie the 67a750) could i then just upgrade my warranty coverage and pay the difference to do so.. again the answer is yes, but must be done within 30 days of receipt of the TV.

so all in all it looks like i am gonna go for it. I figure 125 for 4 total years of peace of mind is better than BB's 325 for 3 total years of
P$E$A$C$E of M$I$N$D and a bigger piece of my pocket.

EDIT: Triple-X, once again you reply while I'm posting (I'm a slow typer sometimes) :) You're right, a tilt adjustment would be excellent as this would go a long way to helping the flimsy cabinent design. If they know the cabinent is going to bend / not always be dead accurate, why not find a way to adjust the tilt ever so slightly? I don't remember what I was doing at the time, but I do know I ran into a position screen that let me move the picture around vertically and horizontally...
Looking forward to test results. Anything that can help me get the best PQ out of this set


JP: haha yes i do type a bit fast as im on, around, and fixing pcs all day(my job).
i read today here that someone saw the 67a750 in person and said the actual case/frame felt stiffer/sturdier than the 61a750, but that the picture quality and or brightness was not as good..?!?
That makes me wanna go see them side by side, and reset them both to factory spec to get an actual comparison. I had assumed that the 61 being as large as it is played a part in the frame/case sway which causing the geometry issues, so you would think the 67 would be Worse not Better,, ya know?
I need to see for myself, but I dont think anyplace local to me has both on display. as it is I could only find 1 BB store and 1 CC store that had the 61 750 on display, let alone on display AND in stock. I would luck out to find the 61 and 67 side by side let alone in the same store.

and yes, I also saw the vertical and horizontal adjustments in the main menu, but nothing for tilt(keystone basically,no?)
IMO that is the only thing I have an issue with thus far.(included or compounded into that "tilt issue" is also the cause of it.. being the flimsy frame/casing.
I mean , my cousin even said to me.. if you so much as barely touch the top of the frame(corners especially) you get so much movement on the screen..like what if you can manipulate it to the point where it looks good and corrects the geometry issue>? and then, what if you bump into it? He couldnt believe how flimsy it felt. But moments later was BLOWN away by the PQ.
I actually was surprised too at the basic adjustments myself. they seemed to be to have a minimalistic range of change, if you will, meaning the threshold of change on all of the adjustments from 0 to 100 on most of the settings seemed small. which leads me to believe there are probably like, magic settings that one can/must apply (like a cheat code in a video game) to bring out the full potential of this tv.
He also was astounded by how HIGH the contrast was set in each mode exclaiming, :you have gotta be kidding me! 100 contrast! OMG!

anyway.. im going to post my test results in the owners thread once I get a little more work done(too many pcs to fix).

I don't understand this whole issue people have with viewing distance. You don't look at life through a little rectangle out in front of you. You have to turn your head to take it all in!

Your TV should be the same...
I think it depends on your usuage.

I think it depends on your usuage.

I am NOT sewage.

On my TV, they offered free shipping with "curb" delivery, not "white glove." I believe for an extra $50 they offer in-home delivery, then for like $100 they have "white glove" where two guys deliver it, take it out of box, make sure it works, and remove the packing material, etc. (I'm not sure on that, you can view the options on the web site.)

What I did is stick with free shipping, then tossed the delivery guy a $20 when he got there. For that he brought my TV inside by himself, helped me unbox it, and make sure it didn't have damage and was not DOA (it was good.)

So I got "gray glove" delivery for $20. :D

I ordered it on Friday morning, and the next Friday afternoon they delivered it, New Jersey to TX. It actually got to TX a day earlier, but they had to call me, schedule a delivery, etc.

BTW, there is a 6% off internet coupon for 6ave.com, you can find it in google. If you are going to buy something via amazon and 3rd party (not "sold by amazon"), I say why bother, just go directly to the vendor.

I think "sold by amazon" pretty much is best though, they have an awesome return policy. That said, my experience with 6ave.com was good, and it appears their feedback rating is high.
Yeah, that would be my approach, too, the "let me buy you a few beers -- oh, and could you help me get the set inside and move it up on this stand before you go? Thanks a bunch." :D

On one hand, I agree, going directly to the 3rd party, be it 6th Ave. or Crutchfield or whoever, would make more sense. But I'd rather stick with Amazon, since I can use their VISA and have no interest/no monthly payments for a year.

EDIT: Scratch the Amazon VISA deal. Called them and apparently the no interest promo is only for their "store card", not the VISA, which I don't have nor really want to get. I'll figure this out eventually...

I just bought the Mack warranty.

I just got mine as well.
Now we wait for the warranty cards.
I presume we get them fill them out, then afterwards receive information regarding our specific models and what not?

I just emailed Brian asking as well. Like you I was a little surprised to not even see a simple invoice number or anything, but I was aware prior to ordering that none of the specific info is used now.. not until you get the forms from Mack do your model and serial number come into play. But oh well. we'll see.
I still need to post my test results in the owners thread.. every time im about to do it something comes up. this times its the LOST season finally.
woo hoo!
;)

So... how do these models compare in brightness and vividness to an LCD?

I had been pretty set on getting one. Only local place to look was BB was was looking at the A750. I'll have to say I wasn't as impressed as I thought I would be. It didn't seem as vivid as the LCDs on the wall, nor did it seem to be enough brighter than my 3 year old 52" mitsubishi 720p dlp to justify the upgrade. Was I just looking at a bad set up or is it NOT that much of an upgrade?

Honestly, thats the first thing i noticed.. Mine out of the box was incredibly bright. but not the one in the store. (If i were to look at any of these in the store i would reset the tv to factory default before i did any serious comparison).
I mean I had heard it the 750 was bright and certainly more so than the 650, but at times while testing some BD's I felt it was too bright and and found myself making instant adjustments.

Out of the box my set was on Dynamic. I instantly switched to standard, and then during playing some blurays I found myself taking a much better liking to movie mode, which just seems much more "natural" to me. less saturation and brightness in your face.
although i fully intend on trying out as many different users settings on here as I can find to help identify the best settings for the set and for my preferences.

I went to Best Buy earlier after work today where i just bought the 61" Samsung HL61A750 LED DLP. It gets delivered on Monday which is horrbily far away i was hoping for saturday but they dont deliver in my area on the weekened. I was able to use a 10% off coupon and get it for $1799.99 and got him to knock the Init 63" TV stand from 319.99 to $250 and give us Free Delivery all with 3 years no Interest. I had it down between the 65" Mitsubishi WD-65735 which had 4 extra inches and $180 less than i paid working for it. But i decided to not go the Lamp route to save some hassle even though i spent a bit more and got less screen i feel i made the right decision.

So... how do these models compare in brightness and vividness to an LCD?

I had been pretty set on getting one. Only local place to look was BB was was looking at the A750. I'll have to say I wasn't as impressed as I thought I would be. It didn't seem as vivid as the LCDs on the wall, nor did it seem to be enough brighter than my 3 year old 52" mitsubishi 720p dlp to justify the upgrade. Was I just looking at a bad set up or is it NOT that much of an upgrade?

Samsung sent me the 61A750 as a replacement for a 4071F LCD and this set is plenty bright. In fact I think it may be brighter than the LCD. It could just be the screen is so much larger, but I definitely would say there are no brightness issues with the TV.

Samsung sent me the 61A750 as a replacement for a 4071F LCD and this set is plenty bright. In fact I think it may be brighter than the LCD. It could just be the screen is so much larger, but I definitely would say there are no brightness issues with the TV.

Brighter than an LCD is NOT a good quality, unless you have your TV on the back porch or in a Mall.

Bought a 72a650 yesterday. They should deliver it on Saturday.
Paid 2650 plus tax. Please let me know if anyone sees it for cheeper as I have a 60 day price match.
Thank you
Will post my thoughts of the TV once delivered.

if only they made an LED version of the 72...yum

I went to Best Buy earlier after work today where i just bought the 61" Samsung HL61A750 LED DLP. It gets delivered on Monday which is horrbily far away i was hoping for saturday but they dont deliver in my area on the weekened. I was able to use a 10% off coupon and get it for $1799.99 and got him to knock the Init 63" TV stand from 319.99 to $250 and give us Free Delivery all with 3 years no Interest. I had it down between the 65" Mitsubishi WD-65735 which had 4 extra inches and $180 less than i paid working for it. But i decided to not go the Lamp route to save some hassle even though i spent a bit more and got less screen i feel i made the right decision.

i bought mine on monday of this week at bestbuy and managed to use a 10% off coupon and had them match circuit city so it was 1709.99 total. Then the stand it was displayed on caught my eye and i wanted it. It was supposed to be 299.99 and was a bush VS74351 (http://www.ifurn.com/xmodels/bush/VS74377-03h.jpg), but after some confusion with the tag on it the sales guy grabbed the manager who did some searching and found it was on clearance for 59.99!
Cause originally there was supposed to be a 100 discount on a stand with the purchase of a tv over 999$. so jokingly the mngr said" sorry man i wont be able to give you the 100 off on the stand" and I said WHY!, he replied, because its on clearance for 59.99. i was like SCORE!!!!!
so all in all i got the 61a750, the stand, and the 3 free bluray dvd pack for 1769.98!

Bought a 72a650 yesterday. They should deliver it on Saturday.
Paid 2650 plus tax. Please let me know if anyone sees it for cheeper as I have a 60 day price match.
Thank you
Will post my thoughts of the TV once delivered.

Awesome, would love to hear your thoughts. Saw it for 2495 + 135 delivery, no tax. B&H.

Hello everyone!
Well, it was finally time to replace the old Panasonic 47WX49, and pick up the 56H650. When deciding between this and the 750, it came down to the fact that the wife was willing to OK the 650, but the 750 was going to take some convincing on price. :D

Got it on Amazon, $1360 w/ free white glove shipping, should be here Tuesday.

I am sooooo stoked, will be hooking up the usual, plus the 360, an will be picking up a PS3 next week.

Great thread, I'll try out some of the settings in the FAQ, will post results and pics.

Just bought the 72a650 and it's being delivered on Sunday so i can't wait! In the mean time was just wondering if there was anything I should look out for when i set it up, any settings that need to be set so i get the best optimal viewing?? Any help would be appreciated.

Brighter than an LCD is NOT a good quality, unless you have your TV on the back porch or in a Mall.

Well, you have to realize how many on this thread have complained that the LED models are "not bright enough."

So then you take the thing home and turn it down--plus, many of us like to watch say, football, during the daytime in rooms that can't be darkened effectively. This is where "brighter than an LCD" can be a plus.

Then, at night, you turn the thing down again.

Comprende? :D

I just learned that Samsung Canada is not importing any DLP models other than the 67A750 LED into Canada. :(

Not happy about that. I was looking to buy the 72" model. Since the 7288 has been gone for a few months, I need to either settle for the 67" LED, or drive over the border for a 72A650.

Any recommendations for a B&M Samsung store in the Buffalo or Niagara Falls area?
Or perhaps a gray market Samsung importer in the Toronto area?

Edit: Costco Canada IS selling the HL72A650, but you have to call the store and ask which stores have inventory. When I called, there were only TWO 72A650 in Ontario Costco stores, both at the same Costco store in Burlington, Ontario.
I rented a full size GM cargo van, drove there, and purchased it for $2,500 plus taxes.

Side note, the box will NOT fit inside a full size GM cargo van (don't even think about a minivan). I took the entire top portion of the 72A650 box off, leaving the TV sitting in the cardboard and Styrofoam shipping 'tray', with just a thin wrapping still covering the rest of the set.

In that form, the 72A650 JUST fit into the back of the GM cargo van, and even then, it needed to slide in beside the center door latch at the top, as the TV was still too tall to fit down the very center of the truck.

I didn't want to lay the TV on its back, as these cargo vans have a rather rough ride, even on paved roads.

HL72A650 shipping box dimensions;
24.75" deep, 51.5" tall, and 71.75" wide.

Taking just the upper box section and upper foam inserts off (it just lifts off after you release the retainers) reduced the overall height by a few inches (I didn't measure by how much).

neither alternative sounds like settling to me :)

Is there any references around here or elsewhere for all the picture settings in the A750 series? The manual is pretty worthless for explaining what all the different settings really do.

Or maybe a list of suggested settings?

Is there any references around here or elsewhere for all the picture settings in the A750 series? The manual is pretty worthless for explaining what all the different settings really do.

Or maybe a list of suggested settings?

I think there's a FAQ in the first page of this thread.

Regarding the brightness...I've actually had, in the middle of the day and sunlight coming in through the windows on the TV, it be bright enough to make me squint because it felt too bright. I'm plenty happy with the brightness, but that's me.

Is there any references around here or elsewhere for all the picture settings in the A750 series?

The 61A750 Owners Thread: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1029686

Wow how this thread has grown ;))))))))

Anyway, I promised to post of few photos of our 67" when she was mounted on the DLP-2 Mounts. The camera does no justice and the signal is Discovery HD Theater at 1080i.

About 33" from the floor with a slight tilt forward and the floating shelves for the components yet to be installed.

http://americasarcade.com/hl67a750_mounted_01.jpg
http://americasarcade.com/hl67a750_mounted_02.jpg
http://americasarcade.com/hl67a750_mounted_03.jpg
http://americasarcade.com/hl67a750_mounted_04.jpg

We like it for our middle child in a room nobody sat in until we installed it.

Peace
MR

...Anyway, I promised to post of few photos of our 67" when she was mounted on the DLP-2 Mounts. ..
We like it for our middle child in a room nobody sat in until we installed it. MR

I recall how hard you worked to get a great deal from CC for this TV. Just wondering how much CC gave you for the trade-in of your middle child? I'm surprised to learn that CC would do that kind of deal; in most cases that would be a quiet deal done only on the net late at night. Anyway...your 67" looks great! :D

missrunt, with the set right up against the wall are you getting enough ventilation? Recomended is what, 4" or so? Were you able to squeeze a fan or something back there?

Looks great irregardless, just hoping it doesn't overheat on you...

Wow how this thread has grown ;))))))))

Anyway, I promised to post of few photos of our 67" when she was mounted on the DLP-2 Mounts. The camera does no justice and the signal is Discovery HD Theater at 1080i.

About 33" from the floor with a slight tilt forward and the floating shelves for the components yet to be installed.

We like it for our middle child in a room nobody sat in until we installed it.

Peace
MR

Wow, that looks fantastic. Thanks for posting!

Just a few pics as promised.

Our 67" mounted on the DLP-2 Mounts. The camera does no justice and the signal is Discovery HD Theater at 1080i moving.

About 33" from the floor with a slight tilt forward and the floating shelves for the components yet to be installed.



We like it for our middle child in a room nobody sat in until we installed it.

The 3 mounts use 4 screws per bracket and must be stud mounted. Even our interior walls are 16" on center 2" x 6", so we used 5" exterior grade deck screws to secure her. I'm sure 3 inch screws are what they are rating the 130 lb. capacity at, but, I overkill everything.

In all honesty you could make these mounts in about an hour, but, at $55 why bother firing up the welder and gathering the material???

Peace
MR



Last i recall the depth of my 61a750 was 14.4 or 15.5 inches i believe.
from the look of your pictures it doesn't appear to be coming that far out from the wall.. is it? or did you recess it into the wall a bit.
also where did you get those mounts?
looks GREAT on the wall!
i JUST built my stand last night and put the tv on it. but i gotta admit , looking at this im jealous.
however the only place in my setup that I could wall mount mine would be over the fireplace mantle(where i had originally intended on putting a sammy LN52a550 flat panel) but aside from being kinda tight on space its far to high up and the viewing angles would be shat i believe.
Very nice

[QUOTE=
Anyway, I promised to post of few photos of our 67" when she was mounted on the DLP-2 Mounts.
MR[/QUOTE]

It looks surprisingly good.
Any pictures with close up from the side and front to get idea on proper fit of bent part of the bracket next to TV.

With ideas like this DLP could get boost in sales:)

Yahoo is your friend :)

DLP-2 Mounts from what i've found, are tubular steel and extend 14-20". Therefore, if they're extended to their fullest, there would be 4-5" of space behind that set.

Haven't found much in pricing though, looks like about $60. But i can't tell if that's for a single bracket or set of 3....

Yahoo is your friend :)

DLP-2 Mounts from what i've found, are tubular steel and extend 14-20". Therefore, if they're extended to their fullest, there would be 4-5" of space behind that set.

Haven't found much in pricing though, looks like about $60. But i can't tell if that's for a single bracket or set of 3....

It IS a set of 3 (http://www.lashen.com/vendors/vmp/VMP_new_products.asp)

All,

Great forum. I suspect I'll be reading and posting a bunch here in the near future when my 61A750 arrives. I'm doing a complete upgrade from my 4 year-old Hitachi 57S500, which was a great RPTV, but now that I'm able to but almost twice the TV for almost half the money, it's time to make the leap.

I actually put the set in my shopping cart at Amazon about three weeks ago when the price was $1,899, white glove delivery included, but wasn't ready to pull the trigger until I could find a stand that would accomodate my center channel (a Klipsch Academy... hard to find, but worth it), which is big, 11" tall x 23" wide. Luckily the stand that I liked the best was also able to hold it: the BDI Meridan. Absolutely beautiful in cherrywood, not cheap, but worth it for the craftsmanship and the features.

Anyway, after I found the stand, I decided to pull the trigger and buy the TV. Imagine my surprise when I returned to my cart at Amazon about a week later and a popup informed me that the price had dropped and they were honoring it. It was now $1,674.99, still with free white glove delivery! That's typically worth at least $299 from other vendors. That convinced me, but when I got back to actually press the button, the sets were backordered through Amazon (however the price stayed the same). That actually was OK, 'cause I still have to sell the Hitachi and the entertainment center surrounding it.

Got notice yesterday that the set will be shipping on Monday, 6/2. Thank goodness the stand got here first so the white glove will work as it's meant to! Interestingly enough, when I return to Amazon, the price is now $1,799 with free delivery... guess it pays to have patience (or luck).

I can't wait to get this puppy hooked up. The Hitachi was the best set in CC when I bought it, but this Sammie will blow it away. I'll keep you all posted.

Wipster

67 just showed up on BB website

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage.jsp?skuId=8793442&type=product&id=1207352527052

$2299

any additional BB deals out there? i dont get the 10% coupon in the mail :(

Ok, so my 67 is on the way and I'm pumped! Can't wait to get in crankin'.

Quick question: What is the status of the 3D in these models? I know it's a "future" feature, but what companies are/will be making peripherals for this, does anyone know?

Thanks!

my local bb wont honor the 12% on 2299 they're saying lowest they'll go is 2199

I got the 67 inch on Friday. All I can say is "Wow"! The picture is bright and the colors vibrant. The geometry is spot on...without the problems that folks have reported in the 61 inch model. The viewing angles are great compared to what I am used to.

The TV it was replacing was a Toshiba 57HDX82. The Toshiba tv's of this vintage had a number of problems (including the "brushed aluminum" effect on bright images).

So please forgive my overall excitement. I am fully aware my love of the new set has a lot to due with the limitations of the tv I am replacing, but still "Wow"!

:D:D:D

i just bought the 67 too. had them open the box at the store to see if there was any bowing and there wasnt from what i could tell.

(i took a piece of string with a ring tied to the end of it)

fits in the pocket nicely to do a quick check.

took a small level with me too - everything lined up perfectly so i bought it. gonna pick it up tomorrow.

is the Samsung TR72BX the stand ppl are matching up with the 67?




i'm gonna need to search this thread to figure it out.

Pardon for a dumb question, but I was looking to get the 67" LED; however, I don't have much space on the sides for the speakers. Is it ok to put UN-shielded speakers right next to the TV or should there be a space? Is this even an issue with anything but a CRT?

TIA

Pardon for a dumb question, but I was looking to get the 67" LED; however, I don't have much space on the sides for the speakers. Is it ok to put UN-shielded speakers right next to the TV or should there be a space? Is this even an issue with anything but a CRT?

TIA

Speaker magnets only effect CRTs as they bend the beam off the path, like the magnets on the neck of a CRT.

Speaker magnets only effect CRTs as they bend the beam off the path, like the magnets on the neck of a CRT.

Ok good...just wanted to double check.

On another note, I am somewhat upset. I am doing some construction work on the room where the tv will go and it seems that I only have 80" between the side of the fireplace and the wall. (Fireplace in front left corner at an angle).

With just 80" of width I have no idea how I can fit the 67" or even 61" for that matter with speakers on the side (9" wide each). Theoretically I can fit it all together very tightly with the 61", but then the fireplace will be cooking the left speaker when it's on. I am thinking about maybe hanging the speakers above the tv, but three of them together will look stupid and sound like crap so close together.

Does anyone have their HT set-ups near the fireplace and how close is too close for either the TV itself or the speaker?

i cant imagine any additional heat would be a good idea especially over time. dryness - cracking. dunno.

i cant imagine any additional heat would be a good idea especially over time. dryness - cracking. dunno.

i don't really plan on using the fireplace every day, just here and there, but i am just not really sure how far to stay away from it and i am certainly not moving the left speaker everytime i want to use the fireplace.

in theory, i can place the speaker on the left of the fireplace, but it might look odd there and worse, it would create a really strange soundspace with the left speaker way left

i would just move the speaker when i use the fireplace. i do that with a leather chair i have. just wire long enough to move it to the left when you use the fireplace.

Just a quick update on pricing that I've noticed. Fry's has the 67A750 on sale for $1999. I had dropped by Circuit City on the way to Fry's to see if I could get them to match the Sears $2249, then give the 10% discount they are offering, while still leaving the 30 months 0% financing in place. They did gladly, bringing the price down to $2025.

Stopped back by Circuit City on the way home from Fry's and they adjusted the price again, this time with the 110% price match guarantee, using their own sale price of $2399 as the high price, bringing the total to $1960.

Also, Fry's had the 61A750 for $1699.

Before I bought the 67 I had stopped in at Video Only, and they didn't carry any of the LED Samsung's. I stopped by again today to check out stands since I haven't found one I like yet, and they now have the 750's in stock. Regular price for the 67 is $1999. I've also been looking at a new receiver, specifically the Onkyo TX-SR606, and they carry it but were out. Cheapest I've seen it has been $499 in store, $450 online, but the Video Only normal price was $429. I asked the sales guy about making a deal for the TV/Receiver, and what they have for 0% financing. With 24 months at 0% the TV would be $1925, and the receiver would be $400. It would be a little less for 12 months, I'm guessing $1850 and $370, but never got an actual breakdown on the prices. Video Only also sells a warranty extension to 4 years total (regardless of manufacturer's warranty, so similar to a Mack 3 year extension in this case). It's GE warranty and is in-home. They don't have a bulb vs. bulbless price, but they were willing to drop from $189 to the Mack price of $130.

I don't know that it's worth it to return the TV to Circuit City to buy the TV from Video Only (since they won't put that price on paper or in an ad...), for just a few dollars difference. But I might have to see if Sears will price match the Fry's price of $1999 and still let me take the 10% employee discount. It would be worth taking the set back if I could get it down to $1800. At that point there would also be the issue of choosing 0% for 18 months, or another 10% rebate, bringing the total to $1620.

I am having a problem with my Harmony 880 and the Screen16:9 command. Even though this shows up on the device and I can assign it to activities, it shows up as blank and non-functional on my remote when it is updated. The web interface setup looks perfect yet if it is item 5 on the screen, item 5 is an empty space. I set the tv to be the HL67A750. Has anyone else had this problem? Should I use the code for the 61 inch?

I just purchased this TV. I do not have any geometry problems but I do have one question. When my wife and I were setting the tv on our stand and we kept hearing something rattle. We got to looking at it and noticed that the actual screen is what is making the noise. The screen is loose in the bezel. I can lightly shake the tv and I can see the screen rattle back and forth. Its almost like the bezel is not tight enough. I tried tightening the screws in the bezel to no avail. I also have a 50 inch hln5065w samsung and the screen in that is solid. I was just wondering if this is normal for this size tv. As I said I do not have any bowing or "smiling" as some people have called it. Everything looks great, but I am a little concerned about the actual build quality. If it is not normal Im going to send it back.
Thanx in advance.

I am having a problem with my Harmony 880 and the Screen16:9 command. Even though this shows up on the device and I can assign it to activities, it shows up as blank and non-functional on my remote when it is updated. The web interface setup looks perfect yet if it is item 5 on the screen, item 5 is an empty space. I set the tv to be the HL67A750. Has anyone else had this problem? Should I use the code for the 61 inch?
You might get a better response by posting this in the appropriate Harmony thread in the AVS remote control forum. There's a lot of Harmony info there.
In the meantime, I suggest using the codes for the 61", which should be the same as the 67. If it still doesn't work, then call Logitech tech support for the 880; they'll figure it out quickly for you.

...When my wife and I were setting the tv on our stand and we kept hearing something rattle. We got to looking at it and noticed that the actual screen is what is making the noise. The screen is loose in the bezel...If it is not normal Im going to send it back.

I believe you should exchange this one right away for a new set. The loose screen condition is not going to improve and may get worse -- who knows?

I receieved my 61" from Big River last week and seem to have an issue with it that my old HLS6187W didnt seem to do.

When watching anything, whether its dirrectv connected via component or HDDVD or Bluray connected via HDMI, when theres a typically black scene, you can notice a rolling bar scan going from the bottom of the screen to the top almost like a CRT that has its refresh rate set incorrectly. Its rather annoying and I'm not sure what exactly is causing it.

Does anyone have this issue? Should I return the TV for another?

Well, you have to realize how many on this thread have complained that the LED models are "not bright enough."

So then you take the thing home and turn it down--plus, many of us like to watch say, football, during the daytime in rooms that can't be darkened effectively. This is where "brighter than an LCD" can be a plus.

Then, at night, you turn the thing down again.

Comprende? :D

Actually, I've read this entire thread, and most OWNERS say it's plenty bright; some saying it's almost TOO bright at night. It's the tire-kickers comparing it to eye-burning LCD's in the store wondering if it's not bright enough.

In all my monitoring of this forum, I've never seen anyone else report a similar problem. I'd exchange it. Actually, first I might try plugging it into a different outlet or something...

I receieved my 61" from Big River last week and seem to have an issue with it that my old HLS6187W didnt seem to do.

When watching anything, whether its dirrectv connected via component or HDDVD or Bluray connected via HDMI, when theres a typically black scene, you can notice a rolling bar scan going from the bottom of the screen to the top almost like a CRT that has its refresh rate set incorrectly. Its rather annoying and I'm not sure what exactly is causing it.

Does anyone have this issue? Should I return the TV for another?

i had the exact same problem when i hooked up my 67 and came to realize it was my amplifier/reciever injecting that into the path. when i plugged my dvd player direct into the tv - the issue went away so i figure its probably my legacy reciever/amp.

In all my monitoring of this forum, I've never seen anyone else report a similar problem. I'd exchange it. Actually, first I might try plugging it into a different outlet or something...

Well I called big river this morning and they are sending out a new set to me.

I talked to some people here locally and they stated that it could possibly be caused by a closed ground loop problem. They suggested that I unplug one device at a time from the surge protector until the noise goes away. If it doesnt, they maybe its a problem with the set itself or the power in my house.

but considering that my hls6187w never had this issue and I used the same power cord suggests that this TV may be faulty or just more touchy to crappy city power.

i had the exact same problem when i hooked up my 67 and came to realize it was my amplifier/reciever injecting that into the path. when i plugged my dvd player direct into the tv - the issue went away so i figure its probably my legacy reciever/amp.

Thats what I was thinking too. Im going to try and move the receiver off the power strip and see what happens

This reminds me of when you have a fan plugged into the same outlet or surge protector and have a computer monitor in the same source. You will notice the screen jittering a little maybe wrong term but you get the idea. Problem went away when the fan was turned off :)

Thats what I was thinking too. Im going to try and move the receiver off the power strip and see what happens

Also consider RF interference if that doesn't work. If you have an RF line coming into the monitor, remove it and see if that changes anything.

Also consider RF interference if that doesn't work. If you have an RF line coming into the monitor, remove it and see if that changes anything.

no RF coming into the monitor.Just 1 component and 2 HDMI signals. Thats about it

missrunt, with the set right up against the wall are you getting enough ventilation? Recomended is what, 4" or so? Were you able to squeeze a fan or something back there?

Looks great irregardless, just hoping it doesn't overheat on you...

Sgooter & STR3T...

Thanks for the kind words. CC was having a slow TV day and ready to make a sale. I think the fact the TV was there and they didn't have it on display yet played a big role.

As far as the ventilation goes. The set is backed up against the wall. The back vents are actually below the thickest part of the set, and around 4 inches away from the wall already just by design. The bottom has no shelf to sit on, so the ventilation from underneath has much more flow this way.

I'll post some other angles in a bit to show what I'm talking about.

Peace
MR

Can anyone suggest a decent stand for the HL67A750? I actually bought the Samsung TR72 stand from OC but the quality of this stand is absolutely horrible. The fit is very poor and stand wobbles severely (it is put together correctly).

I called OC to complain and all the representative could do was say that they didn't design the stand can't be held responsible for its quality. I was told to take it up with Samsung. :confused: It makes me very glad that I didn't buy my TV from them.

But now I have a TV scheduled for delivery on Thursday and no stand. If I have to I can use a coffee table temporarily that will easily support the set, but if someone can suggest a good quality stand that I can buy locally at a BB, CC, or Tweeter for less than $300 then I would be willing to go check it out now. But no more ordering from internet dealers who aren't interested in customer service for stuff like this.

--Jerome

I haven't got it yet, but I'm looking at a stand from Costco: http://www.costco.com/Browse/ProductSet.aspx?Prodid=11228012&whse=BC&Ne=4000000&eCat=BC|79|47164|47167&N=4013842&Mo=12&pos=0&No=8&Nr=P_CatalogName:BC&cat=47167&Ns=P_Price|1||P_SignDesc1&lang=en-US&Sp=C&ec=BC-EC10609-Cat47164&topnav=

They have only had it in clear for a while, but I really like the looks of the black one, and now that they have it in I'm going to give it a try. And since it's Costco, if I don't like it I can take it back easily. Don't know if that helps you or not. I know it also doesn't help since it can only be ordered online, but at least there's a place to take it back to if there is something wrong or it just doesn't work. It can also be ordered other places for $30-$50 more.

Well, I actually solved the problem on my own. The issue was that the locking cams that came with the stand were paper-thin aluminum and were not strong enough to do the job. So I thought to myself that maybe I can put some epoxy resin in there and it could harden and provide some additional stiffness and support. I went to the hardware store and found some locking cams but they were much better made and a lot stronger than the ones that came with the stand. So I bought a package of those and lo and behold they did the trick. Now the supporting structure and brace is very tight and it doesn't' wobble at all.

Also, I got a call back from OC from someone in customer serivce who apologized and then we had a nice conversation. So I feel much better about the purchase and about OC.

--Jerome

Wow how this thread has grown ;))))))))

Anyway, I promised to post of few photos of our 67" when she was mounted on the DLP-2 Mounts. The camera does no justice and the signal is Discovery HD Theater at 1080i.

About 33" from the floor with a slight tilt forward and the floating shelves for the components yet to be installed.

http://americasarcade.com/hl67a750_mounted_01.jpg




We like it for our middle child in a room nobody sat in until we installed it.

Peace
MR
Thanks for the pics. In the top picture is it an optical illusion or is the picture look tilted?
If you look at the text box it appears to be angling downward from left to right. The bezel edge of the TV is angling upwards from left to right.
Maybe its the picture but shouldnt they both be angling in the same direction?

Well, I actually solved the problem on my own. The issue was that the locking cams that came with the stand were paper-thin aluminum and were not strong enough to do the job. So I thought to myself that maybe I can put some epoxy resin in there and it could harden and provide some additional stiffness and support. I went to the hardware store and found some locking cams but they were much better made and a lot stronger than the ones that came with the stand. So I bought a package of those and lo and behold they did the trick. Now the supporting structure and brace is very tight and it doesn't' wobble at all.

Also, I got a call back from OC from someone in customer serivce who apologized and then we had a nice conversation. So I feel much better about the purchase and about OC.

--Jerome

Glad you got that straightened out...

Who is OC?

Thanks for the pics. In the top picture is it an optical illusion or is the picture look tilted?
If you look at the text box it appears to be angling downward from left to right. The bezel edge of the TV is angling upwards from left to right.
Maybe its the picture but shouldnt they both be angling in the same direction?

Hipnotiq...

I'm pretty sure you are seeing an illusion. I've measured this thing in LB and 4:3 with a MM rule, and can find no issues with it.

Peace
MR

Thanks for the pics. In the top picture is it an optical illusion or is the picture look tilted?
MR,
Our nationwide canine team agrees anonymously that your 67 is spot on perfect. However, in the future, please be extra careful that your photos don't make "the picture look tilted." It's very disorienting and can induce acute vertigo in some of our valued close-in parking customers.
Thanks so much,
CC Firedog Kennel Management (of senior citizen customers):D

The only thing keeping this television (HL61a750) off my short list is the size. It's freaking monsterously large, but unfortunately it's the only television which satisfies all of my requirements- height excluded. Fantastic price, fantastic picture, excellent potential reliability...

I can't believe I'm complaining about my best option being too big.

Sorry if this has already been answered.. but what are the dimensions of the base of the 67"?

I see Firmware v. 1005.3 is out in the Samsung download center.

I'm not sure if this has been discussed... but does anyone know what's new with this version?

Can anyone suggest a decent stand for the HL67A750? I actually bought the Samsung TR72 stand from OC but the quality of this stand is absolutely horrible. The fit is very poor and stand wobbles severely (it is put together correctly).


--Jerome

My stand came from http://www.homedecorators.com/Furniture/Home_Theater/Tv_Stands/ They have a huge selection.

I can't believe I'm complaining about my best option being too big.

ban this person!!! ;) There is no such thing as "too big". :cool:

Can anyone comment on the presence of overscan on the HL67A750? Thanks in advance!

From here: http://www.electronichouse.com/article/phlatlight_a_new_source_of_illumination

"..Currently, Samsung is the only television manufacturer to offer a line of PhlatLight-enabled DLP HDTVs. The Samsung HL-T61A750 (61-in.) or 67A750 (67-in.), for example, is illuminated using a single PhlatLight PT120 chipset, which was specifically designed and optimized for use with the Texas Instruments xHD5 1080p DLP chipset. The PhlatLight PT120 is a three-color system that includes a red, green and blue LED. Each LED is a single, large area monolithic chip that can sustain extremely high power and fast pulsing. The PT120’s red, green and blue LEDs combine to produce pure, accurate sequential colored light and cycle at 2.9 KHz, 48 times faster than traditional television frame rates, creating a smooth, stable color and superior motion quality. The red, green and blue LEDs in the PT120 chipset combine to produce more than 3,000 white lumens under normal operating conditions (2,000 white lumens under pulsed operation), which is enough brightness to illuminate rear projection TVs up to 67 inches with a single RGB chipset. This new Samsung model also offers a contrast ratio of 10,000:1..."

Is the XHD 5 the same chip as the Dark Chip, or does it have a different function? Anyone know?

Also note contrast ratio claimed.

I receieved my 61" from Big River last week and seem to have an issue with it that my old HLS6187W didnt seem to do.

When watching anything, whether its dirrectv connected via component or HDDVD or Bluray connected via HDMI, when theres a typically black scene, you can notice a rolling bar scan going from the bottom of the screen to the top almost like a CRT that has its refresh rate set incorrectly. Its rather annoying and I'm not sure what exactly is causing it.

Does anyone have this issue? Should I return the TV for another?

The rolling bar is typically the result of grounding issues. I have DirecTV and Comcast (locals only, beacuse the internet service is cheaper that way). If I attach the comcast RF feed dircectly, I get a really dim greenish bar behavior from my Mits 55" CRT set.

Sgooter & STR3T...

Thanks for the kind words. CC was having a slow TV day and ready to make a sale. I think the fact the TV was there and they didn't have it on display yet played a big role.

As far as the ventilation goes. The set is backed up against the wall. The back vents are actually below the thickest part of the set, and around 4 inches away from the wall already just by design. The bottom has no shelf to sit on, so the ventilation from underneath has much more flow this way.

I'll post some other angles in a bit to show what I'm talking about.

Peace
MR

MR,

How did you get the TV to tilt forward? Is there something connected to the top of the tv or is it bottom-heavy enough that you were able to tilt the mounting brackets without worrying about the set tipping over?

Looks fantastic. I've already returned my TR-500X3BX stand after seeing your pictures the other day (the pictures of your set up, which my wife loves, and the dubious build quality of that stand combined to make my decision).

I'm receiving my 61" on Thursday and would love to be able to mount it in a similar fashion to yours.

From here: http://www.electronichouse.com/article/phlatlight_a_new_source_of_illumination

"..Currently, Samsung is the only television manufacturer to offer a line of PhlatLight-enabled DLP HDTVs. The Samsung HL-T61A750 (61-in.) or 67A750 (67-in.), for example, is illuminated using a single PhlatLight PT120 chipset, which was specifically designed and optimized for use with the Texas Instruments xHD5 1080p DLP chipset. The PhlatLight PT120 is a three-color system that includes a red, green and blue LED. Each LED is a single, large area monolithic chip that can sustain extremely high power and fast pulsing. The PT120’s red, green and blue LEDs combine to produce pure, accurate sequential colored light and cycle at 2.9 KHz, 48 times faster than traditional television frame rates, creating a smooth, stable color and superior motion quality. The red, green and blue LEDs in the PT120 chipset combine to produce more than 3,000 white lumens under normal operating conditions (2,000 white lumens under pulsed operation), which is enough brightness to illuminate rear projection TVs up to 67 inches with a single RGB chipset. This new Samsung model also offers a contrast ratio of 10,000:1..."

Is the XHD 5 the same chip as the Dark Chip, or does it have a different function? Anyone know?

Also note contrast ratio claimed.

Speculation:
You know....something just hit me. Maybe they don't use the DarkChip series in these LED based TVs at all. Perhaps the xHD5 is based on a DarkChip 3, but has to be modified to sync to the PhlatLight color switching. I wouldn't be surprised if the DarkChip 4 is different enough that they have to make major modifications to the xHD5 to accomodate the LED synchronization. Additionally, the first ones to get it would likely be traditional wheel-based TVs and projectors.

Wait, what do they call the DMD in the A650 series?

Big River now lists the HL72A650 at $2575.86 with free shipping and no tax. Good deal. I'm about to jump on it, but I'm still not sure if I'd rather have this or the Mits (if that price comes down) and wether there is any truth at all to this A850 discussion.

Anyone have thoughts or opinions to share on any fo this?

Thanks.

Wait, what do they call the DMD in the A650 series?xHD5 (stated in service manual)

MR,

How did you get the TV to tilt forward? Is there something connected to the top of the tv or is it bottom-heavy enough that you were able to tilt the mounting brackets without worrying about the set tipping over?

Looks fantastic. I've already returned my TR-500X3BX stand after seeing your pictures the other day (the pictures of your set up, which my wife loves, and the dubious build quality of that stand combined to make my decision).

I'm receiving my 61" on Thursday and would love to be able to mount it in a similar fashion to yours.

CCathers....

I just put a very small shim under the set where it touches the back of each mount. The total tilt is only about 1/2" forward, just enough to get the sweet spot right for watching from our couch. There isn't any need for straps or bracing and the TV is still sturdy as a rock in the mounts.

If you were to mount it much higher, you may need to tilt it a little more and then decide if it needs another mount up top, or some form of retention strap on the back.

Like you said, this TV is very back/bottom heavy and didn't need anything to make me feel safe about the angle we tilted it ;)

Peace
MR

xHD5 (stated in service manual)

Yeah, I kinda figured that's what it would turn out to be. Oh well.

Cool, added to the FAQ! xHD5 is Darkchip 3, same as used in last years models. :mad:

From here: http://www.electronichouse.com/article/phlatlight_a_new_source_of_illumination

"..Currently, Samsung is the only television manufacturer to offer a line of PhlatLight-enabled DLP HDTVs. The Samsung HL-T61A750 (61-in.) or 67A750 (67-in.), for example, is illuminated using a single PhlatLight PT120 chipset, which was specifically designed and optimized for use with the Texas Instruments xHD5 1080p DLP chipset. The PhlatLight PT120 is a three-color system that includes a red, green and blue LED. Each LED is a single, large area monolithic chip that can sustain extremely high power and fast pulsing. The PT120’s red, green and blue LEDs combine to produce pure, accurate sequential colored light and cycle at 2.9 KHz, 48 times faster than traditional television frame rates, creating a smooth, stable color and superior motion quality. The red, green and blue LEDs in the PT120 chipset combine to produce more than 3,000 white lumens under normal operating conditions (2,000 white lumens under pulsed operation), which is enough brightness to illuminate rear projection TVs up to 67 inches with a single RGB chipset. This new Samsung model also offers a contrast ratio of 10,000:1..."

Is the XHD 5 the same chip as the Dark Chip, or does it have a different function? Anyone know?

Also note contrast ratio claimed.

CCathers....

I just put a very small shim under the set where it touches the back of each mount. The total tilt is only about 1/2" forward, just enough to get the sweet spot right for watching from our couch. There isn't any need for straps or bracing and the TV is still sturdy as a rock in the mounts.

If you were to mount it much higher, you may need to tilt it a little more and then decide if it needs another mount up top, or some form of retention strap on the back.

Like you said, this TV is very back/bottom heavy and didn't need anything to make me feel safe about the angle we tilted it ;)

Peace
MR

Also, it'd be great to see pics once you have your components set up on the shelf you'd planned to mount, as well.

One thing I also wonder about is cable management.. how do you plan to keep all of your component cables nice and neat?

The rolling bar is typically the result of grounding issues. I have DirecTV and Comcast (locals only, beacuse the internet service is cheaper that way). If I attach the comcast RF feed dircectly, I get a really dim greenish bar behavior from my Mits 55" CRT set.



Any ideas on how to fix my issue?

Hipnotiq...

I'm pretty sure you are seeing an illusion. I've measured this thing in LB and 4:3 with a MM rule, and can find no issues with it.

Peace
MR
would you mind putting up a geometry test pattern? I would be interested to see how it looks.

Man, if I had a dollar for every time i have read the term " Big River" on this forum, i could have completely funded my 61a750 purchase with those dollars alone. LOL:D
but after extensive search i CAN NOT find any BIG RIVER store online that sells TV let alone electronics.
I have also read the BIG River is Amazon... :confused: can someone shed some light on this PLEASE!
PM me if you must.
THANKS IN ADVANCE!

Man, if I had a dollar for every time i have read the term " Big River" on this forum, i could have completely funded my 61a750 purchase with those dollars alone. LOL:D
but after extensive search i CAN NOT find any BIG RIVER store online that sells TV let alone electronics.
I have also read the BIG River is Amazon... :confused: can someone shed some light on this PLEASE!
PM me if you must.
THANKS IN ADVANCE!
Apparently it's "cool" to write Big River instead of Amazon :rolleyes:.

Apparently it's "cool" to write Big River instead of Amazon :rolleyes:.


Yeah, i was puzzled by it at first too.

Kinda retarded if you ask me.


AMAZON!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!