Also, it'd be great to see pics once you have your components set up on the shelf you'd planned to mount, as well.

One thing I also wonder about is cable management.. how do you plan to keep all of your component cables nice and neat?

Vinnie...

I'm starting the shelf today and should have pictures in a few days. I'm going to make the shelf directly under the mounts and the same width as the foot to incorporate the components and cables. I plan on routing the cables through a grommet hole on the top right hand side. The shelf I'm building will be floating, but with a top, back, sides, and surge protection installed.

Hard to explain, but, when I post the pictures I will write the details after I'm pleased with the result.

Peace
MR

Vinnie...

I'm starting the shelf today and should have pictures in a few days. I'm going to make the shelf directly under the mounts and the same width as the foot to incorporate the components and cables. I plan on routing the cables through a grommet hole on the top right hand side. The shelf I'm building will be floating, but with a top, back, sides, and surge protection installed.

Hard to explain, but, when I post the pictures I will write the details after I'm pleased with the result.

Peace
MR

Excellent.. looking forward to seeing it. :)

Setting an input into Game Mode works great to reduce screen lag due to image processing. However, the settings are locked and you can't make any adjustments. (Unless I'm missing someting.)

I've tried deselecting Game Mode and turning off anything I could find but screen lag is still noticable.

Anyone else experiencing this?

Yeah, i was puzzled by it at first too.

Kinda retarded if you ask me.


AMAZON!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Oh thank the lord someone figured this out. I googled away for 1/2 an hour and had no clue what Big River was...

Anyways, I bought this TV over the weekend from CC and hooked up my old LG LDA511 via component w/ Macrovision and HDCP turned off. Should I use 720p Upconversion or 1080i?

Also, I'm noticing what would seem to be some macroblocking w/ this dvd player. I know DLP's are sensitive to this issue, has anyone else experienced this?

Yeah, i was puzzled by it at first too.

Kinda retarded if you ask me.


AMAZON!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I think they use it to get around the "no price talk" rule, but nobody really treats it as taboo any more. Just call the store by its name.

Setting an input into Game Mode works great to reduce screen lag due to image processing. However, the settings are locked and you can't make any adjustments. (Unless I'm missing someting.)

I've tried deselecting Game Mode and turning off anything I could find but screen lag is still noticable.

Anyone else experiencing this?

I've never seen this, and I thought Samsung fixed this a couple generations ago. What input and console are you using? Are you going through a receiver?

Wow. Never realized the Amazon thing created so much angst. When I first started reading forums on here, I only ever saw it referred as such, so I started to call it that. It kind of stuck in my mind. But since some of you may be struggling with it, here you go:

AMAZON has the HL72A650 for 2575 w/free ship. Anyone seen the set for less or care to speculate on the price 1 month from now?

I thought Big River was a Johnny Cash song. Also covered quite well by the Grateful Dead.

OK, since someone has spilled the beans about Big River, now everyone knows where to find the really good deals. So...now this news is all hush, hush: In reaction to this predicament, the web board had just announced that it will now officially call this shopping site "the BAR" (as in the Big Amazon River), which should keep the shroud of secrecy over this site for at least another month.
Again, it's "the BAR." But for cryin' out loud don't tell anyone about this.

OK, since someone has spilled the beans about Big River, now everyone knows where to find the really good deals. So...now this news is all hush, hush: In reaction to this predicament, the web board had just announced that it will now officially call this shopping site "the BAR" (as in the Big Amazon River), which should keep the shroud of secrecy over this site for at least another month.
Again, it's "the BAR." But for cryin' out loud don't tell anyone about this.
:D

I think they use it to get around the "no price talk" rule, but nobody really treats it as taboo any more. Just call the store by its name.
If the no price talk rule were being enforced in this forum, this thread would have a lot more to worry about than the store being refered to by its proper name. People seem to have no fear of calling Circuit City and Best Buy by their proper names...

Hey all!

Quick question:
I have the 56" 650, and the xbox360 is hooked up via VGA for some upconvert goodness. However,at 1920x1080, the picture doesn't fill up all of the screen. There is a black border around everything.

Is this normal via VGA?

Ahh, nevermind...
PROTIP: Check to make sure it's set for Wide TV, not Wide PC :D

Cool, added to the FAQ! xHD5 is Darkchip 3, same as used in last years models. :mad:

Oh, well...

10K is still pretty good contrast.

And most owners have not complained about it or general PQ.

I've never seen this, and I thought Samsung fixed this a couple generations ago. What input and console are you using? Are you going through a receiver?

It's the Wii over component. There's no reciever involved. Setting it in Game Mode resolves most of the lag but I'd like to set the LED control to medium. Guitar Hero lets you calibrate the delay and then it works fine but not all games have that option.

Ok I've been reading along this thread but I have a few questions I can't recall if they have previously been discussed.
1. I accidentally pushed the "Calibration" button in the service menu. The one right above the Test Patterns. The picture began to fade to black and repeated.
Now the colors look off. Like Yellow doesn't look yellow anymore, ditto for other colors.
Can this be reset or is the TV toast?
2. What is the Overlap 15% stand for? Is that aka overscan.
3. What things can be tweaked without mucking up the TV.
4. What settings can help improve overscan or other geometry issues. for example the grid pattern shows that some of the picture is cut off.

Thanks guys!

If the no price talk rule were being enforced in this forum, this thread would have a lot more to worry about than the store being refered to by its proper name. People seem to have no fear of calling Circuit City and Best Buy by their proper names...

Indeed. Seems irrelevant at this point. I think if anybody did the same amount of research as I did, they were constantly checking Amazon, Best Buy, and Circuit City (and Crutchfield?) until the right price came along....and then price matched it 3 weeks later, heh.

Ok I've been reading along this thread but I have a few questions I can't recall if they have previously been discussed.
1. I accidentally pushed the "Calibration" button in the service menu. The one right above the Test Patterns. The picture began to fade to black and repeated.
Now the colors look off. Like Yellow doesn't look yellow anymore, ditto for other colors.
Can this be reset or is the TV toast?
2. What is the Overlap 15% stand for? Is that aka overscan.
3. What things can be tweaked without mucking up the TV.
4. What settings can help improve overscan or other geometry issues. for example the grid pattern shows that some of the picture is cut off.

Thanks guys!

1. Not toast, you can correct it:

Anyone who makes the mistake of selecting calibration in the service menu without the proper pattern on the screen will destroy picture colors (I did). To recover you need to display a 8X8 black and white checkerboard pattern and select calibrate again (picture may be better than it was before).

I found the pattern in Calman Pattern Generator (Brightness/Contrast Tab).

There is also a site describing further calibration in previous Samsung DLPs @
http://www.sencore.com/newsletter/July06/SamsungDLP_RPTVwhtbal.htm

I know someone posted titl settings in the service menu...I'll see if I can dig it up.

It's the Wii over component. There's no reciever involved. Setting it in Game Mode resolves most of the lag but I'd like to set the LED control to medium. Guitar Hero lets you calibrate the delay and then it works fine but not all games have that option.

Hmm, I don't have Guitar Hero on Wii, and I don't play a bunch of Wii games, but I haven't seen that on my Wii over component connection. And this is the first time in this whole thread I've seen it mentioned. Not that it proves anything, but that is a little unusual. I don't think I would have missed it.

I'll try to watch a little closer.

would you mind putting up a geometry test pattern? I would be interested to see how it looks.

Hipnotiq...

Sorry for the delay...way busy today.

Sure....

mike_pro's http://psleng.dyndns.org/files/tv_test/grid.jpg - test grid @ 2048x1536

I'll host them at our full camera resolution (2048x1536) on one of our websites.

http://www.americasarcade.com/grid_01.jpg
http://www.americasarcade.com/grid_02.jpg

Lemme know if you need anything else, just trying to help the community out. We give this set a "Strong Buy".

For those wondering about the blue tint up top, the photos were taken just below the sweet spot and this is nothing to be concerned about.

Peace
MR

PS: Watch out for those optical illusions ;)

Hipnotiq...

Sorry for the delay...way busy today.

Sure....

mike_pro's http://psleng.dyndns.org/files/tv_test/grid.jpg - test grid @ 2048x1536

I'll host them at our full camera resolution (2048x1536) on one of our websites.

http://www.americasarcade.com/grid_01.jpg
http://www.americasarcade.com/grid_02.jpg

Lemme know if you need anything else, just trying to help the community out. We give this set a "Strong Buy".

For those wondering about the blue tint up top, the photos were taken just below the sweet spot and this is nothing to be concerned about.

Peace
MR

PS: Watch out for those optical illusions ;)

damn dood i would have to say ur geometry is effin PERFECT!! It seriously cannot get any better flawless! Ok im done suckin off ur set....

damn dood i would have to say ur geometry is effin PERFECT!! It seriously cannot get any better flawless! Ok im done suckin off ur set....

Wopino ;)

For $2K this set is worth the money. Less than a year from now it should be a standard $1699 set and failing all the test to come.

DLP is the disposable tech while leading the field. We have flat panel LCD, plasma, and double stacked LCD Barco projection. Just buy a TV people...you will never be ahead of the curve.

Enjoy your TV's, nobody will be able to tell the difference if you have one of these beasts in the house.

I do have a soft spot for the Wal-Mart brand 19" we bought 11 years ago!!!

Understand????

Peace
MR

Hipnotiq...

Sorry for the delay...way busy today.

Sure....

mike_pro's http://psleng.dyndns.org/files/tv_test/grid.jpg - test grid @ 2048x1536

I'll host them at our full camera resolution (2048x1536) on one of our websites.

http://www.americasarcade.com/grid_01.jpg
http://www.americasarcade.com/grid_02.jpg

Lemme know if you need anything else, just trying to help the community out. We give this set a "Strong Buy".

For those wondering about the blue tint up top, the photos were taken just below the sweet spot and this is nothing to be concerned about.

Peace
MR

PS: Watch out for those optical illusions ;)

Thank you for the test pattern. I just received the 67a750 to replace my 61a750, which had 1/2" vertical bowing/pin-cushining. At first glance, the 67" appeared to be a night and day difference to the 61", with no evident vertical bowing.

However, after a day of viewing I started to realize that the bottom horizontal alignment appeared to be higher on the right, than on the left. After measuring, sure enough it is 1/4" higher on the right lower side than the left lower side. I then did the frame twist maneuver and was able to rotate the image ever so slightly to even up both bottom sides. However, now the top horizontal alignment was higher on the left top than on the top right. There is no in between "sweet spot". Either I have it straight across the top or straight across the bottom, but not together.

Additionally, I take it that the test grid is supposed to be a pure white in color across the entire screen. The middle and lower right half is white, but as you go towards the left side, you can see thick red on one side and blue on the other side of the white line, thicker as you get closer to the edge of the screen. The top half also has this red and blue overlap.

I take it this is the "convergence". Is there a simple way of fixing the misconvergence issue when it is only evident approaching the the edges of the screen. Is this considered a replaceable defect? This TV was bought at BB and they said in no-uncertain terms, that they would replace it as many times as it took to get one that looked right and that I was happy with. Is this normal, adjustable or should it be swapped? I don't want to live with "almost good"!

Thanks for the input!!

Thank you for the test pattern. I just received the 67a750 to replace my 61a750, which had 1/2" vertical bowing/pin-cushining. At first glance, the 67" appeared to be a night and day difference to the 61", with no evident vertical bowing.

However, after a day of viewing I started to realize that the bottom horizontal alignment appeared to be higher on the right, than on the left. After measuring, sure enough it is 1/4" higher on the right lower side than the left lower side. I then did the frame twist maneuver and was able to rotate the image ever so slightly to even up both bottom sides. However, now the top horizontal alignment was higher on the left top than on the top right. There is no in between "sweet spot". Either I have it straight across the top or straight across the bottom, but not together.

Additionally, I take it that the test grid is supposed to be a pure white in color across the entire screen. The middle and lower right half is white, but as you go towards the left side, you can see thick red on one side and blue on the other side of the white line, thicker as you get closer to the edge of the screen. The top half also has this red and blue overlap.

I take it this is the "convergence". Is there a simple way of fixing the misconvergence issue when it is only evident approaching the the edges of the screen. Is this considered a replaceable defect? This TV was bought at BB and they said in no-uncertain terms, that they would replace it as many times as it took to get one that looked right and that I was happy with. Is this normal, adjustable or should it be swapped? I don't want to live with "almost good"!

Thanks for the input!!

I myself at this stage would not settle for close...perfect would be my choice.

The fact that you can tweak the frame and show improvement gives all the answers away. Make them (BB) make you happy! That's what they said they would do...correct??? Make them stand behind it....most retailers are only making $200 on this set anyway!

All retailers will deal with you!!! If they don't, pass them by.

Peace
MR

For #1, you will probably also have to turn CCA back on in the serivce menu.

Don't know if there is anything else in the service menu to help reduce overscan. Are you using the Just Scan picture setting? This seems to have the lowest overscan for me (although not much different from 16:9). My overscan is about 2%. Not a problem, except if I have a PC connected, but then I can easily adjust the resolution of the PC to eliminate overscan and still get 1:1 pixel mapping.

Ok I've been reading along this thread but I have a few questions I can't recall if they have previously been discussed.
1. I accidentally pushed the "Calibration" button in the service menu. The one right above the Test Patterns. The picture began to fade to black and repeated.
Now the colors look off. Like Yellow doesn't look yellow anymore, ditto for other colors.
Can this be reset or is the TV toast?
2. What is the Overlap 15% stand for? Is that aka overscan.
3. What things can be tweaked without mucking up the TV.
4. What settings can help improve overscan or other geometry issues. for example the grid pattern shows that some of the picture is cut off.

Thanks guys!

Additionally, I take it that the test grid is supposed to be a pure white in color across the entire screen. The middle and lower right half is white, but as you go towards the left side, you can see thick red on one side and blue on the other side of the white line, thicker as you get closer to the edge of the screen. The top half also has this red and blue overlap.
My original 61" showed some red and green fringing on the test grid at the edges of the picture. I guess you would call this convergence, or maybe it is a focus adjustment or something. My new set, if you get right up to it, you can see some very, very slight fringing. This slight bit may just be a side effect of the screen.

Anyways, you could try contacting Samsung and see if a tech can do any sort of adjustments. Or, maybe the simplest thing would be to put that image on a thumb drive, go up to best but, and check out a replacement set. If it doesn't look good, don't take that set. Repeat until you get one you like.

The other thing to ask yourself, is does this actually affect your viewing form the distance you are at? Can you really notice any ill effects from this with a real picture image from the couch? Try it and see.

" Originally Posted by rahull View Post
Anyone who makes the mistake of selecting calibration in the service menu without the proper pattern on the screen will destroy picture colors (I did). To recover you need to display a 8X8 black and white checkerboard pattern and select calibrate again (picture may be better than it was before).

I found the pattern in Calman Pattern Generator (Brightness/Contrast Tab)."

Should I be able to use the internal test pattern in the service menu or do I need to provide an exterior source?
How do I keep a test pattern up and tweak settings, or specifically the 8X8 pattern and for how long?
Thanks again.

Wopino ;)

For $2K this set is worth the money. Less than a year from now it should be a standard $1699 set and failing all the test to come.

DLP is the disposable tech while leading the field. We have flat panel LCD, plasma, and double stacked LCD Barco projection. Just buy a TV people...you will never be ahead of the curve.

Enjoy your TV's, nobody will be able to tell the difference if you have one of these beasts in the house.

I do have a soft spot for the Wal-Mart brand 19" we bought 11 years ago!!!

Understand????

Peace
MR

oh for sure!! I am enjoying my HL61A750 with nearly perfect geometry as well!!!!

" Originally Posted by rahull View Post
Anyone who makes the mistake of selecting calibration in the service menu without the proper pattern on the screen will destroy picture colors (I did). To recover you need to display a 8X8 black and white checkerboard pattern and select calibrate again (picture may be better than it was before).

I found the pattern in Calman Pattern Generator (Brightness/Contrast Tab)."

Should I be able to use the internal test pattern in the service menu or do I need to provide an exterior source?
How do I keep a test pattern up and tweak settings, or specifically the 8X8 pattern and for how long?
Thanks again.

I used a computer to generate the pattern and hooked to PC input. Once you have it on the screen enter the service menu and recalibrate. The TV calibration software takes care of the rest. As was mentioned previously you should check CCA to see if it is turned on.

All measurements must be made in the USER mode then go to SERVICE MENU, make change go back to USER change non default option values and remeasure.

Currently, I own a HL61A750 61 inch. Last night flashing dots appeared all over my screen. They appear as white, blue, green or black depending on the background color. They seem to group in some areas, or randomly pop up in other areas. The set is only a few months old. I've made an appoinment with a samsung tech, they will arrive tomorrow.

This is set actually my second replacement. The first set had a purple/blue halo effect and serous bowing and geometry issues.

Questions:

1. What is this issue called? I've run searches on Sparkle, sparklies, flashing dots, but what is the technical term?
2. Has anyone else seen this with their HL61A750 61"?
3. Does this issue come from the lamp, screen, etc?

I've tried multiple HDMI cables all with the same results.

I see this effect in Live TV and recorded TV from my HTPC, DVD playback, both HD and Blu-ray and my PS3.

When I power on the set the picture looks fine from all sources, after about 20 minutes the flashing "sparkles" start to appear and get progressively worse.

Typically I find all my answers to my home theater issues on in these forums, but I don't know which search terms I should use.

I've seen posts related to HDMI cables, bad circuit boards, etc. with no resolution other than returning the TV and nothing specific to the HL61A750.

Can someone point me in the right direction?

I also am guilty of posting in both threads. Not to be rude, but to get input regarding the issues at hand given the fact that some may visit this thread and not the other, and vice versa.
I think Mike Pro had made the Owners thread because the discussion was growing far to large. I was under the impression that this thread would be closed, and linked to in the owners thread as a resource.
At any rate, I have edited this down, and I am including a Link to the FULL version in the Owners Thread. CLICK HERE (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=14013015#post14013015)
Sorry If i annoyed anyone.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------

Between of the Frame/Geometry issues and because of the awesome PQ,
I am really torn as to whether I should
A) Keep it and calibrate properly, then deal with the flimsiness & geometry,
B) Return it for an identical model,(more or the same?)
C) Return if for a different set all together, or
D) Have it serviced ALREADY.

I would be 110% satisfied if the frame was stiffer and there were no geometry issues. The rest can be worked out with proper calibration i believe.

SUGGESTIONS?:rolleyes:

Get the 67" set. It supposedly has a stiffer frame!

Get the 67" set. It supposedly has a stiffer frame!

That's probably no less of a shot in the dark than just getting another 61". We've already had verification that the 67" has potential geometry issues--which is exactly what I predicted. Its NOT just the frame.

And it also looks like the 67" is at the limit of what the PhlatLight can do, so there is a trade-off there, maybe especially in a bright environment.

That being said I would have started with a 67" if the price was as low as it is now compared to what I paid for the 61" originally and if it had been available. . .

That's probably no less of a shot in the dark than just getting another 61". We've already had verification that the 67" has potential geometry issues--which is exactly what I predicted. Its NOT just the frame.

And it also looks like the 67" is at the limit of what the PhlatLight can do, so there is a trade-off there, maybe especially in a bright environment.

That being said I would have started with a 67" if the price was as low as it is now compared to what I paid for the 61" originally and if it had been available. . .

i actually started with looking into the 56a650(1349), then to the 61a650(1599), then discovered LED and went to the 61a750 which i paid 1709 for @ BB. Now its listed as 2099! and the 67 2399 i think.

Well.. I finally saw some issues with my 67'. I say 'finally' even though I've only had it for 3 days.. lol

Had it on baseball and the ticker at the top was noticably slanted... it was off by less than a 1/4 inch and I found that pusing either corner of the tv back would move either side.. my solution : I pushed both corners back and let them come back as naturally as possible..now it looks fine.. I'm not going to measure it again unless its noticible.

I don't think I could bear going through the return process (and I'd have to do it through samsung I'm sure as they place I got it was small and likely wouldn't switch it for this).. in any case... it looks fine now.. I hope it stays that way.. and PQ it still fantastic and overall I'm happy... to be honest I dont' know if I would have noticed the 'tilt' had I not read that it might exist..

Does anyone have a stand recommendation for the 67"?

Well.. I finally saw some issues with my 67'. I say 'finally' even though I've only had it for 3 days.. lol

Had it on baseball and the ticker at the top was noticably slanted... it was off by less than a 1/4 inch and I found that pusing either corner of the tv back would move either side.. my solution : I pushed both corners back and let them come back as naturally as possible..now it looks fine.. I'm not going to measure it again unless its noticible.
.

thats exactly what I had done, but the best result was within 1/8th of an inch. and my picky eye still finds it annoying when noticeable.

Well.. I finally saw some issues with my 67'. I say 'finally' even though I've only had it for 3 days.. lol

Had it on baseball and the ticker at the top was noticably slanted... it was off by less than a 1/4 inch and I found that pusing either corner of the tv back would move either side.. my solution : I pushed both corners back and let them come back as naturally as possible..now it looks fine.. I'm not going to measure it again unless its noticible.

I don't think I could bear going through the return process (and I'd have to do it through samsung I'm sure as they place I got it was small and likely wouldn't switch it for this).. in any case... it looks fine now.. I hope it stays that way.. and PQ it still fantastic and overall I'm happy... to be honest I dont' know if I would have noticed the 'tilt' had I not read that it might exist..
I could have sworn I read this exact same post in another thread... :confused:

When I first joined the forums, it was considered poor forum etiquette to "double post" the same item in multiple threads and transgressors were summarily taken to task. Evidently, the etiquette police have long passed...

I figured posting in both the owners thread and this one might benefit people if they weren't checking both threads

I won't do it again

Does anyone have a stand recommendation for the 67"?

This is the stand that I am using and the 67 fits perfectly on it.

http://images.bestbuy.com/BestBuy_US/images/products/8193/8193554_ra.jpg

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage.jsp?skuId=8193554&type=product&id=1165609791326

That suxx, hopefully A850 will be coming out...


Cool, added to the FAQ! xHD5 is Darkchip 3, same as used in last years models. :mad:

Why? There are more non-owners complaining about the chip then there are owners complaining about the picture....

--Jerome

I got my stand for my 61a750 from bestbuy the day i got my tv.
it was originally 299.99, but was on clearance and i got it for 59.99. for some reason the site still shows it for 249.99. anyway, the stand supports up to 150 to 200 pounds i believe. and the 67 looks like it would be the same exact width as the stand.
http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a308/jgf276/TV%20stuff/th_DSC00140.jpg (http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a308/jgf276/TV%20stuff/DSC00140.jpg)http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a308/jgf276/TV%20stuff/th_DSC00142.jpg (http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a308/jgf276/TV%20stuff/DSC00142.jpg)
click on the images to blow them up.
and please dont mind the screen glare. I have to change my blinds out, amongst several other things.

What are the base dimensions on the 67"?

Thanks. :)

This is the stand that I am using and the 67 fits perfectly on it.

http://images.bestbuy.com/BestBuy_US/images/products/8193/8193554_ra.jpg

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage.jsp?skuId=8193554&type=product&id=1165609791326

Same stand i bought, just put it together today, pictures to follow tomorrow.

Sometimes I wonder if this forum is good for your sanity.

The reviews on Amazon, which certainly are coming from a more generic technical place, are outstanding, 4.5* or better.

The reviews on this board make me wonder if I should be buying any TV.

I went to 6th Avenue electronics to look at the 61 & 67, and I asked if any have been returned yet. The salesman said none

But when I read these threads, it seems almost every other person is returning their 61 or 67".

It's very frustrating to get excited about purchasing these tv's if it's a crapshoot, or does this forum just bring out the complainers only and 95% of these TVs are fine?

I figured posting in both the owners thread and this one might benefit people if they weren't checking both threads

I won't do it again
Please be sure to post this apology on the owners thread as well.;)

... or does this forum just bring out the complainers only No, but it does bring out a lot of knowledgeable consumers who want what they are paying for and it does bring out a lot of people with earnest problems. ... and 95% of these TVs are fine? Yep. To the typical BB or CC consumer, I'd agree. (How many folks would return a set, as I did, just to get a different version of the firmware that a Samsung rep claimed did not exist.)

BTW, I also agree, it is a roll of the dice.

Sometimes I wonder if this forum is good for your sanity.

The reviews on Amazon, which certainly are coming from a more generic technical place, are outstanding, 4.5* or better.

The reviews on this board make me wonder if I should be buying any TV.

I went to 6th Avenue electronics to look at the 61 & 67, and I asked if any have been returned yet. The salesman said none

But when I read these threads, it seems almost every other person is returning their 61 or 67".

It's very frustrating to get excited about purchasing these tv's if it's a crapshoot, or does this forum just bring out the complainers only and 95% of these TVs are fine?

You do need to be careful and not get too discouraged with forums like this. The amount of problems reported in forums like this is HUGELY disproportionate to reality. People come here to post questions and problems more than to post "everything is great", so it is over represented. I'm sure there are thousands of satisfied customers owning this TV. If you have any doubts, just make sure you get it from a place that has a decent return policy, like Amazon or Best Buy, etc.

Hmm, I don't have Guitar Hero on Wii, and I don't play a bunch of Wii games, but I haven't seen that on my Wii over component connection. And this is the first time in this whole thread I've seen it mentioned. Not that it proves anything, but that is a little unusual. I don't think I would have missed it.

I'll try to watch a little closer.

I imagine most owners probably set the game input to Entertainment:Game mode and with most games the delay doesn't make a major difference but with rythm games, it can be frustrating at times. One way you can see for yourself is to watch the Wii cusor as you move quickly around the screen while in Entertainment:Game mode and without it.

Thanks for the previous feedback.

I figured posting in both the owners thread and this one might benefit people if they weren't checking both threads



so did I. funny to get reprimanded for it, meaning the threads were read, and received complaints but no replies. LOL

What are the base dimensions on the 67"?

Thanks. :)

Anybody?

How wide and how deep?

Heres a picture on my 61" on the Init 63" Stand that i just got yesterday from Best Buy for those looking into it. It fits great and the stand is well built and sturdy and has tons of space.

http://empty-site.com/gallery/d/838-3/DSC_0990.JPG

You do need to be careful and not get too discouraged with forums like this. The amount of problems reported in forums like this is HUGELY disproportionate to reality. People come here to post questions and problems more than to post "everything is great", so it is over represented. I'm sure there are thousands of satisfied customers owning this TV. If you have any doubts, just make sure you get it from a place that has a decent return policy, like Amazon or Best Buy, etc.

This forum is no different than the camera forums (dpreview.com) that I frequent. You'd think that all digicams are junk, garbage, flotsam, etc. etc.
When you have forums for technically oriented enthusiasts, they're naturally going to be drawn to the flaws. I think that Amazon represents a better cross section of "average" folks. Whether or not you consider yourself "average" is a whole nuther story. ;)

This forum is no different than the camera forums (dpreview.com) that I frequent. You'd think that all digicams are junk, garbage, flotsam, etc. etc.
When you have forums for technically oriented enthusiasts, they're naturally going to be drawn to the flaws. I think that Amazon represents a better cross section of "average" folks. Whether or not you consider yourself "average" is a whole nuther story. ;)

I call myself in the middle, I like to research the hell out of something.. but I am also not inclined to be a nut with precision, after I set it up correct, if it looks good and sounds good I'm good.

I am really leaning to this 61" LED for a number of reasons.. but some of these posts just scare the crap out of me. I am not too keen on preparing myself to return this TV right after I bought it.

its just like when you were a kid, and you would get into trouble and get your ass handed to you for it by your parents or teachers, etc. But do something Good and it gets overlooked.

Its GOOD taken for GRANTED. Everyone is guilty, some more than others, myself included.

But in anycase, its still possible to find truthful reviews(customer reviews).
While it is true that usually more people complain than praise, now a days alot of customers that buy products like to leave reviews (good or bad) simply to feel as though their voice is being heard.
Point in case, Almost all the customer reviews I could find for the 61a750, especially on Circuit city and best buys site, were GOOD!

This is the stand that I am using and the 67 fits perfectly on it.

http://images.bestbuy.com/BestBuy_US/images/products/8193/8193554_ra.jpg

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage.jsp?skuId=8193554&type=product&id=1165609791326

I have an enclosed stand. The Bush SWP60 for my 67 inch model. Also fits perfectly.

http://www.circuitcity.com/IMAGE/product/enlarged600/thc/PC.THC.SWP60.CN.JPG

I have an enclosed stand. The Bush SWP60 for my 67 inch model. Also fits perfectly.

http://www.circuitcity.com/IMAGE/product/enlarged600/thc/PC.THC.SWP60.CN.JPG

I'm pretty sure I saw a black version of this one in Sears.. it looked really nice.

Almost all the customer reviews I could find for the 61a750, especially on Circuit city and best buys site, were GOOD!

Exactly, not a single mention of picture geometry problems, which I find hard to believe none of them are having any. Maybe they are just morons.

Exactly, not a single mention of picture geometry problems, which I find hard to believe none of them are having any. Maybe they are just morons.

Or, maybe they're just NOT a bunch of anal-retentives measuring their display aberrations with micrometers...

Not that there's anything WRONG with that... :D

Or, maybe they're just NOT a bunch of anal-retentives measuring their display aberrations with micrometers...

Not that there's anything WRONG with that... :D

LOL, yeah my wife still says she doesnt see the curve Im talking about.

Hello,

Does anyone happen to know of any discrete hex codes for the entertainment modes? I've got the ones for the sources and picture sizes but can't find these (if they exist at all).

I'd love to be able to macro the game system to automatically put it in game mode.

Thanks!

It's very frustrating to get excited about purchasing these tv's if it's a crapshoot, or does this forum just bring out the complainers only and 95% of these TVs are fine?

I am really leaning to this 61" LED for a number of reasons.. but some of these posts just scare the crap out of me. I am not too keen on preparing myself to return this TV right after I bought it.

In all honesty, and I've said it in this thread numerous times, if you really feel this way, Samsung DLP tech is not for you. It most definitely is a crap shoot. That is the nature of the RP beast compared to "safer" LCD or plasma.

I call myself in the middle, I like to research the hell out of something.. but I am also not inclined to be a nut with precision, after I set it up correct, if it looks good and sounds good I'm good.

I am really leaning to this 61" LED for a number of reasons.. but some of these posts just scare the crap out of me. I am not too keen on preparing myself to return this TV right after I bought it.


Let me add to what Mike and Triple-X have said.

I took delivery on my 61" about 3 hours ago. Geometry issues do exist but are relatively minor (about 1/4" on the bottom left vertical). If I wouldn't have thrown up the grid display, I never would have noticed it. Even now, after knowing it's there, it doesn't bother me in the least.

I was like you as far as being reluctant to pull the trigger. I read that this television was not bright enough, it was plagued by geometry issues, people had returned their set 2 or 3 times, etc.... I have been tentatively considering this set for over a month, researching every inch of this thread. Finally I figured "What the hell" and purchased the set through Amazon.

Well let me tell you, the posters who are saying that the display of the set in a store not doing it justice, are 100% correct. After matching my settings to those by Mike in the FAQ, my television's picture is amazing. It is VERY bright out of the box. I had the delivery guys leave the box fearing that I would need it when I made the inevitable return. After a burn-in over the weekend to make sure there's no serious problems, that box is going out to the curb. I'm keeping my HL61A750 thank you very much.

This is my 4th HD televison and let me tell you. it blows my previous 3 out of the water. As I'm typing this, I've got an HD replay of last night's hockey game on and the picture is stunning. My wife, who has been very unimpressed by picture quality in the past ("That's a guy thing"), is blown away.

Now it's possible I got lucky but I believe there are far more people who are getting "lucky" with their sets than people who are "unlucky".

My recommendation is just buy the thing. I have both a plasma and an LCD. Every format has it's issues. If a relatively minor geometry issue is going to bother you, then buy from a company with a good return policy.

You're missing out on a hell of a television at a great price.

Geometry issues....must....not...accept...arghhhhh....


Where is my 72-3 inch, Samsung???

my 67 from BB was perfect. :)

i probably wouldnt have looked or noticied if it wasnt for this forum but after i did it was still perfect so thats one small step for mankind.

How many folks would return a set, as I did, just to get a different version of the firmware that a Samsung rep claimed did not exist.

Probably not many since you can download it from their website. ;)

How many folks would return a set, as I did, just to get a different version of the firmware that a Samsung rep claimed did not exist.

Probably not many since you can download it from their website. ;)


WOW , and I thought I was Picky!:rolleyes:

In all honesty, and I've said it in this thread numerous times, if you really feel this way, Samsung DLP tech is not for you. It most definitely is a crap shoot. That is the nature of the RP beast compared to "safer" LCD or plasma.

If only the odds in Las Vegas were as good as this "crap shoot" seems to be!!

And they have a definite "no returns " policy.

Also, I've noticed lately a lot less complaints from new owners, and even less on the 67" model.

And they have a definite "no returns " policy.

.

WHO?

WHO?

Las Vegas. :cool:

Probably not many since you can download it from their website. ;)Nope. I have an A650. There are no official downloads for this model even though there are two versions of the firmware in the wild.

Las Vegas. :cool:

ohh duh..:rolleyes:

I also got my 61A750 (from "the River") a few hours ago. I thought the comments on geometry might be indicative of a vocal minority but, unfortunately, I have to add another example.

My set has a tilt - low left to high right - of more than 1 1/4 inches (pretty noticeable - not planning to shim the whole set). I haven't seen anyone mention this but using one of the service menu test patterns (the thin white lines), the upper line is red from the right corner back left about 16 inches. No noticeable bowing.

Folks have mentioned hearing a buzz in Dynamic - which I haven't but there's definitely a strong buzz if I use the USB stick (in the menu alone, exacerbated if viewing a photo - like grid.jpg). I don't plan to use the USB stick much but I'll be asking Samsung for some kind of explanation.

As far as HDTV, OTA 720P HD is a bit grainy but 1080i is great. Blu-ray is pretty darn stunning.

The CEVA delivery dude didn't stick around long enough for me to test the set so I'm going to see if I can resolve these issues before the hassle of sending it back.

If anyone is interested, I'll post my experiences going forward.

I'm about to get a Samsung DLP HDTV but I can't decide between the A650 and the A750 model. I've read conflicting reviews about the A750 model. Is seems that the A650 model is better "bang for the buck."

Can someone tell me which is model has better PQ and is there a MAJOR difference between the two.....or are BOTH pretty much equal?

Which one is recommended?

Vocal minority. . .that's pretty funny.

Pics have been posted. Its a measurable flaw. Its because of the lack of precision in manufacturing, which is understandable considering the way these are made and is now almost a 6 year old Sammy issue. If they haven't figured out the QC in the first year or two, they never will.

I just don't get the hand wringing over this (not picking on you GeneralAudio, yours is just yet another example of a typical post). You may get lucky or you may not. The people that get the good sets think they are all good, the ones that don't begin to understand. Maybe it would be a simpler concept if it was black and white if you had "good" or "bad" geometry but it is somewhat up to individual perception.

I thought the comments on geometry might be indicative of a vocal minority but, unfortunately, I have to add another example.

Let me add to what Mike and Triple-X have said.

I took delivery on my 61" about 3 hours ago. Geometry issues do exist but are relatively minor (about 1/4" on the bottom left vertical). If I wouldn't have thrown up the grid display, I never would have noticed it. Even now, after knowing it's there, it doesn't bother me in the least.

I was like you as far as being reluctant to pull the trigger. I read that this television was not bright enough, it was plagued by geometry issues, people had returned their set 2 or 3 times, etc.... I have been tentatively considering this set for over a month, researching every inch of this thread. Finally I figured "What the hell" and purchased the set through Amazon.

Well let me tell you, the posters who are saying that the display of the set in a store not doing it justice, are 100% correct. After matching my settings to those by Mike in the FAQ, my television's picture is amazing. It is VERY bright out of the box. I had the delivery guys leave the box fearing that I would need it when I made the inevitable return. After a burn-in over the weekend to make sure there's no serious problems, that box is going out to the curb. I'm keeping my HL61A750 thank you very much.

This is my 4th HD televison and let me tell you. it blows my previous 3 out of the water. As I'm typing this, I've got an HD replay of last night's hockey game on and the picture is stunning. My wife, who has been very unimpressed by picture quality in the past ("That's a guy thing"), is blown away.

Now it's possible I got lucky but I believe there are far more people who are getting "lucky" with their sets than people who are "unlucky".

My recommendation is just buy the thing. I have both a plasma and an LCD. Every format has it's issues. If a relatively minor geometry issue is going to bother you, then buy from a company with a good return policy.

You're missing out on a hell of a television at a great price.

Thankyou for the sales pitch, I need more posts like this to get me off the fence

I am inching forward to the 61", I'll post my experiences post purchase.

Thanks Turls. Now I see some other folks pics of their screen skew I have a better idea of where my set is on the continuum (worse). I got an excellent deal from "the big drainage ditch" - I'd like to try to get this resolved w/o moving to another vendor.

As others have noted, when things are great people generally don't post, so I might be one of a handfull.

I did think with a new light engine (sans wheel and single bulb) that Samsung's DLP geometry issues would be less likely.

I did think with a new light engine (sans wheel and single bulb) that Samsung's DLP geometry issues would be less likely.
the problem seems to be more related to the cabinet and the mirror support rather than the lamp or engine.

some people would probably not even notice geometry problems. I saw ppl on here post pictures of poor geometry and they said it was OK.

I went to a freinds house a year ago and he had a RPCRT that had horrible geometry. He didnt even notice, but I found it unwatchable (i went ahead and fixed it for him).

Everyone has different expectations, but I would guess most people on this forum know what good geo is and what is not ;)

From what I've read here, the 67 seems to have a sturdier frame which results in a more uniform image. My "ancient" HLN617W has a frame that I could practically stand on and there are no geometry issues with it. Unless you consider crappy 4:3 TV. I have a center chanel sitting on my case and it weighs 21.8 LB's.

Just buy it, have it delivered and make sure the store has a good return policy. Everyone in my family thought i was crazy when i mentioned our 42'' Sammy DLP and 50'' Panny looked kinda iffy, i later discovered SSE and PWM noise, that's what happens when you have 20/20 vision :D Taking a huge TV back to the store will be a PITA and i can see everyone turning against you, "oh it looks fine" :p

Just ... and i can see everyone turning against you, "oh it looks fine" :pThe worst part is when the replacement is worse to the point that "even" the wife sees the difference and then the chorus "you should have kept the first one" begins.

Nope. I have an A650. There are no official downloads for this model even though there are two versions of the firmware in the wild.

Oops, sorry I thought you were talking about the 750.

I'm about to get a Samsung DLP HDTV but I can't decide between the A650 and the A750 model. I've read conflicting reviews about the A750 model. Is seems that the A650 model is better "bang for the buck."

Can someone tell me which is model has better PQ and is there a MAJOR difference between the two.....or are BOTH pretty much equal?

Which one is recommended?

I'm going to make my purchase tomorrow. Can someone please answer my question(s).

I'm going to make my purchase tomorrow. Can someone please answer my question(s).

From the Great Owners Thread:

Why should I get a 750 LED series over the 650 bulb series?

* The 750 comes in bigger sizes, 61" and 67".
* The 750 has an LED light source that should last the life of the set. No bulbs to replace.
* The 750 uses the CinemaPure Color Engine that creates brilliant, realistic images and displays color that’s 40% brighter than traditional HDTVs. (Note that most sources don't take advantage of this extra color space. Some Camcorders do support it.)
* Nearly instant startup times, with instant brightness no need for the bulb or ballast to warm up.
* No spinning color wheel, so quieter TV (color wheels spin fast and can sometimes have a high pitch whine), and less moving parts
* Much, much less chance of seeing rainbows as the LED's cycle much faster than the color wheel.
* "Green" TV. The LED set uses much less power than bulb based sets and has one of the lowest energy consumption of TV's. Note that actual energy usage is less than the max rated watts listed on the TV.


- Why should I get the 650 series over the 750?

* Cheaper.
* Want a smaller size, 56" or below.


I might be buying the 61 or the 67 this weekend myself.

Good luck to us both!

I'm going to make my purchase tomorrow. Can someone please answer my question(s).

I had last years model (2007) 67" bulb based set that was replaced by Samsung with this years (2008) 67" LED set. In terms of power consumption the LED set probably uses about half the electricity, the bulb last 4 to 5 thousand hours and costs $150 each. the LED last the life of the set and has no color wheel. Brightness is about the same, so in the long run the LED set is a much better value.

I had last years model (2007) 67" bulb based set that was replaced by Samsung with this years (2008) 67" LED set. In terms of power consumption the LED set probably uses about half the electricity, the bulb last 4 to 5 thousand hours and costs $150 each. the LED last the life of the set and has no color wheel. Brightness is about the same, so in the long run the LED set is a much better value.

Thanks. In terms of pictuare quality.....are both about the same?

I had last years model (2007) 67" bulb based set that was replaced by Samsung with this years (2008) 67" LED set. In terms of power consumption the LED set probably uses about half the electricity, the bulb last 4 to 5 thousand hours and costs $150 each. the LED last the life of the set and has no color wheel. Brightness is about the same, so in the long run the LED set is a much better value.


Especially for people like myself and it runs for 12+ hours a day and have over 25000 hours on my HLM/N bulb-based set and have used over 3 bulbs in 5+ years/ This LED set is money in the bank.

Thanks. In terms of pictuare quality.....are both about the same?

I found the picture quality about the same, but many say they LED light source delivers more accurate colors.

<taboo>p.s. I just noticed that Amazon dropped the price of the 67A750 to $2099.98. I had zero issues with their post-order price guarantee over the phone. Got $250 back...cha-ching!!</taboo>

Thanks. In terms of picture quality.....are both about the same?

I dunno man.. having stood next to the 61a650 and 61a750 in two different BB's and a CC now, I have to say 2 out of 3 times the 750 was certainly brighter (the 3rd time was likely the LED lamp setting in the menu) and to me definitely looked crisper and had more pop, in that the colors appeared very vibrant without being OVER saturated.

Considering the Lamp vs LED pros and cons, I think its a no brainer, also considering that like You I was looking at the 650 originally, then discovered the 750 and was able to compare the brightness of it to a sammy LN52a550 (52" LCD) that was on sale as well. I got the 750, the rest is history.

as for the "Crap shoot" issue of getting a good one out of the box. it is what it is.
I would likely KEEP mine if I wasnt SOOOOOOO picky and didnt have 20/20 vision, a debilitating attraction to visual flaws on my screen, and an awful gaming/bluray addiction!
LOL
as a result I WILL be swapping it out for THE SAME MODEL. But I will be testing in full IN HOME b4 the original one leaves.

Can someone who has the 67" measure the exact height for me? I've seen different things.

Thanks!

From the Great Owners Thread:

Why should I get a 750 LED series over the 650 bulb series?

* The 750 comes in bigger sizes, 61" and 67".
* The 750 has an LED light source that should last the life of the set. No bulbs to replace.
* The 750 uses the CinemaPure Color Engine that creates brilliant, realistic images and displays color that’s 40% brighter than traditional HDTVs. (Note that most sources don't take advantage of this extra color space. Some Camcorders do support it.)
* Nearly instant startup times, with instant brightness no need for the bulb or ballast to warm up.
* No spinning color wheel, so quieter TV (color wheels spin fast and can sometimes have a high pitch whine), and less moving parts
* Much, much less chance of seeing rainbows as the LED's cycle much faster than the color wheel.
* "Green" TV. The LED set uses much less power than bulb based sets and has one of the lowest energy consumption of TV's. Note that actual energy usage is less than the max rated watts listed on the TV.


- Why should I get the 650 series over the 750?

* Cheaper.
* Want a smaller size, 56" or below.


I might be buying the 61 or the 67 this weekend myself.

Good luck to us both!
Not sure you got the whole TV size part right. The 650 comes in a 61A650 and a 72A650, so the biggest set they make is a 650, not 750.

<taboo>p.s. I just noticed that Amazon dropped the price of the 67A750 to $2099.98. I had zero issues with their post-order price guarantee over the phone. Got $250 back...cha-ching!!</taboo>

I just went to Fry's a local store mostly in the west and Texas. They had the 61 for 1899 and the 67 for 1999. Maybe you can get another 100 bucks back. It isnt show on the website but was in their print ad for Dallas / Fort Worth Texas. Probably the same other places also.

the height is just over 41"

the height is just over 41"

Thanks!

Not sure if this has already been discussed, I am looking for the timings that are appropriate for an A750 being fed from a PC via DVI-HDMI. The default settings have some overscan, and when i underscan things start to look bad. My graphics card has some numbers I can tweak, which I suppose is what people normally use powerstrip for. However, the terms "front porch" and vertical sync elude me, and when I try them I usually get a "mode not supported".

if only they made an LED version of the 72...yum

I think the question is when, not if. Can anyone confirm?

<taboo>p.s. I just noticed that Amazon dropped the price of the 67A750 to $2099.98. I had zero issues with their post-order price guarantee over the phone. Got $250 back...cha-ching!!</taboo>
Thanks for the heads up! I just purchased mine 2 days ago and hadn't thought to check so quickly. $250 back, just like that! :cool:

To think I almost bought from 6th Ave. through Amazon to save, at the time, $100. Sure glad I didn't.

I couldn't resist with that new price, I've got a 67" on the way now from the River.

My 67" set was delivered this past Thursday. I can understand why there might be some concerns/complaints about the build quality. Specifically, the frame around the screen is not as rigid and stiff as I would have expected, and this isn't something that would probably occur to a customer to look at while demoing the set at a store. It never occured to me and I demoed and bought my set from a local retailer.

That being said, I think my initial concerns have been satisfacorily laid to rest. The screen does flex a bit when you handle the set, but it appears to return to normal after it is placed on a stand. And I don't have any future plans to be constantly grabbing the set by the corners just so I can notice the screen flexing for the sole purpose of complaining about the build quality.

To Samsung's great credit the picture quality is stunningly superb in terms of resolving power, screen geometry, and image depth. The color is a little off but I will correct that with a calibration. I have watched several Blu-ray and HD DVD movies over the past few days: The Fifth Element, The 6th Day, Patton, Bruce Almighty, The Matrix, and Streets of Fire. Not once was I disappointed with the image depth, detail, and geometry. I continue to be very impressed with just how thin a rear-projection set of this size can be.

I would recommend this set to anyone without reservation.

--Jerome

Anyone found a retailer for these sets in Canada? I'd love to see one in a store.

how long are the deliveries taking from amazon usually. i'm thinking about returning my $2199 + tax 67 purchase from BB and re-ordering from amazon.

My 67" set was delivered this past Thursday. I can understand why there might be some concerns/complaints about the build quality. Specifically, the frame around the screen is not as rigid and stiff as I would have expected, and this isn't something that would probably occur to a customer to look at while demoing the set at a store. It never occured to me and I demoed and bought my set from a local retailer.

That being said, I think my initial concerns have been satisfacorily laid to rest. The screen does flex a bit when you handle the set, but it appears to return to normal after it is placed on a stand. And I don't have any future plans to be constantly grabbing the set by the corners just so I can notice the screen flexing for the sole purpose of complaining about the build quality.



--Jerome


Glad to hear you like your set. I am continuously blown away by the picture quality of mine.
But with all due respect I think you may be missing the point a little.
While I understand your point regarding the slim depth and frame, and while I'm pretty sure that none of the other owners of this set(myself included) bought it for the purpose of flexing the frame, and complaining about it, I think your missing the fact that the LACK of rigidity in the frame may be the likely cause in the geometry issues that have been reported with this model. Think of that reduced rigidity and the effect that shipping these may have on the overall geometry once unboxed and setup. (given the packaging used, which is sub par IMO)
Now, in a perfect world, I would have gotten mine home and had not one problem. But that was not the case, as with several others. And I don't feel as though we are complaining, but rather voicing our concerns and findings, and more so, networking as to find solutions to common problems, some that may fall into a margin of acceptability. (As I have also posted, I have found My set has far more flimsy a frame than the ones I have since demoed in stores)

Not to mention the fact that those who speak out about these issues within this and other forums, and with returns and exchanges, send a message to the companies who make these products. One I think should be delivered more accurately than the geometry on some of these sets. But more so the message should be one of a couple of things. How bout "we work hard for our money and this just isn't good enough" or maybe, "Come on, you've almost got it Sammy, just work on stiffening that frame a little and it'll be perfect, so that everybody will want one!"

All that said, If not for the PRICE, astounding picture quality, and slim size, I wouldn't even think twice about getting it exchanged but rather, replaced. But Am I to believe that I and others are picky because we are bothered by our entire projected images being off tilt by up to a half an inch counterclockwise?
I don't think so. If my set was as yours is, with correct geometry, yet a flimsy frame, I would probably be fine with that too.
But it's not. So it will be replaced by an identical model, hopefully one without issues.. just like yours!

P.S. not meaning to go off on you.. so please dont take my reply in that manner. ;)

how long are the deliveries taking from amazon usually. i'm thinking about returning my $2199 + tax 67 purchase from BB and re-ordering from amazon.

didnt you say your set was perfect and had no issues? I would leave it be, and try to get a refund for the difference maybe?

i'd love to get the refund yer right but they're a bunch of chibes at my local BB and all of the good prices are online. part of me says you're right tho. the other part says damn - almost $300 - thats my stand or some other goodie.

i'd love to get the refund yer right but they're a bunch of chibes at my local BB and all of the good prices are online. part of me says you're right tho. the other part says damn - almost $300 - thats my stand or some other goodie.

haha.. what if you get it from amazon, and test it first. if its good , then just return the bestbuy one.
if the amazon one isnt good , then just return the amazon one TO besybuy's chibes!
hahah:D:mad::D


that 2099 for the 67 is still 390 more than i paid for my 61. even the 61 price is still almost 100 more than I paid. but if it keeps dropping I will be owed some $$$ as well!
i got my 1709 price tag at my local BB too, after a 1899 CC price match and a 10% off coupon. plus 3 free BD's and my stand for 59.99! gotta give credit to my BB. although I do admit some of them there are certainly chibes too

haha.. what if you get it from amazon, and test it first. if its good , then just return the bestbuy one.
if the amazon one isnt good , then just return the amazon one TO besybuy's chibes!
hahah:D:mad::D

Probably not a good idea if they track serial numbers.

Probably not a good idea if they track serial numbers.

if.....;)

P.S. not meaning to go off on you.. so please dont take my reply in that manner. ;)
Well that's exactly what it sounds like to me.

I'm not missing the point at all, but you seem to be interested in invalidating my comments simply because you happen to disagree with me on a few points. The last time I checked this thread was welcome to everyone who wanted to participate in this discussion. Since I own the product I think that qualifes me at least as much as anyone else to comment on it.

Now if the goal here is to silence people who are happy with their purchase and may have different priorities than you, then the moderators should change the title of this thread so that people who like the set and don't really have a problem with the build quality will know that their opinion is unwelcome here.

My opinion stands, such as it is. Take it or leave it on that basis. I never suggested that people who are unhappy with their sets shouldn't post, nor did I say that their problems are mere figments of the imagination. I'm sure their problems are very real, but that has nothing to do with me. I noted that the frame is not as rigid as I would have expected, but it doesn't seem to affect the picture geometry on my set and until it does then I don't have an issue with it. The fact that some of you have issues is regrettable, but that doesn't affect my product satisfaction level.

--Jerome

Well that's exactly what it sounds like to me.

I'm not missing the point at all, but you seem to be interested in invalidating my comments simply because you happen to disagree with me on a few points. The last time I checked this thread was welcome to everyone who wanted to participate in this discussion. Since I own the product I think that qualifes me at least as much as anyone else to comment on it.

Now if the goal here is to silence people who are happy with their purchase and may have different priorities than you, then the moderators should change the title of this thread so that people who like the set and don't really have a problem with the build quality will know that their opinion is unwelcome here.

My opinion stands, such as it is. Take it or leave it on that basis. I never suggested that people who are unhappy with their sets shouldn't post, nor did I say that their problems are mere figments of the imagination. I'm sure their problems are very real, but that has nothing to do with me. I noted that the frame is not as rigid as I would have expected, but it doesn't seem to affect the picture geometry on my set and until it does then I don't have an issue with it. The fact that some of you have issues is regrettable, but that doesn't affect my product satisfaction level.

--Jerome

I agree. both happy and unhappy people should give their experiences. I personally am more happy than unhappy and have only ONE complaint that SEVERAL others share in. Im sure we ALL wish our sets were as perfect as your was.
And I don't think anything I said was in an attempt "invalidate" your comments. But rather, point out that the flex can and may have a direct impact on the geometry issues that some of us have. Maybe you need to reread my reply a little more carefully before getting so defensive.
My reply was NOT a personal attack on you.
Its unfortunate you took it that way. I'm glad that you don't have any issues with your set, and was merely pointing out that for those of us that do.. well, we should be as happy as you .. now shouldn't we?

we also should be able to be dissatisfied/unhappy about an issue without someone insinuating that we have "plans of constantly grabbing our set by the corners to just so we can notice how much flex it has for the SOLE PURPOSE of complaining about it"

The purpose of this and most threads is so we can hear both sides, the good and the bad, hopefully without being ridiculed in the process.
so I'm sorry if you took that as a personal attack and felt the need to snap back.

I dunno man.. having stood next to the 61a650 and 61a750 in two different BB's and a CC now, I have to say 2 out of 3 times the 750 was certainly brighter (the 3rd time was likely the LED lamp setting in the menu) and to me definitely looked crisper and had more pop, in that the colors appeared very vibrant without being OVER saturated.

I went to CC and BB today at compared the A650 (56") and the A750 (61") side-by-side and in terms of brightness and PQ....I couldn't tell much difference to be honest with you. BOTH looked equally stunning....and other than the "LED" sticker on the A750 cabinet, I wouldn't have been able to tell which one was which.

I think I'm gonna go w/ the A650 because of the couch-to-TV distance in my living room setup, anything greater than a 56" TV would probably be "overkill." Besides, I purchase new TVs every 2-3 years so I'm not overly concerned with the bulb replacement in the 650 series.

I went to CC and BB today at compared the A650 (56") and the A750 (61") side-by-side and in terms of brightness and PQ....I couldn't tell much difference to be honest with you. BOTH looked equally stunning....and other than the "LED" sticker on the A750 cabinet, I wouldn't have been able to tell which one was which.

I think I'm gonna go w/ the A650 because of the couch-to-TV distance in my living room setup, anything greater than a 56" TV would probably be "overkill." Besides, I purchase new TVs every 2-3 years so I'm not overly concerned with the bulb replacement in the 650 series.

Cool. Enjoy it!
If I knew then what I know now when I went to look, I would have likely asked for the remotes for both sets and compared the two after tweaking the settings a bit, as well as seeing how they looked at default. But undoubtedly, they are both great looking sets!
The bulb life was gonna be an issue for me, so I chose LED.
Let us know how you make out. and Good Luck!:cool:

A few people (or maybe the same person twice) have commented that the 67 has not been as bright for them as the 61, and had a less-crisp image. Has anyone else with a 67 who also looked seriously at the 61 noticed either of these issues? The 67 is overkill for my current viewing distance, but I'm leaning toward it simply because the price difference is minimal and because I have a little more faith in the sturdier frame. (I'm well aware some have reported geometry issues with it, and that the frame alone is not the culprit.) But overall PQ and brightness is a major issue for me as well.

Maybe you need to reread my reply a little more carefully before getting so defensive.
And you might have choosen your words a little more carefully before posting. It works both ways Triple-X.

Anyway, I've said what I wanted to say about the set and I'm done with this thread.

--Jerome

Has anyone else with a 67 who also looked seriously at the 61 noticed either of these issues?
I have had my 67" for about 4 days and it's every bit as bright as the 61" I saw in BB. I have a moderate amount of ambient light in this room but it easily does the job. And the picture is STUNNING. That word gets used a lot here, but it's well earned. I replaced a 65" Toshiba RP, and the detail on this set is fantastic. The colors were a bit off (kind of green on some inputs) but calibration fixes that just fine. And yes, Dynamic mode is worthless.

I am totally happy with this set. I am trying to get my setup (HD-DVD, PS3, and DirecTV HR21 into an Onkyo SR875 to the TV) so that I don't keep getting the "Searching for Signal" display so much. I have it set to "Just Scan" but other things in the chain might need to change, too... oh well, fun stuff.

A few people (or maybe the same person twice) have commented that the 67 has not been as bright for them as the 61, and had a less-crisp image. Has anyone else with a 67 who also looked seriously at the 61 noticed either of these issues?

I compared them side-by-side. I was set to buy the 67", but changed my mind because the 61" had a sharper image. Not hugely so, but just enough to catch my eye and change my choice. It's always difficult to judge in the big box stores, because they use RF distribution systems with marginal PQ. But the difference was there, and the 2 sets appeared to have identical picture settings as far as brightness and color. I stood there and looked at them for quite a while.

I just got the 72" sammy and absolutely LOVE it! The picture looks amazing and everything is going great. For some reason I can't figure out how to get it to play in 120hz. I'm not sure if I am doing something wrong or I just dont know what im doing. Which is a possibility since i'm a newb!

I just got the 72" sammy and absolutely LOVE it! The picture looks amazing and everything is going great. For some reason I can't figure out how to get it to play in 120hz. I'm not sure if I am doing something wrong or I just dont know what im doing. Which is a possibility since i'm a newb!It's always displaying at a refresh rate of 120hz. The number you see is the rate for the input.

Hi Dave.. I would pm ya but you're not accepting pm's I guess.. lol

If you're anywhere near Warden and Steeles (Scarborough) there is one on display in a fairly small store.. I bought mine there so pm me if you want any details

http://www.hdtvelectronics.com/

sd

I went to CC and BB today at compared the A650 (56") and the A750 (61") side-by-side and in terms of brightness and PQ....I couldn't tell much difference to be honest with you. BOTH looked equally stunning....and other than the "LED" sticker on the A750 cabinet, I wouldn't have been able to tell which one was which.

I think I'm gonna go w/ the A650 because of the couch-to-TV distance in my living room setup, anything greater than a 56" TV would probably be "overkill." Besides, I purchase new TVs every 2-3 years so I'm not overly concerned with the bulb replacement in the 650 series.

what is your couch-to-tv distance, just out of curiosity?

what is your couch-to-tv distance, just out of curiosity?

About 10 feet.

Do all DLPs still suffer from "bowing". Are lines across the top, bottom or sides of the screen still concave? When watching ESPN, CNN, 4:3 material, 2:35 material etc.; do the lines still bow? Does the LED model suffer from this as well? Thanks!

Do all DLPs still suffer from "bowing". Are lines across the top, bottom or sides of the screen still concave? When watching ESPN, CNN, 4:3 material, 2:35 material etc.; do the lines still bow? Does the LED model suffer from this as well? Thanks!


search this thread for the answer... before you complain that the thread is 130 pages long, the reason its that long is because the same questions get asked over and over again and then someone has to answer them again and again.

this issue is talked about on every page in here, you didnt even look

Hi Dave.. I would pm ya but you're not accepting pm's I guess.. lol

If you're anywhere near Warden and Steeles (Scarborough) there is one on display in a fairly small store.. I bought mine there so pm me if you want any details

http://www.hdtvelectronics.com/

sd

how much was it there. I'm in Canada as well

no bowing in my 67" but I do have a question for people that have the new led sets, is it just me of can you see the individual RBG led's in the color when in a dark backround and a much lighter object appears. If I shift my eyes back and forth I can see very distinct RBG colors in the objects and since it's a big tv you tend to do that alot.
I've looked at both the 61" and the 67" and both were the same, I read of others seeing the same thing but just wondering how many there were. I showed my friends how to make it appear and they could all see it to after describing what to look for.

It's only really noticeable when I look for it but it most surely is there. It doesn't really bother me to much just more curious is all, the picture is really good!!! much better than I expected after calibration.

Hi, I'm trying to decide between the A650 and the A750 series. I apologize if my question has been discussed previously.

I went to a few local retailers (Best Buy and Circuit City) to look at them. I looked at three A750 sets. It seemed to me that the A750's picture consistently looked bluer than the A650 or Mitsubishi DLPs when comparing side by side. The blue tint was especially apparent on white colors. At first I thought maybe the A750s were on a cool color temperature setting, but when I checked the menu they were all on standard. I changed the mode to dynamic and movie modes but that made no difference. I also tried changing the color temperature to warm but couldn't for some reason, even though I could change it to one of the cool settings. Is it just me or has anyone else noticed this? And is there a way to adjust the TV to reduce this blue tint?

Thanks to everyone who posts on this forum. I have learned a lot from it. I'm still working my way through this very long (but useful) thread.

And you might have choosen your words a little more carefully before posting. It works both ways Triple-X.

Anyway, I've said what I wanted to say about the set and I'm done with this thread.

--Jerome

YAY!:D

FDB

Do all DLPs still suffer from "bowing". Are lines across the top, bottom or sides of the screen still concave? When watching ESPN, CNN, 4:3 material, 2:35 material etc.; do the lines still bow? Does the LED model suffer from this as well? Thanks!

I dont know if they ALL suffer from bowing. My 61a750 doesnt have any bowing, although it does have the tilt geometry issue.

But during a trip to CC yesterday I saw a 65" Mitsubishi WDY65735 with a bow SO BAD I cant believe it was on display. I mean it was so bad a blind person would have noticed it!

also.. I can now comment on the 67 vs 61 debate, as to whether the frame on the 67 appears to be more rigid.. IMHO it CERTAINLY does. Although I did not have time to stay and compare the PQ from one to the other. but I will definitely being going back to CC to do so!

Hey guys, to get 1930x1080 @ 24p playback, what settings are needed? Is it TV or Blu player settings?

... If I shift my eyes back and forth I can see very distinct RBG colors in the objects ... I read of others seeing the same thing but just wondering how many there were.This sounds like the classic "Rainbow" phenomenon. :eek: Apparently, only a small population of people saw rainbows on the bulb/color wheel based sets and an even smaller segment are susceptible to rainbows with the LED displays. People did find that once you trained yourself to see rainbows they became more apparent. The moral of the story was if you do not normally see rainbows, don't go looking for them. Of course, in your case, you did not "look" for them, it just happened. Some people who initially saw rainbows reported that they disappeared with time. (BTW, you might not want to teach more friends how to see this. ;) )

Hey guys, to get 1930x1080 @ 24p playback, what settings are needed? Is it TV or Blu player settings?Set the Blu-Ray player to output 1920 x 1080p at 24p. The A750s and A650s will automatically detect the signal and display it.

Set the Blu-Ray player to output 1920 x 1080p at 24p. The A750s and A650s will automatically detect the signal and display it.

Thanks. What does this equate to? Smoother panning shots, and stuff like that?

Does 120Hz play into effect here, or does 24p overide that refresh mode and is better? Not sure of the relation here...

Thanks for the help guys...

Do all DLPs still suffer from "bowing". Are lines across the top, bottom or sides of the screen still concave? When watching ESPN, CNN, 4:3 material, 2:35 material etc.; do the lines still bow? Does the LED model suffer from this as well? Thanks!

NO! I have last years model (I lurk here cause its the same TV basically) and my sets geometry is almost perfect. There are lots of people that have no problems with geometry, tilt, or bowing.

http://www.johnkalnin.com/house/images/6187s-geometry-1.jpg
Ok, maybe perfect is a little overstated, but the slight dip in the lower right hand corner is only noticable with that grid up. Regular Tv looks flawless.

Hi Everyone,

I just purchased the 750 at Costco for $1999 (includes stand and 2nd year warranty).....great price. However, I believe I'm seeing 'Hot Spots' when ever I view a dark image on the screen. Thinking that this wasn't right I returned the TV for another one and it's having the same issues. I know in the forum it's been suggested to change the 'LED Adjust' setting to Auto...I will try this. Are the hots spots normal for these tv's or did I just get two lemons? I've attached a picture just incase what I'm talking about isn't actually hot spots(right side of picture)

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Dave

NO! I have last years model (I lurk here cause its the same TV basically) and my sets geometry is almost perfect. There are lots of people that have no problems with geometry, tilt, or bowing.

http://www.johnkalnin.com/house/images/6187s-geometry-1.jpg
Ok, maybe perfect is a little overstated, but the slight dip in the lower right hand corner is only noticable with that grid up. Regular Tv looks flawless.

It also needs moved to the left a little to be on center.

I am totally happy with this set. I am trying to get my setup (HD-DVD, PS3, and DirecTV HR21 into an Onkyo SR875 to the TV) so that I don't keep getting the "Searching for Signal" display so much. I have it set to "Just Scan" but other things in the chain might need to change, too... oh well, fun stuff.

I have everything going through my Onkyo 805, and still get that "searching for signal" whenever I turn the set on, or switch inputs from the receiver. I think it is just a normal HDMI handshake, negotiation thing. I wish it was a bit quicker, but I don't think there is anything i can do to speed that up.

Thanks. What does this equate to? Smoother panning shots, and stuff like that?

Does 120Hz play into effect here, or does 24p overide that refresh mode and is better? Not sure of the relation here...

Thanks for the help guys...Yes... Should give a more film-like appearance to the content.

120 hz is the refresh rate of the display. 24p (1920 x 1080 pixels resolution frames @ 24 progressive frames per second) has to do with the high definition format with which the original "film" was recorded and how the film was then encoded on the Blu-Ray disk. The original film material is thus best reproduced if it can be played back at a multiple of 24 frames per second, such as 120 hz (i.e., 5 x 24 = 120). Optimally, play back at a multiple of 24 hz allows the source or display to just show each frame multiple times instead of adding processing (black frame insertion, frame interpolation, various pull downs) which can introduce artifacts.

search this thread for the answer... before you complain that the thread is 130 pages long, the reason its that long is because the same questions get asked over and over again and then someone has to answer them again and again.

this issue is talked about on every page in here, you didn't even look

? Do you honestly think the average visitor is going to utilize the search engine for a simple question? You could have simply posted a link to a similar question if you wanted to be the message board police. No wonder people get turned off to our hobby. It would have taken as much time to be helpful as it did to post your remark. I didn't realize I needed to search through several hundred posts before I asked my question. One of the things I enjoy about this board is how helpful most people are. I have received phone calls from members when I've had issues in the past. My apologies if I have inconvenienced you in any way. Take care.
P.S. - I bet you get pissed when people drive in the fast lane on the highway too.

Hi Everyone,

I just purchased the 750 at Costco for $1999 (includes stand and 2nd year warranty).....great price. However, I believe I'm seeing 'Hot Spots' when ever I view a dark image on the screen. Thinking that this wasn't right I returned the TV for another one and it's having the same issues. I know in the forum it's been suggested to change the 'LED Adjust' setting to Auto...I will try this. Are the hots spots normal for these tv's or did I just get two lemons? I've attached a picture just incase what I'm talking about isn't actually hot spots(right side of picture)

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Dave

May I ask which costco you got this at? I haven't seen any samsung DLP LED in my local costco. You got the HL 61A750 correct?

Costco was in Canada (AJAX). They also have the 72" (non LED) for 2399.99 (including stand and 2nd year warranty)..Oh, and yes it was the 61A750...hope this helps.


Dave

My bro works at Best Buy and I can get the 67 for $1725 + Tax, and of course we will pick it up at his store. So should I go for it????

Also last minute questions/confirmations before I pull the trigger.

1. Does it have DarkChip4 or 3? I seen in these posts some say yes, some say no, but I'm guessing No. Hopefully I'm wrong.

2. I have a Nvidia 8800GT with 320mb RAM, can I actually use this TV as my monitor and have a resolution of 1920 x 1080 and it look just as good as a LCD or CRT monitor?

That's it, thanks for the help!!!

Is using a 32 inch wide swivel (or stand) for the 67" Samsung a bad idea? Theres going to be about 14" on each side unsupported of the 67" Samsung DLP, which is 60 inches wide.

Does this matter? I am assuming most of the weight is concentrated towards the center, and that the frame is built to allow for some overhang.

The reason is because I want the stand to be at least 3 feet tall since everything here is either high (treadmill) or far away (couch), and the only stands I found are the types for the old heavy CRTs.

I am dying to get the HL67A750. I am just waiting for the prices to go down, however today I heard something which threw a monkey wrench into my plans. A person I work with is best friends with a manger of a Best Buy. He told him that a friend was thinking of buying this set. He told him that they have sold 37 units this month, and 18 of them have come back. At this time I do not know all of the facts. He said there were compatibility problems with bright house and some older dvd players. I hope that somebody in this forum can calm my fears

I am dying to get the HL67A750. I am just waiting for the prices to go down, however today I heard something which threw a monkey wrench into my plans. A person I work with is best friends with a manger of a Best Buy. He told him that a friend was thinking of buying this set. He told him that they have sold 37 units this month, and 18 of them have come back. At this time I do not know all of the facts. He said there were compatibility problems with bright house and some older dvd players. I hope that somebody in this forum can calm my fears

I have followed this thread and have heard no reports of player issues. Most returns come from geometry issues.

My bro works at Best Buy and I can get the 67 for $1725 + Tax, and of course we will pick it up at his store. So should I go for it????



dude.. smack the crap out of yourself. then go get it. I paid that for my 61 after BB matching CC from 1999 to 1899 AND A FREAKIN 10% off coupon , and it was still 1709 for the 61.. a 67 for that price???
no f'in brainer man! matter of fact will you grab me one too!? serious. I will xfer u the money
lol
:Dhttp://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/images/icons/icon14.gif

? Do you honestly think the average visitor is going to utilize the search engine for a simple question? You could have simply posted a link to a similar question if you wanted to be the message board police. No wonder people get turned off to our hobby. It would have taken as much time to be helpful as it did to post your remark. I didn't realize I needed to search through several hundred posts before I asked my question. One of the things I enjoy about this board is how helpful most people are. I have received phone calls from members when I've had issues in the past. My apologies if I have inconvenienced you in any way. Take care.
P.S. - I bet you get pissed when people drive in the fast lane on the highway too.


in the time you spent with your two posts, you could have searched the entire thread, made up your mind and ordered the television.

I have read every page of this thread and I dont even own the TV yet. Youre whining to the wrong person, I hate lazy people that want everyone else to do their work for them. (are you on welfare? ...just a hunch)

My bro works at Best Buy and I can get the 67 for $1725 + Tax, and of course we will pick it up at his store. So should I go for it????

Also last minute questions/confirmations before I pull the trigger.

1. Does it have DarkChip4 or 3? I seen in these posts some say yes, some say no, but I'm guessing No. Hopefully I'm wrong.

2. I have a Nvidia 8800GT with 320mb RAM, can I actually use this TV as my monitor and have a resolution of 1920 x 1080 and it look just as good as a LCD or CRT monitor?

That's it, thanks for the help!!!

tell your bro to give me the same deal!

tell your bro to give me the same deal!

i asked first weazel. ;)

in the time you spent with your two posts, you could have searched the entire thread, made up your mind and ordered the television.

LMAO :D

Hey all,

I'm gonna go to BB later this week to see if I can get the 67A750 for $1999. How do I load up the test grid image that was posted up earlier in this thread? Save it to a USB drive, stick it into the TV, then what? Also, what exactly am I looking for? That the lines are straight (both vertically and horizontally) and the lines are white?

Thanks for the help!

For those keeping score, Amazon has dropped their hl67a750 price again. It's now at $2049.

Well after my second set arrived with issues too, i've decided to return it for a refund.

Sucks because I got such a great deal on this set.

For those keeping score, Amazon has dropped their hl67a750 price again. It's now at $2049.

Nothing better than making a quick 50$. I just ordered my 67 the other day and immeadiately this small price drop happened...Keep it coming Amazon!

Also, I was wondering if anyone knew how accurate the "estimated delivery date" is. My package was shipped on the 9th and it says estimated delivery is on the 17....seems a bit long....especially considering that today, on the 10th, it is in Phoenix, AZ.......and I'm here in Southern California.....seems like i SHOULD have the set by the end of the week, no?

Anyway, I also wanted to say thank you to everyone whose given their input on these tv's.....I like to be an informed buyer, and I think it is safe to say that I am not only an informed buyer, but a masterful buyer at this point.....(especially after reading 130 pages) haha

Nothing better than making a quick 50$. I just ordered my 67 the other day and immeadiately this small price drop happened...Keep it coming Amazon!

Also, I was wondering if anyone knew how accurate the "estimated delivery date" is. My package was shipped on the 9th and it says estimated delivery is on the 17....seems a bit long....especially considering that today, on the 10th, it is in Phoenix, AZ.......and I'm here in Southern California.....seems like i SHOULD have the set by the end of the week, no?

Anyway, I also wanted to say thank you to everyone whose given their input on these tv's.....I like to be an informed buyer, and I think it is safe to say that I am not only an informed buyer, but a masterful buyer at this point.....(especially after reading 130 pages) haha

i also ordered my tv yesterday. i got an email this morning saying it's being shipped and within 24 hours i will receive another email with a more accurate estimated shipping date and tracking info. (how did you find out your set was shipping from AZ?)

I ordered the Sammy 67" from Amazon yesterday right before the price drop. Is there a limit to how many times we can take advantage of the lower pricing within the 30 days? If I apply for the $50 less pricing now and it drops another $50 in a few days, can I get that 2nd lower price, also? I have ordered many things from Amazon in the past but nothing this expensive and never had the price go lower on an item before so I have never tried to do this before.

i hate reading about the killer internet deals after i paid $2199 + tax at my local BB :(

(albeit i have no geometry issues)

still makes me mad tho

Hi, I'm trying to decide between the A650 and the A750 series. I apologize if my question has been discussed previously.

I went to a few local retailers (Best Buy and Circuit City) to look at them. I looked at three A750 sets. It seemed to me that the A750's picture consistently looked bluer than the A650 or Mitsubishi DLPs when comparing side by side. The blue tint was especially apparent on white colors. At first I thought maybe the A750s were on a cool color temperature setting, but when I checked the menu they were all on standard. I changed the mode to dynamic and movie modes but that made no difference. I also tried changing the color temperature to warm but couldn't for some reason, even though I could change it to one of the cool settings. Is it just me or has anyone else noticed this? And is there a way to adjust the TV to reduce this blue tint?

Thanks to everyone who posts on this forum. I have learned a lot from it. I'm still working my way through this very long (but useful) thread.

When in Dynamic or Standard mode you can't set the color temperature to Warm1 or Warm2. But when you change the picture mode to Movie you should be able to, so next time you're in the showroom give Movie mode a try again. Hopefully that will do the trick.

Some people have said the A750 tends to be cooler than the lamp based A650. I have the HL56A650 and it certainly is warm enough on Movie & Warm2. In the showroom I've tried to see differences between the LED and lamp models but they both look real good to me. Hard to say what you'll think once you get it in your viewing room but the odds are you'll be satisfied with either model. So lean toward the technology you feel most comfortable with. Good luck with whichever you choose. I had to go with 56" so that made my decision easy! And I don't regret it though I do wonder how a 2007 56" LED would have worked out.


Edit: Hmmm, just saw this. You may be on to something: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1029686&page=15
On all my gray screens and 100% white screens (GetGray), I cannot get the whole screen to be true white. There is a pure white band all across the center, but top 40% and bottom 30% are bluish tinted. I can change it a little by dropping gamma or fiddling with the "while balance", but can't make the blue go away. My other settings are near to the posted settings from Mike_Pro (movie), and I confirmed these with GetGray.

Any suggestions on what to do to get pure white all across the screen? It doesn't seem too noticeable on movies, but is very obvious on gray or white screens.

rdgrimes is a very knowledgeable fellow who I've seen in other forums so if this is troubling him, there's something to it. I hope someone comes up with an answer for him. Wonder if his set has an individual problem since most people haven't complained about this. 'Course he said you have to look for it.

Edit: Hmmm, just saw this. You may be on to something: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1029686&page=15


rdgrimes is a very knowledgeable fellow who I've seen in other forums so if this is troubling him, there's something to it. I hope someone comes up with an answer for him. Wonder if his set has an individual problem since most people haven't complained about this. 'Course he said you have to look for it.

I changed to movie mode and used the Warm-2 setting which helps a lot, but it's still not completely cured.

I'm equally bothered by the "hot streak" across the screen at your line of sight. I see the same thing on the Mitsui sets, but never saw it on my D-ILA. This streak of pure white and greater brightness just accentuates the things like the blue tint. I almost prefer watching from off vertical axis to avoid that streak. I'm considering tilting the set to create about a 10 degree viewing angle.

i hate reading about the killer internet deals after i paid $2199 + tax at my local BB :(

(albeit i have no geometry issues)

still makes me mad tho

I'm right there with you man. Same situation here.

I ordered the Sammy 67" from Amazon yesterday right before the price drop. Is there a limit to how many times we can take advantage of the lower pricing within the 30 days? If I apply for the $50 less pricing now and it drops another $50 in a few days, can I get that 2nd lower price, also? I have ordered many things from Amazon in the past but nothing this expensive and never had the price go lower on an item before so I have never tried to do this before.

I asked the lady the same question on the phone yesterday...she told me that I could use this price match option as many times as I would like to, as long as it was within the 30 day window.

i also ordered my tv yesterday. i got an email this morning saying it's being shipped and within 24 hours i will receive another email with a more accurate estimated shipping date and tracking info. (how did you find out your set was shipping from AZ?)

I found out by going to the track shipment option under my account....

****Speak of the DEVIL!!!**** It went down another 40$!!!! The 67 inch is now $2007.06

wait until you people who ordered the 67" see how samsung packed these things. When I picked mine up the tv had about 3 inches of no padding, it was just wacking back and forth in the box with a pretty loud thump. I stuck a full sized blanket in there to make it stop on the way home but dam samsung, that packing was pathetic!

My dealer told me he had 3 in a row with broken screens, yikes!

The $2007.06 price is through 6ave, which I'm fairly certain Amazon will not match against. No limit on adjustments within the 30 day period. I've done two within a week of ordering.

My 67" shipped through CEVA on the 3rd, was scheduled for delivery on the 12th, and arrived on the 9th. They called me on the 6th to confirm delivery for the 9th.

wait until you people who ordered the 67" see how samsung packed these things. When I picked mine up the tv had about 3 inches of no padding, it was just wacking back and forth in the box with a pretty loud thump. I stuck a full sized blanket in there to make it stop on the way home but dam samsung, that packing was pathetic!

My dealer told me he had 3 in a row with broken screens, yikes!

its funny.. go look in the owners thread at some of my posts from end of may, and I go off on a tangent about this, and I had not ONE person comment on it SINCE!
I couldnt agree with you more. the packaging is garbage!
i think it plays a major part in a couple of the issues these sets arrive with NAMELY the flimsy frame and offset geometry!

I changed to movie mode and used the Warm-2 setting which helps a lot, but it's still not completely cured.

I'm equally bothered by the "hot streak" across the screen at your line of sight. I see the same thing on the Mitsui sets, but never saw it on my D-ILA. This streak of pure white and greater brightness just accentuates the things like the blue tint. I almost prefer watching from off vertical axis to avoid that streak. I'm considering tilting the set to create about a 10 degree viewing angle.

I have noticed this as well on all white back drops, as well as the hotsteak.
so your not alone. Also , i found myself to be bothered more by the counterclockwise tilt/geo issues more though.

The $2007.06 price is through 6ave, which I'm fairly certain Amazon will not match against. No limit on adjustments within the 30 day period. I've done two within a week of ordering.

My 67" shipped through CEVA on the 3rd, was scheduled for delivery on the 12th, and arrived on the 9th. They called me on the 6th to confirm delivery for the 9th.
That was going to be my question: if Amazon price matched ONLY its own prices or would it with 3rd party dealers, that are ordered through Amazon. But it's sure easy enough; done it twice in three days for a total of $300. Sweet.

Ordered mine late on June 4th, shipped on June 5th, with an expected delivery of June 16th (from Pennsylvania to LA). CEVA called yesterday afternoon to arrange delivery. Took just 4 days. Could have been sitting in front of it right now, but can't take time off from work this week (9am - 1pm delivery window). So I have to wait until Saturday. ARRRGGGH! 5 days of praying it's OK! :D

::shrug:: i got my second price match just fine!

in the time you spent with your two posts, you could have searched the entire thread, made up your mind and ordered the television.

I have read every page of this thread and I dont even own the TV yet. Youre whining to the wrong person, I hate lazy people that want everyone else to do their work for them. (are you on welfare? ...just a hunch)

Yes Genius, I'm on welfare and searching the internet to buy a $2,000 TV set. I guess asking questions in a user "forum" is a dumb idea. My apologies. Congratulations on reading every page in the thread as well. That will sure come in handy when you take the quiz later. It would be extremely helpful to the rest of the "lazy" people on this forum and myself if you could post the rest of your rules on the first page of this site to avoid further issues. Unnecessary postings are an issue in the world today and it makes me proud to see a hero such as yourself making a difference. Keep fighting the good fight.

Quick questions about Red Push on my 67". Picture looks great for the most part, but I have a pretty noticeable red push. Using Avia II, It is showing between +10% and +15%. The Green is showing about -10% and Blue about -15%!

Needless to say, I'd like to tweak this, but I'm not wanting to jump around willy-nilly in the service menu, so does anyone have any suggestions or a starting point? Is there an online version of the service manual?

Thanks for any help!

Don't worry about weazel being on you. A guy asked about the darkchip version, one of those most discussed questions about this TV, on this same page, his only response was to ask for the deal that guy was getting. And he himself asked about hometheatrestore.com not too long ago when that's a topic that's easily covered with a search. Just shrug it off.

Quick questions about Red Push on my 67". Picture looks great for the most part, but I have a pretty noticeable red push. Using Avia II, It is showing between +10% and +15%. The Green is showing about -10% and Blue about -15%!

Needless to say, I'd like to tweak this, but I'm not wanting to jump around willy-nilly in the service menu, so does anyone have any suggestions or a starting point? Is there an online version of the service manual?

Thanks for any help!How to address "red push" depends on the source of the problem. There are some red push issues that are endemic to displays and can not be eliminated. In other cases, maybe...

First, if you are using either of the warm picture modes, these push the white point towards red, which can give a "red push" look to things, especially when a white or light colored background is involved. However, the Warm settings are usually the closest white points to the D65 standard, meaning this is the way it is suppose to look.

Among the fixable, usual suspects for red push are white balance/grey scale tracking and color decoder error. Either problem source can usually be eliminated or at least tamed by a competent professional calibrator.

You can get the red push look if your greys, particularly on the mid to high IRE end, contain too much red. Generally, to actually check and adjust the gray scale tracking, you'll need access to the service menu, a colorimeter of some sort, an appropriate pattern source and know-how, which is available on various threads in this forum. (See sticky threads in Calibration section.) If you want to try to eye-ball a correction, try using the White Balance in the user menu. When I was playing around with this earlier, I noticed that moving it to it's lowest value gave the best across the board compromise for grey scale tracking in Movie Warm 1 mode.

You usually address color decoder error via the color and tint controls. However, most displays only allow correction of the blue decoder. This means you correct blue and hope that red and green also correct somewhat. The A750 & A650 models have a "Blue Only" mode accessible via the user menu that allow some color decoder correction without going into the service menu. Bring up the STMPE split color bars pattern or appropriate color adjustment pattern from the Avia II disk (I assume it's there. I don't have this disk.) Via the user menu, enter the "Blue Only" mode. (I'm not at my display so I can not be more specific.) Use the user menu Color control to get the same color of blue for the Blue and White bars. Use the Tint control to get the same color blue for the cyan and magenta bars. You'll need to go back and forth btwn color and tint adjustments because each could impact the other. (Adjusting color/tint using the "blue filter" and STMPE color bars technique will not work on these units unless you first disable CCA in the service menu.)

If you have a colorimeter, Tom Huffman's sticky thread in the Calibration section gives an alternate method for setting the color decoder that specifically targets red. If you use Tom's technique, CCA should be disabled during the measurements.

Confused? You are not alone. Visit the calibration section for detailed discussions.

Greetings,

I just purchased a 650 DLP from Newegg (~$1750 shipped) and it was delivered yesterday and I set it up last night. I've experienced
a few problems that I've yet to resolve, any help would be appreciated. I went through most of this thread before purchasing.

1) The circular light on the front of the television has never come on? Is this normal?

2) I have a new Samsung 1080P8 upconverting dvd player and connected it via HDMI. It has the "Any+" or whatever its called. The tv finds the player fine and plays (looks amazing) BUT loses signal and goes to black, then shows the picture again, then loses signal, repeat. The timing between it playing and losing signal is not consistent but it never goes more than a minute while playing. I can STOP the dvd and just have the blue "Samsung" screen and it continues this losing signal pattern, so its not the dvd itself. I've used this HDMI cable with a ps3, so I wouldn't think its the cable. I've played with all the settings on both the tv and dvd player and can't seem to find the issue.

3) I've connected a Western Digital Passport hard drive, the tv finds it. When I go to play music it says "Loading" and then after 30 seconds or so the screen goes black, then grey, then makes some mechanical clicking sounds and then goes back to the TV source.

Any help with these issues would be GREATLY appreciated!!!!!

B

If you want to try to eye-ball a correction, try using the White Balance in the user menu. When I was playing around with this earlier, I noticed that moving it to it's lowest value gave the best across the board compromise for grey scale tracking in Movie Warm 1 mode.

Hmm.. I'll have to try that setting on my set. I usually use Warm2. I still need to get out the colorimeter and play with HCFR and see what it looks like.

The A750 & A650 models have a "Blue Only" mode accessible via the user menu that allow some color decoder correction without going into the service menu. Bring up the STMPE split color bars pattern or appropriate color adjustment pattern from the Avia II disk (I assume it's there. I don't have this disk.) Via the user menu, enter the "Blue Only" mode. (I'm not at my display so I can not be more specific.) Use the user menu Color control to get the same color of blue for the Blue and White bars. Use the Tint control to get the same color blue for the cyan and magenta bars. You'll need to go back and forth btwn color and tint adjustments because each could impact the other. (Adjusting color/tint using the "blue filter" and STMPE color bars technique will not work on these units unless you first disable CCA in the service menu.)

Interesting... are you saying that using the Blue Only mode turns off the CCA and lets you adjust the color decoding, and then when you turn it back off it uses these new settings with the CCA to adjust decoding across the board? That would be cool. The blue only mode is so much more convenient that using the filters, but it never occurred to me that it might treat adjustments made in this mode differently that moving tint and color outside of this mode.

Interesting... are you saying that using the Blue Only mode turns off the CCA and lets you adjust the color decoding, and then when you turn it back off it uses these new settings with the CCA to adjust decoding across the board? That would be cool. The blue only mode is so much more convenient that using the filters, but it never occurred to me that it might treat adjustments made in this mode differently that moving tint and color outside of this mode.As I understand it, CCA adjusts the display's color gamut (primary and secondary colors) along the CIE triangle by adding/substracting R,G or B color as determined by the settings in the CCA menu. In adjusting the color or tint using filters, the assumption is that blue is blue only, red is read only, etc. But with the Samsungs, if CCA moved the Blue primary along the CIE triangle then it is no longer "just" blue, there could be red or green added (I do not remember the specific combinations). This is why using filters with CCA active does not work. "Blue only" mode actually turns off the other colors (i.e., red and green), so there is nothing for CCA to add to blue and thus you are looking at the true impact of the color/tint controls.

EDIT: The color/tint controls do the same thing whether in "Blue Only" mode or not. It's what you see with and without filters that differs.

Among the fixable, usual suspects for red push are white balance/grey scale tracking and color decoder error. Either problem source can usually be eliminated or at least tamed by a competent professional calibrator.
Thanks for the detailed reply! I'm looking into those things now. I don't have CCA on and I use the normal color tone, not warm1 (I figured that that would add more of the red I was trying to reduce).

I have access to an Xrite Eye1 color calibrator, so I'll look through the calibration section for info on how to use that on the TV (I've used it on the PC, but there it just makes the changes automatically... not sure how to translate to TV service mode settings).

Thanks again!

dude.. smack the crap out of yourself. then go get it. I paid that for my 61 after BB matching CC from 1999 to 1899 AND A FREAKIN 10% off coupon , and it was still 1709 for the 61.. a 67 for that price???
no f'in brainer man! matter of fact will you grab me one too!? serious. I will xfer u the money
lol
:Dhttp://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/images/icons/icon14.gif

OW! That HURT! :D

OK well I am getting it Thursday, since I make more money then my bro, I had to give him the money so he could put it in his bank account. Only HE can buy it. Hope it turns out to be as good one, I will be replacing a 50" Plasma that only does 1080i, but its still works great, so it will go in my bedroom to replace a 27" SDTV.

I don't mean to bombard the thread, but my issues post fell near the end of the last page and I'd REALLY appreciate it if anyone could take a look at it and give me your thoughts.

B

50 in the bedroom is dope

I went to BB the other day and the salesperson told me they can match any local dealer price but after the price match they won't honor the coupon. They told me either one or the other. Then some other sales person came up and told me that they will give me the stand for free if I pay retail for the tv. Geez!! I might just hold off a little bit longer.

i purchased the Samsung 72 stand through amazon for my 67 because i wasnt thrilled with the limited back paneling the BB stand had to hide the cabling in the back. Just two small rails. keep it in mind when you decide what stand to purchase.

I think this stand will go great with the 61 Inch set. What do you guys think?

http://www.walmart.com/catalog/product.do?product_id=9193534

Russian5, you can control the blue light around the power button from the Plug&Play menu, I think under the External Setting section. I'm not near my set right now but you have choices like always on, always off, on only in standby mode, or on only while viewing.

Can't help you with the other questions...

I bought this shelf for my 67" -
http://www.*******.com/ProductDetails.aspx?id=31750
and it works great. Fit if PERFECT, width-wise. And the glass kinda makes the whole thing "lighter" and less bulky, IMO. I ordered the black but was sent the gray, but now I think the gray looks better (luckily).

I could take a picture of my setup, if anyone wants.

EDIT: (Woops, can't post full link. The item is an OmniMount G-362.)

Hey all,

I'm gonna go to BB later this week to see if I can get the 67A750 for $1999. How do I load up the test grid image that was posted up earlier in this thread? Save it to a USB drive, stick it into the TV, then what? Also, what exactly am I looking for? That the lines are straight (both vertically and horizontally) and the lines are white?

Thanks for the help!

Anyone? :(

Thank you Quentin! I will take a look at that menu this evening!

Save it to a USB drive, stick it into the TV:(
Yup, that's pretty much it. The TV will automatically detect the thumb drive and then you can choose to display the image. Pretty straightforward.

Anyone? :(

Yes, make sure the grid is straight and that there is no tilt. Will it matter though, cause it isn't like your buying that floor model (unless your buying the display model). Save the testing for the TV you buy after you get it home and set up!

Yes, make sure the grid is straight and that there is no tilt. Will it matter though, cause it isn't like your buying that floor model (unless your buying the display model). Save the testing for the TV you buy after you get it home and set up!

Will they let me unbox a new set, test it, and then choose that one as my own? I thought I read that a couple of other people did that. That would be ideal, I think, since I wouldn't be gambling on receiving one of the "good" sets!

Yup, that's pretty much it. The TV will automatically detect the thumb drive and then you can choose to display the image. Pretty straightforward.

Thanks! Can you do me a favor and measure the height of the area in your OmniMount where you put your components? I think the height of the stand is listed at around 16", but I'm interested in the actual area in which a receiver would fit. It looks pretty small from the pictures I've seen - receivers are huge these days!!

Sure, and I'll take a pic of it this evening. I have the following in mine:
Onkyo 875 (left side) - DirecTV HR21, Toshiba HDDVD, PS3 (center) - VHS, upcon DVD, XBOX 306 (right side). The thing has plenty of room in it.

Ok, it's 15" from floor to top surface, and it's 9-7/8" from bottom shelf glass to the frame opening of the top shelf.

Ok, it's 15" from floor to top surface, and it's 9-7/8" from bottom shelf glass to the frame opening of the top shelf.

Thanks again! Would love to see a picture of yours - it looks great in the online photos!

Greetings,

I just purchased a 650 DLP from Newegg (~$1750 shipped) and it was delivered yesterday and I set it up last night. I've experienced
a few problems that I've yet to resolve, any help would be appreciated. I went through most of this thread before purchasing.

1) The circular light on the front of the television has never come on? Is this normal?

2) I have a new Samsung 1080P8 upconverting dvd player and connected it via HDMI. It has the "Any+" or whatever its called. The tv finds the player fine and plays (looks amazing) BUT loses signal and goes to black, then shows the picture again, then loses signal, repeat. The timing between it playing and losing signal is not consistent but it never goes more than a minute while playing. I can STOP the dvd and just have the blue "Samsung" screen and it continues this losing signal pattern, so its not the dvd itself. I've used this HDMI cable with a ps3, so I wouldn't think its the cable. I've played with all the settings on both the tv and dvd player and can't seem to find the issue.

3) I've connected a Western Digital Passport hard drive, the tv finds it. When I go to play music it says "Loading" and then after 30 seconds or so the screen goes black, then grey, then makes some mechanical clicking sounds and then goes back to the TV source.

Any help with these issues would be GREATLY appreciated!!!!!

B




think the first question was already addressed, but if not, go into the user menu and choose external settings. there you will find settings for the circular light.

as far as the cut out from your dvd player, sounds like a bad cable or bad input to me.. I would first try a different HDMI input if you have not already.
followed by trying a different HDMI cable.
If need be you could also try running component cables from the dvd player to the sammy and see what happens... if you try all that and it persists.. I would say issue with the dvd player most likely.

lastly, for your issue with the USB HD, its likely because it may be formatted in NTFS, and not FAT32. The sammy is only meant to be used with flash media USB type devices. It may work if its formatted in FAT32 tho. Its possible that it is in fat32 already and that it may not recognize it for one of the following reasons.. (the below text was copied DIRECTLY from the user manual.. which Might i remind you IS YOUR FRIEND!)
If you enter the WISELINK mode with no USB device connected the message “No external storage device found. Check the
connection status.” will appear. In this case, insert the USB device, exit the screen by pressing the W.LINK button on the
remote control and enter the WISELINK screen again.
➢ PTP(Picture Transfer Protocol) is supported, but MTP(Media Transfer Protocol) is not supported.
➢ The fi le system only supports FAT16/32 (The NTFS fi le system is not supported).
➢ Certain types of USB Digital camera and audio devices may not be compatible with this TV.
➢ Wiselink only supports USB Mass Storage Class devices (MSC). MSC is a Mass Storage Class Bulk-Only Transport device.
Examples of MSC are Thumb drives and Flash Card Readers (Both USB HDD and HUB are not supported.

it specifically says USB HDD not supported. but again, make sure its formatted with FAT32. then there is a chance it will read from it. ALTHOUGH make sure you BACK UP YOUR DATA FIRST! I WARNED U!!!!!!

I bought this shelf for my 67" -
http://www.*******.com/ProductDetails.aspx?id=31750
and it works great. Fit if PERFECT, width-wise. And the glass kinda makes the whole thing "lighter" and less bulky, IMO. I ordered the black but was sent the gray, but now I think the gray looks better (luckily).

I could take a picture of my setup, if anyone wants.

EDIT: (Woops, can't post full link. The item is an OmniMount G-362.)

A pic would be awesome. I'm still debating on my 67" setup.

Thanks for the info Triple-X. Here is an update:

The light I got turned on through the external settings under plug n play. Thanks!

The USB hard drive problem I'm guessing is just due to it not being supported (even so, the mechanical clicking and everything is just weird). The tech also said the memory used is limited to 8 gig. So playing music off of a hard drive is a no go. :(

I called Samsung on the dvd issue. The HDMI cable works fine when hooked up to a ps3 and used in the same HDMI input on the tv. So, it looks like its a problem with the dvd player or with the dvd player and the cable itself. The dvd player does work fine with regular AV cables hooked up. I'll pick up another HDMI cable and see if that helps. I REALLY don't want to spend $20+ to ship a $80 dvd player to Samsung for service. How much quality would I be losing by using regular AV cables as opposed to HDMI???

As for the tv itself. I do have some screen tilt in the lower right corner, on the test grid with the small squares the bottom most line goes from about a quarter inch above screen to going off screen at the left side of the tv. I haven't tried playing with the screen to fix this. It probably would only be noticeable on tickers, I can live with it.

As for the picture, after adjusting the settings I'm fairly happy but its not as good as I hoped. I don't have digital cable until this weekend, so the jury is really out until then. I've played a couple dvds (Mostly the A Night With David Gilmore concert), it looks good but not quite as good as I hoped. The color is outstanding but it still looks a bit noisy, not super crisp and jumping out at me. If anyone has any settings adjustments (I used the ones found earlier in this thread, and also just adjusted the dynamic setting which I think I prefer) or dvds that will show its full capabilities please let me know.

So to sum up, I've solved most of my issues and the remaining ones don't have so much to do with the tv itself. So thankfully it doesn't look like I need to worry about exchanging or servicing.

B

NOTE: After some research it looks like regular AV cables are way below even component in terms of quality, so I guess my critique of the picture should wait until I at least have some component cables in place.

Didn't realize you were talking about red and white standard analog AV cables. They are the worst. S-video is next up the scale, then Component, then HDMI/DVI. Of course in some cases you may not see a discernible difference between component and HDMI/DVI. YMMV ;)

Yeah, I didn't really know AV was different than component. I ordered a new HDMI cable as well as component cables and a digital audio cable. The latter option should work regardless, and be less of a pain than shipping the player anywhere.

Correct me if I'm wrong but AV cables or the W, R, Y cables are also known as composite. Component are R, G, B cables.

Is this correct?

Yes.

hey all i just got my 67a750 and was wonfering why the hdmi cable from my direct tv will not work but component cables will the directv guy is installing right now any help would be great thanks.
:)

Im not quite sure if this is right place for this reply, and i apologize ahead of time... here goes. last year about october i purchased the HLT5076S for about 1399. over the last six months the samsung has sent out service techs for issues with the set. first i was having terrible image flicker, then after the tech replaced nearly all of the internal components and the screens (8th visit!) i now have these little mushroom shaped "ghosts" on my tv. the real issue is this, i have already gotten them to approve the exchange, and they are replacing it with the HL50A650. but, the discussions on this thread lead me to think that a slightly bigger set would be a good idea. my question is in three parts. being as the price of a bigger set is now lower then i payed for my set last year, i was thinking samsung could upgrade my tv...am i being childish about this? secondly, if thats not an option, does anyone have experience paying the difference for an upgrade? lastly, as far as my manufacturers warranty, will the new set have a full year? sorry this is so long winded, ive just had a really hard time with this whole situation. thanks

hey all i just got my 67a750 and was wonfering why the hdmi cable from my direct tv will not work but component cables will the directv guy is installing right now any help would be great thanks.
:)
I don't have direct tv, but it may be that you need to set up your direct tv to output its video (and maybe audio too) over the HDMI versus component.
I would think the direct tv installer would be able to resolve this issue easily. Also, you need to set up (or select) HDMI as your source on your TV.

thanks for the info the tv guy just left he was not to bright . the first time he tried it would not work at all and he said it was my tv i said no guess what come to find out he put the card in backwards :mad: thanks again

I got this stand from costco online and I didn't put on the glass doors because I hate glass doors but the stand is very sturdy and me likey! It has a drawer in the middle with a pllace for a smaller center ch also it was $200 w00t!!
http://img117.imageshack.us/img117/8492/imgp1119kd8.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
http://img117.imageshack.us/img117/8492/imgp1119kd8.318125a52d.jpg (http://g.imageshack.us/g.php?h=117&i=imgp1119kd8.jpg)

Correct me if I'm wrong but AV cables or the W, R, Y cables are also known as composite. Component are R, G, B cables.

Is this correct?
Basically correct, but a single Yellow cable is used for composite video. A trio of typically red, green, and blue cables is usually used for component video (referring to this as RGB is somewhat misleading as that could be mistaken for another video format that uses a different colorspace). Another somewhat common video format is RGBHV which usually uses red, green, blue, white, and yellow cables (the 3 primary video colors plus horizontal and vertical sync). The cable colors obviously don't really matter other than making it easier for people to follow how the system is hooked up - just make sure the correct type of cable is being used.

The red and white cables (again, usually with RCA connectors) are used for right and left analog audio and have absolutely nothing to do with the video connectors - these can be used with any of the above video formats (or on their own).

Basically correct, but a single Yellow cable is used for composite video. A trio of typically red, green, and blue cables is usually used for component video (referring to this as RGB is somewhat misleading as that could be mistaken for another video format that uses a different colorspace). Another somewhat common video format is RGBHV which usually uses red, green, blue, white, and yellow cables (the 3 primary video colors plus horizontal and vertical sync). The cable colors obviously don't really matter other than making it easier for people to follow how the system is hooked up - just make sure the correct type of cable is being used.

The red and white cables (again, usually with RCA connectors) are used for right and left analog audio and have absolutely nothing to do with the video connectors - these can be used with any of the above video formats (or on their own).

Thanks for clarifying. My A/V receiver is a few years old and is not HDMI compatible. I was thinking as far as hooking things up I would do the following... Cable box to TV via HDMI for video, Cable Box to A/V receiver via optical cable. I suppose this choice of connection for all other components as well (DVD, Gaming system, etc.) Thoughts?

Ok, here's a couple of shots of my 67" setup and the OmniMount G-362 stand.♠

http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k90/elfman12/stand1.jpg
http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k90/elfman12/stand2.jpg

Thanks for clarifying. My A/V receiver is a few years old and is not HDMI compatible. I was thinking as far as hooking things up I would do the following... Cable box to TV via HDMI for video, Cable Box to A/V receiver via optical cable. I suppose this choice of connection for all other components as well (DVD, Gaming system, etc.) Thoughts?
I believe your plan is correct, and you may also have digital coax audio ports on your cable box, dvd, and receiver to use as well.

elfman12 - is your center channel sitting right on top of the TV or is the support hidden?

elfman12 - is your center channel sitting right on top of the TV or is the support hidden?
It's on an Omnimount CCH1 top shelf, works with my Klipsch center speaker, and leaves room for other stuff. (I haven't done my wire management cleanup yet - haha)

http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k90/elfman12/stand3.jpg
http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k90/elfman12/stand4.jpg

Didn't realize you were talking about red and white standard analog AV cables. They are the worst. S-video is next up the scale, then Component, then HDMI/DVI. Of course in some cases you may not see a discernible difference between component and HDMI/DVI. YMMV ;)

Actually worst would be RF cable but hopefully no one uses those anymore :)

woo I though it was sitting on the tv! that would have been a interesting situation:
"bow to me young samsung! ok thats enough, o crap " lol

During the past two years, I have spent a reasonable amount of time trying to decide on an HDTV for our family room. We sit 12' from the TV. I wanted a set no less than 65" on the diagonal. RPTVs seemed to me to be the best value in large screen sizes by a wide margin. Yes, I did consider the 65" LCDs and plasmas, but finally decided on a RPTV. I did not want the bulb and color wheel variety, so that forced me to wait for the Samsung 67" LED DLP (or wait longer for the Mits laser set). The list price on this 67"er was less than $2500, which I would be happy to pay for a good HDTV. Even after the various negative reports of bowing, tilting, and a few other things, I was heartened by the number of owners happy with their sets.

I took the plunge and received the HL67A750 from Crutchfield one week ago. All experiences with this set have been great! The only geometry issue on my set based on test patterns is that the image should move 1/8" to the right, which causes no problem for regular viewing. The HD images from both DIRECTV and blu-ray (Samsung BD-P1500) are just amazing: detailed, colorful, and bright (at least bright enough for me). There is some slight image degredation at horizontal angles past ~50 degrees or so, but very tolerable to me. The frame seems sturdy enough; ie, not flimsy.

The bottom line is that I am extremely happy with this HDTV. Friends who have seen this set cannot believe the PQ and the price. My only regret is that Samsung does not make a larger LED-DLP set with a 75" diagonal. Based on the HDTV I received, I would definitely recommend this set to anyone. I hope these comments help anyone sitting on the fence like I used to be.

the geometry/bowing issue is a non-issue if you purchase from brick and mortar store. just go in with a thumb drive and fire it up. its an internet/blind purchase phenomenon that can be avoided by buying locally.

which directv code do you use to program the 67 into the dtv H(R)21 remote - does anyone know?

I got this stand from costco online and I didn't put on the glass doors because I hate glass doors but the stand is very sturdy and me likey! It has a drawer in the middle with a pllace for a smaller center ch also it was $200 w00t!!
http://img117.imageshack.us/img117/8492/imgp1119kd8.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
http://img117.imageshack.us/img117/8492/imgp1119kd8.318125a52d.jpg (http://g.imageshack.us/g.php?h=117&i=imgp1119kd8.jpg)

Looks like that your a gamer.....do you notice --any lag-- in the game setting

Costco was in Canada (AJAX). They also have the 72" (non LED) for 2399.99 (including stand and 2nd year warranty)...

DaveWhich 72" model was at that Costco?
The current 72A650, or last years HL-T7288?

I recently purchashed the Samsung HL56A650 and the Samsung 1080P upscaling DVD player I couldn't be happier. What a great piece of hardware! Over the air HD signals look outstanding and the DVD player helps movies look terrific. Sometimes too much movement on the screen can make me start to feel ill, the picture looks so real! Band of Brothers on a 1080P 56" is staggering.

I have had no problems with this unit - no banding issues, no power issues, etc. The TV needed very little calibration from the factory settings. I was considering an LED unit but I ended up talking with a Mitsubishi rep at a local retail store and after I grilled him with questions he admitted that except for the bulb replacement an LED offers few advantages for the price (and price was my bottom line). I don't mind the 10 second warm up and the fan for the bulb is so quiet I don't notice it. I also have not noticed any sort of rainbow issues.

If you can afford it a 750 LED is probably the way to go but I wanted the most bang for my buck. I bought the TV for $1299 including tax and shipping from a camera store in NY. They shipped to AZ in 5 business days. I couldn't be happier with a 56" screen for $1300!!!

Add one more person into the "very pleased with my Sammy DLP" column.

Just letting you know, I was offered the upgrade to my current TV through Samsung @ $300.. I asked if I could go through Ultimate Electronics where I bought it, and they did the same exchange for half the price.. Don't know how that is possible but..

Looks like that your a gamer.....do you notice --any lag-- in the game setting

I am also a game, I haven't noticed any lag on my PS3 at all.. I play rock band so I would notice if there was.. Also, I have hooked up my laptop to the TV just to see the biggest computer monitor I have ever seen.. :) No lag between the mouse and screen at all. I would have to say that Samsung did a great job with a very powerful image processor.

I am seriously considering getting the 67" however, I have only a limited number of HD channels through comcast. I majority of our TV viewing still uses the standard definition channels. Any comments on how the picture quality will be. I am concerned it will be subpar.I currently have an old 50" Toshiba RPTV.

Sometimes too much movement on the screen can make me start to feel ill, the picture looks so real! Band of Brothers on a 1080P 56" is staggering.


Just wait till it comes out on Blu Ray! I Just watched BoB recently from scratch when a friend let me borrow it. Rewatching it made me wonder if it was to be on blu ray, so I searched and sure enough, its coming around sept-nov i believe!
YAY!

I am seriously considering getting the 67" however, I have only a limited number of HD channels through comcast. I majority of our TV viewing still uses the standard definition channels. Any comments on how the picture quality will be. I am concerned it will be subpar.I currently have an old 50" Toshiba RPTV.

standard def will drive you nuts. directv is the way to go.

Ok either I just experienced a Failure in my 56A650 or something else happened. Does anyone know if adding a ir2bt device for the PS3 affect the samsung in any way? The reason why I asked this my TV was working fine with the IR this afternoon and the postal man delivered my new spanking ir2bt for my PS3. So I setup the device like the instructions and now noticed that my TV isn't accepting IR commands anymore. I've moved the ir2bt out of the picture but now still not working with the standard remote (tried new batteries) nor my harmony one. I've called Samsung for a service tech but could it be something else?

I've played with my 650 quite a bit more and got my digital cable hooked up this morning. The picture is fantastic, BUT... is it just me or is the screen slightly frosted? Most noticeably on solid non moving colors you can "see" the screen, as the content moves you notice the noise on the screen stays put. Hopefully that is making sense.

Is this normal? It seems the picture would be more crystal clear with a perfectly clear screen.

Thoughts?

My immediate guess is the so called "Silk Screen" effect. This is attributed to the brightness of the display combined with the high magnification inherent to the screen used on an RPTV display. It is "normal," but can be reduced to insignificance in most cases by a proper calibration. (For some reason, I always see it to a limited extent on certain non-HD channels). The first step in reducing the effect is to lower the contrast and/or avoid dynamic mode. The effect is generally less prominent using movie mode.

Thanks for the reply (I'm in MI too).

"Silk Screen" does accurately describe it. It probably doesn't help that I'm only about 7 feet from the display. I'm in Standard Mode watching HD. I might toy with the settings more but everything looks very good for the most part, I suppose I just wanted to make sure it was normal. I had a bit of dry wall work done in the room before the TV arrived, at first I was a bit worried some of that dust got inside the TV but I'm sure that is not the case.

Thanks.

On Samsung 61 DLP LED, I have read this thread quite a bit, done lots of reasearch. The Samsung HL61A750 seems like the best deal. Picked it up on Friday Costco Winnipeg 4 in each store($1999). Pretty unusual for Costco to have the latest released TV but they do! Guess nobody wants RPTV's in their store(Samsung last RPTV maker left -- Mits not in Canada)

No HD Box yet.....but pretty awesome on the HD channels being cast on SD.

Only complaint is the FREE Stand (Made by Pinnacle)....shelves limited to 50 pounds!!! will have to reinforce the bottom one....not deep enought to keep receiver from hanging over the edge.

3 yr warranty (2 From Coscto) and extra yr when purchased on AMEX card!!!!!!!!

God Bless Costco !!!!!!!!!!

Ok either I just experienced a Failure in my 56A650 or something else happened. Does anyone know if adding a ir2bt device for the PS3 affect the samsung in any way? The reason why I asked this my TV was working fine with the IR this afternoon and the postal man delivered my new spanking ir2bt for my PS3. So I setup the device like the instructions and now noticed that my TV isn't accepting IR commands anymore. I've moved the ir2bt out of the picture but now still not working with the standard remote (tried new batteries) nor my harmony one. I've called Samsung for a service tech but could it be something else?

Ok this is weird I came back from last night hanging out with friends and we watched TV. The TV came on ok with the IR code for powertoggle however it didn't shutdown when the same command was issued. This morning I decided to watch the Superman blu-ray I just got on the PS3 and everything started up fine in the right order with the Logitech One and on my remote I have a powertoggle soft button so I can pause the movie and turn the TV off for a bit not to burn the image in. Now that is working no problems also... weird any ideas? I am going to play with it some more today and the service tech is supposed to call me monday for a call and I'll see how its acting then.

This morning I decided to watch the Superman blu-ray I just got on the PS3 and everything started up fine in the right order with the Logitech One and on my remote I have a powertoggle soft button so I can pause the movie and turn the TV off for a bit not to burn the image in.DLP isn't subject to burn-in.

I'm not sure if this has been asked or not or if it matters to anyone else, but I am wondering if owners of the HL61A750 could answer a question for me.

The depth of the unit is 15 inches. Where would you say the weight lies? To the front or the back? Is there a gap at the front where there is no weight?

The reason I ask is that I have a built in bookshelf that has a depth of 12 inches. I would really like to get this set without having to do some major workaround. As long as the weight of the set is not at the front I think I should be ok.

Thanks!

DLP isn't subject to burn-in.

I know but its habit, I used to own an old sony and just got used to it.

I'm not sure if this has been asked or not or if it matters to anyone else, but I am wondering if owners of the HL61A750 could answer a question for me.

The depth of the unit is 15 inches. Where would you say the weight lies? To the front or the back? Is there a gap at the front where there is no weight?

The reason I ask is that I have a built in bookshelf that has a depth of 12 inches. I would really like to get this set without having to do some major workaround. As long as the weight of the set is not at the front I think I should be ok.

Thanks!
Doesn't seem to be front heavy, seems in the middle. Is your shelf enclosed on the back... That is where the vents are and the manual says 4" clearance for air movement....

Looks like that your a gamer.....do you notice --any lag-- in the game setting

nope no lag at all, I love to pull the chair about 5 feet from the tv and use the ms wheel and play grid LOL you start to feel as if you're really racing!!

Doesn't seem to be front heavy, seems in the middle. Is your shelf enclosed on the back... That is where the vents are and the manual says 4" clearance for air movement....

Yeah, no problem there. The 12 inches is to where the arms of the bookshelves start. I probably have at least another foot or so from that.

Sounds like this might work for me.

Taz, Did you go to the Costco on Regent or Keneston? I was in the Regent location today. Just wondering if they had them at Keneston too.

Elf, Great pictures!!...I'm debating whether to go with this TV...I have the Mits WD-65833 and I'm bored..thinking maybe the LED based DLP will add a little excitement to the theater.

I'm bored... Whoa! The double whammy -- dangerous for both your mental and financial health. :)

Elf, Great pictures!!...I'm debating whether to go with this TV...I have the Mits WD-65833 and I'm bored..thinking maybe the LED based DLP will add a little excitement to the theater.
Thanks. This TV would be a great choice. I continue to be amazed with the PQ as I check out new BR discs and DirecTV HD programs. It's literally breath taking at times. I have some color tweaking to do this week to perfect that part of it, but detail superb right outta the box.

DonB, Your right..the worst of all evils....boredom and money...I keep thinking there is a BETTER picture than what I have...I really do think it's a sickness LOL

I think this stand will go great with the 61 Inch set. What do you guys think?

http://www.walmart.com/catalog/product.do?product_id=9193534

hmm.. 44"? maybe.. not too bad looking.

I just bought my 61" set and was looking for something simple as a stand. I do not need to put equipment below it really. maybe just a bench of some sort. could 12" high work? My eyes are 36" sitting in my sofa.

Howdy guys,

This is my first post...I just wanted to say thank you very much for all of your advice and help. I finally decided to buy the HL61A750 and it will be delivered in about 6-10 hours from BB. I got them to price match my local Frys raincheck quote for 1699 + tax... tried to use those coupons from USPS address change booklet, but the computer didnt take anything from the overall total. BOO! I did get free delivery with home installation from the Geek squad, so I hope everything will be smooth sailing when I wake up. I also got my usb thumb drive ready for the geometry issues and the firmware ready updates. I also bought the BUSH Universal stand for 60" TVs - Black; I already assembled it and am waiting to sit my new baby on the stand! Wish me luck!

For anyone that happens to live in Houston, TX... I still have my Frys 1699 price quote for a raincheck... and it expires JUNE 25th 2008! So yeah, I am willing to give it away if u call me at 281.948.8698 and let me know first! Good night guys, and I will post pics ASAP iff everything goes well.

I am seriously considering getting the 67" however, I have only a limited number of HD channels through comcast. I majority of our TV viewing still uses the standard definition channels. Any comments on how the picture quality will be. I am concerned it will be subpar.I currently have an old 50" Toshiba RPTV.
I have the 61A750 using a HD-DVR cable box, and the SD PQ is surprisingly excellent. I have 3 other HDTVs - 1 plasma and 2 LCDs, and the SD PQ on all of them is not good at all.

Yeah, no problem there. The 12 inches is to where the arms of the bookshelves start. I probably have at least another foot or so from that.

Sounds like this might work for me.

Taz, Did you go to the Costco on Regent or Keneston? I was in the Regent location today. Just wondering if they had them at Keneston too.
Huffer,

Obviously you seen it at Regent, Just phone a Costco CS Desk ask for item 244061 they can advise, or ask @ any location. Kenaston ph# 487-5100.

SO i purchased a 50A560 3 weeks back. ANd overall enjoy it. One thing that i'm noticing is that some of the HD channels. the picture isn't as crisp as i would have liked. I have FIOS, which seems good on some of the channels. The other troubling issue i have, is on the standard Def channels, the picture is, not good. it seems to be fuzzy and not as crisp as i would have hoped for. Now, i haven't done any "configuring" to the box as i'm not sure where to start. Does anyone have any suggestions on where i can start?

I have been working with Hd CD Tv's for a couple of years, and I though that an LCD Tv would be my next purchase. A guy at work had the Samsung DLP with a color wheel and he had the bulb replaced 3 times. He sold it and bought a new LED DLP, and told me how great it was. I then saw an article on how MIT designed the LED engine used in the new 2008 Samsung DLP.
I got a deal from Amazon to buy any of a huge selection of HD Tv's and get it for two years interest free if I apply for their credit. i BOUGHT THE 2008 Samsung 61" LED DLP, and I have to say that LCD can't touch it for best picture. There are some good looking Plasma TV's, but I don't want anything that can have a pixel blow out. I questioned Samsung on their warranty for LCD HD TV and pixel burnout, and they said that it depends on where the pixel is, how old the TV is, and a few other variables. The Samsung tech told me to checkout the new LED DLP line. All pointers took me to the samsung LED DLP, and man'O'man is it one great TV. granted. you can't hang it on a wall very easily, but after that, the picture, any picture on the Samsung LED DLP is beatiful to see. Don't take my word for it, go to a Circuit City, or Best Buy and do a side by side. However, you must know what a great picture looks like before you can judge the TV.
Anyone who has one, already knows how great they are. I caught the Who, live at the Isle of Wight last night, on MTHD, and I was blown away about the sound and picture. Thank god for my HD Tivo, sent by the gods to please Tv junkies everywhere. I sit 12 feet from my 61" TV, it's a bedroom TV, and I feel like I am at the concert, the people are nearly life sized on that screen. the only thing that could be better is the 72" model of the same TV.
Can anyone who has this Tv, who also has the Samsung Blueray player hooked to it, give me any input on weather I should go with Samsungs player, or go with one of the Sony models? The samsung looked like it has more bang for the buck, but bang isn't all that's important. Joe

I sit 12 feet from my 61" TV, it's a bedroom TV, and I feel like I am at the concert, the people are nearly life sized on that screen. the only thing that could be better is the 72" model of the same TV.


Don't you mean 67" :D

i sit 12 from my 67. its nice but theres room for growth :)

definately happy with the size of the 67 but i wouldnt say its big or too big but thats just me.

i sit 12 from my 67. its nice but theres room for growth :)

definately happy with the size of the 67 but i wouldnt say its big or too big but thats just me.

damn, I'm still trying to figure if I want the 61 or 67 and im back 12 feet as well...

no question in my mind between the two: 67

damn, I'm still trying to figure if I want the 61 or 67 and im back 12 feet as well...

If you can afford it, go 67". Twelve feet is definitely enough for a 67". Better to go bigger now than to go 61" and regret it later!