I'm about 10ft. away. Still go with a 67", or would the 61" suffice? Isn't the 67" considerably deeper?

I'm about 10ft. away. Still go with a 67", or would the 61" suffice? Isn't the 67" considerably deeper?

According to the User manual:

For 61" you should be at least 7.2 feet away from TV

For 67" you should be at least 8.0 feet away from TV

http://myhometheater.homestead.com/viewingdistancecalculator.html

For 67" the rec distance is about 8'

"That TV is too big" is a sentence that is only spoken by a jealous friend or neighbor!

We sit 12-12.5 ft back as well. Moved from a 56" DLP to the 61" for a couple weeks to the 67". It's a good fit for 10+ feet for sure. Wonder how many would have silk screen effect from closer in...I can see it occasionally at 12ft...but it's not that bothersome to me.

SO i purchased a 50A560 3 weeks back. ANd overall enjoy it. One thing that i'm noticing is that some of the HD channels. the picture isn't as crisp as i would have liked. I have FIOS, which seems good on some of the channels. The other troubling issue i have, is on the standard Def channels, the picture is, not good. it seems to be fuzzy and not as crisp as i would have hoped for. Now, i haven't done any "configuring" to the box as i'm not sure where to start. Does anyone have any suggestions on where i can start?

Not all channels use high definition cameras giving a noticeable difference in quality

Hello, I have another question in regards to the 61". When you look straight on at the TV it looks like there is space on either side where the display extends past the "guts" of the TV (so to speak).

Is that correct?

If so and the width of the entire TV is 55 inches, can someone tell me what the width of just the "gut's" portion is?

Thanks, I hope that that made sense. I wish I could find a picture of this TV from an overhead view. I just can't find one on the net.

Just did a quick measurement for you on my 61". Measured from the front at its widest is 54.5 inches, measured on the top at its widest its 54 and 3/4.

Thanks Russian. Is that measuring the screen, or the internal parts of the TV?

The reason I ask is because it looks like when you look straight on at the TV that the screen extends wider than the internal part of the TV. I can potentially place this set on a bookshelf and need to know if the internal parts of the TV can fit in between the bookshelves.

I don't know where to find the 61a750 in Canada, All I can track down is a 56" 89 series from last year. is the 7 series that much of a step up?

Try to get it from Amazon. they have it, but I'm not sure if they will ship it to Canada. I know it ships from Ohio, and I got it three days after it shipped. They brought it in, set it up, programmed some channels, tested the remote, asked me if I was satisfied, and left after I signed. Great service.

Joe

Are you refering to how deep the set is, from front to back? or how wide it is , from left to right?

Joe


Hello, I have another question in regards to the 61". When you look straight on at the TV it looks like there is space on either side where the display extends past the "guts" of the TV (so to speak).

Is that correct?

If so and the width of the entire TV is 55 inches, can someone tell me what the width of just the "gut's" portion is?

Thanks, I hope that that made sense. I wish I could find a picture of this TV from an overhead view. I just can't find one on the net.

That is measuring the entire width of the tv, screen and the outside area.

If you look directly down on the television, from the front viewable side of the screen the sides angle out about a quarter inch, thats why my measurements are wider.

Something like this:

\_____________/

Try to get it from Amazon. they have it, but I'm not sure if they will ship it to Canada. I know it ships from Ohio, and I got it three days after it shipped. They brought it in, set it up, programmed some channels, tested the remote, asked me if I was satisfied, and left after I signed. Great service.

Joe

Amazon's Canadian site doesn't sell electronics :(, and the TV is shipped using Amazons own white glove service, so I don't think they'll do it. Maybe I'll call to find out. (Samsung doesn't even list these TVs on their Canadian Website!)

massimj: You're right, what he is asking for isnt exactly clear.

From his original post it looks like he means the screen plus the outer frame (total width), which is what I measured.

Product Dimensions: 54.8 x 14.4 x 37.8 inches ; 70.1 pounds

This is from Samsung. Also, there is no other measurement, TV's are not like when you ask someone about their weight and they say that they weigh such and such, depending on what they ate, or what they wear. The widest part of the TV is 54.8 inches.

The only effect I get from my Samsung DLP LED Tv is >AWESOME!< no matter where I sit.
If they could hang on a wall like an LCD, or Plasma, they would be King of the big screen TV world. If it were judged by picture, it is King in my book. Only Plasma can touch it in picture quality, but all the other short comings of Plasma, have pushed it off of my want list a long time ago. The best any LCD can look is in its default resolution. Lastly, just like audio, unless you know what you are looking for, most people couldn't tell a great TV from an average TV. I exclude the majority of the members in this group, that is why I always come to the AVS forum to find what is HOT, and what is NOT.

We sit 12-12.5 ft back as well. Moved from a 56" DLP to the 61" for a couple weeks to the 67". It's a good fit for 10+ feet for sure. Wonder how many would have silk screen effect from closer in...I can see it occasionally at 12ft...but it's not that bothersome to me.

Sorry guys, I realize I may not be clear. I just thought from the looks of the set on the net that from a top down view this set might be tapered a bit towards the back.

Sort of like when you look at an old CRT TV from the top down it's not a box shape but rather screen at the front is usually wider than the rear portion because it's tapered as it goes back.

Don't worry about it though, I will have to check in person.

Thanks anyway.

If they could hang on a wall like an LCD, or Plasma, they would be King of the big screen TV world..

All hail the king:
http://www.solidsignal.com/prod_display.asp?prod=DLP-2&main_cat=12&source=googleps

Just got the 67a750 today. Moving my HL6187 to another room. Gotta love the Sammy's. I'm sure this has been asked and answered but what tweaking has anyone done to the 67a750 from the factory settings. All I have changed is from normal to Cool1. I'm not lookng for exact calibration but wonder if there are some small changes that will improve an already great picture. Thanks

Just got the 67a750 today. Moving my HL6187 to another room. Gotta love the Sammy's. I'm sure this has been asked and answered but what tweaking has anyone done to the 67a750 from the factory settings. All I have changed is from normal to Cool1. I'm not lookng for exact calibration but wonder if there are some small changes that will improve an already great picture. Thanks
Congrats. I just got my 67 on Saturday and I'm loving it!!

Great settings info in the owners' thread here (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1029686).

kidkit

They have the 61a750 in costco in Canada, some carry the 67a750. Also if you are in Ontario Badboy has the 67a750.

Mike

Thanks Mike, I've only looked on their website (and saw a bunch of Olevias... yeck). I'll have to pop in to the costco in town and see if they have it.

kidkit

They have the 61a750 in costco in Canada, some carry the 67a750. Also if you are in Ontario Badboy has the 67a750.

Mike
Any idea when costco in the U.S. will start carrying the 67a750?

After over a month of reading about the 61a750 and then 67a750, wringing my hands, looking and re-looking, I finally decided to pull the trigger while watching a CWS game the other night. Bought the 67a750 yesterday at a local Circuit City for $2200 - before tax. I could've gotten a better deal online, obviously, but the extra money isn't killing me considering the ancient TV I'm upgrading from, the quicker delivery time, and with the potential issues I wanted to have someone I could get face-to-face with.

Took delivery this morning. It's ridiculously large once inside. I almost started laughing when they brought it in. The width is one thing, the height is what's really striking. The TV this is replacing was a 47 inch, and this thing looks for all the world like it's twice as big.

They hooked it up to a source, were in a huge rush, I didn't have time to run through any test patterns, just flipped to a news channel with a ticket to check out the bowing and tilt and off they went.

After they left I channel surfed a bit and programmed my remote. SD cable from 6 or 7 feet out looks fine. If you stand right up next to the TV it'll look unimpressive, obviously. Screen uniformity before 6 feet or so can be distracting at almost any angle, for example angling the TV toward my couch and sitting at the end closest to the TV. Back by 10 feet or more the screen fills up and out really nicely. My current setup gives me 8 to 10 feet of viewing distance (I'm moving soon to a location where viewing distance will be more appropriate), and if someone was tempted to put this in a really small apartment or room I'd be more concerned about this issue than image clarity at that distance.

HD content is silly good looking. I haven't tried Blueray yet.

When I was done grinning like a little kid, especially at the HD content, I decided to load up the grid image available elsewhere in these threads. A couple of issues:

1. The left-side lines were on target, but the right side was raised noticably at the corners. Again, didn't see this in looking at the images, but noticable on the test grid. I performed the Magic Push/Pull maneuver (mine was actually a slight pull) described in previous posts and it corrected to essentially perfect. I pushed on it a bit and it went back to roughly out of whack. Pulled on it once more and it was back to normal. I've left it sitting for a few hours and it doesn't seem to get back out of whack on its own. Whatever position you push or pull it into, it seems to rest there. Clearly if you pick it up and move it this flexes the case, and you'd probably have to 'fix' it this way again, but it works. And to be clear, I'm literally talking about a very light touch - you don't have to grab or shove or apply much pressure at all, I'd compare it to pushing a key on your keyboard.

2. On the test grid, the lines in the center third of the screen (roughly) are all white. As you move to the right they develop a slight red hue on one side and a blue-ish hue on the other of each line. As you move to the left, by the time you reach the left edge of the screen there's a fairly strong red hue and a slight blue hue, this involves at least the left 15% of the screen. Is this "banding" or "convergence"? I've read these terms used to apply to several different situations, I'm not sure exactly what to call it, not am I sure if there's anything that can be done about it. This red hue is not really expanding the size of the line, it's more like a halo over a portion of the line, it's hard to describe. In fact, when I first look at it I notice it only mildly, as I look more it becomes more pronounced. On my old Panasonic CRT projection unit this was the type of thing that could be adjusted within reason, but I'm not sure what if anything can be done here, or if it even needs to be.

3. Interestingly, in 4:3 there is what looks to be a slight slanting in of the image on both sides from the top to the bottom. Not tilted, just a bit narrower at the bottom than at the top. However, the test grid jpg itself does not show this distortion at all, and I half suspect it's at least in part an optical illusion due to the height of the screen, viewing angle and the other vertical lines nearby (corner of the recessed wall where the TV sits, the TV's own frame, etc).

Nothing I've seen would be noticable if I wasn't looking for it, except of course the small geometric imperfection with the test grid that can be corrected. Of course, I've only had one TV over 27 inches before, so what I'm seeing may drive other people crazy, but at least in terms of the dreaded geometry issues I'm not seeing anything that concerns me. The red hue around the left side of the lines in the test grid worry me, mainly because the AVS forums have left me with the impression they may or may not be something to worry about.

So far, with just a few hours of use so far, I'm more than happy enough with the TV that if the red hue issue on the test grid is something other than part and parcel of a TV like this I'm willing to go through the exchange process. The colors are gorgeous and the TV seems plenty, almost perfectly, bright.


(BTW, the base appears to be no more than 40 inches in width. I've got this sitting on a 43.5 inch width stand with a 150 pound weight capacity until a new stand arrives, and it's working fine.)

Just wait till it comes out on Blu Ray! I Just watched BoB recently from scratch when a friend let me borrow it. Rewatching it made me wonder if it was to be on blu ray, so I searched and sure enough, its coming around sept-nov i believe!
YAY!

Ahh, that may be the straw that breaks the camel's back as far as a Blu Ray purchase. . . now the key is how to convince the wife that the Blu Ray + Band of Brothers Blu Ray (plus potentially the Godfather films in September) is a need not a want. :p

the base appears to be no more than 40 inches in width. I've got this sitting on a 43.5 inch width stand with a 150 pound weight capacity until a new stand arrives, and it's working fine.)

Can you get an exact measurement of the base? The TV weights less than 100 so that stand should work.

If the base is around 40 then I could put it on a 32" stand, with a supporting plank of 40". Need to re-think everything now. :D

:):):)big river has a new low price on the 61a750
:cool::cool::cool::cool:wow thats cheap

so i finally got my 61a750 and amazingly the tv came with great geometry! this is my first dlp, but unless my eyes decieve me, i think i have perfect geometry. i will post pics later when i get a chance. until then, i had a dumb question... if i have hdmi connection from my laptop that plays blue ray, dont i just hook up the the dlp tv with a hdmi cable connected to my laptop? for ex. the hdmi input 1 is connected to my laptop via a hdmi cable, but my tv does not receive any signal. i even tried the hdmi3/dvi connection but still to no avail. and yes i have even trying switching "screen/monitors" on my laptop...can someone please help try to resolve this issue? i would like to post some blue ray pics and share with you guys. overall im happy so far with this awesome tv!

... if i have hdmi connection from my laptop that plays blue ray, dont i just hook up the the dlp tv with a hdmi cable connected to my laptop? for ex. the hdmi input 1 is connected to my laptop via a hdmi cable, but my tv does not receive any signal. i even tried the hdmi3/dvi connection but still to no avail. and yes i have even trying switching "screen/monitors" on my laptop...can someone please help try to resolve this issue?
In setting up the TV, did you select HDMI1 as the input source?

well it looks pretty much impossible to find these in Alberta, Canada. Everywhere I phone or go into, they tell me they dont stock DLP because noone wants them. My initial reaction is, "well I want one, where are they?"

For those asking if amazon will ship to Canada, no they will not. There reason is warranty. I also contacted Samsung and was told if I bought one in the US, it would not be warrantied in Canada. I was also told from the Samsung affiliated serice center in my area that if the TV was to be the reason behind a house fire, that my insurance would be void, as the television is not CSA approved. (bought in the US)

this sucks

for those of you still looking for the "best" price

6th ave has a coupone to save $533. that puts the price at 1966.00

coupon code is AFLSAM1966

In setting up the TV, did you select HDMI1 as the input source?

yes... but the tv wont let u select the hdmi 1 or 3 if there is no signal. i got it to work on my vista but not on xp for some reason... on vista. i noticed that once the hdmi is connected there is sound on both the tv and my laptop when there is only visuals on the samsung and not the laptop... is there a way to take the sound off my laptop? thanks in advance ~ jim

Make sure you go to your video settings on the laptop and tell it the second screen is connected on your laptop. I couldn't get the audio to come off of my laptop through the HDMI, so I imagine without a PC Card high def sound card you probably can't...and even if you could with that card you'd have to use optical for the audio anyway.

I have the 61A750 and I love it. I've looked on here several times and finally got around to registering. I do have a few questions that weren't answered in the big "list" thread of 24fps support (which didn't list ANY rear projections in the main list).

Does this TV support 24fps? Are there any settings I need to change? If the answer is already in this thread, forgive me but it's 135 pages long and I have to get to bed. LOL

Also, where would I look for all the test info on the forums? (grid lines, etc)



Thanks,
Jon

...They have the 61a750 in costco in Canada, some carry the 67a750. Also if you are in Ontario Badboy has the 67a750...

Thanks for this. I don't see these listed on the websites of either company but hopefully that will change. I was just in a Bay store in Ottawa. They were selling 5687s but said they had no intention of bringing in 650s or 750s.

...Does this TV support 24fps? Are there any settings I need to change? If the answer is already in this thread, forgive me but it's 135 pages long and I have to get to bed...
I haven't tried it myself yet, but yes this TV does support 24fps, and I believe it handles the frame rate automatically per its 120Hz constant run speed. I recall reading previous posts in which the TV's input info display shows it receiving Blu-ray video at 24fps.

Does anyone have a link to a 10% off BB coupon? I talked to one of the guys there at my local BB last night and he would not budge on the price. Said they sell to easily.

:):):)big river has a new low price on the 61a750
:cool::cool::cool::cool:wow thats cheap

do you have a link by any chance? I cannot seem to find big river's website.

do you have a link by any chance? I cannot seem to find big river's website.

I believe, the poster meant an online retailer website, named after the largest river in the world. Its name sounds like "mama" and "zone". Any more hints needed?

On the price matter, I've been watching 61/67 prices on their site for a while and price seems to be staying the same for the past week or two. Only deals they have are on returned/open box items.

Having said that, has anyone had a good experience dealing with 6ave?

Big River is Amazon.

I believe, the poster meant an online retailer website, named after the largest river in the world. Its name sounds like "mama" and "zone". Any more hints needed?

On the price matter, I've been watching 61/67 prices on their site for a while and price seems to be staying the same for the past week or two. Only deals they have are on returned/open box items.

Having said that, has anyone had a good experience dealing with 6ave?

it's actually the 2nd longest river behind the nile. ;)

check out camelcamelcamel.com to track stuff on that big river website.

Does anyone have a link to a 10% off BB coupon? I talked to one of the guys there at my local BB last night and he would not budge on the price. Said they sell to easily.
Go to a post office and pick up a movers pack/envelope; inside will be a couple of BB coupons. However, most of the time BB applies these discount coupons to the regular price of the TV, not the sale price. Some posters have said they were able to use their coupon against the sale price anyway. Guess it varies widely from store to store, day to day, etc.

Does this TV support 24fps? Are there any settings I need to change? If the answer is already in this thread, forgive me but it's 135 pages long and I have to get to bed. LOL <---- look at sgooters's post.

Also, where would I look for all the test info on the forums? (grid lines, etc)

u can find service menu grids or the grid.jpg here---->
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1029686


Does anyone have a link to a 10% off BB coupon? I talked to one of the guys there at my local BB last night and he would not budge on the price. Said they sell to easily.

you can get a 10% off coupon from your local post office's change of address form.


On the price matter, I've been watching 61/67 prices on their site for a while and price seems to be staying the same for the past week or two. Only deals they have are on returned/open box items.



Im still offering my Fry's raincheck from memorial day in houston, tx. It is priced at 1699 plus tax for a 61a750 and the last time i checked they still have it in stock(the raincheck expires june 25th 2008)! original price from bb and cc is still around 2000. waiting on my camera to post pics. still satisfied with my purchase!

Does anyone have a link to a 10% off BB coupon? I talked to one of the guys there at my local BB last night and he would not budge on the price. Said they sell too easily.

Go to another BB, or a Circuit City, or a Fry's, or a Sears...

I can't imagine that 67" TVs are selling very well right now, especially the way the economy is going. For what it's worth, the saleswoman at the first BB I went to would also not budge from $2499, but at the second BB I went to, I got it under $2000. Persistence pays off ;)

Having said that, has anyone had a good experience dealing with 6ave?
I can only say this about 6 Ave. When I was shopping around and trying to decide where to buy my 67, I sent them an email with some basic questions about their return policy, would it be better to buy directly from them rather than through Amazon as a 3rd party, etc. Never got a response. The reviews I've read about them are generally pretty good, as far as speed of delivery, etc., but some did mention that their customer service was weak (not responding to emails was specifically mentioned).

Bottom line, I figured if they didn't care enough to respond, they didn't need my business. So I bought from Amazon directly and have not regretted it (saved some $$ as well).

If I recall correctly, 6th Ave. was about $250 cheaper, yes?

Just got back from costco in Ancaster, they had the 61a750 and the 72a650 which took me by surprise. They were side by side and I liked the led better but thats just me both came with stands and an extra year. If you want to know how much they were, you can pm me.

Mike

I got my 61" from 6ave about 2 weeks ago and got an excellent TV and excellent service. Delivery time was 7 days and this was over Memorial ay weekend.

If I recall correctly, 6th Ave. was about $250 cheaper, yes?
theranman: if you're comparing to Amazon's price, it was more like $100 at that time (beginning of June). Price-wise, I gambled going with Amazon, hoping that their price would drop and they would match it. Sure enough, 5 days after buying it for $2349, it dropped to $2049 and I received a swift $300 refund.

hey just curious if anyone with DLPs, LCDs, and/or plasmas... do yall ended up buying an electricity purifier or cycler? its supposed to help the lifetime of the tv and bulbs. or should i just use a surge protector and call it a day? this is my first time with a DLP, so i just wanted to see what all the experts here say. if i do need one, can u please recommend me something for the tv, dvd player, and an amp/receiver. thank you in advance - much appreciated!

hey just curious if anyone with DLPs, LCDs, and/or plasmas... do yall ended up buying an electricity purifier or cycler? its supposed to help the lifetime of the tv and bulbs. or should i just use a surge protector and call it a day? this is my first time with a DLP, so i just wanted to see what all the experts here say. if i do need one, can u please recommend me something for the tv, dvd player, and an amp/receiver. thank you in advance - much appreciated!

Even THINKING silly thoughts such as these can cause serious neurological damage. Get your surge protector. Call it a day.

Even THINKING silly thoughts such as these can cause serious neurological damage. Get your surge protector. Call it a day.

daym BB ppl always trying to upsale their products...in store and at my house! dang, im glad i consulted with the experts. got me thinking that i was in the stone age or something. thanks again. much appreciated!

I can only say this about 6 Ave. When I was shopping around and trying to decide where to buy my 67, I sent them an email with some basic questions about their return policy, would it be better to buy directly from them rather than through Amazon as a 3rd party, etc. Never got a response. The reviews I've read about them are generally pretty good, as far as speed of delivery, etc., but some did mention that their customer service was weak (not responding to emails was specifically mentioned).

Bottom line, I figured if they didn't care enough to respond, they didn't need my business. So I bought from Amazon directly and have not regretted it (saved some $$ as well).

I just ordered a amplifier from them. Order processing and shipping was good. As far as posting tracking information or email conformation and such poor. You have to call customer service to find out anything. Price was good.

For anyone interested Samsung Canada has the 67a750 on there site now.

Mike

daym BB ppl always trying to upsale their products...in store and at my house! dang, im glad i consulted with the experts. got me thinking that i was in the stone age or something. thanks again. much appreciated!

I don't know, man...while I don't trust the BB salesmen to up-sell me on something like that, I don't think you should outright dismiss the advantages of having more that "just a surge protector," at least on lamp-based TVs. Our power company can't seem to supply electricity under 130 volts, and it goes out about once a month...sometimes in a really nasty way, like wavering between 20 and 80 volts for a minute or two. That sort of thing is tough on electronics. I have had it blow a filter capacitor on a tube TV and destroy a power supply on an LCD monitor....both were plugged into "just a surge protector." I bought an LED DLP, so it's probably a little safer, but I just don't trust the power company. I mean, I guess your homeowner's insurance may cover it (if you can prove it was an issue with the power or a lightning strike), but if your deductible is high, you might as well not even claim it and replace it yourself. I have a Tripp-Lite "home theater" UPS for the entertainment center, and an APC UPS for my computer and digital phone...sure, it's possible the UPS could fail spectacularly, but in my case it's more likely that the power will fail even worse. (Also, I know that the output of most affordable UPSes while on battery is a modified square wave...lesser of two evils, I guess.)

For anyone interested Samsung Canada has the 67a750 on there site now...

Thanks, Mike. Looks promising, although we still have to see who might be retailing them. Wonder why only the 67? It's really too big for my living room. Hopefully the 61 will come along soon.

Thanks, Mike. Looks promising, although we still have to see who might be retailing them. Wonder why only the 67? It's really too big for my living room. Hopefully the 61 will come along soon.
If I'm correctly reading mike1511's post at the top of this page, the 61" is now available in Canada.

Wonder why costco canada has 67A750 but costco here in the states does not?

For anyone interested Samsung Canada has the 67a750 on there site now.

Mike

What's the link? I don't see it on their site. Thanks

What's the link? I don't see it on their site. Thanks

http://www.samsung.com/ca/consumer/detail/detail.do?group=tv&type=tv&subtype=dlp&model_cd=HL67A750A1FXZC

sgooter

Costco has the 61a750 in Canada.

I can confirm I saw the 61 inch at Costco in Toronto (near Yorkdale) yesterday. This, of course, after they had told me they would not be getting them in.

I also have to say that the set up at costco does not come anywhere near doing the TV justice (no surprise I'm sure). I have the 67 and it looked much better than the one at costco even just out of the box. Just a heads up so people don't think its a good representation.

I haven't tried it myself yet, but yes this TV does support 24fps, and I believe it handles the frame rate automatically per its 120Hz constant run speed. I recall reading previous posts in which the TV's input info display shows it receiving Blu-ray video at 24fps.

Cool, thanks. Apparently it'll show each frame 5 times....I guess no action will be lost! :)

Hey ya'll...I am back on this site after a year or so...
Back then I purchased a 50" Samsung 5084 plasma(1080p) and I love it. However I wanna go bigger. I am interested in the 67a750. Am I going to regret a DLP after owning a plasma for over a year?

I guess my question is "What are the pros or cons to this DLP over the plasma I already own?" Other than size of course. You guys are great and thanks so much.

Not to cause a war, but a serious question. I currently own a 62: Mits DLP thats about 4 years old.

I am interested in a new TV and am considering the new 65" Mits Diamond and the 67" LCD SAmsung.

If the 2 are similar in price, aside from the longer life LCD, Why would the Sammy be a better choice?

I have looked at both and reviewed the posts here, but there is very little direct comparison between the 2.

Mits: New DLP chip, bulb
Sammy: LED, older chip

Just looking to make the best decision, I've seen both in person, but not next to each other for comparison.

Any help?

Can you get an exact measurement of the base? The TV weights less than 100 so that stand should work.

If the base is around 40 then I could put it on a 32" stand, with a supporting plank of 40". Need to re-think everything now. :D

Sorry for the late reply, been a busy week. It's a little difficult to get the exact measurement of the base due to its shape, but my stand is 43 inches wide, and as it currently sits (because it's facing diagonally out from a recessed area in the wall) there is a 1.25 inch distance from the edge of the base to the edge of the table on one side, and 2.5 inches on the other, which adds up to 39.25 inches in width. It may be a tad shorter or a tad longer, maybe a quarter to a half inch more in total.

Not to cause a war, but a serious question. I currently own a 62: Mits DLP thats about 4 years old.

I am interested in a new TV and am considering the new 65" Mits Diamond and the 67" LCD SAmsung.

If the 2 are similar in price, aside from the longer life LCD, Why would the Sammy be a better choice?

I have looked at both and reviewed the posts here, but there is very little direct comparison between the 2.

Mits: New DLP chip, bulb
Sammy: LED, older chip

Just looking to make the best decision, I've seen both in person, but not next to each other for comparison.

Any help?

You mean 67" DLP not LCD:)

Sorry if I wasn't clear

My comments on my 67A750 after a few days of ownership:

SD - I have the full-tier Cox package in Oklahoma City. On SD in dark or solid backgrounds there are clouds of large blocky pixel-ish things that float and shimmer around. I've got the DVR unit, and if you pause the picture on these the moving pixel clouds stop in place as well, so I'm assuming this is a signal issue. Standard cable _can_ look surprisingly bad on some stations, not the fault of the TV. Some standard stations look fine. But a 67 inch screen definitely magnifies the usual issues with poor SD images. I should say that the floating giant pixel clouds don't happen just on dark backgrounds, any large, relatively solid background shows them.

The movie channels look quite a bit better. You can still see the "pixel clouds" (dunno what this is called) a bit, but it's not really noticable from several feet back. Very happy overall with the image.

DVDs look amazing. HDTV needs no description, I'm watching stuff on HDTV now that I don't even care about just to bask in the picture. Colors are awesome.

The only real issue relating to geometry that I have is that on the left side the top of the screen is about 0.25 to 0.30 inches closer to the frame than at the bottom. This is zero problem on anything that fills the screen, however on SD to fill the screen I have to use the Wide setting, but instead of filling the screen entirely as HDTV does there's a two-tone black strip about half an inch wide on each side of the image, with a dark edge against the picture and a lighter area next to the frame. Here, that 0.25-0.30 inch difference is somehow extremely bothersome. I don't understand why the Wide setting doesn't go ahead and fill out this last half inch of screen space on each side. Is there a way to expand that in the service menu by any chance? Even if I select the screen position adjust and move the screen all the way to the left it still stops before the edge of the frame. I know it _can_ display all the way to the edge since HD broadcasts do. It seems odd to me. If I could fix that, I'd be in heaven.

Overall, though, very happy with this set. Cinema mode out of the box seemed overly dark (not just subdued) to me, but the brightness adjust is more than enough to bring this up to my taste, and again the overall brightness is just fine. Even in a room with a fair amount of ambient light in the middle of the day this thing just seems to shine right through.

How far away are you sitting mmokc?

Oh and I moved and had to downgrade to Cox in Hampton Roads. Their HD signals are so compressed..it drives me crazy. SO muchs worse than DirecTV. Makes me want to move to get my satellite back.

One more thing...Why choose DLP over say a 50" plasma? Is it just for the gigantic view?

Oh and post pics...PLEASE!

Can't find any references to using the wiselink for displaying digital photos, so am adding my experience. I have plugged in 3 difference Canon digital cameras to the wiselink usb2.0 port and in all three cases the TV automatically uploaded the images stored in the camera for display. I also transferred PC folders of .jpg photos to a thumb drive (geek squad) and plugged it in directly to the usb port and they were automatically uploaded for a slide show. All of this is well documented in the manual and there were no surprises. The big, bright display of the '750 has made this the preferred way for doing the occasional slide shows for visitors. Cool!

TKandil, of course the main reason to go DLP over plasma is you get the biggest bang for your buck. A same price plasma as the 67" Samsung is gonna make a much much smaller bang! Kinda like a Derringer vs. a 45ACP 1911, which would you rather take to a gunfight?

There are advantages and disadvantages to each technology but you'll love the Sammy, go for it!

Not to cause a war, but a serious question. I currently own a 62: Mits DLP thats about 4 years old.

I am interested in a new TV and am considering the new 65" Mits Diamond and the 67" LCD SAmsung.

If the 2 are similar in price, aside from the longer life LCD, Why would the Sammy be a better choice?

I have looked at both and reviewed the posts here, but there is very little direct comparison between the 2.

Mits: New DLP chip, bulb
Sammy: LED, older chip

Just looking to make the best decision, I've seen both in person, but not next to each other for comparison.

Any help?

I really can't help you but if nothing else this will give you a bump up... Hopefully someone else will chime in with more since this is a great question.

I haven't seen them side by side either, a shame you can't find them that way. I originally intended to buy a Mitsubishi but in three showrooms I liked the Samsung better so bought one a few weeks ago (the A650). Very happy with the choice but suspect I'd be happy with the Mits as well. It was a difficult choice so I let a great sale make the decision for me.

I needed the 56" size but if going large I'd lean toward the 67" LED for the extra size and the LED light engine. The DarkChip4 is a great feature but I don't think it's been proven in real life to improve contrast and black level enough to matter. If it were clearly better I believe you'd remember it even if you have to run to another aisle to compare with the Sammy.

Maybe you could take a digicam along and take pictures of each tweaked picture? Let us know which way you go!

its funny.. go look in the owners thread at some of my posts from end of may, and I go off on a tangent about this, and I had not ONE person comment on it SINCE!
I couldnt agree with you more. the packaging is garbage!
i think it plays a major part in a couple of the issues these sets arrive with NAMELY the flimsy frame and offset geometry!
Has anyone ordered from Butterfly Photo. According to their web site they they add extra padding to the original packaging. The review I have seen on this site have been mixed. TIA

sgooter
Costco has the 61a750 in Canada.
Yes, that's what I understood from your helpful post.
Similarly my reply to "davegow's" later post was simply an attempt to gently prod him to read your earlier post about the 61" now availabe at the Costco in Ancaster, since he's looking for a 61" in Canada.

for those of you still looking for the "best" price

6th ave has a coupone to save $533. that puts the price at 1966.00

coupon code is AFLSAM1966

For the HL72A650 you can use: AFLSAM2248

Good deal, except, living in NJ, I would have to pay tax. Amazon had it under $2400 and it went back up today.

It's still $2049 from Amazon, it's just not in stock from them.

Even THINKING silly thoughts such as these can cause serious neurological damage. Get your surge protector. Call it a day.

I have an 8 year old Sony 53", and a 4 year old Sony 51" HD, and they have both been on UPS power, always. Living in Florida, it is crazy to not have UPS power protection. My new Samsung is on a 1400 watt UPS, along with two Tivo's, and receiver, DVD player, and FTA STB. Get the biggest you can afford, and be sure to check the ground on the outlet you plug it into. Having a poor ground is just as good as not having a UPS.

Joe - Jensen Beach, FL

I don't want to start a war with anyone who wants to defend their LCD, but I work with LCD panels, and I own the new Samsung DLP with LED engine. The LCD panels have one resolution that looks best, and unless you get a really fast model $$, you will have a really hard time meeting the Samsung 2008 DLP models. Plasma can hold its own, picture wise, with a DLP, but I don't ever want one because of the heat, the pixel burn, and the weight, oh, and the price. The Samsung 61" model, with LED engine has a beatiful picture, but don't take my word for it, go to a Best Buy, or where ever you can find one side by side with any LCD, or Plasma. The 61" DLP weighs 70 lbs, and is instant on. The 2008 Samsung DLP models are worht looking at before you buy anything. You always have the option to buy an LCD, or Plasma if you disagree.

Not to cause a war, but a serious question. I currently own a 62: Mits DLP thats about 4 years old.

I am interested in a new TV and am considering the new 65" Mits Diamond and the 67" LCD SAmsung.

If the 2 are similar in price, aside from the longer life LCD, Why would the Sammy be a better choice?

I have looked at both and reviewed the posts here, but there is very little direct comparison between the 2.

Mits: New DLP chip, bulb
Sammy: LED, older chip

Just looking to make the best decision, I've seen both in person, but not next to each other for comparison.

Any help?

I don't know, man...while I don't trust the BB salesmen to up-sell me on something like that, I don't think you should outright dismiss the advantages of having more that "just a surge protector," at least on lamp-based TVs. Our power company can't seem to supply electricity under 130 volts, and it goes out about once a month...sometimes in a really nasty way, like wavering between 20 and 80 volts for a minute or two. That sort of thing is tough on electronics. I have had it blow a filter capacitor on a tube TV and destroy a power supply on an LCD monitor....both were plugged into "just a surge protector." I bought an LED DLP, so it's probably a little safer, but I just don't trust the power company. I mean, I guess your homeowner's insurance may cover it (if you can prove it was an issue with the power or a lightning strike), but if your deductible is high, you might as well not even claim it and replace it yourself. I have a Tripp-Lite "home theater" UPS for the entertainment center, and an APC UPS for my computer and digital phone...sure, it's possible the UPS could fail spectacularly, but in my case it's more likely that the power will fail even worse. (Also, I know that the output of most affordable UPSes while on battery is a modified square wave...lesser of two evils, I guess.)


thanks for the response... so i assume that UPSs are better than these electricity purifier or cyclers(what is the correct term for these)? i will get which ever is better. thanks in advance for all the help. much appreciated! pics are coming tomorrow fo sho!

Plasma can hold its own, picture wise, with a DLP, but I don't ever want one because of the heat, the pixel burn, and the weight, oh, and the price.
This is why i'm leaning towards the DLP :D I'd love a 58A550, but it's $1K more, heavier, consumes more power and boy oh boy do we know about the heat. It's getting into the triple digits here in SoCal and watching TV makes things much worse with a 50'' Panny.

thanks for the response... so i assume that UPSs are better than these electricity purifier or cyclers(what is the correct term for these)? i will get which ever is better. thanks in advance for all the help. much appreciated! pics are coming tomorrow fo sho!"electricity purifier or cycler" = Power Conditioner?

What is "better" depends on your situation. A surge protector is generally a good idea, especially if you live in an area subject to lightening or power spikes. I, personally, would not run AV/computer equipment without one. The problem is to find one that really works. More money does not necessarily mean more protection. (BTW, there was a thread on these but I have not visited it in a while.)

If you live in an area with poor power regulation (the lights in the house suddenly dim or get brighter), a power conditioner could help both the health and the aesthetics (output quality - sound, PQ, etc.) of your electronic equipment. In general, fewer people need power conditoners.

If your area of residence is subject to power outages, then a UPS (with surge protection and maybe some power conditioning as a bonus) is certainly desirable to protect sensitive equipment that performs solid state writes or requires controlled shutdowns or startups. In the "old" days, the problem with AV equipment and outages was not the lost of power but the sudden restoration of power. This is not as big a deal today because most solid state equipment shuts down on power lost and will not restart without the push of a button or throwing of a switch. An example of equipment needing a controlled shutdown, as mentioned previously, are the blub-dlp displays. The bulb is normally cooled via the cooling fan on normal shutdown and thus a UPS is considered a good way to assure proper cooling in case of an outage. In general, if you have a cooling fan that runs after power-off, then a UPS could be of benefit.

So, look at your situation - storms, electrical outages, poor power regulation, equipment requiring controlled shutdowns or needing to avoid sudden restoration of power - one or all of the various solutions might be appropriate.

I disagree in part with one thing that was posted about UPSs. If you are going the UPS route, unless you need to keep some piece of equipment, such as server, running for an extended period during an outage, then the biggest wattage/capacity you can afford might not be needed. All you need is time to execute a controlled shut down of your equipment. For example, with a blulb-dlp, when all of the lights go out, in the worst case, all you need is time to get up out of your chair, walk to the TV, press the off button and have the fan/bulb go through the the cooling cycle. Thus, the UPS need only supply enough power continuously for the fan to run 5 to 10 minutes. And, not all of your AV equipment will need to be on the uninterruptable outlets. So, do calculate the max power draw for your equipment that will be plugged into the UPS side of the box, but remember you do not usually need capacity for more than a few minutes of backup power for AV equipment.

As for me, several years ago, I wanted good surge protection because of storms and power outages in our area during all four seasons and a UPS because I had a bulb-model dlp display. At first, I kissed-off the UPS due to cost. But, before I bought a surge protector, I found a good quality Pure-AV UPS with power conditioning and surge protection that was being discontinued and essentially "given away' because of the low wattage and capacity of the box, which was just right for me - a $800+ unit for about $125. I run it with only the TV and the cable DVR on the UPS circuit and all the other devices on the surge protection but not UPS circuits. (Typical UPS boxes has some outlets that are not actually on the UPS circuit.) I have no idea what a similar UPSs would go for today. FWIW and Good Luck.

My staements about UPS power come from using them for more than the last 20 years. I started buying them when I was in college and was working on a computer program for class. I had been up all weekend writing the program, and it was great. Then the power glitched for a few seconds and it was gone. I did my best to retrieve it from temp files, and could not get anything; so I bought my first APC UPS and have never been without one since. Florida is a hot bed for power problems, more so than many other states.
The size of your UPS has to handle the total wattage of the devices plugged into it. There is a run time associated with the load, versus how much of it you consume. As the UPS ages, the power it can supply is reduced. After a time, you would have to replace the bateries in the UPS. The UPS will always filter surges from the line. It is those surges, spikes in power, that hurt your electronics. The power going off, while critical for computers, doesn't do much to hurt you TV, DVD, and such. It's not even a good idea to cut the power from your Tivo, but Tivo's are not known for being hurt by power outage. The spikes on the power can be generated by lightening strikes as far as a mile from your home. The closer it is, the highr the chances that it will hurt something. A hit in your yard, or a direct hit, are almost all the same. The lightening bolt causes spikes of thousands of volts, even millions. How high, and how long it lasts are not going to make much difference if you have no protection, but protection from anything, is no guarantee that a direct hit would save you. In fact, there isn't anything but luck to help you if you have a direct hit.
The size of the UPS is important, and with increased size, comes increased price. Check the wattage of all that you want to protect, then purchase your UPS with a published specification for the wattage. It will give its ratings in terms of run time. Sure, you won't want to watch TV if the power fails, but you do want the system to not be overworked, and give you a few minutes of run time. If the power does not come back in a few seconds, or a minute, you can turn everything off. One last tip, if there is a lightening storm in your neighborhood, unplugg your electronics from the wall. Don't put your UPS to the test, you might not like the end result.
The models I have are APC, and Tripp-Lite. I got the 1400 watt Tripp-Lite's in a business deal, but I would not have bought them if I paid for them. I put new batteries in them for a cost of $44 from a local place.
I feel this is off topic, sorry. Let me add that the Plasma will will require a big UPS. Also, never plug your laser printer into your UPS. Over loading a UPS is worse than not having one. You will not only stand the chance of losing your electronics, but the UPS can blow its cork. Depending on the make and model, what will happen when you overload it will vary, but it is never a good idea. Surge protection is better than nothing, but they do not last forever, they have a useful life span, then they become useles. Icould explain why, but I have already talked too much.

Joe

"electricity purifier or cycler" = Power Conditioner?


I disagree in part with one thing that was posted about UPSs. If you are going the UPS route, unless you need to keep some piece of equipment, such as server, running for an extended period during an outage, then the biggest wattage/capacity you can afford might not be needed. All you need is time to execute a controlled shut down of your equipment. For example, with a blulb-dlp, when all of the lights go out, in the worst case, all you need is time to get up out of your chair, walk to the TV, press the off button and have the fan/bulb go through the the cooling cycle. Thus, the UPS need only supply enough power continuously for the fan to run 5 to 10 minutes. And, not all of your AV equipment will need to be on the uninterruptable outlets. So, do calculate the max power draw for your equipment that will be plugged into the UPS side of the box, but remember you do not usually need capacity for more than a few minutes of backup power for AV equipment.

.

Also, never plug your laser printer into your UPS. Over loading a UPS is worse than not having one. One day, while feeling particularly domestic, I mistakeningly plugged a vacuum cleaner into my UPS. Scared the crap out of me... :eek:

i am really greatful for the responses from don and mass... but if i just want to protect my 61a750 led dlp(technically this is still a bulb even though its led right?). should i get the UPS then? i cant imagine it being that bad... i saw a few refurbed UPSs at upsforless.com(http://www.upsforless.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWCATS&Category=2). even the cheapest one here should be able to cover the dlp correct? so after reading both of yalls replies, i feel i still dont need one because i rarely have power outages or shortages...i kind of dont want to take a gamble too, so maybe i rather be safe than sorry...have yall had any luck with refurbed UPSs? thanks in advance again.

I have no experience with refurbished UPSs. There does not seem to be as much concern with leds as with the conventional high pressure bulbs. Though I have no specific info on the leds, I suspect the cool down cycle is not as important.

Do you need a UPS? Sorry, it's all up to you and your comfort zone. As I mentioned previously, if I had not found the bargain basement price, I would not have gotten one.

One last tip, if there is a lightening storm in your neighborhood, unplugg your electronics from the wall. Don't put your UPS to the test, you might not like the end result.
Doing so is only worthwhile if you also unplug any telephone, cable TV, satellite, OTA antenna, and any other connections to your system that could possibly be exposed to a lightening strike. In my home, it would literally take me hours to disconnect everything, so I've invested in quality surge protectors throughout the house and keep my fingers crossed that my equipment never gets hit.

I have no allegiance to LCD or DLP. I'm just looking for the best TV I can get. I'd love the size of the 67" HL67A750 compared to a 52" LCD for the same price. I could even live without having my TV mounted on the wall. I really wanted to fall in love with the HL67A750 but I was very disappointed with what I saw of it today at CC. Maybe you guys can tell me that it was just the store model that was so disappointing. First I noticed as I approached it that the viewing angle was very limited. In fact, unless I squatted down a bit to get my eyes level with the exact center of the screen, I would get a noticeably darker picture. That was just the offset due to height. As I moved left and right of the screen, the deterioration of the image was so bad that I would not want to watch it unless I had the best seat in the house. Also, as I compared the image to nearby LCD's and Plasma's, I noticed that even while viewing at dead center of the HL67A750 the outer corners of the screen were noticeably darker. It was almost like a special effect where you're in a tunnel and the center of the screen is bright and clear and as you get further toward the outside of the image, things get darker. I may not have noticed this if every tv in the store not been showing the same image. I could look around and see detail in the corners of the LCDs and Plasmas that I couldn't see in the DLP's corners of the same image.

Are things things something that can be calibrated? Are they inherent to DLP? I do not mean to demean your TV if you have on of these. Believe me, this would be my first choice, but I couldn't accept an image that was this flawed and required such a small viewing range for optimal performace. Please tell me what was wrong with what I was seeing and why I should continue to keep the HL67A750 on my short list.

I noticed that Costco has a $200 off coupon on a "Samsung 67" 1080p DLP HDTV with Stand" July 21- July 27, item# 289867. I was wondering if anyone knows if this is for the HL67A750 LED DLP or the HLT6756W DLP? Costco's customer service was unable to answer my question since this set is not yet in their inventory. However, I noticed the small print on the coupon said it was 1920x1080 resolution with 3 HDMI inputs, and it only appears the A750 has 3 HDMI inputs.

I had to give away a 6-year old Mits Diamond CRT when we moved a few months ago and thought I would not get another opportunity to find another 65+ RPTV that I would welcome with open arms since Sony no longer makes 'em and our 18-month old Mits Diamond DLP has been only so-so (not really a big fan of the color wheel and bulb). Anyway, I am really looking forward to getting my mitts on this set...hopefully from Costco.

I have no allegiance to LCD or DLP. I'm just looking for the best TV I can get. I'd love the size of the 67" HL67A750 compared to a 52" LCD for the same price. I could even live without having my TV mounted on the wall. I really wanted to fall in love with the HL67A750 but I was very disappointed with what I saw of it today at CC. Maybe you guys can tell me that it was just the store model that was so disappointing. First I noticed as I approached it that the viewing angle was very limited. In fact, unless I squatted down a bit to get my eyes level with the exact center of the screen, I would get a noticeably darker picture. That was just the offset due to height. As I moved left and right of the screen, the deterioration of the image was so bad that I would not want to watch it unless I had the best seat in the house. Also, as I compared the image to nearby LCD's and Plasma's, I noticed that even while viewing at dead center of the HL67A750 the outer corners of the screen were noticeably darker. It was almost like a special effect where you're in a tunnel and the center of the screen is bright and clear and as you get further toward the outside of the image, things get darker. I may not have noticed this if every tv in the store not been showing the same image. I could look around and see detail in the corners of the LCDs and Plasmas that I couldn't see in the DLP's corners of the same image.

Are things things something that can be calibrated? Are they inherent to DLP? I do not mean to demean your TV if you have on of these. Believe me, this would be my first choice, but I couldn't accept an image that was this flawed and required such a small viewing range for optimal performace. Please tell me what was wrong with what I was seeing and why I should continue to keep the HL67A750 on my short list.
The viewing angle for max PQ is pretty narrow. More so on the vertical than horizontal. You pretty much need to view it with the screen being exactly perpendicular to your line of sight. You do not need to view it exactly on-center, but it helps. Proper calibration will greatly diminish this effect.

That said, you shouldn't really make any judgments based on what you see in a store. They use low quality images and the monitor setup is poor at best. You really can't get a better picture in this size range at this price. You may also find that the 61" A750 is more to your liking, since it's not pushing the light engine as far. Once calibrated, the PQ on these things takes your breath away.

I haven't seen any issues on my 67 inch with the corners being darker except when I'm viewing it too closely, and while not sitting "best seat" does diminish the image quality a bit I don't see a dramatic darkening there, either.

As I mentioned in a previous post, in my non-expert opinion you need a decent viewing distance with this TV more than with perhaps an LCD or plasma in order for the screen to be evenly illuminated. At around 7 or 8 feet the picture looks good, but there is noticable darkening away from the center. Move back to around 10 or 12 feet and the entire screen seems bright, even and crisp. I'd also comment that the factory brightness on cinema/movie mode seems very poor to me, at least on my set, and others have agreed. It's very dark. It is of course easy to fix this, and the set is more than capable of being bright enough in some scenes in a darkened room to cause me to squint. Sometimes I wonder if past comments about the darkness of the screen have come from people viewing it in the store on the ostensibly more "accurate" but much darker cinema mode. (It seems much darker than the default cinema/movie modes on other HDTVs I have seen.)

So is the HL67A750 worth getting? I owned a 1080P 61" DLP Samsung in 2005 and replaced it last year witha 65" 1080P DLP Toshiba. I'm thinking about getting the 67" Samsung to replace my Toshiba if I can sell it, but I'm not sure about the LED models since last years models weren't very good. But I hear they have made some great improvements with them.

And what about the stand(base)? Are they designed to be removed like my 2005 model was? I need to spread the weight out over the width of the stand. Plus I don't want the extra height that the stand creates.

I noticed that Costco has a $200 off coupon on a "Samsung 67" 1080p DLP HDTV with Stand" July 21- July 27, item# 289867. I was wondering if anyone knows if this is for the HL67A750 LED DLP or the HLT6756W DLP? Costco's customer service was unable to answer my question since this set is not yet in their inventory. However, I noticed the small print on the coupon said it was 1920x1080 resolution with 3 HDMI inputs, and it only appears the A750 has 3 HDMI inputs.

I had to give away a 6-year old Mits Diamond CRT when we moved a few months ago and thought I would not get another opportunity to find another 65+ RPTV that I would welcome with open arms since Sony no longer makes 'em and our 18-month old Mits Diamond DLP has been only so-so (not really a big fan of the color wheel and bulb). Anyway, I am really looking forward to getting my mitts on this set...hopefully from Costco.

I asked at costco alsow about this tv. The guy went and looked it up and said it was model number HL67A510. It is not a LED tv but it shows up as one of samsungs "new" tvs on their web page. Anyone know anything about this tv? http://www.samsung.com/us/consumer/detail/detail.do?group=televisions&type=televisions&subtype=dlptv&model_cd=HL67A510J1FXZA

that is strange at a glance.
its certainly larger than the a750 at W 62.4" X H 44.2" compared to the A750 at W 60.8" X H 41.5". The 510 is also almost 3 inches DEEPER from front to back than the A750. I would think based on that, that it would be lamp, but on the Sammy site it boasts 40% brighter like the 750?

Actually, I BET its a Phlatlight version that IS NOT SLIM DEPTH.. Maybe:rolleyes:
who knows..
okay ......after looking at the pdf on sammys site, its NOT a LED, its not a SLIM DEPTH, it ONLY has 2 HDMI INS, and it Boasts a "SLIM BEZEL" (frame) and "CINEMA SMOOTH 1080P Light Engine.. ie LAMP.
Besides that . DO THE MATH :D .. 510....650...750...hmmmMMmm seeing a pattern here.. LOL j/k

on that note I popped over here from the 61a750 owners thread, not to double post but rather to leave a LINK to my past two posts that I would like everyone in this thread to see as well.
Thanks

Post #636 (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showpost.php?p=14135985&postcount=636)
Post #637 (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=14135996#post14135996)

Bought a Sony KDS55A3000 from Sears for their advertised price, plus 10% rebate.anyway love the 61" size. Honestly how would the sony and samsung compare in pic. quality. I still have a week or so to return my Sony....is it worth doing, or is my 55A3000 giving me a better pic? Thanks
George

Is it too much trouble to go look at a 61" Samsung to help you decide? Anyway, I went to look at a Sony and Samsung side by side in a Best Buy last Summer, couldn't tell the difference between the picture quality and bought the Samsung because the picture didn't take as long to come on and didn't need bulb replacement.

30 year old Mom of three boys here and I don't know a darn thing about these TV's but I was wanting to enhance the boys DVD viewing and their Wii and PS3 games etc............ Thought we would all enjoy it. I'm trying.:rolleyes:

Went to Circuit City and asked to buy the new HL67a750 for $1999.00 and they said NO. So I went across the street to Best Buy here in FTW TX and they said YES. I was going to hit other CC's and BB's until I found the right one willing to deal because I heard that they are all willing to deal. Negotiate on price etc.. due to the economy and poor sales and what not. Sure enough it worked.
Got it home and right away noticed that on widefit mode that there is a vertical blank side on both sides of the screen where the picture does not reach.
SO.... is that normal? It is about one inch on one side and almost another inch on the other side. What the heck is that about? Is that normal?

I have regular fiber optic uverse and the house was wired for the fiber optic. However I have not yet ordered HD programming from AT&T.

Should I order it?

At times the TV images appears to be a lil blurry or out of focus looking to me.

Super close up images seem life like and I can see the moles and pores on peoples faces. However when watching like the Today Show or 60 minutes I notice the people seem a little out of focus or a slight blur?
I thought everyone was suppose to look super crisp and totally in focus?
YES or no?
Cause I don't know?

Action pictures like the recent championship basketball game was severely pixel broken? Those fast action movements were all broken up and that annoyed the heck out of me! Close ups were excellent. But those blurry images all fragmented looking while running up and down the court really annoyed me! ARGH!


Would ordering HD correct these issues? Do I need an HD box?
Is it something wrong with the TV?

OH, and one time I turned the TV back on and noticed that only once the picture was frozen on the screen and only sound was coming out?

I feel overwhelmed now and am getting a bit discouraged. I don't want to go to the store and get the runaround or lied to or BS'd because they think I am some female that they can BS in order to get me to keep the TV.

OMGOSH.........I wanna scream because this TV is BIG and putting it back in the box to haul it back to the store is going to be a NIGHTMARE.
Should I try another one?
Could it be the quality of the cables? The actual cable from the wall to the TV?
Or the HDMI cable? Do I need to buy super expensive when it comes to those? I bought a bundle set for 60. at costco. ????

Is this some sort of issue with Uverse?

Another thing is that I did not notice this problem on my JVC 42 inch regular TV.

The sound on this TV totally stinks in my opinion but I was going to get a good surroud sound system eventually anyways.

Should fast action images appear out of focus or not?

I don't want to waste my money or keep this TV past the 30 day return time frame.

So what should I do?

I found this site after googling for any type of issues for these Samsungs.
I chose this TV due to its size and due to having the LED verses a bulb.

I would have bought the 72/73 ? 650 model but it still had the lamp and I did not want to have to replace it or have any issues.

Okay you TV savy guys out there... let me know what you think. I would totally appreciate it.

I got my 12 year old son that 80gb metal bundle pkg ps3 that came out last week or so, and I can't wait to give it to him for his birthday. He does not know he is getting it and he did not know I got the big TV either. He is away visiting his father and I want to surprise him. I only have about 2 remaining weeks before his return so I need to get the kinks out of these concerns and come up with a solution, a return or another TV. ???????????

Thanks everyone.
FTW TX

FAIRWX Get an HD box already!

Seriously though, if you want a quick way to figure it out go to radio shack (or comparable store) and get the cheapest rabbit ears you can find. They will pick up your local HD stations for free, and they should look phenomenal on your set. Normal standard def stuff usually looks mediocre to poor on these big HD sets. Action should look fine, no blur or pixelation - sounds like a source problem.

Get an antenna and see if you like the clarity, then upgrade your cable package to HD content. The sound is poor on these sets, but you should have a TV that big connected to a surround sound system.

Your son is gonna flip when he sees the PS3 on that monster.

Got it home and right away noticed that on widefit mode that there is a vertical blank side on both sides of the screen where the picture does not reach.
SO.... is that normal?I do not ever use "wide fit" mode, so I do not know how it is suppose to display content that originates in different aspect ratios. In most other modes, some type of black bar border would be normal with different aspect materials and the setting of the display (16:9 vs 4:3). Maybe someone with direct experience can address this. For more than you ever wanted toknow about black bars, HTwaits probably provides a good analysis: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=2951524#post2951524

The other things you mentioned are usually source related (i.e., a result of the cable service you have). Since you have observed that some material is "crisp and in focus" and other material is not also suggest source related problems.

All material received over the cable is not equal in quality. Media content will originate as either analog or digital from the broadcaster. The cable provider then takes the signal from the broadcaster, possibly manipulate it for various reasons, and then feed it to you via the cable. In general, a signal that originated from the broadcaster as digital will looked better on these displays than a signal that originated as analog. Then, digital signals can originate as either standard definiton (SD) or high definition (HD). In general, a high definition signal will look better on these displays than a standard definiton signal. In my experience, the signals that originated as analog usually appeared softer and slightly out of focus vs the signals that originated as digital. The degree of differerence in the signals is a function of the cable provider and how much they screw with the signal before sending it out.

Will HD correct the problems you are seeing? Can not say for sure because some providers even muck up HD. Though in generally, the HD version of an SD station will always look better.

Will you need an HD box? Probably. If your local stations provide an HD signal, then your cable provider is required to send that station out unscrambled. Typically, though it again depends on your provider, you will find the unscrambled local HD signals up in the high end of the channel range (400 - 700s or higher). Ask your provider. If you want any premium HD channels (HBO and the like), you will need a box because these sets do not accept cable cards.

Action pictures like the recent championship basketball game was severely pixel broken? Those fast action movements were all broken up and that annoyed the heck out of me! Close ups were excellent. But those blurry images all fragmented looking while running up and down the court really annoyed me! ARGH!This almost certainly a source problem caused by the cable provider compressing the signal too much before sending it out. DLPs are so fast that they do not suffer from the blurred motion issues of LCDs and the like. Ordering HD might or might not correct this. Depends on the provider. (One other thought: sometimes breakup (not blurring) can be the result of a weak signal. You can have your cable provider send someone out to check the signal strength.)

OH, and one time I turned the TV back on and noticed that only once the picture was frozen on the screen and only sound was coming out? No idea about this one. If it happens again, you should talk to the service department if for no reason than to get it on the record that you are having problems early on with the set.

Could it be the quality of the cables? The actual cable from the wall to the TV? Or the HDMI cable? Do I need to buy super expensive when it comes to those? I bought a bundle set for 60. at costco. ????Cable can be a problem but in this case, probably not. With bad cables, the picture quality is generally bad all the time. I'd advise that you not waste money on expensive HDMI cables. They are usually no better in regard to PQ than the less expensive cables. Monoprice on the web is a good source of quality, low cost cables.

I'd suggest, just to be safe, you get BB/Samsung to send out a service person and have them look at the set in regard to the problems you have described in case something is actually wrong. The service person will probably say "that's normal." But, in the meantime, you might be able to get BB to extend your return period because you believe there is a problem with the set and you are having it serviced.

Personally, I doubt that a different set will solve the problems you have described.

(BTW: Personal observation. DO NOT ALLOW THE SERVICE PERSON TO TAKE THE SET OUT OF THE HOME FOR REPAIR. If he/she insists, I'd return the set for a difference one.)

Good luck.

FAIRWX - YES! Get the HD box. It will be a HUGE improvement. As the poster above mentioned, the standard definition cable channels can look quite lousy on this TV. One warning though, (and I'm not sure if this applies to your AT&T cable, but certainly does to my Comcast), sometimes the cable company will over compress high def channels to squeeze more into their lineup. This can sometimes cause pixelation or macroblocking on fast moving scenes, and would be considered "normal", (but a sign of a crappy cable company). You shouldn't have these problems if you get your HD channels over the air with an antenna, they are usually not compressed. Also, not sure if you have a box now, but you may want to try connecting the coax cable directly to the TV as well as to your box (you may need a splitter). Your cable company probably already has the digital and HD local channels unencrypted, and the tuner in your TV can pick those up. So, you could try this and see if you get any HD channels without buying an antenna. You will need to have the TV scan for these channels, and they will probably have station numbers like 4-1, with 4 being the regular local SD channel, and 4-1 being a digital or HD version.. These will look about how they would look if you got an HD box from the cable company, (still probably not as good as using an antenna).

If you want to be blown away, wait until you hook up that PS3 and watch a Blu Ray or play a game!!

For the HDMI cable, you don't need to spend a lot. Check out places online, like www.monoprice.com. You can get high quality HDMI cables for around $5 to $10.

Also, others do complain about the sound, but if you are going to get surround sound eventually, I'd just deal with it for now. When you do get that, make sure the receiver has HDMI inputs so you can get the best uncompressed sound out of your PS3.

Check out the link in my signature for some suggested picture settings and tweaks.

And P.S. - Will you adopt me? ;-)

"Got it home and right away noticed that on widefit mode that there is a vertical blank side on both sides of the screen where the picture does not reach."

My 67 does this as well. I'm wondering if there is a way to adjust this in the service menu, as I know the image will fill the entire screen on Just Scan for true HD content. On the other hand, after about a week of having this set, the bars don't bother me quite so much any more. It's not a deal-breaker for me, but my last RPTV's wide mode filled the screen entirely, and the bars are thin enough that even a small geometry issue makes them stick out like a sore thumb.

As for the rest, I'd agree you're probably looking at signal issues, which are fairly (unfortunately) common. And thanks to the size of the TV, yes, the non-HD channels are going to look blurry and out of focus many times. You're dealing with not just whether or not the signal is HD, but the quality of the original source. I've seen lots of non-HD content on the HD channels that didn't look too hot, either - less noise than the same content on SD, but still certainly not crisp and clean. It seems that sound issues due to source are more magnified with this set as well. Many channels on OKC Cox have wildly varying volume levels, for example Scrubs will often require me to crank up the volume to make out dialogue, while everything else is fine. Sometimes I've run back-to-back episodes off of my DVR, same night, same station, and while the audio on both sucked the volume was clearly at very different levels on each, as was the image quality. Same station, same TV show, episodes from the same season of the TV show, dramatic differences in image and sound quality.

None of which is to say the TV is bad. I think at this size you're literally seeing flaws magnified. The screen size of this even compared to a 58 inch is huge.

...I have not yet ordered HD programming from AT&T. ...Should I order it?...

There is absolutely no point in spending the money on a good HDTV and not also get the best HD signal you can find. It's like buying a Porsche and never taking it out of your driveway.

Thanks for the coupon code for 6ave...

Resellerratings are over 8, so they should be fine. I have been itching to order one, and this is the best price out there, and it is in stock (unlike amazon and vanns).

Now I need to get rid of the 55" CRT that I have :)

hey guys... i finally have some pictures to add for my hl61a750, but i do not know how to attach. can you please show me how to host from avs like others have? i really dont want to go to a third party to host the pics... thanks in advance.

hey guys... i finally have some pictures to add for my hl61a750, but i do not know how to attach. can you please show me how to host from avs like others have? i really dont want to go to a third party to host the pics... thanks in advance.
click on manage attachments below the submit reply button. You should see the option to upload pics

Thanks for the coupon code for 6ave...

Resellerratings are over 8, so they should be fine. I have been itching to order one, and this is the best price out there, and it is in stock (unlike amazon and vanns).

Now I need to get rid of the 55" CRT that I have :)

They're respectable. I've ordered things from them before, and been to their retail stores here in NJ. Additionally, they are listed as an authorized dealer on Samsung's site which takes away the warranty worry.

thanks my man...

here are the pics as promised... sorry i took so long! first set of two! i can post up more pics later if ppl want...i havent tried xbox hdmi yet... cant wait! are there any games yall would like to see on this tv via hdmi?

here is the second set... man i just realized these pics arent as sharp as i would like it... i think its my camera. crap. sorry ill take better pics using a diff cam next time with my xbox! please let me know what yall think. see ya ~ jim

Just picked up my HL-61A750 unit last Saturday and am going through the process of getting HD programming.
In the meantime while viewing standard def cable, I noticed a vertical bar moving from the bottom of the screen towards the top. It was a few shades lighter than the surrounding color and it was definitely more noticeable in dark backgrounds. For instance during the opening few minutes of 'Conan the Barbarian', while the sword is being forged it is a very dark scene and I could definitely see these bars scrolling through from bottom to top.
Has anyone else experienced this? Does the TV need servicing? What could be the cause?

Just picked up my HL-61A750 unit last Saturday and am going through the process of getting HD programming.
In the meantime while viewing standard def cable, I noticed a vertical bar moving from the bottom of the screen towards the top. It was a few shades lighter than the surrounding color and it was definitely more noticeable in dark backgrounds. For instance during the opening few minutes of 'Conan the Barbarian', while the sword is being forged it is a very dark scene and I could definitely see these bars scrolling through from bottom to top.
Has anyone else experienced this? Does the TV need servicing? What could be the cause?

This is probably feedback/noise being picked up from something. Could be another unit thats plugged into the loop, like PS3, DVD player or cable box. Might be dirty power and you may need a power filter like Belkin PF31, but I'd deff try unhooking one thing at a time and checking if the bar goes away.

man this thread is basically a 750 thread. WHere are all of the 650 owners to represent.:o

man this thread is basically a 750 thread. WHere are all of the 650 owners to represent.:o

Everyone wants LED. If you wanted a bulb set, I would go with the Darkchip 4 Mitsubishi. So, theres not to many 650 owners is my guess...

I asked at costco alsow about this tv. The guy went and looked it up and said it was model number HL67A510. It is not a LED tv but it shows up as one of samsungs "new" tvs on their web page. Anyone know anything about this tv? http://www.samsung.com/us/consumer/detail/detail.do?group=televisions&type=televisions&subtype=dlptv&model_cd=HL67A510J1FXZA

I looked at the PDF at that link and it stated it was a lamp type with 5 segment color wheel. So not a LED engine. Costco often has unique numbers for items it sells. In this case I believe it includes a stand. It also stated 2 HDMI inputs.So definatly not a 750.

for anyone looking for cheap hdmi cables... now is the time! THREE 6ft hdmi for 9 bux shipped.

http://www.meritline.com/193-142-003.html?id=2670

for anyone looking for cheap hdmi cables... now is the time! THREE 6ft hdmi for 9 bux shipped.

http://www.meritline.com/193-142-003.html?id=2670


I'll stick with Monoprice. Plus Monoprice is a forum sponsor.

meritline is a reliable site

man this thread is basically a 750 thread. WHere are all of the 650 owners to represent.:oThere are a few over here: 2008 Samsung HLxxA650 DLP Owners Thread/FAQ (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=13985050#post13985050)

being off topic...i have an onkyo tx-v940 (i know, its a dinosaur)that just went into protection mode...no sound is coming out the speakers, but i still have picture from video. can yall give me some advice or direct me to a forum that can help solve my problem? i googled the web, but havent found anything of help. if the parts cost too much, i might be better off buying another amp. thanks in advance for you help.

I'm sure you guys don't mind pics, so here are mine. :)

http://s281.photobucket.com/albums/kk212/jkeener71/HL67A750/

http://s281.photobucket.com/albums/kk212/jkeener71/

Goodness gracious. In the second row of pictures under SD it sure looks like the HL67A750 has one heck of a hot spot in the center of the picture. Noticed it in some of the other pictures as well.

Finally saw some of these sets in the stores, and usually set up next to some Mits' models.

I have to say, they all looked great to me, obviously on torch mode, and couldn't play with remotes to check on geometry. As set, I might give a very slight nod to the Mits, but not by enough to counter my desire for the advantages of LED.

They were all plenty bright, in semi-lit areas, close enough to the conditions in my own room, and the side viewing angles were adequate for my situation. I checked all the frames for flex, and the 67s were a little firmer than the 61s. The Mits were about the same, but one odd thing I noticed on a couple of the Mits was that when viewed at an extreme angle--much wider than a viewing angle--the reflection was "wavy" in a way that would indicate the screen wasn't really flat. This was at a CC that had them lined up Mits, Sammy, Mits, Sammy getting smaller in screen size down the line. It wasn't really noticeable from the front, but it looked quite odd from the extreme side angle.

Any way, I'll stick with Sammy--I've always liked them. Bur I may go for that gorgeous 72" (73"?)bulb model. That huge screen is just cool.

AS for the Mits laservues, I wanted to wait to check them out, but there's been no word in months on them. The guy at Ultimate Electronics told me he'd heard from Mits that the ballpark price for one of those was 6-8K for the 65 inch, and probably five figures for the 72. Unless I hear otherwise, and soon, I'll pass.

That's all for now.. :)

I'm sure you guys don't mind pics, so here are mine. :)

http://s281.photobucket.com/albums/kk212/jkeener71/HL67A750/

http://s281.photobucket.com/albums/kk212/jkeener71/

keener, can you tell me what your viewing distance is? what are the dimensions of the room this set is in. looks gorgeous.

I'm sure you guys don't mind pics, so here are mine. :)

http://s281.photobucket.com/albums/kk212/jkeener71/HL67A750/

http://s281.photobucket.com/albums/kk212/jkeener71/

I'm sure its fine but the pictures from the side make it look like the TV is tilted forward. Almost like its gonna fall right over.

Does the "A" suffix on some advertised models carry any significance on either the 61 or 67 inch versions? IOW should I shop for one with the "A" suffix?

I had dismissed DLP due to the mechanical aspect of the rotating color wheel but with this new LED lighting technology I think one of these models (not sure which size yet) will be my choice.

Thanks for any insight on these. I've learned a LOT reading the thousands of posts and feel a lot better equipped to make a decision.

does anyone know how watching bd at 1080p/24 looks on these sets. is there any judder?

I haven't seen any judder watching 1080/24 on my 67", and I watch alot of movies!
my player is ps3 :)

keener, can you tell me what your viewing distance is? what are the dimensions of the room this set is in. looks gorgeous.

17' x 14' I am about 12' away and its just about right. Thanks for the compliment, I do think the $2,200 which includes tax and 4 yr best buy warranty was well worth the money, i'm glad my bro left Target to work at Best Buy. :)


I'm sure its fine but the pictures from the side make it look like the TV is tilted forward. Almost like its gonna fall right over.

I did that in order to make my line of sight even to my Low-Rider couch lol. Its probably at 85 degrees angle right now.

AS for the Mits laservues, I wanted to wait to check them out, but there's been no word in months on them. The guy at Ultimate Electronics told me he'd heard from Mits that the ballpark price for one of those was 6-8K for the 65 inch, and probably five figures for the 72. Unless I hear otherwise, and soon, I'll pass.

That's all for now.. :)

The Mits Laservues are coming:
http://www.engadgethd.com/2008/06/25/mitsubishis-laservue-65-inch-and-75-inchers-due-this-fall/

In my opinion this TV is best bang for the buck. Screw paying 4K, 5K or more, when I can pay less than 2K and be happy as can be, and yeah you know I can use that saved money for other goodies.

How are the viewing angles on the 67a750s?

The laservue engadget article stated that it will reach 500 nits of brightness. What do the normal DLPs have in nits?

It would be nice to have some real info on price soon on Laservues. I may just by a 67 inch 67a750 for under two grand and wait a couple of years at this point for laser to perfect or die.

You just can't beat the niche that these DLP/LED's are filling. As the economy gets tougher, more and more folks will probably "see the light". :)

17' x 14' I am about 12' away and its just about right. Thanks for the compliment, I do think the $2,200 which includes tax and 4 yr best buy warranty was well worth the money, i'm glad my bro left Target to work at Best Buy. :)


:eek:

I couldn't get them to budge from the $2500 retail price last night. That is a sweet deal. I wish I still knew someone that worked for BestBuy.

The Mits Laservues are coming:
http://www.engadgethd.com/2008/06/25/mitsubishis-laservue-65-inch-and-75-inchers-due-this-fall/

Yup....

But for how much?

And are they better enough to justify it?

:eek:

I couldn't get them to budge from the $2500 retail price last night. That is a sweet deal. I wish I still knew someone that worked for BestBuy.

you'll have to try a couple of other Bestbuy stores on your area(25 mile radius).
Or do what I did. Reference one of the members here as your friend who got it for X amount. And they should match it no problem
I would be glad to provide you the info of the BB store I got mine at along with the sales man who sold it to me. Your BB should be able to check that and match it. IF not, try another BB or a CC.
Or just get it at amazon for 2049(i think its still that price) and get free delivery and pay no tax. Plus When they deliver , unbox and test it, if your not happy for ANY reason, just refuse the delivery, and they will take it with them when they leave and Amazon will refund your money fully. Says so right on their site.

If cost is not a consideration, which would be better the HL61A750 or the HL67A750? Are the light engines and LED lamps the same in both sets? Or for equivalent light output, if both light engines and lamps are similar, you have to drive the 67" set at higher voltages and currents?

Since 1998 I've gone through 3 sets of large RPTVs.

1998 - Pioneer Elite PRO-100 50", 16:10 analog set, cost $3500, ISF calibrated $500, in 2000 it had a bad power supply and was replaced, I later sold it for $1000.

2000 - Pioneer Elite PRO-610 58", Cost $6500, ISF calibrated $650, sold for $300 in 2004.

2004 - Mitsubishi WD62525 62", Cost $4000, replaced bulb in 2006 $300, light engine replaced in 2007. Has wavy lines as light engine is having problems and soon needs a new bulb.

2008 - Thinking about the HL67A750, Cost $2400, I would like it to last 4 years.

What I've found over the years is that the bigger the set, the more they fail if you put a lot of hours on them. At this point I'm thinking about a 52" LCD.

The viewing angle is great, but it was not my prime thought when I bought the 61" LEdD model. I always sit in a prime location, right in front of it, 14 feet away. This is my bedroom TV, and I had a Sony 51" LCD rear projection that worked pretty well, until I saw this, it simply knocked my socks off.

How are the viewing angles on the 67a750s?

The laservue engadget article stated that it will reach 500 nits of brightness. What do the normal DLPs have in nits?

It would be nice to have some real info on price soon on Laservues. I may just by a 67 inch 67a750 for under two grand and wait a couple of years at this point for laser to perfect or die.

for those looking to buy the 67a750, 6ave has it in stock through amazon for a pretty good price.

If cost is not a consideration, which would be better the HL61A750 or the HL67A750? Are the light engines and LED lamps the same in both sets? Or for equivalent light output, if both light engines and lamps are similar, you have to drive the 67" set at higher voltages and currents?

Since 1998 I've gone through 3 sets of large RPTVs.

1998 - Pioneer Elite PRO-100 50", 16:10 analog set, cost $3500, ISF calibrated $500, in 2000 it had a bad power supply and was replaced, I later sold it for $1000.

2000 - Pioneer Elite PRO-610 58", Cost $6500, ISF calibrated $650, sold for $300 in 2004.

2004 - Mitsubishi WD62525 62", Cost $4000, replaced bulb in 2006 $300, light engine replaced in 2007. Has wavy lines as light engine is having problems and soon needs a new bulb.

2008 - Thinking about the HL67A750, Cost $2400, I would like it to last 4 years.

What I've found over the years is that the bigger the set, the more they fail if you put a lot of hours on them. At this point I'm thinking about a 52" LCD.

Well seeing as how the 67 would be the largest and cheapest RPTV set you have had to date and the ONLY one not requiring a Lamp since its LED based I would go for it.
Not to mention you can get it for around 2000- to 2100 if you shop smart. or rather know where to look and what to say.;)

yeah, what he said!

I'm pretty sure the light engine and LED's are all the same, and hence why nothing bigger in LED than 67" right now. I think they would need more light output to do anything bigger. So, I think you would be fine with the 61" or 67", and they should be more reliable than anything you've had before, as less moving parts, and no bulbs. But, stuff does break, so you may want to consider an extended warranty. I got the Mack one for like $125.

If cost is not a consideration, which would be better the HL61A750 or the HL67A750? Are the light engines and LED lamps the same in both sets? Or for equivalent light output, if both light engines and lamps are similar, you have to drive the 67" set at higher voltages and currents?

Since 1998 I've gone through 3 sets of large RPTVs.

1998 - Pioneer Elite PRO-100 50", 16:10 analog set, cost $3500, ISF calibrated $500, in 2000 it had a bad power supply and was replaced, I later sold it for $1000.

2000 - Pioneer Elite PRO-610 58", Cost $6500, ISF calibrated $650, sold for $300 in 2004.

2004 - Mitsubishi WD62525 62", Cost $4000, replaced bulb in 2006 $300, light engine replaced in 2007. Has wavy lines as light engine is having problems and soon needs a new bulb.

2008 - Thinking about the HL67A750, Cost $2400, I would like it to last 4 years.

What I've found over the years is that the bigger the set, the more they fail if you put a lot of hours on them. At this point I'm thinking about a 52" LCD.
but can you really go from a 62" to a 52"? For me I couldnt bare to have anything in my living room smaller than a 65".

Seems like you have been getting larger with each product. Those 2004 mits had some quality issues (as did all DLP/LCOS that year). Every manufacturer is getting better lifespan in the 4th and 5th generation DLPs.

And really 4-5 years is still decent but I think these newer 2008 models will last 6-7 years on the average.

but can you really go from a 62" to a 52"?
He's considering the HL67A750 - a 67" model.

Well, after being torn apart between buying a 61" or 67" for over a month, I've finally bit the bullet.
Even though, our room is medium size and 61" would suffice, I still went with 67" as at $250-300 difference, it seemed a better deal. If the price difference was 500 I'd have bought a smaller model.
Ideally, I'd love to have purchased the TV from "The River", but lately their price isn't as low as others' and they only have them in stock for a few days before selling out.

Vanns had a good deal on a 67 + Harmony Remote, so I went with them. Curbside delivery is free, white-glove is extra. Will let you folks know in a week or so ho everything went...

He's considering the HL67A750 - a 67" model.

No, We are trying to convince him to get the 67", he is actually considering a 52"LCD.
Reading is fundamental !
:D
j/k

If both the 61" & 67" have the same power supplies, lamps and light engines, then would it not be best to get the 61" as the load on these components would be less for the same amount of brightness? Can anyone who has the service manual please enlighten me?

I've come to the conclusion now that TVs are throw away items like computers and need replacement every 3-5 years. So it doesn't make sense to spend, like I did in past, over $5,000 on a new set.

The only reason I would consider a 52" LCD like the Sony W4100 is because I can get it for around $2400 and it would last me at least 3-4 years of relative trouble-free use. I'm tired of changing bulbs, cleaning mirrors, convergence and geometry issues. Extended warranties are hit and miss. It depends on the retailer and who he uses for service. If your new set breaks in 18 months and its out of operation for 2-4-6 weeks with someone who repairs it marginally, then its not worth it. I'd just as soon use my AMEX card and double the manufacturer's warranty to two years.

In home theater comparison, I've spent nearly $20,000 in audio, not including CD/DVD players, and that seems to have been a much much better return than the video portion.

Well, after being torn apart between buying a 61" or 67" for over a month, I've finally bit the bullet.
Even though, our room is medium size and 61" would suffice, I still went with 67" as at $250-300 difference, it seemed a better deal. If the price difference was 500 I'd have bought a smaller model.
Ideally, I'd love to have purchased the TV from "The River", but lately their price isn't as low as others' and they only have them in stock for a few days before selling out.


This is true, but the 67" may fail a year earlier than the 61" and therefore the difference may be more than $300 in the long term.

If both the 61" & 67" have the same power supplies, lamps and light engines, then would it not be best to get the 61" as the load on these components would be less for the same amount of brightness? Can anyone who has the service manual please enlighten me?

The 67" is pushing the light engine to it's limit. But most people find it has plenty of brightness. The "load" on the components is not a factor, either will perform well. In my own viewing tests, I found the 61" to have a slight edge in image sharpness, which is not unexpected. I find my 61" to be excessively bright some times, and so assume that the 67" is well equipped in that regard. It really boils down to your own preferences and demands. But I'd for sure not even contemplate spending the same price for a 52" Sony anything.

In the HL6xA750 owner's thread, the 1st post talks about power supply buzzing. Is this true and can it be confirmed? Is it heard on both the 61" & 67" about the same?

No, We are trying to convince him to get the 67", he is actually considering a 52"LCD.
Reading is fundamental !
:D
j/k
I see your smiley, but... Perhaps I missed an earlier post (or content in another thread?), but the reply to his post definitely didn't make sense as he said "2008 - Thinking about the HL67A750, Cost $2400,". Looking ahead and back several pages in this thread, he only makes one reference to a 52" LCD and it doesn't really sound like he's seriously considering it ("the only way I'd consider...").

I'm being offered the HL61A750 brand new in box for $1750 before tax from a local Brick & Mortar shop. I was informed that the 67" could not be sold for lower than $2070.

The 61" appears slightly brighter and the picture appears sharp - once properly setup, it rivals many other higher end LCDs or plasmas in terms of color accuracy sharpness and motion smoothness. There is however very slight warping/bowing of the screen in the upper corners, but hardly noticeable. It depends on how the light hits it.

I'm going for the 61", any reason not to?

I'm being offered the HL61A750 brand new in box for $1750 before tax from a local Brick & Mortar shop. I was informed that the 67" could not be sold for lower than $2070.

The 61" appears slightly brighter and the picture appears sharp - once properly setup, it rivals many other higher end LCDs or plasmas in terms of color accuracy sharpness and motion smoothness. There is however very slight warping/bowing of the screen in the upper corners, but hardly noticeable. It depends on how the light hits it.

I'm going for the 61", any reason not to?

yeah here is 1 reason i cant think of..
hl-67A750

I had a 61 and returned it for the 67 and just got it setup tonight.
Very glad I did.. Others have done this as well.
Much more rigid Frame/Bezel around the screen , and far less issues with geometry being off thus far. But dont take my word alone, Let the others chime in as well! and goodluck with which ever you get!

I see your smiley, but... Perhaps I missed an earlier post (or content in another thread?), but the reply to his post definitely didn't make sense as he said "2008 - Thinking about the HL67A750, Cost $2400,". Looking ahead and back several pages in this thread, he only makes one reference to a 52" LCD and it doesn't really sound like he's seriously considering it ("the only way I'd consider...").

I was going by this original post of his (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showpost.php?p=14164706&postcount=4139)
and this is what I read:
"2008 - Thinking about the HL67A750, Cost $2400, I would like it to last 4 years.

What I've found over the years is that the bigger the set, the more they fail if you put a lot of hours on them. At this point I'm thinking about a 52" LCD."

No biggie , but just to clarify.. It seemed to me, how I read it anyway, that he WAS thinking about the 67a750, but wants it to last 4 years and so feels reluctant since he may put a lot of hours on it(ie. feels as though it will fail. so instead he is now thinking of a 52" Lcd which he feels will last longer, or least be trouble free and last during the same time period of usage.
either way.. the point is to get him to join us on the dark side of the force, in front of the bright side of a LED DLP, Value sized (61) or super sized (67) ;)

I haven't heard any issue with buzzing on my 67 inch. From what I understand it's only on certain scenes and in dynamic mode, and the TV essentially needs to be on mute to hear it. I've got pretty keen ears, though, and while I do think there have been some times I have heard just the slightest "TV whine" out of it, it has been with the set muted while shifting through menu items - as in when the highlighter moves from item to item there was a barely imperceptible high pitched buzzing blip. I never thought much of it other than, "Huh" and haven't really noticed it again. Never had an issue with any sound from the TV while actually watching it day-to-day, but I haven't displayed any lengthy extremely bright scenes. I have watched daytime college baseball games in dynamic mode for kicks a few times and never heard anything.

As I've said previously, I do think proper distance is perhaps a little more important for viewing this screen due to its size in terms of illumination. I notice more dark/uneven spots up close than I do at a decent distance. Move back a ways and the screen becomes evenly bright with no problems that I can see. I'm currently sitting at just 8 to 10 feet, and though I'm not seeing 'grain' at that distance (not including some SD content, obviously, on a 67 inch screen) I do think in terms of getting the most even illumination I'm probably a few feet too close. Still looks great, but just a few feet further back and it's golden. (I bought the 67 with the intent that it will be further away in a new house in a few months.)

I can see the attraction of the 61 in terms of being slightly brighter and sharper, if only in large part because the screen is not so massive and the types of flaws I'm seeing (again, mostly with non-HD content) would be minimized. (And I'm not sold yet on the importance of any difference in brightness, I can crank the brightness clearly too high on the 67 as it is.) On the other hand, I'm not regretting the 67 at all, even versus the 58 inch Sammy plasma I nearly bought.

In the HL6xA750 owner's thread, the 1st post talks about power supply buzzing. Is this true and can it be confirmed? Is it heard on both the 61" & 67" about the same?

That was my first set. My second one didn't do it. I also recall one other person saying they heard buzzing, and again, only in Dynamic Mode. I wouldn't worry about it, I don't think it is an issue that is at all common.

Will this set take the top spot from our beloved Samsun LED Engine DLP sets?



http://www.electronichouse.com/article/mitsubishi_launches_laser_based_dlp_hdtvs/

I wrote to the guy who wrote this article and this was his reply:

Joseph,

Thanks for your note. LaserVue looked terrific, however, I firmly believe that the 61-in. Samsung LED using PhlatLight technology is among the best sets currently available on the market. I think that you made an excellent choice. My guess is that LaserVue will cost in the $5,000 range for a 65-in.. In the end, it makes the Samsung sets a "Best Buy" in my book.

Thanks for reading.

I'm being offered the HL61A750 brand new in box for $1750 before tax from a local Brick & Mortar shop. I was informed that the 67" could not be sold for lower than $2070.

The 61" appears slightly brighter and the picture appears sharp - once properly setup, it rivals many other higher end LCDs or plasmas in terms of color accuracy sharpness and motion smoothness. There is however very slight warping/bowing of the screen in the upper corners, but hardly noticeable. It depends on how the light hits it.

I'm going for the 61", any reason not to?

I got my 67" from a local shop who matched the then Amazon price of $1998. So it's more than possible to get the 67" for less than $2070. On top of that we didn't pay tax, and the store will continue to price match for two months.

I got my 67" from a local shop who matched the then Amazon price of $1998. So it's more than possible to get the 67" for less than $2070. On top of that we didn't pay tax, and the store will continue to price match for two months.

how did you get out of paying tax?

This is my first post here. It took quite awhile to get thru 4k+ posts...lol. I stopped by my local Sound Advice yesterday as the BB and CC did not have the 67 A750 on display only the 61". At Sound Advice they only had the 67" on display. It was in the dim lighted area like BB does with the Mits. They have it connected to a Blue Ray DVD and a high end sound system. ALso the manager said he had calibrated it also. The picture was awesome although it had noticeable tilt, which I pointed out.(He had not noticed it). I don't see how. Did not notice any bowing though. He siad that prior to calibration it had a "hot spot" in the center but that fixed it. They are selling them for $2199 which beats BB and CC here by $300. Also, 18 month no interest or payment financing. I was at BB Sat. and while I was inquiring about them putting out a 67" for display I mentioned to the dept. mgr about geometry issues with the Sammies. He said he has not had any come back. I wonder how many they are selling? SA has another shipment coming Jul 1st. and I am thinking about finally pulling the trigger.They price match for 30 days and do the warranty servicing in house which is good.

In the HL6xA750 owner's thread, the 1st post talks about power supply buzzing. Is this true and can it be confirmed? Is it heard on both the 61" & 67" about the same?

I got a HL61A50 from the "big drainage ditch" several weeks ago. Was hoping to be lucky but seemed to have been hit with the whole smorgasboard of issues.

Samsung promptly sent a tech out who corrected some of the issues. He ordered a new power supply and light engine to correct the others.

1) Geometry. 1.5" tilt which he was able to correct. Center off by 1" which I hadn't complained about but he corrected.

2) "Convergence" issues. I know it isn't really convergence but along white edges, lettering in either 1080p or VGA mode, etc. have a red-green-blue appearance on the right edge. This makes text blurry. Also, along the top edge - roughly from the center to the right corner - there is a red "strip". Not as noticeable during normal viewing, quite noticeable using HTPC and calibration grids.

3) Left side blur. Another issue I noted but was prepared to live with. Tech said that the set SHOULD NOT have any bluriness in those quadrants.

4) Buzz from power supply. Has gotten steadily worse with use. Quite noticeable in DYNAMIC mode. Worse, strangely, in the WISELINK mode (USB access).

Other than the power supply, it appears that most of my issues are related to either improper assembly or a damaged light engine.

Still have about 10 days to send back up the River. Right now I think I'll continue to give Samsung the opportunity to correct the set.

You do know that the picture can be adjusted to whatever brightness you want. I found that mine was adjusted to be very bright as well, so I customized the picture to what I like.
What's amazing is that this is LED brightness, not light bulb brightness.

Joe

The 67" is pushing the light engine to it's limit. . I find my 61" to be excessively bright some times,

Is anyone reading that is in front of their Samsung LEd DlP, who can try this method of entering the service menu to make fine adjustments to the TV?

Unit is off= on the remoter press "mute" "1" "8" "2" then "Power" once the unit powers up press the up or down arrow and the service menu will appear

how did you get out of paying tax?

Some states do not have sales tax

Is anyone reading that is in front of their Samsung LEd DlP, who can try this method of entering the service menu to make fine adjustments to the TV?

Unit is off= on the remoter press "mute" "1" "8" "2" then "Power" once the unit powers up press the up or down arrow and the service menu will appearAfter pressing the "Power" button, there is no need to press either of the arrow keys. The usual warnings: 1. " Entering the service menu to make fine adjustments to the TV" can leave you with an expensive brick. 2. Entering the service menu resets all User Menu settings to factory defaults.

FWIW.

I received my HL50A650 set a few days ago and I noticed some bowing on the top and bottom of the screen. I called Samsung and they sent out a tech a couple of days ago. After pulling up test patterns from the service menu and fiddling with the cabinet....he said this this type of "bowing" is within factory standards and is normal for these type of DLP HDTVs.

Below are pictures I took after loading some test patterns from my USB drive. Can you DLP expert folks please examine the graphs and let me know if everything checks out good and if the bowing and geometry is "normal" and if I should consider asking Samsung for a replacement Or just stick with what I have because the next model might be even worse.

Thanks. :)

WOW, your Geo looks pretty damn good. IMO that is MINIMAL at best.. its also safe to say I would rather trust the Test images/screens in the service menu rather than that of images on a thumb drive. They are a good jumping off point, but the crosshatch in the service menu is what I use to be definitive.

WOW, your Geo looks pretty damn good. IMO that is MINIMAL at best.. .

I suppose the crucial question is how does this amount of bowing actually affect the viewing experience? Probably the most demanding test would be news channels with a moving banner. It would be interesting how one of these looks.

Just picked up my HL-61A750 unit last Saturday and am going through the process of getting HD programming.
In the meantime while viewing standard def cable, I noticed a vertical bar moving from the bottom of the screen towards the top. It was a few shades lighter than the surrounding color and it was definitely more noticeable in dark backgrounds. For instance during the opening few minutes of 'Conan the Barbarian', while the sword is being forged it is a very dark scene and I could definitely see these bars scrolling through from bottom to top.
Has anyone else experienced this? Does the TV need servicing? What could be the cause?

Picked up a Monster Home Theater Power Center with Clean Power and MAN! OH MAN! what a difference. No more scrolling bars on certain channels.
I was skeptical at first at what kind of difference it would make but it was well worth the money.

If you are experiencing a sub par picture and you haev done everything you can to tweak it, try this. It really makes a difference.

I received my HL50A650 set a few days ago and I noticed some bowing on the top and bottom of the screen. I called Samsung and they sent out a tech a couple of days ago. After pulling up test patterns from the service menu and fiddling with the cabinet....he said this this type of "bowing" is within factory standards and is normal for these type of DLP HDTVs.

Below are pictures I took after loading some test patterns from my USB drive. Can you DLP expert folks please examine the graphs and let me know if everything checks out good and if the bowing and geometry is "normal" and if I should consider asking Samsung for a replacement Or just stick with what I have because the next model might be even worse.

Thanks. :)

If it were me, I would be very pleased with those test pattern results. You won't notice any issues on an active picture; even with the "crawls" on a news channel.

If it were me, I would be very pleased with those test pattern results. You won't notice any issues on an active picture; even with the "crawls" on a news channel.

Thanks. I was thinking of picking up a DVE: HD Basics (Blu-ray) calibration disc....but I'm not sure if it's worth it or not. I'm not sure what difference, if any, this calibration disc will make on my PICTURE QUALITY.

Has anyone used the "DVE: HD Basics" to calibrate their DLP and do you recommend it? Does it come with the red/green/blue films (if not, are they needed?).

Currently hooked up to my Samsung A650 DLP is a Playstation 3 (via HDMI) and a satellite STB (also via HDMI). Will the DVE calibration disc work to improve my satellite-to-TV picture quality OR will it only work for the PS3 since the display is being fed from that source?

Any suggestions is very much appreciated. I'm a total "newbie" when it comes to calibration discs/methods. Thanks.

I loved the results on my TV from using DVE. Avia is also great. They both come with the RGB Gels to help you calibrate the set. The question you have to ask is do you want a realistic picture or one that "pops". A calibrate set looks more realistic but you don't get that overexposed and deep black exaggerated looking picture.

For the most part if you read a lot the videos aren't that useful other then the test patterns. They both also help calibrate your audio system as well.

I loved the results on my TV from using DVE. Avia is also great. They both come with the RGB Gels to help you calibrate the set. The question you have to ask is do you want a realistic picture or one that "pops". A calibrate set looks more realistic but you don't get that overexposed and deep black exaggerated looking picture.

For the most part if you read a lot the videos aren't that useful other then the test patterns. They both also help calibrate your audio system as well.

Thanks for your feedback. When using DVE to calibrate....do you just make adjustments from the standard picture settings menu (ie picture mode, sharpness, contrast, brightness, color temp, detailed settings, picture options, etc)....OR do you have to go into the Service Menu and calibrate from there?

Are any of these models capable of 5:5 pulldown from a 1080p24 source? Or do the just do the usual 3:2 pulldown and then double to get 120 Hz. Thanks in advance for any information.

Are any of these models capable of 5:5 pulldown from a 1080p24 source? Or do the just do the usual 3:2 pulldown and then double to get 120 Hz. Thanks in advance for any information.


I'm not sure we have a definitve answer on that one, but the consensus seems to be that a 24P signal has each frame reproduced 5 times with no interpolation or inserted frames, no 3:2.

30 HZ signal has its frames 4 times per.

I think that's what you mean by 5:5 pulldown?

It's actually much simpler than doing 3:2, which is probably why we assume that's what's being done.

It's actually much simpler than doing 3:2, which is probably why we assume that's what's being done.

moonhawk,
Thank you for responding to my question. Yes, by "5:5 pulldown" I mean repeating each frame 5 times (from a 1080/24p signal). I agree, it is much "simpler" than doing 3:2 and then doubling to get the 120Hz, and it avoids the "judder" caused by the 3:2 pulldown. However, most other TVs capable of 120Hz unfortunately do not yet do it the simple way. Nearly all other 120Hz TVs use the the usual 3:2 pulldown to get 60 then double each frame to get 120. (To avoid judder, Pioneer plasmas use repeat each frame 3 times, 3:3 and some Sony and JVC projectors repeat each frame 4 times operating at 96Hz.)
This is why I wanted to find out if anyone had a definitive answer which way these models work. I haven't been able to find out. And I honestly doubt that calling Samsung would be of much use. Thanks in advance to anyone who may be able to shed any light on this question.

how did you get out of paying tax?

You know, I'm not totally sure. It wasn't something we knew about when we went in to do the buying.

As I understood it it had to do with that we were from another state, and that meant that we would only pay tax if we had one of their stores near us in our state. We don't (we only live about twenty minutes from the store, there just happens to be a border in there) have one of their stores near us in our state, so they said we didn't have to pay tax.

Well I have an update on my remote not working issue. Seems that the issue occurs when the unit becomes "warm" after a while (standard TV viewing). The tech came out this morning and wants to replace the main board. He stated that he thinks it was not my fault since the room is cool and the TV has open access on all sides. My only concern is how hard is a board swap and why wouldn't samsung merely replace the entire TV instead of dealing with this mess?

Well I have an update on my remote not working issue. Seems that the issue occurs when the unit becomes "warm" after a while (standard TV viewing). The tech came out this morning and wants to replace the main board. He stated that he thinks it was not my fault since the room is cool and the TV has open access on all sides. My only concern is how hard is a board swap and why wouldn't samsung merely replace the entire TV instead of dealing with this mess?

My last TV had bad calibration settings that they tried to fix by swapping out the board.. That's another story, but the answer is the board swap is very simple.. if you are familiar with swapping out a hard drive in a computer - it's almost just as simple - save for a few wires.. Your light engine will not even be touched..

6ave.com is carrying this 67" DLP Projection TV for $1988.00
During checkout, apply 6% off sitewide coupon code "SUMMER7108" on it (Expires 07/07/2008)
6ave.com is offering Free Shipping on this item
Your Final Price: $1988.00 - 6% = $1868.72 + Free Shipping

This may be decidedly unscientific, but if Samsung had actually cared about making a decent products, we would not be seeing these problems. TV technology has gotten to the point where no matter how much someone spends, or what display tech they go with, they always have to settle. Things are way out of control when screens are bowed out the box, when many of the claimed specs are nothing but worthless numbers, and people have to make service calls on the same day they get the TV. Anyways, this is just my opinion. Later.

i've never had a problem with any of my many samsung products (5 tv's now including the 67")

6ave.com is carrying this 67" DLP Projection TV for $1988.00
During checkout, apply 6% off sitewide coupon code "SUMMER7108" on it (Expires 07/07/2008)
6ave.com is offering Free Shipping on this item
Your Final Price: $1988.00 - 6% = $1868.72 + Free Shipping

Wow. This sounds almost too good to pass up. Here's my only hesitation:

Hey great is the chance that the TV will get messed up during the delivery (bowing, etc.)? I've heard some people say it's worth it to them to spend a little more at a brick-and-mortar store to have the security of seeing the set in person and having it safely delivered without any issues.

My biggest fear is having to return the TV and drag out the process.

What's the typical experience with 6ave, Vann's, etc? Are most here who have ordered from them generally happy?

I'm fairly new here, and this is my first leap into HDTV, so bear with me. Thanks!

jb

Thanks for your feedback. When using DVE to calibrate....do you just make adjustments from the standard picture settings menu (ie picture mode, sharpness, contrast, brightness, color temp, detailed settings, picture options, etc)....OR do you have to go into the Service Menu and calibrate from there?

This is where it gets tricky. I only used the standard adjustments menu (movie mode, warm2, contrast, brightness, color..) to calibrate my set. However, this leads to a compromise on a lot of the color calibrations. I was unable to get all of the three colors calibrated at the same time using only the main controls. I could get one or two of them right, but it was next to impossible to get all three dead on. You can get much more accurate results using the SM, but I didn't feel comfortable going in there and poking around. So, I was able to "mostly" calibrate my set, but I was not able to get every color correct at the same time.

(I have the 6187s, so you might have more controls with the newer model set)

"This may be decidedly unscientific, but if Samsung had actually cared about making a decent products, we would not be seeing these problems."

Go to any other technology's forum and into any other manufacturer's thread, replace "Samsung" with that manufacturer's name, and you'll be right at home.

6ave.com is carrying this 67" DLP Projection TV for $1988.00
During checkout, apply 6% off sitewide coupon code "SUMMER7108" on it (Expires 07/07/2008)
6ave.com is offering Free Shipping on this item
Your Final Price: $1988.00 - 6% = $1868.72 + Free Shipping

thanks, I called them and they adjusted my price....I just bought it from them last week.

For the person asking about 6ave's service, mine was delivered yesterday, and the box didn't even have a ding on it. I'm not extremely sensitive to bowing or geometry issues. All the shipping is handled by 3rd party freighters.

hi everyone im thinking about getting the 67inch come winter so that prices go down. I currently have the pioneer 42inch (pdp 4271) in my living room and I only have two questions...

I really dont get alot of light in my apartment so im worried that the HL67A750 will give a somewhat off black color. Been hearing about brightness levels and etc...

lastly im confused about the 120hz. I hear its always at 120Hz with purecinema but the display says 60Hz. If so how is the 3;2 pulldown? Do Hd content from cable boxes (component) to ps3-360 (hdmi) look good...

thanks for your time... Ill be sitting about 10-13 feet away and like i said I dont get that much light coming in.... all in all my only concern are the black levels...

again thank you for your time..

thanks, I called them and they adjusted my price....I just bought it from them last week.

For the person asking about 6ave's service, mine was delivered yesterday, and the box didn't even have a ding on it. I'm not extremely sensitive to bowing or geometry issues. All the shipping is handled by 3rd party freighters.

Awesome! Glad I could help.

know that the 67a750, has bin out for a while now has it lived up to expectations as far as build and quality compared to other tv and the 61a750. i am very interested in the 67 inch but im scared i have never owned a dlp before wich may cause me to stick to lcd

know that the 67a750, has bin out for a while now has it lived up to expectations as far as build and quality compared to other tv and the 61a750. i am very interested in the 67 inch but im scared i have never owned a dlp before wich may cause me to stick to lcd

IF you don't want to pay for a much higher price for a LCD past 60" you definately have no other choice to go for but for a LED DLP. The only possible objections with LED DLP are the narrower viewing angle, especially vertical, and not as wall mountable. That's up to you if you find those details too annoying. In my opinion, the faster turn on time and much cooler operating temperature of LED DLPs does more than make up for any possible objections mentioned above.

my tr72 stand came in from amazon today

on the big piece (top shelf), there was some slight damage at the rear (a couple nicks). I called pinnacle (the stand manufacturer), and I requested that they send me a new top shelf -- we'll see how this goes.

I can say without hesitation that once the stand is assembled and the tv is sitting on it, this thing is going to look gorgeous. It looks like ass right now on my coffee table, but I can wait a few more days (hopefully that's all it is).

I have to use 27-30" TV stand for my next TV and would like to hear an opinion on viewing angle of HL67A750 TV.

Based on one person post about raising sofa and replacing TV stand in similar situation, the vertical viewing angle seems to be below 20 degrees.
It is certainly way off Samsung published 60 degree and being the same for all LED and light bulb models.

There is a difference between possible to watch angle and enoying to watch angle, I would prefer to hear the opinion about the last one.

My seating distance is 9" away

I was ready to pul a trigger on 67" LED, but that post put me in more research mode.

Any comments would be greatly appreciated.

Which HDMI cable am I going to need to hook up this tv to a comcast digital cable box? Thanks.

Which HDMI cable am I going to need to hook up this tv to a comcast digital cable box? Thanks.

Try 6ft one.

Just order one from Monoprice or Blue Jeans Cable. They're both site sponsors and have great deals on HDMI cables. I just got a HL50A650 and purchased the 6ft Black HDMI cable from Monoprice for about $4 plus shipping. Quality is superb and I don't notice a difference between it and more expensive cables. Just whatever you do don't go out and buy Monster Cables, they're overpriced and overrated.

Is it just a male to male end? I guess I was asking what end is on the tv and what is on the comcast box?

Could you post a link of the cable you bought? Thanks.

Any comments would be greatly appreciated.

Try 6ft one. :rolleyes:

Is a male to male cable the one I need?

For my HL67A750, I bought the black Plateau-CRX-2V-64 (http://www.dynamichomedecor.com/Plateau-CRX-2V-64.html) for $379.99 after using the 5% "summer-fun" coupon code and shipped free. It fits my TV perfectly and looks great! I think the stand is about 1.5 inches wider on both sides of the TV.

Is it just a male to male end? I guess I was asking what end is on the tv and what is on the comcast box?

Could you post a link of the cable you bought? Thanks.

Yeah its a male/male end. Here's the link HDMI 1.3a Category 2 Certified Cable 28AWG - 6ft w/Ferrite Cores (Gold Plated Connectors) - BLACK (http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10240&cs_id=1024008&p_id=3992&seq=1&format=2)

I just pulled the trigger on the 67" LED tonight at BB. With their 12% coupon I got it for a few dollars higher than the Big River price. Of course I still had to pay taxes, but they had 2 years no interest and triple reward points. Plus I didn't want to go through the shipping hassle if I had a tilt or major bowing problem, like my 2005 Samsung DLP did.

We've had a HL67A750 for about a week and I have really been happy with everything about it. Tonight while watching a movie on Dish, it shut itself off then right back on. It has firmware 1006.1. Is that a known problem with that version? I thought I had read that an earlier firmware version had fixed that.
We also bought a LN46A650 the same day that I was more concerned with the shutting off problem from what I had read, but so far that TV has worked perfectly.
These are the first Samsung products I've ever owned, and so far I'm pretty impressed

Strangely, Samsung still shows 1005.3 as the latest firmware. Sounds like with 1006.1 they have re-introduced the bug they had corrected. No problems to report for my 67A750 with 1005.3 after 7 weeks of use.

Instead of keeping multiple threads running on the same models, wouldn't it make more sense to close this one, and take all discussion to the appropriate model thread, A650 or A750?

Is it just a male to male end? I guess I was asking what end is on the tv and what is on the comcast box?

Could you post a link of the cable you bought? Thanks.

I just got Comcast to put digital boxes and 1 HD box and 1 HD DVR in my house, and while i havent bought my big set yet that i will use the HDMI connection for, first of all, make sure you HAVE a HDMI connection on the box or DVR from Comcast. They originally brought my HD DVR without an HDMI connection, so i made them bring a different one that has it, and it takes a male plug on the Comcast HD DVR box. Right now i have the 2 HD boxes set up with Samsung sets, one temporarily in the den thats only 23" (this one goes in the bedroom when i get my big set which will be a 61" LED DLP Sammy real soon), and the other is set up with a 32" Sammy (both are LCD sets), and the picture on the HD channels is amazing, and in particular, ESPN and ESPN2 seem to be even better than the others, and the others look perfect. Since those are the 2 channels i will watching a lot of, thats great, but so far i am super happy with the Comcast HD, but as i said, make sure you tell them to bring HD boxes or DVR's that have the HDMI connectability.

By the way, what are you guys who have tube sets doing with them? I have a 36" Toshiba, and i am keeping it in the room that i am putting the big set in, i have it hooked up to a Comcast digital cable box, and it will be my ultimate PIP. Its funny the way it works, when i change the HD DVR box channel, it changes the Toshiba set too, but i can change the Toshiba set back to the channel i had on it without affecting the other set if hold the remote at just the right angle. This way i can watch tv or a movie with my wife on the new big Sammy, and have a sporting event on the 36" toshiba tube set with the sound off at the same time. I almost sold the set real cheap until i came up with this idea, and it works great, and since i already had the set it didnt cost any money, so i wonder if anyone else is doing this?

Hello, i have been reading this forum for a while now and have learned alot i am debating between the 61 inch and 67 inch LED samsung tv.. i have a 55' phillips that i got almost 4 years ago and it is due for the 4th repair and since i have the extended warrenty i will be getting the lemon policy and will be getting a new tv.. from price wise they will give me the 56'.. i want to upgrade to the 61 .. debating 67 since it is currently 2350 at BB.. i have to buy at BB.. wondering any tips or suggestions anyone can give me for my purchase and how much BB works on price.. i am trying to wait as close to august 14th ( to when my warrently expires) for price to go down and i am goin to use a 10% coupon..any tips will be appreciated

I just got my 67" set up and after about being on for 40 minutes I had the same issue. How do find which firmware you have? Anyone have this issue with a new 67" in the last couple weeks?

We've had a HL67A750 for about a week and I have really been happy with everything about it. Tonight while watching a movie on Dish, it shut itself off then right back on. It has firmware 1006.1. Is that a known problem with that version? I thought I had read that an earlier firmware version had fixed that.
We also bought a LN46A650 the same day that I was more concerned with the shutting off problem from what I had read, but so far that TV has worked perfectly.
These are the first Samsung products I've ever owned, and so far I'm pretty impressed

For my HL67A750, I bought the black Plateau-CRX-2V-64 (http://www.dynamichomedecor.com/Plateau-CRX-2V-64.html) for $379.99 after using the 5% "summer-fun" coupon code and shipped free. It fits my TV perfectly and looks great! I think the stand is about 1.5 inches wider on both sides of the TV.

Is the middle shelf support removable on that stand?

I just got my 67" set up and after about being on for 40 minutes I had the same issue. How do find which firmware you have? Anyone have this issue with a new 67" in the last couple weeks?

In the menu go to Setup, then go down to SW Upgrade, and press info button on remote. On bottom of screen it will say something like
Module: T- Ambausc- 1006.1 or whatever number your firmware is.

Ok, here's a couple of shots of my 67" setup and the OmniMount G-362 stand.♠

http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k90/elfman12/stand1.jpg
http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k90/elfman12/stand2.jpg

The specs say the bottom shelf can only support 50 pounds. Is that a misprint? My components will weigh much more than 50 pounds that I need to put on the bottom shelf.
It looks like you have well over 50 pounds too.

What do you guys recommend for a blue ray player for the 750's tvs? Thanks.

What do you guys recommend for a blue ray player for the 750's tvs? Thanks.

ps3 is the best and most upgradable bluray player out there..simple as that. If you get one that has a noisy fan, call Sony warranty and they'll swap it out with a quiet one within a week...or exchange it at the store till you get one you like.

In the menu go to Setup, then go down to SW Upgrade, and press info button on remote. On bottom of screen it will say something like
Module: T- Ambausc- 1006.1 or whatever number your firmware is.

Going to Samsungs website to download the lastest firmware upgrade (sorry I cant post a link yet) it is indicated as a windows procedure only. If you have stuffit expander on your Mac you can decompress the .exe file and put the folder on a usb stick and the upgrade will work fine following the rest of the instructions. At least it did for me. This upgrades you to 1005.3. My set (HL67A750) was made in May and had version 1004.

I noticed that there appears to be a review of the HL61A750 at ***************.com in this thread (http://www.***************.com/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/141219/). When I go there, I get a database error at the top of the page, and no content below. Does anyone know if the review is thorough, positive, negative, or what?

By the way, what are you guys who have tube sets doing with them? I have a 36" Toshiba, and i am keeping it in the room that i am putting the big set in, i have it hooked up to a Comcast digital cable box, and it will be my ultimate PIP.

Wouldn't that technically be POP? :D

It would be nice to see some professional reviews of this set. Seems like they are ignoring rear projection all together.

61" is way to big for my small living. But i did want to have an LED based set. Have any of you heard of any rumors or links talking about a smaller screen for the series 7 lEcd DLPs. Or is 61 the smallest they come due to the LED characteristics? If so a650 is must be....

Thanks for the help.

Hope you all had a fun weekend!!

This creating cd's off the computer with certain specs and in certain ways is way beyond the abilities of many low-tech people, including me.

Does Samsung offer cds's with the firmware on them? I am sure a ton of people would gladly buy them. I know a lot of people who never even heard of firmware.

61" is way to big for my small living. But i did want to have an LED based set. Have any of you heard of any rumors or links talking about a smaller screen for the series 7 lEcd DLPs. Or is 61 the smallest they come due to the LED characteristics? If so a650 is must be....

Thanks for the help.

Hope you all had a fun weekend!!

Samsung made smaller LED DLPs in the past, but has presumably discontinued them because the only place they have an advantage over the "trendier" flat panels is in very large screens.

Maybe you should look at LCDs or plasmas if you need a smaller screen?

OTOH, think of the glories of a huge screen size watching NFL games or whatever. :D:cool:

61" is way to big for my small living. But i did want to have an LED based set. Have any of you heard of any rumors or links talking about a smaller screen for the series 7 lEcd DLPs. Or is 61 the smallest they come due to the LED characteristics? If so a650 is must be....
Buy the 750 61" and enjoy its amazing panorama. In about 3 weeks you won't even notice how large the screen is. Instead, you'll be smiling at how beautiful the PQ is! Promise.

I will be getting my HL61A750 tomorrow! I have two concerns :

1) I have a built in cabinet and the TV is almost an exact fit with very little wiggle room. So I want to hook up all the cables I need and might need in future and have them dangling below the TV so they are easily accessible.

I plan to use it as a 80% computer monitor and 20% TV. I will hook up my desktop to it and I might want to connect my macbook pro once in a while.

Can I potentially use two HDMI ports, one for my desktop and one for my macbook? (I do NOT plan to use them at the same time but I don't want to hassle with unhooking the desktop and re-attaching to laptop. All the spaces for the computer and TV is very tight and it's a big pain. Also, I want to buy all my cables and have them all ready for the future.

Can two HDMI connections be used for two different computers?

2) Viewing angle. the built in cabinet is higher than the recommended height by at least 6-12 inches. My eye level is probably at the bottom of the TV. Will that be a problem?

thanks.

I asked at costco alsow about this tv. The guy went and looked it up and said it was model number HL67A510. It is not a LED tv but it shows up as one of samsungs "new" tvs on their web page. Anyone know anything about this tv? http://www.samsung.com/us/consumer/detail/detail.do?group=televisions&type=televisions&subtype=dlptv&model_cd=HL67A510J1FXZA



Yeah, I saw it displayed today. I couldn't get a good look at the picture because they had a dvd player incorrectly set up as a 4:3 display. You know how that looks right? The movie was 2.35:1 so there was 25% black bars on top and bottom and only 50% picture in the middle and everything was stretched. Other than that, it was great!

Does anyone know if this would be equivalent to a 650 series, only in a 67" size?

Yeah, I saw it displayed today. I couldn't get a good look at the picture because they had a dvd player incorrectly set up as a 4:3 display. You know how that looks right? The movie was 2.35:1 so there was 25% black bars on top and bottom and only 50% picture in the middle and everything was stretched. Other than that, it was great!

Does anyone know if this would be equivalent to a 650 series, only in a 67" size?


Is this last years model revamped for sale at Costco? Hasn't Samsung done this in the past?
The cabinet dimensions resemble the dimensions from last year since the 67" 510 is 19.1" deep and 62.4" wide.
Plus it lists a contrast ratio of 10000:1 like last years models did while all the other lamp models this year list 2500:1

The picture on 61" A750 that I saw was dark. The picture was darker at the top of the screen than at the bottom, but even at the bottom the picture was dark. Compared to the Sony 52" XBR LCD sitting next to it there was no comparison. Not only was it dark it was also muddy. Where the LCD had bright whites the Samsung had a light mocha. At first I thought it was the angle that I was looking at it so I changed viewing angles with the same results. I also noticed that even when I stood directly in front of the screen it was still dark and the LCD next to it was bright. I asked the salesperson about that and he said the LCD's are much brighter than the DLP's. I am really surprised anybody is buying these sets.

The picture on 61" A750 that I saw was dark. The picture was darker at the top of the screen than at the bottom, but even at the bottom the picture was dark. Compared to the Sony 52" XBR LCD sitting next to it there was no comparison. Not only was it dark it was also muddy. Where the LCD had bright whites the Samsung had a light mocha. At first I thought it was the angle that I was looking at it so I changed viewing angles with the same results. I also noticed that even when I stood directly in front of the screen it was still dark and the LCD next to it was bright. I asked the salesperson about that and he said the LCD's are much brighter than the DLP's. I am really surprised anybody is buying these sets.

Well one it was an uncalibrated set. Two, if you go into 5 different stores they will all look different. I looked at them in several differnt stores, some were super bright, some were dim. It really depended on what settings they put the TV on. If you had access to the remote you could have adjusted the brightness and settings and you would see how bright it actually is and how much a difference those settings make. But this has always been true with TVs on display. It's true with LCD and Plasma sets too.. And then of course the video feed is also a factor. I've seen sets connected with a composite and Svideo connection next to one with an HDMI, and surpise, the one with HDMI looks much better(both showing HD content but of course one is only SD and one is in HD). It seems like they do this to make a certain set look better than others. I guess if there is a kickback for selling a certain model then it makes sense to push people toward it since more money can be made.

The picture on 61" A750 that I saw was dark. The picture was darker at the top of the screen than at the bottom, but even at the bottom the picture was dark. Compared to the Sony 52" XBR LCD sitting next to it there was no comparison. Not only was it dark it was also muddy. Where the LCD had bright whites the Samsung had a light mocha. At first I thought it was the angle that I was looking at it so I changed viewing angles with the same results. I also noticed that even when I stood directly in front of the screen it was still dark and the LCD next to it was bright. I asked the salesperson about that and he said the LCD's are much brighter than the DLP's. I am really surprised anybody is buying these sets.

I suspect if the salesperson had been honest (yeah fat chance) they would tell you that the store has a policy of tuning the sets to make the higher-profit ones look better. Three years ago when I was shopping for my first HDTV they were doing the same thing, but the victim was CRT rear-pro sets.

To be fair, profit margins on consumer electronics tend to be very low so stores have to do that to stay in business.

So I currently have the HL-T5087S, is the HL50A650 significantly better, other than the lamp instead of the LED factor? I wonder if it's a good TV?

I'm thinking about getting another projection TV for a game room.

What do you guys think?

Can anyone confirm that these sets have an internal auto iris? I heard that they did not?

Can anyone confirm that these sets have an internal auto iris? I heard that they did not?

See my post here (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=14236233#post14236233). I can't say for fact that my understanding is 100% correct, but since you've asked the question twice with no response, perhaps this will suffice until someone can confirm or deny.

See my post here (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=14236233#post14236233). I can't say for fact that my understanding is 100% correct, but since you've asked the question twice with no response, perhaps this will suffice until someone can confirm or deny.

Thanks Darin. That makes sense.

Thanks Darin. That makes sense.

would it be in the service manual, i do have that

I've had the 67A750 for about a week and a half and it has started to turn itself off, then immediately back on, after a couple hours of viewing.
It has firmware 1006.1, which I thought must be the newest version.
I called Samsung today and they said I needed firmware version 1005.35, and they are sending me a usb with that version on it. I don't know if 1006.1 re-introduced the bug or what, but I hope this fixes it because I have absolutely no other complaints with this TV.

I just got my 61 inch HL61A750.

I"m totally underwhelmed and in fact disappointed.

Two things- now I know by experience what "bowing" means.

I have it on the right side and it's totally noticeable when I am using PC via HDMI/DVI connection.

It totally sucks. It's not so noticeable when watching TV.

Secondly, the viewing angle is horrible. I have a built in cabinet in the wall so I have no ability to set the height. It's only about 6 inches higher than it should be and the upper half is much less brighter than the lower half. When I halfway standup to the right viewing angle it's much better.

Again, all of these things are much more noticeable when I'm using my PC.

One of the prime reasons I was buying this TV was to double it as a computer monitor. And I'm totally disappointed. The text are slightly blurry and only readable at a very close distance of at least 8 feet away.

There is a chance I might return this TV and go for LCD. Luckily I bought from Amazon, who still allows returns.

"I am really surprised anybody is buying these sets."

Well, you either saw a bed set and/or a bad setup, or we're all blind idiots. Which do you think is likely?

I just got my 61 inch HL61A750.

I"m totally underwhelmed and in fact disappointed.

Two things- now I know by experience what "bowing" means.

I have it on the right side and it's totally noticeable when I am using PC via HDMI/DVI connection.

It totally sucks. It's not so noticeable when watching TV.

Secondly, the viewing angle is horrible. I have a built in cabinet in the wall so I have no ability to set the height. It's only about 6 inches higher than it should be and the upper half is much less brighter than the lower half. When I halfway standup to the right viewing angle it's much better.

Again, all of these things are much more noticeable when I'm using my PC.

One of the prime reasons I was buying this TV was to double it as a computer monitor. And I'm totally disappointed. The text are slightly blurry and only readable at a very close distance of at least 8 feet away.

There is a chance I might return this TV and go for LCD. Luckily I bought from Amazon, who still allows returns.

you should've gone to a retail store and looked at it before buying

have fun paying the return shipping to send it back to amazon

I just got my 61 inch HL61A750.

I"m totally underwhelmed and in fact disappointed.

Two things- now I know by experience what "bowing" means.

I have it on the right side and it's totally noticeable when I am using PC via HDMI/DVI connection.

It totally sucks. It's not so noticeable when watching TV.

Secondly, the viewing angle is horrible. I have a built in cabinet in the wall so I have no ability to set the height. It's only about 6 inches higher than it should be and the upper half is much less brighter than the lower half. When I halfway standup to the right viewing angle it's much better.

Again, all of these things are much more noticeable when I'm using my PC.

One of the prime reasons I was buying this TV was to double it as a computer monitor. And I'm totally disappointed. The text are slightly blurry and only readable at a very close distance of at least 8 feet away.

There is a chance I might return this TV and go for LCD. Luckily I bought from Amazon, who still allows returns.

Try shimming the back of the set a bit to compensate for your height issues. If the TV is angled down a bit, it should take care of your viewing issue. For the bowing, you might want to see if you can twist, flex, or otherwise tweak the TV frame to correct it.

What is the proper tv height for these sets? I seem stands from 16" tall to 24" tall. I am sitting on a normal height sofa about 13' away. Should I be looking for a 16" tall stand or 20" or what? thanks.

I just got my 61 inch HL61A750.

I"m totally underwhelmed and in fact disappointed.

Two things- now I know by experience what "bowing" means.

I have it on the right side and it's totally noticeable when I am using PC via HDMI/DVI connection.

It totally sucks. It's not so noticeable when watching TV.

Secondly, the viewing angle is horrible. I have a built in cabinet in the wall so I have no ability to set the height. It's only about 6 inches higher than it should be and the upper half is much less brighter than the lower half. When I halfway standup to the right viewing angle it's much better.

Again, all of these things are much more noticeable when I'm using my PC.

One of the prime reasons I was buying this TV was to double it as a computer monitor. And I'm totally disappointed. The text are slightly blurry and only readable at a very close distance of at least 8 feet away.

There is a chance I might return this TV and go for LCD. Luckily I bought from Amazon, who still allows returns.

Sorry to hear, but if you don't do your research before buying, well....

I love my 67"! It rocks in so many ways. Best bang for the buck fo sho! :)

What is the proper tv height for these sets? I seem stands from 16" tall to 24" tall. I am sitting on a normal height sofa about 13' away. Should I be looking for a 16" tall stand or 20" or what? thanks.

You should be ok buying whatever stand puts the center of the screen at eye level.

Sorry to hear, but if you don't do your research before buying, well....

I love my 67"! It rocks in so many ways. Best bang for the buck fo sho! :)

Very well put my friend. Research is Key and GOOGLE IS YOUR FRIEND!
and yes for the money??????? show me something for 1999 that offers what this set does.
Nothing in life is perfect. I guess TV's fit into that as well. ;)
I too love mine, and have come to the conclusion that most people on this forum , are ON this forum because they, like me, are a cut above what is considered the "norm" as far as knowledge and interest in audio and video, and so as a result we are likely to see/find issues and voice complaints generally speaking.
However, Give this or any other "imperfect" set to an average buyer, and they would never notice these issues we speak of, or rather maybe might notice but NOT CARE, given the price and features of a given product.
I'm ridiculously picky by nature, and therefore doomed from the get go when I buy ANYTHING, but I also know what good value is, and for the money the features, picture quality and SIZE of this beast? Come on. At this point a slight tilt or minuscule bow, is something I am willing to deal with and or tweak within an "acceptable range" to the best of my ability.
All that said.. I still Love my 67a750!:D

I have a ~month old HL67A750, and occasionally the TV speaker turns on, even though I have it disabled in the menu, and the volume turned down to 0.

When this happens, I have to re-enable the speaker which then silences it because the volume is at 0. This has happened 3 or 4 times so far, and usually when I turn on the TV, or switch source/channel. I have it hooked up to a Series 3 Tivo.

Anyone else experience anything like this?

Now I have had the set for two days I have two other negatives to add to the list.

Previously
1) viewing angle sucks
2) not great for PC monitor

NOW
1) component 1 is not working. playing DVD via the component connection causes red color only viewing.

2) There is this dull brightness in the center of the TV which is only noticeable in dark scenes. Once you notice it, it's hard to ignore when you are watching movies like the matrix.

Are you saying that Amazon will ask for payment on shipment even if I'm only asking for replacement?

Now I have had the set for two days I have two other negatives to add to the list.

Previously
1) viewing angle sucks
2) not great for PC monitor

NOW
1) component 1 is not working. playing DVD via the component connection causes red color only viewing.

2) There is this dull brightness in the center of the TV which is only noticeable in dark scenes. Once you notice it, it's hard to ignore when you are watching movies like the matrix.

Are you saying that Amazon will ask for payment on shipment even if I'm only asking for replacement?


I think you should just return it and get on with your life.

hehehe to the op :) I love that line!!!

What is the proper tv height for these sets? I seem stands from 16" tall to 24" tall. I am sitting on a normal height sofa about 13' away. Should I be looking for a 16" tall stand or 20" or what? thanks.

I use an Ikea Lack that is 13" or so and I like the height. my eyes are about the center of the screen. I bought it as a temp solution, ended up keeping it since it worked out so well.

Mingus- How high is the shelf space as my center channel will be 8" high? the ikea site doesn't show that dimension.

I've had the set for about a week and really like it. I've noticed that the viewing angles aren't that great with SD from comcast, better with the HD channels. Funny thing is that with my 5 year old DVD player, non-upconverting, the picture looks just awesome. It might because in letterbox format the whole picture is in the middle. Either way the pictue just rocks when you send it a good signal. This weekend I made it through the first 2 movies of the Lord of the Rings trilogy, Wow. I'm dying to get a PS3/blue ray player but the credit card is smoking since I just ordered Salk songtowers and songcenter! The little home theater is coming together bit by bit.
Cheers!

for everyone north of the border, I seen the 61a750 and the 72a650 at costco today! the 61 is priced at 1999, and the 72 at 2499.

The 61 was absolutely beautiful, with a brilliant picture. There were also no geometry issues at all. I know the guy who runs there TV area and he does a good job of setting them up, but there are some limitations as its a costco.

The 72 did not look as good. It was very bright, but at the same time, the picture wasnt as crisp as the 61. I played with it a bit, but couldnt get the picture to look as good as the 61 at all.

I also went into visions electronics, and although they did not have one in stock, the salesman knew the 67a750, and told me he has ordered them in and sold them for $2200. He told me he could order one for me and have it in a week. He also stated he would give me a 30 day window to return it if I wasnt happy, if I had the box. I am very tempted to buy this, as I would rather have the 67 than the 61, and the 72 just didnt look very good to me.

Hope this helps anyone looking for these up here.

Now I have had the set for two days I have two other negatives to add to the list.

Previously
1) viewing angle sucks
2) not great for PC monitor

NOW
1) component 1 is not working. playing DVD via the component connection causes red color only viewing.

2) There is this dull brightness in the center of the TV which is only noticeable in dark scenes. Once you notice it, it's hard to ignore when you are watching movies like the matrix.

Are you saying that Amazon will ask for payment on shipment even if I'm only asking for replacement?

you should learn how to use your equipment before complaining about the TV. red color only using component is not the TV's fault, its yours. You have the stream setting wrong on the DVD player.

The problem with alot of people is the fact they dont know what they are doing, and they blame others for their inadequacies

I would suggest you call a professional to set your stuff up and then decide if you like the TV. I doubt you have anything set right. I looked at the 61" today and it blew away the plasma's beside it, plus it was at least $3000 cheaper.

Fry's in DFW has the 67a750 listed for $1799 in their ad today (this may also apply to other Fry's..check your local newspaper's ad)

Pretty good deal for those that don't like buying big ticket items online

http://shopping.dallasnews.com/ROP/ads.aspx?advid=2519&adid=6574132&subid=22397165&type=

Hey Weasel,
so how do I set the stream setting properly on the DVD player? Also, how come I get bands of color across the screen when I use the component connection with my wii (this happens whenever I use the wiimote). By the way both dvd player and wii works perfectly on s-video and RCA connections.
This is a make or break issue for me on deciding to exchange or return the item completely.
So your help would be appreciated.

I asked at costco also about this tv. The guy went and looked it up and said it was model number HL67A510. It is not a LED tv but it shows up as one of samsungs "new" tvs on their web page. Anyone know anything about this tv? http://www.samsung.com/us/consumer/d...HL67A510J1FXZA



Yeah, I saw it displayed today. I couldn't get a good look at the picture because they had a dvd player incorrectly set up as a 4:3 display. You know how that looks right? The movie was 2.35:1 so there was 25% black bars on top and bottom and only 50% picture in the middle and everything was stretched. Other than that, it was great!

Does anyone know if this would be equivalent to a 650 series, only in a 67" size?



I saw this TV at Costco as well. It was sitting 3 or 4 ft above eye level and the picture was still good so I guess that the lamp based models like this do have a wider viewing angle than the LEDs.

The only major differences on the specs between A750 and A510 I can see are:

1) the 750 can do 120Hz while the 510 cannot

2) the 750 is 3D ready and the 510 is not

3) As mentioned the 750 is LED while the 510 is lamp.

The picture quality on both sets looks about the same to my unprofessional eyes.

The 510 is selling for 2000.00 and that includes a beautiful piano finish matching stand. With the upcoming coupon this TV can be purchased for 1800.00.


Can anyone give any advice on which set to buy considering the great price on the 510 with the stand. Are there any other cons against the Lamp DLPs that I should know about other than limited lamp life?? Also under normal use how long does the lamp last???




Thanks

Can anyone give any advice on which set to buy considering the great price on the 510 with the stand. Are there any other cons against the Lamp DLPs that I should know about other than limited lamp life?? Also under normal use how long does the lamp last???

Thanks

Have you read the FAQ in my signature? I wouldn't buy another DLP that has a bulb or spinning colorwheel. I think the price difference for the LED set is far worth it to get rid of these.

Have you read the FAQ in my signature? I wouldn't buy another DLP that has a bulb or spinning colorwheel. I think the price difference for the LED set is far worth it to get rid of these.


Plus heat, noise, power consumption and startup time.

Fry's in DFW has the 67a750 listed for $1799 in their ad today (this may also apply to other Fry's..check your local newspaper's ad)

Pretty good deal for those that don't like buying big ticket items online

http://shopping.dallasnews.com/ROP/ads.aspx?advid=2519&adid=6574132&subid=22397165&type=

i just checked the web site and they dont even have the 67a750 at all and the 61a750 is showing at 2099.

I would love to know if that price is good in ATL cause I would march right down to Best Buy and get a price match and leave with 200 bucks!