Is it every input? If it's just your satellite input, you may have the same problem I experience sometimes. I have a 1 1/2 yr old DirecTV HD DVR in my bedroom and sometimes after pausing then FF and resuming quickly, the audio will drop in and out(remedied by pausing for just a second or two then playing again) and sometimes it will do it on playback of recorded programs if the HDD is getting close to full(haven't found a work around).

it happens on everything I hook up to it except hdmi and coax cable straight to the tv.
the samsung tech said that since the replaced the sound board it can't be anything else in the tv so it must be something in my house that is interfering with it.

the sound cuts in and out like a snap of a finger, pretty fast I know but it's there....every 5-7 min.

you can really notice it like at the end of a movie (the credits rolling) because it has continueous music playing

About to have a 61" A650 delivered in a few days. My straight "viewing distance" is about 8 feet. Is this okay for a HDTV that large (or should I have went with a 56"?)

Also does anyone know the base dimension for the HL61A650?

Thanks.

I just received my HL50A650 from C.C., nice looking set. I read on the C.C. site that the Sammy had variable audio out, but so far I can't find it in the menus or in the manual. Can I control the audio output via the remote, or do I have to use my receiver's remote? I tried searching this thread but no luck, thanks!

Anyone?

About to have a 61" A650 delivered in a few days. My straight "viewing distance" is about 8 feet. Is this okay for a HDTV that large (or should I have went with a 56"?)

Also does anyone know the base dimension for the HL61A650?

Thanks.

Congratulations on your new purchase. Although I have an LED 67 incher myself, I think you will be very happy with the pic of this set. I think these are the best lamp-based DLPs for the price out there. Your distance is fine IMO. Sorry that I can't help you with the base dimensions.

Congratulations on your new purchase. Although I have an LED 67 incher myself, I think you will be very happy with the pic of this set. I think these are the best lamp-based DLPs for the price out there. Your distance is fine IMO. Sorry that I can't help you with the base dimensions.

Thanks for the info and kind words Brian. Almost everyone in my family is telling me that a 61" TV from my viewing distance will be too big and that I should have gone with a 56" model instead.

For the experts out there....should I stick w/ the 61" or take it back and get a 56" instead? I'm worried about STANDARD DEFINITION quality programming w/ the 61" from a 8-feet viewing distance. Will this be a huge concern (as opposed to a 56" model)?

Thanks.

Thanks for the info and kind words Brian. Almost everyone in my family is telling me that a 61" TV from my viewing distance will be too big and that I should have gone with a 56" model instead.

For the experts out there....should I stick w/ the 61" or take it back and get a 56" instead? I'm worried about STANDARD DEFINITION quality programming w/ the 61" from a 8-feet viewing distance. Will this be a huge concern (as opposed to a 56" model)?

Thanks.

Go bigger if anything--8' is about the right viewing distance for a 67", according to THX. Unless all you watch is SD, you'll be fine.

Go bigger if anything--8' is about the right viewing distance for a 67", according to THX. Unless all you watch is SD, you'll be fine.

Cool thanks. I was debating going back and forth between the 61" and 56" models, but I'll stick with the HL61A650!

Also my current TV stand measures 23" tall. Will this be fine for the 61" Samsung DLP set or is it TOO TALL?

Cool thanks. I was debating going back and forth between the 61" and 56" models, but I'll stick with the HL61A650!

Also my current TV stand measures 23" tall. Will this be fine for the 61" Samsung DLP set or is it TOO TALL?
left4dead, how high is your seating position? For instance, my eyes are around 3'2" to 3'4" when laying back on the couch, and I have a tv unit that is roughly 18 3/4" high, and it's a bit too high, but not bad. If your line of sight is around the same, then yes, I think 23" is too tall. I have two of the 40+" long Tobo units from Ikea put next to each other. I originally was going to get the Besta unit from Ikea, because it is a few inches shorter, but I could not fit my htpc and receiver on top of one another, so I went for the Tobo units instead. Hope this helps.

Thanks for the info and kind words Brian. Almost everyone in my family is telling me that a 61" TV from my viewing distance will be too big and that I should have gone with a 56" model instead.

For the experts out there....should I stick w/ the 61" or take it back and get a 56" instead? I'm worried about STANDARD DEFINITION quality programming w/ the 61" from a 8-feet viewing distance. Will this be a huge concern (as opposed to a 56" model)?

Thanks.

I'm 9 feet from my 67" and it's easily too small. I could go larger or move closer(to 7feet) without any problems.

When you first get a larger size set, it seems very big at first, but after a few weeks it seems much smaller. If you go from a 61" to a 56" you will most likely regret it after a few weeks.

Hi guys! I found this forum while "googling" the new 67" Samsung DLP. I just had it delivered from Circuit City last Friday and am extremely pleased! However--one problem-- I am not HD yet, so I just have my regular Direct TV Tivo Receiver hooked up via the cable for now until I get DTV HD hooked up. Therefore I've been mostly watching live tv in the 4.3 mode. Meanwhile, the first time I watched a DVD in 16.9 mode, I noticed what appears to be an annoying particle of some sort embedded on the inside of the screen on the upper right hand corner. I then inspected it more closely and noticed a lot of other "particles" all over the inside of the screen. I called Circuit City and they are swapping the TV out tomorrow. But the point is: what surprised me is, 10 minutes after I placed the customer service call, a technican from PA called me (I'm in Boston) and for his own curiousity he asked me if "what I am seeing appears to be black pepper on the screen" to which I replied yes, except for the larger particle on the upper right of the screen. So I was wondering 2 things:

1) Has anyone heard of the "black pepper" being a problem on this model? (while googling that term, there were a few hits with people using that phrase on older Samsung DLP models.)

2) Am I just being dramatic, and this simply means the screen just needs to be cleaned on the inside should my 2nd one arriving tomorrow show this problem? If so, how do you clean the screen on this model? Via the "port-hole" on the side that the inputs are on? Any thoughts would be much appreciated!

JMNS360,
It means they probably laid your set down flat on it's face...allowing internal dust, plastic particles to fall onto the inside of the screen and "attach" themselves to it. This is a not uncommon problem w/ front projection sets. Can either be cleaned (some pain) or replaced...not a major issue in that it is curable.

I just received my HL50A650 from C.C., nice looking set. I read on the C.C. site that the Sammy had variable audio out, but so far I can't find it in the menus or in the manual. Can I control the audio output via the remote, or do I have to use my receiver's remote? I tried searching this thread but no luck, thanks!

Thanks anyway, guess I'll figure it out myself.

So, would most people take this set over a smaller 50" 720p plasma set?(Samsung PN50A450) I'm looking to either this set or the Samsung HL-56A650. But I'm to the point where I'm not sure which one to choose. I won't be gaming(PS3 or Xbox 360) and no blu ray player. So I feel that the only difference is the size other than resolution(I have a 42" Vizio plasma that looks great to me, so I doubt would notice a difference in picture quality). Would it really be worth it get a larger DLP or a smaller plasma?

About to have a 61" A650 delivered in a few days. My straight "viewing distance" is about 8 feet. Is this okay for a HDTV that large (or should I have went with a 56"?)

Also does anyone know the base dimension for the HL61A650?

Thanks.

Why didn't you get the HL61a750? The 6 series has a bulb which needs replacing every 6000 hours and if you don't have an extended warranty, expect to shell out close to $200.00 for replacement bulbs. The LED series 7 (HL61A750) is alot brighter and sharper looking. I initially bought the HL56A650 and had a probelm with it and then upon doing some research and demoing the HL61A750, i noticed it had a much better looking picture, also got it at a great price from CC.

I finally bought the 61A750!!! I have been on this thread for the past year and a half and finally I pulled the pin! I showed this model 3 months ago to a co-worker and they went out and bought it me on the other hand was still up in the air. I almost bought it from vanns but went with the local route Best B** and they actually price matched it which is why I actually bought it the only kicker is that I paid tax total otd was $2056 with stand which was $249. I got a stand also which was on sale also. I am going to go back to the store and pick it up Tuesday (when they get it in) and see how it goes. :) Forgot got three hdmi cables off monoprice.com thanks to AVS for the advertising!

I finally bought the 61A750!!! I have been on this thread for the past year and a half and finally I pulled the pin! I showed this model 3 months ago to a co-worker and they went out and bought it me on the other hand was still up in the air. I almost bought it from vanns but went with the local route Best B** and they actually price matched it which is why I actually bought it the only kicker is that I paid tax total otd was $2056 with stand which was $249. I got a stand also which was on sale also. I am going to go back to the store and pick it up Tuesday (when they get it in) and see how it goes. :) Forgot got three hdmi cables off monoprice.com thanks to AVS for the advertising!

Do you have a Circuit City near you? Reason I ask is that I got the same TV as you for $1649.00 after they priced matched Amazon's price. BB would never price match Amazon, or any online electronic store. Their excuses are that they don't consider them a local competitor. Plus CC gives you 60 days for price matching. I would reconsider purchasing from them, as CC is alot better with price matching. I recently just found another online store that is selling the HL61A750 for $1250.00. I didn't click on the link to see if there was an expensive shipping expensive, but will in a bit and see if CC will price match it. If they do price match it in all likely hood they would give you the price with the shipping cost. I personally try to avoid BB when it comes to purchasing electronics, as they give you a hard time about price matching. Earlier this year I bought a Harmon Kardon AVR247 from them for $500.00, and later that night I saw online an electronics store I knew of in my state, specifically located in the previous town I lived in selling it for $399.00. I called BB and asked them if they would price match it and said they would if I went back to BB with the receipt. Well when I got there, they gave me such a hard time. They called this electronic store to verify the $399.00 price which also would've had no shipping charges either if I elected to have it shipped to me, so BB was on the phone with them for like 25 minutes and then finally said they would not price match it because the store was located out of state (NYC) to be exact. I told them that they had a store in Springfeild and they were persisitant in finding the phone number and locate the store. I then started to get frustrated and ask for the manager and he then took his time and was trying to locate the store.

Then after 15 minutes the manager said we cannot find the store in Springfeild and can't go that low on price matching it. He then said the best he could do was give it to me for $449.00, which was a sale price they had months earlier. BB are nothing but idiots! When I first called them on the phone they said they would honor it and the store did the opposite after driving X amount of miles to get there. I then took their $449.00 and then told the guy this would be the last time I would ever shop from BB and told him what I thought about their price matching.

Now CC on the other hand never ever gave me any problems what so ever. They even don't take up your time to look up the price on some occassions and give you the price match. It was a shame that CC didn't carry Harmon Kardon recievers, if they did I would've gone then in a heart beat.

Do you have a Circuit City near you? Reason I ask is that I got the same TV as you for $1649.00 after they priced matched Amazon's price. BB would never price match Amazon, or any online electronic store. Their excuses are that they don't consider them a local competitor. Plus CC gives you 60 days for price matching. I would reconsider purchasing from them, as CC is alot better with price matching. I recently just found another online store that is selling the HL61A750 for $1250.00. I didn't click on the link to see if there was an expensive shipping expensive, but will in a bit and see if CC will price match it. If they do price match it in all likely hood they would give you the price with the shipping cost. I personally try to avoid BB when it comes to purchasing electronics, as they give you a hard time about price matching. Earlier this year I bought a Harmon Kardon AVR247 from them for $500.00, and later that night I saw online an electronics store I knew of in my state, specifically located in the previous town I lived in selling it for $399.00. I called BB and asked them if they would price match it and said they would if I went back to BB with the receipt. Well when I got there, they gave me such a hard time. They called this electronic store to verify the $399.00 price which also would've had no shipping charges either if I elected to have it shipped to me, so BB was on the phone with them for like 25 minutes and then finally said they would not price match it because the store was located out of state (NYC) to be exact. I told them that they had a store in Springfeild and they were persisitant in finding the phone number and locate the store. I then started to get frustrated and ask for the manager and he then took his time and was trying to locate the store.

Then after 15 minutes the manager said we cannot find the store in Springfeild and can't go that low on price matching it. He then said the best he could do was give it to me for $449.00, which was a sale price they had months earlier. BB are nothing but idiots! When I first called them on the phone they said they would honor it and the store did the opposite after driving X amount of miles to get there. I then took their $449.00 and then told the guy this would be the last time I would ever shop from BB and told him what I thought about their price matching.

Now CC on the other hand never ever gave me any problems what so ever. They even don't take up your time to look up the price on some occassions and give you the price match. It was a shame that CC didn't carry Harmon Kardon recievers, if they did I would've gone then in a heart beat.

+1 for CC
i bought my 67"($1984) sammy at CC and they price matched no problem

Since all are talking about pricing, I figure that I would share what I paid for my HL61A750.
Got it via a large on-line auction site for $1637 with free shipping, then MSN was giving a 20% rebate with a maximum of a $200 rebate after 60 days(that offer is expired BTW and now only 8% via live.com), so it will be $1437 after I receive my rebate. Also sold my 6+ yr old HLM507w for $200, the total out of pocket will be $1237, I could NOT refuse this deal.

Okay, so my 67" was replaced by Circuit City this morning at 9:00 AM. I had to go to work today, and was just able to hook the new one up. The picture looks great, but the sound has completely disappeared. This is right out of the box, Direct TV satellite (non-HD for now) plugged in. The sound was there and after channel surfing a bit with my Tivo remote, I can NOT get the sound back on the TV. (TV speaker set to on, mute is off, etc, etc.) I had my previous TV for a week, and I'm pretty sure I know the ins and outs of the source/tool, etc. features, but I can NOT get ANY sound, not even the melody tune the TV makes. I also hooked up the Nintendo Wii into one of the components (both audio and video) and still couldn't get any sound. And I promise--mute isn't on, etc. Extremely frustrating.

Just wanted to mention that I think that SD stuff on these Samsungs is very watchable. It is not terrible like the Mit TVs. Much of the issues with SD stuff on these sets is the source, and if the source sucks, that isn't the TVs fault. Of course it will never look as good on SD that is does on HD, but if SD cable or satellite is all you have for right now, it is still a worthwhile set.

So, would most people take this set over a smaller 50" 720p plasma set?(Samsung PN50A450) I'm looking to either this set or the Samsung HL-56A650. But I'm to the point where I'm not sure which one to choose. I won't be gaming(PS3 or Xbox 360) and no blu ray player. So I feel that the only difference is the size other than resolution(I have a 42" Vizio plasma that looks great to me, so I doubt would notice a difference in picture quality). Would it really be worth it get a larger DLP or a smaller plasma?

If someone is not a diehard plasma fanboy or fangirl, the Sammy DLP is the best value set for the size, as long as you aren't sensitive to rainbows and the geometry of your set is good. The DLP loses out in torch mode, but for real world viewing, it can stand right up with plasma, IMO.

Official Disclaimer: This was posted by a Sammy Series 7 DLP fanboy!...:D

Do you have a Circuit City near you? Reason I ask is that I got the same TV as you for $1649.00 after they priced matched Amazon's price. BB would never price match Amazon, or any online electronic store. Their excuses are that they don't consider them a local competitor. Plus CC gives you 60 days for price matching. I would reconsider purchasing from them, as CC is alot better with price matching. I recently just found another online store that is selling the HL61A750 for $1250.00. I didn't click on the link to see if there was an expensive shipping expensive, but will in a bit and see if CC will price match it. If they do price match it in all likely hood they would give you the price with the shipping cost. I personally try to avoid BB when it comes to purchasing electronics, as they give you a hard time about price matching. Earlier this year I bought a Harmon Kardon AVR247 from them for $500.00, and later that night I saw online an electronics store I knew of in my state, specifically located in the previous town I lived in selling it for $399.00. I called BB and asked them if they would price match it and said they would if I went back to BB with the receipt. Well when I got there, they gave me such a hard time. They called this electronic store to verify the $399.00 price which also would've had no shipping charges either if I elected to have it shipped to me, so BB was on the phone with them for like 25 minutes and then finally said they would not price match it because the store was located out of state (NYC) to be exact. I told them that they had a store in Springfeild and they were persisitant in finding the phone number and locate the store. I then started to get frustrated and ask for the manager and he then took his time and was trying to locate the store.

Then after 15 minutes the manager said we cannot find the store in Springfeild and can't go that low on price matching it. He then said the best he could do was give it to me for $449.00, which was a sale price they had months earlier. BB are nothing but idiots! When I first called them on the phone they said they would honor it and the store did the opposite after driving X amount of miles to get there. I then took their $449.00 and then told the guy this would be the last time I would ever shop from BB and told him what I thought about their price matching.

Now CC on the other hand never ever gave me any problems what so ever. They even don't take up your time to look up the price on some occassions and give you the price match. It was a shame that CC didn't carry Harmon Kardon recievers, if they did I would've gone then in a heart beat.

Thanks for this information! Since I have already done the deal I am going to stick to the $1681 price I paid for the TV at BB. I know I can get a a bit cheaper doing more leg work like internet price matching which I did do in the first place but did not give CC a chance. My main reasoning was that I don't have to worry about rma numbers and going through the hoops to return my TV if something is wrong with it. Also some online places have a 20% restock fee no matter what its in the fine print not in most cases though. So if I have a problem on day one I just box it back up and take it back to the store for a replacement the same day. So if CC can go down to 1200 something I will tell BB to match it of forgit it the day I pick it up. Does anyone have a link online that I can find it really cheap and I will go back to BB and see if CC can do me better. :)

Do you have a Circuit City near you? Reason I ask is that I got the same TV as you for $1649.00 after they priced matched Amazon's price. BB would never price match Amazon, or any online electronic store. Their excuses are that they don't consider them a local competitor. Plus CC gives you 60 days for price matching. I would reconsider purchasing from them, as CC is alot better with price matching. I recently just found another online store that is selling the HL61A750 for $1250.00. I didn't click on the link to see if there was an expensive shipping expensive, but will in a bit and see if CC will price match it. If they do price match it in all likely hood they would give you the price with the shipping cost. I personally try to avoid BB when it comes to purchasing electronics, as they give you a hard time about price matching. Earlier this year I bought a Harmon Kardon AVR247 from them for $500.00, and later that night I saw online an electronics store I knew of in my state, specifically located in the previous town I lived in selling it for $399.00. I called BB and asked them if they would price match it and said they would if I went back to BB with the receipt. Well when I got there, they gave me such a hard time. They called this electronic store to verify the $399.00 price which also would've had no shipping charges either if I elected to have it shipped to me, so BB was on the phone with them for like 25 minutes and then finally said they would not price match it because the store was located out of state (NYC) to be exact. I told them that they had a store in Springfeild and they were persisitant in finding the phone number and locate the store. I then started to get frustrated and ask for the manager and he then took his time and was trying to locate the store.

Then after 15 minutes the manager said we cannot find the store in Springfeild and can't go that low on price matching it. He then said the best he could do was give it to me for $449.00, which was a sale price they had months earlier. BB are nothing but idiots! When I first called them on the phone they said they would honor it and the store did the opposite after driving X amount of miles to get there. I then took their $449.00 and then told the guy this would be the last time I would ever shop from BB and told him what I thought about their price matching.

Now CC on the other hand never ever gave me any problems what so ever. They even don't take up your time to look up the price on some occassions and give you the price match. It was a shame that CC didn't carry Harmon Kardon recievers, if they did I would've gone then in a heart beat.

Ok I did find it now online for $1439 so I am going to CC in a few hours to see if they will in fact match this if they do then I will just get it off them and cancel the purchase at BB. I will give BB a chance but I am almost 99% positive they will not go any lower than the price I already had. I am guessing they will still charge tax or just cut the price back to make up for the tax who knows.

I cannot believe that I'm the only one with the 61 750 that is having sound problems.
I have been through 2 sets and the second set the even replaced the sound board (comes with all the jacks)
and still every 5-7 min. is cuts out.
I have tried everything that I caouls have to find the problem (if it was mine...ex hookup)


happens on all sources except for HDMI, and coax cable right from the wall into the tv


I have moved the set away from all stereo speakers, and components and plugged into a different outlet....and still this happens.

I have called samsung and their records show that no one has a problem with this. They did have a problem with the HDMI doing this when the set first came out but sent newer software to fix the problem. I have now went to a different dealer (replare shop) and they are looking into it for me. Costco does have more of these sets now but I'm wondering if I will still have the same problem.

If someone has one of these sets (leds) could you please listen to it through rca (red white yellow) cables and maybe put it on a music channel or maybe the end of a movie (when the credits roll) softer music is better, you can really notice it then.

feel free to suggest something that I might have looked over.
I have tried different cables, different plug in. I am totally stumped at this and I think so is Samsung

I have no analog sources to test. I only use HDMI with all my components.
I don't even use my TV speakers except for the sound it makes when you turn the set on and off, so if I had a problem I wouldn't know it.

OK I did go to CC and they said they cannot match the online price but would only go $80 less than BB. Since I already purchased the TV and did not want to wait the few days to wait for the money to come into my account I just decided to keep my order with BB.

OK I did go to CC and they said they cannot match the online price but would only go $80 less than BB. Since I already purchased the TV and did not want to wait the few days to wait for the money to come into my account I just decided to keep my order with BB.

Go to tweeter they will price match

Some people around here expend an awful lot of energy to save a few bucks...

If BB only charged you $1681.00 that is still a good price. I paid $1649.00 at CC after price matched. I didn't mean to send you on a wild goose chase and waste your gas and time, just didn't want to see anyone get ripped from BB.

To the guy with the sound problem. I'm thinking the place where you bought those two sets has older sets with older software, check your software version. I think mines reads 1006.1. Costco would most likely have the first sets that had this minor glitch in the software with them. I personally run HDMI from cable HDDVR box, and PS3 and optical for both as well going through AVR. The cable's HDMI goes directly to 61" and sound is great! I wouldn't be able to test my older cables, as they wouldn't be able to reach the inputs. Also what is the source you are using to run your cables from? Are you running from a cable box? Is the cable box/sat box HD? Are internal settings for audio out on box set correctly? If it's any help I do here the musical chime when powering the 61" on/off. I also take it you don't have an AVR? If so are you planning on getting one in near future?

the set software is upgraded, was at the highest when I bought it.
the sources are satillite, digital cable box, xbox 360 (no hdmi port), dvd player.
I have them all going into the rca posts (red, white yellow, the xbox is compnent.
I have checked the internal settings...they are correct.

none of my stuff is HD....except for the xbox..runs at 1080i

the musical chimes when turning on and off the tv was not what I was talking about,
that actuall works heheh

I was asking if anyone couls listen to softer music on their set for about 10 min. you can really notice it then. I can notice it all the time but it's morenoticeable when there is sound all the time in stead of just talking once in a while.

I was at costco yesterday and they just got more sets in. they had rca cables running to it so I tried to listen to it but there was just too much noise in the background (people) to hear if the sound skipped.

I have no analog sources to test. I only use HDMI with all my components.
I don't even use my TV speakers except for the sound it makes when you turn the set on and off, so if I had a problem I wouldn't know it.

aaronwt - how do you have your dvd player hooked u?. Is it directly to the tv, and if so do you have the sound going to your receiver from the tv or from the dvd player, or do you plug the dvd HDMI into your receiver and have an HDMI cable go from the receiver to the tv?

I was wondering what most people do, I want to get a blu-ray player, and am unsure which way is better to hook it up. Anybody else want to say how they hook this up HDMI? Thanks.

I got CC to price match Fry's at $1499 last Monday. All I can say is WOW....love the TV.

My geometry on top was just a little off, tweaked the sides and it came to be perfect. The bottom is off though about 5/16". Not sure if this can be adjusted in the service menu or not???

Today I am going to play with calibrating it. Stay tune.

When you guys get the price matches, do you ever consider tax? I'd like to buy local but I just can't get anything to beat Amazon. If I order Amazon its cheaper and I don't have to pay the 7% or so local tax. On top of that I have an Amazon card and I get 3% back on purchases from Amazon.

On a side note, anyone see the new Samsung rebates? Looks like I can get $200 on the 67'.

When you guys get the price matches, do you ever consider tax? I'd like to buy local but I just can't get anything to beat Amazon. If I order Amazon its cheaper and I don't have to pay the 7% or so local tax. On top of that I have an Amazon card and I get 3% back on purchases from Amazon.

On a side note, anyone see the new Samsung rebates? Looks like I can get $200 on the 67'.

wheres the rebates?

wheres the rebates?


Unfortunately it appears to be a rebate in the form of a gift certificate to Mounted Memories and not a money back rebate. :mad:

edit to add more info:
http://forums.slickdeals.net/showthread.php?threadid=910637

I run my PS3 using HDMI to 61" and optical from PS3 "for audio" to my AVR.
HD Cable box runs HDMI to 61" and optical to AVR.
DVD recoder has RCA from cable box, but don't use it to watch DVD's as that is what the PS3 is for.
Then all the VCR's "which really don't use anymore, except for survialence camera's are hooked up to my other 2 SDTV's. I used to have the HDMI from PS3 and cable box going through AVR then to 61" but had some issuess with passing 1080p at times. Even though my AVR passes 1080 signals, I had some issues that I can't recall at this time. Componet cables I really don't use anymore after upgrading to optical and HDMI.

Unfortunately it appears to be a rebate in the form of a gift certificate to Mounted Memories and not a money back rebate. :mad:




Saw the rebate pop up on Amazon and was sll set to finally pull the trigger to buy it. I wanted to find out more about the rebate and found out what it was. I hope Amazon has the decency to change their description around to reflect it is a "gift certificate" to an overpriced memorabilia website.

Still Amazon has a good price on the set without the rebate.

Still Amazon has a good price on the set without the rebate.

True but with my luck I'll get a set with issues and it's a bit easier to swap out sets with a local b & m. Unfortunately the only b & m in my area that carries the 67" is BB.:(

True but with my luck I'll get a set with issues and it's a bit easier to swap out sets with a local b & m. Unfortunately the only b & m in my area that carries the 67" is BB.:(


That is the way my local BB is - only the 67". I am still leaning towards Amazon and even called them to discuss possible problems. Customer service is really helpful about questions.

Does anybody have any dealings with Amazon and problematic TV's?

If BB only charged you $1681.00 that is still a good price. I paid $1649.00 at CC after price matched. I didn't mean to send you on a wild goose chase and waste your gas and time, just didn't want to see anyone get ripped from BB.

To the guy with the sound problem. I'm thinking the place where you bought those two sets has older sets with older software, check your software version. I think mines reads 1006.1. Costco would most likely have the first sets that had this minor glitch in the software with them. I personally run HDMI from cable HDDVR box, and PS3 and optical for both as well going through AVR. The cable's HDMI goes directly to 61" and sound is great! I wouldn't be able to test my older cables, as they wouldn't be able to reach the inputs. Also what is the source you are using to run your cables from? Are you running from a cable box? Is the cable box/sat box HD? Are internal settings for audio out on box set correctly? If it's any help I do here the musical chime when powering the 61" on/off. I also take it you don't have an AVR? If so are you planning on getting one in near future?


Thanks for the advice it was np for me to go to CC since they are like a mile apart which I should have done this in the first place. They only price match the online price but charge sales tax onto the price they give. I will post more after I pick it up tuesday. Both my BB and CC would not go any lower after I showed them the $1439 online price.

That is the way my local BB is - only the 67". I am still leaning towards Amazon and even called them to discuss possible problems. Customer service is really helpful about questions.

Does anybody have any dealings with Amazon and problematic TV's?


My .2 cents: If you think it would be problematic to swap out the TV through Amazon, I would avoid it. If, god forbid, you get a faulty DLP, you are dealing with shipping methods rather than store delivery, or exchanging it yourself at a physical store. As for my situation, my THIRD is being delivered by Circuit City tomorrow. The first time, the inside of the screen had a lot of particles and had a light scratch near the bottom left corner. Since I had the TV on the stand for only 2 days, Circuit City did not hesitate to swap it out via their delivery service. The 2nd set has a perfect screen but DOES NOT HAVE ANY SOUND coming out of the television speaker. (I've been able to use it for the weekend, since I have my receiver running through it.)

So the bottom line is--you might be taking a chance if you are dealing with an online exchange and you have a problem--unless you don't mind settling for the set you receive and just have a technician out to your house. In my case, I find it absurd to need a technician so soon, (as did Circuit City agree) so I have been swapping out the set. Hopefully 3rd time's the charm! After all of the research I've done on this model, and the positive reviews I never expected to have a problem. :eek:

Got answers for my sound problems.....

Okay so here is the scoop about the sound problems that I am having.
To recap, I am getting sound drop outs every 5-7 min. on rca and component. After going through 2 sets and a sound board and two repair shops. I finally got an answer.
Samsung of Canada said that I was the only one that has mentioned this problem to them (which I find hard to believe). They contacted Samsung Korea (this is where the tvs are made and all the programming is done). Samsung of Korea has heard of this problem, and are going to be working on a fix for this. The repair shop said it could take a year.
anyways they said that all the sets will have this probelm so returning it for another one will not solve the problem. So this is why I said I find it hard to believe that I am the only one that has noticed this sound drop out.

I was also told by a friend of mine that works at a local retailer that pretty much sells nothing but tvs....that He would stay away from the DLPs (this includes the led ones).
the new 750 series DLPs are already discontinued and that Samsung are no longer makeing DLPs because of all the issues that they are recieving the public.
He told me just to take it back and start looking for something else.

Me....I like the 61" 7 series DLP, the only problem so far is the sound but if they can fix that....it is a nice tv. I still have a chance to take it back.....or do I wait for the fix....


Poll: If you own the new DLP 750 series:

- are you taking it back getting a lcd
- are you taking it back getting a plasma
-I love my DLP, it's not going anywhere

Take it back and get LN52A750 LCD..

I just bought a 61" sammy 750 and love also exchanged our cable box for a HD cable box and go the x,y,b cables that Charter gave me with the box.

Would buying a DVI cable to connect HD cable box to my TV instead of the x,y cables be better.

Is DVI better.

thanx m4bama

I'll trade in my 67 when you pry it from my cold dead fingers...:D

Don't wan't no teenie weenie TV. :rolleyes:

-I love my DLP, it's not going anywhere

When I can get a decent size LCD or Plasma at a decent price then I will think about replacing my DLP set.

A decent size being 67" or larger.

A 55" LCD set is too small. That's smaller than the HD set I had in 2001. And a good looking 65" or larger LCD or Plasma is much too expensive.

Got answers for my sound problems.....

Okay so here is the scoop about the sound problems that I am having.
To recap, I am getting sound drop outs every 5-7 min. on rca and component. After going through 2 sets and a sound board and two repair shops. I finally got an answer.
Samsung of Canada said that I was the only one that has mentioned this problem to them (which I find hard to believe). They contacted Samsung Korea (this is where the tvs are made and all the programming is done). Samsung of Korea has heard of this problem, and are going to be working on a fix for this. The repair shop said it could take a year.
anyways they said that all the sets will have this probelm so returning it for another one will not solve the problem. So this is why I said I find it hard to believe that I am the only one that has noticed this sound drop out.

I was also told by a friend of mine that works at a local retailer that pretty much sells nothing but tvs....that He would stay away from the DLPs (this includes the led ones).
the new 750 series DLPs are already discontinued and that Samsung are no longer makeing DLPs because of all the issues that they are recieving the public.
He told me just to take it back and start looking for something else.

Me....I like the 61" 7 series DLP, the only problem so far is the sound but if they can fix that....it is a nice tv. I still have a chance to take it back.....or do I wait for the fix....


Poll: If you own the new DLP 750 series:

- are you taking it back getting a lcd
- are you taking it back getting a plasma
-I love my DLP, it's not going anywhere

Maybe this is stupid for me to think... but a TV this large really needs to be with a surround sound/home theatre receiver anyways... thus eliminating the problem ;) You will NOT find a plasma/LCD this quality for less than literally like 3000 more. If I had money sitting around like that, I would LOVE a pioneer KURO; but alas, I don't.

p.s.
- I love my DLP, it's not going anywhere

I went from a standard definition CRT Mitsubishi Diamond rear projection set to HD, so I was not sure what to expect. The standard definition on the 750 is a big improvement from my old set and I thought it had a pretty good picture. The HD picture quality is about the same as SD except in wide screen. I had heard that standard definition on HD sets was poor but that it is not the case with mine, so I am wondering if the picture quality of my HD is bad since I don't see a big improvement. Does it take something like blu-ray to really see a difference. Right now my only comparison is what I see over TWC.

I went from a standard definition CRT Mitsubishi Diamond rear projection set to HD, so I was not sure what to expect. The standard definition on the 750 is a big improvement from my old set and I thought it had a pretty good picture. The HD picture quality is about the same as SD except in wide screen. I had heard that standard definition on HD sets was poor but that it is not the case with mine, so I am wondering if the picture quality of my HD is bad since I don't see a big improvement. Does it take something like blu-ray to really see a difference. Right now my only comparison is what I see over TWC.

Something doesn't sound right--Are you sure you have an HD source? Is your cable box/sat receiver an HD model, and have you subscribed to your providers HD service? Have you tried a local HD channel OTA with an antenna?

Is your Cable/Sat box set for an HD TV? Most have a menu item that asks what type of TV you have.

Is your TV set to the proper inputs and aspect ratio etc?

If you're getting a true HD source, the difference should be quite apparent, even with a compressed HD signal like most Cable/Sat companies provide. (OTA is generally the best picture, if available.)

Hope this helps.

Question for you guys: I picked up this year's model of 56" Sammy DLP (HL56A650) at Fry's over the past weekend. I deliberately didn't get last year's 56" LED-lit model because many of the reviews and posts I've seen on other sites talked about low reliability on the LED models. I was also worried what repairs would mean when the LED units weren't as easily removed and replaced as the lamps are.

I'm extremely happy with the picture on the lamp based model, but I know there's a 6-color wheel in there, spinning at absurd RPM's. I purchased a 3-year extended warranty as a precaution against it going out like the one on my very hold 43" DLP did.

What I want to know is: do you guys think that I ought to go back and return the lamp version for the LED? If so, why? I'm planning on keeping this TV for a very long time, and I want to make sure I don't end up with a major headache down the road. Is the picture on the LED supposed to be better? I've heard from others that the new lamps are actually outperforming the LED versions.

Question for you guys: I picked up this year's model of 56" Sammy DLP (HL56A650) at Fry's over the past weekend. I deliberately didn't get last year's 56" LED-lit model because many of the reviews and posts I've seen on other sites talked about low reliability on the LED models. I was also worried what repairs would mean when the LED units weren't as easily removed and replaced as the lamps are.

I'm extremely happy with the picture on the lamp based model, but I know there's a 6-color wheel in there, spinning at absurd RPM's. I purchased a 3-year extended warranty as a precaution against it going out like the one on my very hold 43" DLP did.

What I want to know is: do you guys think that I ought to go back and return the lamp version for the LED? If so, why? I'm planning on keeping this TV for a very long time, and I want to make sure I don't end up with a major headache down the road. Is the picture on the LED supposed to be better? I've heard from others that the new lamps are actually outperforming the LED versions.

IMO go with the led less headaches later. The buld does have to be replaced if you want to quality of the tv to remain.

BTW got mine unboxed and hooked up partially last night and just running componet cables the tv is amazing. Can't wait for my monoproce hdmi cables to come in today to get to full effect. So I have to hook up the x-box, ps3, Direc** all hdmi. I picked it up myself from the box to the stand and was surprised it was so light. It came with 1006.1 firmware and the geometry was spot on.

My HL61A750 is being delivered on Saturday (9/6). This is my first experience with DLP and I didn't have much time to test it out at the store. How would you compare the black levels to LCD or Plasma? I have read the Cnet review, but I'm hoping for feedback from owners.

I have a brand new 32" lcd and this thing is better so that's all I have to compare it too.. The black levels were very good IMO of the first night of testing watching a BlueRay and playing x-box. I recommend looking over the owners FAQ thread and you can use their settings that's what I am doing as a good baseline. So far I am a very happy camper going from a Hitachi 42 standard projection 03 model.

[QUOTE=finsmaniac02;14579181]Maybe this is stupid for me to think... but a TV this large really needs to be with a surround sound/home theatre receiver anyways... thus eliminating the problem


Well, it's not stupid if it worked.......I have hooked my home theatre system to it and it actually picks up the sound drop from the tv. So this doesn't eliminate the problem and I have told this to Samsung.

Hopefully the fix won't take too long...

[quote=finsmaniac02;14579181]Maybe this is stupid for me to think... but a TV this large really needs to be with a surround sound/home theatre receiver anyways... thus eliminating the problem


Well, it's not stupid if it worked.......I have hooked my home theatre system to it and it actually picks up the sound drop from the tv. So this doesn't eliminate the problem and I have told this to Samsung.

Hopefully the fix won't take too long...


Samhung, if you are connecting to your surround sound system and still getting the dropouts, YOU'RE CONNECTING IT WRONG. :eek:

Don't run the sound through the tv at all, go directly from the source to your receiver.

If you've actually done it this way, then obviously the problem is your source and not the TV.

Either way, running the sound from your source(s) to your receiver should eventually solve your problem. :cool:

Have been thinking of getting this tv for awhile now and i have it narrowed down between the HL67A750 and the Vizio VO47LF....big difference there i know but the Vizio is my budget pick and the Sammy is the one i really want to spring for. Anyway the one thing i really want in a set is PIP & POP(picture on picture). I really like the split screen POP of the Vizio and was wondering does the HL67A750 have PIP only? No POP?

Question for you guys: I picked up this year's model of 56" Sammy DLP (HL56A650) at Fry's over the past weekend. I deliberately didn't get last year's 56" LED-lit model because many of the reviews and posts I've seen on other sites talked about low reliability on the LED models. I was also worried what repairs would mean when the LED units weren't as easily removed and replaced as the lamps are.


I'm extremely happy with the picture on the lamp based model, but I know there's a 6-color wheel in there, spinning at absurd RPM's. I purchased a 3-year extended warranty as a precaution against it going out like the one on my very hold 43" DLP did.

What I want to know is: do you guys think that I ought to go back and return the lamp version for the LED? If so, why? I'm planning on keeping this TV for a very long time, and I want to make sure I don't end up with a major headache down the road. Is the picture on the LED supposed to be better? I've heard from others that the new lamps are actually outperforming the LED versions.

Okay first of all the HL56A650 is last years model, not this years. The LED model 750 came out this year and is only available in 61" and 67". The LED bulbs will last 60,000 hours as compared to the incadescent bulbs on the 650 which are rated to last for 6000 hours.

I had the HL56A650 and had a problem with it and upgraded to the HL61A750.
The picture quality on the 750 is better and is brighter in background and in color spectrum. It also uses less energy and runs cooler and doesn't have the spinning color wheel that can potential be a concern if something should go wrong. The incadescent bulbs cost around $200 to replace and will fade over time. The LED set is amazing and has improvements all around. For one you won't see the light being projected out in the rear of the unit which also can attract insects that love light and get inside the set. I had two fireflys actually get inside the 650 set I had and were mating on the inside of my screen. Yes I had to briefly watch two insects get it on my big screen tv. The 650 series is still a good set over all, but the LED 750 is better and takes it to the next level. Darker darks, deeper color and whiter whites. If I were you I would defnately recommend the LED series 750. Right now they only are available in 61" and 67" DLP's.

I just bought a 61" sammy 750 and love also exchanged our cable box for a HD cable box and go the x,y,b cables that Charter gave me with the box.

Would buying a DVI cable to connect HD cable box to my TV instead of the x,y cables be better.

Is DVI better.

thanx m4bama

You need an HDMI cable, not DVI. DVI is the older high bandwith cable and those HDMI to DVI cables do not carry audio. Though the picture quality is the same, at least it was on my older 1080i Sony 46". Using HDMI is alot better then componet cables, as you will see a much better picture quality. I recommend any componet you have that has HDMI, or Optical capabilities to use them. There is a big difference in picture and sound quaility due to the high bandwith signal they are capable of carrying.

Have been thinking of getting this tv for awhile now and i have it narrowed down between the HL67A750 and the Vizio VO47LF....big difference there i know but the Vizio is my budget pick and the Sammy is the one i really want to spring for. Anyway the one thing i really want in a set is PIP & POP(picture on picture). I really like the split screen POP of the Vizio and was wondering does the HL67A750 have PIP only? No POP?

I would persoanlly go with the Samsung as Vizio is like a no frills brand tv. I never even heard of them up until like last year. The HL67A750 does have PIP and it can be viewed in different formats. Not that I use the PIP function, I was told from my cable company i would need an additional box if I wanted to view all my channels in PIP mode. I thought maybe if I just connected the cable I would be able to get every channel except all the premiums because of the 3 built in tuners, well I only get 20 channels this way and they are not HD.

Unless I am doing something wrong and if someone would like to elaborate on how to properly hook up the PIP function, I'd much appreciate it.

[quote=Samhung;14584610]


Samhung, if you are connecting to your surround sound system and still getting the dropouts, YOU'RE CONNECTING IT WRONG. :eek:

Don't run the sound through the tv at all, go directly from the source to your receiver.

If you've actually done it this way, then obviously the problem is your source and not the TV.

Either way, running the sound from your source(s) to your receiver should eventually solve your problem. :cool:

I second that, there is really no reason why you should have sound coming from your TV into your receiver. The only situation like that would be if you are using an OTA antenna, or running cable straight to your TV without a cable box. In those cases, yes you would hook it up that way and the sound problem might be replicated.

BUT as pointed out, if you have a cable box/dvd player/whatever (any actual "box" as a source) then you run the sound coming out of that straight to the receiver. If you are still having problems, it is 100% definitely not your TV

The company that makes Vizio products, Syntax-Brillian, filed for bankruptcy in June. They are basically a contract manufacturer, buying B-grade panels from companies like Samsung and putting them in cases they designed. I don't know whose electronics they use.

Go for the Samsung. Besides, it's bigger :)

[quote=Samhung;14584610]


Samhung, if you are connecting to your surround sound system and still getting the dropouts, YOU'RE CONNECTING IT WRONG. :eek:

Don't run the sound through the tv at all, go directly from the source to your receiver.

If you've actually done it this way, then obviously the problem is your source and not the TV.

Either way, running the sound from your source(s) to your receiver should eventually solve your problem. :cool:
Moonhawk, I wasn't able to do what you are suggesting since I'm using OTA. I had to pull the audio from the TV via an optical cable. I'm using the Sony STR-DG920 receiver... am I missing something?

BTW - the only audio issue I have is sync'ing in some cases between audio and video. This can be "funny" at times. Is this a common issue? I believe that this was an issue before I installed my sound system.

Thanks.

Hello to all:

I ordered my HL67A750 on August 31 from Amazon. Very convenient because the price drop guarantee is only eligible on products ordered before 9/1, so hopefully the price drops drastically!!! $150 more today than what I paid :mad:.

My concern is that I have read a lot of information concerning PQ being better on the 61" compared to the 67". I read that it has something to do with stretching the LED to those dimensions. Is this true? Should I have purchased the 61"? Is it so noticeable that I'll be kicking myself for going big? There was no question in my mind about buying one of the 7 series LED's, but size was a debate. I am replacing an HLT5075S, so I imagine that no matter how much PQ I compromised by getting the 67" I will still be quite pleased.

I also wondered how easily I could calibrate the TV myself. I've read that I could really screw my TV up, but if I follow some of the information I've gathered it doesn't sound all that difficult to do. Has anyone tried to do this themselves and ended up having to call a professional anyway?

I don't mean to ramble, but I'm the type of person that needs reassured about making the right decision.

You need to have the proper equipment to do a proper calibration yourself which costs in the five figures for the better, more accurate equipment. They do have some devices aimed at the consumer market, but they aren't anywhere near as accurate as the professional equipment.

bought my HL61750 on 8-31-08, got it home 9-1-08. worked great 9-1, 9-2 and on 9-3 I come home from work and it won't turn on. Reseated all cables and unpluged etc. nothing. So pissed off I call tech support and all they can do is send out a tech to repair. Great picture though. Can't believe they had a failure on my set already and it was manf june of 08,.

oh also found out my tv has firmware 1006, the latest on the website is 1005.3 I asked tech support about why that would be and they were clueless. Anyone here know?

[QUOTE=moonhawk;14585794]
Moonhawk, I wasn't able to do what you are suggesting since I'm using OTA. I had to pull the audio from the TV via an optical cable. I'm using the Sony STR-DG920 receiver... am I missing something?



I have mine hooked up this way as well. I have the high quality Wii cables hooked into Component 1, and PS2 cables hooked into another input. My digital optical cord is going from the tv into my Sony 5.1 receiver. (My DVD however, has a very short digital optical cord going directly from the DVD player to the Sony receiver.) All this really prevents is having to change the Audio receiver mode to "Auxilary" to play video games (the Sony receiver stays on TV/Sat). In other words, rather than only the PS2 & Wii Video cords plugged in the tv itself, and separating the audio cord down into the Sony receiver, they are all plugged into the TV's assigned input, and the digital optical cord takes the audio from the TV and plays it through the Sony receiver. The TV speaker remains off by the way.

I'd just like to point out that some of the Samsung DLPs obviously have sound problems, and I don't think it is Samsung's hook-up. After all, I just returned my 2nd delivered DLP due to the TV Speaker having NO SOUND. The 3rd and final is great though.

gotta love that i got my 750 replacement set delivered yesterday, except they delivered the 650 LOL. now i'm waiting for another

[QUOTE

oh also found out my tv has firmware 1006, the latest on the website is 1005.3 I asked tech support about why that would be and they were clueless. Anyone here know?[/QUOTE]

When I couldn't get any audio from my 2nd 67" DLP, I broke down and called tech support, the day before the replacement was arriving, just to make sure it wasn't some internal setting. Not the case, the sound was simply dead. In any case, regarding software updates, he did say that he receives several calls from people that update their set simply because there is an update available, and it can actually CREATE problems. His advice was not to perform a firmware update unless the latest release describes a problem you are actually having. He said the latest one addresses the issue of the tv turning off by itself for no reason.

"When I couldn't get any audio from my 2nd 67" DLP, I broke down and called tech support, the day before the replacement was arriving, just to make sure it wasn't some internal setting. Not the case, the sound was simply dead. In any case, regarding software updates, he did say that he receives several calls from people that update their set simply because there is an update available, and it can actually CREATE problems. His advice was not to perform a firmware update unless the latest release describes a problem you are actually having. He said the latest one addresses the issue of the tv turning off by itself for no reason"

Ineteresting, yeah when I saw that I had a more recent firmware I didn't want to mess with it at all and just left it as is. Had no problems with sound or anything until it decided it didn't want to power up anymore. Hopefully it will get resolved on monday when the tech comes.

FYI: Costco dropped their price on the Samsung HL67A510J1F from $1999.99 to $1799.99. This is the non-LED version of the HL67A510.

I bought one earlier this month and I have been very pleased. I noticed the price decrease yesterday so this had to have just happened.

The set also includes the Samsung TV stand made for this model as well as an extra years warranty from Costco. If you have a Costco American Express card and are an executive member you get an additional 3% back as well as another year added to the warranty.

So for $1746 plus tax, this TV, the stand and 3 years of warranty is a pretty good deal.

Quick question...I have seen tweaks/settings/calibration suggestions for the LED version of this model here but have not found any for the non-LED model here or anywhere else for that matter. Am I overlooking them? If anyone knows where they are here or elsewhere, please point them out to me. Thanks!

[QUOTE

oh also found out my tv has firmware 1006, the latest on the website is 1005.3 I asked tech support about why that would be and they were clueless. Anyone here know?

When I couldn't get any audio from my 2nd 67" DLP, I broke down and called tech support, the day before the replacement was arriving, just to make sure it wasn't some internal setting. Not the case, the sound was simply dead. In any case, regarding software updates, he did say that he receives several calls from people that update their set simply because there is an update available, and it can actually CREATE problems. His advice was not to perform a firmware update unless the latest release describes a problem you are actually having. He said the latest one addresses the issue of the tv turning off by itself for no reason.[/QUOTE]

1006 use to be on the website, i downloaded and installed it on my set, but they retracted it for some reason

I would persoanlly go with the Samsung as Vizio is like a no frills brand tv. I never even heard of them up until like last year. The HL67A750 does have PIP and it can be viewed in different formats. Not that I use the PIP function, I was told from my cable company i would need an additional box if I wanted to view all my channels in PIP mode. I thought maybe if I just connected the cable I would be able to get every channel except all the premiums because of the 3 built in tuners, well I only get 20 channels this way and they are not HD.

Unless I am doing something wrong and if someone would like to elaborate on how to properly hook up the PIP function, I'd much appreciate it.


Well like i said the Vizio is by budget pick, the one i can cover without breaking the bank ya know. They (and Samsung) seem to be the only makes interested in preserving the PIP feature i do so enjoy using. I like the split screen for gaming on one side and still watching the tv on the other. Now you said the PIP can be viewed in different formats, so do you know if the PIP screen be adjusted to be an equal split screen?

Also was wondering about Mack Warranties, i've read on here that they are good to get but where are those offered? I plan to get the Samsung from Amazon if i can't get a price match lower from CC or BB.

On the Sammy DLP's...the blue ring of light on the front...can that be turned off?

On the Sammy DLP's...the blue ring of light on the front...can that be turned off?

Yes, it's in the manual. You can have it on when the TV is on, and off when TV off. Off when TV is on and on when TV is off. On all the time. And you can have it off all the time.

I have my Blue LED set to be on only when the Tv is off for both my Samsung sets.

Yes, it's in the manual. You can have it on when the TV is on, and off when TV off. Off when TV is on and on when TV is off. On all the time. And you can have it off all the time.

I have my Blue LED set to be on only when the Tv is off for both my Samsung sets.
Thanks. I tried to find it in the manual (online pdf form via the Samsung website), but my computer wasn't cooperating.

My HL61A750 will be here Saturday. Seems so far away...

From page 67 in the HL67A750 manual

"Setting the Light Effect
You can turn the blue LED on the front of your TV on/off.
1 Press the MENU button to display the menu.
Press the ▲ or ▼ button to select Setup, then press the ENTER button.
2 Press the ▲ or ▼ button to select External Settings, then press the ENTER
button.
3 Press the ▲ or ▼ button to select Light Effect, then press the ENTER button.
Press the ▲ or ▼ button to select Off, In Standby, In Watching TV, or Always,
then press the ENTER button.
Press the EXIT button to exit.
• Off: The LED is always off.
• In Standby: The LED lights while in Standby mode and it turns off when your TV is turned on.
• In Watching TV: The LED lights when watching TV and it turns off when your TV is turned off.
• Always: The LED is always lit.
➢ Set the Light Effect to Off to reduce power consumption."

Unfortunately, I can't fit the 61" in my entertainment center. I have a max height of 55" to work with. The A650 just barely scrapes in there at ~54.5". I did see there a 56" LED projected version of the set (can't remember the model #), but was told it was a prior year's model that was being discontinued (at Fry's at least). They had two left in the box plus the display model.

I also noticed that the LED 56" didn't have the 3d-ready moniker on the casing, which I took to mean that it didn't have a 120hz refresh, but had the old 60hz. I don't plan on running to ddd.com to buy a pair of novelty glasses, but the higher refresh can't hurt.

Has anybody heard anything bad about this 56" LED Samsung?


Okay first of all the HL56A650 is last years model, not this years. The LED model 750 came out this year and is only available in 61" and 67". The LED bulbs will last 60,000 hours as compared to the incadescent bulbs on the 650 which are rated to last for 6000 hours.

I had the HL56A650 and had a problem with it and upgraded to the HL61A750.
The picture quality on the 750 is better and is brighter in background and in color spectrum. It also uses less energy and runs cooler and doesn't have the spinning color wheel that can potential be a concern if something should go wrong. The incadescent bulbs cost around $200 to replace and will fade over time. The LED set is amazing and has improvements all around. For one you won't see the light being projected out in the rear of the unit which also can attract insects that love light and get inside the set. I had two fireflys actually get inside the 650 set I had and were mating on the inside of my screen. Yes I had to briefly watch two insects get it on my big screen tv. The 650 series is still a good set over all, but the LED 750 is better and takes it to the next level. Darker darks, deeper color and whiter whites. If I were you I would defnately recommend the LED series 750. Right now they only are available in 61" and 67" DLP's.

[QUOTE=finsmaniac02;14579181]Maybe this is stupid for me to think... but a TV this large really needs to be with a surround sound/home theatre receiver anyways... thus eliminating the problem


Well, it's not stupid if it worked.......I have hooked my home theatre system to it and it actually picks up the sound drop from the tv. So this doesn't eliminate the problem and I have told this to Samsung.

Hopefully the fix won't take too long...


I have the 1006.1 firmware and have had no audio drop outs with connecting all my hdmi cables (x-box, PS3, Directv HD) through the tv and using the audio out (L,R) to the home theater reciever and it sounds fine.

I just go my TV delivered yesterday. Purchased at CC. Is there a post or a simple set of instructions on how to access the service menu and test for bowing and brightness? I have 30 days and want to make sure my set is in good condition. Any help or experience with doing this is much appreciated.

I just go my TV delivered yesterday. Purchased at CC. Is there a post or a simple set of instructions on how to access the service menu and test for bowing and brightness? I have 30 days and want to make sure my set is in good condition. Any help or experience with doing this is much appreciated.

Use this thread as a solid base of information. This has answered most of my questions just by reading page one. :)

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1029686

Got answers for my sound problems.....

Okay so here is the scoop about the sound problems that I am having.
To recap, I am getting sound drop outs every 5-7 min. on rca and component. After going through 2 sets and a sound board and two repair shops. I finally got an answer.
Samsung of Canada said that I was the only one that has mentioned this problem to them (which I find hard to believe). They contacted Samsung Korea (this is where the tvs are made and all the programming is done). Samsung of Korea has heard of this problem, and are going to be working on a fix for this. The repair shop said it could take a year.
anyways they said that all the sets will have this probelm so returning it for another one will not solve the problem. So this is why I said I find it hard to believe that I am the only one that has noticed this sound drop out.

I was also told by a friend of mine that works at a local retailer that pretty much sells nothing but tvs....that He would stay away from the DLPs (this includes the led ones).
the new 750 series DLPs are already discontinued and that Samsung are no longer makeing DLPs because of all the issues that they are recieving the public.
He told me just to take it back and start looking for something else.

Me....I like the 61" 7 series DLP, the only problem so far is the sound but if they can fix that....it is a nice tv. I still have a chance to take it back.....or do I wait for the fix....


Poll: If you own the new DLP 750 series:

- are you taking it back getting a lcd
- are you taking it back getting a plasma
-I love my DLP, it's not going anywhere

No offense, but retailers are not privy to every little thing a company is planning, and I seriously doubt that Samsung is going to say to their sellers "Oh by the way, our DLPs really suck, so we're going to stop making them, but please keep it under your hat so it wont get out and be posted online." Until I hear something official, I'm not believing any of it. Most people that give up quickly on DLPs are under the false impression thet LCDs and Plasmas are problem-free, and they break down and have their own issues too.
I LOVE my DLP!!!!!

Hello to all:

I ordered my HL67A750 on August 31 from Amazon. Very convenient because the price drop guarantee is only eligible on products ordered before 9/1, so hopefully the price drops drastically!!! $150 more today than what I paid :mad:.

My concern is that I have read a lot of information concerning PQ being better on the 61" compared to the 67". I read that it has something to do with stretching the LED to those dimensions. Is this true? Should I have purchased the 61"? Is it so noticeable that I'll be kicking myself for going big? There was no question in my mind about buying one of the 7 series LED's, but size was a debate. I am replacing an HLT5075S, so I imagine that no matter how much PQ I compromised by getting the 67" I will still be quite pleased.

I also wondered how easily I could calibrate the TV myself. I've read that I could really screw my TV up, but if I follow some of the information I've gathered it doesn't sound all that difficult to do. Has anyone tried to do this themselves and ended up having to call a professional anyway?

I don't mean to ramble, but I'm the type of person that needs reassured about making the right decision.

I wouldn't worry about the PQ being better on the 61. That has been mentioned, and I personally don't believe it. The PQ on the 67 is freaking awesome. Starship Troopers Blu-Ray was amazing, and LCD would never have been able to handle the motion as well, and Plasma would have cost an arm and a leg. Go in with a clean slate and without preconcieved notions, and you will likely be satisfied.

bought my HL61750 on 8-31-08, got it home 9-1-08. worked great 9-1, 9-2 and on 9-3 I come home from work and it won't turn on. Reseated all cables and unpluged etc. nothing. So pissed off I call tech support and all they can do is send out a tech to repair. Great picture though. Can't believe they had a failure on my set already and it was manf june of 08,.

oh also found out my tv has firmware 1006, the latest on the website is 1005.3 I asked tech support about why that would be and they were clueless. Anyone here know?

It sucks that you had issues with a new set, but believe it or not, there are people that get LCDs and Plasmas that break down after the first few days. Some sets are just made wrong or with bad parts, regardless of the technology. Here's hoping they fix your set.

no offense, but retailers are not privy to every little thing a company is planning, and i seriously doubt that samsung is going to say to their sellers "oh by the way, our dlps really suck, so we're going to stop making them, but please keep it under your hat so it wont get out and be posted online." until i hear something official, i'm not believing any of it. Most people that give up quickly on dlps are under the false impression thet lcds and plasmas are problem-free, and they break down and have their own issues too.
I love my dlp!!!!!

x10

I wouldn't worry about the PQ being better on the 61. That has been mentioned, and I personally don't believe it. The PQ on the 67 is freaking awesome. Starship Troopers Blu-Ray was amazing, and LCD would never have been able to handle the motion as well, and Plasma would have cost an arm and a leg. Go in with a clean slate and without preconcieved notions, and you will likely be satisfied.

I have seen the 67 and the 61 side by side and was seeing no difference in the quality. I have read the posts and I stood there for a good while trying to see a drop in quality and the only thing noticeable was just the size and that was it.

I have seen the 67 and the 61 side by side and was seeing no difference in the quality. I have read the posts and I stood there for a good while trying to see a drop in quality and the only thing noticeable was just the size and that was it.

as someone who bought the 61a750 first, then returned it for 67a750, i can tell you first hand that the only differences I found (asides from the size obviously) is that the 61 is slightly brighter than the 67. When I had my 61 I can remember having to squint sometimes during night watching before adjusting the LED settings. That has only happened once or twice with the 67 and on very bright screen shots. as we all know the LED engine is at its limit with the 67, however it does a fine job of lighting the entire screen. I have NO problem watching my set during the day even with sun shining in.
as far as any discernible picture quality difference? ut uh. i dont think so.


Also the 67 has a bit more rigidity in the bezel around the screen as compared to the thinner bezel on the 61. IMO this helps out with the geometry issues to some extent since the frame is not as flimsy, thus the screen does move so easily when the set is moved at all.

As soon as i get my room painted i will buy a 61" or 67". I love size, even at a slight expense of PQ if sit too close to the set. My eyes should be about 8' from the front of the screen. Can I use the 67"?

My 67" arrived bright and early at 8am today, and any debate between the 61" and 67" has been put to rest. This set is perfect. It fits perfect on my new entertainment center. I feel like a little kid on Christmas morning. I put in Toy Story to get my settings right, and the picture is breath taking. Yes, I said breath taking. Soooooooo happy that I chose this set. I haven't had any geometry issues, the sounds works, no bowing effect. Just 67 inches of HD heaven. I can't wait for my PS3 to arrive so I can try out BlueRay, and play some Madden '09.

The delivery service made me laugh a little. They sent one guy, and I have about 15 steps that come down to my front yard and sidewalk. The delivery guy was going to put the box on a dolly to bring it down the steps. I thought that was really in poor taste, and asked if I gave him a hand if we could carry it down. He happily agreed. CEVA delivery guy was very nice. He helped me unpack the TV, and place it on the entertainment center. We went through the checklist that Big River requires (which I though was in very good taste). I signed my name, threw him a $5 spot, and he was off.

Here are the questions I have:

1.) Why is my "HDMI black level" not an option. I have HDMI from the STB to TV HDMI IN 1. The manual says that this option may not be available with all devices, but I can't see why it wouldn't. I have a Motorola HD STB.

2.) My PIP will only display the same channel as the main display. My question is if I split the cable connection before the STB straight to the Antenna input, then will the PIP display different stations? Right now I have the Cable Line to the STB, and then have the STB Cable Line out to the Antenna input on the TV.

I appologize if these issues have already been addressed.

As soon as i get my room painted i will buy a 61" or 67". I love size, even at a slight expense of PQ if sit too close to the set. My eyes should be about 8' from the front of the screen. Can I use the 67"?

go for the 67"
u will not regret it

Given the recent CEDIA news about the $7k price tag on the LaserVue, I am now back to seriously considering the Sammy LED DLP. I was thinking the same thing about the Darkchip4. Since I've waited this long to find out about the LaserVue, I wondered how much longer before a Sammy Darkchip4 is available. I haven't seen any info Googling yet.


I think you have to wait for next year's model to get DC4. I don't believe any Sammy LED sets use it yet.

Given the recent CEDIA news about the $7k price tag on the LaserVue, I am now back to seriously considering the Sammy LED DLP. I was thinking the same thing about the Darkchip4. Since I've waited this long to find out about the LaserVue, I wondered how much longer before a Sammy Darkchip4 is available. I haven't seen any info Googling yet.

probably not until next years models

I'm considering the 61" 750. In the past I've noticed that on some rear projection sets (such as the sony sxrd) and even on some LCD sets the blacks have had a navy-bluish tint to them. I'm not expecting CRT-like blacks on this set, but I would be happy so long as they are at least a shade of black and not blue at all. Can anyone confirm this is the case with the 750 series?

I'm considering the 61" 750. In the past I've noticed that on some rear projection sets (such as the sony sxrd) and even on some LCD sets the blacks have had a navy-bluish tint to them. I'm not expecting CRT-like blacks on this set, but I would be happy so long as they are at least a shade of black and not blue at all. Can anyone confirm this is the case with the 750 series?

i think it has pretty good blacks

The company that makes Vizio products, Syntax-Brillian, filed for bankruptcy in June. They are basically a contract manufacturer, buying B-grade panels from companies like Samsung and putting them in cases they designed. I don't know whose electronics they use.

Go for the Samsung. Besides, it's bigger :)

Your confused and incorrect.

Syntax-Brillian did file for bankruptcy, but their brand of TV's is Olevia.

Vizio is not related to Syntax-Brillian in any way.

Hi all,

I got my 67A750 yesterday and am enjoying it immensely. I have a question though.

When I push the "info" button on the remote, it displays the source along with the resolution. I did this when I was running a BD connected via HDMI and saw 720X480. Shouldn't this be displaying the the 1080P resolution (1920x1080)?

I see other instances of resolution that TV's display as being the source resolution, but my source is 1080P bluray.

I have a Samsung BD2550 and a quick look throught the remote options and the manual don't show any options for changing resolution.

Am I missing something?

Hi all,

I got my 67A750 yesterday and am enjoying it immensely. I have a question though.

When I push the "info" button on the remote, it displays the source along with the resolution. I did this when I was running a BD connected via HDMI and saw 720X480. Shouldn't this be displaying the the 1080P resolution (1920x1080)?

I see other instances of resolution that TV's display as being the source resolution, but my source is 1080P bluray.

I have a Samsung BD2550 and a quick look throught the remote options and the manual don't show any options for changing resolution.

Am I missing something?

it should display 1920x1080p @24Hz or 60Hz

Hi all,

I got my 67A750 yesterday and am enjoying it immensely. I have a question though.

When I push the "info" button on the remote, it displays the source along with the resolution. I did this when I was running a BD connected via HDMI and saw 720X480. Shouldn't this be displaying the the 1080P resolution (1920x1080)?

I see other instances of resolution that TV's display as being the source resolution, but my source is 1080P bluray.

I have a Samsung BD2550 and a quick look throught the remote options and the manual don't show any options for changing resolution.

Am I missing something?

When you press "Info" it shows the source resolution. If it is showing 720x480 with your BD player, something is not set correctly on the player. You may want to ask how to change the resolution in the Blu-ray Players forum.

When you press "Info" it shows the source resolution. If it is showing 720x480 with your BD player, something is not set correctly on the player. You may want to ask how to change the resolution in the Blu-ray Players forum.

Were you watching an extra on the bluray at the time also? This could have caused the message you saw.. Not all extras are in HD.

Also make sure the BD disc itself says 1080p. Some PS3 games say 720p on them, and therefore will only play in 720p. Or also can be the BD componet's settings. What are you using for a BD player? If you are using a PS3 for some reason I experienced GTA loading in 720p only, even though it's 1080P. Fix: I went into PS3 settings and unchecked where it said "My TV is capable of 720p". For some reason it only allowed 720p to pass.

Your confused and incorrect.

Syntax-Brillian did file for bankruptcy, but their brand of TV's is Olevia.

Vizio is not related to Syntax-Brillian in any way.

I stand corrected.

(Posted in Owner's Thread, but thought it applied here too.)

While doing a price search I went to the Sears site--they no longer have the Sammy DLPs listed. I went to the local Sears last evening, and they weren't on the floor. The two sales guys said they don't carry them anymore. When I asked why, they said, "No demand". I said, "Well I may have bought one..", and said, "Thanks anyway". Unless something is up, I think Sears may just not want to mess with them as the LCDs and Plasmas probably have a bigger profit margin. However, I was just odd that all the other electronics stores in the area are still carrying them (i.e. BB, CC, Fry's, HHG)???

Any thoughts?

So whats up with the prices over the last week? I was waiting for some big Labor Day sales that never materialized. Now the 67" seems to have jumped at least $100 everywhere.

Seems my luck at waiting for TV prices matches my luck/skill in the stock market.

(Posted in Owner's Thread, but thought it applied here too.)

While doing a price search I went to the Sears site--they no longer have the Sammy DLPs listed. I went to the local Sears last evening, and they weren't on the floor. The two sales guys said they don't carry them anymore. When I asked why, they said, "No demand". I said, "Well I may have bought one..", and said, "Thanks anyway". Unless something is up, I think Sears may just not want to mess with them as the LCDs and Plasmas probably have a bigger profit margin. However, I was just odd that all the other electronics stores in the area are still carrying them (i.e. BB, CC, Fry's, HHG)???

Any thoughts?

See my reply in Owner's Thread.

it should display 1920x1080p @24Hz or 60Hz

I have noticed mine also shows it just at 1080 without the P at the end. I had the same questiong also and verified my settings on the PS3.

I have noticed mine also shows it just at 1080 without the P at the end. I had the same questiong also and verified my settings on the PS3.

when i watch a blu ray movie my tv shows 1920x1080p @24HZ
AND 1920x1080i @60HZ when i watch directv using my HDDVR

So whats up with the prices over the last week? I was waiting for some big Labor Day sales that never materialized. Now the 67" seems to have jumped at least $100 everywhere.

Seems my luck at waiting for TV prices matches my luck/skill in the stock market.

I was at my local BB on saturday and was quoted $1984 for the 67"

(Posted in Owner's Thread, but thought it applied here too.)

While doing a price search I went to the Sears site--they no longer have the Sammy DLPs listed. I went to the local Sears last evening, and they weren't on the floor. The two sales guys said they don't carry them anymore. When I asked why, they said, "No demand". I said, "Well I may have bought one..", and said, "Thanks anyway". Unless something is up, I think Sears may just not want to mess with them as the LCDs and Plasmas probably have a bigger profit margin. However, I was just odd that all the other electronics stores in the area are still carrying them (i.e. BB, CC, Fry's, HHG)???

Any thoughts?

maybe "no demand " at sears

I was at my local BB on saturday and was quoted $1984 for the 67"

Hmmm, there online price went way up. Its show 2499 right now. Amazon went up to 2099. CC is 2099 as well. Did you have to negotiate this your price?

Hmmm, there online price went way up. Its show 2499 right now. Amazon went up to 2099. CC is 2099 as well. Did you have to negotiate this your price?

nope .
as a matter of fact i bought my 67" at CC for $1984 2 weeks ago and the BB manager said he would price match it

nope .
as a matter of fact i bought my 67" at CC for $1984 2 weeks ago and the BB manager said he would price match it


Now how did you do that! :D

Now how did you do that! :D

i love this tv so much i am getting a 2nd one from tweeter for the same $1984
i asked them to price match CC over the phone and they did no questions asked getting it friday

well, i've had my 67" 750 for ~5 weeks now and was loving it...that is, until tonight when it started flashing pink over the screen on what seems to be all the inputs (at least the cable input and the HDMI1 input). i called a buddy and it's NOT the broadcast...plus, when i pause the Tivo, the screen still flickers pink. what a night for it to happen...the start of MNF! luckily, i have the 50" version in my loft and have been watching the game(s) upstairs.

i called Samsung and they're sending a local company out Thursday morning...hopefully the repair guy can fix it before Saturday's Ohio State @ USC game.

I have noticed mine also shows it just at 1080 without the P at the end. I had the same questiong also and verified my settings on the PS3.

I asked this question as well to the CC manager and they said that the DLP doesn't display 'p". It will display "i". But now that I see that someone posted his BD player displays "p" I question that.

With the Sat/Cable boxes they only for now broad cast up to "i". When using a PS3 I just get "1080" @ 24 or 60. Eveything is set up correctly on the PS3 and I have played around with it quite extenisvely.

well, i've had my 67" 750 for ~5 weeks now and was loving it...that is, until tonight when it started flashing pink over the screen on what seems to be all the inputs (at least the cable input and the HDMI1 input). i called a buddy and it's NOT the broadcast...plus, when i pause the Tivo, the screen still flickers pink. what a night for it to happen...the start of MNF! luckily, i have the 50" version in my loft and have been watching the game(s) upstairs.

i called Samsung and they're sending a local company out Thursday morning...hopefully the repair guy can fix it before Saturday's Ohio State @ USC game.

Something is not right with these 67''s, so many people experiencing trouble. That is a real shame. No problems here to speak of with my 61", coulnd't be more happier with it.

(Posted in Owner's Thread, but thought it applied here too.)

While doing a price search I went to the Sears site--they no longer have the Sammy DLPs listed. I went to the local Sears last evening, and they weren't on the floor. The two sales guys said they don't carry them anymore. When I asked why, they said, "No demand". I said, "Well I may have bought one..", and said, "Thanks anyway". Unless something is up, I think Sears may just not want to mess with them as the LCDs and Plasmas probably have a bigger profit margin. However, I was just odd that all the other electronics stores in the area are still carrying them (i.e. BB, CC, Fry's, HHG)???

Any thoughts?

Definately sounds like Sears wants to sell the more expensive LCD's. DLP's are awesome and imo display the best picture for viewing movies. With an LCD it makes things look to digitized, plus an LCD is unprotected at the screen, say if someone inadvertently threw an object at the screen it would break most likely and you would be out alot of cash. Sure LCD's are brighter, espeically in well lit stores, but once you get the DLP home and into a rear viewing enviroment it looks absolutely spectacular. I would never shell out unecessary money to purchase a LCD which also is alot smaller not to mention. DLP's keep everything natural and real looking and I don't have to worry about the baseball effect either unlike an LCD.

DLP's are a popular seller at CC, I had to order my 61' 750 because it was sold out at CC.

So who among the AVS group has had the 67" A750 set the longest...any problems with it?

Has anyone put some serious hours on one yet without problems?

I've almost pulled the trigger twice but repeatedly hearing/reading about Samsungs questionable reliablility/build quality keeps bringing me back from the edge.

Something is not right with these 67''s, so many people experiencing trouble. That is a real shame. No problems here to speak of with my 61", coulnd't be more happier with it.


My impression is just the opposite. The 67s seem to have fewer problems, and less complaints about flimsy frames and the geometry issues. Mine is flawless.

Of course, these boards represent only a small percentage of users overall.

I would go with whatever suits you best, and buy from a dealer with a reasonable return policy.

I also like extended warranties for these new techs, just shop around for the best deal. :)

is the 'tilt' issue actual physical tilt of the frame ? Just have taken delivery on a 61 led and if I measure with a ruler from the wall behind the tv to the bottom edge of the frame its is a little over 1 inch closer to the wall then the top of the frame . It makes me feel the TV is leaning forward at the top. Am I wrong in thinking this is not normal ?

plus an LCD is unprotected at the screen, say if someone inadvertently threw an object at the screen it would break most likely and you would be out alot of cash.
If someone throws an object at a DLP screen, it too will break and you'll be out a lot of cash to fix it. I'm not sure I would count on replacement screens being available for a DLP set and if they are, they certainly aren't going to be cheap.

But this doesn't strike me as a realistic issue to worry about when choosing a display technology, especially since damage can be caused to all the display types by throwing something at the screen. The simple solution is to train both kids and adults who come anywhere near your TV to not throw things at it :) (or at anything else in the house other than perhaps a dart board).

If someone throws an object at a DLP screen, it too will break and you'll be out a lot of cash to fix it. I'm not sure I would count on replacement screens being available for a DLP set and if they are, they certainly aren't going to be cheap.

But this doesn't strike me as a realistic issue to worry about when choosing a display technology, especially since damage can be caused to all the display types by throwing something at the screen. The simple solution is to train both kids and adults who come anywhere near your TV to not throw things at it :) (or at anything else in the house other than perhaps a dart board).

I think the poster was referring to the fact that LCD screens are glass (sandwiches) and are fairly rigid. Even with less than a full fracture you could still damage a section of the actual LCD cells. On a RPTV the screen is typically plastic, and actually has some flex and gives when hit or pressed. Short of being shot at, it might be more likely a RPTV screen will pop out of the frame before cracking.

Not that I disagree about training kids and adults!

If someone throws an object at a DLP screen, it too will break and you'll be out a lot of cash to fix it. I'm not sure I would count on replacement screens being available for a DLP set and if they are, they certainly aren't going to be cheap.

But this doesn't strike me as a realistic issue to worry about when choosing a display technology, especially since damage can be caused to all the display types by throwing something at the screen. The simple solution is to train both kids and adults who come anywhere near your TV to not throw things at it :) (or at anything else in the house other than perhaps a dart board).

In most cases you can manipulate your warranty to cover the screen on the DLP, providing you can manipulate it into being a faulty problem. With an LCD, you have far more concerns like pixels dieing, and if you had a warranty they can't replace the screen on a LCD, they would have to give you an entire new set. The plastic on the DLP is flexible and most likely could with stand more punishment vs an LCD as the screen flexes to an extent. I read somewhere where this guy bought a brand new LCD only to have his IDW throw a toy at it and break the LCD screen. He was out the cost of a new LCD TV. I protect my home theater equipment like a bank vault if in the event we have a gathering and someone brings their children over. Stringing an electric wire used to deter Deer from accessing your plants will easily do the trick, also forwarning the parents about the protective barrier when they first arrive at the house makes them parent the child with better abilities. I've had my speakers tweeters pushed in by an IDW years ago and a HiFI VCR damaged and a $200.00 sony commander remote picked up and dropped on a hard floor and broke, I vowed never to leave my home theather and it's accessories vulnerable to any IDW again.

If someone throws an object at a DLP screen, it too will break and you'll be out a lot of cash to fix it. I'm not sure I would count on replacement screens being available for a DLP set and if they are, they certainly aren't going to be cheap.

But this doesn't strike me as a realistic issue to worry about when choosing a display technology, especially since damage can be caused to all the display types by throwing something at the screen. The simple solution is to train both kids and adults who come anywhere near your TV to not throw things at it :) (or at anything else in the house other than perhaps a dart board).

Shortly after ordering my 67'' yesterday, I realized I am going to have to come up with a plan to keep the kids (or their projectiles) away from the TV. Fortunately the TV will not be in the main family area, but the kids sometimes frequent it. I was thinking something along the lines of that plate armor that automatically molded around the Batmobile in the first of the modern Batman movies (circa '88). Otherwise, I was seriously thinking of constructing some sort of protective curtain around it that can be opened/closed as necessary.

My old Standard Def. 50'' RPTV never took a hit, but there were a few close calls. This model seems more fragile than the old monster, so we will see.

P.S. Does anyone have that Mack warranty? Would that cover a damaged screen?

Update: Nevermind--It says, "Accidental damage from abuse is not covered". :-(

Perhaps Loyds of London would cover it???

P.S. Does anyone have that Mack warranty? Would that cover a damaged screen?

Update: Nevermind--It says, "Accidental damage from abuse is not covered". :-(

Perhaps Loyds of London would cover it???

Yeah thanks to Gustav, I missed out on being able to get the Mack warranty:mad:

...Stringing an electric wire used to deter Deer from accessing your plants will easily do the trick...

Great thinking...that'll keep the little bastards at bay. :eek:

Perhaps someone knows where we could get some surplus landmines, or there's always the old standby, a moat filled with pirhanas. :rolleyes:

Warranties do not include attorneys fees, I'm fairly certain, though I'm assuming your post was in jest. :D

BTW,what is an IDW?

I asked this question as well to the CC manager and they said that the DLP doesn't display 'p". It will display "i". But now that I see that someone posted his BD player displays "p" I question that.

With the Sat/Cable boxes they only for now broad cast up to "i". When using a PS3 I just get "1080" @ 24 or 60. Eveything is set up correctly on the PS3 and I have played around with it quite extenisvely.

The salesman is either stupid or a liar. This comes from the same store chain that tries to push people into getting a warranty because "the LED will need replacing". I suppose Samsung must just be lying and opening themselves up to legal trouble by claiming 1080p falsely.

Great thinking...that'll keep the little bastards at bay. :eek:

Perhaps someone knows where we could get some surplus landmines, or there's always the old standby, a moat filled with pirhanas. :rolleyes:

Warranties do not include attorneys fees, I'm fairly certain, though I'm assuming your post was in jest. :D

BTW,what is an IDW?


IDW= Illiterate diaper wetter.

To help protect against projectile's, you should think about getting a good quality pond netting. You can attach it to the ceiling, using stapels and have it draped down to floor and put some weight on the floor ontop of net to give it some tension. And ofcoarse, the net should be at least say 3 ft away from your expensive toys. Then you can easily roll up net, or if you have the room behind your expensive toys, place net behind it.

This is a fairly inexpensive solution, to help stop flying projectiles launched from IDW's.

BTW I also have a Rottweiler and a Pittbull that would protect the entire room, but may eat the IDW's on site. Oh an another thing that helps keep IDW's out of my media room is my Boston Acoustic sub woofer, the IDW's seem to retreat from the loud deep base sound. So sonic protection is also a great weapon.

The salesman is either stupid or a liar. This comes from the same store chain that tries to push people into getting a warranty because "the LED will need replacing". I suppose Samsung must just be lying and opening themselves up to legal trouble by claiming 1080p falsely.

So how do I get it to display 1080p? I know my cable box is only 1080i, but my PS3? It will display 1080.

The salemen delivered my 61" in a scion XB, so yea he must be stupid, because only an idiot would drive a card board box on wheels.

I think the poster was referring to the fact that LCD screens are glass (sandwiches) and are fairly rigid. Even with less than a full fracture you could still damage a section of the actual LCD cells. On a RPTV the screen is typically plastic, and actually has some flex and gives when hit or pressed. Short of being shot at, it might be more likely a RPTV screen will pop out of the frame before cracking.
It's true that the DLP screen is likely more resistant to damage. But my point was more along the lines of preventing oneself from getting into the situation where this becomes an issue. Not intending to get into telling others how to raise their kids, but when I was little, there was this constant fear of death if I broke anything in the house :D. My parents certainly didn't abuse me or anything, but they didn't let me get away with much either - when they said "NO", there was follow through if needed. It kills me when I see little kids who are allowed to get away with literally anything. We don't have my cousin's family at our house because their 2 kids are absolute monsters (these 2 pretty much don't know the meaning of the word "NO").

Not that I disagree about training kids and adults!
Some adults are just as bad as kids.

Oh, and that guy from the "wanna get away?" Wii commercial is NOT welcome at my house :D. Though I did fall on the floor laughing the first few times I saw that commercial.

Here are some good videos to play on your Samsung DLP.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nupu5QVhULo

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NH9ZXfZ_v8w

Does Samsung cover 1 bulb in the first year under warranty? I've seen conflicting info... could swear I saw 1 bulb coverage on their site, but cant remember where i saw it.

I'm this > < close to buying the 50" 650....


Thanks!
//john

So how do I get it to display 1080p? I know my cable box is only 1080i, but my PS3? It will display 1080.

The salemen delivered my 61" in a scion XB, so yea he must be stupid, because only an idiot would drive a card board box on wheels.

Are you talking about the set itself, or the little info display in the upper left corner that tells you what resolution is being INPUT?

The set ONLY displays 1080P. Any non-1080P source is upconverted/de-interlaced.

FWIW :)

Great thinking...that'll keep the little bastards at bay. :eek:

Perhaps someone knows where we could get some surplus landmines, or there's always the old standby, a moat filled with pirhanas. :rolleyes:

Warranties do not include attorneys fees, I'm fairly certain, though I'm assuming your post was in jest. :D

BTW,what is an IDW?

Just be careful and make sure you get directional landmines--you don't want any of the shrapnel to inadvertently scratch the screen. ;)

Are you talking about the set itself, or the little info display in the upper left corner that tells you what resolution is being INPUT?

The set ONLY displays 1080P. Any non-1080P source is upconverted/de-interlaced.

FWIW :)

The info display. Someone posted that they saw 1080p in their info display and I have never seen 1080p in my info display, only 1080 or 1080i.

Yeah thanks to Gustav, I missed out on being able to get the Mack warranty:mad:

If your really interested shoot them an email. They sound reasonable when I purchased (I was within the time frame but the email message said "do not be concerned if you were nearing your 30 days. Your warranty order will be mailed via the US Postal Service so please be sure to watch your mailbox for your order in the next 7-14 days and get your warranty registered online as soon as it is received. You have a fresh 30 days from the date of warranty purchase to get it registered online with Mack. If you have any further questions, please let me know.".

Explain your situation maybe they will listen. It's worth a try.

...Sure LCD's are brighter, espeically in well lit stores, but once you get the DLP home and into a rear viewing enviroment it looks absolutely spectacular. I would never shell out unecessary money to purchase a LCD which also is alot smaller not to mention. DLP's keep everything natural and real looking and I don't have to worry about the baseball effect either unlike an LCD.

DLP's are a popular seller at CC, I had to order my 61' 750 because it was sold out at CC.
I just took delivery of my new 67A750 and your comments are spot on. I already have a great Samsung LCD in the bedroom and didn't think the DLP was going to match it, but it does. And I tried to first buy it at CC but they were out of stock at all stores within a 30 mile radius, so I got it from Amazon instead. IMHO, this is simply the best value in HDTV at the moment.

Mickey

The info display. Someone posted that they saw 1080p in their info display and I have never seen 1080p in my info display, only 1080 or 1080i.

are you sure it says 1080i?

mine only shows 1080 not i or p? am I doing something wrong here:o

are you sure it says 1080i?

mine only shows 1080 not i or p? am I doing something wrong here:o

I'll check mine when I get home and check on this so you have some type of clarification.

are you sure it says 1080i?

mine only shows 1080 not i or p? am I doing something wrong here:o

Yours says only 1080 using what source? When I'm watching HD, it will display 1080i using HDMI cable. My cable box only goes up to 1080i output. WHen I use my PS3 is will say 1080 using also an HDMI. I have my PS3 settings on 1080p too. Someone said their Samsung displayed 1080p, CC mananger said that the Samsung DLP's never say 1080p, just 1080 or 1080i. I would like to verify and find the truth here.

What I am thinking here is 1080 means an upconvert signal, 1080i being a better signal then 1080, and 1080p being a better signal then 1080i.

are you sure it says 1080i?

mine only shows 1080 not i or p? am I doing something wrong here:o

My Samsung DLPs have always displayed '1080' for a 1080P for either 24 or 60 inputs. '1080i' for 1080I input or '720p' for that input.

you are right, my samsung does say 1080i when I have my xbox 360 plugged into it...
but it does not show 1080p....for 1080p it just displays 1080

you are right, my samsung does say 1080i when I have my xbox 360 plugged into it...
but it does not show 1080p....for 1080p it just displays 1080

It will show 1080P24.

If your really interested shoot them an email. They sound reasonable when I purchased (I was within the time frame but the email message said "do not be concerned if you were nearing your 30 days. Your warranty order will be mailed via the US Postal Service so please be sure to watch your mailbox for your order in the next 7-14 days and get your warranty registered online as soon as it is received. You have a fresh 30 days from the date of warranty purchase to get it registered online with Mack. If you have any further questions, please let me know.".

Explain your situation maybe they will listen. It's worth a try.

thanks for the heads up

My 67 A750 says 1920x1080i at 60 for my HD-DVR, 1920x1080 (no i or p) at 24 when watching Blu-Ray on my PS3. The PS3 is outputting at 1080p.

My 67 A750 says 1920x1080i at 60 for my HD-DVR, 1920x1080 (no i or p) at 24 when watching Blu-Ray on my PS3. The PS3 is outputting at 1080p.

Then the PS3 is outputting 1080P60.
For 1080P60 the Samsung shows 1080. This is for my LED DLP and my LCD Samsung.
For 1080i it shows 1080i
For 1080P24 it shows 1080P24(or something like that. I'm not in front of it right now but 1080 will be on the info screen and 24 is also on the info screen too)

which warranty are u guys going with for your tv's?

check out CC latest price for the 67"
$2099 -$100(special coupon) = $1999

Then the PS3 is outputting 1080P60.
For 1080P60 the Samsung shows 1080. This is for my LED DLP and my LCD Samsung.
For 1080i it shows 1080i
For 1080P24 it shows 1080P24(or something like that. I'm not in front of it right now but 1080 will be on the info screen and 24 is also on the info screen too)

Could you please post a picture with your LED DLP displaying 1080P. If so what is your firmware version?

Could you please post a picture with your LED DLP displaying 1080P. If so what is your firmware version?

Yea I second that request also. Whne my PS3 plays a BD @ 24 or 60 it always says 1080. There never is a "p or i" displayed. The only time I ever see an "i" is when the HD cable box is being used.

I don't think the samsung HD will display the "p", I think when it's full 1080 it will just say 1080 and thats it.

Yea I second that request also. Whne my PS3 plays a BD @ 24 or 60 it always says 1080. There never is a "p or i" displayed. The only time I ever see an "i" is when the HD cable box is being used.

I don't think the samsung HD will display the "p", I think when it's full 1080 it will just say 1080 and thats it.

Agreed. That seems strange but maybe the thinking was they wanted it to display it when it was less than full 1080p, but just showing 1080 for full 1080p resolution.

FYI: With my Sammy 67" on order from Crutchfield (with the free stand), I've been monitoring price changes. When I checked this morning, they are no longer offering the free stand, but same price as I paid--so, not the best deal at the moment.

check out CC latest price for the 67"
$2099 -$100(special coupon) = $1999

Where do you see the "special coupon"?

gotta love that i got my 750 replacement set delivered yesterday, except they delivered the 650 LOL. now i'm waiting for another

just thought i would follow up with this. so, they delivered my set to someone else, who called 2 days ago to say he got the wrong set as well. which, i told samsung since wednesday the 3r since i had his packing slip.

everytime i call samsung to see whats going on, all they say is that they are still waiting for a response from the exchange and ordering dept, but they will email again. apparantly they can only email other departments. so, as of today, i still have no updated info since the day they delivered the wrong tv, and insisted i keep the 650 while they take my 750. i can't get any info on whats going on, and nobody seems to be responding to the issue at samsung, all they tell me is they can give me the mailing address of the presidents office. i don't understand why they can't pick up a phone and call the other dept to figure out whats going on.

Couldn't you dispute the charge on your credit card and just order another one? That might get them motivated. Call your credit card company and tell them of the situation to make sure you won't get dinged late charges or interest. Just a thought.

Couldn't you dispute the charge on your credit card and just order another one? That might get them motivated. Call your credit card company and tell them of the situation to make sure you won't get dinged late charges or interest. Just a thought.

thats very possible, but i've had it for maybe 4 months now, with a tech coming out not being able to do anything, don't think he's qualified. so they sent another 1. and i could dispute the charge, except i do have the 650 sitting there, not sure how that would work.

i'm sure it will get resolved, and i never expected it to be next day or anything, i just need some information on what the heck is going on, and after a week of no response, i would think the dept would seek alternative contact methods. so odd.

I would at least give your credit card company a call...it might be too late. I know I sold a lens and 6 months later the guy disputed the charge and they reversed it. The guy bought it for his dad and the dad didn't recognize the name. So it might be worth a try. Good luck. It has to be frustrating.

I would at least give your credit card company a call...it might be too late. I know I sold a lens and 6 months later the guy disputed the charge and they reversed it. The guy bought it for his dad and the dad didn't recognize the name. So it might be worth a try. Good luck. It has to be frustrating.

well, the 650 isn't that bad to hold me over i guess, it's still the 61", more or less it's the same. although, just takes longer to turn on and get a good picture, and i see the rainbow affect alot

My new 61-inch is going to be delivered on Monday. Got a great deal from OneCall: $1699 + free universal remote (a very nice one too) + free shipping.

I understand this set supports discrete codes for on/off and input selects, as opposed to toggling via the remote. Does anyone know if the included remote has any secret key combinations to send these discrete remote control codes, which I then can learn on my universal remote? (These are essential for use with macros which I heavily use to make our complex AV-system usable by my non-techical wife.) Some AV products have this feature of sending discrete codes via secret keys. Also, does anyone know if there are discrete codes to select the picture zoom settings, which also may be important for watching non-HD sources.

If there is nothing, it looks like I will have to spend a couple hours with JP1 to get the codes programmed into my universal remote.

Where do you see the "special coupon"?

use this coupon code at checkout

2YAVY8TAFG

use this coupon code at checkout

2YAVY8TAFG

Trying to get them to honor this coupon for an order placed 3 days ago...so far no luck, but I'm still working on it. :-)

Trying to get them to honor this coupon for an order placed 3 days ago...so far no luck, but I'm still working on it. :-)

they have to pricematch their own prices

they have to pricematch their own prices

You would think that...but they're putting up a huge fight...claiming that they don't pricematch when it's a coupon. That seems like BS to me, since they can just keep offering bigger and bigger coupons and claim that the price hasn't gone down.

The interesting part is that there is a no questions asked return policy with no re-stocking fees (for televisions). So, I may ultimately be forced to "return" this TV, and purchase another one for $100 less. If they ask why I'm returning it I'll explain their stupid coupon policy to them.

-Kevin

Edit:
Except now the coupon is GONE, and the price has gone up! I knew I should have ordered a "replacement" last night, and scheduled delivery for a week out so I could cancel it if they honored the coupon...Oh well.

You would think that...but they're putting up a huge fight...claiming that they don't pricematch when it's a coupon. That seems like BS to me, since they can just keep offering bigger and bigger coupons and claim that the price hasn't gone down.

The interesting part is that there is a no questions asked return policy with no re-stocking fees (for televisions). So, I may ultimately be forced to "return" this TV, and purchase another one for $100 less. If they ask why I'm returning it I'll explain their stupid coupon policy to them.

-Kevin

Edit:
Except now the coupon is GONE, and the price has gone up! I knew I should have ordered a "replacement" last night, and scheduled delivery for a week out so I could cancel it if they honored the coupon...Oh well.

take the tv back and buy it somewhere else like tweeter
i guess i got lucky i paid $1984 at CC 3 weeks ago

I was in CC today returning some things and the couple in line in front of me where complaining about how their Samsung 67" 750 was turning off alot of times on them. CC was setting up an appointment to go out to them and look at the TV for an exchange. I remember reading here about people also having this problem.

im a bit troubled with all things dlp right now, especially samsung. the new models (especially the 650s) havent been out for very long and already retailers are really running low on inventory with no clear objectives to replenish them.

i was really close to buying a 50" 650, until i realized all the nearby locations were out. then i caught the 56" on sale for only an additional $200+free shipping, but them immediately started seeing major discounted on the 750 series --- (why such big discounts??)

it all comes down to whether or not i want to buy a bulb based set when such sets are starting to go away--- or buying into an LED based set which *may* go away. and lets not forget led dlp isn't that old. considering bulbs have been around for a while, im more comfortable going that route. but the chance that bulb costs will jump if samsung leaves the market is giving me grief.

i cant imagine large lcds jumping to giant price points just because dlps arent in high supply. the fact is the market for large screens is large, the market for large expensive screens is not. so pricing a large lcd at a reasonable price is not out of the question since they'll bank on quantity.

my new theory is to wait until xmas for sale prices. if major news of product end of life comes out, prices should be even lower and/or competition in the form of lcd might be making it's arrival (or at least news thereof)

anyone agree? disagree?

im a bit troubled with all things dlp right now, especially samsung. the new models (especially the 650s) havent been out for very long and already retailers are really running low on inventory with no clear objectives to replenish them.

i was really close to buying a 50" 650, until i realized all the nearby locations were out. then i caught the 56" on sale for only an additional $200+free shipping, but them immediately started seeing major discounted on the 750 series --- (why such big discounts??)

it all comes down to whether or not i want to buy a bulb based set when such sets are starting to go away--- or buying into an LED based set which *may* go away. and lets not forget led dlp isn't that old. considering bulbs have been around for a while, im more comfortable going that route. but the chance that bulb costs will jump if samsung leaves the market is giving me grief.

i cant imagine large lcds jumping to giant price points just because dlps arent in high supply. the fact is the market for large screens is large, the market for large expensive screens is not. so pricing a large lcd at a reasonable price is not out of the question since they'll bank on quantity.

my new theory is to wait until xmas for sale prices. if major news of product end of life comes out, prices should be even lower and/or competition in the form of lcd might be making it's arrival (or at least news thereof)

anyone agree? disagree?

I wouldn't really consider a 650 a new model anymore. Most likely the sparce supply of 650's is due to the new 750's hitting the stores. Many people would want to buy the 750 vs the 650. Usually when a newer model comes out, the stores will try to sell off remaining older inventory as fast as possible, though they still have an ample supply in their main warehouse like CC did.
You can wait, and wait and wait and.... Price will always drop, question is what are you willing to pay. Whne I bought my first HDTV 6 years ago, I paid over $2000.00 and that was a 46". Recently I winded up paying only $1649.00 for a 61" so I am satisfied with price, plus I got latest model. (750).

I wouldn't really consider a 650 a new model anymore. Most likely the sparce supply of 650's is due to the new 750's hitting the stores. Many people would want to buy the 750 vs the 650. Usually when a newer model comes out, the stores will try to sell off remaining older inventory as fast as possible, though they still have an ample supply in their main warehouse like CC did.
You can wait, and wait and wait and.... Price will always drop, question is what are you willing to pay. Whne I bought my first HDTV 6 years ago, I paid over $2000.00 and that was a 46". Recently I winded up paying only $1649.00 for a 61" so I am satisfied with price, plus I got latest model. (750).

Actually, 650 and 750 are both current models. 650 is bulb, 750 is LED.

That said, go for the 750. :)

jmdgls, the HL50A650 was on sale at BB recently for $899 and I got my HL56A650 for $1160. So there are nice sales out there especially on the smaller A650s. No doubt you'll find better (especially on larger sizes and the A750) if you wait but sooner or later you have to decide or start all over with the 2009 models.

As moonhawk said the A650 and A750 are both 2008 models, both announced at the last CES. The A750 was available for sale a week or so before the A650 in fact.

Actually, 650 and 750 are both current models. 650 is bulb, 750 is LED.

That said, go for the 750. :)

Yes 650 is a current model, but it came out in early 07? The 750 on the other hand (The model I have) came out June 08. The LED is better then the bulb, it is 40% brighter according to Samsungs website, it looks more like 50% brighter to me. Alot better picture, darker blacks. Someone posted a concern about bulbs might be not available in near future. I wouldn't bank on that. Just because LED is now being used in the 750, there are alot of people out there who have 650's and older sets. There is money to be made in bulb replacement, so I highly doubt they would stop making the bulbs for the older sets. The bulbs are around $200.00 from what I read.

I intially bought the HL56A650 and had a problem with picture, the black color on screen got all spotty looking and I opted to return the TV for an exchange. I then opted to upgrade to the HL61750 because after seeing the difference with the LED and the bigger screen size I was sold on it. I love the 61", great size for my media room and the black color is just fantastic looking on screen.

jmdgls, the HL50A650 was on sale at BB recently for $899 and I got my HL56A650 for $1160. So there are nice sales out there especially on the smaller A650s. No doubt you'll find better (especially on larger sizes and the A750) if you wait but sooner or later you have to decide or start all over with the 2009 models.

As moonhawk said the A650 and A750 are both 2008 models, both announced at the last CES. The A750 was available for sale a week or so before the A650 in fact.

One of my clients purchased the A650 in July 2007. Also if you look at the sticker on back of the TV it will most likely say 2007 on it. There very well be the case that some may say 08 on them, thats only because the 750's only came in 61" & 67" in LED. Samsung had not built a 56" in LED as far as I know yet.

One of my clients purchased the A650 in July 2007. Also if you look at the sticker on back of the TV it will most likely say 2007 on it. There very well be the case that some may say 08 on them, thats only because the 750's only came in 61" & 67" in LED. Samsung had not built a 56" in LED as far as I know yet.

Ummmm...

Maybe a 650 LCD model?

Not the 650 LED DLP.

Samsung built a 56" LED DLP the first two years of production, and discontinued that size in this, the third year models.

2 months shy of the end of my 4yr service contract BB can't replace the broken HDMI input board on my Toshi 46" RP-HDtv that I've loved these past 4 years...I really liked it's colors and hope that Sammi's stretch modes work as well (read minimally/subtely) as Toshi's...

...anyway, BB called today and authorized a replacement under the contract and the best deal is the 50A650...$200 delivered with another 4 year service contract...(less Rewards reward, less selling off my Radio Shack HD tuner I've used to get OTA-HD...)

A good deal but with a couple of losses compared with my Toshi...

I googled-searched and could find no indication of any video output...I've used s-vid output to record to my PC and burn CDs...without it I have only the ability to record out from the cable box (NOT HD) or keep my stand-alone Accurian HD tuner (my Toshi had no HD tuner)...

IS THERE REALLY NO VIDEO OUTPUT?!?!? Next to the lack of PiP (not a real loss as I can watch another channel on my PC fed from the cable box), that'd be a real drag.

I've kept an eye on this great forum for the past 4 years, and learned a lot from your input...thanks in advance for it all...

Anyone know the box size of the HL67A750? Does it arrive on a pallette?

Anyone know the box size of the HL67A750? Does it arrive on a pallette?

It's in the first post here.

Anyone know the box size of the HL67A750? Does it arrive on a pallette?
It's in the first post here.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1029686

Ummmm...

Maybe a 650 LCD model?

Not the 650 LED DLP.


The 750's are the LED models, the 650's have the incadescent bulb.

Thanks - and I just read that this past weekend. Guess I've slept since then.

The 750's are the LED models, the 650's have the incadescent bulb.


Doh!! :o

What I meant was the 650 bought in 2007 was not a DLP, as they were not yet released, and was perhaps a Sammy LCD model.

The 750's are the LED models, the 650's have the incadescent bulb.


The lamp models don't use incandescent bulbs but instead HID (High Intensity Discharge) lamps.

[ When the light in the TV comes from a HID lamp, an electronic ballast is needed to control the lamp. The HID lamp is comprised of two opposing electrodes in a high-pressure gas-filled bulb. The high-pressure gas must be broken down for current to flow in the lamp, and consequently, a high-voltage circuit is used to generate a 30-kV impulse to create an arc within the bulb's gas. ]

Source: http://powerelectronics.com/power_management/lighting_power_management/power_optimizing_power_designs/index1.html

Yes 650 is a current model, but it came out in early 07? The 750 on the other hand (The model I have) came out June 08. ....

You are still confused.

The Series 6 Bulb DLP (72A650, et al) were announced on Jan 7, 2008 (this year). They starting shipping in April. The model line is less than 6 months old.

You are still confused.

The Series 6 Bulb DLP (72A650, et al) were announced on Jan 7, 2008 (this year). They starting shipping in April. The model line is less than 6 months old.

Maybe in a 72", but I am talking about 56", 61" and 67" sets. The 650 series in those sizes came out in 07 sometime. As I said, a client of mine bought a series 6 56" last year in June-July time frame and paid $2000.00 for the 56", or slightly higher.

Nope...

Re: Series 6 Bulb DLP (A650) Samsungs... See post #1.

Don't know what was purchased back in '07 but it was not one of the units included in the subject of this thread.

I had the same TV. I intially purchased a series 6 56" that had an assembled date of June 07 on it. I remember comparing it to the series 5 that CC was selling for much less that had an 06 date on it. I remember also having a conversation with the salesmen back in July 08 about him saying Samsung just came out with series 7, but only available in 61 and 67" and possibly later this year 56". Look on the rear of the set there are stickers back there that display the date TV was assembled. Unless Samsung made some series 6 going into 08, which is very possible, because the series 7 wasn't released until June of 08 sometime, maybe even in May. They could of very well made the series 6 into 08 and perhaps the inventory at CC's was all 07's models.

I also remember telling the salesmen before purchasing the 56" that this TV is over a year old and asked if it was the current up tp date model. This was before I did an extensive research on Samsung DLP's.

Deeper and deeper.... :rolleyes:

nuff said...;)

Okay so I'm back again......I'll run down with my problem I am still having although I am on my second set and had a repair guy change out the sound board.

Bought my 61" series 7 samsung (led) at costco
got a decent price $1700 with stand +tax

Got it home, hooked it up and noticed that every 5-7 min. the sound was cutting out.
this happened when I conected up with the rca (red white yellow cables) and also component (with xbox 360)
It didn't do it with HDMI or cable straight into the tv.

So I took this set back and got another one.....same problem

So I phoned Samsung, they had a guy come out and replace the sound board (this board is an upgrade)....
I am getting the usual 5-7 min. sound cut outs but not as noticeable.

I phone the tech guy and he said that it is something in my house that is making it do that.

So I unplugged everything, plugged the tv into a diff. out let and just have my sat. plugged in and on...still getting the samething. like I said its not as noticable but its there.

If someone has this set can they listen very carfully (maybe to a soft misic channel) and see if the sound skips.

or does anyone have any suggestions....before I return this set too...(I do want to keep it)


thanks!!!

Already posted in the 61a750 thread but my 67" is doing just like Samhung's...the audio skips every 3 minutes.

It seems most here aren't having this problem or don't notice(it is very quick when it happens) but a $2k+ set in 2008 shouldn't be having a problem processing the most basic of audio signals(rca stereo input) and simply connecting it to a surround system is not an acceptable solution imo.;)

I've noticed on amazon there are a few people having a similar audio skip issue with some other types of Samsung sets including flat panels as well. I'm guessing Samsung uses similar audio hardware/software on multiple models and thus any problems will cross model lines.

I don't buy the interference diagnosis...it's too common and happens to regularly to be random interference. Imo it seems to be a board and/or software processing flaw and until Sammy does a design change...they can have service techs throw soundboards at it till the cows come home and I don't think it really help.

I leaning toward returning the set and going with a different brand...problem is there's nothing else out right now that's comparable(ie big screen without needing a bulb).:(

I don't buy the interference diagnosis...it's too common and happens to regularly to be random interference. Imo it seems to be a board and/or software processing flaw and until Sammy does a design change...they can have service techs throw soundboards at it till the cows come home and I don't think it really help.

I leaning toward returning the set and going with a different brand...problem is there's nothing else out right now that's comparable(ie big screen without needing a bulb).:(



I have posted here after posting what I have found out from Samsung.
They have said that they are going to get thier programmers to fix this problem. They do know about it and they are going to fix it (according to Samsung) I was told that it could take up to a year.

I like the tv, so I think I'm going to stick it out.....and hopefully they will fix it.

Is it me or Samsung stop making the lamp model under 72" ?

I just look at there USA web site and only the 7 series LED and the 6 series 72" bulb was on display.

Mine still work HLR-5064 but I keep my eyes open for the LED model

Just a quick hello. My 61" 750 arrived last night and I'm pretty impressed! I've read through the various threads here and thanks for all the great info. Can't remember if I read it and if I did I forgot! How do I check the software version that I have? Thanks!

I have an Air Purifier machine on the ground about 2 feet to the side of my A650 set (which rests on a 22" high stand). Is this okay or might the air purifier machine do harm to the DLP TV?

Light and heat....
I've read some neg responses to the light leak out the left rear of these TVs (A650 series)...shouldn't be a problem in my set up as I've painted the back wall chocolate color...

But I've also read some negs about the heat in that corner of the rear (people worried that it could be a negative impact on the TV's performance/part failure) and was wondering...

Has anyone put a small tabletop/dashboard fan back there to reduce the heat...?

This is my 3rd Samsung A650 DLP set. I had to take the first 2 back due to bad geometry and bowing issues. While this set still has bowing issues, ity doesn't seem to be that bad (as far as I can tell).

I pulled up the grid pattern from the system menu and took these pictures. Can someone take a look at them and tell me if it's 'acceptable' or if the bowing is still bad.

Thanks.

I'm new to this...getting my 50A650 tomorrow...so forgive me L4D, but is this grid in the service menu easily accessable?...
How do I get it up on the screen for me and the delivery guys to check out tomorow?...edit...found it in the FAQ thread...

...the pic is akilter, so I can't say with 100% certainty, but to me L4D's screen looks great...a straight-on shot would be nice, but I'd be happy with what I see...

One thing I'd like to confirm are definitions of distortion/bending of straight lines:
bowing: bending downwards from the top at the center of horizontal lines (~smiley smile) and I'd guess downwards at the center of the bottom grid too? (If it bent UPwards, would that be vertical pincushioning...see definition below)

pincushioning: bending inwards towards the center from the SIDES of vertical lines (~hour glass shape) typically/mostly at the perimeter...

I don't think anyone's used the term BARREL distortion (opposite of pincushion), the love handle lines bending OUTwards from the sides, and bending OUTwards from the center (again, mostly/typically at the perimeter) at the top and bottom, but I thought I'd ask...

Thanks for your help...
Dday -28 hours...but who's counting :D ...?

Congratulations Grizz....I love mine. I seem to remember you go into the menu, scroll down to software update and hit the info button. I think it shows you the version you r running. My guess is 1006.1 There might be a better way but I don't remember. I know you can get into the service menu and see it very easy.

Thanks for the info Golferdude its appreciated! I'm running 1006.1 and really loving the IQ. Now to pick a BR player! Thanks again. :)

I'm thinking really hard about getting this.. I just saw amazon has it on their site for $1599.98 with free shipping! It ships from by Vanns though so the 24 months free interest on your amazon card might not work. But this is the BEST price I've seen for a new system.

I have a 65" Hitatchi 65s500 that is running great, so it's hard to justify such an expense.

This is my 3rd Samsung A650 DLP set. I had to take the first 2 back due to bad geometry and bowing issues. While this set still has bowing issues, ity doesn't seem to be that bad (as far as I can tell).

I pulled up the grid pattern from the system menu and took these pictures. Can someone take a look at them and tell me if it's 'acceptable' or if the bowing is still bad.

Thanks.

Anyone please?

Anyone please?


Are the lines level, do you see any bowing, is there much tilt? If it's acceptable to you then it's fine.

left4dead, from looking at your pics, I don't see anything that would be noticeable in normal use.

left4dead, from looking at your pics, I don't see anything that would be noticeable in normal use.

Thanks for your reply. When watching NFL games with the score bar at the top, I do notice slight bowing (mostly on the upper left side)....but from everything I've read here and going through my 3rd A650 Samsung in the past couple of months, this is to be expected I guess.

Hopefully they will improve on this with their 2009 DLP models.

I'm deciding between http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-HL61A750-61-Inch-1080p-Powered/dp/B001415FIG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=electronics&qid=1222200174&sr=1-1 or a 56" of the same model.


Any ideas on how the Picture Quality would be for Blu-Ray and games(Xbox 360, PS3) VS. a A650 120hz Sammy 52" 1080p LCD?

I'm deciding between http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-HL61A750-61-Inch-1080p-Powered/dp/B001415FIG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=electronics&qid=1222200174&sr=1-1 or a 56" of the same model.


Any ideas on how the Picture Quality would be for Blu-Ray and games(Xbox 360, PS3) VS. a A650 120hz Sammy 52" 1080p LCD?

There is no 56" version. the LED DLP sets only come in 61" and 67" sizes. Any current model 56" DLP set from samsung is lamp based.

Ok, alright. Is there any difference in Picture Quality between LED, and Lamp?

I'm thinking really hard about getting this.. I just saw amazon has it on their site for $1599.98 with free shipping! It ships from by Vanns though so the 24 months free interest on your amazon card might not work. But this is the BEST price I've seen for a new system.

I have a 65" Hitatchi 65s500 that is running great, so it's hard to justify such an expense.

funny thing is on Monday morning amazon had it @ 1450.00 changed it to 1629.00 later that day and now for 16 through vann's. you really have to watch these online vendors. get this last week or the week before crutchfield was giving a 400.00 bello stand away free w/ purchase. lasted maybe 2 days and spoof it was gone.:mad:

funny thing is on Monday morning amazon had it @ 1450.00 changed it to 1629.00 later that day and now for 16 through vann's. you really have to watch these online vendors. get this last week or the week before crutchfield was giving a 400.00 bello stand away free w/ purchase. lasted maybe 2 days and spoof it was gone.:mad:

I guess I really lucked out, b/c I took the plunge on the 67'' with Crutchfield when they offered free stand and white glove delivery. I paid a higher base price, but thought it was justified with the extras.

Ok, alright. Is there any difference in Picture Quality between LED, and Lamp?

As someone who has seen them both in a home environment, I think they look pretty much the same, with the lamp model having a slightly larger viewing angle. Interestingly though, my dad's 72" lamp model has WAY more silk screen effect than my 67" LED. Can someone who knows say whether that is due to the size or what?

Did you pull up the grid pattern in the service menu as I described earlier in the thread? Its then easy to see the geometry issues and focus/convergence issues, if you have them. Like I said though, its a crap shoot. You may have been lucky and gotten one without issues. There's not enough data to know if I'm in the (hypothetical) 10% with the problem or the (hypothetical) 90% with the problem.

If you don't use the test pattern (or some other grid/line test pattern), some people wouldn't know one way or the other.

Matt,

Do you know if seeing about a pixel worth of red above whats supposed to be a white line and a pixel worth of blue below it is normal? If not, can the service menu be used to tweak it? I have a samsung referred tech coming out since it's new but I'm wondering if this is something that fixable or just the nature of the beast?

Historically with my old RP tv's there were convergence adjustments, but this has no such thing in the regular menus.

Then the PS3 is outputting 1080P60.
For 1080P60 the Samsung shows 1080. This is for my LED DLP and my LCD Samsung.
For 1080i it shows 1080i
For 1080P24 it shows 1080P24(or something like that. I'm not in front of it right now but 1080 will be on the info screen and 24 is also on the info screen too)


Could you please post a picture with your LED DLP displaying 1080P. If so what is your firmware version?

Bump - can you post pic(s) please, aaronwt? I'd like the definitive answer to this. Thanks!

New owner of 61A750, 5 days now, and have these annoying blue colored lines contours and speckles that frequently appear. Looking for ideas on what these are and how to make go away. Images attached.
:confused:

did you try replacing and/or reseating the HDMI cable?

Bump - can you post pic(s) please, aaronwt? I'd like the definitive answer to this. Thanks!
I'll have to do it sometime in the next couple of days. But it shows
1920x1080@60Hz for 1080P60
and
1920x1080@24Hz
for 1080P24 inputs.

When pressing the info button on the remote, that is what shows up in the upper left corner of the screen.

Hello,

I am going crazy trying to figure out which model to purchase. My wife is keeping my TV choice to 56 inches (although I could probably talk her into 61 inches).

Therefore, here are my options:

HL-T5687S - one year old LED technology with reported issues of hot spots.
HL56A650 - Newest (series 6) bulb based.

OR

Do I try and convince the wife to get the HL61A750 - newest (series 7) LED based.

And for those that can help me,
Is there truly a big difference between 56 and 61 inch TV size when placed in a room? Will the 5 inch difference stand out as too big OR will it look very similiar?

Thanks for your help,

Lance :)

Hello,

I am going crazy trying to figure out which model to purchase. My wife is keeping my TV choice to 56 inches (although I could probably talk her into 61 inches).

Therefore, here are my options:

HL-T5687S - one year old LED technology with reported issues of hot spots.
HL56A650 - Newest (series 6) bulb based.

OR

Do I try and convince the wife to get the HL61A750 - newest (series 7) LED based.

And for those that can help me,
Is there truly a big difference between 56 and 61 inch TV size when placed in a room? Will the 5 inch difference stand out as too big OR will it look very similiar?

Thanks for your help,

Lance :)

Go for the 61" 750 series LED set.

The Tv might seem large at first, but after a couple of weeks it will seem much smaller and if you go with the 56", you'll probably wish you had the larger size.
Your best bet for picture quality is the current 61" LED set.

If I were to choose between the hl56a650 (buld 2008 model) or the
hl-t5687s (2007 LED model), which way would you go?

Lance

(cross posted from owners thread)

Anyone here got a pronto (or other) remote that can test these Hex codes for directly selecting picture mode? I got these from the Samsung HLT section at remote central.

If these work for our sets, we could email Logitech and get them added to the harmony database so we could directly select picture modes.

http://www.remotecentral.com/cgi-bin...=hltserieshdtv


These codes are in standard Pronto hex format.
Picture mode - Dynamic

0000 006C 0022 0000 00AD 00AD 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0041 0015 0015 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0015 0015 0041 0015 0015 0015 0041 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0041 0015 0015 0015 0728
Picture mode - Movie

0000 006C 0022 0000 00AD 00AD 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0015 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0041 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0728
Picture mode - Standard

0000 006C 0022 0000 00AD 00AD 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0015 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0041 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0728

did you try replacing and/or reseating the HDMI cable?
Did not check HMDMI cable as I see the same blue colored artifacts when using the antennae input and viewing local HD OTA channels.

Does anyone here know WHEN Samsung brings out their models for next year?
I have really been excited about their 2 NEW LED models and their reviews, but have read rumors that they are the "end of the LED line" so to speak. When I went to maybe purchase a 61" model at BB, the salesman said that their computer info tells him they will not be stocked "at the store" BUT he can order me one. I have read similar type reports in other threads.
I also read some where that Samsung and others are getting into using Lasers, like Mitsu, so I am wondering how long it might be before Samsung gives some good price competition to Mitsu for Laser HDTVs? I would like to jump on the LED bandwagon and get the 61A750 but would sure be kicking me booty IF shortly Samsung announces that their NEXT DLPs will be Laser driven???
What are you're thoughts? Anybody know more about Sammy and Laser HDTV?

Michael:confused:

Hello,

I am in the midst of trying to figure out which Samsung to purchase. My wife has limited me to the 56 inch size (althought I might be able to persuade otherwise).

I have been looking at the 2007 LED model hl-t5687s and the 2008 new bulb model hl56a650. As a brain tease, I have also gandered at the hl61a750 (2008 LED).

My first question: If considering the 2007 LED versus 2008 Bulb, which will be a better choice? I heard that the 2007 LED had issues with hot spots showing in the middle of the screen.

Second question: If given the option of going 61 inches, is the 2008 LED any better than the 2007 LED? Does the difference of 61 versus 56 inches show greatly (or is it a minimal difference size wise)?

Last, my seating is approx 8 feet away from the TV. I wanted to mention this in case its important in the proper size selection.

Thanks,

Lance

Does anyone here know WHEN Samsung brings out their models for next year?Typically (for the last 5 years, at least), the new models are announced during CES in January of the model year (i.e., January 2009 should be the next announcement). New models are announced for delivery starting anywhere from Mar to Jul/Aug of the model year and they are usually late. FWIW.

Hello,

I found a fantastic deal on the LN52a550 LCD TV. It does not have true 120 hertz processing but does except 120 hertz input.

If you were me, would you buy the LN52A550 (LCD) or the hl56a650 (DLP) OR hl61a750 (DLP)?

Would you exchange size for picture quality? Is the picture quality on the LN52A550 superior to the DLP models?

Thanks in advance for everybody's help.

Lance

The positives first…

I’m delighted to confirm that HD image quality is excellent…and digi-nonHD IQ is also very good…some stations better than others, IQ depending on the signal and source material, of course…the 50” 9x16 screen gives 4x3 signals a 42” unstretched diagonal….a decent size at my 9’ viewing distance, which is good because the stretch option on this model is useless…[see note below]

IQ depends a lot on using all the available adjustments, and that means more than just the standard brightness, contrast, color (saturation), and hue….[see note in additional comments, below]. I am a photographer with experience with all the available adjustments (incl. white balance, skin tone adjustments, gamut) and think that so many options might overwhelm TV viewers with no photo printing experience….

My kick-back seating position on a recliner looking upward with my eyes set a 1/4th the way up from the bottom does not adversely affect IQ…maybe a bit measurably darker at the top but not really noticeably…even lying down on my couch with eyes below the bottom, image overall brightness is just fine…

The negs…

The available image adjustments are extensive…but the manual doesn’t explain the adjustments…it’d be nice to know, for example, that increasing the gamma increases brightness of midrange tones (while the brightness control affects the entire range, and contrast only the extremes)

Screen geometry out of the box is good, if not perfect.
There is minor bowing, tilt, and pincushion…but none that can’t/won’t be overlooked…

Using the p.size zoom-move setting and pushing the line under the news information crawl to the top of the frame, bowing is less than the line’s width (center vs edge), acceptable…

There is a slight counterclockwise tilt of the entire frame resulting in a loss of a couple of inches of that info crawl line at the top far right and about the same loss at the bottom of far right vertical line of the grid; nothing I’ll worry about, it’s no big deal to me…

Cable digi-nonHD feed can be adjusted to a very high IQ in the 4/3 frame.

The PICTURE SIZE ADUSTMENT LACKS A VERTICAL STRETCH MODE TO COMPLEMENT THE HORIZONTAL STRETCH, rendering the zoom useless since YOU CAN’T MAINTAIN THE NATIVE ASPECT RATIO...too bad...[edit...ZOOM1 DOES maintain the 4/3 aspect ratio...I didn't notice it the first times I tried it...sorry 'bout that]

This 50” model doesn’t seem to have the option to shut off the Samsung lOgO glOw on the frame....[edit...found the option in the menu under external settings...]

I can’t seem to find any IQ adjustment for the USB input…
Does anyone know if there’s a way to adjust IQ (brightness/contast, etc.) for displayed JPEGS on the USB input…???

Upconverted DVDs look great... IQ of VHS tapes enlarged to this size is pretty good and DVDs made from my pc recordings (HD recorded in SD mode) are excellent...

Call me a Sammi fan...

follow-up...
Plugged in my laptop to the VGA input...very excellent image...worthy of a wow actually...much better images than I got from the USB input...

I found a fantastic deal on the LN52a550 LCD TV. It does not have true 120 hertz processing but does except 120 hertz input.

If you were me, would you buy the LN52A550 (LCD) or the hl56a650 (DLP) OR hl61a750 (DLP)?

Would you exchange size for picture quality? Is the picture quality on the LN52A550 superior to the DLP models?
This is a DLP thread, so it's pretty unlikely that you're going to have many people recommending the LCD option over the DLP options. The general consensus is that the 750 series DLP's are preferable to the 650 series DLP's because there's no bulb to replace a few years down the road. On the DLP options, the larger screen isn't going to affect picture quality significantly - the maximum brightness will be slightly less on the larger screen, but the difference will be insignificant in most home environments as they can both get bright enough to be uncomfortably bright.

The bottom line is to purchase the TV that you feel is best for YOU. None of us can tell you which option that will be.

I found Amazon selling the HL61A750 this morning for $1397.53, so I brought my reciept back to CC and get a $252.00 plus change price match and they refused to do it. They said they don't consider Amazon a competitor, however when I furst bought the HL61A750 they priced matched Amazon's $1649.00 current price on 08-11-08. Anyway I told them I was not happy about this and they said that the only reason they price matched Amazon for me was for a one time deal, which they never told me when they intially priced matched amazon. Anyway I wasn't about to leave unless they at least met me part of the way, which eventialy they did by giving me the DLP at cost. (Thats the lowest they were able to go). So I got $74.90 taken off my bill. So that brought my HL61A750 down to $1589.00 plus change.

I found Amazon selling the HL61A750 this morning for $1397.53, so I brought my reciept back to CC and get a $252.00 plus change price match and they refused to do it. They said they don't consider Amazon a competitor, however when I furst bought the HL61A750 they priced matched Amazon's $1649.00 current price on 08-11-08. Anyway I told them I was not happy about this and they said that the only reason they price matched Amazon for me was for a one time deal, which they never told me when they intially priced matched amazon. Anyway I wasn't about to leave unless they at least met me part of the way, which eventialy they did by giving me the DLP at cost. (Thats the lowest they were able to go). So I got $74.90 taken off my bill. So that brought my HL61A750 down to $1589.00 plus change.

You left off some very important points:

1) The actual vendor is Electronics Expo, not Amazon itself

2) The actual price is: $1,625.95 including $229.00 for shipping, which is included for free by other vendors

Items: $1,396.95
Shipping & Handling: $229.00

Total Before Tax: $1,625.95

For reference, the current price (which seems to fluctuate daily) through Amazon itself is $1,659.98.

-LQ

Hello,

I found a fantastic deal on the LN52a550 LCD TV. It does not have true 120 hertz processing but does except 120 hertz input.

If you were me, would you buy the LN52A550 (LCD) or the hl56a650 (DLP) OR hl61a750 (DLP)?

Would you exchange size for picture quality? Is the picture quality on the LN52A550 superior to the DLP models?

Thanks in advance for everybody's help.

Lance


No...

You left off some very important points:

1) The actual vendor is Electronics Expo, not Amazon itself

2) The actual price is: $1,625.95 including $229.00 for shipping, which is included for free by other vendors

Items: $1,396.95
Shipping & Handling: $229.00

Total Before Tax: $1,625.95

For reference, the current price (which seems to fluctuate daily) through Amazon itself is $1,659.98.

-LQ

(Important Message
Please note that the price of Samsung HL61A750 61-Inch 1080p LED Powered DLP HDTV has decreased from $1,397.73 to $1,396.95 since you placed it in your Shopping Cart. Items in your cart will always reflect the most recent price displayed on their product detail pages. )

The price has changed since yesterday and same as the vendor. This was exclusively from Amazon yesterday, that is why I saved the page and brought my note book to CC with page still on it.

It is funny how CC doesn't have a clean cut price match policy. Fry's had the 61A750 on sale for $1499 and the first time I went into CC they said no. The next time I went in they said they would match the price but not the 10% difference. So I ended up getting it for the $1499 plus tax. They did throw in 3 BR movies, older ones, but none the less, BR movies.

I never could get CC's website people to give me a straight answer on the price matching policy. Guess it is just how the people are feeling that day.

where is this thread?

It wasn't listed on the RPU page...funny...it reappeared after I made this post...

Hello,

I am in the midst of trying to figure out which Samsung to purchase. My wife has limited me to the 56 inch size (althought I might be able to persuade otherwise).

I have been looking at the 2007 LED model hl-t5687s and the 2008 new bulb model hl56a650. As a brain tease, I have also gandered at the hl61a750 (2008 LED).

My first question: If considering the 2007 LED versus 2008 Bulb, which will be a better choice? I heard that the 2007 LED had issues with hot spots showing in the middle of the screen.

Second question: If given the option of going 61 inches, is the 2008 LED any better than the 2007 LED? Does the difference of 61 versus 56 inches show greatly (or is it a minimal difference size wise)?

Last, my seating is approx 8 feet away from the TV. I wanted to mention this in case its important in the proper size selection.

Thanks,

Lance

I ran into a similar desision making process that you are going through. I decided on the 61 A750 and am very happy I finally made this choice. If I had to do it all over I would have made the same decision.

Here is more comparison information:

http://hdguru.com/will-you-see-all-the-hdtv-resolution-you-expected-125-2008-model-test-results-hd-guru-exclusive/287/

Am I the only one who noticed Vanns is selling the HL61A750 for $1599 shipped??? :confused:

I was thinking of going with them, though I think I should wait for the prices to drop below $1500 beforehand.

My new 61-inch is going to be delivered on Monday. Got a great deal from OneCall: $1699 + free universal remote (a very nice one too) + free shipping.

I understand this set supports discrete codes for on/off and input selects, as opposed to toggling via the remote. Does anyone know if the included remote has any secret key combinations to send these discrete remote control codes, which I then can learn on my universal remote? (These are essential for use with macros which I heavily use to make our complex AV-system usable by my non-techical wife.) Some AV products have this feature of sending discrete codes via secret keys. Also, does anyone know if there are discrete codes to select the picture zoom settings, which also may be important for watching non-HD sources.

If there is nothing, it looks like I will have to spend a couple hours with JP1 to get the codes programmed into my universal remote.

I have the same problem. Is there any way to generate a discrete on and discrete off with the remote? If not, is there a Pronto Pro TSU6000 file somewhere that I can program in to send the code? I need to program a macro into a Niles Intellipad but I need to be able to transmit it to the pad with something.

Thanks

You could try the codes given here:
http://www.remotecentral.com/cgi-bin/files/rcfiles.cgi?area=professional&db=discrete&br=samsung

You could try the codes given here:
http://www.remotecentral.com/cgi-bin/files/rcfiles.cgi?area=professional&db=discrete&br=samsung

I ended up finding it on remotecentral. I don't remember the exact file, but I sorted Samsung HDTV by the date the file was posted. I used one of the later files, downloaded to pronto, and used that to program my niles intellipad, so yes indeed, discrete codes do exist for these LED DLP's.

Ok, alright. Is there any difference in Picture Quality between LED, and Lamp?Not that I have noticed recently. The Samsung 61A750 and 67A750 sure smoke the Mitsubishi LaserVue TV on value and similar performance, local Anderson's was displaying the 65" LaserVue for only $6999! :eek: I could buy three 67A750's for that price easily.

Go for the 61" 750 series LED set.

The Tv might seem large at first, but after a couple of weeks it will seem much smaller and if you go with the 56", you'll probably wish you had the larger size.
Your best bet for picture quality is the current 61" LED set.


I 2nd this! :) Also the new Call of duty World at War beta ( for the gamers)looks amazing on this tv.

Sure LCD's are brighter, espeically in well lit stores, but once you get the DLP home and into a rear viewing enviroment it looks absolutely spectacular.

About that statement: How would you define the best "rear viewing environment" for a DLP? Does the optimal, best viewing environment for an LCD or Plasma differ from that of a DLP? I'm just now learning about DLP's and I'm thinking about buying the Samsung.

Ok So I have finnally decided on the 61A650, now is VANNS reliable, they are like 200 dollars cheeper than everywhere else I have found, with free shipping and no tax? Or should I just go down the street and pay the 1300 plus tax???

Ok So I have finnally decided on the 61A650, now is VANNS reliable, they are like 200 dollars cheeper than everywhere else

Vanns' return policy is consumer unfriendly.

You have 15 days to try it out. Once those 15 days come to pass, you bought the TV. Adorama's return policy is a joke. You have 7 days to return it. Too bad Costco doesn't sell the A750.

Thanks salley

is a 33" H stand too tall for this TV? I was going to get a nice entertainment center thats 61" wide and the TV would stand from a Height of 33". The viewing distance is from 3 feet to 15 feet and the couches are 24"H so eye level would be 47" and up? I need to know before I buy the stand as its on sale and sale ends today of all days.

Ok So I have finnally decided on the 61A650, now is VANNS reliable, they are like 200 dollars cheeper than everywhere else I have found, with free shipping and no tax? Or should I just go down the street and pay the 1300 plus tax???

I have my mind set on buying the A750. The holidays are coming up fast, and I'm gonna give some thought to waiting until the best shopping day of the year to buy it: on Black Friday. I have no idea if the A750 will be marked down drastically in price. I can only hope that it is. I'd like to save hundreds of dollars on it. If it is on sale Black Friday style with a crazy good discount price, then a person should be able to snag one for right around $1200 or so. Does that sound crazy? It shouldn't if you know what Black Friday's all about. If I wait the 40 plus days and find that it isn't on sale come November 28, 2008, no biggie, I'm in no hurry for a new TV. To me, it's worth the wait to see if I can get it for hundreds of dollars off the regular price.

About 10 days ago I bought a 42 inch Vizio from Costco. It's too small for my studio apartment. Costco has their killer 90 day return policy so I've got plenty of wiggle room to wiggle around in...

I got my 50A650 bulb version as an authorized replacement in mid-Sept
I had 30 days to use the authorization and with 60 days to price-match, and thought I'd keep an eye on BB for BF deals :D...but I couldn't depend on BB to still have a Sammy in my $1050 limit...the only other brand they had for that price was Insignia (and the 50"er/price point is my limit) so I went for the Sammy (the last one they had) to enjoy it for the next 3 months even if I can't take advantage of BF deals...
...besides, I gotta give BB its due for sticking to the 4yr exchange plan and giving/delivering the Sammy to me for free...(tho I did get the $200 EW...in case I do need a replacement bulb...)...

I'll keep an eye on BB for BF deals :D

What does BB and BF mean?

What does BB and BF mean?

Best Buy and Black Friday

I am thinking of buying an inexpensive Samsung Home theatre system for my 67" A750. Can anyone tell me if my RCA Direct TV remote control will be able to control the satellite box, my tv and the home theatre? Right now it easily controls the direct tv box and A750 tv, I don't want to have separate controls to control the theatre box with volume, etc. Also I want to use it 99% for TV viewing, not games or dvds. Thanks.