Wish I could tell you IF your present remote would do the trick for you.....BUT......I do KNOW that one of the Logitech Harmony Remotes will take care of those components and more. I use mine with TV, Cable Box, A/V Receiver, and DVD Player all programmed into it [and have easily changed a couple of those units since I have had it]. They are REALLY nice.

Joe! You're a pretty famous plumber! :D

I just downloaded the manual for the 61" set, and I see it says there will be problems if your cable box is NOT HDMI 1.3 - does anybody know if Comcast HD/DVR Motorola boxes are 1.3??? I am afraid to call them, they probably wont know and probably will just tell me yes to get rid of me.

Is anyone not using HDMI from the cable box due to this, and if so, how is the picture and how have you hooked up? I know you can still use HDMI directly from your bluray player.

I am really interested in the Comcast question though, appreciate any answers.

I just downloaded the manual for the 61" set, and I see it says there will be problems if your cable box is NOT HDMI 1.3 - does anybody know if Comcast HD/DVR Motorola boxes are 1.3??? I am afraid to call them, they probably wont know and probably will just tell me yes to get rid of me.

Is anyone not using HDMI from the cable box due to this, and if so, how is the picture and how have you hooked up? I know you can still use HDMI directly from your bluray player.

I am really interested in the Comcast question though, appreciate any answers.

I really don't think they are 1.3

I just downloaded the manual for the 61" set, and I see it says there will be problems if your cable box is NOT HDMI 1.3 - does anybody know if Comcast HD/DVR Motorola boxes are 1.3??? I am afraid to call them, they probably wont know and probably will just tell me yes to get rid of me.

Is anyone not using HDMI from the cable box due to this, and if so, how is the picture and how have you hooked up? I know you can still use HDMI directly from your bluray player.

I am really interested in the Comcast question though, appreciate any answers.

I just set up my 61a750 last night and went HDMI from my Comcast 6412 HD/DVR and I don't see any problems (other than it searches for a signal for a few seconds, but isn't that normal?). I've had the box for at least 2 years now, so I would doubt that it's 1.3. I've looked at the manual, but did not notice this. Does it say what kind of problems?

I just downloaded the manual for the 61" set, and I see it says there will be problems if your cable box is NOT HDMI 1.3 - does anybody know if Comcast HD/DVR Motorola boxes are 1.3??? I am afraid to call them, they probably wont know and probably will just tell me yes to get rid of me.

Is anyone not using HDMI from the cable box due to this, and if so, how is the picture and how have you hooked up? I know you can still use HDMI directly from your bluray player.

I am really interested in the Comcast question though, appreciate any answers.
Which Comcast receiver do you have? The newer ones have 1.3. I have a DCH 6416 and so do some of the others.

To answer your questions, i cant tell what model mine is, i cant see it from the front, will have to move some stuff to get at the back. Of course its not on the paperwork! The paperwork just says DVR/HDTV. I will try to get to the back and look at it.

As to the manual, i dont have it in front of me, but i believe it said the picture and/or sound could cut out if you dont have a 1.3 HDMI DVR. Also, when i did the download (from Crutchfield), it also downloaded a quick setup guide, it might have said this in the quick setup guide, but i am not sure, it could have been near the front of the regular manual. Anyway, it did say it. Maybe its just a possibility and Samsung is covering their butt.

Thanks for the help guys. I am gonna try to call Comcast when i get a chance and see if i get an answer. If not, i guess i will just hook up and see what happens when i get the set, I have the room almost ready for painting, should be done with everything within 2 weeks and then i buy the 61" set.

Cant wait!

To answer your questions, i cant tell what model mine is, i cant see it from the front, will have to move some stuff to get at the back. Of course its not on the paperwork! The paperwork just says DVR/HDTV. I will try to get to the back and look at it.

As to the manual, i dont have it in front of me, but i believe it said the picture and/or sound could cut out if you dont have a 1.3 HDMI DVR.

Thanks for the help guys. I am gonna try to call Comcast when i get a chance and see if i get an answer. If not, i guess i will just hook up and see what happens when i get the set, I have the room almost ready for painting, should be done with everything within 2 weeks and then i buy the 61" set.

Cant wait!Ok...which one of these does it look like?

http://www.motorola.com/staticfiles/Business/Products/TV%20Video%20Distribution/Set-tops/QAM%20Set-tops/Digital-Analog%20QAM%20Set-tops/DCT6400/_Images/Static%20Files/B2B_Product_DCT6400_MD_US-EN.jpg
or

http://www.motorola.com/staticfiles/Business/Products/TV%20Video%20Distribution/Customer%20Premises%20Equipment/Digital-Analog%20QAM%20Set-tops/DCH6416/_Images/Static%20Files/B2B_Product_DCH6416_MD_US-EN.jpg
or neither?

looks exactly as the top one.

bet thats the older one. LOL

looks exactly as the top one.

bet thats the older one. LOL

They are both current models and 1.3. Also, I have had both and I have the 750. They both work wonderfully with this TV. :)

They are both current models and 1.3. Also, I have had both and I have the 750. They both work wonderfully with this TV. :)


Thanks bud, you made my day!:)

Appreciate the effort you made to post pictures, enjoy your set!

Thanks bud, you made my day!:)

Appreciate the effort you made to post pictures, enjoy your set!
You're welcome. Not a problem at all.

Has anyone got a definitive answer on how these sets do 24 fps: is it 5:5 output at 120 Hz or 3:2 displayed as 60 Hz? Last year's HLTs almost certainly do 3:2 at 60 Hz and I *think* 120 Hz ouput is used only in 3D mode. I suspect its the same for the 2008s. The 120 Hz is a little misleading in that it is the wobulation frequency, not the display refresh frequency. Certainly not a deal breaker, I have had the 2007 hl-t5687 for a year and a half and love it. I just like to know how things work.

I ended up finding it on remotecentral. I don't remember the exact file, but I sorted Samsung HDTV by the date the file was posted. I used one of the later files, downloaded to pronto, and used that to program my niles intellipad, so yes indeed, discrete codes do exist for these LED DLP's.

What do the discrete codes do? Is this something I am going to want to program into my harmony when I get the TV on WED?

What do the discrete codes do? Is this something I am going to want to program into my harmony when I get the TV on WED?
I don't know how to describe it, but here is an example...

Let's say you want to change the picture mode from standard to movie. The Samsung remote does not have individual buttons for each mode. You have to go into a menu and change the mode yourself each time. With the discrete codes you can program a button on the harmony for each picture mode.

Basically, you have more control over the TV...it's just that the Samsung remote is limited.

Another example is that the Samsung remote does not have individual buttons for each input. The commands are there however and you can use them with your Harmony.

What do the discrete codes do? Is this something I am going to want to program into my harmony when I get the TV on WED?

Discrete codes are different commands for operations like turning the TV on or off or selecting inputs directly, like HDMI1 or HDMI2 instead of having to pick from a menu or toggle through the inputs. Many TVs have discrete inputs even though you may not be able to select them with the TV's remote.

Harmony already has the discrete codes for this TV in its database, so you will not have to add them. Just add the TV to your Device list and set up your activity.

Thanks billy, Found out today the TV will be here tommorow! WOOT WOOT, I'm so flippin excited. Probally be back on here asking Q's about it lol. and the Haromony.

Has anyone hooked up their computer thru HDMI on their A750 to get 120hz refresh rate? Is the option there if your video card can handle it? Thanks. I may have to upgrade.

Has anyone hooked up their computer thru HDMI on their A750 to get 120hz refresh rate? Is the option there if your video card can handle it? Thanks. I may have to upgrade.

I have this set and use it as my computer monitor. The 120hz refresh rate is done internally to the set, sort of like up conversion, I guess. The max refresh rate you can set the A750 via the PC is 60hz at 1920x1080, the lowest is 24hz.

Beyond that, it is an excellent TV for a PC monitor. I use it for games, HD video content. Of course, you have to have a beefy PC to play games at 1920x1080. :D

Thanks billy, Found out today the TV will be here tommorow! WOOT WOOT, I'm so flippin excited. Probally be back on here asking Q's about it lol. and the Haromony.

Hey. Mine will arrive tomorrow also!!! Between 12 and 4pm. 67 incher.

Discrete codes are different commands for operations like turning the TV on or off or selecting inputs directly, like HDMI1 or HDMI2 instead of having to pick from a menu or toggle through the inputs. Many TVs have discrete inputs even though you may not be able to select them with the TV's remote.

Harmony already has the discrete codes for this TV in its database, so you will not have to add them. Just add the TV to your Device list and set up your activity.

I could be wrong, but I could swear the Harmony database only had a non-discrete on/off button which is why I had to program the pronto to program the Harmony.

Now it works great. The big advantage with discrete power is you don't have to keep the programming in sync to figure out if the power is on or off. The unit can just send a power on command and not worry that if the power was already on, it would turn it off.

With my old TV and Pronto, I had to prompt the user to see if the power was on to avoid this issue. A real PITA

Just out of curiosity, have any of you more recent owners had any problems with the reflection on the top black bar during widescreen viewing?

I know this issue was a big concern upon the 750s release, but I haven't read too much about it in the last few months. I take it that it's either not present on the later shipments or it's just been something that people have accepted?

It's there, but at least on my set, I can't really notice it unless I'm staring at the black bar looking for it.

I could be wrong, but I could swear the Harmony database only had a non-discrete on/off button which is why I had to program the pronto to program the Harmony.

Now it works great. The big advantage with discrete power is you don't have to keep the programming in sync to figure out if the power is on or off. The unit can just send a power on command and not worry that if the power was already on, it would turn it off.

With my old TV and Pronto, I had to prompt the user to see if the power was on to avoid this issue. A real PITA
There are many newly found discrete commands which mike_pro found somewhere else. You can ask Logitech to add them to your profile and then use them with your Harmony.

Renaming that input to PC gives you some additional sizing options I believe.

what options are these?

so i renamed hdmi3/dvi to PC, and it gave me less options to use, only had widepc, widetv and 4:3, and alot of other options were grayed out that normally are not

Setting the HDMI Input Label to "PC" is the "switch" that tells the TV you are might be gaming with your PC.

The "switch" takes a number of the adjustment "circuits" out of the data path, so that you minimize lag. (Lag is the issue where you move the mouse, i.e. your rifle, to aim and shoot and the picture on the screen lags behind your mouse movement). Makes it very hard to play FPS games at a competitive level.

The more "logic" (circuits) you have in the data path the more "time delay".

When watching TV/movies it doesn't matter, as you don't care if the commercial starts 1/10 of a second after the station broadcast it. :)

The assumption is you do NOT really lose any picture control, as most PCs graphics adapters have many of the same adjustment parameters you can make from the PC side.

Setting the HDMI Input Label to "PC" is the "switch" that tells the TV you are might be gaming with your PC.

The "switch" takes a number of the adjustment "circuits" out of the data path, so that you minimize lag. (Lag is the issue where you move the mouse, i.e. your rifle, to aim and shoot and the picture on the screen lags behind your mouse movement). Makes it very hard to play FPS games at a competitive level.

The more "logic" (circuits) you have in the data path the more "time delay".

When watching TV/movies it doesn't matter, as you don't care if the commercial starts 1/10 of a second after the station broadcast it. :)

The assumption is you do NOT really lose any picture control, as most PCs graphics adapters have many of the same adjustment parameters you can make from the PC side.

thanks for the great explanation, so what about console gaming then? what if i have my ps3 or 360 in that port, do i want to rename it to PC? if i use the ps3 for blurays as well, i imagine i would then lose some customization settings

Setting the HDMI Input Label to "PC" is the "switch" that tells the TV you are might be gaming with your PC.

The "switch" takes a number of the adjustment "circuits" out of the data path, so that you minimize lag. (Lag is the issue where you move the mouse, i.e. your rifle, to aim and shoot and the picture on the screen lags behind your mouse movement). Makes it very hard to play FPS games at a competitive level.

The more "logic" (circuits) you have in the data path the more "time delay".

When watching TV/movies it doesn't matter, as you don't care if the commercial starts 1/10 of a second after the station broadcast it. :)

The assumption is you do NOT really lose any picture control, as most PCs graphics adapters have many of the same adjustment parameters you can make from the PC side.

It also allows adjustments for sizing and centering within the TV so that the entire PC desktop is visible.

ooops

I'd exchange my Wife before trading in the 61A750. That having been said, would anyone happen to have suggestions on A) How to operate and protect the HL61A7450 DLP in an enclosed, high humidity environment B) Improve signal reception at a very remote Cemetary / Mausoleum location? :o

I'd exchange my Wife before trading in the 61A750...
:D !!!

...That having been said, would anyone happen to have suggestions on A) How to operate and protect the HL61A7450 DLP in an enclosed, high humidity environment B) Improve signal reception at a very remote Cemetary / Mausoleum location? :o
I bet zombie movies on Halloween are pretty intense where you are! :eek:


Seriously though I hope someone does have answers to your questions.

thanks for the great explanation, so what about console gaming then? what if i have my ps3 or 360 in that port, do i want to rename it to PC? if i use the ps3 for blurays as well, i imagine i would then lose some customization settings

Good catch by Ron Lee, that I forgot to add it also adds some new adjustments.

For a gaming console, it is the same (gaming console is a computer). Causes a conundrum for playing DVD/BlueRays I guess. I don't console game, I'm a PC gamer.

Hi all! Just purchased the Onkyo HTS 9100 and am now about to purchase the 67A750.
Does anyone know if the omnimount cch1 will mount to this set? I went to BB, but they had the set so high I couldn't measure the back to triangulate where the legs would hit. I had originally planned to place the center channel under my home built stand measuring 17" high, but that isn't going to work now because of room arrangement. I then proceeded to build a tv stand, but that raises the set another 7" and would make eye level about 10 degrees up by my best estimation. WAF has gone down with that idea, so the next step is a dlp mount, but the only one I can find is this omnimount. Called them and they said "trial and error" is the only way to know. I pretty much purchase online, therefore I don't like the trial and error technique. Sorry for the long post. Thanks,
Nate

Pulled the trigger on the Samsung 61inch HL61A750 last week, & its scheduled for delivery tomorrow!! :D Can't wait to test out Grand Theft Auto 4, and some bluray movies.... :D

Got it from Amazon for a lil over $1400 shipped. Using a Logitech Z-5500 surround sound system.

Anyone have problems with using their optical sound connection as well as an HDMI cable for video?

Hi all! Just purchased the Onkyo HTS 9100 and am now about to purchase the 67A750.
Does anyone know if the omnimount cch1 will mount to this set? I went to BB, but they had the set so high I couldn't measure the back to triangulate where the legs would hit. I had originally planned to place the center channel under my home built stand measuring 17" high, but that isn't going to work now because of room arrangement. I then proceeded to build a tv stand, but that raises the set another 7" and would make eye level about 10 degrees up by my best estimation. WAF has gone down with that idea, so the next step is a dlp mount, but the only one I can find is this omnimount. Called them and they said "trial and error" is the only way to know. I pretty much purchase online, therefore I don't like the trial and error technique. Sorry for the long post. Thanks,
Nate

AMAZON sells them and from my experience they have a GOOD return policy - I had to return something that did not do the trick for me and NO questions asked....they credited my account.;)

Hi all! Just purchased the Onkyo HTS 9100 and am now about to purchase the 67A750.
Does anyone know if the omnimount cch1 will mount to this set? I went to BB, but they had the set so high I couldn't measure the back to triangulate where the legs would hit. I had originally planned to place the center channel under my home built stand measuring 17" high, but that isn't going to work now because of room arrangement. I then proceeded to build a tv stand, but that raises the set another 7" and would make eye level about 10 degrees up by my best estimation. WAF has gone down with that idea, so the next step is a dlp mount, but the only one I can find is this omnimount. Called them and they said "trial and error" is the only way to know. I pretty much purchase online, therefore I don't like the trial and error technique. Sorry for the long post. Thanks,
Nate


Omnimount will NOT work, for 2 reasons.

The back of the TV at the top of the TV slopes down at such and angle, the Omnimount legs are not long enough.

More importantly, you would distort the picture if you put any weight down on the TV bezel.

Hello guys,

Recently I purchased an HL56A650 from BB, and it seems really good except for one little problem that's been bugging me: The upper-right corner section of my screen seems to be slightly out of focus and blurry. This is usually only noticeable with text and finely detailed images. Is there a way to get this area just as crisp as the other 3 corners, or do I need to painstakingly lug the set back to the store and swap it out? :confused: Please help me!

Long time lurker, first time poster. Be gentle.

Ill be moving into a new apartment hopefully before X-Mas. Along with the new apartment I plan on buying a new tv and home theater. My living room is approximately 12x14 off the top of my head. I originally planned on going with a Panny TH50PZ85U but people kept telling me that I would regret not going bigger. Now Im pretty set on going with a Sammy HLxxA750. Do you think the 61inch or 67 based on the size of the room? Im still deciding on tv/couch placement..maybe Ill draw up a floor plan and see what ya'll think.

Anyway, Ill be pairing this with an Onkyo 606 and SVSOUND SBS-01 speakers.

I wont be buying any compenents until after Thanksgiving so nothing is really set in stone..

Funny.. when I decided on buying a new set up.. my budget was around $2500.. but after reading and researching it has now miraculously grown to $3500.

Thanks in advance for any advice/input.

Long time lurker, first time poster. Be gentle.

Ill be moving into a new apartment hopefully before X-Mas. Along with the new apartment I plan on buying a new tv and home theater. My living room is approximately 12x14 off the top of my head. I originally planned on going with a Panny TH50PZ85U but people kept telling me that I would regret not going bigger. Now Im pretty set on going with a Sammy HLxxA750. Do you think the 61inch or 67 based on the size of the room? Im still deciding on tv/couch placement..maybe Ill draw up a floor plan and see what ya'll think.
I've had the 61A750 for several months and IIRC my viewing distance is about 12 feet. The 61" size works great for me, and the large screen no longer looks/feels immense in the room, which seems to be a common reality for most big screen owners. Given this experience, the 67" screen would have also worked just fine in my room. In fact, many 67" owners sit closer than my set up, and they all love the panoramic view. Also, I could never go back to a "tiny" 50" plasma again. Most plasmas are fine, but the DLPs are the best bang for the buck by far.

Hey Matt27, I just picked up the 67" Sammy at Circuit City for $1800 before tax using a 10% off coupon I found online. Given your budget, that's not too bad.

Long time lurker, first time poster. Be gentle.

Ill be moving into a new apartment hopefully before X-Mas. Along with the new apartment I plan on buying a new tv and home theater. My living room is approximately 12x14 off the top of my head. I originally planned on going with a Panny TH50PZ85U but people kept telling me that I would regret not going bigger. Now Im pretty set on going with a Sammy HLxxA750. Do you think the 61inch or 67 based on the size of the room? Im still deciding on tv/couch placement..maybe Ill draw up a floor plan and see what ya'll think.

Anyway, Ill be pairing this with an Onkyo 606 and SVSOUND SBS-01 speakers.

I wont be buying any compenents until after Thanksgiving so nothing is really set in stone..

Funny.. when I decided on buying a new set up.. my budget was around $2500.. but after reading and researching it has now miraculously grown to $3500.

Thanks in advance for any advice/input.

My living room is about the same as yours dimension wise....I just replace my 4 year old 46" RPTV....which seemed BIG at first, then I wished I'd gotten a 50", then a 56" [maybe].........BUT when I started reviewing all the info I could get about the Sammy 7 Series, I wished that it came in 56" models, BUT after reading more and more I found that many view their bigger screen models as close as 7' [that is what I was viewing my 46"er at].........Finally, I decided to buy the 61A750 and boy am I GLAD I did......It is FANTASTIC, I think, in every way....I LOVE my new "WALK IN TV"!

:rolleyes:

This a long thread. I am an HLM507 owner from our PowerBuy back in 2002. I found an authorized Samsung dealer online selling the 56A650 for $1,042 and the 61A750 for $1,535.

I went looking for the 61A750 but now wondering if it is really worth and extra $500 (35% price premium) to get the LED and 5 more inches?

I am happy with my current set and don't have rainbow issues, mainly upgrading for the 1080P, and the good resale I can get on my current set.

Anyone else have similar decision and care to advise? thanks!

does the HL50A650 use the led color chip? planning on buying it, but don't want to if it uses a color wheel.

does the HL50A650 use the led color chip? planning on buying it, but don't want to if it uses a color wheel.

It uses a lamp and color wheel. Only the HL61A750 and HL67A750 use the LED.

I'm impresed with the HD picture quality of the A650's and have a few questions regarding features, primarily the 61" model. I am in the market for a new set, but do not need to purchase TODAY. I can wait until next years model, if needed.

1) Do the A650's support ANY kind of PIP?
1a) Can I insert a HDMI (or other input) over the Tuner, or vice-versa?
1b) How about HDMI over HDMI? (Composite over Composite), (Component over Component)
The A750 said something about 1-tuner PIP, but the A650 does not mention anything about PIP.

I could not get any of the B&M sales staff to give me a demo of SD source material. I am not going to repurchase all of my DVD's, or other source material (some can not be replaced) to HD, so:
2) What is the picture quality look like from SD content (SD-DVR, DVD, home S-VHS)? Do I need to keep a my 'legacy' Pany 51" TV to maintain a decent looking picture?

3) What type of bulb life expectancy can one expect? Assume standard nightly viewing (5-6 hrs/day). One sales staffer said 9 months, which seems rather short (unless he was trying to sell the A750, or that is 24x7 timetable).

- Chris

Your picture will be fine on your standard DVDs if you have a good upconverting player--My 67A750 has an awesome picture on upconverted DVDs.

Have had set for approx. 2 weeks.....nice design and beautiful picture. However, a problem developed that is prompting me to return it to Vann's and get an exchange. Occassionally a light band, approx. an inch wide (lgt green/purple/gray) moves/rolls from the bottom of the screen to the top of the screen and then repeats itself. Very distracting esp. when watching a football game. Has anyone else experienced a 'problem' such as described? Certainly hope the next a750 doesnt have same problem.

Have had set for approx. 2 weeks.....nice design and beautiful picture. However, a problem developed that is prompting me to return it to Vann's and get an exchange. Occassionally a light band, approx. an inch wide (lgt green/purple/gray) moves/rolls from the bottom of the screen to the top of the screen and then repeats itself. Very distracting esp. when watching a football game. Has anyone else experienced a 'problem' such as described? Certainly hope the next a750 doesnt have same problem.

I had/have a similar problem with my older 42" set recently, but it was only occurring while watching cable and my band was 2" wide and tinted red (very distracting during football as well). I was informed it was an issue with the "ground loop" of one of my pieces of equipment. Seems it is a problem with the cable itself in my case, since it doesn't happen all the time, and only happens while watching cable. You may want to check other sources (like a dvd/blu-ray or game system) to see if it happens with other inputs. If it only happens with one input, it might not be an issue with the tv.

Have had set for approx. 2 weeks.....nice design and beautiful picture. However, a problem developed that is prompting me to return it to Vann's and get an exchange. Occassionally a light band, approx. an inch wide (lgt green/purple/gray) moves/rolls from the bottom of the screen to the top of the screen and then repeats itself. Very distracting esp. when watching a football game. Has anyone else experienced a 'problem' such as described? Certainly hope the next a750 doesnt have same problem.

It is your equipment... My buddy had this issue, but not on his PS3 attached to HDMI. Only with component cables. We took off all other inputs into his reciever. He added them back, and the issue was gone. Make sure to separate you video cables and power cables. You might need better, shielded cables...

I found another set of cables in my garage and used them to connect the cable box to the tv. The 'interference' appears to be gone. Im just using another set i collected through another cable company. Is there a certain 'type' of cable that it is advisable to use with these sets to pull in the best signal?
I appreciate the assistance. Looks like i won't have to return the set after all.

Oh I cannot wait. Just pulled the trigger on the hl61a750!!! Vanns for $1,549.97 shipped and with a Harmony Remote!! It will be replacing a wonderful 27" RCA Console:eek: that I bought used for $100 10 years ago!!!! LOL.... Bout time to upgrade ya think? Wish I could have had the cash about 2 weeks ago for the sale on Crutchfield, but oh well. This one is supposed to get here on the 8th of Dec.

Thanks for the excellent input on this set. This is an awesome forum!!

Now I gotta start saving for the Audio system upgrade!!!:D

http://www.100ksystem.com/Paul/console.jpg

Oh I cannot wait. Just pulled the trigger on the hl61a750!!! Vanns for $1,549.97 shipped and with a Harmony Remote!! It will be replacing a wonderful 27" RCA Console:eek: that I bought used for $100 10 years ago!!!! LOL.... Bout time to upgrade ya think? Wish I could have had the cash about 2 weeks ago for the sale on Crutchfield, but oh well. This one is supposed to get here on the 8th of Dec.

Thanks for the excellent input on this set. This is an awesome forum!!

Now I gotta start saving for the Audio system upgrade!!!:D

http://www.100ksystem.com/Paul/console.jpg

I think my parents had the exact same TV, it required its own fire insurance policy by virtue of the wood surrounding the electronics....

Coupon on that site is expired.

Oh I cannot wait. Just pulled the trigger on the hl61a750!!! Vanns for $1,549.97 shipped and with a Harmony Remote!! It will be replacing a wonderful 27" RCA Console:eek: that I bought used for $100 10 years ago!!!! LOL.... Bout time to upgrade ya think? Wish I could have had the cash about 2 weeks ago for the sale on Crutchfield, but oh well. This one is supposed to get here on the 8th of Dec.

Thanks for the excellent input on this set. This is an awesome forum!!

Now I gotta start saving for the Audio system upgrade!!!:D

http://www.100ksystem.com/Paul/console.jpg

You're gonna love the TV! I thought my old RPCRT was beautiful! I now realize what true beauty is! I also have a Harmony. I got the 550. I use to have the 880. but it went out on me and I didn't want to spend that much on a remote again. Anyway, the 550 is pretty nice.

Good luck! :)

Anyone have any clue if Sammy is going to keep making DLP-LED sets for 2009?

Anyone have any clue if Sammy is going to keep making DLP-LED sets for 2009?

Lets hope so I have been waiting for a 70 plus inch one for two years....

Time to clean the screen but not sure what to use on it and don't want to mess anything up as Santa's bringing a blu-ray player!! Any suggestions?
Thanks & Merry Christmas

I got it, I got it, I got it!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Finally, after all this time.

Last sunday it was all put together and now its Thursday and for these 5 days i have been in heaven, watching the 61" LED Sammy. I am so happy with this set. The picture is beautiful, it looks great on, it looks great just sitting there on my INIT stand, i am so happy i listened to all you guys and bought this set.

Got a Panny BD-35 bluray, a Yamaha RX-V663 receiver, and of course an HD comcast motorola dvr-cable box and a Bose (yes, dont laugh, a Bose) Acoustimas 15 surround sound system.

This is really a nice tv. So far i have played around a little with the menu, but right out of the box the settings were really good.

No problems so far, lets hope it stays that way! Did not waste money on an extended warantee, my credit card doubled the warranty to 2 years, thats enough for me.

Also took everyones advice and used monoprice HDMI 1.3a cables, 3 of them cost me around $20 TOTAL instead of throwing away hundreds of dollars on the expensive ones the stores try to sell you. I cant see how an expensive cable could do better than these monoprice are doing. In fact, on a golf forum i am on, we are discussing this, and one guy had monoprice, bought Monster, saw no difference, and returned the Monster cables.

Thanks too to many people who answered questions i had, both in this thread and in PM's.

Picked up everything thru Best Buy, one by one, waiting for a sale, buying them on the internet so i didnt even have to hassle with a salesman. Everything is new except the sound system which i have had for 5 or 6 years, and while i know i could get better bass with a better sound system, i am not gonna spend any more money at this time. I have the bass turned way up, and its adequate for me, as i love crisp clear mid-ranges which my system reproduces great for my ears.

But back to the tv, this is so good, and the price for the size is so good, why isnt this set being promoted more? Its the best deal out there on the market. If you dont want to hang your set on the wall, why not buy this one? When i tell people i bought an LED DLP they look at me like i am talking in some foreign language, all they know is Plasma and LCD, and all they ever say is Flat-Panel, they dont even use the word television (or tv) anymore. I think its a snob thing, like buying coffee at Starbucks or eating sushi, flat panels are the "in" thing and everyone has to have one. Well, not me.

Glad to join all you fellow owners of this great set. I sit only 8' from the set by the way, and am almost sorry i didnt get the bigger one, so for all you guys who might be still thinking about not buying one becuase you will be sitting too close, go buy it!!!!!!!!! Also to those worrying about SD or non-HD shows, the tv does a very nice job on them and they are certainly watchable. Up-converted dvds really look great too, really great. You can tell its not bluray, but they look exceallant.

I love my setup. Can you tell? ha ha ha

I'm impresed with the HD picture quality of the A650's and have a few questions regarding features, primarily the 61" model. I am in the market for a new set, but do not need to purchase TODAY. I can wait until next years model, if needed.

1) Do the A650's support ANY kind of PIP?
1a) Can I insert a HDMI (or other input) over the Tuner, or vice-versa?
1b) How about HDMI over HDMI? (Composite over Composite), (Component over Component)
The A750 said something about 1-tuner PIP, but the A650 does not mention anything about PIP.

I could not get any of the B&M sales staff to give me a demo of SD source material. I am not going to repurchase all of my DVD's, or other source material (some can not be replaced) to HD, so:
2) What is the picture quality look like from SD content (SD-DVR, DVD, home S-VHS)? Do I need to keep a my 'legacy' Pany 51" TV to maintain a decent looking picture?

3) What type of bulb life expectancy can one expect? Assume standard nightly viewing (5-6 hrs/day). One sales staffer said 9 months, which seems rather short (unless he was trying to sell the A750, or that is 24x7 timetable).

- Chris


I do not think that the 650 has pip. It is a reason I got the 750. On it the only input pip takes is cable or antenna via the coax. I have basic cable for the pip. I like to put a game in pip via cable and have another game on sat via hdmi. It works really nice and you can also output sound for the pip. You cannot watch hd channels with the pip. It is only analog but it is a widecreen format.

Standard definition does not look good on the tv in my opinion. I did watch a standard definition dvd the other day via my ps3 with its upscaler and it looked really good. I would go this direction and not try and watch it sd.

The bulb is a crap shoot. It might last a long time and it might not. My friend just blew his when his kid turned the tv off and on too fast.

...
But back to the tv, this is so good, and the price for the size is so good, why isnt this set being promoted more? Its the best deal out there on the market. If you dont want to hang your set on the wall, why not buy this one? When i tell people i bought an LED DLP they look at me like i am talking in some foreign language, all they know is Plasma and LCD, and all they ever say is Flat-Panel, they dont even use the word television (or tv) anymore. I think its a snob thing, like buying coffee at Starbucks or eating sushi, flat panels are the "in" thing and everyone has to have one.>>
I think you answered your own question.

Mickey

Time to clean the screen but not sure what to use on it and don't want to mess anything up as Santa's bringing a blu-ray player!! Any suggestions?
Thanks & Merry ChristmasIs there a cleaning cloth that comes with the TV..

Here are some pics, the first is movie mode the second is standard. It is kind of hard to see what am talking about by looking at the pics, but you can see somewhat. The third is the blue being too light on BFBC. I tried to adjust the gamma and tried dynamic contrast but it did not fix it. The 4th is Standard the 5th is movie mode. If you look at the smily face on the grenade you can really tell what I mean about how MM seems dull up the picture. Ill post 2 more examples below this.

In these you can really see the difference between movie mode and standard, but not like you can in real life. The last picture is just a general pic. I dont notice any geometry issues or really any issue for that matter, other then the buzzing which is very noticeable to me. I am sure the buzzing is from having the LEDs on dynamic, because if I turn them down it goes away. I wish my center channel could go back in the center, but I have to make do with what I have for now.

Sorry to bug again, but I cant find the link on here that says if you register the TV online with samsung you get a 3 month extension on the warranty.

In these you can really see the difference between movie mode and standard, but not like you can in real life.
Yes, movie mode looks SO much better! Much more natural and accurate looking. I'm really happy with how mine looks with Movie mode and warm2 setting. And Avia calibration confirmed that it was almost spot-on for at least the color-bars calibration. I think I had to bump color one direction just one notch!

My Calibration mode looks best. I think it replaced the movie mode after the professional calibration. But I would never use any mode execept teh Calibration mode anyway.

My Calibration mode looks best. I think it replaced the movie mode after the professional calibration. But I would never use any mode execept teh Calibration mode anyway.

Oh yeah, I'll get mine calibrated after it's been used for a couple hundred hours... but so far its only been used for about 1 hour! :)

Hello All! First time poster and I'd like to say thank you for all the information I've been able to get here. I've recently purchased a Samsung HL56A650 and both and Wife and I were more than pleased out of the box. After plugging in the 'standard' config settings from this thread, even more so...so thanks again! I do have a question though and would like to know if anyone has seen this.

When watching movies, it seems like during scenes that look like they're shot in an area that would have fluorescent lighting (diners, bathrooms etc...) things that would normally be pinkish or red seem to look purple. As an example, watching the movie Pulse, there are times when the girls lips are purple-ish and in areas where there would red on the skin (cheeks) there's a purple-ish tint. We've only noticed this on some indoor scenes, never outside, daylight, night scenes etc. Has anyone seen this before? This is on DVD and Blue Ray (PS3). As another example, watching Dark Knight on Blue Ray, in the scene where Batman is interrogating the Joker, Batmans lips have a real strong purple-ish tint to them. Seems like this would be another place where fluorescent lighting would be used. Both sources are HDMI.

Aside from this, and it's not a HUGE thing (just noticeable), love this TV. Thanks in advance for any help! Oh...and Happy New Year folks!

Can I ask you guys about the picture quality of this tv compare to the samsung LN52A650 LCD? I use to have a 70 inch sony xbr rear projection tv. The picture quality was astounding on blu ray. The only back fall was its weight and it can only go up to 720p. So I manage to sell it and bought the samsung 52 inch. The picture quality was a little bit better, plus it has 4 hdmi inputs. However, I miss the big screen size to watch sports. Any of you guys that is lucky enough to own these two television could give me some opinions? I have 2 weeks left to return my tv. I tried to go to Frys to check the picture quality, but how Fry's set up the tvs make them look horrible. All the tv had bad picture quality. I had to go home and hook my blu ray player to my 650 to get the best picture. Its like frys are playing dvds not blu ray. The HL67 inch right now is about the same price I can get for the 650. The 16 inches the HL67 gives is tempting. Are the picture the same or on par with the 650?

Is there a cleaning cloth that comes with the TV..


Yes, thats right. The tv comes with a cleaning cloth, and thats what to use. I havent looked at mine yet, but i am sure you can find replacements for it on the internet down the road. I'd be real carefull with what i clean that screen with.

Yes, thats right. The tv comes with a cleaning cloth, and thats what to use. I havent looked at mine yet, but i am sure you can find replacements for it on the internet down the road. I'd be real carefull with what i clean that screen with.

Hey. It probably doesn't mean anything, but the instruction manual only mentions using the included cleaning cloth for wiping down the bezel.

Any micro-fiber cloth should be safe to clean the set. That is what I use. :)

I currently own an old HLN617W (2003). Since Samsung has chosen not to make any new DLP models, I'm thinking of upgrading to a 61A750 (for a little more than 1/3 the price of the HLN). If I can sell my current TV, I'll certainly be in the market for a new one, just wondering if the consensus here is that the 750 is worth it. On another thread someone recommended a Pioneer 6020, which I'm sure is great, but for more than double the price of a 750, which I don't want to spend. I know I'm probably asking people who are somewhat biased, but I also know I'll get some dissenting and honest opinions.

I'm aware of the potential for bowing/distortion, and a power issue (supposedly fixed by firmware) so I'll do more detailed research on this thread if I end up buying the TV.

gakkon: My advice. GO FOR IT! I had an older Toshy 46" which I thought had the BEST of PQ........WRONG!!! My 61A750 knocks the socks off of my old Toshy and is, to me, on par with most if not all Plasma and LCD's I see in the stores....it has a million adjustments,,,,,buut I find that the CNET Movie Settings are about PERFECT.
I paid $1350 delivered for mine and then sold my Toshy for $350........this is ONE GREAT TV especially for $1,000.

:rolleyes:

Any micro-fiber cloth should be safe to clean the set. That is what I use. :)

I actually asked the same question about 8 pages back. I had some smudges on my screen, even though I hate Monster products another member here said he used the monster cleaner cloth/cleaner combo. I purchased it and used it on my set with no problems whatsoever.

I've had my 61" LED for a few weeks now, and I couldnt be happier. To me, dollar for dollar its the best tv on the market, where can you get a 61" for a price like this set? And i didnt even get an insane price like some i have seen, i paid $1699.99 online on sale with free delivery from BB and was happy with that. I would go for it if i was you.

Done. :) Will pick it up tomorrow. Last one in the warehouse, but they have more deliveries later this month. My price was a little better than yours, yankeeman, but nothing insane. Now I have to start reading this thread one year late - I may ending up asking a lot of questions that have already been answered. I also have to pick up a new DVD player, but stock on those is pretty thin, too, and I haven't done any research. Suggestions would be appreciated, even if I don't take them (only need to buy 1).

I would go for it if i was you.
RX-V663 + 8300HD DVR + PS3 = No Issues:)

Done. :) Will pick it up tomorrow. Last one in the warehouse, but they have more deliveries later this month. My price was a little better than yours, yankeeman, but nothing insane. Now I have to start reading this thread one year late - I may ending up asking a lot of questions that have already been answered. I also have to pick up a new DVD player, but stock on those is pretty thin, too, and I haven't done any research. Suggestions would be appreciated, even if I don't take them (only need to buy 1).

You mentioned you're replacing a HLN617W in your previous post. I have the same set and am looking for an upgrade. If you wouldn't mind, could you post your thoughts on how it compares to the HLN617W once you've received it and tested it out? I have also been considering upgrading to a large plasma but the price is so attractive on these DLPs still...basically 1/2 the cost. Thanks!

You mentioned you're replacing a HLN617W in your previous post. I have the same set and am looking for an upgrade. If you wouldn't mind, could you post your thoughts on how it compares to the HLN617W once you've received it and tested it out? I have also been considering upgrading to a large plasma but the price is so attractive on these DLPs still...basically 1/2 the cost. Thanks!

I replaced an HLN567W with the HL67A750.

The new set is a huge improvement. Even at 67" it is sharper than the HLN 57, plus all the many benefits of the LED technology, plus the many more user controls to adjust picture.

It's a no-brainer. Don't wait around and get burned. :)

Done. :) Will pick it up tomorrow. Last one in the warehouse, but they have more deliveries later this month. My price was a little better than yours, yankeeman, but nothing insane. Now I have to start reading this thread one year late - I may ending up asking a lot of questions that have already been answered. I also have to pick up a new DVD player, but stock on those is pretty thin, too, and I haven't done any research. Suggestions would be appreciated, even if I don't take them (only need to buy 1).


Good move. As to blu ray player, i got a Panny BD-35 and so far its been great. Really happy with it. Playing it thru a Yamaha RX-V663 receiver. Put it all together with 3 monoprice HDMI cables that cost a TOTAL of about $20, dont waste money on the expensive cables dude.

I am happy for you that you bought the set, you will enjoy it. :):)

I am still waiting for my Monoprice HDMI cables to show up, so I'm not messing with the settings for the cable box (currently component) too much. I can tell you that OTA looks awesome - much better than the same channel on cable, although that's not surprising at this point.

The TV turns on and is ready to go in about 5 seconds - way better than my HLN.
There are a bunch of items in the user menu that used to be in the service menu, providing more flexibility without the opportunity to royally screw things up.
That flexibility allows for a much brighter and improved contrast picture. My HLN lamp was probably through ~2/3 of its life, and that was noticeably affecting the PQ.
No apparent bowing or misalignment at this point, although I don't have a way to check it right now (maybe I'll have to record the HDNet color bars when they show them).
The new set only has a single cable input, so you can hook up either an antenna or a cable from the wall, but not both. The latter is important to me, so I'm going to try to tee the inputs together and see if the TV can handle that. Otherwise, I may need to set up an A/B switch for this.

Still looking for a DVD player, but it will probably be a Blu-Ray. I've been partial to Sony players in the past (the Sammy HD-931 was a little quirky).

I haven't had the set 12 hours, and I was asleep for a lot of that, so that's all I can offer at this point. A lot of my time going forward will be reprogramming the Harmony, since the kids are watching their morning shows.

It's a shame most are giving up on DLP. Unless you are looking at BluRay, I find most LCD's seem to exaggerate pixelation. Something about the DLP technology helps to hide the "jaggedness" of other digital TV"s when they don't have an ultra high native Digital signal.

Unless you are hanging on the wall (which is deceptive due to all the exposed wires) or unless you plan on sitting way to the sides (which isn't a good place to be watching any flat screen) DLP is definitely an awesome option and the only one currently that can do decent 3d.

So how does the BD-35 work for upconversion? I've heard that Blu-Ray players may not do so well in this area (I know, wrong thread, but all I've got right now are SD DVD's).

Definitely need to perform some color adjustments - blacks appear to be really good on this, but the picture is almost too intense; and I've backed down on the LED, contrast, and brightness. The color seems to have off-white tinge to it as well. Hence the need for a DVD player, so I can run Avia.

I found that my set might have a small amount of tilt - 1/16 to 1/8" over the width of the set. Not really noticeable, but it's there. Probably not something I'm going to worry about.

Interesting that when I registered it on line, the web site showed a manufacture date of 12/31/08.

If I were you I'd go for the HL56A650. Besides the fact that there is a thread or two on AVS discussing the problems of the HLTXX87s, just look at the picture on the two of them. Set on Standard, side-by-side, and with the same video source, it should be obvious. The PQ on the HLTXX87 is reminiscent of the old CRT RP units. No pop. No color depth. Dull, under-bright picture. But then, that's just me.


Well i will prefer to go for HL56A650. First of all the great quality picture and sound. Secondly better price for me. Its nearly $900. So this is best choice for buying new HDTV.

Thanks.

I have an HLT5075s and am considering upsizing, but i'm torn. HL61A750 doesn't seem big enough for the $1299shipped (Crutchfield) and the HL67A750 is too expensive to justify at 1800(ish) shipped...

Has anyone seen the 67's drop low? The only places that have them at 1600 are very poorly reviewed online stores!

Does anyone know the size of the base of the 61 or 67" sets? I'm talking about the actual foot, not the width of the set

(Example: my hlt5075s has a good 4" on each side where the tv overhangs)

It matters because I need to decide whether I need a new stand or not.

There's pics and dimensions in the first pages of the owner's thread.

Mevi, there are no deep-discount 67's from reputable dealers....yet. Had it been closer to 15-1600, I would have gone for that instead.

I have an HLT5075s and am considering upsizing, but i'm torn. HL61A750 doesn't seem big enough for the $1299shipped (Crutchfield) and the HL67A750 is too expensive to justify at 1800(ish) shipped...

Has anyone seen the 67's drop low? The only places that have them at 1600 are very poorly reviewed online stores!

Does anyone know the size of the base of the 61 or 67" sets? I'm talking about the actual foot, not the width of the set

(Example: my hlt5075s has a good 4" on each side where the tv overhangs)

It matters because I need to decide whether I need a new stand or not.The foot is the same width on both sets, 39.3"

Mevi, there are no deep-discount 67's from reputable dealers....yet. Had it been closer to 15-1600, I would have gone for that instead.

D'oh! Wife is getting closer to letting me buy one too!

The foot is the same width on both sets, 39.3"

That looks to be the same as my HLT5075s - sweet - it will fit without issue :-)

(I've selectively skipped some posts, reading about 40 pages...tough to read a thread this huge)


Edit

I took the plunge @ Vanns. Hope this works out. Wife didn't seem wholly pleased, but I think she'll understand. Replacing our 5075s means our lamp will last much longer. We burned through one in a single year with all the use we put on it! At a cost of $130/yr, the tv will hopefully pay for itself soon enough (coupled with the cost of a new SD tv in the bedroom since that one is failing...)

Now the 5075s goes to the bedroom and this beautiful beast comes into my livingroom... I think I'm done for awhile ;-)

I've just read through countless pages of this thread and I think I have a good background on this TV. However, I didn't find (and I wasn't going to read all 162 pages) any mention of comparisons with Mitsubishi sets. I did read the review, but I am wondering if any of you have personally compared the two TVs with the same content? I purchased the Mitsubishi 60735 when it was on sale for $999, but I'm considering exchanging it for the Samsung due to the LED lighting and the review. I spent 5 hours calibrating my Mitsubishi set using the service manual, etc. and I am impressed with the 'after-calibrated' picture, although it is not as sharp as I expected. It seems a little soft to me. Any suggestions or help would be appreciated.

I found a GREAT DEAL on this TV this past weekend! The High Definition Store has it for $1795.00 with Free Shipping + No Tax. It also includes the Samsung TR72B TV stand that fits perfectly. The regular price for this stand is $369.99 and at one point I saw it for $300.00 at Vann's if you bundled it with this TV. However, at Vann's the TV is currently going for $1879.98. Since I needed and was planning on buying a TV stand anyway, I ended up getting a great deal out of this because if you discount $300 for the stand I am really getting the TV for $1495.00 or $1425.01 if you discount the regular price of the stand. Either way, around $1500 for this TV delivered is a GREAT deal!!!

P.S. The High Definition Store IS an AUTHORIZED Samsung dealer!

Be sure to read their return policy. It's a bit more restrictive than BB and Amazon (aka. Big River).

http://www.thehighdefinitionstore.com/Terms-and-Conditions-Policy.pdf

I did read their return policy. Although not the best, it is FAIR to me. Especially considering that they are offering this TV for about $400 less than anyone else (taking the free TV stand into account). Additionally, since they are an Authorized Samsung Dealer, the original manufacturer's 1-yr warranty will be in effect. :D

Additionally, since they are an Authorized Samsung Dealer, the original manufacturer's 1-yr warranty will be in effect. :DI would be uncomfortable with their policy, because as I read it, Samsung tech support will be your ONLY recourse since HiDef does not accept the return of any TVs over 19" in screen size. FWIW. Good luck.

I would be uncomfortable with their policy,
Same here..
What if there is cosmetic damage(nicks, dents, scratches) from shipping etc..

Same here..
What if there is cosmetic damage(nicks, dents, scratches) from shipping etc..If the shipping container is damaged, you should not accept the delivery. If you unpack and discover a problem before the delivery guys leave, you can refuse to accept the shipment. If you discover hidden damage after the delivery guys leave then it's between you and the shipping company. At least, that's what I have been told...

At least, that's what I have been told...
Agree..
But most places give you at least a day or two to check the unit out..
Aka 'Hidden Damage'

if your'e in Canada, costco has the 61 and 72 on sale

the 61 comes with the $380 stand and is 1799
the 72 comes with the $380 stand and is 2199

not many left though, our local one just sold out

if your'e in Canada, costco has the 61 and 72 on sale

the 61 comes with the $380 stand and is 1799
the 72 comes with the $380 stand and is 2199

not many left though, our local one just sold outThose prices are not great. Amazon and Vanns sell the 61" and 67" LED units for around $1400 and $1800, give or take (depending on when you look).

Those prices are not great. Amazon and Vanns sell the 61" and 67" LED units for around $1400 and $1800, give or take (depending on when you look).

He's in Canada so his quoted prices are Canadian currency. (Approx. .8 of his prices = US) Given that and the stand being included I think it's a good deal.

He's in Canada so his quoted prices are Canadian currency. (Approx. .8 of his prices = US) Given that and the stand being included I think it's a good deal.I stand corrected.

if your'e in Canada, costco has the 61 and 72 on sale

the 61 comes with the $380 stand and is 1799
the 72 comes with the $380 stand and is 2199

not many left though, our local one just sold out

Unless you meant 67" instead of 72", then you're talking about a different series of TVs. The Samsung DLP LED TVs only come in 61" and 67". :confused:

Agree..
But most places give you at least a day or two to check the unit out..
Aka 'Hidden Damage'

You actually have 3 days. Their return policy is as follows:

"If the unit is physically damaged in transit it should be refused upon delivery and a replacement unit will be sent out. Any concealed physical damage must be reported to us within (3) days of receipt so a claim may be filed and a replacement unit will be sent out.

Any operational problems or factory defects (such as a warped screen) will be handled by a local authorized service center to determine if it is a simple fix or if replacement is necessary.

Good stock items are only returnable if the box is still sealed and are subject to a 15% restocking fee. The customer is responsible for the return freight on good stock returns."

im am looking at buying a samsung 720P TV that was made in 2006 i dont have the model number for it. it is in great condition and the lamp was replaced last year sometime. does anyone have any ideas on how much i should pay for something like this i would appreciate it

im am looking at buying a samsung 720P TV that was made in 2006 i dont have the model number for it. it is in great condition and the lamp was replaced last year sometime. does anyone have any ideas on how much i should pay for something like this i would appreciate itWhat's the screen size?

its a 56" screen sorry

its a 56" screen sorryI sold my HLP6163W (61" 720P DLP) with stand for $675 in December. It was 4 years old.

I would say that price is about the highest I'd pay for a used DLP. Brand new 1080P DLPs in the 56"-61" range can be had for not much more than $1000.

if your'e in Canada, costco has the 61 and 72 on sale

the 61 comes with the $380 stand and is 1799
the 72 comes with the $380 stand and is 2199

not many left though, our local one just sold out

Is this still on this week? I will go pick up a 61 tomorrow...

race tripper,
the one that would buy will come with a $350 glass tv stand he already told me he would give that to me for about ~$150. so how nice was your tv stand that you sold with your tv? i was thinking about that range but i dont know if the tv is worth the ~$700 or so minus the $150 we already talked about
thanks

race tripper,
the one that would buy will come with a $350 glass tv stand he already told me he would give that to me for about ~$150. so how nice was your tv stand that you sold with your tv? i was thinking about that range but i dont know if the tv is worth the ~$700 or so minus the $150 we already talked about
thanksMy stand was the one that came with the TV (originally MSRP $500).

If the stand is included $700 is in the high range of what the TV is worth, and at that price it should also have a bulb with low hours (eg. < 1000) because they cost about $150 to replace.

You might be better off just watching dealnews.com for a TV. If you're patient I'll bet you can end up with a new 56" DLP for around $800.

Anyone know who else in Canada carries this (besides Costco)? I am in Ottawa, btw...

My stand was the one that came with the TV (originally MSRP $500).

If the stand is included $700 is in the high range of what the TV is worth, and at that price it should also have a bulb with low hours (eg. < 1000) because they cost about $150 to replace.

You might be better off just watching dealnews.com for a TV. If you're patient I'll bet you can end up with a new 56" DLP for around $800.

thanks for the advice Dean, ill have to check out that website and see what i can find

thanks for the advice Dean, ill have to check out that website and see what i can findAlso keep and eye on Amazon, Vann's, and Crutchfield. They have had good prices on DLPs over the last couple months. I got my Samsung HL67A750 for 1750 shipped. I've seen 60' DLPs as low as $900.

Midwben, at the price you're talking and 56" I also think you should look hard for a current DLP. The only model that size made in the last year is the HL56A650 which I have and am very happy with. I think at that size and above you really want 1080p and as new as possible. Keep an eye out for sales around $800-900 or slightly larger DLPs for about $1000.

Midwben, at the price you're talking and 56" I also think you should look hard for a current DLP. The only model that size made in the last year is the HL56A650 which I have and am very happy with. I think at that size and above you really want 1080p and as new as possible. Keep an eye out for sales around $800-900 or slightly larger DLPs for about $1000.

first of all thanks i appreciate all the imput from you guys

from what i have heard DLP gives the best picture quaility from any other source LCD Plasma etc...however i also have heard that DLP are going to be slowly faded out of retail stores such as BB and others??? idk for sure thats just what i have been reading on other threads. knowing this is a DLP still the way to go for a television if they are not even going to be produced anymore?

i have also been told by other members of AVS that moving a DLP TV is a big cause for concern as it causes problems with their insides from the jaring around during the moving process anyone else have problems with theirs after moving it or hear about this sort of thing?

Well it boils down to bang for the buck. You aren't gonna get a 56-60" flat panel screen of this quality for anywhere near the cost. Sure DLP has disadvantages but so do plasma and LCD. You have to decide how much you're going to spend for a large screen with excellent PQ. As you go to large sizes DLP gives you great PQ for 1/2 the cost or more.

It is true Samsung has pulled out of the field but Mitsubishi should be around for another year.

thanks quenten...so based on your knowledge how much would be a resonable price to pay for a 3 year old 720p DLP? TV keep in mind it had the bulb replace last fall sometime
thanks

Well hopefully others will have a better answer but I wouldn't be interested in an older 50" DLP, not 1080p and out of warranty. A couple months ago I saw Fred Meyer closing out NIB Sony 55" 720p A2000s for about $750 and that's got to be a better set. Off the top of my head, maybe less than $400?

Off the top of my head, maybe less than $400?

I got more than that for a 2001 HLN model just a few weeks ago (before the Conn's "giveaway").

first of all thanks i appreciate all the imput from you guys

from what i have heard DLP gives the best picture quaility from any other source LCD Plasma etc...however i also have heard that DLP are going to be slowly faded out of retail stores such as BB and others??? idk for sure thats just what i have been reading on other threads. knowing this is a DLP still the way to go for a television if they are not even going to be produced anymore?

i have also been told by other members of AVS that moving a DLP TV is a big cause for concern as it causes problems with their insides from the jaring around during the moving process anyone else have problems with theirs after moving it or hear about this sort of thing?

I don't really think DLP is much more susceptible to problems caused by moving it than any other TV tech. The new laser DLPs from Mitsu must be carefully moved, but that is about it.

I don't really think DLP is much more susceptible to problems caused by moving it than any other TV tech. The new laser DLPs from Mitsu must be carefully moved, but that is about it.My HL67 DLP rode on a truck from Montana to Colorado to Missouri, and ended up just fine.

Well, on my dad's 72A650, they changed out the power supply, the dmd board, and the color wheel board. The tv runs now, but the pic looks very grainy even on HD, and the bottom part of the screen looks out of focus. Also, the tech left us a present, namely prints or dirt on the big mirror or the screen visible on light backgrounds, and painfully obvious when the set is shut off in the dark. Man I hope my 67 A750 doesn't break down!

Has any of the 650 owners used Lee Bailey's service menu tweaks? Just wondering if the would work on a lamp. I can't try it my self couse my tv won't be here till Tues. Thanks

Hello all, I just got the HL67A750 a few days ago, but found one big problem already:

The bottom right corner has SOFT image. Using a connection to a HTPC, I tested the center, top left, bottom left, top right. All texts and images appear "fuzzy" when moved into this bottom right area.

Did I get a "lemon" or there is hope? What do I do? I am still within the exchange window so technically I could return it and asked for exchange but I think that's the last one in my local store.

Take it back and ask for another or your money back. Don't wait another day, do it today.

So here's the issue...My cable box (HD-DVR from Charter Cable in ATL) is plugged into hdmi 1 and every so often I'll get a flicker on the screen, more like a really quick flash. It happens every so often, but only on HDMI 1.
It gets weirder...When I try my PS3 on that input, it says "mode not supported"
Does anyone know why this is happening? This is my 2nd A750 from HH Gregg thus far (HDMI 1 on the 1st unit had all kinds of stuff going on including what looked like flashbulbs going off on the screen) and they don't have any to swutch out for a while, so I'm troubleshooting this one on my own for the time being...

So here's the issue...My cable box (HD-DVR from Charter Cable in ATL) is plugged into hdmi 1 and every so often I'll get a flicker on the screen, more like a really quick flash. It happens every so often, but only on HDMI 1.
It gets weirder...When I try my PS3 on that input, it says "mode not supported"
Does anyone know why this is happening? This is my 2nd A750 from HH Gregg thus far (HDMI 1 on the 1st unit had all kinds of stuff going on including what looked like flashbulbs going off on the screen) and they don't have any to swutch out for a while, so I'm troubleshooting this one on my own for the time being...

i'm curious about your HD-DVR from Charter. i'm contemplating switching up from HD box but I haven't been able to get any feedback concerning Charters DVR service. It'll be a bit of a hassle to change out boxes and if it's anything like their "on demand" service (great to have, chore to use) i would not think it's worth what you have to pay for it. What box do you have? are you satisified with it? thanks in advance.

JP,
I mean, Charter is Charter. Quality isn't the best, but I don't have a choice in this area...I preferred my directv box, but I live in a damn forest, lol.

Oh, and the box I have is the Motorola DCH6416.
It can get sluggish sometimes and more often than not there's a delay in responding to commands from the remote. Hope that helps.

So here's the issue...My cable box (HD-DVR from Charter Cable in ATL) is plugged into hdmi 1 and every so often I'll get a flicker on the screen, more like a really quick flash. It happens every so often, but only on HDMI 1.
It gets weirder...When I try my PS3 on that input, it says "mode not supported"
Does anyone know why this is happening? This is my 2nd A750 from HH Gregg thus far (HDMI 1 on the 1st unit had all kinds of stuff going on including what looked like flashbulbs going off on the screen) and they don't have any to swutch out for a while, so I'm troubleshooting this one on my own for the time being...

Don't know why it's flickering, but most PS3 problems have been the issue with 24p output on the PS3. Especially when watching blue ray. I forget exactly where, but go into the ps3 settings menu and disable 24p and try it then. That solved all of my "mode not supported" issues. I run my equipment through a Sony AV Receiver.

Don't know why it's flickering, but most PS3 problems have been the issue with 24p output on the PS3. Especially when watching blue ray. I forget exactly where, but go into the ps3 settings menu and disable 24p and try it then. That solved all of my "mode not supported" issues. I run my equipment through a Sony AV Receiver.I have 24p enabled on my PS3 and it works just fine on my HL67A750, but I connect directly from the PS3 to the TV's HDMI input.

I just got a 72A650 yesterday. I see that the model number is actually HL72A650. I'm looking for discrete codes on Remote Central. They have a list that has HLN, HLP, HLR, HLS, HLT, but none that are just HL. Which should I use? I'm specifically looking for discrete On, Off and Input codes.

Thanks

I just got a 72A650 yesterday. I see that the model number is actually HL72A650. I'm looking for discrete codes on Remote Central. They have a list that has HLN, HLP, HLR, HLS, HLT, but none that are just HL. Which should I use? I'm specifically looking for discrete On, Off and Input codes.

ThanksI think any of the HLR/S/T should work. What remote are you using. Some have them built-in (Harmony, URC MX series).

Quote:
Originally Posted by khackshaw
So here's the issue...My cable box (HD-DVR from Charter Cable in ATL) is plugged into hdmi 1 and every so often I'll get a flicker on the screen, more like a really quick flash. It happens every so often, but only on HDMI 1.
It gets weirder...When I try my PS3 on that input, it says "mode not supported"
Does anyone know why this is happening? This is my 2nd A750 from HH Gregg thus far (HDMI 1 on the 1st unit had all kinds of stuff going on including what looked like flashbulbs going off on the screen) and they don't have any to swutch out for a while, so I'm troubleshooting this one on my own for the time being...
Don't know why it's flickering, but most PS3 problems have been the issue with 24p output on the PS3. Especially when watching blue ray. I forget exactly where, but go into the ps3 settings menu and disable 24p and try it then. That solved all of my "mode not supported" issues. I run my equipment through a Sony AV Receiver.

Thing is it works fine on hdmi 2 and 3...I'm thinking of calling it a day as this is the 2nd TV i've had in 3 days...Not a good sign...

I just got my HL67A750, and I love it!
Could anyone recommend a center channel speaker stand so I can put it on top of TV?

Thanks.

I think any of the HLR/S/T should work. What remote are you using. Some have them built-in (Harmony, URC MX series).

I'm using an old Pronto TSU2000. I'll switch eventually (probably to a Harmony 1100), but I'm trying to get by w. this for now. Thanks for the help!

I think any of the HLR/S/T should work. What remote are you using. Some have them built-in (Harmony, URC MX series).

Good news/Bad news... The codes for the HLT series work!!! BUT, there is no code for 'Power On' and the 'Power On' code from the HLS series does not work.

Does anyone know where I can find the right 'Power On' code??

BTW, here is a link to the page w. the other codes that work for the XXA650 series:

http://www.remotecentral.com/cgi-bin/files/rcfiles.cgi?area=professional&db=discrete&br=samsung&dv=hltserieshdtv

Thanks!

OK, I put on my Vulcan ears and applied some logic ... I looked at the HLS series discrete codes for 'On' and 'Off.' They were exactly the same except for two sets of numbers. The 'Off' had a 0015 where the On had a 0040 and vice versa. So, I went to the 'Off' code for the HLT series. It uses 0015 and 0041. I switched the numbers in the same spots as the HLS series - and it works!

Here is the code if anyone needs it:

0000 006c 0022 0000 00ad 00ad 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0041 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0041 0015 0015 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0015 0015 0728

(I copied it from my Pronto, so it should paste neatly).

So here's the issue...My cable box (HD-DVR from Charter Cable in ATL) is plugged into hdmi 1 and every so often I'll get a flicker on the screen, more like a really quick flash. It happens every so often, but only on HDMI 1.
It gets weirder...When I try my PS3 on that input, it says "mode not supported"
Does anyone know why this is happening? This is my 2nd A750 from HH Gregg thus far (HDMI 1 on the 1st unit had all kinds of stuff going on including what looked like flashbulbs going off on the screen) and they don't have any to swutch out for a while, so I'm troubleshooting this one on my own for the time being...

First post here: This happens to me sometimes with an older Aquos and a Motorola 3412 HD-DVR box from Comcast Cable. It has happened less since Comcast did its last software upgrade on the box. The workaround for me has been to disconnect the HDMI cord for about 30 seconds. Before the software upgrade, I sometimes had to power-cycle the cable box.

Also, you may want to check the settings on your cable box. The best settings for the picture (480i, 480p, 720p, etc.) seem to vary from from one TV type/model to the next. I do not know what the manufacturer of your cable box is. If you have the Motorola, I can help you get into that menu.

tk, the box is a Motorola DCH6416

tk, the box is a Motorola DCH6416

Since mine is a 3412, I do not know if yours is the same, but, we can try:

To access the "special" menu:

1. Press POWER, then immediately (as quickly as possible), press MENU. (If the menu does not come up, try pressing MENU again.) If this does not work, then your box is probably different from mine.

2. Once in the menu, go to "Additional HDMI Settings."

3. Look for "Color Spacing." Choose "RGB," as opposed to Y C C 4 4 4. My manual says that most HDMI connections prefer that choice. (I changed to that setting on all of my TVs, and got the added benefit of more vivid color.)

4. Once finished, press POWER to exit the menu. You may have to press POWER once more to turn your box back on.

Hope this helps you.

Tried it, will see what happens.
Thanks

Hello all, I just got the HL67A750 a few days ago, but found one big problem already:

The bottom right corner has SOFT image. Using a connection to a HTPC, I tested the center, top left, bottom left, top right. All texts and images appear "fuzzy" when moved into this bottom right area.

Did I get a "lemon" or there is hope? What do I do? I am still within the exchange window so technically I could return it and asked for exchange but I think that's the last one in my local store.

You are not the only one with this issue. I have a similar problem as well with my TV, except, it's top-left corner that has a soft focus / convergence problem. I've had my TV since last summer and, while noticing some "hot spot" effect at the center/bottom-right of the screen and not being as impressed with blu-ray sharpness lately, I just dismissed it as part of DLP technology and getting used to the good stuff correspondingly.

Now, after I have finally built my HTPC, issues became more apparent as simple web browsing / text reading will show which areas of the screen are sharp and which ones are blurry. An easier way to test the issue is to display a test grid. You will see that the soft focus area of the screen will show some convergence issues - instead of pure white lines you will see red / cyan outlines.

I personally have submitted a service request with Samsung. Of course, first technician they sent didn't have a clue about the TV he was looking at (no knowledge of LED engine or service menu existence). The second tech they assigned has yet to arrive (and I have already called Samsung and the local tech shop more than a dozen times - no exaggeration here).

I will keep you updated to see if the issue gets resolved. After reading this forum and some other people's comments, I know I have a long and hard battle ahead. But I also know that there are a lot of picky users that do have perfect focus/convergence on there A750's.

Has anyone calibrated an HL50A650? My white balance is really good but i can't get the "Y" value for green or blue to come in line at all. Does anyone know if this is possible and what contols these "Y" values in the service menu?

Hi Gang,

Just unboxed my 61A750...yay!

Set is still unplugged. Now, I'm aware that everybody's mentioned the small light circle in the middle (with the set off) of the screen, about 1/3 up from the bottom as being an artifact of the mirror inside. Thing is, my "small light circle" is actually what appears to be the bottom of a larger vase/tornado shaped pattern that extends all the way to the top of the set. Granted, this top part of the vase tends to darken just a bit as I stoop to view the set at proper eye level, but as soon as I stand up, it's glaringly obvious. Ya think this will be problematic? thanks

Thinking about a purchase. Hello, I currently have a "non-functioning" HL-S6767W. I have gone through 1 light engine replacement and 2 color wheel replacements in 1.5 years. This time the light engine needs replaced again! Well lucky for me it looks like they might just give me $$ back. Another good thing is that with Circuit City closing I get cash back instead of store credit. So I am in the market again for a TV and this time I don't have to only look at Circuit City floor models to find a reasonable price for a TV (as I have done the last 2 times I had to get a TV). I am not a fan of the LCD prices or the motion blur, so that leaves me in the DLP family of TVs. I am in love this the 67A750 set and that is what I am targeting to purchase. I am estimating on having $1800 for a new TV.

I know this set is a stellar set (and I expect some bias as this is obviously an owner thread), but with this set being 1 year old technology and the looming death of DLP (I heard Samsung hasn't announced any 2009 DLP models?); should I still look at purchasing this set? Basically if you had $1800 to buy a TV right now would you "rebuy" your current A700 series DLP or get something else?

The other question I have is regarding a warranty. With my last 2 TVs I did purchase (thank goodness) a warranty mainly because they were floor models and with the high use I knew I would need a bulb shortly after. Well my first RPTV Sony XBR lasted 3 years before the parts were obseleted and repair couldn't be done; and my Samsung 67" now has lasted only 2 years. So also would you recommend I get a warranty with this set, if I end up getting this set? Based on straight technology reliability I would tend to say no, but based on my concern over part obselecense, I am now leaning toward yes. I would hate to have this amazing TV for 2-3 years and then when one small part fails, face not being able to repair it because of part availability. I am considering the MACK TV/no bulb warranty at this time. Thanks in advance for your thoughts and advice.
Patrick

Thinking about a purchase. Hello, I currently have a "non-functioning" HL-S6767W. I have gone through 1 light engine replacement and 2 color wheel replacements in 1.5 years. This time the light engine needs replaced again! Well lucky for me it looks like they might just give me $$ back. Another good thing is that with Circuit City closing I get cash back instead of store credit. So I am in the market again for a TV and this time I don't have to only look at Circuit City floor models to find a reasonable price for a TV (as I have done the last 2 times I had to get a TV). I am not a fan of the LCD prices or the motion blur, so that leaves me in the DLP family of TVs. I am in love this the 67A750 set and that is what I am targeting to purchase. I am estimating on having $1800 for a new TV.

I know this set is a stellar set (and I expect some bias as this is obviously an owner thread), but with this set being 1 year old technology and the looming death of DLP (I heard Samsung hasn't announced any 2009 DLP models?); should I still look at purchasing this set? Basically if you had $1800 to buy a TV right now would you "rebuy" your current A700 series DLP or get something else?

The other question I have is regarding a warranty. With my last 2 TVs I did purchase (thank goodness) a warranty mainly because they were floor models and with the high use I knew I would need a bulb shortly after. Well my first RPTV Sony XBR lasted 3 years before the parts were obseleted and repair couldn't be done; and my Samsung 67" now has lasted only 2 years. So also would you recommend I get a warranty with this set, if I end up getting this set? Based on straight technology reliability I would tend to say no, but based on my concern over part obselecense, I am now leaning toward yes. I would hate to have this amazing TV for 2-3 years and then when one small part fails, face not being able to repair it because of part availability. I am considering the MACK TV/no bulb warranty at this time. Thanks in advance for your thoughts and advice.
Patrick

I share your same concerns about the availability of parts if something breaks, but is something I can do nothing about at this point. If I was getting something now, I would likely either rebuy this set, or not get another set at all. There is just nothing else out there that suits me.

I finally made the purchase of the HL67A750 yesterday. I got a ridiculous deal I think from a local BM store where they gave me a brand new in the box TV with a 3 year in-home service contract (this gets extended to a 4th year through American Express since I purchased it with an American Express Card)that includes replacement if anything goes wrong with it that can't be fixed and if the TV is no longer available I will get something comparable to replace it, plus free delivery for $1,750 out the door....this price also includes tax in my state. I think I got a steal considering that the 3 year replacement plan cost $259 and delivery is $60 and I had to pay tax.

They also said they just got a shipment in a week ago into their warehouse. The guy said he heard they are going to continue with the LED DLP from what he was hearing for this year. Don't know if they're going to be updating it, but they will still be manufacturing it he thinks....I found that interesting. Plus I called Samsung and they have build dates of Feb 2009...so he could be telling the truth. I thought they were going the way of the doo-doo bird.

Anyway...I'm pretty psyched about the new TV. I always wanted a bigger screen but didn't want to sacrifice Pic Quality to do it and have to drop $4,000 plus to get it. I think this TV is a steal as long as you sit in front of the TV in your setup and you have the space and don't require needing to mount it on a wall. I love my current TV....Sony 34XBR960 (the last of the CRT Super-Fine Pitch Tube TV's). I know my pic won't be as nice as this TV since it's a tube and it's tough to beat the pic quality (detail, color) from this TV...but I just wanted something bigger...plus it weighed around 250 pounds and was a pain to move. This TV is now going to be my secondary TV since I still love the pic I get from it.

I want to thank everyone on this forum for all their input on this TV that helped me in my search...everyone here is great resource and tells it like it is.

Just a few questions about this TV for you. I plan on hooking up a Mac mini to this to use as a HTPC. I know the Mini will push a 1080P signal to this through HDMI. Just curious if anyone on here has used this TV as a computer monitor as well and what are the results like. Does it fill the screen correctly or are there black bars or bad overscan. I am hoping since this TV has the "Just Scan" feature that it will automatically fit the screen. Anyone with any experience with this issue? Also...does this TV upconvert a 1080i source to 1080P through component inputs or just HDMI. Lastly...I imagine it's better to use an upconverting DVD player to play non bluray discs rather than running a regular 480p DVD player and letting the TV do the upconversion for you. Thanks and look forward to hearing any comments about my questions.

I have the older Samsung DLP 50" that's Non-LED. My extended warantee from ABC Warehouse ends this October `09. They no longer carry my TV. My question is, what will they replace it with? Should I wait a bit longer before I call it in for service? The problem with the TV, is that there are dark smudges near the bottom of the screen and there is some slight bowing on both sides of the set.

My HLP 5085 (purchased 8/04) died Sunday. I have a CC warranty and tech will be coming tomorrow to check it out. Conns in San Antonio has a great price for the 67 what say you should I go ahead an purchase the 67 or wait for the outcome of the HLP?

Hi guys! I searched the forum, and didn't see any threads talking about issues on the HL72A650. I found this thread, but can't seem to be able to search within it alone.

I was hoping you guys could give me some insight into the Samsung HL72A650. I fell in love with it, and am curious if there are any reasons to avoid it. Some googling found some people commenting about bulb issues early on that are not covered by warranty. I figured it would be best to inquire with the masters of all things audio/video on the matter for a proper response.

Any help is greatly appreciated. Thank you.

I know I am a noob, but I did search prior to posting. Any advice on the tv would be really appreciated. Thanks.

Any advice on the tv would be really appreciated.

Give up the 5" in screen size

Go with the 'No Bulb' HL67A750

Customer Reviews
Samsung HL72A650 72-Inch 1080p Slim DLP HDTV

http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-HL72A650-72-Inch-1080p-Slim/product-reviews/B001418WEK/ref=cm_cr_dp_all_helpful?ie=UTF8&coliid=&showViewpoints=1&colid=&sortBy=bySubmissionDateDescending

Give up the 5" in screen size

Go with the 'No Bulb' HL67A750

Customer Reviews
Samsung HL72A650 72-Inch 1080p Slim DLP HDTV

Thank you very much. The 67" has gotten favorable reviews here? I see the Amazon ones seem very positive.

I appreciate the recommendation, and believe I will take you up on it. From what I have read about the 72" is that the bulb is the weak link.

How do you feel about the big Mitsubishi 73? I wanted to see if I could squeeze in that little extra size if possible. But if you think the Samsung 67 is the way to go.. I will definitely do that. Thanks again.

I'm having the same issues as RusskySam when used as a PC display (blurry/unfocused area in the upper left). Other than that, can't be happier with the picture, especially hooked up to a HD source. TV/Movies are outstanding and a pleasure to watch.

Trying to pick a good AVR..
Thinking of the Onkyo HT-S6100 .
What have others here done about routing all sources to the reciever via HDMI with only one HDMI output to the HL67A750..That means everything will have to be on one of the TV's Inputs?

Went ahead and purchased the set. Man I should have paid for delivery cuz gettin that thing up satirs was a killer. Now I need to find a good stand. I'll be sitting about 15 feet away any recommendations on stand height?

Went ahead and purchased the set. Man I should have paid for delivery cuz gettin that thing up satirs was a killer. Now I need to find a good stand. I'll be sitting about 15 feet away any recommendations on stand height?Stand should be about 20" high. You are sitting way too far away, even for the 67" or 72" sets. You need to get closer if you want the full benefit of 1080p.

Rainbow effect???

I've got the 61A750.
While watching Keith Olbermann last night (no comments, please), I noticed that every now and then, I'd see a tiny bit of green flashing in his silver hair. It would come and go sort of randomly. Is this the rainbow effect that folks talk about? I didn't see it anywhere else.

Rainbow effect???

I've got the 61A750.
While watching Keith Olbermann last night (no comments, please), I noticed that every now and then, I'd see a tiny bit of green flashing in his silver hair. It would come and go sort of randomly. Is this the rainbow effect that folks talk about? I didn't see it anywhere else.This is an LED-based set. The rainbow effect people talk about is associated with the bulb-based sets that have spinning color wheels. The light engines on the LED-based sets work differently.

you green glimmers are probably from HDMI - you might need to cycle all your stuff off and disconnect all cables and then reconnect - this happens to me on my PS3 running through a switch and happened on cable a time or two

rainbows, as mentioned are from the spinning wheel in bulb based sets - the issue there would be a full rainbow, generally in a moving object (or if you move your head/eyes quickly across any image) - you would see a full rainbow, not just the green/pink "static" in the image

Rainbow effect???

I've got the 61A750.
While watching Keith Olbermann last night (no comments, please), I noticed that every now and then, I'd see a tiny bit of green flashing in his silver hair. It would come and go sort of randomly. Is this the rainbow effect that folks talk about? I didn't see it anywhere else.

There are two rainbow effects. One is caused by the spinning color wheel in bulb-based models, and I'm not sure what the other is caused by. I never see it on HD, but on Countdown(I watch it too) in Keith's hair, and on some things such as basketball games, in the nets I have also seen it on the first and second DVD sets of the X-Files as well. I know it is not HDMI or the set because I saw it on my plain old projection SD set, and on my dad's sony LCd too.

btw, just hooked up my set a few days ago....no hdmi, straight cable. Need to go get some HDMI this weekend. Oh, and a HD cable box too. :D Thanks for the replies.

Just ordered the 67"!!!! I am excited!!! Looking for a good stand now. Seems like 20" height is what I need from a few posts up!

I've seen this TV at a local electronic store for around $1699. I'm assuming Samsung has stopped production on this TV which worries me about buying this set. Then again to get a TV this size for that price to replace my 6 year old 73" Mitsu Diamond is hard if not impossible.

You can always get the 67" LED set. I would have gone with teh 72" if it was LED, but I didn't want to get another set that used bulbs and always have the color spectrum shift after calibration.

Trying to pick a good AVR..
Thinking of the Onkyo HT-S6100 .
What have others here done about routing all sources to the reciever via HDMI with only one HDMI output to the HL67A750..That means everything will have to be on one of the TV's Inputs?


Yes

Using 1 input(from the AVR) works fine..

Just wanted to say that I really enjoy watching online videos on the 50A650...like the Masters Golf this week...

...and reading the newspaper on such a clear sharp screen...

I'm a new HL67A750 owner, and also experienced the same corner soft/fuzzy issue via HTPC as other individuals here. I did a quick check and found the following AVS members having the same issue with their respective problematic area, build date (YY/MM), and firmware, with mine thrown in as well to keep track:

hungryJonJon (LR)
avsscientist (LR)
angra (LR)
RusskySam (UL)
steltman2001 (UL)
Bastian74 (UL)
Artjohn (UL)
CRXtasy (UL) 08/09 1007.4

Please kindly update your latest prognosis and dealing with Samsung if you have an oustanding/closed trouble ticket. I opened mine via toll-free # and will do further testing with OTA once ready. For reference, I'm running Gigabyte GA-MA69GM-S2H on-board HDMI out to Samsung HDMI/DVI #3 using 28AWG HDMI short-run cable. Cable swap & different HDMI inputs on Samsung all result in the same. I'm sure collective knowledge to this not uncommon issue will be very helpful to all concerned owners!

You are not the only one with this issue. I have a similar problem as well with my TV, except, it's top-left corner that has a soft focus / convergence problem. I've had my TV since last summer and, while noticing some "hot spot" effect at the center/bottom-right of the screen and not being as impressed with blu-ray sharpness lately, I just dismissed it as part of DLP technology and getting used to the good stuff correspondingly.

Now, after I have finally built my HTPC, issues became more apparent as simple web browsing / text reading will show which areas of the screen are sharp and which ones are blurry. An easier way to test the issue is to display a test grid. You will see that the soft focus area of the screen will show some convergence issues - instead of pure white lines you will see red / cyan outlines.

I personally have submitted a service request with Samsung. Of course, first technician they sent didn't have a clue about the TV he was looking at (no knowledge of LED engine or service menu existence). The second tech they assigned has yet to arrive (and I have already called Samsung and the local tech shop more than a dozen times - no exaggeration here).

I will keep you updated to see if the issue gets resolved. After reading this forum and some other people's comments, I know I have a long and hard battle ahead. But I also know that there are a lot of picky users that do have perfect focus/convergence on there A750's.

does the a750 have a headphone jack? i looked at the manual and didn't find it, but wanted to make sure.

does the a750 have a headphone jack? i looked at the manual and didn't find it, but wanted to make sure.No, it does not.

My family was over the house for Easter and my brother in law doesn't have a HDTV (he's an accountant with 2 small kids - he's never home and the kids are home wreckers) but he was blown away by the picture on my new set - he was watching the Master's in the finished basement / home entertainment room while everyone else was upstairs in the living room (no tv there). I came down to check on him and he said "man, this looks so good, I can read the greens and see how the ball is going to break" - needless to say, I don't think there will be any fights when a major is on and they are slated to come down to my house...now if I can keep the homewrecker kids from jumping on the furniture and torturing the dogs...

is the 67a750 110-240v?

Does the HL67A750 has a variable-level audio output? I would like to run sound through an older (but great) receiver that does not have a remote control.

Many thanks

One other question:

Given the occasional lemon and the discontinuation of DLP, I am weighing the 67A750 against the plasma 58" samsung (58A550). Thoughts?

One other question:

Given the occasional lemon and the discontinuation of DLP, I am weighing the 67A750 against the plasma 58" samsung (58A550). Thoughts?One bit of info, the occasional lemon is by no means a distinctive characteristic of DLPs. I'll bet plasmas have an equal -- if not higher -- failure rate.

If I were getting a Plasma I would look at the Panasonic. I hear it often that plasma is not Samsung's strength whereas it is for Panasonic.

Hi i own the HL50A650 and i Love it. Have a problem though it just shut off by itself and it keeps powering on then off again by itself. Has anybody else had this problem?

Received my HL61 March 10th. HD CATV via hdmi, BD3600 via hdmi, DVD via component, xbox via component. Had this problem start April 18th during the nascar race. Picture would flicker to black and then go completely black. Picture returned in a minute or two and didn't happen again until about three days later. It's still intermitant but has gotten to the point of happenning every time I watch. Called Samsung Monday 4/27 and they were good. Had me on the phone with local service within 10 minutes. Tech at my house Wednesday 4/29. The problem didn't show right away so he took my TV to the shop. They ran it all yesterday and no problem so they're going to have it on this morning to see if the issues shows and if not bring it back to my house this pm. Nice guys by the way and knowledgable. They figure if they can't find the problem now it will eventually break completely and then they can fix it. Also, they had all the parts when they came to the house, light engine, power supply, etc.

Issue is:
-Picture flickers then goes black, some green/pink artifacts prior to flicker starting.
-In completely dark room the subtle shading of the image, charcoal on black, can be seen on the screen
-Power is still on
-Audio still works
-No trouble LED's flashing
-All inputs effected
-No on screen graphics/menus visable
-Image either comes back on its own, comes back after a power cycle or comes back after turning off and letting sit for a while.
-LED on Monster Power Center shows voltage drop when screen goes black so obviously there's something going on.

Incidently I love the picture on this TV, I want it up and running for 10+ years. My 2001 Mits rear projection 55hd just started going out so I decided to upgrade and I'm very pleased with the Samsung.

Hi i own the HL50A650 and i Love it. Have a problem though it just shut off by itself and it keeps powering on then off again by itself. Has anybody else had this problem?

On the A750 changing to 1005.3 firmware fixed the same problem. Check Samsung website. With the A750 1005.3 may have been a lower number than was installed but it still fixed it.

On the A750 changing to 1005.3 firmware fixed the same problem. Check Samsung website. With the A750 1005.3 may have been a lower number than was installed but it still fixed it.

That firmware won't work with the A650 will it? I let it continue to cycle on and off for awhile and the three led on the front started blinking. That means the lamp has gone bad right? The thing is i never noticed the screen getting darker or any other warning signs of a lamp going bad. also sometimes the tv will display the input info for about 5 seconds then turn off again. If the lamp was bad would it display anything at all? Thanks for any responses, Samsung is supposed to send a tech out Monday.

Does anyone have this problem? When I am watching TV, and the camera pans real quick, the pixels have to catch up. Its very annoying, and this never happened on my lcd tv. I have the Samsung HL61A750.

I see it rarely, I have had my HL61A750 LED set since June 08 and couldn't be more pleased with it!:cool: I believe that's called pixelation and usually occurs from your signal provider be it satellite or cable. I'm on BELL in Manitoba Canada:)

Does anyone have this problem? When I am watching TV, and the camera pans real quick, the pixels have to catch up. Its very annoying, and this never happened on my lcd tv. I have the Samsung HL61A750.

nope - who is your provider for TV services?

Does it happen only on 1 channel?
Does it happen on all sources?

Comcast is my cable provider. I had an LCD sony 52" and I never had this problem, so I dont think its my service provider....but then again... who knows

Comcast is my cable provider. I had an LCD sony 52" and I never had this problem, so I dont think its my service provider....but then again... who knows

If it happens with a Blu-ray source (or other source other than cable), call for service - that is not normal

After having the main power supply and lamp ballast replaced by Samsung Tech, picture is really bad and Tech is ordering a new DMD board. Colors are really washed out. Tech said he has never seen anything like it before.

Just got mine from 6ave today. Set it up with my new samsung 1600 blu ray player, and Kingdom of Heaven looks great!!!

The new set is miles better than my old 55" mitsubishi 1080i crt rp unit, although the new system shows clearly how compressed some of the dish network channels are...

I can't get the TV set to Warm 2 mode - what other setting that I'm using is graying out the Warm 1 & Warm 2 options?

Just got mine from 6ave today. Set it up with my new samsung 1600 blu ray player, and Kingdom of Heaven looks great!!!

The new set is miles better than my old 55" mitsubishi 1080i crt rp unit, although the new system shows clearly how compressed some of the dish network channels are...

I can't get the TV set to Warm 2 mode - what other setting that I'm using is graying out the Warm 1 & Warm 2 options?

i think you have to set it to movie mode, not dynamic or normal.

After having the main power supply and lamp ballast replaced by Samsung Tech, picture is really bad and Tech is ordering a new DMD board. Colors are really washed out. Tech said he has never seen anything like it before.

Replaced DMD board but Picture is still bad. Tech asked Samsung if they could order a new light engine but was told it was not available. They now want him to replace the color wheel. If that fails Tech said they will put in for a Replacement TV.

Just got mine from 6ave today. Set it up with my new samsung 1600 blu ray player, and Kingdom of Heaven looks great!!!

The new set is miles better than my old 55" mitsubishi 1080i crt rp unit



Agreed..

although the new system shows clearly how compressed some of the dish network channels are...

That's the secret that's hard to explain to others
;)

Hi i own the HL50A650 and i Love it. Have a problem though it just shut off by itself and it keeps powering on then off again by itself. Has anybody else had this problem?

I had this issue and the lamp ballast had to be replaced. It was under warranty thank god and they gave me a new lamp since they began fixing the cheapest problems first.

I had this issue and the lamp ballast had to be replaced. It was under warranty thank god and they gave me a new lamp since they began fixing the cheapest problems first.

I wish that was the only problem i had. They've replaced the ballast and main power supply which fixed the power issue, but picture looked like crap. They've since replaced dmd board and nothing has worked. They're coming out this wednesday to replace the light engine. Mine is still under warranty so i lucked out i guess.

I wish that was the only problem i had. They've replaced the ballast and main power supply which fixed the power issue, but picture looked like crap. They've since replaced dmd board and nothing has worked. They're coming out this wednesday to replace the light engine. Mine is still under warranty so i lucked out i guess.


I think I jinxed myself. My unit just failed again. It seems to be the same problem as last time, which leads me to my question.

Does Samsung's standard 1 year warranty have a "no lemon" policy where if it fails a few times they give you a new model? The guy on the phone had no idea what I was talking about.

I think I jinxed myself. My unit just failed again. It seems to be the same problem as last time, which leads me to my question.

Does Samsung's standard 1 year warranty have a "no lemon" policy where if it fails a few times they give you a new model? The guy on the phone had no idea what I was talking about.

The tech who came out to my place said he's come across a lot of lamp ballasts going out. He says the problem is the main power supply is bad and if it's not replaced it'll keep blowing the ballast due to overheating. As far as the "no lemon" issue I was told by the tech if my unit is not fixed this week they will put in for a replacement.

The tech who came out to my place said he's come across a lot of lamp ballasts going out. He says the problem is the main power supply is bad and if it's not replaced it'll keep blowing the ballast due to overheating. As far as the "no lemon" issue I was told by the tech if my unit is not fixed this week they will put in for a replacement.

Hmm, what does that mean?

Would you get a refurb? Or another model entirely?

The tech who came out to my place said he's come across a lot of lamp ballasts going out. He says the problem is the main power supply is bad and if it's not replaced it'll keep blowing the ballast due to overheating. As far as the "no lemon" issue I was told by the tech if my unit is not fixed this week they will put in for a replacement.

Tech said there was a burn on the power supply and lamp ballast was shot so he replaced both. Nice to have a one day turn around. The warranty expires in August and I'll be waiting until then to purchase the extended warranty. If this happens one more time, I don't see how they couldn't deny me a new TV. It's an obvious lemon, or design flaw.

Tech said there was a burn on the power supply and lamp ballast was shot so he replaced both. Nice to have a one day turn around. The warranty expires in August and I'll be waiting until then to purchase the extended warranty. If this happens one more time, I don't see how they couldn't deny me a new TV. It's an obvious lemon, or design flaw.

That was the same exact problem i had. Except when my power came back on the picture was really bad and tech couldn't fix it within service menu. So tomorrow light engine is being replaced. I haven't had my TV working right since April 30th.

Light engine has been replaced and everything is back to normal for now.

I have a Samsung BDP1500 bluray player hooked up direct to my 67" via HDMI and when i start it up, the little display in the top left shows 1920x1080i. why is it showing 1080i? is there a setting i did not set properly? i am using 1.3 cables.

thanks

I have a Samsung BDP1500 bluray player hooked up direct to my 67" via HDMI and when i start it up, the little display in the top left shows 1920x1080i. why is it showing 1080i? is there a setting i did not set properly? i am using 1.3 cables.
Did you check the resolution setting in the BDP1500's setup menu? If you have that at 1080p, then perhaps it only puts out 1080i until you start a movie.

The "i" should disappear (it shows simply "1080x1920" for progressive) on the TV when you start a movie. And actually, some BR movies I've seen have a 1080i menu, which goes to 1080p once the movie starts.

The "i" should disappear (it shows simply "1080x1920" for progressive) on the TV when you start a movie. And actually, some BR movies I've seen have a 1080i menu, which goes to 1080p once the movie starts.

Same here
;)

I was hoping someone could help me with my 67a750.
I have dish network 722 box ran to the set via HDMI. On any HD source the picture is stretched beyond the screen in all directions. For most things it's not too noticible, but tickers or words on the edges are cut off and it's annoying. I've tried adjusting all of the aspect ratios on both the tv and the dish box and can't seem to correct it. Anyone familiar with this?
Thanks.

Try hitting the format button at the bottom left hand side of the dish remote till it say's normal also make sure the tv set's picture size is set to just scan, you can use the p.size button on the tv remote.

Tonight it was just black except for the blinking lights on the front indicating a LED error. I posted and read on this thread before and after I bought this TV and as I said I loved it. Now, having returned I read Samsung isn't in making them anymore. Great :-(
It died exactly 7 days before it's 1 year mark. I'm contacting Samsung although now I don't know what to expect. Well that's not true, I'm expecting a battle because we purchased this model in July of 08, the tv arrived damaged and the dealer was out of stock so we didn't get the replacement till Aug 18,08. I have all documentation, emails, shipping receipts everything but our bill of sale shows July 08. Hopefully they wont put up a battle. Is there any lemon laws for this type of thing?
I am so bummed right now.

Tonight it was just black except for the blinking lights on the front indicating a LED error. I posted and read on this thread before and after I bought this TV and as I said I loved it. Now, having returned I read Samsung isn't in making them anymore. Great :-(
It died exactly 7 days before it's 1 year mark. I'm contacting Samsung although now I don't know what to expect. Well that's not true, I'm expecting a battle because we purchased this model in July of 08, the tv arrived damaged and the dealer was out of stock so we didn't get the replacement till Aug 18,08. I have all documentation, emails, shipping receipts everything but our bill of sale shows July 08. Hopefully they wont put up a battle. Is there any lemon laws for this type of thing?
I am so bummed right now.
Hopefully you registered it online, giving you the free extended warranty. Maybe you still can if you haven't...

I have the opportunity to pick up one of these sets 61" <$1000 refurb. I cant seem to find any to look at though and it's really holding back the purchase. My alternatives are the new Sharp 52" LED/LCD or maybe a Panasonic V10 plasma. Obviously, they're more money... but more of a sure thing.

So, if you guys had $2000 to spend would you still buy the A750 or would you go for a newer LCD or Plasma like the Panasonics, LG, Sharp?

Bear in mind, my viewing area will probably be about 10ft from the screen in an apartment living room.

I have the opportunity to pick up one of these sets 61" <$1000 refurb. I cant seem to find any to look at though and it's really holding back the purchase. My alternatives are the new Sharp 52" LED/LCD or maybe a Panasonic V10 plasma. Obviously, they're more money... but more of a sure thing.

So, if you guys had $2000 to spend would you still buy the A750 or would you go for a newer LCD or Plasma like the Panasonics, LG, Sharp?

Bear in mind, my viewing area will probably be about 10ft from the screen in an apartment living room.I would not choose any LCD over the A750 DLP series. The former do not have as good a picture. I might consider a Plasma, but they run a lot hotter and draw huge amounts of power. A Plasma will be at least twice as expensive to operate. Depending on the model, it may or may not have a better picture.

And don't forget the viewing distance... he says 10 ft, which really needs quite a large screen to appreciate full 1080. I sit about 8 ft from my 67" which feels perfect.

http://myhometheater.homestead.com/viewingdistancecalculator.html

10ft. is the max (laid back) viewing distance and 7 ft. is probably more like the norm.
I'd jump on a 67" but I just cant find any. Who's dumb idea at Samsung was it to discontinue this product? (sigh) How do the Mitsus stack up to the Samsung??? and which Mitsu would be recommended? Interestingly, the deals on Mitsus are pretty damned good (found a 65" 60735 for $900).

After reading pretty much the highest amount of positive reviews I've ever seen on any TV regarding the A750, I've just gotta have one.

I've read much of others' experience displaying the PC on our Sammy....and thought I'd share my experience with my 50"er...hope this is the right place for the post, hope it's not redundent, hope it's of some help...

My setup is a bit old tech, in that I'm still using a 4x3 CRT monitor...a 22" Compaq that I got at Salvation Army a couple of years ago...it is a beautiful display...a lot of real estate for $10...the colors are virtually identical to my TV to give you some idea how nice it is...

The problem is/was running displays with different aspect ratios and how to fit the PC output to the wide screen without losing space due to overscanning and to have a distortion-free PC display with the correct perspective ...I've resolved some issues, one remains...

The PC is connected to Sammy via DVI output to HDMI input, out from an EVGA 7600GT video card with Nvidia dual display drivers....audio out from the pc gives me sound...

If I use Nvidia "clone" setting, with the standard resolution for a 4x3 monitor the image on the Sammy will be distorted, stretched horizontally in the WIDE PC setting on the TV.

The solution was to change the resolution of the 4x3 Compaq to a resolution appropriate for the Sammy's 16x9. Set for 1360 x 763 the perspective on the TV is now correct, filling the screen edge to edge, with no overscan and
with only an inch of unused space at each border between the displayed image and the TV frame

The only problem remaining unsolved is that the 1360 x 763 setting is too narrow for the 4x3 Compaq display....that perspective on the 4x3 monitor is distorted/stretched VERTICALLY...

The distortion is not a problem if I run one display at a time each having its own resolution, but running both (in the clone setting) I guess I have to accept that one of the 2 will not have the correct perspective. I'm not too concerned about it...the image on the Sammy is beautiful...I'll even use it for Photoshop...a 50" PC monitor...pretty amazing....

I have had my 67a750 for well over a year now.
I have not checked to see how many hours I have on it in well over 6 months, but last I checked it was like 1900.
I would safely say that I have got at least 5000+ hours on mine, and it looks as good as the day I got it.

I love it and wouldn;t trade it for anything. I get NOTHING but compliments on it too. People always ask Where I got it and how much and WHERE THEY CAN GET ONE TOO.. I and am I now forced to just giggle.

In any case.. All positive results here.

I have not checked to see how many hours I have on it in well over 6 months, but last I checked it was like 1900.

Do you check the hours in the service menu?

Do you check the hours in the service menu?

well yeah thats wut I meant. I checked my hours in the SM over 6 months ago, but not lately. I dont feel like having all my settings erased at the moment.

Tonight it was just black except for the blinking lights on the front indicating a LED error. I posted and read on this thread before and after I bought this TV and as I said I loved it. Now, having returned I read Samsung isn't in making them anymore. Great :-(
It died exactly 7 days before it's 1 year mark. I'm contacting Samsung although now I don't know what to expect. Well that's not true, I'm expecting a battle because we purchased this model in July of 08, the tv arrived damaged and the dealer was out of stock so we didn't get the replacement till Aug 18,08. I have all documentation, emails, shipping receipts everything but our bill of sale shows July 08. Hopefully they wont put up a battle. Is there any lemon laws for this type of thing?
I am so bummed right now.

Just wanted to report that all worked out well. Turns out our current TV wasn't even manufactured by our original purchase date so they gave me no troubles. And I had previously registered at the Samsung site -they extend your warranty period by 3 months so it was all covered. The parts that had to be replaced was the light engine and light engine driver. From what I've read those two things are the majority of repairs needed by this TV. I just hope it lasts longer than just another year. The parts themselves only have a 90 day warranty.
The only thing the service person did that I didn't like was he went into the service menu and was changing settings that were changing the picture settings. He stood blocking my view so I couldn't see exactly what he was changing. Then he was thumbing thru the settings in the regular TV picture setting menu. He did this standing 2 feet away from the TV. It was obvious he had no prior knowledge of what good settings are for this set.
When he left I set the TV back to our regular settings that we used prior to the TV repair but he adjusted something on the service menu and it just doesn't look the same to me.
I was considering trying the factory restore option in the service menu to see if it would get rid of changes the repair man made. Am I going to break anything? Or any reason why I shouldn't do this?
Thanks for your help

Just wanted to report that all worked out well. Turns out our current TV wasn't even manufactured by our original purchase date so they gave me no troubles. And I had previously registered at the Samsung site -they extend your warranty period by 3 months so it was all covered. The parts that had to be replaced was the light engine and light engine driver. From what I've read those two things are the majority of repairs needed by this TV. I just hope it lasts longer than just another year. The parts themselves only have a 90 day warranty.
The only thing the service person did that I didn't like was he went into the service menu and was changing settings that were changing the picture settings. He stood blocking my view so I couldn't see exactly what he was changing. Then he was thumbing thru the settings in the regular TV picture setting menu. He did this standing 2 feet away from the TV. It was obvious he had no prior knowledge of what good settings are for this set.
When he left I set the TV back to our regular settings that we used prior to the TV repair but he adjusted something on the service menu and it just doesn't look the same to me.
I was considering trying the factory restore option in the service menu to see if it would get rid of changes the repair man made. Am I going to break anything? Or any reason why I shouldn't do this?
Thanks for your help

Yes, you can do a "Factory Reset" within the Service Menu. See Post #377 in the Official 2008 Samsung HL61A750/HL67A750 LED DLP Settings and Calibration Thread. This "fully" re-sets the unit back to the "In The Box" state. Leave off a couple of minutes, turn on & start over. Be sure you set the TV to "HOME USE" & not Store Demo mode. It even re-sets your DOP (Date of Purchase) to the new date. Did it on mine when a calibrator attempted to do my set, but fell short of knowing what to do so we "fully" re-set it. Painless, at least for me. Good Luck.:)

Is there any way to buy this Baby! Nobody sells it anymore, next to impossible to find. I'm in the Toronto area, I'll even consider a refurbished unit or a used one that nobody wants anymore. My 61" LCOS JVC has some serious light engines problems and anything in the 60" range has a ridiculous price for LCD and Plasma.

Thanks,

I'm still reading through all the post but I just wanted to ask has anybody had problems with the 650 cycling on and off. This just recently started and I haven't changed anything in my system. This tv is made in Feb. 09

That was the same exact problem i had. Except when my power came back on the picture was really bad and tech couldn't fix it within service menu. So tomorrow light engine is being replaced. I haven't had my TV working right since April 30th.

Six months later and my tv just went out again. One month after warranty expired, but i paid for the extended warranty. I'm calling tomorrow for service. Last time it took a whole month to fix.

I had a TV reapir man come to my house today to look at my picture on me samsung 61a750. He entered some special code via my stock samsung remote and brought up these settings I never knew existed. He told me that these settings are for repair people only, and that the averge owner should not know how to access this, because they could play around with the settings and mess stuff up. It showed my purchase date on screen and was wondering how the hell that was possible? My TV is not connected to the internet at all, except for my PS3. Also does anyone else know about this hidden setting and how to access it?

I had a TV reapir man come to my house today to look at my picture on me samsung 61a750. He entered some special code via my stock samsung remote and brought up these settings I never knew existed. He told me that these settings are for repair people only, and that the averge owner should not know how to access this, because they could play around with the settings and mess stuff up. It showed my purchase date on screen and was wondering how the hell that was possible? My TV is not connected to the internet at all, except for my PS3. Also does anyone else know about this hidden setting and how to access it?Most likely it was the manufacture date?

Yes, many know about the settings. They are also used for calibrating the TV.

Most likely it was the manufacture date?

Yes, many know about the settings. They are also used for calibrating the TV.

I found out about the calibration settings after I posted. It's not the manufacturer date I saw, it was my buy date! How the heck would it get on there? That TV is not hooked to the internet, and I never did any firmware upgrades. The very date I purchased the TV is what is displayed under the settings. Real strange..

IIRC, the mfr date isn't the actual date, but either beginning or end of the month. There's no way your TV knows what day you bought it.

But, maybe it knows what day you turned it on :eek:!

Is there any way to buy this Baby! Nobody sells it anymore, next to impossible to find. I'm in the Toronto area, I'll even consider a refurbished unit or a used one that nobody wants anymore. My 61" LCOS JVC has some serious light engines problems and anything in the 60" range has a ridiculous price for LCD and Plasma.

Thanks,

Anyone? I have the same question. I'm kicking myself for holding off on pulling the trigger on this set about a year ago, but I just didn't have the dough, and now that I'm ready, I find it's discontinued and I can't find them anywhere?!?!?

Is Sammy pulling out of the DLP market altogether, or will new models be coming out?

Are the Mitsubishi sets (so much for LED) the only remaining way to go, for inexpensive large screens?

Samsung isn't pulling out of DLP, they already pulled out. Expect DLP to be confined the the projector market now. I doubt Samsung or anyone else will return to DLPs for the RPTV market. They are too hard of a sell to the general consumer market, where flat panels rule. It's too bad because I think my 67A750 has a far superior picture to my Sammy 1080p LCD.

Its been a while since I've posted in this thread but I had to come update everyone on my 50A650. I received it as a warranty replacement for my old HLP4663. Things have been good for almost a year and a half until yesterday. I walked into the kitchen to load up on some snacks and came back to a blank screen. I could see the lights blinking on the front and heard the TV cycling on and off. I knew this wouldn't be good as this had happened to my first DLP. Stupid me never got the warranty for the new TV when I got it replaced so I had to make the begging phone call to Samsung. The first level of customer service said they couldn't do anything but gave me the number for ECR. I called ECR and after pleading, begging and proving how much of a Samsung freak I am (4 total TV's, 3 cell phones, 2 CRT monitors, 1 LCD monitor and 2 home theater systems) they offered me a one time courtesy repair. Hopefully this problem is only a lamp and nothing worse than the Light Engine failure that I had before. I'll keep updated here when I get info from the service company.

Guys I am thinking about selling my hl67a750 it works great but I need money to pay my bills so if anyone is interested in buying from me then email me at trunks9_us@yahoo.com

I will sell but only if the price is right.

I live in college station TX

Soooooo.... to revive this thread a bit.

I still loooooooove my 67A750 - it's fantastic.

With all the hubbub over 3d BluRay at CES... and the supposed "future proof" 3d support in these sets... but with the HDMI 1.4 requirement for full-resolution 1080p 3D.... where does that leave us?

Soooooo.... to revive this thread a bit.

I still loooooooove my 67A750 - it's fantastic.

With all the hubbub over 3d BluRay at CES... and the supposed "future proof" 3d support in these sets... but with the HDMI 1.4 requirement for full-resolution 1080p 3D.... where does that leave us?

With 3D that is 1080i for each eye. if it is implemented for the Samsungs.

Soooooo.... to revive this thread a bit.

I still loooooooove my 67A750 - it's fantastic.

With all the hubbub over 3d BluRay at CES... and the supposed "future proof" 3d support in these sets... but with the HDMI 1.4 requirement for full-resolution 1080p 3D.... where does that leave us?

I will 2nd that. I also still love my now 14 months old 67A750. Not one complaint to speak of.

I have the 67A750, which I've been very happy with for the 18 months I've had it.
We've had a baby since then, who's now a toddler, and loves to press the power button to turn off the TV while we're watching it. He also loves pressing the control buttons, conveniently placed at the lower left of the TV.

Does anyone know any way to disable these buttons? We only use the remote control to turn on/off the TV, and to change sources, so we don't need the buttons.

My apologies if this is listed elsewhere in the forums. I've done a Google search, and no luck.
Thanks for any help! :)

I have the 67A750, which I've been very happy with for the 18 months I've had it.
We've had a baby since then, who's now a toddler, and loves to press the power button to turn off the TV while we're watching it. He also loves pressing the control buttons, conveniently placed at the lower left of the TV.

Does anyone know any way to disable these buttons? We only use the remote control to turn on/off the TV, and to change sources, so we don't need the buttons.

My apologies if this is listed elsewhere in the forums. I've done a Google search, and no luck.
Thanks for any help! :)

You would have to take the bottom rear cover off, and disconnect the cables that go to the controls. Don't know if the TV will have issues with it though.

I have the 67A750, which I've been very happy with for the 18 months I've had it.
We've had a baby since then, who's now a toddler, and loves to press the power button to turn off the TV while we're watching it. He also loves pressing the control buttons, conveniently placed at the lower left of the TV.

Does anyone know any way to disable these buttons? We only use the remote control to turn on/off the TV, and to change sources, so we don't need the buttons.

Thanks for any help! :)

Probably too simplistic...but why not just tape a plastic cover over the buttons?

I really like my HL61A750 DLP, but my BIGGEST complaint is that the internal speakers absolutely suck. The output wattage is too low as well.

Anyways, my wife and her friend got carried away and turned up the TV volume to past 75% and blew the speakers. They work but crackle when turned up past "24".

Does anyone have any idea what size speakers I can replace the stock ones with?

I really like my HL61A750 DLP, but my BIGGEST complaint is that the internal speakers absolutely suck. The output wattage is too low as well.

Anyways, my wife and her friend got carried away and turned up the TV volume to past 75% and blew the speakers. They work but crackle when turned up past "24".

Does anyone have any idea what size speakers I can replace the stock ones with?
I would buy a set of powered speakers (like for for a computer system) and run them from the audio out on the back panel. That will likely be a lot cheaper than replacing the internal speakers.

Race,

I was considering that but I'm trying to avoid having to use another remote control just for the volume. Not sure if the TV remote can be programmed for an outboard amplifier. Plus, I'm a little anal about things working on my equipment. I was thinking of getting a better speaker that would fit, which would handle more wattage, and (hopefully) have a bit more in the low end.

Race,

I was considering that but I'm trying to avoid having to use another remote control just for the volume. Not sure if the TV remote can be programmed for an outboard amplifier. Plus, I'm a little anal about things working on my equipment. I was thinking of getting a better speaker that would fit, which would handle more wattage, and (hopefully) have a bit more in the low end.
I haven't tried it myself, but I think the RCA audio outs from the TV are variable. That means if you connect a powered computer speaker system and set an initial level, you can control volume from the TV remote.

Also, buying replacement internal speakers that handle more power may not help you at all. If you drive the TV's weak amp into clipping distortion that may destroy the new speakers as well.

I haven't tried it myself, but I think the RCA audio outs from the TV are variable. That means if you connect a powered computer speaker system and set an initial level, you can control volume from the TV remote. . .

No they are not variable. Which has to be the dumbest thing I have ever seen. Every new HDTV that I have, other than this one, they are variable. Which has kept me from putting computer speakers on it for stand alone listening. All my other sets are hooked up via TOS to sound systems as this one is too. But I don't always want a full blown sound system running. I'm hoping that Samsung can and will fix this via a firmware update. I have submitted a request for this feature. But as I have seen lately, once they discontinue your model, that's it.

P.S.
Audio out to computer speakers sounds great, but . . . no primary control.

That is dumb that Samsung didn't make the audio outs variable, or at least make it a choice in the setup menu.

That is dumb that Samsung didn't make the audio outs variable, or at least make it a choice in the setup menu.

Even my 20 year old 35" Mitsubishi CRT has on screen set up to switch between the internal and external speakers with jacks on the back to hook speakers (JBL 4311 Studio Monitors) directly to the set, no amp needed. With its 10 watt on board amp, common to this day, it sounded great and could get very loud. My 25 year old Toshiba Flat Black Stripe, first stereo TV made, had the same except for a manual switch on the back to select whichever. But the little speakers on the Toshiba were great though.

I guess that they expect that if we are going with a screens this large, that it will part of a halfway decent media system and left the on board speakers as an obligation.

I am in my second year of a 5 year warranty. The second the warranty is up I will install terminals and a switch for external speakers. That is if this unit doesn't die and get replaced by a newer model under warranty.

One other question:

. . . and the discontinuation of DLP, . . .

Who says that DLPs are on their way out? It was Plasmas that I read many many articles on that were on their way out. Although it looks like they got a reprieve. The DLP platform is what is being used in projectors in movie theaters. And with the Sammy LED, Mitsubishi LaserVue series and Texas Instruments new chips that keep popping up, I don't think DLP is going anywhere any time soon.

I agree that Samsung dropped the ball big time on not making variable sound output a feature.

External speaker jacks are a good idea. I might look into this!

Who says that DLPs are on their way out? It was Plasmas that I read many many articles on that were on their way out. Although it looks like they got a reprieve. The DLP platform is what is being used in projectors in movie theaters. And with the Sammy LED, Mitsubishi LaserVue series and Texas Instruments new chips that keep popping up, I don't think DLP is going anywhere any time soon.

Samsung got out of RP DLP a while ago. Except for Mitsubishi, RP DLP is dead. But I expect FP DLP to be around for a long time.

Although I do wish that Ssamsung had stayed in the RP DLP market. They would have at least a 72" RP LED DLP by now and I would have been able to trade up from my Sammy 67" LED DLP.

But I guess with LCD sets coming out finally at a decent size of 72" at a decent price, my next set will be LCD. Although I'll wait until 2011 to see if they go larger than 72" by then.

I would be very surprised to see Sammy, or anyone, get back into the RPTV DLP market. Their marketing focus these days is for thinner and thinner, and RP DLP doesn't fit that mold.

If your 67 inch is not fixable, Samsung will exchange it for a 55 inch lcd non led. For 800 dollars you can upgrade to the LED model. Some of you this may be acceptable, but to me it is not. Most of us purchased 67 inch for the size and LED and samsung gives you less size and no led. Go figure. I have spent over 7 months on the phone with them and still that is all they give you. BBB complaint and still they think that is comparable. What do you all think? Do you want less size and no led just for an lcd?

If your 67 inch is not fixable, Samsung will exchange it for a 55 inch lcd non led. For 800 dollars you can upgrade to the LED model. Some of you this may be acceptable, but to me it is not. Most of us purchased 67 inch for the size and LED and samsung gives you less size and no led. Go figure. I have spent over 7 months on the phone with them and still that is all they give you. BBB complaint and still they think that is comparable. What do you all think? Do you want less size and no led just for an lcd?


Try negotiating for a Plasma - they are cheaper and have a better picture quality.

Try negotiating for a Plasma - they are cheaper and have a better picture quality.

Plasma is not always an option. For me, I have the tv on a stand, not the wall, and I have it directly in front of me at my sitting height, and we watch tv in a lit room, not dark, and the problem this whole scenario creates is that a plasma tv will have terrible relflections. I will be sitting there looking at myself and my wife and the couch and the lights in the tv, and no way is that a pleasureable experience, particularly during dark scenes on the tv. For me, plasma is not an option due to this. I dont think Samsung is being fair at all in dealing with the problems with these sets which they designed into them with poor engineering.

If your 67 inch is not fixable, Samsung will exchange it for a 55 inch lcd non led. For 800 dollars . . .

This is what made the third party extended warranty mandatory for me. Only because I did not know of the Samsung extended warranty that was a bit more expensive, but did the same thing. I'm in my 1st year of 4 and figured that if anything went wrong I'd be covered. Of which when I last checked with the warranty company I would get the closest thing that they have on the market to what I have, which would mean at this point and time a new 2010 LED DLP model. Although, Samsung has not released them yet. They do the worst job of product representation.

This is what made the third party extended warranty mandatory for me. I'm in my 1st year of 4 and figured that if anything went wrong I'd be covered. Of which when I last checked with the warranty company I would get the closest thing that they have on the market to what I have, which would mean at this point and time a new 2010 LED DLP model. Although, Samsung has not released them yet. They do the worst job of product representation.And they won't be releasing them either, so for you a replacement would mean a non-DLP model. Samsung got out of the DLP TV market after this 2008 model. Have you seen an announcement for a new line of DLPs? I certainly haven't heard of anything.

And they won't be releasing them either, so for you a replacement would mean a non-DLP model. Samsung got out of the DLP TV market after this 2008 model. Have you seen an announcement for a new line of DLPs? I certainly haven't heard of anything.

As per my conversation with Samsung last week, as a result of this same comment elsewhere, there is and will be released a 2010 DLP model series. And they profess that they are indeed still be in the DLP business. I suspect a hold for a "new" 3D technology to be incorporated. My 2008 has 3D and the 2009 LED DLPs do too.

UPDATE:
Just got off the phone with Samsung U.S. and they will be releasing a new line of LED DLP sets at the end of the month.

As per my conversation with Samsung last week, as a result of this same comment elsewhere, there is and will be released a 2010 DLP model series. And they profess that they are indeed still be in the DLP business. I suspect a hold for a "new" 3D technology to be incorporated. My 2008 has 3D and the 2009 LED DLPs do too.

UPDATE:
Just got off the phone with Samsung U.S. and they will be releasing a new line of LED DLP sets at the end of the month.Who did you talk to at Samsung? Customer support, or do you have some inside line? If the former I certainly will put about zero stock in that.

I'll believe it when I see at least a press release.

Also: There are no 2009 Samsung DLPs, LED or otherwise. The last models made were the 2008 line (like the HL67A750 I have), and they stopped being available -- for the most part -- a few months into 09.