Below is an excerpt (& link to the full text) from an article, , DLP DarkChip4 Technology-First Impression. It's from Audioholics 9/19/07. I think the author's inclusion of the words, "incremental", "inflated", and "hardly mind blowing" are key to the DC4 performance and description.

Out of all the discussion, hyped expectations, guessing, and everything else that most of us (incl. me) have been doing, I think this author's findings best describe DC4, "no big improvement" and "no big deal". If the Sammy A750 models have DC4 or not still remains to be seen, but given this author's review, it makes sense about some of the reports that members have been making here about the A750's performance. I think owners of the A750 would be better spending their time on really evaluating the set's overall performance: build quality, PQ, geometry & bowing issues, user controls, etc., etc.

Cheers-:)

"This is definitely an incremental version rather than a complete upgrade as the visual advances seem minor (the 30% higher contrast ratio seemed a bit inflated based on what we saw - which, while good - was hardly mind-blowingly superior to DarkChip 3 systems we had seen to date."

http://www.audioholics.com/education/display-formats-technology/dlp-darkchip4-technology/?searchterm=dlp

Ok, I was planning on being quicker on giving back to the forum than I have been, but I ended up having company before I even got all my sources hooked up to the HL61A750A1F. (That's the model number from the serial number sticker that CC cut off the box for me--I didn't even have to ask). The main thing that's come up in the last few pages of this thread that I can verify is this set definitely does 1080p over component--I didn't run into the glitchy issue another forum poster ran into when trying 1080p over component with an Xbox 360--it looks stunning.

I did go into the service menu briefly and if no one beats me to it I will try to post as many pictures as I can as soon as the light is right, unfortunately I have a pretty busy weekend planned that won't be in front of the TV much until at least tomorrow (Sunday). There was no obvious way for me to tell what version of the DMD was from what I went through on the service menus. The picture has already been posted that probably gives us as much info as we are going to get but I may be wrong.

BTW, I also did hear the "clicking" that another poster mentioned. But I've only heard it once or twice soon after getting the TV set up. Not sure if it goes away when the set is "warm" or if it was just a "break in" thing.

Goofy limitation (it seems)--according to the manual you can only activate xvYCC if the picture is set to movie mode? I wondered why my Sony HDR-CX7 which is xvYCC (or x.v.Color as Sony calls it) wouldn't let me set that menu setting on the TV last night.

Can only do "Color Tone" (temp) Warm1 and Warm2 in Movie mode also supposedly.

Ok, I was planning on being quicker on giving back to the forum than I have been, but I ended up having company before I even got all my sources hooked up to the HL61A750A1F. (That's the model number from the serial number sticker that CC cut off the box for me--I didn't even have to ask). The main thing that's come up in the last few pages of this thread that I can verify is this set definitely does 1080p over component--I didn't run into the glitchy issue another forum poster ran into when trying 1080p over component with an Xbox 360--it looks stunning.

I did go into the service menu briefly and if no one beats me to it I will try to post as many pictures as I can as soon as the light is right, unfortunately I have a pretty busy weekend planned that won't be in front of the TV much until at least tomorrow (Sunday). There was no obvious way for me to tell what version of the DMD was from what I went through on the service menus. The picture has already been posted that probably gives us as much info as we are going to get but I may be wrong.

BTW, I also did hear the "clicking" that another poster mentioned. But I've only heard it once or twice soon after getting the TV set up. Not sure if it goes away when the set is "warm" or if it was just a "break in" thing.

Thanks Matt!!!
please keep your observations coming. perhaps instead of posting pictures of the service menu entries, it might be easier to just write the entries like another member did in another thread. You could list the SM area name and then under it list the entries it contains.

Example from my 67W:
OPTION:
lamp clear
user reset
lamp life
lamp control

I think if we're going to find a listing for the chip it might be under the main area. In my 67W's SM, the top listing is:
DDP1011(L6), when you access this entry, it lists the type of "light engine" (mine says Zeiss), lamp sync, lamp type, etc.
Thx again,
Eric

Goofy limitation (it seems)--according to the manual you can only activate xvYCC if the picture is set to movie mode? I wondered why my Sony HDR-CX7 which is xvYCC (or x.v.Color as Sony calls it) wouldn't let me set that menu setting on the TV last night.

Can only do "Color Tone" (temp) Warm1 and Warm2 in Movie mode also supposedly.

My HLT6176 did the same thing, ironically my older HLS5087 allowed Warm colors on any mode as well. It also had a 4th option, "custom" which allowed any combination you wanted.

Below is an excerpt (& link to the full text) from an article, , DLP DarkChip4 Technology-First Impression. It's from Audioholics 9/19/07. I think the author's inclusion of the words, "incremental", "inflated", and "hardly mind blowing" are key to the DC4 performance and description.

Out of all the discussion, hyped expectations, guessing, and everything else that most of us (incl. me) have been doing, I think this author's findings best describe DC4, "no big improvement" and "no big deal". If the Sammy A750 models have DC4 or not still remains to be seen, but given this author's review, it makes sense about some of the reports that members have been making here about the A750's performance. I think owners of the A750 would be better spending their time on really evaluating the set's overall performance: build quality, PQ, geometry & bowing issues, user controls, etc., etc.

Cheers-:)

"This is definitely an incremental version rather than a complete upgrade as the visual advances seem minor (the 30% higher contrast ratio seemed a bit inflated based on what we saw - which, while good - was hardly mind-blowingly superior to DarkChip 3 systems we had seen to date."

http://www.audioholics.com/education/display-formats-technology/dlp-darkchip4-technology/?searchterm=dlp


Thanks Erock--That's the article I mentioned in my post on the last page!!

Apparently some want to believe the hype and are unwilling to appreciate the modest improvements that are the reality.

Now show me that 67 incher!! :D

Ok, I was planning on being quicker on giving back to the forum than I have been, but I ended up having company before I even got all my sources hooked up to the HL61A750A1F. (That's the model number from the serial number sticker that CC cut off the box for me--I didn't even have to ask). The main thing that's come up in the last few pages of this thread that I can verify is this set definitely does 1080p over component--I didn't run into the glitchy issue another forum poster ran into when trying 1080p over component with an Xbox 360--it looks stunning.

I did go into the service menu briefly and if no one beats me to it I will try to post as many pictures as I can as soon as the light is right, unfortunately I have a pretty busy weekend planned that won't be in front of the TV much until at least tomorrow (Sunday). There was no obvious way for me to tell what version of the DMD was from what I went through on the service menus. The picture has already been posted that probably gives us as much info as we are going to get but I may be wrong.

BTW, I also did hear the "clicking" that another poster mentioned. But I've only heard it once or twice soon after getting the TV set up. Not sure if it goes away when the set is "warm" or if it was just a "break in" thing.

I got the 750 yesterday and just got around to setting up my Xbox 360. I plugged it into Component 2 and then switched over to 1080p. The Xbox displayed fine and asked if I wanted to keep the setting. I said 'Yes' and then at that point the screen flickered a few times and the display then went out and said 'Mode not supported' or something to that effect. 1080i and 720p work fine but not 1080p.

Turls - how did you connect your Xbox?

I haven't tried it with Component 1 or through my receiver, yet. Those will be my next steps.

Outside of this issue, I am loving the TV.

Disappointed to say it, but if the viewing angle and brightness aren't noticeably improved over the HLT6189S, I'll have to take a pass on this one. Too bad, 'cause I was really looking forward to upgrading. Any more reviews from you early adopters?

Wasn't there a review, posted earlier in this thread, from the only "experts" to actually view a TV with DC4, which stated that the improvement, while impressive on paper, was only very slight in actual viewing.

Sorry, I don't remember the exact source, but I do think it was in this thread.

And let's remember, there are all kinds of ways to measure such specs as CR, watts, horsepower, etc.

Way too much speculation here, not enough facts. :)

I read the same thing, however I remember a year or so back looking at the Toshiba 62mx196 next to the latest Samsung DLP, The toshiba had a listed contrast ratio of 5,000 to 1 and the Samsung 10,000 1 and i could see a difference in the black level (in a side by side setting). I find it hard to believe one couldnt tell the difference between 10,000 to 1 and 100,000 to 1, maybe I just have keen eye, maybe I just wanted to see a difference but i will believe it when I can't see it.:D btw i own a Toshiba 62mx196 and i am thinking of upgrading to a Sammy:) After tweaking the TV with DVE and setting the lamp to low I get a "real world" contrast of around 2,700 to 1, so I am hoping a DC4 inside a Sammy will be a upgrade.

I'm quite cetain these new Sammys will show a real and viewable improvement over previous generations, with or without DC4. I don't think it will be as mind blowing as some numbers on a page would lead us to believe or wish for.

Remember that viewing two sets side by side in a less than optimal viewing environment will not necessarily give you a fair comparison, especially if they're not calibrated.

Also remember that the first generation (5679) Sammy LEDs were judged to be about as good a picture as current tech allows, after being calibrated by one of our resident calibrators here on AVS. That was what, two or three generations ago? These sets, properly set up, should be great.

If you need the widest possible viewing angle, or maybe you watch a lot of daytime TV, and can't darken your room, they may not be for you.

We have not yet reached the Holy Grail...If these sets don't live up to our minimum expectations or requirements, we shouldn't buy them.

As for me, It's time to trade up from my HLN567W, 720P, to a bigger set with 1080P. I have about 8-9 months left on my extended warranty, so I'm probably going to buy one of the 67 inchers, though I may wait to see the Mitsu Laser sets--tho I think they will be premium priced.

We shall see. :)

I got the 750 yesterday and just got around to setting up my Xbox 360. I plugged it into Component 2 and then switched over to 1080p. The Xbox displayed fine and asked if I wanted to keep the setting. I said 'Yes' and then at that point the screen flickered a few times and the display then went out and said 'Mode not supported' or something to that effect. 1080i and 720p work fine but not 1080p.

Turls - how did you connect your Xbox?

I haven't tried it with Component 1 or through my receiver, yet. Those will be my next steps.


Wow, I am sure glad I don't have this issue or I would be wondering what was going on. I have it plugged into Component 1. I have the Wii/PS2 hooked up to Component 2 currently but I will switch them around when I get a chance if its still a question by then. I've tried games that according to the info are doing 1080p. I've also done HD-DVDs through the 360 player and they only did 1080i, but I think that is normal.

More notes--finallly hooked up the HTPC and bumped up res to 1080p. Definite noticable bowing in the bottom right hand corner with the task bar. Not as bad elsewhere. This was the first time I really fooled with moving the bezel. Like others have reported, very flimsy. Night and day difference vs. my HLM/N where you really had to push on it to get slight movement--I can make a ton of picture difference on this one. Actually it may be a "good" thing--I fooled with it long enough to get it straightened out a little. Its still less than 1/4" maybe closer to 1/8" but it is easy to see on a Vista desktop. I am very picky about geometry--in fact I shouldn't even own a DLP I'm so picky--but unless I find more test patterns that convince me otherwise, I think I'll be fine with it. I know I'm coming from a HLM/N, but this thing is just so much nicer so far.

Disappointed to say it, but if the viewing angle and brightness aren't noticeably improved over the HLT6189S, I'll have to take a pass on this one. Too bad, 'cause I was really looking forward to upgrading. Any more reviews from you early adopters?

I've got it in a bright room (early in the morning), and it looked fantastic. I don't see how it can't be brighter than last year's if last year was an issue. I already gave my opinion earlier on viewing angle. Let's put it this way. 4 of us last night playing Rock Band in close proximity to the TV and it looked great. Not the same as straight on, but off-angle both vertically and horizontally, at least as better than my old bulb DLP.

For those considering the 67", am I pushing it to think that a 9' viewing distance is doable? I have an HLP-5063, and, while it seemed so HUGE when I first got it, it's apparently shrunk over the past 4 years. ;)

Turls, from your early posts, I did not think that you were going to purchase the 750. What changed your mind?

Actually, I DO plan on using the set in a brightly lit room during the day...with CNBC on during most of that time. If it can do ok in this environment, all will be good, but that 45 degree viewing angle (total 90) is still a bit bothersome. I would have liked in the neighborhood of 60 degrees off angle. Other opinions?

btw, I'm coming from a regular 36" tube tv....ie....Flintsone era.

For those considering the 67", am I pushing it to think that a 9' viewing distance is doable? I have an HLP-5063, and, while it seemed so HUGE when I first got it, it's apparently shrunk over the past 4 years. ;)

Your question doesn't indicate whether you think 9' is too close or too far away from 67" screen, but the THX recommendation is 7.5'.

finding the service menu is all fine and dandy. Knowing how to interpret the information is something else all together. Posting 50 pictures for each one of the different options under there is quite a pain in the backside.
Here is a layout of the service menu... many of the items are grayed out. Assuming that the formatting holds, the sub items for a main menu item are offset for that item.

Ok... formatting didn't hold... items with + are from the main menu.

+OptionByte
Factory Reset
WB Reset OFF
EEPROM Reset
User Reset
DIGITAL-DMD
LED Clear
LED Life 45Hr
Auto Power ON
Mute Time[RF] 600ms
Watchdog Enable ON
Watchdog Count 0
DEBUG/AV Con. AV Con.
PC Mode Ident Auto
HDMI Hot Plug Enable
HDMI Hot Plug Delay 1500ms
Store Demo OFF
DMD -> DIGITAL
DDP 3D Test
Expert Adj. Off
SUB MICOM DOWN OFF
SSC ON/OFF ON
SSC MRR 1
SSC MFR 4
SSC QLC 3
VISUAL TEST Disable
RS-232 Log Save OFF[/B]DDP3021
H/V-Position H:60/V:31
V-FLIP Normal
H-FLIP Normal
GAMMA [4]OEM
MPC ON
OVERLAP 15%
3D GLS_TRANS 1800
Calibration
Test Pattern(DDP) 0
+CCA(ON)
CCA Control ON
Sensor Status OK
Red-x 705
Red-y 294
Red Y 125.7
Green-x 180
Green-y 739
Green Y 366.6
Blue-x 142
Blue-y 40
Blue-Y 30.5h
Color Sensor Save
WB Spread
[COOL2] DW_X 264
[COOL2] DW_Y 263
[COOL1] DW_X 270
[COOL1] DW_Y 271
[NORMAL] DW_X 282
[NORMAL] DW_Y 285
[WARM1] DW_X 300
[WARM1] DW_Y 310
[WARM2] DW_X 313
[WARM2] DW_Y 329
Max Current RED 240
Max Current GRN 244
Max Current BLU 240
Sens Red-A 2225
Sens Green-B 2229
Sens Blue-C 1247
[TI – COOL2] X 264
[TI – COOL2] Y 263
[TI – COOL1] X 270
[TI – COOl1] Y 271
[TI – NORMAL] X 282
[TI – NORMAL] Y 285
[TI – WARM1] X 300
[TI – WARM1]Y 310
[TI – WARM2]X 311
[TI – WARM2]Y 327
TI Offset Adjust ON
+Cinema CCA
[COOL2] DWhiteX 264
[COOL2] DWhiteY 263
[COOL1] DWhiteX 270
[COOL1] DWhiteY 271
[NORMAL] DWhiteX 282
[NORMAL] DWhiteY 285
[WARM1] DWhiteX 300
[WARM1] DWhiteY 310
[WARM2] DWhiteX 313
[WARM2] DWhiteY 329
+Desaturation (ON)
DeSaturation Control ON
DeSaturation Mode WIDE
[NORMAL] Red-x 660
[NORMAL] Red-y 325
[NORMAL] Green-x 272
[NORMAL] Green-y 645
[NORMAL] Blue-x 148
[NORMAL] Blue-y 55
[NORMAL] Cyan-x 197
[NORMAL] Cyan-y 282
[NORMAL] Magenta-x 280
[NORMAL] Magenta-y 125
[NORMAL] Yellow-x 521
[NORMAL] Yellow-y 672
[WIDE] Red-x 672
[WIDE] Red-y 318
[WIDE] Green-x 210
[WIDE] Green-y 700
[WIDE] Blue-x 140
[WIDE] Blue-y 45
[WIDE] Cyan-x 166
[WIDE] Cyan-y 238
[WIDE] Magenta-x 282
[WIDE] Magenta-y 115
[WIDE] Yellow-x 422
[WIDE] Yellow-y 521
[SRGB] Red-x 640
[SRGB] Red-y 330
[SRGB] Green-x 300
[SRGB] Green-y 600
[SRGB] Blue-x 150
[SRGB] Blue-y 60
[SRGB] Cyan-x 222
[SRGB] Cyan-y 339
[SRGB] Magenta-x 300
[SRGB] Magenta-y 127
[SRGB] Yellow-x 419
[SRGB] Yellow-y 505
+SP Acturator
Actu Gain 38
Actu On/Off ON
DB Gain 1
DB On/Off On
DB BP weight 0%
DB Aperture ….
SB Gain ….
+WB
P.MODE SELECT Dynamic
Sub Brightness 128
R_Offset 512
G_Offset 512
B_Offset 517
Sub Contrast 128
R_Gain 512
G_Gain 512
B_Gain 512
+EPA Standard
Standard Contrast 95
Standard Brightness 45
Standard Sharpness 40
Standard Color 50
Standard Tint 50
Standard Blacklight ….
+BHP_VDEC
?
+MST336C
RED CUTOFF …..
GREEN CUTOFF ….
BLUE CUTOFF ….
PHASE ….
RED GAIN ….
GREEN GAIN ….
BLUE GAIN ….
SOGMID_CTRL ….
SEP_THR ….
PRECST ….
POSTCST ….
ADC_BWR ….
ADC_BWG ….
ADC_BWB ….
SOG_BW ….
D_R_offset ….
D_G_offset ….
D_B_offset ….
D_CALDLYC ….
D_SMPDLY ….
D_SMPDURC ….
CAL_CTRL0 ….
+BHP_DP
?
+Sharpness
sharp75 75
Pre_GainH1 2
Pre_GainH2 4
Pre_GainV1 3
Pre_GainV2 3
Post_GainH1 4
Post_GainH2 9
Post_GainH3 3
Post_GainV1 4
Post_GainV2 3
CTI_Gain 15
Pre_LTIH 2
Pre_LTIV 2
Post_LTIH 2
Post_LTIV 2
CDataCoring 0
Sub Color 57
Film_32_Mode 1
File_22_Mode 1
+FBE3
?
+LNA+
?
+ADC Result[Default]
1st_AV_Gain 131
1st_AV_Offset 1
1st_Comp_Gain 200
1st_Comp_Offset 96
1st_PC_R_Gain 174
1st_PC_G_Gain 174
1st_PC_B_Gain 174
1st_PC_R_Offset 126
1st_PC_G_Offsett 127 <-oops, looks like a typo
1st_PC_B_Offset 126
2nd_PC_R_Gain 135
2nd_PC_G_Gain 135
2nd_PC_B_Gain 135
2nd_PC_R_Offset 67
2nd_PC_G_Offsett 67
2nd_PC_B_Offset 67
+Expert Settings
?
+Expert D-Settings
?
+Expert Gray Scale
?
+Expert C-Scale
?
+Expert Others
?
+SOUND
Delay_ATV 70
Delay_DTV 60
Spdif_Delay OFF
AMP Volume 41
Limitter_Attact 9
Limitter_Release 15
Post_Scale 94
Carrier Mute ON
Hi-Deviation OFF
Speaker_EQ ON
SAP Low 9
SAP High 24
+EDID
EDID ON/OFF OFF
ALL EDID Success
PC EDID Success
HDMI1 EDID Success
HDMI2 EDID Success
HDMI3 EDID Success
EDID HDMI1 Ver HDMI 1.3
+ESP
Dynamic Global OnOff OFF
Dynamic Local OnOff OFF
Dynamic Skin OnOff OFF
Dynamic Cont Gain 0
Dynamic Satu OFF
Dynamic Satu Gain 128
Sharp Picture ON
VLUT TBD0
Sharp Filter HD High
Sharp Picture Gain 90
+CHECKSUM 0x0000
+SERVICE
H/V-Position H:60/V:31
User Reset
CCA Control ON
DMD -> DIGITAL
DIGITAL -> DMD
LED Life 45Hr
LED Clear
Mute Time[RF] 600ms
Actu Gain 38
VISUAL TEST Disable
+View Log
Select Log Type DEFECT
VIEW LOG
DELETE LOG
+Font Data Viewer

Apparently the DC4 does NOT automatically mean high contrast ratio. Here's a link to the new infocus IN83 using the DC4.
http://www.infocus.com/~/media/library/datasheet/English/infocus_IN83_datasheet_en%20pdf.ashx

The question I have is: How did TI achieve a 500,000:1 contrast ratio? As demonstated at CES.

I would conclude the A750 may or may not have the DC4. :) :)

I visited my local Fairfax, VA CC again yesterday before deciding to buy or not. I did not like contrast level even after changing brightness to 100 picture looks good but not as I expected. Contrast was already 100.
If your viewing distance is less than 6 feet, you see LEDs changing colors like its raining. Not sure what technical term is used for this.
HD-DVD player was palying Transformers movie and there was night scene which did not look very good if I compare Sony 60A2000 with stadard DVD with upconverting DVD player 1080p mode.

I think my expectations were little higher. I am sure to skip this model. Hope to find something better soon but not this.:(

Turls, from your early posts, I did not think that you were going to purchase the 750. What changed your mind?

I looked at the reported MSRP, and then at what it actually was when it came out (plus the coupon and financing terms which I didn't expect to have on a new model), and since it was only less than $200 over Black Friday pricing on last year's 61" LED DLP, it was time to go. I've had to do some goofy service menu adjustments to keep my HLM507W (with N innards) viable and it has done some other flaky stuff it has always recovered from. My extended warranty expired on it this month and I'm tired of the bulb game.

In short, I couldn't talk myself out a basically impulse buy ;)

I visited my local Fairfax, VA CC again yesterday before deciding to buy or not. I did not like contrast level even after changing brightness to 100 picture looks good but not as I expected. Contrast was already 100.
If your viewing distance is less than 6 feet, you see LEDs changing colors like its raining. Not sure what technical term is used for this.
HD-DVD player was palying Transformers movie and there was night scene which did not look very good if I compare Sony 60A2000 with stadard DVD with upconverting DVD player 1080p mode.

I think my expectations were little higher. I am sure to skip this model. Hope to find something better soon but not this.:(

The effect you described is called Silk Screen (SSE) and is found in all RPTVs to various degrees. If it isn't visible beyond 6', that is pretty good. My RP has SSE at pretty much any viewing distance.

And if contrast and brightness are both at 100% the SSE should be at its maximum and blacks will look horrible. Since it is on display at a big box store I am sure it is also set to Vivid (torch) mode. This is common at stores because for some ungodly reason they try to make the RPTVs look like LCDs. By cranking up the light you also replace your blacks with greys.

I should have just stayed out of the service menu. Now I'm seeing convergence errors on the test patterns. Geometry issue in the bottom right hand corner I may be able to deal with, convergence issues on a 1080p TV maybe not. Any hope or back to the store?

I should have just stayed out of the service menu. Now I'm seeing convergence errors on the test patterns. Geometry issue in the bottom right hand corner I may be able to deal with, convergence issues on a 1080p TV maybe not. Any hope or back to the store?

ugh that sucks, if you didnt make any changes in the menu nothing should have changed......right?:confused:

ugh that sucks, if you didnt make any changes in the menu nothing should have changed......right?:confused:

I meant ignorance is bliss--I would have found out eventually, I was just kidding about staying out of the service menu. I would imagine that all those items that are greyed out (from the previous excellent post) become available if you enable expert mode--but I'm too chicken to do that. If there still isn't ways to adjust geometry and convergence in quadrants on DLP RP, there sure should be with the lightweight cabinet and the inconsistency in manufacturing :(

...if you didnt make any changes in the menu nothing should have changed......right?:confused:
Actually, on my HLP4674, every time I enter the service menu, all of the things I can change in the normal user menus get reset back to their factory defaults. It's a pain to restore brightness, contrast, color, and tint, not to mention picture mode, color temp, and all the things I want off like sharpness, DNiE, etc. Then I get to restore the settings again for each of the other inputs.

It wouldn't surprise me if the new sets behave the same way.

The effect you described is called Silk Screen (SSE) and is found in all RPTVs to various degrees. If it isn't visible beyond 6', that is pretty good. My RP has SSE at pretty much any viewing distance.

And if contrast and brightness are both at 100% the SSE should be at its maximum and blacks will look horrible. Since it is on display at a big box store I am sure it is also set to Vivid (torch) mode. This is common at stores because for some ungodly reason they try to make the RPTVs look like LCDs. By cranking up the light you also replace your blacks with greys.

Thanks.
But why Sony 60a2000 does not have same effect. I have seen this Sony TV long enough. Also, after reducing brighness to 80, you can see this effect. Is it quality of TV or settings in TV? Hope to get some more insight.
Actually open box Sony 60a3000 (my preferred model ) does not have this effect.
Thanks:)

Turls, I know this is off topic but how many hours were on your HLM/N? I am sitting on about 25000 with 3 bulbs and one new colorwheel. I too am tired of the bulb game and the energy it takes to run it since my tv stays on about 11 hours a day...

I am very picky about geometry--in fact I shouldn't even own a DLP I'm so picky--but unless I find more test patterns that convince me otherwise, I think I'll be fine with it. I know I'm coming from a HLM/N, but this thing is just so much nicer so far.

Well, that's good to hear. I have an HLN617, so it's good to know that you think this set is a good improvement over it. Too bad about the flimsy bezel though, I guess there has been some thrift engineering over the years.

Not to sound too terribly ignorant, but is the SSE the same thing as "screen door effect", which as it sounds, looks like you're looking thru a screen door? Screen door effect is even visible in a lot of theaters.

Actually, on my HLP4674, every time I enter the service menu, all of the things I can change in the normal user menus get reset back to their factory defaults. It's a pain to restore brightness, contrast, color, and tint, not to mention picture mode, color temp, and all the things I want off like sharpness, DNiE, etc. Then I get to restore the settings again for each of the other inputs.

It wouldn't surprise me if the new sets behave the same way.
They do... thanks for the tip. I hadn't noticed.

Seen another 61A750 today at CC , now i know this TV build quality isnt what i had hoped.

I have a 3 yr old Samy that is MUCH sturdier than these. So much for improvement from last years cabinet.

Your question doesn't indicate whether you think 9' is too close or too far away from 67" screen, but the THX recommendation is 7.5'.

9' would be the maximum viewing distance possible in my living room, and I was concerned the 67" screen would be too big. Sorry for the confusion, and thanks for the THX info.

So basically we report no improvement in the cabinet and the same geometry issues as last year with no confimation that anything was improved.

So far I have not seen anything that doesnt suggets this is a HLT6189 with a new name.

Nice:rolleyes:

So basically we report no improvement in the cabinet and the same geometry issues as last year with no confimation that anything was improved.

So far I have not seen anything that doesnt suggets this is a HLT6189 with a new name.

Nice:rolleyes:


Hey now, they did move the "annoying light" from underneath the power button to a blue LED that CIRCLES it.

:)

Hey gang,

I am hoping that I can get some expert advice before buying a new HDTV. I was looking into JVC's HD-ILA 70" model and contacted my local A/V shop. He informed me that he couldn't get it in but would sell me SONY's 70" SXRD XBR2 along with a SU-SX10 (made specifically for Qualia 006 as an open box item the package would cost me $2800.00 plus taxes.

The set may or may not need a lamp replacement within a year and they may or may not have the replacement lamp it came with. In addition to that the box may be missing so toting a mammoth 70" in a pickup without a box does not appeal to me. I am also weighing waiting for Samsung's HL67A750 which uses LED DLP and is said to not need lamp replacement, this TV is set to hit streets in June of '08 and consumes less energy, and seems like a quality set.

Here is my dilemma:

Do i pull the trigger on the XBR2 (has been my dream TV since '06)?
Do I wait to see the build quality of Samsung's 67" (has known to be shotty)
Do I hold out to see Mitsubishi's 73" Laser DLP?

I guess I am wondering really if the XBR2 has stood the test of time as emerging technologies have been introduced. Is the XBR2 still in the opinion of Dave K (CNET) the best HDTV for the $$$$??

Thanks in advance for the help I am flying blind here and would love to hear how LED DLP stacks up to LCoS. Has Samsung stepped up in designing tougher cabinets??

Does the a650 and a750 have 10 bit, deep color, and xv color support?

Should I get this or look for a discontinued sony a3000. Sad that even though sony got out of the game they still have every single feature one would want.

Hey gang,

I am hoping that I can get some expert advice before buying a new HDTV. I was looking into JVC's HD-ILA 70" model and contacted my local A/V shop. He informed me that he couldn't get it in but would sell me SONY's 70" SXRD XBR2 along with a SU-SX10 (made specifically for Qualia 006 as an open box item the package would cost me $2800.00 plus taxes.

The set may or may not need a lamp replacement within a year and they may or may not have the replacement lamp it came with. In addition to that the box may be missing so toting a mammoth 70" in a pickup without a box does not appeal to me. I am also weighing waiting for Samsung's HL67A750 which uses LED DLP and is said to not need lamp replacement, this TV is set to hit streets in June of '08 and consumes less energy, and seems like a quality set.

Here is my dilemma:

Do i pull the trigger on the XBR2 (has been my dream TV since '06)?
Do I wait to see the build quality of Samsung's 67" (has known to be shotty)
Do I hold out to see Mitsubishi's 73" Laser DLP?

I guess I am wondering really if the XBR2 has stood the test of time as emerging technologies have been introduced. Is the XBR2 still in the opinion of Dave K (CNET) the best HDTV for the $$$$??

Thanks in advance for the help I am flying blind here and would love to hear how LED DLP stacks up to LCoS. Has Samsung stepped up in designing tougher cabinets??

I cannot see the build quality being any different from the 67 to the 61. With that said, in MY opinion, the casing is still too flexible than what I would like. This is coming from a current HLT6187S owner.

I am anxious to see the new Mitsu line up(not laser) to compare to the "new" samsungs.

Thanks Skellogg,

Did you compare your HLT6187S to either Sony's A3000 or KDS lineup when making your purchase?? How did they fair in comparison to your present set. The lamp life, and reduced power usage are great selling points for the average consumer, LED DLP seems to be a great buy, but is it better than the options and features of Sony's LCoS equipped sets?

Any sightings or word of release dates in Canada? Can't seem to find a retailer, would like to see one of these LED DLP's. I'm very happy with my HLP4663, but a bigger screen would be nice....

Any sightings or word of release dates in Canada? Can't seem to find a retailer, would like to see one of these LED DLP's...

Me too. My small high-end AV store I have been dealing with won't be bringing them in. Who have you asked?

I picked up a HL61A750 today and was wondering if anyone as seen little black flakes behind the screen. I don't think they are bad pixels as their shape isn't square and they vary in size (I have seen plenty of bad pixels with front projectors).

It appears to be almost little pieces of the cabinet that has fallen behind the screen. There are roughly three or four of various sizes and can't really be seen from viewing distant outside of perhaps really staring at a solid gray screen.

Just wondering if it's a known issue. Outside of this issue the set appears to be OK although I haven't played enough to have much of an opinion. By the way I picked it up at Best Buy with their Reward Zone discount (10% or 12%).

Hey now, they did move the "annoying light" from underneath the power button to a blue LED that CIRCLES it.

:)You can turn that light off... first thing I looked for!

Turls, I know this is off topic but how many hours were on your HLM/N? I am sitting on about 25000 with 3 bulbs and one new colorwheel. I too am tired of the bulb game and the energy it takes to run it since my tv stays on about 11 hours a day...

Not real sure since I reset the timer every time, probably between 15 and 20000, I was on my 4th bulb I think. I had to get a colorwheel motor replaced under warranty as well. I had one bulb that I didn't get too many hours on (4K?). [OT rant on]Bulbs quite simply suck. They're priced like printer ink, its a crap shoot how many hours you get, the picture changes during the life of the bulb, and since I felt I always had to keep a spare, I was always concerned I would get a DOA when I finally put the spare one in. I'm sure there are other disadvantages I'm missing[OT rant off].

You can turn that light off... first thing I looked for!

You can also set it to be on when the set is off (and off when it is on of course). . . which I am liking so far.

I picked up a HL61A750 today and was wondering if anyone as seen little black flakes behind the screen. I don't think they are bad pixels as their shape isn't square and they vary in size (I have seen plenty of bad pixels with front projectors).


Easy way to tell, push the screen in slightly, and if they move differently than the picture, it is dirt and not bad mirrors. I don't have any of those on mine.

Does the a650 and a750 have 10 bit, deep color, and xv color support?

Aren't deep color and "xv color" support the same thing? In any case, it has deep color, but only in "movie" mode.

So basically we report no improvement in the cabinet and the same geometry issues as last year with no confimation that anything was improved.

So far I have not seen anything that doesnt suggets this is a HLT6189 with a new name.


Now wait a minute--they dropped bluetooth ;)

Other than that, I never saw a HLT6189 ever discounted because for some reason Sammy decided last year to cripple the model big box stores sold--at least they aren't doing that this year, and if it is a HLT6189 at least it is a much cheaper one. And I still say the angles and brightness is better.

Easy way to tell, push the screen in slightly, and if they move differently than the picture, it is dirt and not bad mirrors. I don't have any of those on mine.A good suggestion! They don't move with the image so it must be dirt. I also just read in the manual if you face the TV front down dirt may become attached to the screen... so I guess it's not unheard of.

When they loaded it in the truck their techie said it was OK to face the back down so if I decide it's a problem it's going to be theirs. :)

So basically we report no improvement in the cabinet and the same geometry issues as last year with no confimation that anything was improved.

So far I have not seen anything that doesnt suggets this is a HLT6189 with a new name.

Nice:rolleyes:

Why don't you go over to the SED thread and whine over there?

You have no factual basis for all your complaining. What television company do you work for?

You just can't wait for these sets to suck. Most of us would like them to be great sets, but all you do in your posts is take unreliable anecdotal evidence and condemn them.

Go piss in somebody else's cornflakes.

/rant.

I visited my local Fairfax, VA CC again yesterday before deciding to buy or not. I did not like contrast level even after changing brightness to 100 picture looks good but not as I expected. Contrast was already 100.
If your viewing distance is less than 6 feet, you see LEDs changing colors like its raining. Not sure what technical term is used for this.
HD-DVD player was palying Transformers movie and there was night scene which did not look very good if I compare Sony 60A2000 with stadard DVD with upconverting DVD player 1080p mode.

I think my expectations were little higher. I am sure to skip this model. Hope to find something better soon but not this.:(


So you think Ubertorch is the best setting to judge contrast by?

You can get to the test patterns by going to the DDP3021 menu, and choosing Test Pattern (DDP). You can then right arrow through various test patterns.

The following is the close up of the right bottom corner showing the approximately 1/8" difference in geometry between the bottom left corner and bottom right corner. The problem is, as you can probably see, most of the difference occurs right near the edge so it isn't gradual enough to completely ignore.

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Ok, this one is a bigger deal to me and the one you would think Sammy would have some sort of fix a field tech could take care of. They do toot their horn about how single chip DLP doesn't have to worry about convergence issues like multi-chip. Well, if your image is going to look like a CRT that needs to be calibrated, what's the point of making that claim.

The first picture is from the top middle where the set looks the best. The second picture is from the upper right hand corner where there is extra blurriness, basically an extra line of pixels, on both the left and right.

In my case, since I am running a HTPC to this, and I was planning on doing this at 1080p, and I can notice blurrines in text about 12 feet away, this may be a deal killer for me if Sammy can't resolve it with a service menu setting or a field tech. I still like the set (so far), and the problem with DLP from my experience is that if I try to swap, the new set may have its own set of issues.

If Sammy is unresponsive (and says it is in spec or some such nonsense which may have flown at 720p but not 1080p) I figure since CC gave me free delivery, they would bring me another one, and this time I would go straight to these patterns.

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106145

Thanks Skellogg,

Did you compare your HLT6187S to either Sony's A3000 or KDS lineup when making your purchase?? How did they fair in comparison to your present set. The lamp life, and reduced power usage are great selling points for the average consumer, LED DLP seems to be a great buy, but is it better than the options and features of Sony's LCoS equipped sets?

I did compare te 87s to the sony a3000 extensively. My dad actually owns the Mitsu 657 and to me it also has a nice picture. I set it up for him at his house and was impressed. It did have a pincusion problem with geometry but horizontal lines are dead straight. I work around these things all day, so needless to say, I do get some viewing time in.

In MY opinion, the 87s handled motion a bit better than the sony unit. That is just what I observed. The build quality hands down had to go to sony though. I also own a panasonic plasma, but I wanted something larger than my 50PZ77U so that is why I decided on a RPTV. I absoluetely love the panasonic, but one 58+ size cost some serious coin. I could swap my 87s out for the 750 now if i wanted to, but waiting to see the 08 mitsu line up. Too bad we do not cary their diamond line.

Sorry for the ramble, if you have more questions, can PM me.

Ok folks, my 61750A was delivered today. It wasn't supposed to be delivered until this Tues. or Thurs. but I lucked out and as promised here's my first review. BTW, I purchased the set from Crutchfield and it came with the Sammy TV stand, TR500X3B, free white glove delivery, etc., etc.

The Stand & TV size
The TV stand can be built (very easy build) as a 50", 56" & 61" stand. I opted for the 56" and the 61750A fits perfectly, with room to spare. with the 56" build, the TV's stand has a good 3" on either side. The TV screen hangs over the stand's sides, 3" on each side. The TV's depth fit's perfectly on the stand. I have it pushed back 3" from the stand's front edge and the very rear of the TV extends less than 1/2".

61750A's build quality
Over the past few weeks, I've visted my local BB & CC and checked out the Hl-T6187S models. I never got to see the 6189S models. IMHO, the 61750A's build is much better. I was able the press in on the 87S screen and really twist the set's top frame. I can not press in or twist the 61750A frame and certainly not the screen. The 750A's top frame does bend, ever so slightly, but I have no complaint about this. It seems to be made of a much stronger plastic. Considering it's only about 1/2" wide on the screen and 1 1/2" across the top, I would expect it to have some give.

Looks, the piano gloss black is beautiful!!! Comparing it to the dull gray & sliver of the 67W DLP it's replacing, you can't compare it. It's apples to oranges.

Components & connections
HL61750A, Comcast HD cable, Denon AVR 3808ci, Tosh HD-XA2, Belkin Pure/AV, Phase 6 Power Center.
All components plugged onto my Belkin for isolating, filtering, & protection. Cable Box to 3808ci via component & optical. HD-XA2 to 3808ci via HDMI, v. 1.3a (monoprice), 3808ci to 61750A via HDMI, v. 1.3a (monoprice)

Initial impressions
Stunning picture!!!
I am currently allowing my 3808ci to de-interlace the cable box feed. I haven't tested how the 750A would de-interlace as I have the utmost faith in my Denon's Faroudja DCDi processing.
Cable SD looks very good, HD stations are stunning.

DVDs: My HD-XA2 is set to upscale to 1080p. I won't go into the advance video processing settings for SD-DVDs.
SD-DVD, look GREAT. HD-DVD, Oh my good!

Blacks are very black w/o loss of detail. My test is Star Wars, A New Hope. The scence where Vader boards the princess' ship. Vader is all black, and I judge performance by how his cape looks. It looks BLACK and you can clearly see all the wrinkles and creases, so the detail is there.

I have not seen any geometry or bowing issues at all. I've looked very close at the onscreen TV Guide as it has a solid line grid.

Colors are very real life. No color crush of any kind that I see and I have not made any changes to the TV's basic or "detailed" settings with 2 exceptions, and thoses are, Black Adjust and Dynamic Contrast. All other settings are out of the box.

Viewing angle & brightness
The off angle viewing is the same as my 67W. With the out of box settings, with all my recessed light on, full, that's 6 X 250 watt cans, the brightness is very good. No reflections, no hot spots. With the lights off and just my 2 eye ball spots on, the 750A is bright. There is a very, very slight dimming when standing from a seated position. The 750A is approx. 22" above the floor. My main seating is a 3 person couch approx. 13' away. To judge off angle viewing, I have a 2 person love seat about 6' from the TV at a fairly steep angle. My guess is it's about a 45 - 50 degree angle to the TV and viewing is fine, no loss in PQ.

Out of the box settings

Picture
Mode: standard
Contrast: 95
brightenss: 45
Sharpness: 40
Color: 50
Tint R/G: 50/50

Detailed settings
Black adjust: medium (out of box was low)
Dynamic Contrast: off (out of box was medium
LED Control: Auto (this allows you to adjust the LED output according to surrounding illumination)
Gamma:0
White Balance" 0
Flesh tone:0
Edge enhancement: off

Picture Options
color tone: normal
size:16:9
Digital NR: off (this was set to on out of box)
DNIE: off
HDMI Black Level: normal
Film mode: off

I hope this was helpful. It's about 1:30 am now and I'm about to run my 3808ci's Audyssey Multi EQ XT program as I had to move my front speakers & sub when setting up the 750A. Tomorrow I hope to run my HD-DVE to fine tune the 750A's picture.

Cheers,
Eric

Nice report Erock--Of course, the doubters will have none of it...they only want to believe the negative. :rolleyes:

You can get to the test patterns by going to the DDP3021 menu, and choosing Test Pattern (DDP). You can then right arrow through various test patterns.I just checked mine and the upper left side image is down one pixel and the lower right side image is up one pixel. All and all as good or better than I can typically get with my 110 inch image from my projector.

The first picture is from the top middle where the set looks the best. The second picture is from the upper right hand corner where there is extra blurriness, basically an extra line of pixels, on both the left and right.From my experience with 1080p DLP projectors the convergence you are seeing is typical and can't be adjusted in any way. Basically it's caused by the light path being different for each of the three colors.

Again from projector experience if all the colors are within two pixels of each other they will say it's within specs. Now they may swap units for you but you could go through untold numbers trying to get lucky.

I just checked mine and across the screen I'm within one pixel. The center is pretty much spot on and it looks like the red pushes inwards on the each side and down a bit across the top of the screen on both sides. Again all three colors are worse case toughing each other so it's one pixel a worse across the entire image.

I went back through the last few days of posts and I'll try to answer some stuff that may not have been answered elsewhere (and add more unanswered questions):

I hope the PC input (or any) has the overscan compensation fix. I might use this TV as an HTPC monitor in the near future.

Can someone with the 61" 750 LED TV confirm this in the manual or actual TV menu?

EDIT: See post a couple posts down I'm going to try this with my HTPC. I couldn't get anything to work for overscan compensation on the DVI to HDMI input, but I read in the manual you are supposed to change a setting on the HDMI3/DVI input to "PC". Someone else asked about 1:1 pixel mapping. I think you can get 1:1 Pixel mapping if you don't care about overscan. I did this with a 1st gen DLP so hopefully this hasn't changed.

Question to owners please:
This is important to me in regards to SPLIT screen. Can you tune a ATSC HDTV channels and split that with a HDMI HDTV source? Can you change the audio to either one?


I may try to move my antenna connection from my DirecTV box to the TV to verify, but in the meantime, the manual says ONLY analog TV signals in the PIP box. How lame. . .

120hz
As mentioned elsewhere, no mention at all in the manual. No matter what source I've tried it says 60hz. How would this be turned on? Is it really doing 120hz and just reporting the input? Then what if you wanted to turn it off and only do 60hz?

Good to know erock won the lottery and doesn't see any geometry or convergence issues. As I figured, even with the "flimsy" cabinet it is YMMV and there is still hope I might get this set adjusted or get a different one that doesn't have those issues.

From my experience with 1080p DLP projectors the convergence you are seeing is typical and can't be adjusted in any way. Basically it's caused by the light path being different for each of the three colors.

Again from projector experience if all the colors are within two pixels of each other they will say it's within specs. Now they may swap units for you but you could go through untold numbers trying to get lucky.

I would understand that if it was uniform throughout the picture. It seems like some lens somewhere just needs to be moved a fraction of an inch and my problem would go away. Or else the screen position needs to be adjusted slightly, but moving the frame doesn't help with the convergence like it does with the geometry issue.

Ok, you have to actually edit the name of the HDMI3 source to get all the features available to you to use either 1:1 pixel mapping or the "PC" mode where you can resize the image so you get your whole HTPC desktop on the screen without overscan.

-Press Source
-Move to HDMI3/DVI
-Press Tools
-Choose Edit Name
-Choose "PC" as the choice

This allows you to then use the 3 PC modes for Picture Size (P.Size): Wide PC (which allows all the adjustments), Wide TV (1:1 Pixel Mapping as far as I can tell-noticable crisper text), and 4:3.

This is basically documented in the manual but I thought this might help somebody.

You get a little bit more control over adjustments if you use a VGA cable it seems, but I haven't messed with that much yet. I had to use that on my HLN/M but this one has enough HDMI I won't have to use the VGA input. . .

I may try to move my antenna connection from my DirecTV box to the TV to verify, but in the meantime, the manual says ONLY analog TV signals in the PIP box. How lame. . .


Thanks Turls, because the split screen option without the ability to use a ATSC signal is a DEALBREAKER for me. My cheapo Olevia in my bedroom does it and this is the only reason that I want to upgrade my living room TV, other then picture quality of a 5+ yr old HDTV. I do appreciate it!

Jim

Ok, this one is a bigger deal to me and the one you would think Sammy would have some sort of fix a field tech could take care of. They do toot their horn about how single chip DLP doesn't have to worry about convergence issues like multi-chip. Well, if your image is going to look like a CRT that needs to be calibrated, what's the point of making that claim.

The first picture is from the top middle where the set looks the best. The second picture is from the upper right hand corner where there is extra blurriness, basically an extra line of pixels, on both the left and right.

In my case, since I am running a HTPC to this, and I was planning on doing this at 1080p, and I can notice blurrines in text about 12 feet away, this may be a deal killer for me if Sammy can't resolve it with a service menu setting or a field tech. I still like the set (so far), and the problem with DLP from my experience is that if I try to swap, the new set may have its own set of issues.

If Sammy is unresponsive (and says it is in spec or some such nonsense which may have flown at 720p but not 1080p) I figure since CC gave me free delivery, they would bring me another one, and this time I would go straight to these patterns.

106144

106145
I just rcvd a HLT6187SAX and have the exact same convergence problem. Mine is out by at least 4 pixels on horizontal lines near the top of the screen; a white line is green on top, white in the middle and red on the bottom. It gradually goes into perfect convergence as you move down the screen. I also thought the DLP precluded any kind of convergence issue - there certainly seems no way to adjust it (if someone knows how please post; the service manual does not address it). It's going back to Amazon next week unless I come up with a fix.

I guess the new 750 can have the same prob... :(

Ok folks, my 61750A was delivered today. It wasn't supposed to be delivered until this Tues. or Thurs. but I lucked out and as promised here's my first review. BTW, I purchased the set from Crutchfield and it came with the Sammy TV stand, TR500X3B, free white glove delivery, etc., etc.

The Stand & TV size
The TV stand can be built (very easy build) as a 50", 56" & 61" stand. I opted for the 56" and the 61750A fits perfectly, with room to spare. with the 56" build, the TV's stand has a good 3" on either side. The TV screen hangs over the stand's sides, 3" on each side. The TV's depth fit's perfectly on the stand. I have it pushed back 3" from the stand's front edge and the very rear of the TV extends less than 1/2".

61750A's build quality
Over the past few weeks, I've visted my local BB & CC and checked out the Hl-T6187S models. I never got to see the 6189S models. IMHO, the 61750A's build is much better. I was able the press in on the 87S screen and really twist the set's top frame. I can not press in or twist the 61750A frame and certainly not the screen. The 750A's top frame does bend, ever so slightly, but I have no complaint about this. It seems to be made of a much stronger plastic. Considering it's only about 1/2" wide on the screen and 1 1/2" across the top, I would expect it to have some give.

Looks, the piano gloss black is beautiful!!! Comparing it to the dull gray & sliver of the 67W DLP it's replacing, you can't compare it. It's apples to oranges.

Components & connections
HL61750A, Comcast HD cable, Denon AVR 3808ci, Tosh HD-XA2, Belkin Pure/AV, Phase 6 Power Center.
All components plugged onto my Belkin for isolating, filtering, & protection. Cable Box to 3808ci via component & optical. HD-XA2 to 3808ci via HDMI, v. 1.3a (monoprice), 3808ci to 61750A via HDMI, v. 1.3a (monoprice)

Initial impressions
Stunning picture!!!
I am currently allowing my 3808ci to de-interlace the cable box feed. I haven't tested how the 750A would de-interlace as I have the utmost faith in my Denon's Faroudja DCDi processing.
Cable SD looks very good, HD stations are stunning.

DVDs: My HD-XA2 is set to upscale to 1080p. I won't go into the advance video processing settings for SD-DVDs.
SD-DVD, look GREAT. HD-DVD, Oh my good!

Blacks are very black w/o loss of detail. My test is Star Wars, A New Hope. The scence where Vader boards the princess' ship. Vader is all black, and I judge performance by how his cape looks. It looks BLACK and you can clearly see all the wrinkles and creases, so the detail is there.

I have not seen any geometry or bowing issues at all. I've looked very close at the onscreen TV Guide as it has a solid line grid.

Colors are very real life. No color crush of any kind that I see and I have not made any changes to the TV's basic or "detailed" settings with 2 exceptions, and thoses are, Black Adjust and Dynamic Contrast. All other settings are out of the box.

Viewing angle & brightness
The off angle viewing is the same as my 67W. With the out of box settings, with all my recessed light on, full, that's 6 X 250 watt cans, the brightness is very good. No reflections, no hot spots. With the lights off and just my 2 eye ball spots on, the 750A is bright. There is a very, very slight dimming when standing from a seated position. The 750A is approx. 22" above the floor. My main seating is a 3 person couch approx. 13' away. To judge off angle viewing, I have a 2 person love seat about 6' from the TV at a fairly steep angle. My guess is it's about a 45 - 50 degree angle to the TV and viewing is fine, no loss in PQ.

Out of the box settings

Picture
Mode: standard
Contrast: 95
brightenss: 45
Sharpness: 40
Color: 50
Tint R/G: 50/50

Detailed settings
Black adjust: medium (out of box was low)
Dynamic Contrast: off (out of box was medium
LED Control: Auto (this allows you to adjust the LED output according to surrounding illumination)
Gamma:0
White Balance" 0
Flesh tone:0
Edge enhancement: off

Picture Options
color tone: normal
size:16:9
Digital NR: off (this was set to on out of box)
DNIE: off
HDMI Black Level: normal
Film mode: off

I hope this was helpful. It's about 1:30 am now and I'm about to run my 3808ci's Audyssey Multi EQ XT program as I had to move my front speakers & sub when setting up the 750A. Tomorrow I hope to run my HD-DVE to fine tune the 750A's picture.

Cheers,
Eric



That is good news, hopefully these are issues Samsung techs can fix anyway. I really want to to avoid the whole box up and return thing.

Why don't you go over to the SED thread and whine over there?

You have no factual basis for all your complaining. What television company do you work for?

You just can't wait for these sets to suck. Most of us would like them to be great sets, but all you do in your posts is take unreliable anecdotal evidence and condemn them.

Go piss in somebody else's cornflakes.

/rant.


All you have to do is check my posts to see I am not working for a television company. Its nice that you want these TVs not to suck, I dont either. I have owned 3 different Samsung DLPs going back to the 720p ones. I had a HLS5087W that got the side shadow problem, replaced it with 2 HLT6176's that each had such geometry issues I couldnt stand it. Not to mention walking near the thing made the picture shake because of the mirror being mounted on the top in those ultra slim cabs.

You are allowed to be dissapointed in build quality especially when this is now par for the course. There are now many people who own the 750 reporting geometry issues. Why are you venting on me? I love Samsungs picture, I just want straight line and a picture that doesnt bounce when my kid walks in the room. Maybe you ought to calm down a little, I would rather hear the truth than buy something and be dissapointed when there are problems that I could have avoided.

I do have factual info, owning last years set and knowing its the same cabinet. That is why there are geometry issues, the cab cannot support the screen and it bows. There isnt a fix for that.

Ok, this one is a bigger deal to me and the one you would think Sammy would have some sort of fix a field tech could take care of. They do toot their horn about how single chip DLP doesn't have to worry about convergence issues like multi-chip. Well, if your image is going to look like a CRT that needs to be calibrated, what's the point of making that claim.

The first picture is from the top middle where the set looks the best. The second picture is from the upper right hand corner where there is extra blurriness, basically an extra line of pixels, on both the left and right.

In my case, since I am running a HTPC to this, and I was planning on doing this at 1080p, and I can notice blurrines in text about 12 feet away, this may be a deal killer for me if Sammy can't resolve it with a service menu setting or a field tech. I still like the set (so far), and the problem with DLP from my experience is that if I try to swap, the new set may have its own set of issues.



Matt, I'm a little confused, please excuse me. You're reporting "convergence issues" with your 750A. Any convergence issues I have ever experienced first hand or read about was the result of a multi light source improperly aligned causing colors to "smear" or create color "rings" around images. Back in the day before single chip DLP, rear projection TV's had seperate red, green, & blue color tubes same as high end CRT 3 tube front projectors. When any of the tubes were misaligned, convergence occured. With a multi-chip DLP projector, convergence can occur because you have multiple lenses.

Can you or someone else please explain how the "grid patterns" matt posted is a convergence issue? I would like to understand this.
TIA,
Eric

Problems with the 750 so far. Since Turls was able to get the 360 to work with 1080p I tried it again twice. Each time I unplugged the video dongle from the back of the 360 and reset it. I had different results both times. The first time the picture went crazy right away. I tried again an hour later and was able to get it to work until I moved left through the 360 menu a few times, then the screen went black and I got the video not supported message. When I clicked the menu back toward the right the picture came back. Maybe a different component dongle will work better.

Another problem I ran into was with in half an hour of messing with the 360 video settings the TV powered itself down and then back up. This happened twice. The first time I switched the 360 video, then I went to my PS3 and tried SOCOM to see how the video delay was with the game mode off. The second time I had tried messing with the 360's video setting again and then played Forza 2. During Forza the TV had the same power down issue. I've haven't had the problem all week or since, hopefully it's somehow related to trying the 360 at 1080p and having the screen go crazy. However it doesn't make since why it would happen about a half hour later and on the PS3 also.

When the TV powered down the screen went black, one of the green LEDs was flashing, and the TV made the power down sound, then it powered right back up. Unfortunately I didn't think to hop off the couch and see which LED was flashing. Now I haven't had the problem since.

As far as geomentry I have slight bowing, but it's much better than my HLR6168.

Another problem I ran into was with in half an hour of messing with the 360 video settings the TV powered itself down and then back up. This happened twice. The first time I switched the 360 video, then I went to my PS3 and tried SOCOM to see how the video delay was with the game mode off. The second time I had tried messing with the 360's video setting again and then played Forza 2. During Forza the TV had the same power down issue. I've haven't had the problem all week or since, hopefully it's somehow related to trying the 360 at 1080p and having the screen go crazy. However it doesn't make since why it would happen about a half hour later and on the PS3 also.

When the TV powered down the screen went black, one of the green LEDs was flashing, and the TV made the power down sound, then it powered right back up. Unfortunately I didn't think to hop off the couch and see which LED was flashing. Now I haven't had the problem since.

Howdy, I'm curious about these power down events. Have you been able to watch TV and DVD movies for a few hours straight with no issues?

Also, do you have much room behind the TV for airflow?

Power done problem seems to be reported on 2008 Samsung LCD TVs. Look in Amazon review section.
TV just turns off by itself for no apparent reason.
May be new power supplies got something to do with this problem, or their new energy efficient rating is limiting power consumption too drastically.
I am looking for one 52 inch LCD for my bedroom along with 67+ for living room and was suprised to hear similar complains from new DLP and LCD owners.

After spending a couple days going back and forth between the Mitsubishi 65733 and the Samsung HL61A750, I bought the latter, which will be delivered on the 1st. The backup HDTV for the kids to watch (a 6-year old, 43" Toshiba 4:3) finally bit the dust, so I decided to replace it with my 1.5 year old Mitsi 57731 and get the Samsung.

As for why I chose the Samsung over the Mitsi:

1. There appears to be more detail and a sharper, brighter picture on both SD and HD material.

2. The room it goes in is bright and having a set with 60,000-hour LEDs instead of a 2-3,000 hour bulb will allow me to turn up the brightness without fear of having to replace it anytime soon.

3. The Samsung has an easy firmware update procedure: Dload the firmware onto a USB thumbdrive. Insert it into the USB port on the back. Select Access USB port from a menu. I have never updated my TV's firmware, so it will be interesting to see what features are added or problems fixed.

4. The 120mhz promise of smooth, fast motion.

Man, you guys suck. I've been following the HLT6187 for like 6 months now waiting for prices to fall and to be able to afford it. Now I find this thread after reading it for 30 minutes I don't know what to think...

LED engine is bad? Viewing angle sucks? Black levels blow? I saw an 06 model of my friends that was a bulb one and it looked fine for gaming. My buddy owns a 6187 and it looks great. He doesn't have a 1080p dvd to use on it.

If I can get an 6187 for $600 cheaper than one of the new ones, should I? A certain electronic stores is offering 3 years no interest and I am getting an extremely itchy trigger finger. (The 27 JVC tube from six years ago in the living room has GOT to go) I was planning on going there, picking up the tv, stand, and a PS3 for blueray (and some games)...I just don't know which model I will be getting, new or old...I have a discerning eye but I am in no way as precise as the connoiseurs here...

I seek your advice, oh sages of Samsung. Help me choose.

I wonder if the store's got a cheaper early version for display. Because at Best Buy yesterday I saw the 61A750 and it was very flimsy. With little pressure, I was able to twist the cabinet over 2 inches at the top! WTF? I was also able to push on the front screen and create all kinds of interesting geometry distortions. I am so incredibly disappointed. The screen was real dark. Guess they had not adjusted the brightness. The remote was missing and the two guys who worked there were beyond stupid (no offense to any Best Buy employees here). At that point I just left. Now I'm thinking about their series 5 plasma line. Didn't want to spend that much money. But an inexpensive piece of junk is still a piece of junk.


61750A's build quality
Over the past few weeks, I've visted my local BB & CC and checked out the Hl-T6187S models. I never got to see the 6189S models. IMHO, the 61750A's build is much better. I was able the press in on the 87S screen and really twist the set's top frame. I can not press in or twist the 61750A frame and certainly not the screen. The 750A's top frame does bend, ever so slightly, but I have no complaint about this. It seems to be made of a much stronger plastic. Considering it's only about 1/2" wide on the screen and 1 1/2" across the top, I would expect it to have some give.

So does the lack of ATSC split screen mean that this feature will be useless in Feb 2009, when all broadcast signals become digital? If so, that's unreal.

All you have to do is check my posts to see I am not working for a television company. Its nice that you want these TVs not to suck, I dont either. I have owned 3 different Samsung DLPs going back to the 720p ones. I had a HLS5087W that got the side shadow problem, replaced it with 2 HLT6176's that each had such geometry issues I couldnt stand it. Not to mention walking near the thing made the picture shake because of the mirror being mounted on the top in those ultra slim cabs.

You are allowed to be dissapointed in build quality especially when this is now par for the course. There are now many people who own the 750 reporting geometry issues. Why are you venting on me? I love Samsungs picture, I just want straight line and a picture that doesnt bounce when my kid walks in the room. Maybe you ought to calm down a little, I would rather hear the truth than buy something and be dissapointed when there are problems that I could have avoided.

I do have factual info, owning last years set and knowing its the same cabinet. That is why there are geometry issues, the cab cannot support the screen and it bows. There isnt a fix for that.

Yes, of course you are allowed to be disappointed--But you haven't even seen the set yet for yourself, and have subjected this thread to post after post deckaring them to be a total bust.

Why don't you wait and see one for yourself, then let us know what you think. I don't blame you for not wanting to go through the whole box and return thing, but there's really only one way to know if these sets are for you.

But like I said, rant off--sorry if I got a little too intense...

Hope you find what you are looking for :)

I just rcvd a HLT6187SAX and have the exact same convergence problem. Mine is out by at least 4 pixels on horizontal lines near the top of the screen; a white line is green on top, white in the middle and red on the bottom. It gradually goes into perfect convergence as you move down the screen. I also thought the DLP precluded any kind of convergence issue - there certainly seems no way to adjust it (if someone knows how please post; the service manual does not address it). It's going back to Amazon next week unless I come up with a fix.

I guess the new 750 can have the same prob... :(

Matt, I'm a little confused, please excuse me. You're reporting "convergence issues" with your 750A. Any convergence issues I have ever experienced first hand or read about was the result of a multi light source improperly aligned causing colors to "smear" or create color "rings" around images. Back in the day before single chip DLP, rear projection TV's had seperate red, green, & blue color tubes same as high end CRT 3 tube front projectors. When any of the tubes were misaligned, convergence occured. With a multi-chip DLP projector, convergence can occur because you have multiple lenses.

Can you or someone else please explain how the "grid patterns" matt posted is a convergence issue? I would like to understand this.
TIA,
Eric


I'm not sure this answers the questions, but different wavelengths (colors) of light focus at different distances. That is why high end camera lenses--especially long telephotos- have special coatings and curvature to get the different colors to focus on the same plane.

Not sure if different colors "bend" at different angles through a lens, but this may have something to do with it.

Any optics professors out there? :)

It ends up neither of the component inputs works on my HL61A750. Tried two different sources at several resolutions and all of them returned Mode Not Supported. According to Samsung support component input should accept all resolutions.

Anyway Best Buy agreed to cover the delivery fee to swap sets (I picked up the first one) and should deliver it Tuesday.

Problems with the 750 so far. Since Turls was able to get the 360 to work with 1080p I tried it again twice. Each time I unplugged the video dongle from the back of the 360 and reset it. I had different results both times. The first time the picture went crazy right away. I tried again an hour later and was able to get it to work until I moved left through the 360 menu a few times, then the screen went black and I got the video not supported message. When I clicked the menu back toward the right the picture came back. Maybe a different component dongle will work better.

Just to confirm, I also had the picture go out on me while playing some video content. It also happened to me during "Scene It" when there was a cut-scene video with cameras flashing. This doesn't sound good. Hopefully it is some setting that can be adjusted to keep it from acting flaky like this, or a firmware upgrade. We 360 owners will have to watch this behavior closely.

So does the lack of ATSC split screen mean that this feature will be useless in Feb 2009, when all broadcast signals become digital? If so, that's unreal.

My question is after finding this out did last year's 69 series have this issue? This is just bizarre. I could at least do Svid and DVI at the same time on the first gen set.

I wonder if the store's got a cheaper early version for display.

No, that's how mine is. I don't really see what the big deal is, they obviously can't get the geometry right anyway 100% of the time anyway, and since they are pressured to keep the weight down and have a thin bezel, what is Sammy supposed to do? It isn't like once you put it on a stand it is going to get moved. I guess depending on the stability of your floors and stands it could be an occassional issue. I guess I don't see what their alternative would be.

Of those with prior Samsung DLP experience and first-hand experience with the new 61A750, I ask for a recommendation.

I currently have the HLN5065 720p bulb TV. I've had it for 4 years now and it's currently in a room with two south facing windows. I sit about 10 feet away on the center of a 5 person couch. I have never replaced the lamp and the service menu shows just over 6700 hours on the lamp.

I watch some HD TV, some SD TV, some HD-DVDs, and play some XBOX360 on this 50" HLN. I also sometime hook the Mac Mini computer to it as well.

My wife and I are overall quite pleased with it however we would like to get the 1080p experience and a larger screen for our viewing distance. We are currently torn between the 67A750 or waiting for LCD TVs to catch-up in screen size and drop in price. We have not seen a 61A750 in the store yet as the local Peoria, IL, stores don't have them on the floor. The Sony 52" LCD TVs we see look quite stunning in contrast and brightness but aren't much larger than the 50" HLN DLP we have and cost another $1k-2k over the 61" DLPs.

What are your recommendations? I'm not in a huge rush now that the NCAA Tourney is almost over and the 67" still isn't out yet.

Matt, I'm a little confused, please excuse me. You're reporting "convergence issues" with your 750A. Any convergence issues I have ever experienced first hand or read about was the result of a multi light source improperly aligned causing colors to "smear" or create color "rings" around images. Back in the day before single chip DLP, rear projection TV's had seperate red, green, & blue color tubes same as high end CRT 3 tube front projectors. When any of the tubes were misaligned, convergence occured. With a multi-chip DLP projector, convergence can occur because you have multiple lenses.

Can you or someone else please explain how the "grid patterns" matt posted is a convergence issue? I would like to understand this.


I'm calling it convergence, maybe it is really "focus". In any case, if it was normal every set would have it and the right side would have the same issue as the left, or the top the same as the bottom. Its possibly a simple matter of poor build quality (either the engine, cabinet, or screen), poor quality control, or maybe just something out of adjustment.

So now with reading this thread, if I swap it out I guess I risk getting the power down issue. Gosh, on material that I'll be using 80% of the time or more, it just doesn't hardly matter. But its that other 20%. . .

Of those with prior Samsung DLP experience and first-hand experience with the new 61A750, I ask for a recommendation.

I currently have the HLN5065 720p bulb TV. I've had it for 4 years now and it's currently in a room with two south facing windows. I sit about 10 feet away on the center of a 5 person couch. I have never replaced the lamp and the service menu shows just over 6700 hours on the lamp.

I watch some HD TV, some SD TV, some HD-DVDs, and play some XBOX360 on this 50" HLN. I also sometime hook the Mac Mini computer to it as well.


I have a very similar setup and usage pattern as you. I moved up from a 50" to a 61" and wouldn't have minded waiting for a 67", but I may have needed a new stand. This set is so much brighter than the 50" one. I'm not sure what other specifics you are asking about, but PM me if you need to.

One nice thing about waiting is that you aren't an early adopter.

Howdy, I'm curious about these power down events. Have you been able to watch TV and DVD movies for a few hours straight with no issues?

Also, do you have much room behind the TV for airflow?

I've watched TV and movies for hours before the power downs without a problem. I haven't had a problem since. I had the TV on for about six hours after the last power down and haven't had a problem. I had it on this morning for three hours without a problem. Thats why I wonder if the 360 1080p problem caused it to go a little haywire until it powered down and up on it's own. It has about two feet of room behind it, so I dont think over heating is a problem. Maybe I had power problems at the time. I just hope I can get it figured out within the 30 day return window. The picture is good enough (compared to my older set) that I would exhange it for another, despite the problems.

Me too. My small high-end AV store I have been dealing with won't be bringing them in. Who have you asked?

I went to the local BB (Kitchener) and asked if they have it in the system. Unfortunately, they don't have the 650 or 750 listed in their system.

But, I've been to like 3 different BB and they all have two empty spaces in their RPTV area along with 5076s... Guessing those two spots are for 650 and 750? :o

Edit: They seem to have the 2008 Samsung LCDs though.

I have the HL-R5078W with the shadow problem & was finally reimbursed my purchase price (less the extended warranty cost) after multiple service calls to replace the light engine. I have been seriously considering the HLxxA750 for our replacement, but with the HL-Txx89S getting large price drops due to being a discontinued model, I'm watching them too.

I'm not seeing anything about the HL-Txx89S or the HLxxA750 models still having the TV Guide feature. We cancelled satellite due to all of the dithering/artifacts in their HD programming & now only get our HD programming OTA, so having the TV Guide feature is a big plus. I tried skimming through the HL-Txx87S & HL-Txx89S thread, but with over 390 pages it's been extremely time consuming & I did not see anything mentioned about it yet in this thread.

Has the TV Guide feature been removed from Samsung DLP sets or is it just not being listed in the specs anymore?

Thanks in advance for any answers.

I'm not sure this answers the questions, but different wavelengths (colors) of light focus at different distances. That is why high end camera lenses--especially long telephotos- have special coatings and curvature to get the different colors to focus on the same plane.

Not sure if different colors "bend" at different angles through a lens, but this may have something to do with it.

Any optics professors out there? :)


Google chromatic aberration.

I wonder if the store's got a cheaper early version for display. Because at Best Buy yesterday I saw the 61A750 and it was very flimsy. With little pressure, I was able to twist the cabinet over 2 inches at the top! WTF? I was also able to push on the front screen and create all kinds of interesting geometry distortions. I am so incredibly disappointed. The screen was real dark. Guess they had not adjusted the brightness. The remote was missing and the two guys who worked there were beyond stupid (no offense to any Best Buy employees here). At that point I just left. Now I'm thinking about their series 5 plasma line. Didn't want to spend that much money. But an inexpensive piece of junk is still a piece of junk.
I can do the same but only about 1/2 inch (maybe 1 inch) without too much pressure. Given the size, I'm comfortable with this amount. I've looked at a number of the Samsung models over the years and my HL61A750 seems to be the best yet (IMO).

I know someone mentioned to get HDMI cables at Monoprice. There are alot of different cables on the site so can someone give me an exact link or specific product # of which cables to buy for the 61A750? Also, I have an XBOX 360 and will be getting a PS3 for blueray, so how many should I buy? Thanks!

No, that's how mine is. I don't really see what the big deal is, they obviously can't get the geometry right anyway 100% of the time anyway, and since they are pressured to keep the weight down and have a thin bezel, what is Sammy supposed to do? It isn't like once you put it on a stand it is going to get moved. I guess depending on the stability of your floors and stands it could be an occassional issue. I guess I don't see what their alternative would be.
I agree in that I don't plan on moving my TV much so it needs to be sturdy but not enough to be that concerned about.

I went to the local BB (Kitchener) and asked if they have it in the system. Unfortunately, they don't have the 650 or 750 listed in their system.

But, I've been to like 3 different BB and they all have two empty spaces in their RPTV area along with 5076s... Guessing those two spots are for 650 and 750? :o

Edit: They seem to have the 2008 Samsung LCDs though.
You need to have them do more than "check" inventory as mine just arrived off of the truck and I could visually see it on the shelves and Best Buy said they'd have to order it for me.

I have the HL-R5078W with the shadow problem & was finally reimbursed my purchase price (less the extended warranty cost) after multiple service calls to replace the light engine. I have been seriously considering the HLxxA750 for our replacement, but with the HL-Txx89S getting large price drops due to being a discontinued model, I'm watching them too.

I'm not seeing anything about the HL-Txx89S or the HLxxA750 models still having the TV Guide feature. We cancelled satellite due to all of the dithering/artifacts in their HD programming & now only get our HD programming OTA, so having the TV Guide feature is a big plus. I tried skimming through the HL-Txx87S & HL-Txx89S thread, but with over 390 pages it's been extremely time consuming & I did not see anything mentioned about it yet in this thread.

Has the TV Guide feature been removed from Samsung DLP sets or is it just not being listed in the specs anymore?

Thanks in advance for any answers.
I'm using OTA and it does have a "TV guide" listing in this unit. The only down side seems to be that you have to surf the channels first so that it gets the information.

i had one black flack shaped like a mike and ike only smaller. I exchanged it for another one.

Looks like Amazon has ALL the new models up now. I am not sure all of them appear under a search (or section for) "DLP", but if you look they are all there. I just ordered the HL67A750 --- $2552.99 with free shipping .. it says 1-2 months delivery. I used my Amazon Visa card with coupon code 2IK9E6R8 to get an extra $20 off (only works with Amazon Visa). Also, with Amazon Visa, I get 3% of all Amazon purchases back as Amazon Gift Certificates, so I'll pick up an extra $75 in certificates. (Net delivered-to-door price for me is $2456.40). Amazon does not charge your card until it ships, and can be cancelled at any time before ship date.

Here's the link for the HL67A750 ...

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001413DWQ

Asking again b/c I'd like to know tonight so I can place an order.....

I know someone mentioned to get HDMI cables at Monoprice. There are alot of different cables on the site so can someone give me an exact link or specific product # of which cables to buy for the 61A750? Also, I have an XBOX 360 and will be getting a PS3 for blueray, so how many should I buy? Thanks!

Asking again b/c I'd like to know tonight so I can place an order.....

I know someone mentioned to get HDMI cables at Monoprice. There are alot of different cables on the site so can someone give me an exact link or specific product # of which cables to buy for the 61A750? Also, I have an XBOX 360 and will be getting a PS3 for blueray, so how many should I buy? Thanks!

Buy 1 for the PS3, 1 for the XBOX. If you plan to connect the PS3/XBOX to an external amp, and then connect the amp to the TV, buy 1 more.

I always buy cheap HDMI cables ... to me it's like fiber optic or USB cables, either the signal gets there or it doesn't. If I am wrong, I would love to find out, but until then I just get reasonably priced cables. I just bought 2 HDMI cables for $8.99 delivered (no shipping, no tax) from MeritLine (yes, 2 cables for a total of $8.99)... the forum won't let me post URLs (I am a new member), but maybe I can confuse it ... btw, they take PayPal.

(1) http://
(2) www.
(3) meritline.com/
(4) 193-267-002.html

EDIT: rrock22 found a similar deal at MeritLine for (2) HDMI 1.3 cables for a total of $13.99 delivered, and the link for the 1.3 cables follows ...

(1) http://
(2) www.
(3) meritline.com/
(4) 193-237-002.html

Thanks rRock22, I just ordered some for myself! I question if there is any difference, but for only $5 more, it's good insurance.

I went to CC last week to look at 61", 750 and they weren't on the floor. Guy showed me a last year model next to a Toshiba and their pictures was about the same. I told the guy "these are no better than my Toshiba but who knows how they are adjusted" and left.

Came home and based on this thread ordered one from CC.

It was delivered Saturday morning. Went thru user menu and made some changes. Ended up being as good or better than my self calibrated (Calman & Eye 1Pro) Toshiba which I've never run on lamp high and have gotten aprox 8000 hours on before replacing bulb due to being dim (I'm on #2 and set runs 8 to 10 hours a day).

I won't attempt to adjust service menu until service manuals are available, but skin tone is very close, I can now see lapel outlines on black suit and set is quite a few times brighter than old Toshiba. Ran Calman just to check and temp was about 6200 with green being a little high across the board using warm2.

It was delivered Saturday morning. Went thru user menu and made some changes. Ended up being as good or better than my self calibrated (Calman & Eye 1Pro) Toshiba which I've never run on lamp high and have gotten aprox 8000 hours on before replacing bulb due to being dim (I'm on #2 and set runs 8 to 10 hours a day).

Do you mind posting a summary of what you changed?

...I currently have the HLN5065 720p bulb TV. ...My wife and I are overall quite pleased with it ...What are your recommendations? I'm not in a huge rush now ...

I am in the same boat with my 720p D-ILA (not quite as old but more hours). Really I've never seen much improvement in comparing 720p and 1080p sets in stores. The HDTV world will undoubtedly continue to undergo huge advances in the next few years and I've decided just to be content with what I have for a while. Anything new I'd buy would be out of date in 6 months anyway. And my present set has one advantage that I would not be sure of in any replacement set, it's 100% reliable so far.

I've watched TV and movies for hours before the power downs without a problem. I haven't had a problem since. I had the TV on for about six hours after the last power down and haven't had a problem. I had it on this morning for three hours without a problem. Thats why I wonder if the 360 1080p problem caused it to go a little haywire until it powered down and up on it's own. It has about two feet of room behind it, so I dont think over heating is a problem. Maybe I had power problems at the time. I just hope I can get it figured out within the 30 day return window. The picture is good enough (compared to my older set) that I would exhange it for another, despite the problems.

I bought the 61A750 a few days ago and have had these problems when watching BD and DVD through PS3 (1-3 times per movie). It hasn't happened yet while watching cable or playing PS3 games. I am running my sound from cable/PS3 to a stereo and have the TV speaker all the way down so I don't know if it plays the shutdown tune.

The status light that blinks is the LED one (far right). Manual says it means "LED will come on in about 15 seconds"... and it does.

I called support and they want to see the same problem with another device before sending out a tech... I have switched inputs for PS3 and cable and will keep an eye on it.

Other than this I am very happy with the set. This is my first "real" TV as I upgraded from a Samsung 30" tube that could only do 1080i and 480p.

Purchased the Samsung HL61A750A1F today at Circuit City. Easy to set up and have had no problems. Picture is outstanding. We also have a Sony Bravia LCD and the new Samsung picture seems just as nice. We wanted a large set (at least 60" to fit a built-in cabinet) and this seemed to be the best we saw for a decent price. We paid $2395 and brought it home ourselves in the back of my truck. We are not AV experts, we just wanted an affordable TV that looked good from a reliable company. The Sony 60" SXRD was considered but none of the local stores had any available other than already opened items.

Although we are not overly technical about this type of purchase, the comments on this forum were useful and helped in our decision. We had never purchased a rear projection TV before and this site offered plenty of accessible information.

Thanks to all.

I'm using OTA and it does have a "TV guide" listing in this unit. The only down side seems to be that you have to surf the channels first so that it gets the information.
Thank you for the reply.

That sounds better than the HL-R5078W. It would only download the information when in standby mode (they recommended overnight) after you went through the tv guide setup & put in a zipcode, then manually added all of the stations it would miss. I even tried using a zipcode in the city where the stations were located & it still missed some of them.

I guess all I need to do now is find a retail store that has the HL61A750 in stock so I can actually see it before I start shopping for the best price on it versus the HL-T5689S or HL-T6189S closeouts I had been considering.

Thanks again!

Be careful about this, I hooked up antenna yesterday to make sure it worked (I don't really need to leave it setup this way since I get my OTA through my DirecTV box). I think what you had before was a service downloaded. What this new set seems to do is use the "PSIP" data that the stations provide. The problem is not all stations do a good job providing that information or provide the correct information. You may not be happy with the final guide you end up with. For example, you might end up with stations that just say something like "DTV Digital Program" instead of true program information.

That sounds better than the HL-R5078W. It would only download the information when in standby mode (they recommended overnight) after you went through the tv guide setup & put in a zipcode, then manually added all of the stations it would miss. I even tried using a zipcode in the city where the stations were located & it still missed some of them.

Be careful about this, I hooked up antenna yesterday to make sure it worked (I don't really need to leave it setup this way since I get my OTA through my DirecTV box). I think what you had before was a service downloaded. What this new set seems to do is use the "PSIP" data that the stations provide. The problem is not all stations do a good job providing that information or provide the correct information. You may not be happy with the final guide you end up with. For example, you might end up with stations that just say something like "DTV Digital Program" instead of true program information.
Very good point.

Do you mind posting a summary of what you changed?

Turned all enhancements off, set bright & contrast, color & tint with GETGRAY DVD & THX (?) blue glasses. using standard mode & warm2. Picture looks like a panel set compared to the old Toshiba (which I thought was pretty good after calibration just not bright). Both sets being in a non light controlled room with windows all around. I'm using the DTV box tuner for local OTA HD with native out. Waiting for BRDVD prices to come down so still using a Panasonic S97 DVD player with HDMI 1024 out to Yamaha then TV.

I twisted the screen some out of curiosity and didn't see any significant picture distortion. Based on this set I don't understand the previous negative comments but then I've never used the TV for a HTPC. The Toshiba really sucked if you tried to hook up a PC.

Picked up a Sammy HL50A650. PQ is amazing. But I've got bowing. I just noticed it yesterday when I pulled up the Directv guide. There is a significant dip in the top line of the guide. I watch a lot of sports, so I see the bowing in the score banners at the top and the ticker at the bottom. Bought it from CC.

My question is, what do I do?:
* Exchange it at the store?
* Return it and buy an LCD? Although I would have to go 46 to make it fit, since the LCD cabinets are wider
* Return it and buy a 2007 LED Sammy or maybe a 2007 bulb? They have good discounts right now.
* Call Samsung

Any advice would be greatly appreciated. I know this would be a mostly personal decision, but many of you here seem to have a lot fo experience with this and was hoping you may have some insights.

Thanks for the help.

Be careful about this, I hooked up antenna yesterday to make sure it worked (I don't really need to leave it setup this way since I get my OTA through my DirecTV box). I think what you had before was a service downloaded. What this new set seems to do is use the "PSIP" data that the stations provide. The problem is not all stations do a good job providing that information or provide the correct information. You may not be happy with the final guide you end up with. For example, you might end up with stations that just say something like "DTV Digital Program" instead of true program information.

So Matt, did the split-screen work with a ATSC station and HDMI? Audio options?

Thanks,

Jim

I twisted the screen some out of curiosity and didn't see any significant picture distortion. Based on this set I don't understand the previous negative comments but then I've never used the TV for a HTPC. The Toshiba really sucked if you tried to hook up a PC.

Did you pull up the grid pattern in the service menu as I described earlier in the thread? Its then easy to see the geometry issues and focus/convergence issues, if you have them. Like I said though, its a crap shoot. You may have been lucky and gotten one without issues. There's not enough data to know if I'm in the (hypothetical) 10% with the problem or the (hypothetical) 90% with the problem.

If you don't use the test pattern (or some other grid/line test pattern), some people wouldn't know one way or the other.

So Matt, did the split-screen work with a ATSC station and HDMI? Audio options?


No, but I gave up on it too easily probably before moving the antenna cable back to its home on the DirecTV box. After it did the initial scan (which was pretty quick), I went through and deleted all the analog channels. At that point, I couldn't even get PIP to come up? But maybe I was in the wrong place. Sorry I didn't do a better job confirming that, but I have no reason to believe the manual is wrong. My wife setup company I didn't know about so I was in too big of a hurry.

You know, I used to be in love with the whole PIP concept but DVRs and additional low cost screens have changed my mind a lot on that. When I used to use PIP, I always ended up moving it or turning it off when there was something I wanted to see in the section covered up.

My question is, what do I do?:
* Exchange it at the store?
* Return it and buy an LCD? Although I would have to go 46 to make it fit, since the LCD cabinets are wider
* Return it and buy a 2007 LED Sammy or maybe a 2007 bulb? They have good discounts right now.
* Call Samsung

Any advice would be greatly appreciated. I know this would be a mostly personal decision, but many of you here seem to have a lot fo experience with this and was hoping you may have some insights.


All of those are an option (although going a year back isn't going to guarantee you no bowing picture), I would really love to hear what Samsung tells people about this. I'm going to plan on calling them, but maybe if all of us call we can compare answers.

Since the CC that delivered mine is 40 miles away, I'm considering going there within my return window and making them open up TVs until they find one without geometry issues, and then having them deliver that. Since they gave me free delivery at purchase, they ought to put up with at least one more trip without cost. If I just have them bring another one, then its a complete crap shoot. Its still a crapshoot if some defect shows up later. This whole power off and going to black screen thing is bothering me. (I'm sure they would love me for all that). But I don't feel bad I put up with it on 1st gen and shouldn't have to still deal with it in 7th gen. And I love DLP and the set otherwise.

I purchased a 61" 750 from BB yesterday through my cousin's employee discount. After opening the box, I immediately noticed smiley face bowing at the top of the unit. I couldn't find any stations with top tickers though to check it out. I tested the bottom with the TV Guide Network but didn't notice any issues there.

I'm new to HD so unfortunately I won't be able to contribute a technical review, but I'll be following this thread closely.

I also purchased a Panasonic 42PZ85U (currently their highest-end plasma), so I'm curious to see the performance of this DLP vs the new plasma.

Did you pull up the grid pattern in the service menu as I described earlier in the thread? Its then easy to see the geometry issues and focus/convergence issues, if you have them. Like I said though, its a crap shoot. You may have been lucky and gotten one without issues. There's not enough data to know if I'm in the (hypothetical) 10% with the problem or the (hypothetical) 90% with the problem.

If you don't use the test pattern, some people wouldn't know one way or the other.

Still had GETGRAY in DVD player. It has overscan pattern but no crosshatch. Overscan has a series of boxes around the outside. It does show some overscan. The outer box is about 1/16" closer to edge in center, however this seems to be due to case sag as the line itself is straight with the longest (20") ruler I have

Has anyone tried connecting a computer to one of these? Wondering how much of the screen will get chopped off. Would also be a very easy way to test for smiley faces.

Samsung's web site implies that the series 6 DLP sets introduced for 2008 UNDER 60" do NOT have the LED light engine ( NO BULB AND COLOR WHEEL) as they did previously (HLT5089).

IS THIS TRUE?

I cannot get a straight answer out of SAMSUNG tech support. All they say is series 6 has the "Cinema Smooth" engine and the Series 7 has the "Cinema Pure". What does that mean to me????

PLEASE HELP. I am ready to make a purchase!

All of those are an option (although going a year back isn't going to guarantee you no bowing picture), I would really love to hear what Samsung tells people about this. I'm going to plan on calling them, but maybe if all of us call we can compare answers.

Since the CC that delivered mine is 40 miles away, I'm considering going there within my return window and making them open up TVs until they find one without geometry issues, and then having them deliver that. Since they gave me free delivery at purchase, they ought to put up with at least one more trip without cost. If I just have them bring another one, then its a complete crap shoot. Its still a crapshoot if some defect shows up later. This whole power off and going to black screen thing is bothering me. (I'm sure they would love me for all that). But I don't feel bad I put up with it on 1st gen and shouldn't have to still deal with it in 7th gen. And I love DLP and the set otherwise.

Good idea. I'll likely do the same. However, I wonder how many of these they have in stock.

I wonder if I shouldn't jsut return it and get the HLT5089, so I don't have to deal with the bulb game.

Samsung's web site implies that the series 6 DLP sets introduced for 2008 UNDER 60" do NOT have the LED light engine ( NO BULB AND COLOR WHEEL) as they did previously (HLT5089).

IS THIS TRUE?

I cannot get a straight answer out of SAMSUNG tech support. All they say is series 6 has the "Cinema Smooth" engine and the Series 7 has the "Cinema Pure". What does that mean to me????

PLEASE HELP. I am ready to make a purchase!

Page 6 of the 6 Series manual. It's a bulb.

I think people have mentioned that when buying a TV at Circuit C you have a 30 day window to return...Can someone confirm this and can you return it for ANY reason? Like, even if there is nothing wrong with it you can still return it at no cost? I need to know as I want to test the Samsung out b/c I am trying to decide between it and the panasonic plasma pz85u......I figure I can get one or the other at CC and return it before I make a final decision...thanks!

I am also asking b/c I would like to know how the experience went if someone did return a TV and if there were any issues........

I'm not sure this answers the questions, but different wavelengths (colors) of light focus at different distances. That is why high end camera lenses--especially long telephotos- have special coatings and curvature to get the different colors to focus on the same plane.

Not sure if different colors "bend" at different angles through a lens, but this may have something to do with it.

Any optics professors out there? :)

Thanks moonhawk, but the problem that you posted from ballpoint80 clearly describes a color issue and your description of the camera sceneiro, "colors bending" also has to do with colors. Both are caused by misalignment. I understand this, convergence problems are the cause of the seperate color tubes or chips not being perfectly aligned, but turls is complaining about pixel shift and poor or soft focus. It is these problems that turls is calling a convergence problem that I don't understand. Just look at the 2 images turls posted, both are black & white grid patterns. There isn't any color misalignment involved?

*Edit* I just went back to look at the images turls posted again and I wonder if the poor/soft focus issue in the pictures has to do with the A750's LED settings. The A750 has user settings that allow the LEDs to be adjusted according to surrounding illumination. Turls pictures show the areas of soft focus in areas of the grid that aren't as brightly iluminated as the sharp focused areas.

Matt, if you read this could you try using the LED adjustments and then check the grid pattern again.

Eric

I think people have mentioned that when buying a TV at Circuit C you have a 30 day window to return...Can someone confirm this and can you return it for ANY reason? Like, even if there is nothing wrong with it you can still return it at no cost? I need to know as I want to test the Samsung out b/c I am trying to decide between it and the panasonic plasma pz85u......I figure I can get one or the other at CC and return it before I make a final decision...thanks!

I am also asking b/c I would like to know how the experience went if someone did return a TV and if there were any issues........

It worked for me. The only question I was asked - "Was it working?"

Matt, if you have some more time and get a chance to experiment with the Split Screen, I would appreciate it because if this TV does not do it, it is out of the running for me. I am a baseball addict and for 6 months a year, I want to at least view the games while the other person that I share the TV with, watches her shows. I will not settle this time since I know a cheapo tv that I have does it.

I know this is not the best place for it, but what is the difference between the 5089 and 5087? I ass because I am now considering returning this 50A650 and getting a 5087 at a good price (more than $300 less than the A650), and the 5089 is hard to find.

Anyone that wants to talk me off the ledge, please do.

Picked up a Sammy HL50A650. PQ is amazing. But I've got bowing. I just noticed it yesterday when I pulled up the Directv guide. There is a significant dip in the top line of the guide. I watch a lot of sports, so I see the bowing in the score banners at the top and the ticker at the bottom. Bought it from CC.

My question is, what do I do?:
* Exchange it at the store?
* Return it and buy an LCD? Although I would have to go 46 to make it fit, since the LCD cabinets are wider
* Return it and buy a 2007 LED Sammy or maybe a 2007 bulb? They have good discounts right now.
* Call Samsung

Any advice would be greatly appreciated. I know this would be a mostly personal decision, but many of you here seem to have a lot fo experience with this and was hoping you may have some insights.

Thanks for the help.

Samsung will not be able to fix the bowing. They may be able to get the geometry a bit better by screwing around with the DMD and adjusting things but bowing cannot be fixed. So disappointing.

If bowing can not be fixed will Samsung replace the TV?

Got my 61a750 over the weekend. So far it looks great...haven't had the opportunity to tweak it or get into the service menu. I'm in CA - got it from CC and mine says made in Mexico. I'm wondering where others are made and if one Samsung factory has better quality control than another. Just wondering. http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/images/smilies/confused.gif
:confused:

I went and saw a 61a750 at my local CC this weekend and it looked good but I did notice that the screen seemed very flimsy...like you could push it in very easy as opposed to a plasma that is glass and very hard/sturdy.....I guess that's just how they are but my wife did not like it and might be a deal breaker......hopefully not as I want a big TV!

oh, around the actual screen seemed sturdy...I couldn't bend it or anything....but it did seem exactly like the 6187 that was also there....

Has anyone tried connecting a computer to one of these? Wondering how much of the screen will get chopped off. Would also be a very easy way to test for smiley faces.
I connected my computer to the PC input and the image was about an 1" short on all sides. I then used the adjustment options to stretch it out to fill the screen. Outside of that everything looked and worked great. My wife and I watched some 1080p content last night and were very impressed with the picture quality.

Maybe I'm too laid back but come on, what's with all the complaints. Yes, you purchase with your hard earned dollars and you want perfection. I understand that. You certainly don't expect or want to purchase a TV that has any major defects either. Unfortunately, some products off the assembly line are defective. But you also should realize it is what it is! A DLP 61" TV that a bit over 2K.

I just purchased the HL61750A and it replaces my 3+ year old HL-R4667W bulb DLP. Before purchasing the 750A I was looking very hard at the Pio PDP-6110FD, plasma. I really wanted a big screen and didn't want to settle for a TV screen under 60". My brother in-law just purchased a Sammy LNT5271F, LCD and I test drove it in my home for 1 week while he was on vacation. :D This Sammy LCD was AMAZING!!! He got it for a very good price too. I would have purchased it in a heart beat but I wanted a 60" or bigger screen and didn't want to settle for a 52".

So, back to the Pio plasma or the Sammy DLP. You can't compare the 2 and in the end I went with the 750A DLP. Why,
1: the Sammy 750A was a touch over 2K, the Pio was 4.5K!
2: the Pio has a very reflective screen, the Sammy doesn't
3: the TV was for my entire family that watches SD, DVD & HD. Did I really want to worry about burn-in with a plasma? No!

I purchased the Sammy, saved 2.5K, enough for a family Disney vacation:), have a really big TV with an excellent picture and don't have to worry what my family is watching and damaging the TV.

So, what I'm saying is the Sammy DLP is what it is, a 2K TV that is 61" and IMHO, produces an excellent picture (SD & HD) that rivals other display technology in PQ. A friend of mine has a Sharp Aquos LCD and the PQ SUCKS, big time. So sit back, pop some corn and enjoy the show.

If bowing can not be fixed will Samsung replace the TV?

I assume not or why would they go a second year on these flimsy cabinets. They must have RMA'd thousands last year alone. It really just makes me think they are leaving the DLP market hence it wasnt worth engineering a new cab.

The cabinet is the problem.

Maybe I'm too laid back but come on, what's with all the complaints. Yes, you purchase with your hard earned dollars and you want perfection. I understand that. You certainly don't expect or want to purchase a TV that has any major defects either. Unfortunately, some products off the assembly line are defective. But you also should realize it is what it is! A DLP 61" TV that a bit over 2K.


The industry has been producing 50" to 65" televisions for 2-3k for YEARS now. I can remember Hitachi and Mitsubishi making 57" CRT RPTVs for $2200 back in 2002! Those weren't plagued by geometry problems. Then it switched to D-ILA, SXRD, and DLP. For the most part, the majority of these televisions have been fine, but some have had MAJOR issues. Sony had the green blob problem for a year, Sammy had the light tunnel collapse on the HLS series. The 2007 and apparently the 2008 Samsung DLP's have had horrific geometry problems. I sat around for nearly a year with my HLT5076s waiting for the new models or a fix to come out, because I was in love with the PQ aside from the bowing. But after A YEAR FULL OF COMPLAINTS, Samsung couldn't engineer a case and screen that didn't distort?

It's ridiculous. And the low price doesn't justify having defective sets coming off of the lines 2 years in a row. These same CE companies were making televisions this large in this price range WITHOUT these problems years ago. Samsung has decided to make the DLP line cheap, and are going to squeeze the last bits of money they can out of the RPTV market.

I've been a big proponent of RPTV and DLP in general, I never saw the need for a flat panel television. But if they can't put out a product with good pq and without major design flaws, the only thing they have going for them is the price. And I don't know about you, but I didn't get involved in home theater to buy poor cheap products. After the past 2 years, I can't see the RPTV market surviving much longer with the quality they are putting out. I had planned on upgrading to an A650 or A750, but with these reports trickling in, I might start looking into LCD or even an SXRD set if I can find one. I don't like the idea of paying a premium to get something that can be hung on a wall, but its gotta be nice to have a picture that doesn't smile at you.

Sorry for the long rant, and that wasn't all directed at you Erock (O&A reference?). Your post just got me thinking, and how upset I am with Samsung. I'm not trying to sway anybody, just wanted to put up my opinion.

Sorry for the long rant, and that wasn't all directed at you Erock (O&A reference?). Your post just got me thinking, and how upset I am with Samsung. I'm not trying to sway anybody, just wanted to put up my opinion.

Thanks audiophile, no need to apologize to me or the threads readers (IMO). You've stated some very valid points regarding the DLP industry and Samsung. I guess that I'm just very lucky this time around.
BTW, You should also remember that those big screen CRT's were not big, they were monsters and had plenty of their own problems, convergence to be at the top.

Generally speaking I'm not an "early adopter" of technology. That's why I waited till Sammy came out with their 4th (I believe it was 4th) generation DLP, the HL-RXX67W before I purchased. I came here to AVS and other forums and read the trade & HT mags till I was satisfied that previous bugs were remedied, then made my purchase and I've been a very happy camper. When I wanted to upgrade to a larger screen I again came back to AVS and read the HT mags. I originally wanted the HL-T6189S because out of all the complaints, this series seemed to have the least problems with design and had HDMI 1.3. I actually ordered the 6189S from Crutchfield but it got cancelled. I waited too long for the price to go down lower than MSRP:o When Crutchfield offered me a very good deal, I hesitated but went for it. This is a first for me and like I said, I guess I'm lucky, very lucky and greatful that my 61750A is OK.

Perhaps my TV's case is flimsy, I don't think it is. I do think that it's unfortunate that Samsung has gone after and has tried to capture the "flat panel" consumer market at the rate of dissapointing their loyal DLP customers. Yes, there have been a few Sammy DLP problems over the years, but Samsung always worked them out. It wasn't until they started to go "slim" and try to stay "slim" that problems have occured and they haven't done anything about it.

SHAME ON YOU SAMSUNG!:mad:

I've been a big proponent of RPTV and DLP in general, I never saw the need for a flat panel television. But if they can't put out a product with good pq and without major design flaws, the only thing they have going for them is the price. And I don't know about you, but I didn't get involved in home theater to buy poor cheap products. After the past 2 years, I can't see the RPTV market surviving much longer with the quality they are putting out. I had planned on upgrading to an A650 or A750, but with these reports trickling in, I might start looking into LCD or even an SXRD set if I can find one. I don't like the idea of paying a premium to get something that can be hung on a wall, but its gotta be nice to have a picture that doesn't smile at you.

Good Post. I am still waiting for my kids to get a little older before I buy a huge TV, but even if they were old enough now, I dont know what I would buy, if I could find anything. It seems that there are too many compromises with the current set of TV's going back 2 years, and maybe looking ahead 2 years....

*Edit* I just went back to look at the images turls posted again and I wonder if the poor/soft focus issue in the pictures has to do with the A750's LED settings. The A750 has user settings that allow the LEDs to be adjusted according to surrounding illumination. Turls pictures show the areas of soft focus in areas of the grid that aren't as brightly iluminated as the sharp focused areas.

Matt, if you read this could you try using the LED adjustments and then check the grid pattern again.


You lost me on this one. I took those pictures in a mostly dark room with a camera on a tripod. They aren't the greatest pictures, but the ambient light wasn't different from one section of the screen to the next? Not sure what you are talking about with different levels of illumination.

Has anyone tried connecting a computer to one of these? Wondering how much of the screen will get chopped off. Would also be a very easy way to test for smiley faces.

Yes, see post 1059.

Crutchfields deal for the 61a750 was good at 2275 free shipping and free Samsung stand. Thanks for the posts on problems. They will help me better analyze the set when the Crutch delivery company sets the thing up. I appreciate all the info and hope I DON'T have any future questions for you all, but it is nice to know this resource exists.

Well they finally got the 61a750 at my local CC as I stopped by after work today. I thought the colors looked good on the set, and I didn't notice any bowing or gemoetry problems, and I tried to look. I pressed to top of the set and while it moved ever so slightly, it didn't flex like a chewed piece of gum. I'm thinking some people onthis board are overexaggerating the gemoetry/bowing issues. While they may be there, maybe you REALLY have to look and measure to see them?

I might wait on the 67" unless if the bowing is more pronounced with it??

Also, I didn't see the link to the crutchfield website that has the stand and TV combo with free shipping and the price above. Can someone link it for me??

Well they finally got the 61a750 at my local CC as I stopped by after work today. I thought the colors looked good on the set, and I didn't notice any bowing or gemoetry problems, and I tried to look. I pressed to top of the set and while it moved ever so slightly, it didn't flex like a chewed piece of gum. I'm thinking some people onthis board are overexaggerating the gemoetry/bowing issues. While they may be there, maybe you REALLY have to look and measure to see them?

I might wait on the 67" unless if the bowing is more pronounced with it??

Also, I didn't see the link to the crutchfield website that has the stand and TV combo with free shipping and the price above. Can someone link it for me??

It's not posted on their site yet, at least it wasn't when I ordered mine over the phone on Thursday of last week. Their number is 1-888-955-6000. Make sure to mention the free stand.

Hello Everyone,
I've been reading this forum for years, but this is my first posting here (or to any forum, for that matter, so if I make any mistakes please forgive me. First I would like to say thanks to everyone here, I've learned a tremendous amount.
I received a 61A750 from the local BB on Sunday, and I would like to know if anyone that has seen this model has noticed scratches on the screen of the TV? the TV appeared factory sealed, but when we unpacked it, my brother and I noticed them immediately. They look as if someone had run a rolling pin across the screen for about a foot in the upper right corner. When the set is on, you can't see really see them , and I could probably live with them if I had to.
Other than that, the picture is beautiful (PS3 playing Blue-Ray disks), and straight as an arrow. The cabinet also seems very solid to me, much more so than the HLT5076s that it replaced (the 5076 bowed horribly on the right side).
One more question... I believe someone earlier had asked if the set was 120 hz? When I first started watching a movie on the PS3 over HDMI, the set blinked, and then the picture came back. When I pressed the info button on the remote, it said the the rate was 24hz. Does this indicate that the set is 120hz?
Thanks
-kenny

One more question... I believe someone earlier had asked if the set was 120 hz? When I first started watching a movie on the PS3 over HDMI, the set blinked, and then the picture came back. When I pressed the info button on the remote, it said the the rate was 24hz. Does this indicate that the set is 120hz?
Thanks
-kenny

I could be wrong, but I think that when the Samsung is telling you the rate, it is referring to the rate of the input, not the rate it is displaying. So if your PS3 says 24hz that refers to the signal the tv is receiving from the PS3. Then it should multiply the signal by 5 and display it at 120hz.

The tv may not actually show the display rate explicitly.

The last Sony RPTV they discontinued (61" LCD) was right next to the Sammy 61A750. I could tell right away the 120hz on the Sony, as it was very obvious compared to the TVs around it. The Sammy was not fluid like the Sony. It's like seeing the difference between a video game running at 30fps (no motion blur) and 60fps. Very obvious.

[QUOTE=kenny7410;13523645]Hello Everyone,
I received a 61A750 from the local BB on Sunday, and I would like to know if anyone that has seen this model has noticed scratches on the screen of the TV? the TV appeared factory sealed, but when we unpacked it, my brother and I noticed them immediately. They look as if someone had run a rolling pin across the screen for about a foot in the upper right corner. When the set is on, you can't see really see them , and I could probably live with them if I had to.

If you can see it at all, you should make them exchange it..there's no excuse...

In my 4 months of shopping for a TV, I noticed on several occasions that Samsung ships all of their big DLP's with the stand. Crutchfield follows this construct, but I have found that several others want to charge the 269 dollars for the stand. I'm not sure who is correct, but if you mention the free stand when you call Crutch, they give you no argument. It was the same for the 2007 models as well.

I'm usually not an early adopter, but I was looking for a replacement for my old 57" Hitachi RPTV tube TV. I got a pretty nice deal from an electronics store and decided to spring for it.

As picture quality can be (is?) a very subjective topic, I'll just say that the image in my opinion, with default out of the box settings, is fantastic. High Def content (cable and blu-ray) is amazing. Standard def is pretty good, too. While the Hitachi was a great TV, I would easily give picture quality to the Samsung (on the side, I can't believe how much picture I was missing due to the overscan settings of the Hitachi).

I ran the test screen patterns on a Sony Blu-Ray disc and did not notice any fuzziness/convergence issues. No bowing is apparent. The cross-hatch line pattern looked straight as could be from normal viewing distance; I did pause the test at this point and measured from the top of the cabinet to the top of the first horizontal line in the pattern at the far right and far left sides of the screen. The right side of the screen was about 3/32" higher than the left. The raise in the line is very gradual and for the most part was unnoticeable, even when up close to the set.

The sound from the internal speakers is, as most people would imagine, just average and does not compete with the speakers in the old Hitachi. Certainly understandable, and I guess to an extent, expected.

My only real gripe so far - I did have an "Auto Shut Off / Start Up" moment similar to what previous posters have mentioned after four hours of viewing time yesterday. It occurred during Blu-Ray playback (via HDMI input) on the PS3. I was half-asleep on the couch when it happened - as another poster mentioned, the far right light on the display ("Set will be on in approx. 15 secs.") blinked a few times and the set came back up. The TV is an an open environment on a stand, with no objects nearby that would restrict airflow other than the wall at the back of the set. I measured from the wall to a point closest to the set and came up with 4" - per the manual, it says to keep the TV at least 4" from a wall to allow for proper airflow. I have since moved the TV out to approx. 8" and have not had a recurrence since. This includes an additional four hours of TV viewing last night, and going on three hours of viewing tonight. Crossing my fingers...

In my 4 months of shopping for a TV, I noticed on several occasions that Samsung ships all of their big DLP's with the stand. Crutchfield follows this construct, but I have found that several others want to charge the 269 dollars for the stand. I'm not sure who is correct, but if you mention the free stand when you call Crutch, they give you no argument. It was the same for the 2007 models as well.

Is that true? Good to know.

I think some of the new owners or potential buyers might be confused over what geometry problems are. Imagine the ESPN ticker smiling at you. In other words, the far left and far right curl up forming a smile. In addition, a good example could be the the picture is actually off on one side, like its actually higher. On my 6176 the entire picture was actually a half inch higher on the right side so on every letterboxed movie it would look a little slanted.

So basically, If you can or cannot move the screen that doesnt really matter. It matters if you put a grid pattern on there and the lines are straight. That is what people like me are bent about.

I think some of the new owners or potential buyers might be confused over what geometry problems are. Imagine the ESPN ticker smiling at you. In other words, the far left and far right curl up forming a smile. In addition, a good example could be the the picture is actually off on one side, like its actually higher. On my 6176 the entire picture was actually a half inch higher on the right side so on every letterboxed movie it would look a little slanted.

So basically, If you can or cannot move the screen that doesnt really matter. It matters if you put a grid pattern on there and the lines are straight. That is what people like me are bent about.

Exactly. I measured the bowing on mine today. It is 1/8". Amazing how noticeable 1/8 of inch is. The wife says it doesn't bother her. But now that I know it is there, it is driving me nuts.

I just got a HL61A750 from BB today. I already had the restart issue happen twice while watching Bladerunner on a PS3 via HDMI. Havent seen the issue while watching DirectTV via HDMI or using the XBox360 via component. I also dont remember seeing the issue while monkeying around in the PS3s menus.

The last Sony RPTV they discontinued (61" LCD) was right next to the Sammy 61A750. I could tell right away the 120hz on the Sony, as it was very obvious compared to the TVs around it. The Sammy was not fluid like the Sony. It's like seeing the difference between a video game running at 30fps (no motion blur) and 60fps. Very obvious.

Most people don't like the artifacts that the creation of intermediary frames generates. All the DLP I have ever seen does motion fluidly, although there is no getting around how a true 24 frame source looks.

Exactly. I measured the bowing on mine today. It is 1/8". Amazing how noticeable 1/8 of inch is. The wife says it doesn't bother her. But now that I know it is there, it is driving me nuts.

I'm with you, it is noticable, not something that just shows when I measure it. Obviously some have a higher tolerance for it than others. It also depends what sources you use. There is no "overexaggeration" about it. Its up to your tolerance and sources.

If it doesn't bother you, well hopefully you end up with the smiley sets and don't care.

I'm with you, it is noticable, not something that just shows when I measure it. Obviously some have a higher tolerance for it than others. It also depends what sources you use. There is no "overexaggeration" about it. Its up to your tolerance and sources.

If it doesn't bother you, well hopefully you end up with the smiley sets and don't care.

I can probably deal with a little smiley face more than the screen being tilted by a half inch on one side. Now, can the tilt be adjusted? My guess is probably because that might be due to the DMD/Mirror being knocked around in shipping so make that call to your local guy and see If they can fix that. The Smiley face, not much they can do there but I remember reading in the 2007 threads that some got it straightened out a bit so its worth a shot.

I believe someone previously asked the question as to whether Samsung would replace your set if there's a bowing issue. Is that how they handled it with the '07 models?

I believe the tilt can be adjusted to a certain degree. On the 2007 models there was a set of screws that you could slightly adjust tilt with. Some people did it on their own, others had techs come out with varying levels of sucess. I don't know if that is still the case with the 2008 models, I've yet to see one in person. Also, there is no fix for the bowing. The only option is to return/exchange for a new set, hopefully without the bowing.

I believe someone previously asked the question as to whether Samsung would replace your set if there's a bowing issue. Is that how they handled it with the '07 models?

If you just bought a new set and have problems you should exchange it at the store you purchased it from. Many were able to return or exchange their smiling sets last year to samsung, but everything I've heard said it was a royal pain to get customer service to go through with it, repeated phone calls and meaningless service visits. That was my plan until some reports started trickling in.

...I got a pretty nice deal from an electronics store and decided to spring for it....

Uh, hope I haven't missed something obvious here, but which set did you get a deal on?

I have had mine for a few days now. love the set, only problem is ive had it turn off and come back on three diff times. does anyone know if this is reason enough to have BB replace my set, as this to me seems like something that could get worse over time. is there anyone who owns one that has not had this happen?

I'm in the market for a new tv and everything I've seen shows that the samsung DLP's are the best

but now reading the forums here and how theres bowing issues I'm wondering if
Samsung HL-T6189S I was gonna buy is worth it? or should I wait for the 67" 7 series? or if I should just forget DLP altogether and buy a plasma?

any help would be greatly appreciated I didn't think buying a new tv would turn into such a headache lol

thanks in advance

I have had mine for a few days now. love the set, only problem is ive had it turn off and come back on three diff times. does anyone know if this is reason enough to have BB replace my set, as this to me seems like something that could get worse over time. is there anyone who owns one that has not had this happen?

Wow. This is some pretty disturbing news. It seems like almost everyone who owns this TV in this thread has had this happen repeatedly. I'm getting kind of nervous now and don't know weather to buy this tv or not. I agree with the question "Has anyone NOT had this happen that owns a series 7?"

Also, do you think this kind of issue is fixable through a firmware update?

Wow. This is some pretty disturbing news. It seems like almost everyone who owns this TV in this thread has had this happen repeatedly. I'm getting kind of nervous now and don't know weather to buy this tv or not. I agree with the question "Has anyone NOT had this happen that owns a series 7?"

Also, do you think this kind of issue is fixable through a firmware update?

We have had our 61A750 since Saturday and it has experienced no such problem whatsoever. It has worked perfectly. I have not read this thread as saying anything other than that only a few people have reported experiencing the power down issue.

At this point we have no complaints about the TV whatsoever.

As for the supposed geometry or bowing issues, maybe we got a "good" set or maybe we are just not sensitive to the problem. Either way, we are very happy with the picture quality and are not about to nitpick it or go out of our way looking for reasons to dislike it.

Either way, we are very happy with the picture quality and are not about to nitpick it or go out of our way looking for reasons to dislike it.

I'm not either. I am so excited about this TV and as i've said several times in this thread I'm going to buy it no matter what. I don't think the bowing and flimsy cabinet will bother me in the least. It's just that if you look at the past few pages at LEAST 5 seperate owners of this set have all mentioned this "turning off and on" problem. That has me worried, that's all.

Are there any professional reviews of the HL61A750 or HL67A750 yet?... I'd really like to see some "non-opinion" bassed review of color gamut, 120hz vs 60hz, etc, etc.


Basically.... I might be getting a free replacement TV from Best Buy for a lemon exchange on my Mits WD-52525. From reading about 10% of this thread I know there can be some issues with geometry, but I would probably say my 52525 had that anyway and it never really bothered me unless I was looking at my DVE screens...... but I don't just watch my DVE disc so normal viewing and playing games I'd probably never notice... just like don't notice on my 52525.

If there's a better suggestion for me than the HL61A750 please let me know... as I'd prefer to stay DLP and I'd really like to get an LED version so I don't have to worry about the lamp anymore.

Wow. This is some pretty disturbing news. It seems like almost everyone who owns this TV in this thread has had this happen repeatedly. I'm getting kind of nervous now and don't know weather to buy this tv or not. I agree with the question "Has anyone NOT had this happen that owns a series 7?"

Also, do you think this kind of issue is fixable through a firmware update?
It hasn't happened to me but I'm not running anything over HDMI yet.

I have had mine for a few days now. love the set, only problem is ive had it turn off and come back on three diff times. does anyone know if this is reason enough to have BB replace my set, as this to me seems like something that could get worse over time. is there anyone who owns one that has not had this happen?

This is happening on Samsung 650 series LCD's (LNxxA650) as well... See the links in my signature for a spreadsheet we've been maintaining. So it seems to be a very widespread problem across Samsungs 2008 TV lineup.

You lost me on this one. I took those pictures in a mostly dark room with a camera on a tripod. They aren't the greatest pictures, but the ambient light wasn't different from one section of the screen to the next? Not sure what you are talking about with different levels of illumination.

Matt,
the 750A has the abilty for the user to change the way the LEDs react/adjust to the way the picture being displayed on the screen is illuminated. When I said, "surrounding ilumination", I was talking about the displayed picture, "on screen", not the ambient light of room that you took the pictures in. That's why I didn't say ambient light. The surrounding illumination is the lighting of the picture. The grid pattern that is in 750A's service menu might not have been taken in a room or area that provided full & even light exposure. The picture shows shadowing. This isn't from your pictures but how the grid pattern was created.

Example: when a still picture is taken, sometimes the photographer purposely creates a shadow area for highlighting by not evenly lighting the subject. That's why professional photographers use light meters, light umbrellas and other gadgets.

I was suggesting that you try to change the LED adjustment on your 750A. I believe the settings are: auto, high, medium, and low. Change the setting one at a time and then go back and check the grid pattern to see if the soft focus changes.

I just got a HL61A750 from BB today. I already had the restart issue happen twice while watching Bladerunner on a PS3 via HDMI. Havent seen the issue while watching DirectTV via HDMI or using the XBox360 via component. I also dont remember seeing the issue while monkeying around in the PS3s menus.

I'm curious is any of these spurious power-off events seem to coincide with remote control key presses from these other devices which are connected to the TV at the time the Sammy powers off and back on.

It hasn't happened to me but I'm not running anything over HDMI yet.

Is it just HDMI, or HDMI to a PS3 where people are seeing this shutdown problem?

I'm curious is any of these spurious power-off events seem to coincide with remote control key presses from these other devices which are connected to the TV at the time the Sammy powers off and back on.

I don't think so. I only have a xbox 360 harmony remote and logitech ps3 keyboard out and wasn't actively using either. All the other remotes are in a drawer, so I doubt they could be doing anything random.

As I said, I only seem to being seeing the resets when running 1080p @ 24hrz via hdmi. And they seem to occur ever 30-45mins.

Played Rainbow6 and Universe at War for several hours last night on the 360 via component with no issues. And watched an episode of heroes on the hddvd drive for the 360 without a reset.

Whether I'm lucky or not, I don't know. What I do know is that my family and I have been viewing the HL61750A since late Saturday and we all love it!!!:D

I do not own a PS3 or XBox so I can't comment on any of the issues some folks have reported that have these consoles connected to it. I would like to know if anyone that has a PS3, has it connected first to a Audio/Video receiver via HDMI and then to the 750A via HDMI and has also experienced any problems? Or is it just 750A owners that have their PS3 consoles connected directly to the 750A via HDMI that have experienced the issues? I think this is important to find out if anyone wants to properly troubleshoot the problems and determine who or what the culprit is.

Back to my 750A. My set does not have any bowing or geometry issues. All pictures displayed on-screen are even without one side being higher or lower than another. No "smiley" faces on anything that has been on-screen either. Not the OS TV Guide, not the ESPN or other channel bars, etc.

The TV sitting on the Sammy stand is beautiful off and on. The PQ using "out of the box" settings is stunning, simply stunning. All colors are natural but still have that POP! The whites can be blinding and the blacks are the blackest I've seen and I've looked good and hard at Pio's Kuro plasma line. Put the white & black on the same screen and it's a WOW!!!

Example: If anyone has the BBC version of Planet Earth in HD (I do), you know the opening sequence of the earth coming from total darkness to being iluminated by the sun, then you have the black background with the BBC in white. This shot is simply amazing and clearly shows just how well the 750A displays white & black.

Last evening the wife & I watched CSI Miami in HD. Again, simply stunning. Perhaps the "greens" of the foliage were a bit too green. I will wait to log some hours on the TV before running my HD-DVE and calibrate it. Anyway, the evening before I worked late and my wife watched a lot of her SD shows. Her words to describe SD channels were "I thought I was watching HD on a few of the channels and the others looked very good too, not HD, but very good." Another good comment from the wife was, "this TV's size is just perfect for our room. It is really like watching a movie in the theater."

My 10 year old is loving the 750A. She is currently into the original Star Trek TV series and got the entire set on SD DVD. As with all our other SD DVDs, our Tosh XA2 paired with the 750A makes all of them look amazing, very much like HD. When the XA2 was connected to our original 720p Sammy DLP they looked good, but not this good.

So to anyone who is thinking about purchasing a 750A, I'm very satisfied and think it's great!

What you might want to do is:
1: calculate how many folks so far have had real issues on this thread .vs how many haven't.
2: How many folks aren't as "critical" to some of the discussed issues. One thread member said he wasn't aware of the geometry problem until he went into the SM and pulled up the grid image. Others said the 1/32" the set was off wasn't noticable.
3:Knowing that the flimsy case issue is totally dependant on the individual judging it.
3: Knowing that there have been some sets with real bowing & geometry problems but are you willing to chance it and return the set if any of these problems exist?

Either way, I wish everyone the best of luck or whatever it is!
Cheers,
Eric :D

P.S. After I've logged some hours on the 750A, I will run my HD-DVE and report back settings.

Is it just HDMI, or HDMI to a PS3 where people are seeing this shutdown problem?

I have only seen it with the PS3 playing blu-rays. I also have my H20 directtv box hooked up via HDMI and have not seen a reset while watching it.

Are there any professional reviews of the HL61A750 or HL67A750 yet?... I'd really like to see some "non-opinion" bassed review of color gamut, 120hz vs 60hz, etc, etc.

I doubt you'll see a professional review anytime soon. My guess is that reviewers will gravitate towards reviewing the new plasma and LCD releases before they get to RPTV.

I'm curious is any of these spurious power-off events seem to coincide with remote control key presses from these other devices which are connected to the TV at the time the Sammy powers off and back on.

Both of mine happened in the middle of playing games. One was on the 360 via component and one on the PS3 via HDMI. I didn't touch the remote at all.

We have had our 61A750 since Saturday and it has experienced no such problem whatsoever. It has worked perfectly. I have not read this thread as saying anything other than that only a few people have reported experiencing the power down issue.

At this point we have no complaints about the TV whatsoever.

As for the supposed geometry or bowing issues, maybe we got a "good" set or maybe we are just not sensitive to the problem. Either way, we are very happy with the picture quality and are not about to nitpick it or go out of our way looking for reasons to dislike it.

X2:)

I'm not either. I am so excited about this TV and as i've said several times in this thread I'm going to buy it no matter what. I don't think the bowing and flimsy cabinet will bother me in the least. It's just that if you look at the past few pages at LEAST 5 seperate owners of this set have all mentioned this "turning off and on" problem. That has me worried, that's all.

There's 2 seperate things going on the turning on and off, and the going to black screen issue. Seems to me they could be related. I think it would be helpful if everybody who sees either issue documents in this thread:

what source it was
details on what "info" tells you about the source including res and hz

I think most have been PS3 (was it playing a game or watching a bluray?), but some haven't said what source it happens on.

I would think Sammy would stand behind this issue and fix it, whether widespread or not, whether firmware or not, but I haven't dealt with them in a few years. Might help if we can determine a pattern.

EDIT: Looks like somebody is way ahead of me with the submission form, but not all the options are there for DLP owners.

Whether I'm lucky or not, I don't know. What I do know is that my family and I have been viewing the HL61750A since late Saturday and we all love it!!!:D

I do not own a PS3 or XBox so I can't comment on any of the issues some folks have reported that have these consoles connected to it. I would like to know if anyone that has a PS3, has it connected first to a Audio/Video receiver via HDMI and then to the 750A via HDMI and has also experienced any problems? Or is it just 750A owners that have their PS3 consoles connected directly to the 750A via HDMI that have experienced the issues? I think this is important to find out if anyone wants to properly troubleshoot the problems and determine who or what the culprit is.

Back to my 750A. My set does not have any bowing or geometry issues. All pictures displayed on-screen are even without one side being higher or lower than another. No "smiley" faces on anything that has been on-screen either. Not the OS TV Guide, not the ESPN or other channel bars, etc.

The TV sitting on the Sammy stand is beautiful off and on. The PQ using "out of the box" settings is stunning, simply stunning. All colors are natural but still have that POP! The whites can be blinding and the blacks are the blackest I've seen and I've looked good and hard at Pio's Kuro plasma line. Put the white & black on the same screen and it's a WOW!!!

Example: If anyone has the BBC version of Planet Earth in HD (I do), you know the opening sequence of the earth coming from total darkness to being iluminated by the sun, then you have the black background with the BBC in white. This shot is simply amazing and clearly shows just how well the 750A displays white & black.

Last evening the wife & I watched CSI Miami in HD. Again, simply stunning. Perhaps the "greens" of the foliage were a bit too green. I will wait to log some hours on the TV before running my HD-DVE and calibrate it. Anyway, the evening before I worked late and my wife watched a lot of her SD shows. Her words to describe SD channels were "I thought I was watching HD on a few of the channels and the others looked very good too, not HD, but very good." Another good comment from the wife was, "this TV's size is just perfect for our room. It is really like watching a movie in the theater."

My 10 year old is loving the 750A. She is currently into the original Star Trek TV series and got the entire set on SD DVD. As with all our other SD DVDs, our Tosh XA2 paired with the 750A makes all of them look amazing, very much like HD. When the XA2 was connected to our original 720p Sammy DLP they looked good, but not this good.

So to anyone who is thinking about purchasing a 750A, I'm very satisfied and think it's great!

What you might want to do is:
1: calculate how many folks so far have had real issues on this thread .vs how many haven't.
2: How many folks aren't as "critical" to some of the discussed issues. One thread member said he wasn't aware of the geometry problem until he went into the SM and pulled up the grid image. Others said the 1/32" the set was off wasn't noticable.
3:Knowing that the flimsy case issue is totally dependant on the individual judging it.
3: Knowing that there have been some sets with real bowing & geometry problems but are you willing to chance it and return the set if any of these problems exist?

Either way, I wish everyone the best of luck or whatever it is!
Cheers,
Eric :D

P.S. After I've logged some hours on the 750A, I will run my HD-DVE and report back settings.

Erock1: Glad you are enjoying your 750A. Any chance you could take and post a picture of the set on the Samsung stand?

If you just bought a new set and have problems you should exchange it at the store you purchased it from. Many were able to return or exchange their smiling sets last year to samsung, but everything I've heard said it was a royal pain to get customer service to go through with it, repeated phone calls and meaningless service visits. That was my plan until some reports started trickling in.

Obviously Samsung states in the documentation call them, because they get in trouble with the retailers if everybody calls them or returns the set. That's standard in any industry lately, you are always opening boxes to big notices that say call the manufacturer not the store.

I may give Samsung one chance, but no way am I burning through my return period waiting on Samsung. . .this is the exact reason I bought from a store with a B&M presence because of my terrible experiences on DLP RP the first time around having to do everything through an internet retailer (even though they finally came through).

I haven't been able to devote the time to be on hold yet, but if anybody does call Samsung before I do, I'd love to hear their response.

As for the supposed geometry or bowing issues, maybe we got a "good" set or maybe we are just not sensitive to the problem. Either way, we are very happy with the picture quality and are not about to nitpick it or go out of our way looking for reasons to dislike it.As this is an enthusiasts site with Science in its name I think it serves no purpose calling geometry issues "supposed" especially when people go to the length of posting actual images of the issue.

One's tolerance to such issues or whether your unit escapes them doesn't lesson the seriousness for others who aren't as lucky. Of course all issues should be keep in context but this comes by examining them rather than saying they don't bother me so they don't exist.

Before I purchased my set I came to this thread looking for known issues. By simply viewing the set in the store (although they didn't even have it on display when I purchased it) one can only learn only so much. Shared experiences serve many purposes with the two most obvious being whether one should purchase the product (taken into account their own needs) and develops a baseline of what one should expect performance wise.

The fact that neither of the component inputs worked on my set and there are small flecks of dirt behind the screen serves to help define the baseline for others. I appreciate others sharing their own experiences as it helps me in deciding if my replacement set meets my level of expectation based on combined experiences.

Now I'll go back to waiting for them to deliver the replacement. :)

Has anyone confirmed DC4 yet through the service menu?

Also, does anyone know when the 67" will be released (sooner than June?)

Obviously Samsung states in the documentation call them, because they get in trouble with the retailers if everybody calls them or returns the set. That's standard in any industry lately, you are always opening boxes to big notices that say call the manufacturer not the store.I called Samsung last Sunday morning (I was very surprised they were there) to see if I was doing anything stupid regarding the component inputs not working.

I ended up going to second level support... and if you tried both inputs with two sources it must be an issue with the set. I also asked her about the small flecks of dirt behind the screen and she instantly stated it might be cosmetic (hinting if it was too bad).

I know they aren't going to resolve anything over the phone. I'm sure if you have an issue they will send someone out but I think you'll find their level of expectation fairly low (generally speaking from past experiences).

Your friend will be your dealer or at least they should be. At a minimum they have a vested interest in you keeping the set. Once I talked to Samsung I called Best Buy and they offered two options...

1. Since I just received the set I could call their 800 number to schedule an express service call.

2. Have the set swapped. They even agreed to swap it for free (waived the delivery fee) as I picked up the original set.

Since you have a 30-day return window if at all possible I would swap sets. Many years ago I had a front projector issue (back when they were expensive!) and at one point my dealer stated they would give me my money back or I could keep the projector and let the manufacturer resolve the issue.

Well I didn't want the dealer to have to eat the projector so I said I would keep it. Many months later it was never resolved and the manufacturer didn't even live up to their written agreement (per their employee's email) so I learned my lesson rather painfully.

Be sure to have a good return policy and don't be afraid to use it. :)

Has anyone confirmed DC4 yet through the service menu?

Also, does anyone know when the 67" will be released (sooner than June?)
I've navigated the service menu on the 6 series and can't figure out what to look for. If someone wants to tell me what I need to look for or where, I will do it. Especially since I am about to exchange this set anyway.

Be sure to have a good return policy and don't be afraid to use it. :)
Good point. This is precisely why I purchased my TV from a B&M that I could physically go to. It may cost a bit more, but that's insurance for me. And in this case, I am heading back to CC tonight to replace the set due to bowing, I can clearly see it, and I see it when I apply the grid and Horiz/Vert bars in the service menu.

The CC store agreed to take out the new TV for me and plug a video source into it to insure that the TV was working properly, so I don't have to keep playing this game.

I love the PQ on this TV and I really want to keep it. I just wish it was LED rather than Lamp.

I'm thankful that everyone here has posted their opinions and stories. It has helped to know what to look for, and given me options for what to do in the case where things go wrong.

I've had the HL61A750 for a week now - see previous postings. To repeat, I've had no problems. My wife says we don't watch a TV anymore, now we watch movies. It's better than going to a theater.

I'm running all input through a Yamaha receiver, with a single hdmi cable to the TV. 61" at 10' distance is perfect.

I've navigated the service menu on the 6 series and can't figure out what to look for. If someone wants to tell me what I need to look for or where, I will do it. Especially since I am about to exchange this set anyway.

Ok, great, because everything on the regular service menu has been posted here. All the info there was posted days ago (its inconclusive I guess). Except the "expert" settings. So please enable those and post what else pops up. I already stated I was too chicken to try it on mine. . .at least until I get the swap setup.

I beleive Samsung would consider the number of returns due to defects and service calls after two weeks on a market to incorporate upgrades in new firmware or at least account in 67 and 72" models coming out in few months. Small problems are usually amplified in larger sets, and people with higher budget for TV and space to put it in, would have additional voice for corporate Samsung to hear.

Sennat, I am glad to hear positive experience over few days of use. As LCD table suggests ON OFF problems usually developed over 2-3 week time period.
I hope it is not the trend here, but we must be aware of it.

Looks like the 50", 56", and 61" versions of the A650's have popped up on BestBuy's website, as well as the 61" of the A750. They aren't coming up as available at any stores in my area (Kansas City). As soon as they start showing up, I'll go judge for myself.

I'm happy for all of you that have gotten sets without issue. Hopefully we'll hear more reports of that than the contrary.

Is the A750 all black or is the bottom part silver?
Some pictures the bottom strip looks silver, maybe that's a reflection.

Is the A750 all black or is the bottom part silver?
Some pictures the bottom strip looks silver, maybe that's a reflection.

From what I remember after looking at the TV at CC yesterday, the TV front bezel is nearly all shiny black, with the bottom part you mentioned a dark silver. I think it looks nice, but I would have settled with flat black too.

Best Buy dropped off the replacement and I fired up the service menu grid and it was much worse than my original unit. Both the tilt and convergence were a large percentage worse. I'd say the tilt was roughly 3 or so pixels more and the right side of the image the pixels were out of alignment by another pixel or so.

Anyway I tried hooking up a component source and it didn't work either with the same Mode Not Supported. So I had the delivery guys get my original set off of the truck and bring it back. :)

I checked real quickly and saw a few flecks behind the replacement set's screen as well. So I'm guessing I got a better than average set the first time.

To cap it off I tried another set of component cables and the component input worked great! I have been using the other set for years and right up until now with my previous set.

So now I guess it's up to whether I can live with the flecks, see if they can remove them or punt as again I think I have a better than average sample.

Ok, great, because everything on the regular service menu has been posted here. All the info there was posted days ago (its inconclusive I guess). Except the "expert" settings. So please enable those and post what else pops up. I already stated I was too chicken to try it on mine. . .at least until I get the swap setup.
What better time to experiment if you are getting a replacement unit!

Single-panel DLP® design—crystal-clear picture
without any possibility of convergence errors

From Samsung site....I am confused b/c I thought this referred to geometry issues that would be fixed by this. But obviously, alot of ppl are still having that problem so what gives???

Or if it doesn't refer to geometry what does it actually mean?

Ok, there seems to be a number of things that folks should do to test out all aspects to this new TV. As an pleased owner of a HL61A750 DLP, maybe there are a set of procedures that one or more folks can describe to test out all of the areas of these TVs. I'm thinking of things that all can do to see if they are bow, smile, framing flexibility, and such issues. I realize that the inputs are more difficult to test consistently since we all won't have the same equipment.

If we can get a fairly detailed set of steps to do, I'd be willing to do this. However, since I'm booked until Thursday afternoon, it probably won't be until Friday at the earliest.

Thoughts?

Crutchfields deal for the 61a750 was good at 2275 free shipping and free Samsung stand. Thanks for the posts on problems. They will help me better analyze the set when the Crutch delivery company sets the thing up. I appreciate all the info and hope I DON'T have any future questions for you all, but it is nice to know this resource exists.

How did you find this deal Patsy? I can't find anything under 2399.

im considering getting this A750, im curious, these black flakes behind the screen, can they been seen when the set is off? or do you have to turn it on becuase i was going to just open the box in the store to check first and exchange it right there if possible... thanks

Single-panel DLP® design—crystal-clear picture
without any possibility of convergence errors

From Samsung site....I am confused b/c I thought this referred to geometry issues that would be fixed by this. But obviously, alot of ppl are still having that problem so what gives???

Or if it doesn't refer to geometry what does it actually mean?

It means that if there was 3 chips (like higher end projectors) there would be chance for the colors to not converge correctly. I think I'm the one that started the discussion about convergence--convergence in the sense that the beam isn't focused so you don't get the sharpness levels throughout the pictures that you should.

Originally there was an advantage to having multiple chips because you didn't have a color wheel. Well, you don't have color wheel or rainbows on LED sets so that advantage is theoretically nullified.

In other words--its marketing gobble-di-gook ;)

Single-panel DLP® design—crystal-clear picture
without any possibility of convergence errors

From Samsung site....I am confused b/c I thought this referred to geometry issues that would be fixed by this. But obviously, alot of ppl are still having that problem so what gives???

Or if it doesn't refer to geometry what does it actually mean?

rrock22, read jhferry's post #1141. He describes exactly what the "geometry" probelm is. Convergence as it is known with TV's, projectors, or any other type of display that uses multiple color lenses has nothing to do with this problem.

The problems that Matt (turls) exposed here as shown in his graph pictures from the service menu are a combination of the geometry problem which shows the graph as off axis and another problem with focus. IMHO, this focus problem isn't a "convergence" issue either. Again, IMHO, it's either an LCD lighting issue or a defect in the chip.

How did you find this deal Patsy? I can't find anything under 2399.

I called them and told them that I wanted one for under 2300. The sales folks have "certificates" that they can apply to make deals and then mentioned that my understanding was that the stand came free from Samsung. If you get their catalog, have it ready, as it has your customer number. The customer number may help. I have ordered things from them in the past.

im considering getting this A750, im curious, these black flakes behind the screen, can they been seen when the set is off? or do you have to turn it on becuase i was going to just open the box in the store to check first and exchange it right there if possible... thanksThe set has to be turned on to see them. They are very easy to spot with a solid white or light gray screen. The best way to check the set out (very quickly) is to enter the service mode... you just need power to the set.

1. With the set turned off press the following on the remote...

Mute - 1 - 8 - 2 - Power

2. Arrow down and select the second option
3. Select test patterns

Use the Left and Right arrow keys to cycle through the test patterns. One is gray to check for flecks and another is a grid pattern. With the grid pattern you can check for tilt and convergence issues.

It only takes of couple of minutes tops and you can see exactly how the set stacks up. I agree convergence isn't really the proper word for the issue. It's more of an issue with the three colors not aligning for a variety of reasons.

Originally there was an advantage to having multiple chips because you didn't have a color wheel. Well, you don't have color wheel or rainbows on LED sets so that advantage is theoretically nullified.

In other words--its marketing gobble-di-gook ;)

Matt, having mutiple chips has nothing to do with color wheels or rainbows. A projector that has seperate color chips (one for each of the primary colors) is advantageous and superior in many ways (lumens, image quality, contrast ratio, color, etc., etc.) to a single chip projector. Just look at the cost differences. 3 chips basiclly start at $10-15,000 and go upwards of $100,00.00, where single chips start at about $3,000.

Matt, having mutiple chips has nothing to do with color wheels or rainbows. A projector that has seperate color chips (one for each of the primary colors) is advantageous and superior in many ways (lumens, image quality, contrast ratio, color, etc., etc.) to a single chip projector. Just look at the cost differences. 3 chips basiclly start at $10-15,000 and go upwards of $100,00.00, where single chips start at about $3,000.

You're talking about contrast ratio or dollars?

So the deal seems to be so far PS3, Blu-ray @ 24 Hhz for the on/off issue. This is how I watch my blu-rays so that kind of sucks. Do all of you who are having this problum have HDMI 1.3 cables? Don't think that this would cause it but I'm just wondering. I wonder if it's the PS3 or the TV. Obviously it is the 2 of them working together I'm just wondering who has to fix the problem. I wonder if Samsung will since they usually say you have to have the problem with 2 different sources.

A projector that has seperate color chips (one for each of the primary colors) is advantageous and superior in many ways (lumens, image quality, contrast ratio, color, etc., etc.) to a single chip projector. Just look at the cost differences. 3 chips basiclly start at $10-15,000 and go upwards of $100,00.00, where single chips start at about $3,000.Basically this isn't correct. All LCD, SXRD and LCoS projectors have three chips regardless of their pricing. Which only leaves DLP as a one-chip or three-chip option. Historically the three-chip DLP projectors have been high-end and desirable more for their increased brightness than any other performance feature.

So the deal seems to be so far PS3, Blu-ray @ 24 Hhz for the on/off issue. This is how I watch my blu-rays so that kind of sucks. Do all of you who are having this problum have HDMI 1.3 cables? Don't think that this would cause it but I'm just wondering. I wonder if it's the PS3 or the TV. Obviously it is the 2 of them working together I'm just wondering who has to fix the problem. I wonder if Samsung will since they usually say you have to have the problem with 2 different sources.

I am not sure if the set is shutting down or not... the screen goes black and the LED indicator blinks. The picture comes back in about 15 seconds.

Samsung (open at 11PM Sunday!!!) told me they need two sources before a tech can come out. So far it has only happened to me with PS3 Blu-Ray and DVD movies. Have not had any problems with cable (HDMI) or PS3 games.

The issue happened on two different BD movies and a DVD movie. Initially I had the DVD being upscaled but the picture was black-boxed on all four sides so I turned off the upscaling to get the picture on the full screen. I do not remember if the issue happened with both formats or not. Formatting was probably a PS3 issue. I only tried Double Scale (I think that is what it is called) and Off... there are two other settings but we wanted to watch the movie and didn't mess aroung with the other two options.

I have inexpensive HDMI 1.3 cables that I got from Amazon.

Using the test patterns from a Sony Pictures BD (press 7669 enter at the main menu) I notice a little bowing in the bottom right and less in the top right. I don't notice this while watching tv so it isn't a problem for me.

Other than the shutdowns my wife and I are very happy with the TV.

I switched the PS3 to HDMI1 from HDMI2 but have not watched another movie to see if the issue still occurs. Cable works fine on both HDMI1 and 2.

(I posted earlier but thought I'd add a little more detail.)

I am using a 1.3 Monster cable for the PS3. Was also on HDMI2 and was going to switch to HDMI3 when I get home.

Other than the on/off issue, I have no complaints.

How did you find this deal Patsy? I can't find anything under 2399.

I can't even find it on the Crutch site. How is it listed?

For HLxxA750 owners...

How easy would it be to remove the screen and clean out the black flecks people are describing?

I ask because on my Mits WD-52525 it really wasn't hard at all and I had to do that an a few occasions to clean out dust and even when I first bought it to remove some flecks of styrofoam that had drifted into the set.

I'm wondering if anyone with the black flecks have considered simply remvoing the screen to wipe down the inside of the TV?

I can't even find it on the Crutch site. How is it listed?


It is not listed. You have to call. My order should arrive on thursday. Sometimes talking to people is better than typing.

PATSY

Basically this isn't correct. All LCD, SXRD and LCoS projectors have three chips regardless of their pricing. Which only leaves DLP as a one-chip or three-chip option. Historically the three-chip DLP projectors have been high-end and desirable more for their increased brightness than any other performance feature.

I beg to differ. LCD, SXRD & LCoS projectors are all "3 panel" projectors and not "3 chip" projectors.

You're talking about contrast ratio or dollars?

I'm talking about lumens(brightness), contrast ratio, color reproduction and cost:)

For HLxxA750 owners...

How easy would it be to remove the screen and clean out the black flecks people are describing?

I ask because on my Mits WD-52525 it really wasn't hard at all and I had to do that an a few occasions to clean out dust and even when I first bought it to remove some flecks of styrofoam that had drifted into the set.

I'm wondering if anyone with the black flecks have considered simply remvoing the screen to wipe down the inside of the TV?


Did it already. Mine had a big fleck accross the top of the screen when I brought it home. I just removed the two side access panels and wiped it off. Easy as pie. It was a piece of plastic shavings tiny but looked big on the screen. :)

So the deal seems to be so far PS3, Blu-ray @ 24 Hhz for the on/off issue. This is how I watch my blu-rays so that kind of sucks. Do all of you who are having this problum have HDMI 1.3 cables? Don't think that this would cause it but I'm just wondering. I wonder if it's the PS3 or the TV. Obviously it is the 2 of them working together I'm just wondering who has to fix the problem. I wonder if Samsung will since they usually say you have to have the problem with 2 different sources.

I had the problem with my Xbox 360 using component cables. So it's not just HDMI. It happened with my PS3 during a game. No problems so far with 24hz movies, I've watched four already without a problem. Both 360 and PS3 are hooked up directly to the TV.

I beg to differ. LCD, SXRD & LCoS projectors are all "3 panel" projectors and not "3 chip" projectors.Per JVC which more or less invented LCoS (with another company)...

"With 1080P HD-ILA, 3 D-ILA Chips are used, each containing over 2 million pixels each, in a 1920 x 1080 configuration."

http://www.jvc.com/presentations/HDILA/drawbacks.html

Here is a quick URL for LCD... I'm sure there are better ones.

3-Chip LCD projection uses 3 LCDs. In this type of projection, the white beam is divided into 3 separate color beams that are spatially separated and each of the beams is hitting then a dedicated LCD.

http://64.233.167.104/search?q=cache:WHVqeCXlIZUJ:www.barco.com/projection_systems/downloads/White_paper_1-gle_chip_DLP_versus_3_chip_LCD4.pdf+lcd+3+chips&hl=en&ct=clnk&cd=11&gl=us

For HLxxA750 owners...

How easy would it be to remove the screen and clean out the black flecks people are describing?I'll find out Thursday when the service man arrives. :)

I found it rather interesting in the manual where they state if you face the set front down you might get objects attached to the inner screen. Why design something so silly... I'm sure there is a reason but it escapes me.

Before I purchase the a750, I was wondering If I would encounter any bluring during fast action sports like flat panel lcd's? I know this tv has 120hz, but i thought dlp tv's did not have "the blur". Therefore why the need for the 120hz?

Before I purchase the a750, I was wondering If I would encounter any bluring during fast action sports like flat panel lcd's? I know this tv has 120hz, but i thought dlp tv's did not have "the blur". Therefore why the need for the 120hz?
You shouldn't. DLp has 16 microsecond response time. Flat panel LCDs tend to be somewhere near the 8 millisecond mark.

thanks NDRugby

Did it already. Mine had a big fleck accross the top of the screen when I brought it home. I just removed the two side access panels and wiped it off. Easy as pie. It was a piece of plastic shavings tiny but looked big on the screen. :)


Thanks for the info... I figured it would be pretty easy (or at least I was hoping it would be).

Black flecks are no longer a problem then... I think it's common on DLP since there's a big open space for dust and flecks to show up. I can see it being a problem for those that dont' want to open up the set, but I feel it's just standard cleaning to do that.

If we could just figure out this turn off issue and input not working issues I'd be happy with getting one.

For those that have had the on/off issue... are you using a surge protector or not? I ask because I've heard some electronics don't respond well to surge protectors, lol. Kinda of a catch 22 thing.

TK.

Uh, hope I haven't missed something obvious here, but which set did you get a deal on?

In all my excitement I forgot to post the model number ;)

HL61A750.

So the deal seems to be so far PS3, Blu-ray @ 24 Hhz for the on/off issue. This is how I watch my blu-rays so that kind of sucks. Do all of you who are having this problum have HDMI 1.3 cables? Don't think that this would cause it but I'm just wondering. I wonder if it's the PS3 or the TV. Obviously it is the 2 of them working together I'm just wondering who has to fix the problem. I wonder if Samsung will since they usually say you have to have the problem with 2 different sources.

I have the HL61750A...

In my one power off/on situation, I was watching a Blu-Ray movie - 1920 x 1080 @ 24Hz. The playback device was a PS3, and is connected to HDMI Input 2 via an Acoustics Research PR185 cable (Simplay verified).

Since the one incident, I have moved the TV further away from the wall such that the closest point now is 8" to the wall (previously the closest point was 4" from the wall). I don't think heat is the issue, as the TV is in a very open environment.

I'll have to do some more Blu-Ray viewing at that resolution to see if it may trigger a power cycle. I've made it thru about three hours of Blu-Ray movies so far. No other issues from the other 10+ hours of viewing over cable (SD and HD).

Just to reiterate a previous post of mine, I think the TV is fantastic. To quote my wife (she's currently watching American Idol)..."It's kind of creepy when you can see a person's arm hair on this TV." :)

OK I went to Best Buy today after work again to look at the 61A750. Like my Sony LCD RPTV, the viewing angle is just OK, but I'm used to it. The LCD TVs they had there were obviously noticably better on PQ, brightness, and viewing angles, but they costed a lot more, and were smaller. I tried to look for bowing or other problems but couldn't really find any. I asked the sales guy if I could play with the brightness of the TV, and contrast, and he said OK. By default, the brightness was at like 45/100 and the contrast 94/100. I turned the brightness up to 60 and it did look better.

Overall, I was pleased with what I saw, but still want to wait for the 67" TV. I thought the set looked good enough for me to be happy about it. The Sony with the 120hz looked real nice with the fluid motion though, I have to get over that (I don't like that it's a bulb, and the casing looks wierd). My current Sony RPTV also has major overscan issues that cannot be fixed ... the Sammy has justscan, which is very important to me.

For those that have had the on/off issue... are you using a surge protector or not? I ask because I've heard some electronics don't respond well to surge protectors, lol. Kinda of a catch 22 thing.



Surge protector here - one of the older Monster Power Centers...

I'm somebody who's seriously considering buying the HL61A750. I wanted to know how good it upscales anything that isn't 1080p. For example, I'm a big gamer....most next-gen games are in 720p. Does the 61A750 upscale it to 1080p without losing PQ???

So the Sony a3000 has 10-bit and x.v./deep color

So does the A-750 benefit from 10-but or no?!?!

LED question....

I know the LED lasts around 60,000 hours.... but, can the LED be replaced further down the road like the bulbs?... or will the TV be basically dead if it goes out or gets too dark from age?

For those that have had the on/off issue... are you using a surge protector or not? I ask because I've heard some electronics don't respond well to surge protectors, lol. Kinda of a catch 22 thing.

TK.


IM using a Monster HDP 2400.

...I know the LED lasts around 60,000 hours.... but, can the LED be replaced further down the road like the bulbs?...

It's part of the light engine, and therefore a very expensive repair needing a professional. On an old set it's obviously not worth it.

It's part of the light engine, and therefore a very expensive repair needing a professional. On an old set it's obviously not worth it.

Another thing...

I mean...let's be real...60000 hours is a LOT of use. If you kept your TV powered on for 24 hours a day for 2,500 days (over 8 years) that would equal 60,000 hours.

Another thing...

I mean...let's be real...60000 hours is a LOT of use. If you kept your TV powered on for 24 hours a day for 2,500 days (over 8 years) that would equal 60,000 hours.
It's late so if I'm wrong that's why... but 24 hours per day for 2,500 days would be only 6.85 years not over 8 years. Still a long time @ 24 hours/day.

Hello folks. Interested in this TV so just wanted to subscribe to the thread to stay updated. I've got my fingers crossed this TV is good as I don't wanna go LCD or Plasma. I'm also hoping to get rid of my current 51" sony crt rp unit. Although it still looks stunning for movies/games it looks absolute crap for PC use due to the interlacing. Ahh, enough rambling I'm gonna read the last few pages or so.

Matt, having mutiple chips has nothing to do with color wheels or rainbows. A projector that has seperate color chips (one for each of the primary colors) is advantageous and superior in many ways (lumens, image quality, contrast ratio, color, etc., etc.) to a single chip projector. Just look at the cost differences. 3 chips basiclly start at $10-15,000 and go upwards of $100,00.00, where single chips start at about $3,000.

It doesn't? Since when?

http://www.ultimateavmag.com/videoprojectors/406sim/

"Three-chip configurations not only eliminate rainbows—no color wheel—but serve up a brighter image as well."

Most people don't like the artifacts that the creation of intermediary frames generates. All the DLP I have ever seen does motion fluidly, although there is no getting around how a true 24 frame source looks.

Is the "120 HZ color engine" in the Samsung specs something different than the 120HZ for motion smoothness? I see that the inputs accepted only go up to 60 HZ. If they mean the same thing, does that mean that the TV tuner will do 120 but won't for any external device?

P.S. For those agonizing over the flaws in what seems like our best choice right now (LED DLP), remember that the Mitsu lazer DLP countdown is on! (I read 1-2 months for size/price details & perhaps 6 months for some high end availability).
I even saw a story that Samsung was looking at the tech. That could help explain why this years models are just an "incremental" increase in specs. They might be working on that NOW instead of tweaking LED anymore.
With the flaws in alot of units, the Pip/digital issue and now 120HZ disappointment (I guess), I'm starting to go back to my thinking when I 1st read the CES '08 stories... be patient.. but BRING ON THE LAZERS!
Then watch...I'll wait all that time and they'll cost way too much even tho they are supposed to cost less to make 'em :-( We just have to wait n see.

Regarding my 120 HZ question, I meant to quote BOTH previous comments. Here is the other: Also shouldn't 60 fps be better than 30?
Originally Posted by CyberCT
The last Sony RPTV they discontinued (61" LCD) was right next to the Sammy 61A750. I could tell right away the 120hz on the Sony, as it was very obvious compared to the TVs around it. The Sammy was not fluid like the Sony. It's like seeing the difference between a video game running at 30fps (no motion blur) and 60fps. Very obvious.

We have had the 61" HL61A50 since Sunday. It has a fabulous picture, was easy to set up, is easy to use and has performed flawlessly. No issue with turning on and off, no apparent bowing or similar problems and no visible particles showing through the screen. We have it connected via two seperate HDMI cables to a HD Charter cable DVR box and a Samsung DVD player with upscaling. All pictures are outstanding, especially the HD cable channels. Have watched movies via the DVD player, television (both HD and regular) including a couple basketball games where it was like being in the arena. Everything looks great. As someone said it is like being at the movies - picture is sharp and bright. We also have a Sony Bravia LCD - it also has a great picture, but I think the Samsung is perhaps a little better, but hard to say for sure. In any case, our experience with the Samsung is all positive so far. I live in Southern California and saw nothing comparable for the price in any of the stores I checked - Frys, Best Buy, Costco, Circuit City, Ken Crane's, Howards, etc. This set is fine if you want a large screen with an excellent picture at a decent price.

[QUOTE= P.S. For those agonizing over the flaws in what seems like our best choice right now (LED DLP), remember that the Mitsu lazer DLP countdown is on! (I read 1-2 months for size/price details & perhaps 6 months for some high end availability).
[/QUOTE]

i wouldnt get to excited about laser tv just yet. at the LA show they would nto give exact prices on the 61 in tvs ( maybe it was 65 i forget ) but in either case, they did say that pricing would be equal to that of the same size flat pannel... so what that really means is the mitsubishi 61 or 65 in is going to be minimum 5000 bucks when it comes out.. ( atleast personally ive not seen a flat panel 65 in for under 5k )

so just wanted to throw that out there. I play on getting the A750 in a few weeks only becuase i dont have 5000 bucks to dish out for a brand new laser tv, even if it seems it might be worth that =)

i wouldnt get to excited about laser tv just yet. at the LA show they would nto give exact prices on the 61 in tvs ( maybe it was 65 i forget ) but in either case, they did say that pricing would be equal to that of the same size flat pannel... so what that really means is the mitsubishi 61 or 65 in is going to be minimum 5000 bucks when it comes out.. ( atleast personally ive not seen a flat panel 65 in for under 5k )

so just wanted to throw that out there. I play on getting the A750 in a few weeks only becuase i dont have 5000 bucks to dish out for a brand new laser tv, even if it seems it might be worth that =)
What's the model number on these? If it's the WD-65736, I've seen it for pre-order on 2 sites for under $2000, but I can't find any info on that TV.

Per JVC which more or less invented LCoS (with another company)...

"With 1080P HD-ILA, 3 D-ILA Chips are used, each containing over 2 million pixels each, in a 1920 x 1080 configuration."

http://www.jvc.com/presentations/HDILA/drawbacks.html

Here is a quick URL for LCD... I'm sure there are better ones.

3-Chip LCD projection uses 3 LCDs. In this type of projection, the white beam is divided into 3 separate color beams that are spatially separated and each of the beams is hitting then a dedicated LCD.

http://64.233.167.104/search?q=cache:WHVqeCXlIZUJ:www.barco.com/projection_systems/downloads/White_paper_1-gle_chip_DLP_versus_3_chip_LCD4.pdf+lcd+3+chips&hl=en&ct=clnk&cd=11&gl=us

Thanks Charles, I appreciate the info & links.:)
Good luck on your 750A. let us know what happens when the tech visits.

First, I would like to apologize to the participants of this thread for taking it way off topic. I promise, this will be the last off topic post:)

The link to the article you provided is a good article, a bit dated, 2006 but a good article none the less. It's interesting that you choose it, as the author is in the very small minority camp that is effected by rainbows. Once you go beyond this author's personal problem, the rest of the article is about a $20K projector's superior performance.

It doesn't? Since when?

http://www.ultimateavmag.com/videoprojectors/406sim/

"Three-chip configurations not only eliminate rainbows—no color wheel—but serve up a brighter image as well."



Matt,
I highly doubt that the majority of people who have bought or will buy expensive 3 chip DLP projector is because it will eliminate the "rainbow" effect." The majority of people aren't effected by rainbows to begin with. Your original post below indicates, to me at least that you are saying the main reason for 3 chip is to eliminate rainbows. You also say, "originally there was an advantage", as if a 3 chip projector no longer has any advantages. It was that statement that I was replying to. My reply was to indicate this and that the main advantage is a 3 chip provides a superior performance.

I also would like to know anyone that owns a LED based DLP see rainbows? You also seem to say that rainbows can still effect some people with a LED DLP as you said, "Well, you don't have color wheel or rainbows on LED sets so that advantage is theoretically nullified."

In other words, you post an article to try and prove your point that 3 chip projectors exist mainly to eliminate a color wheel and rainbows and then you make another statement saying that by eliminating a color wheel and rainbows this main advantage is only, "gobble-di-gook"?


Originally there was an advantage to having multiple chips because you didn't have a color wheel. Well, you don't have color wheel or rainbows on LED sets so that advantage is theoretically nullified.

In other words--its marketing gobble-di-gook ;)

I am buying my 61A750 Friday at CC. I am going to test it out and see how I like it and see if there are any issues. I will let everyone know if I come across anything. If there is anything specific I can do for anyone once I have the TV let me know. Thanks!

I am buying my 61A750 Friday at CC. I am going to test it out and see how I like it and see if there are any issues. I will let everyone know if I come across anything. If there is anything specific I can do for anyone once I have the TV let me know. Thanks!

I'll most likely beat you to the punch. I'm probably going to buy the 61A750 from Best Buy today.

You have to understand I go back on these to before there was an LED option. I've had a DLP RP since 2002, and I definitely see rainbows. As I've posted here before, it was never a big deal to me, but the most interesting thing was I "got used to them" and had to try to force myself to see them after a few weeks of viewing DLP. My brain adapted somehow, I just always thought that was interesting, and I don't recall others stating the same. . . in any case all I thought I said was that if you don't have a color wheel, you don't have rainbows, period. So if you have LED that has eliminated the color wheel, you get one of the big advantages of 3 chip without 3 chip, period. I meant the advantage for 3 chip over LED single chip was nullified, not the way you interpreted the opposite. And Samsung's statement about convergence is marketing fluff because every DLP RP they've ever made and probably anybody has ever made is one chip and has the same advantage of not worrying about the chips being lined up since there is only one.

Matt,
I highly doubt that the majority of people who have bought or will buy expensive 3 chip DLP projector is because it will eliminate the "rainbow" effect." The majority of people aren't effected by rainbows to begin with. Your original post below indicates, to me at least that you are saying the main reason for 3 chip is to eliminate rainbows. You also say, "originally there was an advantage", as if a 3 chip projector no longer has any advantages. It was that statement that I was replying to. My reply was to indicate this and that the main advantage is a 3 chip provides a superior performance.

I also would like to know anyone that owns a LED based DLP see rainbows? You also seem to say that rainbows can still effect some people with a LED DLP as you said, "Well, you don't have color wheel or rainbows on LED sets so that advantage is theoretically nullified."

In other words, you post an article to try and prove your point that 3 chip projectors exist mainly to eliminate a color wheel and rainbows and then you make another statement saying that by eliminating a color wheel and rainbows this main advantage is only, "gobble-di-gook"?

Has anyone been able to run overscan patterns on the 61A750? I wonder how much overscan there is by default. My original Sony 42" LCD RPTV didn't have much overscan, but my newer 46" LCD RPTV Sony had much more noticable overscan. I could tell because the Xbox360 live games that were vintage would let you adjust how big you wanted the screen to be. I set them to the 42" display, and they were cut off on both the top and bottom with the 46" quite noticably.

Another slightly off topic post. My HL61A750 is being delivered this morning along with the stand. Unfortunately I don't have time to scroll through the thread right now but someone posted that they they put the stand together as if for a 56' but mounted their 61" to it which was a better fit. Has anyone else done this and if so, what is the advantage?

What's the model number on these? If it's the WD-65736, I've seen it for pre-order on 2 sites for under $2000, but I can't find any info on that TV.


well that would be awesome if your correct, but i dotn see how any site can have pre order pricing since officially they havent stated prices yet, just dont be suprised if that 2k turns out to be very wrong especially due to them specifically stating it will cost the same as a flat pannel of that size, i can find a link to the article if you want :)

dont get me wrong tho, i would LOVE for you to be correct, i just think thats dreaming hehe

EDIT: i dunno if this was a mistake or not on your side but the WD-65736 is NOT a laser tv model number =) so trst me, there will be no laser tvs at 65in for under 2k anytime soon, im sticking with my original statement of MAYBE 4000 if your lucky.... but still likely 5k for a 65 in

Anyone have pictures of the HLxxA750A tv in their home set up?
I really want to see if that silver stripe at bottom of tv is annoying during viewing.

I just received my 61A750 today, have not had much time to mess around with it. As far as physical looks, this is almost exactly the same to the hlt6187s (it had a silver stripe at the bottom too). I say this, because I actually purchased the hlt6187s and it was delivered broken. The company that i bought it from didn't have anymore of that and sent me this new one at the same price :-) (dunno if that helps you alvindd or not)

Although... after all the reading here, I am almost wondering if it hurts me because it seems like the later revisions of the hlt6187s got rid of problems many of the problems. I will have to go on faith that the new model is just as good.

I saw that Erock1 has some settings (not far off of factory settings) but they seem so much different than what I am used to seeing with samsung DLP's. Usually its the whole "warm 1", drop sharpness to 0, turn all features off, brightness 40ish, contrast 80ish. I tried these settings that I am used to and they make it look a little dull, so I will probably try what Erock1 says.

Does anyone have any more setting recommendations!?

I don't recall any silver on my unit. I believe that this is just a reflection of the picture.

Actually... just looked at a couple of pictures that I posted and there are two small ones (about 1/8" thick each) there but my picture shows the area between these two as silver too (which is a reflection).

well that would be awesome if your correct, but i dotn see how any site can have pre order pricing since officially they havent stated prices yet, just dont be suprised if that 2k turns out to be very wrong especially due to them specifically stating it will cost the same as a flat pannel of that size, i can find a link to the article if you want :)

dont get me wrong tho, i would LOVE for you to be correct, i just think thats dreaming hehe

EDIT: i dunno if this was a mistake or not on your side but the WD-65736 is NOT a laser tv model number =) so trst me, there will be no laser tvs at 65in for under 2k anytime soon, im sticking with my original statement of MAYBE 4000 if your lucky.... but still likely 5k for a 65 in

ya you are correct most likley. thats the regular lamp based model for 08 prob. mits said the laser tv will be at a premium, so those are the diamond models and wont be sold in most stores.

Can the blue round power button light, under screen, be turned off during viewing?

EDIT: downloaded copy of HL61A750A owners manual.

Blue LED on front of TV can be adjusted for on/off.

Menu/External Setting/Lighteffect
This is also where the melody option is located.

the light has actually switched to a blue light around the circular powerbutton (although the pictures on the website imply there is the other light below the fixture too) and I would assume through the service menu you should be able to turn that off. I really have not looked through the service menu to any extent yet though.

I did notice in my short time with it that my TV has a slight geometry issue with the the picture gradually angled up so that the bottom right is higher than the bottom left by about 2-3 millimeters or so (most noticable with black bars across top and bottom, and from viewing distance you really have to be looking for it). I have yet to put anything with a grid up on the screen to check for other geometry issues

Another slightly off topic post. My HL61A750 is being delivered this morning along with the stand. Unfortunately I don't have time to scroll through the thread right now but someone posted that they they put the stand together as if for a 56' but mounted their 61" to it which was a better fit. Has anyone else done this and if so, what is the advantage?

HDMom,
You probably are referring to my post about my initial reactions/review of my HL61750A as the review included the stand using the 56" version.

For me, building the 56" version saved me at least 6" of width space which I wanted & needed :). As I reported, the 56" version of the stand was a perfect fit for the 61750A. The stand & TV almost looks seamless. I only have 4 components on the 2 glass shelves. My Denon AVR-3808ci, Tosh HD-XA2, Comcast cablebox, and a Belkin PF60 power conditioner. Keep in mind the recommended weight capacity of each glass shelf is 50 lbs. Silly me had to test this out by gently placing my AVR & power conditioner on the same shelf. That's about 65 lbs. Don't overload the shelves! I immediaetly noticed the shelf bowing. I had to carefully layout my components because of the weight. My Denon alone is 40 lbs. and my Belkin power filter is 15.5 lbs. I couldn't put both on the same shelf.

Stand's Con The only negative aspect I found about the stand (to me anyway) was the top shelve height was limited because of the support beam that you have to install on the bottom side of the top, TV shelf. I really wanted my Denon reveiver to sit on the top shelf but it wouldn't fit:( My receiver stands 6 3/4" in height)

Personally, I don't see any advantage to using the 61" version. The glass shelves are the same size (43 5/8" w X 15 13/16" d) regardless of the cabinet size, so you're not gaining any real useable shelf width space. The stability of the 56" stand is fine with the 61750A on it. Again, regardless of the stand size, the top shelve holds a max of 100 lbs.

NOTE I do want to say that one part of the directions to build the stand were incorrect. In the very beginning, I believe the first section for putting the the stand together, the directions call for a certain type of bolt that doesn't have the correct quantity. This mistake is fairly clear because the number of bolts required, like 15 do not correspond to the part number in the directions. Other than this, there are no written word directions, only pictures, but everything is labeled and all the pictures are clear. All you will need will be a small regular & phillips screwdrivers. The stand come with its own allen wrench.

I hope this was helpful and enjoy your 61750A!
Eric

well that would be awesome if your correct, but i dotn see how any site can have pre order pricing since officially they havent stated prices yet, just dont be suprised if that 2k turns out to be very wrong especially due to them specifically stating it will cost the same as a flat pannel of that size, i can find a link to the article if you want :)

dont get me wrong tho, i would LOVE for you to be correct, i just think thats dreaming hehe

EDIT: i dunno if this was a mistake or not on your side but the WD-65736 is NOT a laser tv model number =) so trst me, there will be no laser tvs at 65in for under 2k anytime soon, im sticking with my original statement of MAYBE 4000 if your lucky.... but still likely 5k for a 65 in
Yeah, you're probably right. Oh well. I'll stick with DLP until someone can make a 72" OLED for under $3K.

HDMom,
You probably are referring to my post about my initial reactions/review of my HL61750A as the review included the stand using the 56" version.

For me, building the 56" version saved me at least 6" of width space which I wanted & needed :). As I reported, the 56" version of the stand was a perfect fit for the 61750A. The stand & TV almost looks seamless. I only have 4 components on the 2 glass shelves. My Denon AVR-3808ci, Tosh HD-XA2, Comcast cablebox, and a Belkin PF60 power conditioner. Keep in mind the recommended weight capacity of each glass shelf is 50 lbs. Silly me had to test this out by gently placing my AVR & power conditioner on the same shelf. That's about 65 lbs. Don't overload the shelves! I immediaetly noticed the shelf bowing. I had to carefully layout my components because of the weight. My Denon alone is 40 lbs. and my Belkin power filter is 15.5 lbs. I couldn't put both on the same shelf.

Stand's Con The only negative aspect I found about the stand (to me anyway) was the top shelve height was limited because of the support beam that you have to install on the bottom side of the top, TV shelf. I really wanted my Denon reveiver to sit on the top shelf but it wouldn't fit:( My receiver stands 6 3/4" in height)

Personally, I don't see any advantage to using the 61" version. The glass shelves are the same size (43 5/8" w X 15 13/16" d) regardless of the cabinet size, so you're not gaining any real useable shelf width space. The stability of the 56" stand is fine with the 61750A on it. Again, regardless of the stand size, the top shelve holds a max of 100 lbs.

NOTE I do want to say that one part of the directions to build the stand were incorrect. In the very beginning, I believe the first section for putting the the stand together, the directions call for a certain type of bolt that doesn't have the correct quantity. This mistake is fairly clear because the number of bolts required, like 15 do not correspond to the part number in the directions. Other than this, there are no written word directions, only pictures, but everything is labeled and all the pictures are clear. All you will need will be a small regular & phillips screwdrivers. The stand come with its own allen wrench.

I hope this was helpful and enjoy your 61750A!
Eric

Thanks Eric, this was just what I was looking for. I too can use the extra 6 inches as my living room is configured a bit strange. As for weight issues, I had already figured that my best bet would be to order an AV rack from Costco, thus the need for conserving space. There's no way I'd put my HK receiver on the TV stand, that thing is really heavy. Besides, I have 5 sources that I'll need space for - the AVR, PS3, XBox 360, Wii, satellite DVR. The center speaker will probably be the only item I'll actually put on the stand.

Thanks for your help!

ETA: Eric, any way you could post a pic or two of your set and the stand?

Erock1, great writeup. I will do this setup to. I need the space that the 56 inch stand will give me for the sub.

Has anyone been able to tell if we have DC4 or what the true contrast ratio is on the 750s?

Although... after all the reading here, I am almost wondering if it hurts me because it seems like the later revisions of the hlt6187s got rid of problems many of the problems. I will have to go on faith that the new model is just as good.Today I noticed Fry's had a 61 inch LED model advertised for $1,699 (or so) and I was hoping it was the HL61A750 so I could get a price match.

It turned out to be one of the older models however since I now know the service menu code I went into the service menu with four or five sets just to check their grid patterns. Nicely returning them to their previous state when I was finished!

In each case the tilt was worse than mine (which I was secretly happy about) and the focus appeared the same or worse for the 61 inch models. I did notice however that the focus on the 50 inch models appeared spot on. Perhaps it's less of a challenge for the smaller set or just happened to work out that way.

Anyway I didn't see anything special about the older models. :)

By the way if anyone wants a stand for the set that contains a little wood I picked this one up. I decided on it before seeing the price and afterwards I was even happier. The set's base has 6 inches or so clearance on each side and the screen's frame over hangs by about 2 inches on each side. It's very sturdy and a breeze to assemble.

http://images.bestbuy.com:80/BestBuy_US/images/products/7941/7941089_sb.jpg

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage.jsp?skuId=7941089&type=product&id=1152228084457

Yeah, you're probably right. Oh well. I'll stick with DLP until someone can make a 72" OLED for under $3K.

its a trivial point but the laser tv IS also DLP. It just sucks that this isn't a year or 2 from now when we will probly see laser DLP has replaced LED DLP for the same prices. It is too hard to know what to do when I kinda need to get something this year.
I did a search on the Mitsu model given earlier and it is on Amazon for 1749.
Pretty nice price for a 65 inch with good features except that is a lamp/colorwheel (6 color one) model.:confused:

CC is delivering a new set to me to try Friday free of charge (to replace the one with geometry and focus issues). I asked them to put 2 sets on the truck in case we need to go to a 3rd and they were ok with it. . .

A little off topic,

Just an idea for those experiencing geometry problems ie, the tv sloping upwards or downwards. I own an older HL-R 6168W that sloped downwards from left to right. It used to drive me crazy. Then I had an idea to set a level on top of the tv. Suffice to say that the tv was not sitting level. After some tweaking to level it up, I did not notice any changes immediately. The set took about 24 to 36 hours to settle into its' new alignment which eliminated most of horizontal sloping I was experiencing.

Now, back on topic... I'm considering the HL61A750 as an upgrade set. Most of my viewing is via HTPC (my 6168 makes a great PC monitor via the VGA input!) and was wondering if anyone has really checked how well the HL61A750 works as a PC monitor via VGA and HDMI. I was mostly wondering about over and under scan and what picture adjustments through the set are available when inputing a pc signal. Thanks in advance! :D