just searched BB's site and found the A750 for $100 cheaper then CC.


Buying online from CC is currently $100 less than from BB.

Need these quick questions answered soon (if possible) as I'm about ready to pull the trigger on... something anyway, lol.

I've been trying to follow this thread, but it's a full time job!...


1) Have we found any difference or improvement over last years LED DLPs?

2) Did last years LED DLPs have the "reset & blackout" issues???

3) Can I turn off the front illumination of last years LED?

4) what's the code for entering the service menu?... and is it the same for last years and this years LED DLPs?

Thanks!... I prefer the look of this years version... but if nothing has changed but last years didn't have the reset issues and I can turn off that annoying light on the front of the set... I think I'll just get last years model.

Buying online from CC is currently $100 less than from BB.

Damn! I need to do some pricematching (Best Buy will do that right?!), thanks for the info :)

I had a last years HLT and each of the HDMI ports handled 1080p differently. To me it seemed some of the HDMI ports handled old 1080p equipment one way, and other HDMI ports handled 1080p a different way.

I suggest you try "each" of the Sammy's HDMI ports with the "offending" 1080p equipment (Blu Ray, XBox, or ?). See if that makes any difference?

I've got a mess of cables and can't currently hook it back up to follow up with you, but I can tell you that when I had it hooked up (before I got everything set back up so it was pretty inaccessable) did the scan, still have ATSC channels, but in PIP mode only analog channels are available.


Matt, one last question. If you have a HD component video source and a HDMI HD source:
1 Can you split screen?
2 Does it fill the screen or is it letterboxed?

Thanks!

Just to be clear, I don't own one of these TV's - I'm just a (somewhat) innocent bystander. I'm most likely going to replace my ~6 year old Mitsubishi Diamond series RPTV with something later this year, so I'm paying attention to various options including DLP and the Pioneer Kuro line (yeah, I know these are radically different price tiers). All the problems people are having with these DLP's has me pretty much convinced to go with the Kuro option even though it will cost significantly more.

I completely agree that those of you having problems should be calling Samsung to complain. Nothing will get fixed if they aren't aware of the problems and the odds of something happening increase if more people call. Quite frankly, if I paid a few thousand or more for one of these sets and had bowing or random power shutdowns, I would exercise my return option and get something else. Nothing will get their attention more than lost sales.

Just wanted to through my two cents on here for ya. I was SERIOUSLY looking between the samsung DLP's and the pioneer KURO's also (and yes, they are majorly different price ranges lol). The conclusion that I came to is that this samsung DLP (and last year's) really look 99% as good from ideal viewing conditions. I mean, as long as you are at a good viewing angle and that the set is configured well (and these don't even really need much configuring from what I can tell either). The pioneer is AWESOME, and if money was not an issue, I really would have gotten that. The main advantage would be the viewing angles... the fact that the picture looks just as good from basically anywhere. The only time this really comes into play for me though, is if maybe I was walking around cleaning up or fixin some food or somethin, but seriously how often does that happen for a 23 yr old bachelor livin on his own lol. The only other thing would be that I don't think I have heard of geometry issues with flat panel sets based on how they are constructed/work (I think someone else on here previously said this too) I know this should be common knowledge for people that have done some research based on the technologies, but it wasn't until I saw them side by side that the DLPs really wowed me with the fact that they really can look just as good as the plasmas. Anyways, just wanted to give ya my input.

I also just wanted to update my records on here lol. Yesterday I probably used my tv (61A750) for 12 hours straight and still have not had a reset. I would say 9-10 hours were on my ps3, 1080p bluray, 24p, hdmi1... and then the last couple hours were on my 360, set to 1080p (although I was playing bioshock, is that 1080p?), component2. This was my first big test for the TV and it seems like I have lucked out so far. Keep in mind I have only "lucked out" after I recieved a broken htl6187s (last year's model) and had to go through online exchange policies lol. And I am one of the people with some geometry issues (a very little amount of bowing in the bottom, and a slight slant upwards going from left to right). I am going to record all of my settings and mess around in the service menu a little to see if the slant can be manipulated, but I think everyone says that bowing cannot be fixed. I just wanted to put my mostly positive results out here for people to see (there aren't many positive things on this thread lol)

i have the a750 and just had the reset issue after 5 days whlie watching a blu ray via the ps3 1080p @ 24hz with monter hd1000 v1.3 connected to hdmi input 2 last night. calling samsung today let you know what i here.

Any of you owners purchased a Service Manual for either the XXA750 or XXA650? Does it describe any of the following: Tilt Adjustment, Ring Focus or Actuator Adjustment. These items were described in the Service Manuals for the HL-R and HL-S series Samsungs but I did not follow the HL-T threads sufficiently to learn whether these items were still in the those models.

Tilt Adjustment was used to remove the slant or tilt of the display. Using the service menu, a hatch pattern was projected on the screen and the DMD unit was physically moved to take the tilt out of the picture. This required removing the back of the display. The job was a real PITA, optimally requiring two people (a spotter and an adjuster with the adjuster having three hands). This adjustment would not remove bowing.

Eliab once mentioned that the majority of the HL-R and HL-S sets that he calibrated had a mis-adjusted Ring Focus from the factory. If the Ring Ficus is out of adjustment, the picture will not appear as sharp or clear as it should. Lines can be slightly fuzzy. (This is not the same as "edge" sharpening.) The Ring Focus adjustment is also a physical adjustment that required an internal pattern, two people (an adjuster and a spotter) and removing the back of the display. It was much easier to do than the Tilt Adjustment.

The Actuator Ajustment was a form of focus adjustment for the DMD (not technically correct but that was the effect). This adjustment required using the Actuator Gain parameter in the service menu to sharpen up one of two internally generated patterns. One of the patterns included sharpening four red, blue, green and white crosses which has me wondering whether this could be contributing to the faux convergence issue. (I say "faux" because these sets do not suffer the usually convergence issue resulting from path differences using three light sources or split beams. They still could have "convergence" issues due to differences in the refractive index of the optical components for difference frequencies of light but I'd assume (hope) that Samsung uses coated optics to minimize this.)

All of these adjustments could be made by the owner (and I have done them on my old HL-R) but with new sets such as these, I'd have a tech in to do it (e.g., could invalidate your warranty).

Again, I do not know whether any of these adjustments exist for the XXA750 and XXA650 series but if anyone has a Service Manual (and assuming that unlike some manufacturers, Samsung continues to put useful info in the service manual), it's easy to check. FWIW.

Any of you owners purchased a Service Manual for either the XXA750 or XXA650? Does it describe any of the following: Tilt Adjustment, Ring Focus or Actuator Adjustment. These items were described in the Service Manuals for the HL-R and HL-S series Samsungs but I did not follow the HL-T threads sufficiently to learn whether these items were still in the those models.

Tilt Adjustment was used to remove the slant or tilt of the display. Using the service menu, a hatch pattern was projected on the screen and the DMD unit was physically moved to take the tilt out of the picture. This required removing the back of the display. The job was a real PITA, optimally requiring two people (a spotter and an adjuster with the adjuster having three hands). This adjustment would not remove bowing.

Eliab once mentioned that the majority of the HL-R and HL-S sets that he calibrated had a mis-adjusted Ring Focus from the factory. If the Ring Ficus is out of adjustment, the picture will not appear as sharp or clear as it should. Lines can be slightly fuzzy. The Ring Focus adjustment is also a physical adjustment that required an internal pattern, two people (an adjuster and a spotter) and removing the back of the display. It was much easier to do than the Tilt Adjustment.

The Actuator Ajustment was a form of focus adjustment for the DMD (not technically correct but that was the effect). This adjustment required using the Actuator Gain parameter in the service menu to sharpen up one of two internally generated patterns. One of the patterns included sharpening four red, blue, green and white crosses which has me wondering whether this could be contributing to the faux convergence issue. (I say "faux" because these sets do not suffer the usually convergence issue resulting from path differences using three light sources or split beams. They still could have "convergence" issues due to differences in the refractive index of the optical components for difference frequencies of light but I'd assume (hope) that Samsung uses coated optics to minimize this.)

All of these adjustments could be made by the owner (and I have done them on my old HL-R) but with new sets such as these, I'd have a tech in to do it (e.g., could invalidate your warranty).

Again, I do not know whether any of these adjustments exist for the XXA750 and XXA650 series but if anyone has a Service Manual (and assuming that unlike some manufacturers, Samsung continues to put useful info in the service manual), it's easy to check. FWIW.


Is samsung usually willing to send a tech out to do such things? Or is this something that I should find someone local to do? In that case... any recommendations in the Ohio area?

Has anyone had the TV long enough to be able to tweak the settings to where they are totally happy. I love the picture out of the box for sports and any bright scenes. What I have noticed is that in dark scenes it does not look as crisp at all. I have searched the threads and found a couple people that had posted settings, but there can never be too many options! If anyone has time I would really appreciate it, thanks!

Is samsung usually willing to send a tech out to do such things? Or is this something that I should find someone local to do? In that case... any recommendations in the Ohio area?In the cases I've read, the poster had the adjustments done by either a calibrator or by a tech when the tech was out to address a different issue, such as a light engine replacement. According to Eliab, most calibrators did not know about the Ring Focus, even though it and the other two adjustments were specifically mentioned in the service manual. So, I doubt the techs would know without your input (and a service manual to show them how it is done). The slant or tilt issue is realistically the only problem that a typical owner could recognize as a problem and report to Samsung. I would assume that Samsung would dispatch a tech if the slant exceeded a certain specification. I have no idea what the spec is. It would be interesting if someone with the slant issue would report it to Samsung and inform us of their response. By the way, the tilt adjustment takes a lot of patience. You had better be prepared to chain the tech to the display until it meets your expectations or the fix could end up worse than the initial problem.

In the cases I've read, the poster had the adjustments done by either a calibrator or by a tech when the tech was out to address a different issue, such as a light engine replacement. According to Eliab, most calibrators did not know about the Ring Focus, even though it and the other two adjustments were specifically mentioned in the service manual. So, I doubt the techs would know without your input (and a service manual to show them how it is done). The slant or tilt issue is realistically the only problem that a typical owner could recognize as a problem and report to Samsung. I would assume that Samsung would dispatch a tech if the slant exceeded a certain specification. I have no idea what the spec is. It would be interesting if someone with the slant issue would report it to Samsung and inform us of their response. By the way, the tilt adjustment takes a lot of patience. You had better be prepared to chain the tech to the display until it meets your expectations or the fix could end up worse than the initial problem.


Couple my lack of availability (only weekends and evenings) and my desire to not make my TV worse lol... I dunno how far I'll push it. So theres definitely nothing I can do in the service menu to make any adjustments?

Couple my lack of availability (only weekends and evenings) and my desire to not make my TV worse lol... I dunno how far I'll push it. So theres definitely nothing I can do in the service menu to make any adjustments?Only the Accuator Adjustment could be made totally via the service menu, and that assumes it exists for the XXA750 and XXA650 series. Slant and ring focus could not be accomplished via the service menu. I do not know of any other ways to potentially impact the slant and "convergence" issues.

By the way, the tilt adjustment takes a lot of patience. You had better be prepared to chain the tech to the display until it meets your expectations or the fix could end up worse than the initial problem.When my tech came out to remove the dirt from behind the screen I asked him about the image's tilt (luckily I only have one pixel or so) and he stated he would have to basically take the entire set apart but he could adjust it. The kicker was that it may end up worse than it was to start... now I don't if that's because he would just give up after a while or what. :)

Regardless of how much work it is for the tech If they can adjust it, they should. They probably dont get to bill Samsung as much for adjustments.


From following this, since some of you only have some cycling issues it seems like a problem and not some wrong port or cable you are using.

If that was the case then it would be everyone.

Keeps getting stranger, Samsung is sticking by the 2,500:1 contrast ratio for the 650 series.

How can they explain such a major step back on the bulb model? It doesn't make any sense. I cant justify $2k on a 61" with a 2,500:1 contrast ratio when I am coming from a 50" 10,000:1 from 2 years ago!

WTF samsung, your killing me this year!

No Darkchip 4 and a loss of contrast ratio?

Keeps getting stranger, Samsung is sticking by the 2,500:1 contrast ratio for the 650 series.

How can they explain such a major step back on the bulb model? It doesn't make any sense. I cant justify $2k on a 61" with a 2,500:1 contrast ratio when I am coming from a 50" 10,000:1 from 2 years ago!

WTF samsung, your killing me this year!

No Darkchip 4 and a loss of contrast ratio?

I think everyone on this message board with the 750 has had a power cycle issue, I know i have as have many others.... I think it is just some kind of glitch that can be resolved surely without tech's if thats the case they sent out a bunch of glitchy TVs....

I have yet to have a power issue and have the 61A750, if anyone has any questions on my settings just ask, but I am not doing anything that I would call "special"

Don't get caught up/confused between contrast ratio, and dynamic contrast ratio. This set almost certainly has superior contrast ratio compared to your set from 2 years ago. For more info, difference, read some of these links.

http://www.practical-home-theater-guide.com/contrast-ratio.html


Keeps getting stranger, Samsung is sticking by the 2,500:1 contrast ratio for the 650 series.

How can they explain such a major step back on the bulb model? It doesn't make any sense. I cant justify $2k on a 61" with a 2,500:1 contrast ratio when I am coming from a 50" 10,000:1 from 2 years ago!

WTF samsung, your killing me this year!

No Darkchip 4 and a loss of contrast ratio?

I think everyone on this message board with the 750 has had a power cycle issue....

And you would be incorrect.

And you would be incorrect.


it will come little man it will come, pretty sure the number of issues I have heard on here about power cycles as well as my own is not a coincidence... By the way I have had my unit for 1 week

I've been reading along and even before was thinking of trying to get a good deal on a 6187 or 89 (pre 750 model). I've looked at the specs (pdfs available from Samsung). Other than slight port changes and Samsungs seemingly interchangeable uses of CinemaSmooth and CinemaPure. What would be the disadvantage of going with a deal on one of last years models?

Great forum,

Scott

Just wanted to through my two cents on here for ya. I was SERIOUSLY looking between the samsung DLP's and the pioneer KURO's also (and yes, they are majorly different price ranges lol). The conclusion that I came to is that this samsung DLP (and last year's) really look 99% as good from ideal viewing conditions. I mean, as long as you are at a good viewing angle and that the set is configured well (and these don't even really need much configuring from what I can tell either). The pioneer is AWESOME, and if money was not an issue, I really would have gotten that. The main advantage would be the viewing angles... the fact that the picture looks just as good from basically anywhere. The only time this really comes into play for me though, is if maybe I was walking around cleaning up or fixin some food or somethin, but seriously how often does that happen for a 23 yr old bachelor livin on his own lol. The only other thing would be that I don't think I have heard of geometry issues with flat panel sets based on how they are constructed/work (I think someone else on here previously said this too) I know this should be common knowledge for people that have done some research based on the technologies, but it wasn't until I saw them side by side that the DLPs really wowed me with the fact that they really can look just as good as the plasmas. Anyways, just wanted to give ya my input.

I also just wanted to update my records on here lol. Yesterday I probably used my tv (61A750) for 12 hours straight and still have not had a reset. I would say 9-10 hours were on my ps3, 1080p bluray, 24p, hdmi1... and then the last couple hours were on my 360, set to 1080p (although I was playing bioshock, is that 1080p?), component2. This was my first big test for the TV and it seems like I have lucked out so far. Keep in mind I have only "lucked out" after I recieved a broken htl6187s (last year's model) and had to go through online exchange policies lol. And I am one of the people with some geometry issues (a very little amount of bowing in the bottom, and a slight slant upwards going from left to right). I am going to record all of my settings and mess around in the service menu a little to see if the slant can be manipulated, but I think everyone says that bowing cannot be fixed. I just wanted to put my mostly positive results out here for people to see (there aren't many positive things on this thread lol)

Thank you for this post; I too have been considering both the Pioneer Kuro 6010FD 60" Plasma and the 67" Sammy A750. So, I went to BB today to check them both out (actually compared the 61" Sammy w/ the 60" Pioneer), and found myself coming back to the Sammy for a few reasons...

1. Although the black level and no motion blur of the Pioneer Plasma is very enticing, it really does seem very dim compared with the LED DLP powered Sammy RPTV. For our new home (moving in May), the new tv will be in mostly high light conditions of our family room and will be viewed 80% of the time with either the sun poking through the windows or the lights on. The Kuro Plasma is just plain horrible for these conditions, and the reflections would be terrible on the Plasma.

2. When you turn the contrast and/or brightness up on the Pioneer Kuro Plasma, all it does is ending up washing everything out...it just makes the bight spots look terrible. So, there's really no good solution there; it's got to be viewed with the contrast and brightness turned down a bit...and the tv is just plain dim to me.

3. The 60" Plasma is smaller vs. the 67" Sammy RPTV (supposedly available June 1, 2008) and costs > 2x as much.

Anyhow, with all this said, I'm currently planning on pre-ordering my 67" Samsung LED DLP RTPV (HL67A750A) either from Amazon.com in May or from BB on/after 6/1/08. :D

btw -- I'm replacing my 60" Sony Grand VVEGA LCD RPTV, which I tweaked via the service menu. ;)

I've been reading along and even before was thinking of trying to get a good deal on a 6187 or 89 (pre 750 model). I've looked at the specs (pdfs available from Samsung). Other than slight port changes and Samsungs seemingly interchangeable uses of CinemaSmooth and CinemaPure. What would be the disadvantage of going with a deal on one of last years models?

Great forum,

Scott

I don't think there really is a disadvantage if you are comparing the 6189 and the 61a750. but vs the 6187, the new one has hdmi 1.3 and pip (dunno if those matter to you?). If you can get a good price on the 6189, i would for sure do it

A service center tech came out today reference the reset issue. He took off the back panel and (only) looked inside the TV with a pocket flashlight. He didn't see anything wrong. Then he called Samsung who told him to order a new main board. The tech advised it should take 7-10 days for them to receive the board.

A service center tech came out today reference the reset issue. He took off the back panel and (only) looked inside the TV with a pocket flashlight. He didn't see anything wrong. Then he called Samsung who told him to order a new main board. The tech advised it should take 7-10 days for them to receive the board.

wow let me know how that works for you.... Surely all our "main boards" cant be bad, but I guess we will see if it fixes your problem... How many resets did you have?

A service center tech came out today reference the reset issue. He took off the back panel and (only) looked inside the TV with a pocket flashlight. He didn't see anything wrong. Then he called Samsung who told him to order a new main board. The tech advised it should take 7-10 days for them to receive the board.They have set up a service call for me too and mentioned since they can't sit around all day waiting for it to reset they may simply replace the main board.

I don't think there really is a disadvantage if you are comparing the 6189 and the 61a750. but vs the 6187, the new one has hdmi 1.3 and pip (dunno if those matter to you?). If you can get a good price on the 6189, i would for sure do it
That's what it seemed like to me, just want to be sure that CinemaPure was not perhaps Darkchip 4. -- PIP is not a factor for me, but what does not getting hdmi 1.3 cut me out of?

Thanks,
Scott

That's what it seemed like to me, just want to be sure that CinemaPure was not perhaps Darkchip 4. -- PIP is not a factor for me, but what does not getting hdmi 1.3 cut me out of?

Thanks,
Scott

if you don't get hdmi 1.3, you are missing basically 2 features. I forget what they are called, but one is for enhanced black levels and one is for 10-bit color. I believe it is something like xyvcc. The only products that can use these at the moment, to my knowledge, are ps3's and some HD handicams. From what I have read, people believe that movies won't take advantage of these for quite some time because it would require new cameras and whatnot. But that games will probably use them much sooner.

It wasn't a big deal to me because I actually ordered the 6187s originally, but the one I got was shipped broken. The company no longer had those and sent me a 61a750 at no more cost.

if you don't get hdmi 1.3, you are missing basically 2 features. I forget what they are called, but one is for enhanced black levels and one is for 10-bit color. I believe it is something like xyvcc. The only products that can use these at the moment, to my knowledge, are ps3's and some HD handicams. From what I have read, people believe that movies won't take advantage of these for quite some time because it would require new cameras and whatnot. But that games will probably use them much sooner.

It wasn't a big deal to me because I actually ordered the 6187s originally, but the one I got was shipped broken. The company no longer had those and sent me a 61a750 at no more cost.
Nice that you got a broken one to start with, or have you been having the problems as others have with your 750?

Thanks for the info -- I'll be looking for a deal on either 87 or 89.

Don't get caught up/confused between contrast ratio, and dynamic contrast ratio. This set almost certainly has superior contrast ratio compared to your set from 2 years ago. For more info, difference, read some of these links.

http://www.practical-home-theater-guide.com/contrast-ratio.html

Contrast ratio is listed on last years HLT6176 = 10,000:1 ( I owned 2 of these before returning)

Contrast is listed on my 2 year old HLS5087W = 10,000:1

Contrast ratio is listed for the HL61a650 = 2,500:1


That seems like a major step back to me...

Nice that you got a broken one to start with, or have you been having the problems as others have with your 750?

Thanks for the info -- I'll be looking for a deal on either 87 or 89.

Nah, I have not had the power down issues that people have had. I do have a slight slant and some slight bowing though. I wish the 87 that I originally had didn't have a big crack in the screen, or I would have calibrated it and spent time with it and been able to tell you in depth opinions on 87vsA750. But I can tell you that the build quality seemed almost exactly the same (and looked the same) and there were no real noticable differences in contrast or detail.

One thing though, I DO think that the A750 might handle 24p better. I remember reading on boards that the 87 didn't neccesarily handshake well and that it was hard to figure out what settings the user had to have on their set to make it work right. My experience with the A750 is that it automatically turned "film mode" off and greyed it out when it recieved the 24p signal, and I have not seen any discrepencies yet. You may want to read more about that

If Samsung hasn't addressed this issue by the end of the month I would consider purchasing one of these TVs to be an act of stupidity.

Do I want that stupidity served with extended service plan or without ;)

No way I'm giving up on Samsung over this one issue. My experience is they make this type of stuff right. . .has anything changed since 2004 or so?

I am going to e-mail Steve Panosian tonight, I've seen enough here to be convinced it is a wide spread issue.

Matt, one last question. If you have a HD component video source and a HDMI HD source:
1 Can you split screen?
2 Does it fill the screen or is it letterboxed?


That's not how it works, you pick PIP and then you choose splitscreen or not. Sorry no hope for you on this one. I've got component, HDMI, and SVideo sources. Only option is PIP with analog antenna/cable.

Those of you having Blu Ray problems dropping out when using 1080p I suggest the following.

Disconnect all HDMI at the back of the TV.
Try each and every HDMI connection for your Blu Ray player.

It is possible, one or more of the ports may work correctly without dropping out or resetting. It will only take you a couple of minutes to confirm. And it is certainly a lot better then having a new TV torn apart.

Would you trade the hlt 6176s for the new 650/ 750 series? There would be about a $500 price diffrence.


Would you I have aweek to decide, also what is the diffrence between the 650 and 750? besides price?

What issues do the new series have? what has a better picture? the 6176 or the new ones? thanks

Would you trade the hlt 6176s for the new 650/ 750 series? There would be about a $500 price diffrence.


Would you I have aweek to decide, also what is the diffrence between the 650 and 750? besides price?

What issues do the new series have? what has a better picture? the 6176 or the new ones? thanksThe series 6 (50", 56", 61", 72") is bulb back light based, the series 7 (61", 67") is LED back light based. Both series are now using HDMI 1.3a with xvYCC and deep color support. Physically the series 6 has that silver trim at the bottom of the display close to hidden speakers, the series 7 are totally black. Comparing a HLT-6189s to a HL-61A750 its hard to say anything is different brightness wise. (they claim 40% brighter)

IMHO if I had a chance to upgrade from a 6176s to a 61A750 for $500 I'd go for it. :)

A service center tech came out today reference the reset issue. He took off the back panel and (only) looked inside the TV with a pocket flashlight. He didn't see anything wrong. Then he called Samsung who told him to order a new main board. The tech advised it should take 7-10 days for them to receive the board.

Uggh, you must have gotten the same repair "tech" on the phone I did. I don't believe it. What did just looking at the board tell him anyway? These sets are too new for them and they are just jumping through hoops IMO.

My problem is my repair center doesn't do any work in home. They do a good job, but I don't like them transporting the set 45 miles there and back to work on it. Maybe they have changed their tune.

Still hoping for firmware fix myself. . .

Nah, I have not had the power down issues that people have had. I do have a slight slant and some slight bowing though. I wish the 87 that I originally had didn't have a big crack in the screen, or I would have calibrated it and spent time with it and been able to tell you in depth opinions on 87vsA750. But I can tell you that the build quality seemed almost exactly the same (and looked the same) and there were no real noticable differences in contrast or detail.

One thing though, I DO think that the A750 might handle 24p better. I remember reading on boards that the 87 didn't neccesarily handshake well and that it was hard to figure out what settings the user had to have on their set to make it work right. My experience with the A750 is that it automatically turned "film mode" off and greyed it out when it recieved the 24p signal, and I have not seen any discrepencies yet. You may want to read more about that
Will do -- and thanks!

i was looking into the HL61A750 but noticed only on the LED versions that samsung was not listing support thru HDMI for 720p only component inputs, but they were for the lamp model. i know xbox 360 can scale all output to 1080i but i thought i heard the ps3 can't do that. so if a ps3 game is 720p is that going to be an issue if this tv does not support 720p hdmi input? Thanks...

Well, then you have fallen victim to the contrast ratio marketing scheme. Sorry I couldn't help you or you wont educate yourself on the difference between dynamic contrast and ansi contrast. Admittedly the different standards do make it confusing, but don't let that 2500:1 number fool you, the set has plenty of contrast. If you look on the Samsung website they do list 10,000:1 for the HL61A750. Does that make you feel better? What should make you feel the best is the actual measured contrast (posted by rahull I believe) a while back at over 3,000:1. Great number.

Contrast ratio is listed on last years HLT6176 = 10,000:1 ( I owned 2 of these before returning)

Contrast is listed on my 2 year old HLS5087W = 10,000:1

Contrast ratio is listed for the HL61a650 = 2,500:1


That seems like a major step back to me...

i was looking into the HL61A750 but noticed only on the LED versions that samsung was not listing support thru HDMI for 720p only component inputs, but they were for the lamp model. i know xbox 360 can scale all output to 1080i but i thought i heard the ps3 can't do that. so if a ps3 game is 720p is that going to be an issue if this tv does not support 720p hdmi input? Thanks...

The specs are just incomplete--I did 1280x720 through my HTPC on HDMI no problem (LED model).

Well, then you have fallen victim to the contrast ratio marketing scheme. Sorry I couldn't help you or you wont educate yourself on the difference between dynamic contrast and ansi contrast. Admittedly the different standards do make it confusing, but don't let that 2500:1 number fool you, the set has plenty of contrast. If you look on the Samsung website they do list 10,000:1 for the HL61A750. Does that make you feel better? What should make you feel the best is the actual measured contrast (posted by rahull I believe) a while back at over 3,000:1. Great number.


Some people would just prefer to pout...No desire for an education.. :(

Out with the old:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v79/SD70MAC/Jeep/CJ8bigscreen.jpg

In with the new:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v79/SD70MAC/Samsung61A750.jpg

:D

:eek:were did you get that stand.....................i like:D

Physically the series 6 has that silver trim at the bottom of the display close to hidden speakers, the series 7 are totally black.

Our 750 has the the silver trim at the bottom.

:eek:were did you get that stand.....................i like:D

Thank you. We just about gave ourselves headaches trying to a find a stand met our criteria for size, sturdiness, and appearance.

It is a BDI Deploy.

We purchased it from Best Buy along with our 61A750.

Thank you. We just about gave ourselves headaches trying to a find a stand met our criteria for size, sturdiness, and appearance.

It is a BDI Deploy.

We purchased it from Best Buy along with our 61A750.


Hey Iron I know you said you have not had the power cycle situation yet, have you been watching HD, mine was simply watching HD Set top box from Dish network when it did it, it's done it 2-3 times in a matter of a week and a half so not really a huge deal, if it stops lol....

Our 750 has the the silver trim at the bottom.
Possible differences between the A650 and A750 are the size of this silver trim. Yes, my A750 has two small lines of silver trim but as I recall the portion between the lines of silver trim is black. Maybe the A650 has gray or silver in between these two silver lines of time.

Hey Iron I know you said you have not had the power cycle situation yet, have you been watching HD, mine was simply watching HD Set top box from Dish network when it did it, it's done it 2-3 times in a matter of a week and a half so not really a huge deal, if it stops lol....

We've just been watching a few HD channels on regular digital cable and movies on an upconverting DVD player. We're holding off on a Blu-Ray until the next generation of players is released.

Well, then you have fallen victim to the contrast ratio marketing scheme. Sorry I couldn't help you or you wont educate yourself on the difference between dynamic contrast and ansi contrast. Admittedly the different standards do make it confusing, but don't let that 2500:1 number fool you, the set has plenty of contrast. If you look on the Samsung website they do list 10,000:1 for the HL61A750. Does that make you feel better? What should make you feel the best is the actual measured contrast (posted by rahull I believe) a while back at over 3,000:1. Great number.

Mike_pro, I am very confused. The measured contrast ratio was for a 750 series, not a 650. Second, having seen the 750 series, there is no way that has the same black level as my HLS.

Now, as far as education goes you are correct, I am being fooled here. I just dont understand If it was marketing, and they were lying the previous generations why they don't just post 10,000:1 now. 2,500:1 would make the 6 series amoung the worst contrast ratio of any set this year and I just dont get it.

Hey Iron I know you said you have not had the power cycle situation yet, have you been watching HD, mine was simply watching HD Set top box from Dish network when it did it, it's done it 2-3 times in a matter of a week and a half so not really a huge deal, if it stops lol....

Which DISH receiver do you have? I have a friend who installs for DISH (his retirement hobby) and has had a lifetime of electronic experience. He says that DISH HD receivers have shutdown problems when processing data through HDMI cables. It sounds as though DISH realizes the problem. The fix is to use component cables or upgrade to the DISH 722 DVR. I am not sure if DISH will upgrade for free. I have a temp DISH 222, so I will keep viewing and post any problems until I get the 722 delivered.

Which DISH receiver do you have? I have a friend who installs for DISH (his retirement hobby) and has had a lifetime of electronic experience. He says that DISH HD receivers have shutdown problems when processing data through HDMI cables. It sounds as though DISH realizes the problem. The fix is to use component cables or upgrade to the DISH 722 DVR. I am not sure if DISH will upgrade for free. I have a temp DISH 222, so I will keep viewing and post any problems until I get the 722 delivered.

wow that would be huge if that was the case, and it has only happened while watching Satellite with the Regular HD box, yes I need the DVR upgrade.... maybe they would help me out since I'm an existing customer and need this so my TV does not mess up.... Question for you were you having the shut down problems?

I just talked with a Dish rep they said it would only cause me not to be able to view Dish HD with HDMI .... they did not say that would be a cause for power cycle...

I just got off the phone with Samsung support - I was calling to follow up on the ECR ticket I (indirectly) opened this past Saturday regarding power cycling.

Not to get anybody's hopes up yet, but...

The csr stated he seemed to recall an email (may have been a different form of correspondence) circulating (I assume w/i the Samsung support department) that some of their 2008 model TV's were indeed experiencing said issue. He believes the HL61A750 set was on that list...I think his direct words were "...the email wasn't specifically directed towards your model #, it was directed to some of our 2008 TV's."

He furthered stated that...he believes a firmware upgrade is currently in the very early stages of development (alpha?) for the A750.

I tried prying more information out of him but he informed me to call back tomorrow when the ECR department is open (8:00 - 6:00 CST) and I could speak to someone directly concerning the matter.

So...perhaps progress, perhaps an ill-informed customer service representative (no disrespect to him, by any means, he certainly meant well). Either way, thought I would let everyone know.

good deal....

I was watching a recorded OTA show from KNBC in Los Angeles who broadcasts in 1080i (the rest use 720p) on a Directv HR20-700 (which has its own problems) when the 61A750 reset. I have watched quite a few (maybe 20) from OTA 720p stations without any problems other than the HR20, this is the first recording from a 1080i station.

wow that would be huge if that was the case, and it has only happened while watching Satellite with the Regular HD box, yes I need the DVR upgrade.... maybe they would help me out since I'm an existing customer and need this so my TV does not mess up.... Question for you were you having the shut down problems?

I have not had shut down problems YET! I have not put enough time on the set. I am running DISH 222 and XBOX360 via HDMI to the ONKYO receiver with HDMI out to the HDMI 1 input on the 61A750. The XBOX has seen much use with no shut down issues. We shall see.
Upper bezel has a slight bow, only discernable when looking down the length of the set from the side. I was able to move the upper portion of the bezel up, but it was rock solid when I pushed down. Neither effort had any effect on the screen. No tilt. No dirt specks. Picture quality is great with 1080 from the DISH. I have made several non-service menu tweaks, but have not settled on the best yet. Any advice on this area would be great. I seem to be wandering around in circles and lack focus, so to speak.

Is anyone having problems with the SRS trusuround XT setting (over HDMI and component input only) not remembering what it is set to when the TV is turned off. When my ht61a750a and the display at best buy are powered off this setting always resets to the off setting. However if the TV is turned off under the over the air or AV1 or AV2 inputs it will remember the SRS trusuround XT setting at what it was before it was turned off. I called Samaung and they are looking into it. I also compared these same situations with the 6187 and this model always remembered the setting of the SRS under all power down/up situations.

Hi,

I'm a brand new member to this forum with some a/v experience, so I apologize in advance for what I am about to ask. And to answer in advance yes I did read quite a few pages of the forum thread, but to read them all is quite a task in one sitting.

Questions I had concerning the Sammy HL61A750:

Is the red convergance noticeable? Does it really take up much on the top part of the screen or is it only slighty noticeable?


How often does the power cycling problem happen? Once in awhile or just every time said circumstances make it happen?

The reason I am asking is because I am making a purchase of a very nice tv in the next few weeks to months, but based on what I am reading I am just somewhat leery without getting other opinions on the A750. I was consider the plasma kuro but I just really like the DLP and what I had read on the A750. If Samsung is planning on rolling out A750s later in the year without the power cycle problem I would rather wait but I am coming into this post, I feel, a bit late so I do not know.

Any and all help is appreciated :)

Originally Posted by Bill Williams 731 View Post
I ordered the HL61A750 from highdefinitionstore.com, Mar. 21 when it was back ordered... They got a shipment in yesterday and I did get an e-mail with a shipping tracking number yesterday. They shipped with a Co.named: Pilot Freight, from NY.

Good luck with getting that in one piece..............Your thoughts will be in our prayers.

Broncogeek, I believe in prayer... God heard your prayer loud and clear... Because the HL61A750 was delivered today days ahead of the delivery schedule. The TV was in perfect condition... All I know now is it has great picture right out of the box.

Guys, some marketing person screwed up the specs. 2500:1 is the contrast ratio. I guarantee the dynamic contrast ratio IS 10000:1 or better on the 650.

The series 6 (50", 56", 61", 72") is bulb back light based, the series 7 (61", 67") is LED back light based. Both series are now using HDMI 1.3a with xvYCC and deep color support. Physically the series 6 has that silver trim at the bottom of the display close to hidden speakers, the series 7 are totally black. Comparing a HLT-6189s to a HL-61A750 its hard to say anything is different brightness wise. (they claim 40% brighter)

IMHO if I had a chance to upgrade from a 6176s to a 61A750 for $500 I'd go for it. :)

Not so fast, they are not 40% brighter than the Samsung Bulb sets. I had the 6176 and have demoed the 750. There is such a difference that I am getting the 650 series. Viewing angles and overall brightness is a deal breaker for LED. See my next post for proof that LED is not as bright.

So here it is from the horses mouth. I finally got through to a third level tech. They apprantly have access to the service manuals of these sets. The official (though not published) specks are as follows:

750 series 6,000:1 contrast ratio Brightness 450 CD over M sq

650 Series 2,500:1 contrast ratio Brightness 650 CD over M sq

Now, when I spoke to the tech who spent a good deal of time with me, he explained that the 650 bulb set could still have better blacks If it was brighter. One thing is for sure, the LED is not as bright but we knew they from the viewing angles anyway.

Someone who is knowledgeable about this sort of thing can explain to me how a 2,500:1 contrast ratio can be an improvement over 10,000:1

I guess If I could find the brightness of last years sets it would help. Either way, these are from the service manuals so this is concrete.

Obviously they were exaggerating on last year's sets. Maybe they were somehow forced to give true specs now?

Obviously they were exaggerating on last year's sets. Maybe they were somehow forced to give true specs now?

Measurements from a few pages back on the 750 said 3000:1 or so and they are advertising 10,000:1

Not so fast, they are not 40% brighter than the Samsung Bulb sets. I had the 6176 and have demoed the 750. There is such a difference that I am getting the 650 series. Viewing angles and overall brightness is a deal breaker for LED. See my next post for proof that LED is not as bright.I can't speak for viewing angles however in its Auto mode (LED Brightness) I find the set almost too bright for my tastes even during daytime viewing.

Measurements from a few pages back on the 750 said 3000:1 or so and they are advertising 10,000:1The way they (almost every company) measures most often is what you would call cheating. They torch the settings to measure brightness and then tame it to measure black level. Also at times they will give the native contrast ratio of the chip versus the real world numbers being delivered to the screen. Also there are two types of contrast (ON/OFF and ANSI). Both are equally important.

Yes, someone else pointed that out to me a few pages back. The thing I keep struggling with is why, even If they cheat would they advertise such a low number. Can anyone else even remember a DLP with such a low contrast ratio? At least advertised anyway.

if you don't get hdmi 1.3, you are missing basically 2 features. I forget what they are called, but one is for enhanced black levels and one is for 10-bit color. I believe it is something like xyvcc. The only products that can use these at the moment, to my knowledge, are ps3's and some HD handicams. From what I have read, people believe that movies won't take advantage of these for quite some time because it would require new cameras and whatnot. But that games will probably use them much sooner.

It wasn't a big deal to me because I actually ordered the 6187s originally, but the one I got was shipped broken. The company no longer had those and sent me a 61a750 at no more cost.
----------------------------------------------
from 6189 specs on vann's.com:
3 HDMI Inputs Version 1.3 With CEC With 480i/480p/720i/1080p/1080i Input Support, , 2 Component Video Inputs

DVI Audio In, 2 S-Video, 2 Composite, 2 RF, USB Inputs
-------------------------------------------------------
looks like u do get 1.3 AND 2 RF inputs for if u use antennae and cable but no 120 hz and early in this thread were mentions of super slim (HLT-xx87 and 89) having picture flaws of some kind and that is why they made this years cabinets a little deeper again. Ironically, I just realized that due to my right angle doorway I could probly only fit the super slim in one as big as a 61" into the condo. Wouldn't that b somthing if I ordered one & it would not fit thru the doorway!

Need these quick questions answered soon (if possible) as I'm about ready to pull the trigger on... something anyway, lol.

I've been trying to follow this thread, but it's a full time job!...


1) Have we found any difference or improvement over last years LED DLPs?

2) Did last years LED DLPs have the "reset & blackout" issues???

3) Can I turn off the front illumination of last years LED?

4) what's the code for entering the service menu?... and is it the same for last years and this years LED DLPs?

Thanks!... I prefer the look of this years version... but if nothing has changed but last years didn't have the reset issues and I can turn off that annoying light on the front of the set... I think I'll just get last years model.

:confused::confused::confused:
:D

someone on this thread wondered if auto brightness for room lighting existed. This is from an LG lcd model -LG 52LB5D -specs:

Intelligent Eye Room Light Adjustment

----------------------------------------------
from 6189 specs on vann's.com:
3 HDMI Inputs Version 1.3 With CEC With 480i/480p/720i/1080p/1080i Input Support, , 2 Component Video Inputs

DVI Audio In, 2 S-Video, 2 Composite, 2 RF, USB Inputs
-------------------------------------------------------
looks like u do get 1.3 AND 2 RF inputs for if u use antennae and cable but no 120 hz and early in this thread were mentions of super slim (HLT-xx87 and 89) having picture flaws of some kind and that is why they made this years cabinets a little deeper again. Ironically, I just realized that due to my right angle doorway I could probly only fit the super slim in one as big as a 61" into the condo. Wouldn't that b somthing if I ordered one & it would not fit thru the doorway!

No, the super-slim models were some of the bulb based models, not the LED based xx89-xx89 models.

Yes, someone else pointed that out to me a few pages back. The thing I keep struggling with is why, even If they cheat would they advertise such a low number. Can anyone else even remember a DLP with such a low contrast ratio? At least advertised anyway.


What you shouldn't have to struggle with is that these numbers are totally meaningless in and of themselves, in the real world, where some of us live.

If you see the set and the contrast/brightness/black levels look good to you, buy it.

If they don't, don't.

Manufactures play games with their numbers to confuse some people.

Apparently it's working.... :rolleyes:

someone on this thread wondered if auto brightness for room lighting existed. This is from an LG lcd model -LG 52LB5D -specs:

Intelligent Eye Room Light Adjustment

As does my LG 32LB4D. It works quite well actually.:)

Need these quick questions answered soon (if possible) as I'm about ready to pull the trigger on... something anyway, lol.

I've been trying to follow this thread, but it's a full time job!...


1) Have we found any difference or improvement over last years LED DLPs?

2) Did last years LED DLPs have the "reset & blackout" issues???

3) Can I turn off the front illumination of last years LED?

4) what's the code for entering the service menu?... and is it the same for last years and this years LED DLPs?

Thanks!... I prefer the look of this years version... but if nothing has changed but last years didn't have the reset issues and I can turn off that annoying light on the front of the set... I think I'll just get last years model.

1) I had last year's LED DLP (6187) with a cracked screen. Besides the crack, I think it looked just as good as this set does (61A750). This year's set has an "auto" LED adjust kinda option which I think helps brightness, but I think this year's set might also be a little dimmer without that option (more on this on my next post). Special Note: This years set is only comparable to last year's 6189 because of having HDMI 1.3

2) I didn't watch my set too much so I can't tell you from personal experience, but I did read the thread a lot and I don't recall people complaining about the reset issue

3) Yes you can, but I believe that it was through the service menu, not a normal menu option

4) With the set OFF, hit (in succession) Mute - 1 - 4 - 8 - 2 - Power, this will power the set up at standard settings and the service menu comes up.

On the power down issue, have had my 61a750 since Friday and watched a couple blue rays movies and played the PS3 for about 6 total hours.....it powered down one time during a movie but cam back on within 2 seconds and that has been the only time. Also, I don't have any bowing issues or any other problems that I have noticed....so far so good!

I can't speak for viewing angles however in its Auto mode (LED Brightness) I find the set almost too bright for my tastes even during daytime viewing.

Does the "Auto" mode actually HURT your eyes sometimes? Its not actually the brightness, because I can turn it down to MED and then pump the brightness up to be roughly the same and it'll feel better. Its almost like the intensity of it.

I dunno, I have been messing around, and during daytime viewing I actually pumped the brightness up to like 100 and dropped the setting down to MED yesterday for my viewing. I don't like pumping the brightness up like that. I find myself messing around with these settings all the time lately, with various inputs. I don't like the feeling of needing to tweak these every time I sit down. It would be one thing to just have to turn brightness up or change the setting, but to have to mess with both is annoying me. I am going to see if there are discrete commands for these that I can program into my harmony remote.

Originally Posted by Bill Williams 731 View Post
I ordered the HL61A750 from highdefinitionstore.com, Mar. 21 when it was back ordered... They got a shipment in yesterday and I did get an e-mail with a shipping tracking number yesterday. They shipped with a Co.named: Pilot Freight, from NY.



Broncogeek, I believe in prayer... God heard your prayer loud and clear... Because the HL61A750 was delivered today days ahead of the delivery schedule. The TV was in perfect condition... All I know now is it has great picture right out of the box.

Awesome news. Verry happy for ya!
Myself......I am still waiting on making this purchase. I am not completely 100% convinced that this it the right TV(61A750)

I know I've asked this question twice before but haven't received a response. I just can't believe that none of the owners of the A750 on this board have their PS3 connected to an A/V receiver and not directly to the TV.

I'm trying to determine if connecting a PS3 directly to a receiver via HDMI and not directly to the A750 eliminates the "power down" problem that most owners are experiencing. It seems as though everyone that has reported this problem with their A750 & PS3 have the game console connected directly to the TV.

Come on, doesn't anyone have their PS3 connected this way or can a few owners try connecting to their receiver via HDMI to test?

I know I've asked this question twice before but haven't received a response. I just can't believe that none of the owners of the A750 on this board have their PS3 connected to an A/V receiver and not directly to the TV.

I'm trying to determine if connecting a PS3 directly to a receiver via HDMI and not directly to the A750 eliminates the "power down" problem that most owners are experiencing. It seems as though everyone that has reported this problem with their A750 & PS3 have the game console connected directly to the TV.

Come on, doesn't anyone have their PS3 connected this way or can a few owners try connecting to their receiver via HDMI to test?

Mine is connected directly to my TV, and i do NOT have the power down issue (yet). I don't have a reciever that can do HDMI to test otherwise for you (and I dunno if I would chance my luck either lol)

I know I've asked this question twice before but haven't received a response. I just can't believe that none of the owners of the A750 on this board have their PS3 connected to an A/V receiver and not directly to the TV.

I'm trying to determine if connecting a PS3 directly to a receiver via HDMI and not directly to the A750 eliminates the "power down" problem that most owners are experiencing. It seems as though everyone that has reported this problem with their A750 & PS3 have the game console connected directly to the TV.

Come on, doesn't anyone have their PS3 connected this way or can a few owners try connecting to their receiver via HDMI to test?

Mine is connected via the receiver and has not made the TV reset at all, but I do not have any 1080p Blu-ray, just games.

:confused::confused::confused:
:D

On the 2007 LED models, the blue "front illumination" can be set to:
Always on
On when set is on
Always off.

This can be done from the normal menus; no need to go into the service menu for this.

So I got the reset issue for the first time last night while watching We Were Soldiers HD-DVD at 1080P/24. I don't think there was any excessive action or anything at that point in time no different than the rest of the movie. I've seen some people saying, "The more people that call Samsung and complain about this issue the quicker they are more likely to come up with some sort of fix." What do you do? Just call Samsung and say, "Well I was watching a movie last night when my set powered off then back on" ? Here I was considering myself lucky that I hadn't had the reset problems a lot of people had mentioned :(

So I got the reset issue for the first time last night while watching We Were Soldiers HD-DVD at 1080P/24. I don't think there was any excessive action or anything at that point in time no different than the rest of the movie. I've seen some people saying, "The more people that call Samsung and complain about this issue the quicker they are more likely to come up with some sort of fix." What do you do? Just call Samsung and say, "Well I was watching a movie last night when my set powered off then back on" ? Here I was considering myself lucky that I hadn't had the reset problems a lot of people had mentioned :(

Don't tell them you are having a random problem, they'll think it's just your setup. Call them and demand a fix for this widely known issue. Point them to this thread if you have to.

So I got the reset issue for the first time last night while watching We Were Soldiers HD-DVD at 1080P/24. I don't think there was any excessive action or anything at that point in time no different than the rest of the movie. I've seen some people saying, "The more people that call Samsung and complain about this issue the quicker they are more likely to come up with some sort of fix." What do you do? Just call Samsung and say, "Well I was watching a movie last night when my set powered off then back on" ? Here I was considering myself lucky that I hadn't had the reset problems a lot of people had mentioned :(

Do we now have an instance of "power off" syndrome with an HD-DVD and not only Blu-ray!
hunleyt, more info. please!
What type of HD-DVD player were you using and how is it connected to your sammy. Also, what model samsung, A650 or A750?

Just wanted to add that I got a 61" A750 and love it. Haven't picked up a blue ray player, just been watching DVD's over HDMI with an OPPO. :)

Do we now have an instance of "power off" syndrome with an HD-DVD and not only Blu-ray!
hunleyt, more info. please!
What type of HD-DVD player were you using and how is it connected to your sammy. Also, what model samsung, A650 or A750?

Hey chief this power down reset/recycle issue is not just a blu ray/hd dvd thing you'd be naive to think that... I have a HD Set Top Box from Dish network and mine power cycled while watching HD television thru satellite..

oh and mine is the a750

PIC REQUEST: Can someone that actually has or notices the bowing take a pic with a camera to show me? I really need to see how pronounced this is because I was at the store and didn't notice bowing on any RPTVs there.

Do the 2007 LED DLP models have the bowing problems these 2008 models have?

PIC REQUEST: Can someone that actually has or notices the bowing take a pic with a camera to show me? I really need to see how pronounced this is because I was at the store and didn't notice bowing on any RPTVs there.

Do the 2007 LED DLP models have the bowing problems these 2008 models have?

chief are you trying to talk yourself into getting the older version? If so this is the deal, the new one is basically the 6189 with a few different appearance differences, and the difference mainly between the 6189 or 61750a and the 6187 is the HDMI 1.3. I got this new 61750A on a replacement of the 6187 DLP LED, because it was DOA or a lemon if you will.... good luck and I have not noticed any bowing...

Hey chief this power down reset/recycle issue is not just a blu ray/hd dvd thing you'd be naive to think that... I have a HD Set Top Box from Dish network and mine power cycled while watching HD television thru satellite..

oh and mine is the a750
Naivety aside,
thanks for letting us know what model you have. How about you tell us how it's connected. Is your HD-STB connected stright to the A750 via HDMI or connected to an AVR via HDMI?

I'm also trying to determine if a 1080 i/p source straight to the TV via HDMI is part of the problem. I have the A750 and have my HD-STB Comcast cable (set to output 1080i) & HD-DVD player (Tosh XA2, set to output up to 1080p/24fps connected to my AVR (Denon 3808) first and have not had a single instance of "power off" & reset. I've had the A750 for about 9 days now.

BTW, are you Agent 86's replacement at Control? If not, WTF with all the "chief?"

Naivety aside,
how do you have your STB from Dish connected, straight to your A750 via HDMI or connected to an AVR via HDMI?

I'm also trying to determine if a 1080 i/p source straight to the TV via HDMI is part of the problem. I have the A750 and have my HD-STB Comcast cable (set to output 1080i) & HD-DVD player (Tosh XA2, set to output 1080p) both connected to my AVR (Denon 3808) first and have not had a single instance of "power off" & reset. I've had the A750 for about 9 days now.

I have HDMI cable running from STB to HDMI port 1 on my TV

I have HDMI cable running from PS3 to HDMI port 2 on my TV

I have HDMI cable running from XBox 360 to HDMI port 3 on my TV

I have Onkyo ST-R600 I believe surround sound system

I've now gotten the "power cycle" issue 3 times. The first two where while watching bladerunner blu-ray disc at 1080p/24 via the ps3 on HDMI2. Then I changed from auto to always for 24 playback and watched 3 more blu-rays with no issues. Finally got it again last night during an episode of Buffy (DVD, 1080p/60) also on the ps3 on HDMI2. I had watched 4 other episodes with no issues and it didnt seem to have anything to do with action as it just a talky section of the show. Also cant imagine its a heat issue since it recycles in a few seconds and is then good again for hours. Seems like a syncing/bad command issue.

Havent had the issue with my XBox360 on Component1 or its attached HDDVD drive or the DTV H20 on HDMI1. Several dozen hours of both. Will contact Samsung today or tommorrow.

Naivety aside,
how do you have your STB from Dish connected, straight to your A750 via HDMI or connected to an AVR via HDMI?

I'm also trying to determine if a 1080 i/p source straight to the TV via HDMI is part of the problem. I have the A750 and have my HD-STB Comcast cable (set to output 1080i) & HD-DVD player (Tosh XA2, set to output 1080p) both connected to my AVR (Denon 3808) first and have not had a single instance of "power off" & reset. I've had the A750 for about 9 days now.

Also, when trying to watch Blu Ray from PS3 it says 1080i in top screen not sure if thats just for commercials or if the video is actually playing back in 1080i not 1080p... I have the Blu Ray settings standard which are to "automatically" detect 1080p

What you shouldn't have to struggle with is that these numbers are totally meaningless in and of themselves, in the real world, where some of us live.

If you see the set and the contrast/brightness/black levels look good to you, buy it.

If they don't, don't.

Manufactures play games with their numbers to confuse some people.

Apparently it's working.... :rolleyes:


Right, well there is an educated answer. Im sorry but these are valid questions. I understand how measuring and all that can be played with to advertise a higher contrast ratio but you obviously didnt read my post above where I thought I asked a valid question. I also posted the exact specs that are in the service manuals which we didnt have before. You may have your concerns and I have mine. Its not like I think the listed contrast ratio is God or something. I am trying to understand WHY they went so much lower than the last few years set.

Samsung told me the brightness levels of both sets also confirming the LED is NOT as bright so not only am I doing my research but I provided this information the the forum which we didnt have before. If a company advertises a spec (honest or not) for years and then in their newest model cuts the spec to 1/4 of what it was it is only fair to ask questions. Isnt that what this thread is for? Its not an owners thread, it would be different If I was in there pissing on everyones TV. This is the info thread.

The only responses I have gotten here are it doesnt matter, dont pay attention to that... Well it matters to me. I dont care whether that number is the stone cold figure, I want to know why they felt it had to be changed therefore what else is different about this set compared to the one I sent back?

Get it now? maybe you can read my posts in the last few pages and explain it to me since I already posted that I am confused by this.

Also, when trying to watch Blu Ray from PS3 it says 1080i in top screen not sure if thats just for commercials or if the video is actually playing back in 1080i not 1080p... I have the Blu Ray settings standard which are to "automatically" detect 1080p

This is because your bluray PS3 is outputting 1080i to the TV. It is the TV that does the sensing of the input device, the ps3 will adjust accordingly. For what ever reason the TV has decided (via software), that is can only receive a valid 1080i signal from that device on that port.

On all the Samsungs I have seen, each HDMI port is handled differently.

If anyone is getting a different response then what they thing they should from an output device you should try a different HDMI port on the TV

Right, well there is an educated answer. Im sorry but these are valid questions. I understand how measuring and all that can be played with to advertise a higher contrast ratio but you obviously didnt read my post above where I thought I asked a valid question. I also posted the exact specs that are in the service manuals which we didnt have before. You may have your concerns and I have mine. Its not like I think the listed contrast ratio is God or something. I am trying to understand WHY they went so much lower than the last few years set.

Samsung told me the brightness levels of both sets also confirming the LED is NOT as bright so not only am I doing my research but I provided this information the the forum which we didnt have before. If a company advertises a spec (honest or not) for years and then in their newest model cuts the spec to 1/4 of what it was it is only fair to ask questions. Isnt that what this thread is for? Its not an owners thread, it would be different If I was in there pissing on everyones TV. This is the info thread.

The only responses I have gotten here are it doesnt matter, dont pay attention to that... Well it matters to me. I dont care whether that number is the stone cold figure, I want to know why they felt it had to be changed therefore what else is different about this set compared to the one I sent back?

Get it now? maybe you can read my posts in the last few pages and explain it to me since I already posted that I am confused by this.


Did you read the link posted earlier in this thread in response to your question?

http://www.practical-home-theater-guide.com/contrast-ratio.html

It discusses why worrying about a high contrast ration number probably isn't worth worrying about. Also, after reading it, I suspect that past years models stating 10,000:1 may have been inflated numbers.

Did you read the link posted earlier in this thread in response to your question?

http://www.practical-home-theater-guide.com/contrast-ratio.html

It discusses why worrying about a high contrast ration number probably isn't worth worrying about. Also, after reading it, I suspect that past years models stating 10,000:1 may have been inflated numbers.

I did read it, I kind of understand it. Your statement about them inflating numbers may be valid but why pick the 650 series to be honest and not the 750?

I also wanted to understand If the statement made by Samsung, with regards to those brightness levels are accurate. Samsung claims that those brightness levels can produce deeper blacks with a lower contrast ratio. The link you provided does not cover this.

I wonder If there is a way to find contrast ratio measurements for any sets over the last few years.

I have HDMI cable running from STB to HDMI port 1 on my TV

I have HDMI cable running from PS3 to HDMI port 2 on my TV

I have HDMI cable running from XBox 360 to HDMI port 3 on my TV

I have Onkyo ST-R600 I believe surround sound system

Thanks, you have now confirmed that you have all your video components connected directly to your A750 via HDMI and perhaps this has something to do with the "Power Off" issue. This is what I'm trying to determine.

It's early to tell and I I don't know why, but it looks as though owners connecting direct to theTV via HDMI experience the "Power Off" issue. This might help samsung with a fix.

I recently hooked up my 360 using HDMI (through direct to my TV and not my receiver), but haven't played it enough to warrant the turning off. I do have my HTPC and PS3 hooked up through my receiver into the TV and played both extensively (well a movie on the HTPC and about 30-45 min of Heavenly Sword on PS3) with no power offers yet *keeps crossing fingers*

Thanks, you have now confirmed that you have all your video components connected directly to your A750 via HDMI and perhaps this has something to do with the "Power Off" issue. This is what I'm trying to determine.

It's early to tell and I I don't know why, but it looks as though owners connecting direct to theTV via HDMI experience the "Power Off" issue. This might help samsung with a fix.

We have a Samsung F1080 upconverting DVD player connected to our A750 via HDMI and have yet to experience the "Power Off" issue.

I think it is more related to the source.

We have a Samsung F1080 upconverting DVD player connected to our A750 via HDMI and have yet to experience the "Power Off" issue.

I think it is more related to the source.

I must admit this is baffling, I have an HDMI switch I will probably start using but I highly doubt the HDMI inputs on the TV are the culprit...

I contacted Samsung again on my lunch break and referenced the ECR Transaction # they gave me...

The ECR rep really didn't have an answer for me, so she transferred me to the technical support department.

To sum up my conversation with the tech rep:

1. This is the first he (his department) has heard of power cycling issues with the HL61A750 (per the reports they run). However, he did mention reports are run weekly on Fridays - I assured him this week's reports should have more than a few mentions of the issue.
2. The power cycling issue that appeared in the LNxxA650 LCD's was due to a voltage (regulation?) issue. Perhaps a common part or manufacturing process?
3. He will talk with his supervisors and get back to me tomorrow. I made sure he was aware that if Samsung can not fix the issue in a timely fashion, then I will need to return the T.V.

As extra insurance, yesterday I contacted the store of purchase (HHGregg) and explained the situation to the sales rep. He spoke with his Sales Manager and the GM of the store and they understood my dilemma - they would be willing to extend the return policy if Samsung cannot fix the issue promptly.

I contacted Samsung again on my lunch break and referenced the ECR Transaction # they gave me...

The ECR rep really didn't have an answer for me, so she transferred me to the technical support department.

To sum up my conversation with the tech rep:

1. This is the first he (his department) has heard of power cycling issues with the HL61A750 (per the reports they run). However, he did mention reports are run weekly on Fridays - I assured him this week's reports should have more than a few mentions of the issue.
2. The power cycling issue that appeared in the LNxxA650 LCD's was due to a voltage (regulation?) issue. Perhaps a common part or manufacturing process?
3. He will talk with his supervisors and get back to me tomorrow. I made sure he was aware that if Samsung can not fix the issue in a timely fashion, then I will need to return the T.V.

As extra insurance, yesterday I contacted the store of purchase (HHGregg) and explained the situation to the sales rep. He spoke with his Sales Manager and the GM of the store and they understood my dilemma - they would be willing to extend the return policy if Samsung cannot fix the issue promptly.

jd... how many times has yours power cycled? Could it be the same thing as the LCD I wonder?

I went to circuit city last night, and I still think the 6176 has abetter pic, I did not notice any of the lines bowing but I did notice that anything with bars on the side would be bowed in. What do you guys think is it better then the 6176s?

I know I've asked this question twice before but haven't received a response. I just can't believe that none of the owners of the A750 on this board have their PS3 connected to an A/V receiver and not directly to the TV.

I guess I don't get what you are looking for (I don't have an HDMI switching receiver anyway). We already know it happens on component as well, so what does this prove? If it had to do with HDCP handshaking or what not, it wouldn't affect component.

BTW, I e-mailed Steve Panosian at Samsung last night looking for a committment to fix the issue. I got a read receipt early this morning, but no response yet.

I went to circuit city last night, and I still think the 6176 has abetter pic, I did not notice any of the lines bowing but I did notice that anything with bars on the side would be bowed in. What do you guys think is it better then the 6176s?

Compared to the 750? Brightness and viewing angles for one.

Don't tell them you are having a random problem, they'll think it's just your setup. Call them and demand a fix for this widely known issue. Point them to this thread if you have to.

I don't think that will work depending on who you talk to. They'll just want to replace the board in your set, which will just waste everybody's time and money. If you ask to be put on a "list", they will claim one doesn't exist.

I think going to the higher ups as I have is the way to go, hopefully I get a response soon.

Like JD44, I will be contacted CC to get my return period extended. I had thought about doing this before. I don't want to give up on the TV, but I'm not sure Sammy will fix this in the next 2 weeks or so.

Can someone clarify some specs for me on the 61A650. I have seen 50K:1, 10K:1 and 2500:1 contrast ratios. Would the 120Hz enhance the picture any if the contrast was on the low end. Also, I am having buyers remorse. My wife and I just purchased the 61A650 at Best Buy for the same price as its older brother but I've now become enamored with the LED version, either 6187S or 61A750. Does the LED really make that much of a difference? Is the 61A650 a front projection tv? What advantage would that have? And finally, never was there any mention of warm up time or noise from the wheel. Are these all legitimate concerns?


Oops, my bad. We bought the a750. Good deal and good for us.

Like I said, can someone who has the "bowing issue" take pics?

I might go with last year's model. It seems it has less "bowing" and is cheaper. We don't even know if the new 750 series uses the DC4. If not, the PQ shoudl be the same.

I guess I don't get what you are looking for (I don't have an HDMI switching receiver anyway). We already know it happens on component as well, so what does this prove? If it had to do with HDCP handshaking or what not, it wouldn't affect component.

BTW, I e-mailed Steve Panosian at Samsung last night looking for a committment to fix the issue. I got a read receipt early this morning, but no response yet.

While I can't explain why yet, from the responses and posts it seems it proves that by first sending a 1080i/p signal to a receiver that has the ability to either transcode an analog component signal to an HDMI digital or straight HDMI digital to HDMI digital, instead of straight to the TV, the "Power Cycling" issue doesn't happen.

Perhaps you don't find it interesting, but I for one find it interesting, very interesting. LIke a member stated a number of pages back, this forum does have Science in its name ;) and this could be helpful for a fix.

While I can't explain why yet, from the responses and posts it seems it proves that by first sending a 1080i/p signal to a receiver that has the ability to either transcode an analog component signal to an HDMI digital or straight HDMI digital to HDMI digital, instead of straight to the TV, the "Power Cycling" issue doesn't happen.

Perhaps you don't find it interesting, but I for one find it interesting, very interesting. LIke a member stated a number of pages back, this forum does have Science in its name ;) and this could be helpful for a fix.

I have a D* HR20-700 (OTA recording) connected to a 2 HDMI in 1 out Yamaha RX-V4600 (I would guess switching only) and had one reset while watching a OTA 1080i recording. No problems with other than 1080i. So much for direct connect!

I have a D* HR20-700 (OTA recording) connected to a 2 HDMI in 1 out Yamaha RX-V4600 (I would guess switching only) and had one reset while watching a OTA 1080i recording. No problems with other than 1080i. So much for direct connect!

Maybe so much for only 1080p being the issue as well? Does the TV say it the input is 1080i or 1080p? Maybe the Yamaha is changing 1080i to 1080p, but that would be hard to imagine wouldn't it?

Maybe I'm just losing track but aren't you the first one that has mentioned this happening at anything besides 1080p?

i have an onkyo 810 hdmi switching receiver and have random power resets on my ps3 via hdmi input so it does it direct and with a switcher too.

Actually tejota both tv's have a great picture, but with led there is no 200-300 dollar bulb to replace every couple of years, The led tv bis more of a solid state desighn wth less moving parts as well so less things to go wrong. You sacrifice some brightness but i own the 750 and i can't imagine needing more brightness.

Can someone clarify some specs for me on the 61A650. I have seen 50K:1, 10K:1 and 2500:1 contrast ratios. Would the 120Hz enhace the picture any if the contrast was on the low end. Also, I am having buyers remorse. My wife and I just purchased the 61A650 at Best Buy for the same price as its older brother but I've now become enamored with the LED version, either 6187S or 61A750. Does the LED really make that much of a difference? Is the 61A650 a front projection tv? What advantage would that have. And finally, never was there any mention of warm up time or noise from the wheel. Are these all legitimate concerns?

Actually, If you read the past few pages you can see my confusion on these specs as well. The TV you have is brighter than the LED. Why that is important is in the viewing angles. The LED has poor viewing angles, anything 45 degrees off center and the picture degrades. If you are going to be centered than it isnt an issue. LED does warm up instantly.

Where do you guys get $200-300 for a buld replace? I was lookinfg at bulbs for max $149. Also 2-3 years is on the extreme early side, no? Isn't 5-6 more realistic for most average use?

Where do you guys get $200-300 for a buld replace? I was lookinfg at bulbs for max $149. Also 2-3 years is on the extreme early side, no? Isn't 5-6 more realistic for most average use?

$150 is the cost to distributors. Some of the posters on this board 'know people' and can get those prices. The MSRP on the RPTV bulbs are $300.

jd... how many times has yours power cycled? Could it be the same thing as the LCD I wonder?

I keep bringing up the LCD issue in hopes that the issues are somehow related and maybe, just maybe, someone at Samsung may have an "ah ha!" moment and get straight to a firmware upgrade ;)

I have had six total power cycles.

In approximately seven hours of viewing Blu-Ray material @ 1920 x 1080p, 24Hz, I had the reset a total of three times. I could never reproduce the power cycle with a certain scene - it appeared totally random. Interestingly enough, the only movie that made it thru all the way w/o reset was I Am Legend (but I split up the viewing in two separate sittings).

Since I adjusted the output of the Blu-Ray player (which is a PS3) to 1080i, I have made it through six hours of viewing (1920 x 1080i @ 60Hz) w/o issue.

When I hooked up the XBox 360 via Component and set the resolution to 1080p...I had the set power cycle three times in about two minutes (attempting to play Rock Band).

I adjusted the resolution of the 360 to 1080i and was able to play for a good hour w/o issue.

I have not (knock on wood) had any issue running resolutions of 1080i or lower...

:confused::confused::confused: I was at CC and they had a 7 and a 6 series next to each other........and I really didnt see any diference in brightness or viewing angle at a good glance :confused: i also didnt look at the settings so this might be uselss info:D

Crutchfield has a very good, very in-depth "hands on" description of this TV which I think would be very good for a lot of new/potential owners of this TV to read. I recommend that everyone at least take a look.

http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Product/Item/Main.aspx?i=30561A750&search=hl61a750&tp=162&tab=detailed_info

$150 is the cost to distributors. Some of the posters on this board 'know people' and can get those prices. The MSRP on the RPTV bulbs are $300.

I purchased mine for a HL-S6188 from samsung parts for about $150.....I never saw a price as high as $300.

Do we now have an instance of "power off" syndrome with an HD-DVD and not only Blu-ray!
hunleyt, more info. please!
What type of HD-DVD player were you using and how is it connected to your sammy. Also, what model samsung, A650 or A750?

It's the A750 and connected via HDMI. Also of note possibly is that not too long before the reset there were some pops in the audio. The hd-dvd player is the Toshiba A30. Another thing I meant to ask is that seemed wierd, when the tv reset I didn't get any audio out of my receiver either. The hd-dvd player is hdmi to tv and optical audio to the receiver. I should have tried to rewind a couple of minutes and tried to watch that area again, but I was too into the movie at that point to do any testing. :)

I have been watching my 61A750 since Thursday and love it. The pic is much brighter and detailed than my Mitsu 57731. In fact, it is so bright that I had to turn down the LED intensity setting.

I initially had a problem getting a Blu-Ray player to work via HDMI. I took the Sammy 1400 back and replaced it with another one, which solved the problem.

As for resets, I have been watching satellite via HDMI and 1/2 a movie via HDMI with no problems.

Someone did comment about the TV's Surround Sound resetting itself each time the TV gets turned off. I have noticed the same thing, but it is no big deal. As soon as I get new, deeper glass shelf for the TV stand the outboard surround sound will get hooked up.

I hesitate to mention how little I paid for this awesome TV as I got it $$$ less than anyone has mentioned here. But no matter how much I paid for it, I definitely got my money's worth.

I bought the 750 this weekend at BB. I told the salesperson I had found the set on the internet for $450 less than their price (which was true-- an ebay store is selling them cheap). They more or less did a verbal price match (I bought calibration from them too -- and did not a big discount on that).

I didn't see any bowing in the THX video test section. Couldn't be happier with the PQ (though I'm upgrading from a 9 yr old CRT, so my expectations may be low).

$150 is the cost to distributors. Some of the posters on this board 'know people' and can get those prices. The MSRP on the RPTV bulbs are $300.

Ordered one from Samsung Parts yesterday. Price was $149.99. Delivered by UPS this afternoon. This is the bulb assembly for an HL-R6178.

The price 2 years ago was $179.99.

got our a750 today and the picture is awesome. no problems with resets, but we can't get the remote to go and it screwed up the dish VIP622 remote.

we can view the dish guide and change channels, but we can't control the volume at all. we do have sound to the tv. it's setup with component and audio cables right now. we tried a rocketfish hdmi with no joy.

the samsung remote did work fine when the delivery guys hooked it up, until the tv scanned the OTA HD antenna. The tv locked up and we powered it off with the button on the tv. After that the samsung remote didn't work at all.

i even drove 40 miles to the closest best buy to trade the remote. I tested the old remote and powered down a different model samsung at the store, but the bulb light to turn on the keypad lights didn't work. NOTHING worked with it on the new tv at home.

came home with a new remote that does light up the keypad so i know it works, but the tv doesn't respond at all.

they scheduled a BB service tech to come out, but we'd like to see if we can fix it ourselves.

right now we are going to try to clear the old sony codes in the dish remote. Dish tech didn't do that on the phone before scanning for unknown codes. none of the samsung codes work on the dish remote.

anyone have a dish VIP622 HD receiver know the codes to control the samsung with the dish remote?

still doesn't explain what happened during setup to get the samsung remote to respond at all with the set. we've tried every setup option on the side access on the tv and everything appears ok.

totally stumped! not pissed though, because the tv is spectacular.

thx!

1) I had last year's LED DLP (6187) with a cracked screen. Besides the crack, I think it looked just as good as this set does (61A750). This year's set has an "auto" LED adjust kinda option which I think helps brightness, but I think this year's set might also be a little dimmer without that option (more on this on my next post). Special Note: This years set is only comparable to last year's 6189 because of having HDMI 1.3

2) I didn't watch my set too much so I can't tell you from personal experience, but I did read the thread a lot and I don't recall people complaining about the reset issue

3) Yes you can, but I believe that it was through the service menu, not a normal menu option

4) With the set OFF, hit (in succession) Mute - 1 - 4 - 8 - 2 - Power, this will power the set up at standard settings and the service menu comes up.




THANK YOU!!

So I have just recieved my refurb HD DVD player (HD-A35) through amazon. I know HD is dead, but I used to be using the HD addon to 360 and already have like 50 movies and wanted to get a good player that can do 1080/24p and all the high def audios that will hopefully last for me. Much to my dismay I found that the GOOD hd dvd players are not going down in price and are infact harder to find lol. Anyways... my point is: I now have a 1080/24p device on HDMI 1 and 2 (this and my ps3) and will be doing a good amount of viewing on both. I have yet to experience the reset issue, but if I do I will make sure to be as thorough as I can be when posting it to you guys as, and hopefully we can do some comparison between HDMI 1 and 2 with this setup. Although to be honest I do NOT want to experience this and I hope it doesn't happen, but I figured I would let everyone know my findings.

I received my HL61A750 yesterday. We got free stand as well. It was easy setup, took almost an hour to get ready to press power button. We used XBOX 360 (no HDMI) to play Planet Earth and we were really stumpped. Very crisp picture. More than my expectations. I am getting HD receiver tomorrow and hope to watch more later. We play NBA live for almost an hour. No issues so for. Have not connected my 7.1 HTS. All default setting except Mode- Dynamic.

DISH codes for Samsung TV 505 506 516 523 526 566 573 612 627 647 652-56 658 659 664 665 667 669 670 679 680 704 717 730 738 755
How do you like them apples - All from memory.

On to the power cycle business. For those who have had it in a 750, what does it look/sound like with regards to the led lights on the front of the case and the power light (however you have it set). When the video image returns, what kind of warning, menu, etc. shows up? Does the sound stay or go?

Reminds me of the crappy initial firmware that Samsung did on their first DirecTV HD receiver. It would scan antenna channels and choke on PSIP data if the station wasn't sending it a certain way and hang the receiver. This was like 6 years ago though, it may have nothing to do with firmware bugs, and I've scanned twice on 2 different 750s (3 different markets) and never had a lockup.

the samsung remote did work fine when the delivery guys hooked it up, until the tv scanned the OTA HD antenna. The tv locked up and we powered it off with the button on the tv. After that the samsung remote didn't work at all.

Hooked up my Sony HDR-CX7 last night, set HDMI 2 to Movie mode, (which has some interesting defaults including default of Gamma to -3), enabled xvYCC on the TV (the camcorder has been recording from day 1 this way), and the playback was stunning.

Remember that you have to be in movie mode to enable xvYCC, not sure why.

I have a quick question for A750 owners...

I read that that the following picture sizes are available:

• 16:9 : Sets the picture to 16:9 wide mode.
• Zoom1 : Magnifies the size of the picture on the screen.
• Zoom2 : Expands the Zoom1 format picture.
• Wide Fit : Enlarges the aspect ratio of the picture to fit the entire screen.
• 4:3 : Sets the picture to 4:3 normal mode.
• Just Scan : Use this function to see the full image without any cutoff when
DTV(1080i), HDMI (720p/1080i/1080p) or Component (1080i/1080p) signals
are input.

Can someone explain to me the difference between "Just Scan" and "16:9" mode? Wouldn't 1080i/p signals be 16:9? What is the difference between the modes?

I also have a question regarding Wide Fit. Does this just take a 4:3 source and uniformly stretch the horizontal frame to fit a 16:9? Or does it keep the center of the picture aspect ratio intact and then gradually stretch the edges?

On my current TV, I have a setting that keeps the center of the picture aspect ratio intact and then gradually stretches the edges. I prefer to watch 4:3 sources with this setting over a setting that just stretches the entire image.

I have a quick question for A750 owners...

I read that that the following picture sizes are available:

• 16:9 : Sets the picture to 16:9 wide mode.
• Zoom1 : Magnifies the size of the picture on the screen.
• Zoom2 : Expands the Zoom1 format picture.
• Wide Fit : Enlarges the aspect ratio of the picture to fit the entire screen.
• 4:3 : Sets the picture to 4:3 normal mode.
• Just Scan : Use this function to see the full image without any cutoff when
DTV(1080i), HDMI (720p/1080i/1080p) or Component (1080i/1080p) signals
are input.

Can someone explain to me the difference between "Just Scan" and "16:9" mode? Wouldn't 1080i/p signals be 16:9? What is the difference between the modes?

I also have a question regarding Wide Fit. Does this just take a 4:3 source and uniformly stretch the horizontal frame to fit a 16:9? Or does it keep the center of the picture aspect ratio intact and then gradually stretch the edges?

On my current TV, I have a setting that keeps the center of the picture aspect ratio intact and then gradually stretches the edges. I prefer to watch 4:3 sources with this setting over a setting that just stretches the entire image.

I believe what Justscan does is it compensates for the natural overscan of the TV. Even though an image, whether it be 4:3 or 16:9, is output to the screen, it is projected with the edges cut off all around the image. What justscan should do is "zoom out" or something a little, which is a preset value that Samsung believes will allow the very edges of the image to be viewable instead of projected on the inside of the TV where you cannot see them.

My Sony RPTV has horrid overscan issues and does not have a feature like "justscan" to compensate for it. I wish it did.

Maybe so much for only 1080p being the issue as well? Does the TV say it the input is 1080i or 1080p? Maybe the Yamaha is changing 1080i to 1080p, but that would be hard to imagine wouldn't it?

Maybe I'm just losing track but aren't you the first one that has mentioned this happening at anything besides 1080p?

Matt,
rahulls' Yamaha RX-V4600 is just an HDMI switch. His receiver doesn't have deinterlacing cababilities or video scaling. It does transcode analog video (S-Video & component to digital, HDMI). The RX-V4600 is also only HDMI version 1.1 which covers video up to 1080i so his V4600 is only passing 1080i to the sammy and his sammmy is deinterlacing to 1080p.

So far the majority experiencing the Power Reset issue have their components directly connected to the sammy. We now have 1, rahull using an HDMI v. 1.1 switch. I haven't found any specs on golferbradbest's Onkyo 810, so I don't know what it can do or what version HDMI it is.

The way the sammy seems to work, it allows access to certain setting depending on what and how is connected to it along with modes that are selected. Like you xvYCC only in movie mode. While I'm not an engineer or the like, it seems to me that the sammy has "handshake" problems with connected components. Not HDCP, just handshake and perhaps when the sammy can't reconnect with an input signal, it power cycles/resets itself to establish a reconnect? Just an idea after reading the posts.

What I do know is all my components are connected to my AVR which is HDMI v. 1.3a compliant using all v. 1.3, category 2 class HDMI cables. My AVR also transcodes analog video inputs to HDMI. My STB HD-cable is set to output 1080i and is connected to my AVR which is doing the deinterlacing to 1080p, it then transcodes from component to HDMI to my A750. My HD-DVD player outputs 1080p/24 fps and is also HDMI v. 1.3a compliant and is connected to my AVR too. In the end, my AVR is sending all video to the sammy in 1080p over HDMI v. 1.3a and I have not had a single power reset in about 2 weeks.

Last Friday evening, I was casually talking to my wife while we were surfing the Internet, when she asked "Do you want to drive over to Cincinnati and buy your TV tomorrow?" (Meaning the HL-T6187S.) So I got on Best Buy and Circuit City's sites...hmmm...Best Buy has the A750 for cheaper than the 6187, with 1 in stock at each store? And we still have that Mover's Guide 10% off coupon? And they have No Interest financing for 3 years? Yes, please. Can we leave at 8AM tomorrow and get there when they open? No? Well, okay, I'll take it anyway.

So, on Saturday (after eating lunch, visiting a couple car dealerships--as an aside, I'm awfully impressed by the Infiniti lineup now--and buying stuff at Meijer), we went to BB to see my TV. "Is that it?" I hear my wife ask....No, that's last year's lamp-based model. Walk around to the other side...no, that's last year's LED model. So I found someone to help me, and told him that I was here to buy the HL61A750 that they probably received as their floor model. He said he'd go back and make sure it was in the back, and it was. Then I had him go measure it....uh-oh, it's about 10 inches too tall to fit in my wife's small SUV. I went ahead and bought it anyway, as the financing was supposedly ending Saturday, and I didn't want some stock boy to decide to set up the floor model on a lazy Sunday.

After getting my Best Buy credit line opened, the sales drone goes to ring it up and asks if I want the extended service plan. No, I think I'll be okay...if I do decide on an extended warranty, it won't be with Best Buy. Then he says, "On these DLPs, the lamp will eventually burn out and it's nice to have that plan when it does." I told him I didn't think that LED-based TVs would "burn out"/half bright for like 60,000 hours. Do they even cover lamp burnouts??? "Well, we don't get commission on this, but we've had them go out even on the LED models..." Don't they have a 6187 sitting just a few feet away that has been on 16 hours a day for over a year? But before I started to argue that point with him, my wife stopped the guy to tell him that I know what I'm buying and I've done the research. *shrug* Anyway, when I got the receipt, it said 2 years no interest financing...could've argued that point, but I'll be paying it off within a year.

Out in the parking lot, I called and tried to get my parents to let me borrow their truck the next day, but apparently that's the only vehicle they have working right now.....so we asked my father-in-law to borrow his truck and he said he'd come with us to pick it up, which was good because he was also able to help me carry it up the stairs. We looked at stands at Value City, and they had a couple wife-approved, door-front type stands, but neither were immediately available. If I were a bachelor, I'd go with the Samsung stand....but I have my TV, so I'm happy.

When we got home, I moved the old SD CRT RPTV out of the way (what am I going to do with that friggin thing?), and put the new TV in the floor in its place. Sitting on the couch about 8 to 10 feet away, looking down on it, the viewing angle still looks great. In fact, it looks just fine from the chair that is about 15 feet away, a little past 45 degrees from center. We don't have cable (yet...DSL contract is up in June) or satellite (we have a tree-covered hill on the southwestern side of our house), but I have a cheap-o amplified antenna and pick up all of the networks from 60+ miles away. Looks incredible. I don't even care much for Law and Order, but it looks so great I can't change the channel.

Now, on to the nit-picky things that everyone is going to ask about. I have very minimal bowing on the edges of SD content, but it's only noticeable when the content is uninteresting. I haven't really seen any sloping, but I don't have any channels with a ticker-type thing right now. (I did have it hooked up to the laptop last night, and the task bar looked perfectly straight.) The day we got it, I popped the first Pirates of the Caribbean into my PS3, and about an hour in the TV restarted on me. It is hooked up directly with a 10' MonoPrice HDMI cable, and the TV says it was outputting 1080p@24Hz. I have played MLB 08: The Show on it (at 720p, I think) for a few hours with no restart. Also, with multiple hours of OTA HD, no restarts.

TL;DR--
New HL61A750 from Best Buy (yeah, I know I may have been able to get a better deal on it elsewhere, but I was able to pick it up immediately....once I had a vehicle large enough). I love it. It did shut down once. Minimal bowing, no sloping. Also, this is my first post. Yay.

Congrats on the purchase! And, as to your aside, I love my new G35x! Only major complaint I have that applies to all Nissan/Infiniti's is their paint is kind of soft. But, this is off topic...

Great first post, full of details. Welcome to the forums. :)

Great first post, full of details. Welcome to the forums. :)

Thanks. I've been lurking for a while now (since the 2006 TVs were out). Where do you think I did most of my research?

Congrats on the purchase! And, as to your aside, I love my new G35x! Only major complaint I have that applies to all Nissan/Infiniti's is their paint is kind of soft. But, this is off topic...

Still off-topic, but I'm wanting to wait until the 09 Acura TL hits before I make my decision. The G35x is nice, though, and I'm leaning that way.

Also, are you a Wolverine fan? If so, Michigan sucks, go Bucks! :p Now we're wayyyyy off-topic

Just want to remind people that the reset is not just a HDMI problem. Mine will reset via component cables with my X-Box at 1080p. No problems at 1080i. I really cant see any difference in quality at 1080p so it doesn't bother me to leave it at 1080i.

Just want to remind people that the reset is not just a HDMI problem. Mine will reset via component cables with my X-Box at 1080p. No problems at 1080i. I really cant see any difference in quality at 1080p so it doesn't bother me to leave it at 1080i.

Until you have an Xbox title or content that truly takes advantage of 1080p--but yeah realistically you are right, from 10-12ft I doubt I will ever see the difference between 1080i and 1080p.

14 days down in 30 day return period, Samsung support phone call was a joke and even if Steve Panosian didn't want to personally respond to my e-mail he should at least forward it on to a higher level support person than the drone I got the first time. . .patience. . .its been less than 2 days since he got my e-mail.

Next step is to fight with CC about extending the return period to keep additional pressure on Samsung. . .of course if I want to get the extended warranty I want I'll have to do that before 30 days anyway.

After getting my Best Buy credit line opened, the sales drone goes to ring it up and asks if I want the extended service plan. No, I think I'll be okay...if I do decide on an extended warranty, it won't be with Best Buy.

I got mine from Circuit City, is it possible to buy an extended warranty for the TV somewhere else? Their prices for a warranty which INCLUDES the first year manufacturer warranty is really high......oh, I just bought my TV Friday so it's only been 5 days.....

After getting my Best Buy credit line opened, the sales drone goes to ring it up and asks if I want the extended service plan. No, I think I'll be okay...if I do decide on an extended warranty, it won't be with Best Buy.

I got mine from Circuit City, is it possible to buy an extended warranty for the TV somewhere else? Their prices for a warranty which INCLUDES the first year manufacture warranty is really high......oh, I just bought my TV Friday so it's only been 5 days.....

Most definitely, see threads in this forum about it. There is an "extended warranty" thread that shouldn't be too many pages back.

I got mine from Circuit City, is it possible to buy an extended warranty for the TV somewhere else? Their prices for a warranty which INCLUDES the first year manufacturer warranty is really high......oh, I just bought my TV Friday so it's only been 5 days.....

Yes, you can buy extended warranties from other companies. Circuit City's (don't know about BB) warranty is WAY overpriced. There is an extended warranty thread here on AVS, here it is:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=826857

I went with the Tapeworks Texas warranty for my DLP, and my parents LCD. It was just about $300 LESS than what Circuit City wanted for the same coverage at the time. And the guy that sells them is active on the forum and is very quick to answer any questions. Also, these extended warranties take effect AFTER your manufacturers warranty.

Given the complexity of this technology, and its propensity to need service now and then, I'd recommend buying an extended warranty to anyone.

Yes, you can buy extended warranties from other companies. Circuit City's (don't know about BB) warranty is WAY overpriced. There is an extended warranty thread here on AVS, here it is:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=826857

I went with the Tapeworks Texas warranty for my DLP, and my parents LCD. It was just about $300 LESS than what Circuit City wanted for the same coverage at the time. And the guy that sells them is active on the forum and is very quick to answer any questions. Also, these extended warranties take effect AFTER your manufacturers warranty.

Given the complexity of this technology, and its propensity to need service now and then, I'd recommend buying an extended warranty to anyone.

Thanks for that link to the thread, if we bought the LED model, only get the TV one and not the combo correct since we don't have bulbs/lamps?

Just called Samsung Extended Warranty Division at 1-866-237-5278. They want 239.00 to extend it 1 year and 647.00 to extend it 3 years. ekk!

Concerning the power cycling issue (HL61A750).

I never got the call back that the Tech Support rep promised me yesterday. So, I called them back.

I was transferred to the tech department again...the tech rep read my initial report and immediately said "Did you get the firmware for this?" My pulse raced with anticipation as I questioned, "No, is there one?" "I think so, let me check."

Two minutes later..."Sorry, we don't have one for your model." :(

Anywho, I was promised (again) that the tech would speak with a specialist and I would get a call back tomorrow. We'll see...

He also reiterated that "...this is the first we have heard of this issue." I confirmed that they do indeed get "updated report data" on Fridays. If the power cycling issue is not recognized as a legitimate problem by Monday...I dunno.

OK I went to CC again today after work to see the 61A750. They had the Bourne Identity playing there on HDDVD, and the obvious black borders at the top and bottom of the screen since the ratio is 2 something to 1. I looked long and hard at the movie for a good 10 minutes trying to find bowing and slanting. I coulnd't find anything.

Then I asked the salesman how much the TV was, as there was no price tag. I was surpirsed when he said $2200, expecting $2400. Anyway, I also asked him to up the brightness (the default is 45, contrast default is 96). I'd say a brightness of 55 makes a nice difference. A higher brightness, like 75, makes the image look washed out. I was very impressed with the image. The lighting sucked in the store though and it was hard to make out the image anything over 30 degrees off center. This was apparent on ALL RPTVs. The LCDs were obviously better, maybe 50 degrees was the threshold.

OK, so I asked the sales guy for a tape measure and he gave one to me. I measured the distance from the bottom of the set to the bottom of the image (I measured the height of the black borders at the top and bottom of the screen in each corner. To my great surprise, there was a slant, off at most by 1/5" or so. If I would have never measured it I would have never noticed it. I'd still be happy with this set in my living room. I just want the powerdown issue resolved.

still no luck with dish tv remote controlling sound. been round and round with scans, codes, etc. if we don't get it resolved they'll send us another remote.

they wanted $125 to upgrade the box from VIP622 to the 722. told them we'd pass. I'm about ready to go with a local cable company and dual tuner HD box, to be rid of dish.

still can't get hdmi to work at all on the dish box/samsung. will find out thurs when the BB tech comes out if it's the tv.

the tv itself is absolutely stunning! we don't notice any bowing on news tickers, etc. if it's there, i don't see it, and i can't complain if i don't notice it ;)

put in a call to samsung to try to find a code that would work. no new codes on their tv's so it has to be the remote or dish's remote. they had us do a reset of the tv to factory (thru the clicker - taking batteries out, etc) and it still doesn't work. they are sending us another remote.

don't hesitate to check out this tv. if you're worried about repair issues, just buy an extended warranty and enjoy your purchase!

Samsung still hasn't dropped selling the 2007 HLT-5689S LED DLP model as a smaller alternative to the 2008 HL61A750 LED DLP model. In reading about the power down incidents makes me wonder if it is a software issue, as there were no problems like that with the 2007 series.

Those with "power down" issues should kindly post their TV's firmware and date of build.

still no luck with dish tv remote controlling sound. been round and round with scans, codes, etc. if we don't get it resolved they'll send us another remote.

they wanted $125 to upgrade the box from VIP622 to the 722. told them we'd pass. I'm about ready to go with a local cable company and dual tuner HD box, to be rid of dish.

still can't get hdmi to work at all on the dish box/samsung. will find out thurs when the BB tech comes out if it's the tv.

the tv itself is absolutely stunning! we don't notice any bowing on news tickers, etc. if it's there, i don't see it, and i can't complain if i don't notice it ;)

put in a call to samsung to try to find a code that would work. no new codes on their tv's so it has to be the remote or dish's remote. they had us do a reset of the tv to factory (thru the clicker - taking batteries out, etc) and it still doesn't work. they are sending us another remote.

don't hesitate to check out this tv. if you're worried about repair issues, just buy an extended warranty and enjoy your purchase!


Tell DISH that you are unable to get a picture through HDMI on your HDTV. It is a known problem to them and they offer to replace your receiver without charge.

Those with "power down" issues should kindly post their TV's firmware and date of build.
I'm not sure what the version number is but here is the initial details that come up:
T-AQMAUSC-1001
T-AQMAUSM-1000
EDID SUCCESS
RFS : T-AQMAUSC-20080212
2008-02-28
DMD 125, DSP 2-1-1
DTP-LM-0106-01-0012
Date of purchase : 3/19/2008

Power cycle a couple of times using OTA only.

Settings???? Can more people post their settings? I have been been switching around like crazy trying to find a combo I like and am getting burned out. I would love to see the settings for someone who has calibrated the TV or knows what they are actually doing b/c this is my first HD TV and I am a tech newbie basically. On a positive note, I don't seem to have any bowing, geometry or power down issues! Will keep my fingers crossed though!

you're right patsy - think i'll give them a call tommorow. was reading a dish forum and many ppl have had trouble with hdmi and the vip622. especially the early releases of that box, which i have.

Hello
I am new to the forum and have a question.
I was interested in buying the Samsung 72 inch the 7288, but am not wondering if I should wait for the hl72a650 to come out. I am in the process of building an entertainment center and can not find the dimensions anywhere for the new model. Does anyone here know what the dimensions are ,and if infact it will be shipped in June? Thank you.
Another question, do you think that the hl72a650 will be a lot better then the 7288? I am really don't want to wait but think that it might be worth it
Thank you in advance
Jean-Louis

i think samsung is on top of firmware upgrades:

http://www.samsung.com/us/support/main/supportSupportMain.do

if you don't have a thumb drive, they'll even send you a drive with the firmware on it. can't beat that.


If you do not have a USB memory drive, Samsung can send you a drive containing the firmware. To have a copy of the firmware sent to you, call Samsung Customer Care at 1-800-Samsung (1-800-726-7864). Have your model and serial numbers on hand when you call.


they'll work out the bugs on our tv's i'm sure

Those with "power down" issues should kindly post their TV's firmware and date of build.


How does one find this info?

Thanks

Hate to interrupt all the chatter about shut-down issues, but oh well... :)

After having a front projector for a few years (DLP 720p), and deciding I need something better for normal daytime viewing, I have been looking at and researching TV's for the past month or so.

Had pretty much settled on a flat panel, since they looked so much better in every store I'd been to compared to any rear PJ.

But today in Fry's while looking around I happened upon the new HL61A750 LED DLP. They had a Samsung combo Blue-Ray/HD-DVD player attached via HDMI running 1080p to it, so a good source. The movie Transformers was in there, and just sitting on the menu, so I pressed play, sat back, and was stunned by how good the image looked. DAAAAMN, maybe I gave up on RPJ too soon?

I was so mpressed, I'm now re-considering going with it over a flat panel, seeing it's considerably cheaper for a given size.

The colors, especially skin tones, were natural, contrast looked awesome, and just reminded me why I loved my current DLP PJ so much. I just love the way DLP's look.

What surprised me is I had been totally unimpressed by all the previous Samsung LED DLP's I'd seen in EVERY store. They all looked bad; bad colors, bad viewing angle, too much SSE, moire on the screen, etc. This one however looked awesome. I noticed it was set to "movie" mode in the menu, instead of the normal "eye burn" mode most are set to, so maybe that had something to do with it, plus their TV area is fairly dark, not full bright like your typical BB or CC. At any rate, it looked stellar.

I could swear it had a sticker on it that said 100,000:1 CR, which surprised me given the web site claims 10,000:1, and that's all I've read in this thread? Now I'm questioning my memory, but I am almost positive it said 100,000:1, because I remember thinking "holy cow that's exaggerated!" lol. Just an oddity, I'll have to go back to be sure, and it's across town.

Anyway, just wanted to relay my experience. I finally got an idea how good these TV's can look!

"Big River" just dropped $$ on the 61" 750. Some of you will appreciate a nice price match if you're within 30 days of your purchase...Good luck...

Just got mine today from BB as a replacement for a 6 yr old Phillips 60" RPTV. The picture right out of the box was fantastic. There is no bowing evident. The screen went black for a second or two when I switched from a recorded program to then menu. Is this what some of the owners are talking about? That was the only time it happened and I gues we've had the set on almost 6 hrs watching Tv and a couple of movies. The connect that the HR20-700 has is through HDMI @1080.:D

Alright someone please reply...WHAT IN THE BLUE HELL is Big river.


I've done google searches and scoured everywhere...can't find out what store this is...I'm thinking it's slang for amazon but not sure.

Someone...anyeone

Alright someone please reply...WHAT IN THE BLUE HELL is Big river.


I've done google searches and scoured everywhere...can't find out what store this is...I'm thinking it's slang for amazon but not sure.

Someone...anyeone

Yes, it's slang for Amazon.

"Big River" just dropped $$ on the 61" 750. Some of you will appreciate a nice price match if you're within 30 days of your purchase...Good luck...

that is only 4% off - $100? (they over inflated current MSRP)

It is already less than 2,000 in retail stores here

Cheapest I've seen locally is CC @ 2199.99.

Anyways, anyone have an answer for my Mack Warranty question? :)

OK, so we still have yet to see someone post some truly calibrated settings on here, I am trying my best but don't have any professional disc to use (and am definitely not a professional tech myself). But last night I was watching Beowulf on HD DVD (looks truly awesome btw, almost as 3D as it was at the theatre with glasses) and messing around with the gamma level, and maybe my understanding of gamma is off, but it seems to change a lot more than the actual gamma.

-3 and -2 look correct, but then its a drastic change to -1, another drastic change to 0, and another drastic change to +1. +2 and +3 look correct. There is detail lost and gained going between -1, 0, and +1. I ended up settling for +1 which seems to give all the detail, and a very nice contrast difference; and then dropping brightness down also. I would be very interested to know what other people think of this, especially someone with a more technical eye than mine. This was all noticed IN movie, in multiple scenes. I wonder will this differ between movies? (I wish not, I would like to just get settings I am truly happy with). Any opinions/experience/advice greatly appreciated.

Also, this seems truly out of nowhere, but I wonder one thing for all the people that are having power down issues (which I have yet to have)... what setting do you have for the power on blue LED? I have mine OFF all the time. I know this sounds like a truly pointless question... but that is the only feature that I can think might be different between mine and everyone else. The only other stuff I have done is just messing around with picture quality settings.

BTW my current settings are (*edit* I have the 61A750 btw):
contrast: 80
brightness: anywhere from 35-55 (depending on room brightness) for movie watching, even higher for daytime TV watching (75 sometimes!?)
color: 55
green/red: 55/45
sharpness: 20
movie
warm1
no dynamic contrast/enhanced black level/dnie/dnr
LED adjust: auto (movies), med-auto (tv) <-- this varies along with brightness
gamma: ??????? (+1 as of last night's showing of Beowulf lol)
color range: wide (for ps3 and HD DVD) or normal (for tv)
xvycc: on (for ps3 and HD DVD) or off (for tv)

Awesome, will try those settings when I get home and see what I think. Anyone have it professionally done or with a disk on their own? I feel like the picture is great but could be much better with the right settings, I just don't know what they might be!

Also, would love to know what settings people use when watching baseball on standard def. From about ten feet away, the picture is not that good but the farther back you get, the better it looks. Not sure if there is help for this or not.

Damb... The pre-order price at Amazon for the HL67A750 went from $2552 to $2899 since yesterday... Hopefully the power-off firmware issues will be resolved before that TV ships on June 1st.

Anyways, anyone have an answer for my Mack Warranty question? :)

I contacted them, and this is also covered in the warranty thread. You don't need a bulb warranty on a LED DLP.

The screen went black for a second or two when I switched from a recorded program to then menu. Is this what some of the owners are talking about? That was the only time it happened and I gues we've had the set on almost 6 hrs watching Tv and a couple of movies. The connect that the HR20-700 has is through HDMI @1080.:D

No not what we are talking about. The HR20-700 is my main source as well and it only does 1080i max. Most people have only seen this issue with 1080p sources. Try some of those and see if you don't see what we're talking about . . .what you saw if it was on the DirecTV box was it switching resolutions and the TV trying to keep up. Check and see if you have your DirecTV box set to native res and watch the blue lights on the front change from 480p to 720p to 1080i when you change channels or enter guides/menus. And on that note it keeps up with res changes on the DirecTV HD DVR better than my previous Sammy DLP or my Philips LCD.

I could swear it had a sticker on it that said 100,000:1 CR, which surprised me given the web site claims 10,000:1, and that's all I've read in this thread? Now I'm questioning my memory, but I am almost positive it said 100,000:1, because I remember thinking "holy cow that's exaggerated!" lol. Just an oddity, I'll have to go back to be sure, and it's across town.

That isn't a Samsung sticker if that is what you saw. I've had two sets and seen models fresh on the floor and never saw that.

called dish tech support about the hdmi and clicker. he was a total ahole! said they don't guarantee their clickers will work with every tv. so how do i get into the setup menu's etc? what an idiot.

then he denied any problem with the VIP622 and hdmi. we never got as far as troubleshooting that, because as soon as he had us hit the mute button on the dish remote it locked us out of the samsung clicker again.

he did his whine again how they don't guarantee, blah blah. WTF? my husband hung up on him.

BB tech will be here soon and see if it's the tv's RF being too sensitive or something else and bring a dvd player to check hdmi.

if it's dish, good by dish. i'm sick of using cell phone minutes and endless calls to clueless techs that screw up our equip so it doesn't function at all. will go with local cable if it's a dish problem.

unbelievable.

I've been using a Dish VIP622 for over a year via HDMI to an Optoma projector. Works perfectly. Doesn't help you I know, heh.

I'm not sure about your question regarding "clickers" and getting into the menu. Just use the TV's remote, am I missing something?

called dish tech support about the hdmi and clicker. he was a total ahole! said they don't guarantee their clickers will work with every tv. so how do i get into the setup menu's etc? what an idiot.

then he denied any problem with the VIP622 and hdmi. we never got as far as troubleshooting that, because as soon as he had us hit the mute button on the dish remote it locked us out of the samsung clicker again.

he did his whine again how they don't guarantee, blah blah. WTF? my husband hung up on him.

BB tech will be here soon and see if it's the tv's RF being too sensitive or something else and bring a dvd player to check hdmi.

if it's dish, good by dish. i'm sick of using cell phone minutes and endless calls to clueless techs that screw up our equip so it doesn't function at all. will go with local cable if it's a dish problem.

unbelievable.

I wouldn't give up on Dish for cable, unless your local cable has a REAL good rep.

Dish DVR is about the best there is...that said, I feel your pain about some of the nimrods at tech support--but that's true everywhere. They don't call it minimun wage for nothing.

I switched to a 722 and I love it--nearly twice the recording space, much quieter, and black instead of silver. Other than that it's the same.

Sounds to me like you may have a bad unit--ask for higher level support.

Good luck.

I'm not sure what the version number is but here is the initial details that come up:
T-AQMAUSC-1001
T-AQMAUSM-1000
EDID SUCCESS
RFS : T-AQMAUSC-20080212
2008-02-28
DMD 125, DSP 2-1-1
DTP-LM-0106-01-0012
Date of purchase : 3/19/2008

Power cycle a couple of times using OTA only.

What is "DMD 125, DSP 2-1-1"?

Could that be a clue to the Dark Chip model?

Anyone with an older model to compare?

Just a thought... :)

thx guys. BB will deliver another set when they are in stock. there may be something wrong with the set. my husband did say the delivery guys dropped it about 4" on our concrete porch. that may have jarred something. we didn't even attempt to hook up the hdmi when the samsung clicker locked up on him too.

and the anynet menu is stuck on ON. the previous delivery guys turned that on and there is no way to shut it off. the samsung remote locked up when trying to change it so it has nothing to do with dish i guess.

we'll wait for the new tv and see if everything works properly with dish before we decide.

dish said the other day that the 722 would be another $150. we've already paid $300 for the 622 less than 2 yrs ago. I have no interest in continuing to buy new equip from them to fix their glitches. I even have a maintenence contract with them, but it doesn't seem to help getting them to do anything.

the local cable has HD and it's running off cox's pipeline. they're just a small company that resells cox service.

i'd sure like to deal with a local trouble call than dish though if the new tv doesn't fix the problem.

i'll escalate with dish if the new tv doesn't work with hdmi and see if they want to service their equipment.

the set is GREAT though. a definite recommend!

What is "DMD 125, DSP 2-1-1"?

Could that be a clue to the Dark Chip model?

Anyone with an older model to compare?

Just a thought... :)

Probably not, since all the service menu info and menus were posted a couple weeks ago and nobody deciphered it then. That reminds me, my old set is gone, and I never enabled expert settings (and am afraid to on my "keeper" set), I'm surprised nobody has done this yet. You'd think we would have heard from a pro calibrator by now on this. . .

Ok, I've heard back from an executive at Samsung. He is going to try to find out something and get back to me on the black screen/power cycle issue.

He says support does report new questions and customer feedback daily, so please consider calling Samsung if you have not already if you have experienced the issue at all.

Paraphrasing, he wonders if the source devices are not completely complying to standards, but he also says that Samsung needs to address issues with popular devices.

I will report back here with any new information.

Ok, I've heard back from an executive at Samsung. He is going to try to find out something and get back to me on the black screen/power cycle issue.

He says support does report new questions and customer feedback daily, so please consider calling Samsung if you have not already if you have experienced the issue at all.

Paraphrasing, he wonders if the source devices are not completely complying to standards, but he also says that Samsung needs to address issues with popular devices.

I will report back here with any new information.

You da' man! Do keep us informed.

I have very minimal bowing on the edges of SD content, but it's only noticeable when the content is uninteresting.

Excellent post. Especially this line...:D

Extended warranty question for anyone: haven't checked out the extended warranty thread that is referenced (probably should do that first), but I'm curious if any of these warranties offer onsite repair. And, how soon after buying do you need to get one (assuming you don't want to buy from the TV retailer itself)?

Ok, I've heard back from an executive at Samsung. He is going to try to find out something and get back to me on the black screen/power cycle issue.

He says support does report new questions and customer feedback daily, so please consider calling Samsung if you have not already if you have experienced the issue at all.

Paraphrasing, he wonders if the source devices are not completely complying to standards, but he also says that Samsung needs to address issues with popular devices.

I will report back here with any new information.

I called again and spoke with second level. He's only answer was it could be a number of things so we need to send out a tech. Obviously, since the problem is not happening all the time, there's no telling what could be wrong so I'm concerned with this approach. Also, as to the "sourcing" issue, sure is hard to get more basic then just OTA. :D

Ok, I've heard back from an executive at Samsung. He is going to try to find out something and get back to me on the black screen/power cycle issue.

Paraphrasing, he wonders if the source devices are not completely complying to standards, but he also says that Samsung needs to address issues with popular devices.



Sure sounds like the Sammy exec you spoke with is thinking the same thing I posted yesterday, a "handshake" issue.

Also, as to the "sourcing" issue, sure is hard to get more basic then just OTA. :D

But OTA isn't 1080p :confused:, I must have missed it if that was mentioned in the thread before.

They should be able to reproduce this internally. I guess if they are going to be like this about it, they can send a tech out just so I can show them the issue, I'll invite them to bring their own fully compliant 1080p source to test. Hopefully we'll get a better response soon.

Ok after all my rantings about contrast ratio's here is an honest comparision of the 650 vs 750 series.

I have spent a week comparing these sets. I am trying to replace a HLS5087W that has the side shadow. I bought a HLT6176 that was garbage due to the ultra slim cabinet. The picture on both of these sets was great, they just had issues.

My first impression of the 750 was not that great, at first at least. I am used to bright sets. The 750 rings in with a brightness rating of 450 CD over M sq. That isnt bad but is no where near what the bulb sets put out. So basically, dont expect the LED to be close to the brightness of a bulb set. The colors were good if not great. The new viewing modes are staggering as are the tuning options. I like that you can now adjust dynamic contrast in Movie mode. I don't like that i only have xv support in movie mode but it using it makes the picture look a lot less washed out. Viewing angles remain bad, If this is an issue with you than look at the bulb set.

My impressions of the bulb set are similar to the LED except I felt the 650 was sharper. The LED (most likely due to brightness) seemed a little more muddy than the 650. I am not saying it has a muddy picture, I am saying the 650 was sharper. Here's why, the 6 series has a brightness of 650 CD which matches that of many LCD's out there. Many of you might say the brightness on the LED is more than enough and you would be right If you are sitting centered to the set. THe bulb has a much more forgiving view. I estimate the LED starts to degrade 45 degrees of center while the Bulb was more like 70 degrees of center.

Blacks were great on both sets. Obviously you can turn on dynamic contrast and get black but on both sets this "crushed" the blacks. Due to this I choose the bulb model. Viewing angles are a big deal for me so I will live with the bulb. The LED is a fine set, I just preferred the Bulb.

Extended warranty question for anyone: haven't checked out the extended warranty thread that is referenced (probably should do that first), but I'm curious if any of these warranties offer onsite repair. And, how soon after buying do you need to get one (assuming you don't want to buy from the TV retailer itself)?

I don't think you are going to get that guarantee. You can get an in-home service warranty (at this size of TV it probably will be), but that doesn't prevent them from coming and getting the TV and taking it back to the shop and transporting it back when they get done fixing it. That is the only way my local shop would do it.

But OTA isn't 1080p :confused:, I must have missed it if that was mentioned in the thread before.

They should be able to reproduce this internally. I guess if they are going to be like this about it, they can send a tech out just so I can show them the issue, I'll invite them to bring their own fully compliant 1080p source to test. Hopefully we'll get a better response soon.

Being an IT person, I know the value of repeatability. From my I've seen (and heard), this power cycle isn't that repeatable (with possibly one exception on this board). Thus, my problem in allowing a service guy to come in. I don't want parts to be changed and changed and changed to "find" the problem.

In my case, I've seen the issue twice in the 3 weeks we've had this TV.

Viewing angles are a big deal for me so I will live with the bulb. The LED is a fine set, I just preferred the Bulb.

Angle must be a big deal if you are going to deal with the bulb and color wheel (if price isn't an object) ;)

Being an IT person, I know the value of repeatability. From my I've seen (and heard), this power cycle isn't that repeatable. Thus, my problem in allowing a service guy to come in.


Do you mean repeatable at all or repeatable for you? There are many examples in this thread where people can reproduce this behavior almost at will.

Angle must be a big deal if you are going to deal with the bulb and color wheel (if price isn't an object) ;)



Do you mean repeatable at all or repeatable for you? There are many examples in this thread where people can reproduce this behavior almost at will.
I only remember one that was repeatable. Seems like it was with explosions, as I recall. Seems like the rest were less repeatable. By repeatable, I mean that a person can show this to somebody at will (i.e. over and over) so that they can properly determine the source of the issue.

I only remember one that was repeatable. Seems like it was with explosions, as I recall. Seems like the rest were less repeatable. By repeatable, I mean that a person can show this to somebody at will (i.e. over and over) so that they can properly determine the source of the issue.

I stated that I can make it happen on my Xbox 360 every time I try for a few minutes. By component. I think somebody at Samsung could probably spend a few minutes on the phone with me and hookup a 360 and see what I see. I don't even have to be in a specific game.

In my experience the power cycle isnt repeatable. I can rewatch a scene that caused the issue 5 or 6 times afterward with no issues. The only thing I have noticed is that it takes some time to happen. The fastest Ive had was about 25mins into viewing a program. And it could have been longer than that since I may have tossed the disc in and gone off while it sat on the menu, I just cant remember. Most have been about 45mins in and all have been on the ps3.

I don't like that i only have xv support in movie mode but it using it makes the picture look a lot less washed out.Isn't the only source that supports extended color a camcorder?

My impressions of the bulb set are similar to the LED except I felt the 650 was sharper. The LED (most likely due to brightness) seemed a little more muddy than the 650. I am not saying it has a muddy picture, I am saying the 650 was sharper.Brightness has nothing to with how sharp an image is.

Blacks were great on both sets. Obviously you can turn on dynamic contrast and get black but on both sets this "crushed" the blacks.When changing the dynamic contrast setting you would have to adjust Brightness, Contrast, and Gamma before making any judgements.

I stated that I can make it happen on my Xbox 360 every time I try for a few minutes. By component. I think somebody at Samsung could probably spend a few minutes on the phone with me and hookup a 360 and see what I see. I don't even have to be in a specific game.

I've played my 360 over component at 1080p several hours straight on R6V2, UaW, and DMC4 without a powercyle. Are you doing something specific?

I've played my 360 over component at 1080p several hours straight on R6V2, UaW, and DMC4 without a powercyle. Are you doing something specific?

I can generate it going through the blades on Inside Xbox. It may have something to do with the backgrounds or specific content on certain blades (I have a camera hooked up too), so I'm not saying everyone can definitely reproduce it (almost) at will, but I can.

I guess I need to mess more with a 1080p source on HDMI so I can rule out cabling. My gimped 360 (that I can't replace because of Microsoft's DRM fiasco) doesn't support HDMI (without buying a HDMI adapter from Mad Catz, which I may need to do at least to try it).

thx guys. BB will deliver another set when they are in stock. there may be something wrong with the set. my husband did say the delivery guys dropped it about 4" on our concrete porch. that may have jarred something. we didn't even attempt to hook up the hdmi when the samsung clicker locked up on him too.

and the anynet menu is stuck on ON. the previous delivery guys turned that on and there is no way to shut it off. the samsung remote locked up when trying to change it so it has nothing to do with dish i guess.

we'll wait for the new tv and see if everything works properly with dish before we decide.

dish said the other day that the 722 would be another $150. we've already paid $300 for the 622 less than 2 yrs ago. I have no interest in continuing to buy new equip from them to fix their glitches. I even have a maintenence contract with them, but it doesn't seem to help getting them to do anything.

the local cable has HD and it's running off cox's pipeline. they're just a small company that resells cox service.

i'd sure like to deal with a local trouble call than dish though if the new tv doesn't fix the problem.

i'll escalate with dish if the new tv doesn't work with hdmi and see if they want to service their equipment.

the set is GREAT though. a definite recommend!

If you have the Dish home warranty or whatever it's called (it may be part of a lease the equipment dea;--sorry not sure) they will send you a new DVR in a box very quickly, and a box with return postage paid. makes glitches quite painless, but it doees cost an extra six bucks a month or so.

Anyway it works for me.

Sorry for the OT posts. :)

Ok after all my rantings about contrast ratio's here is an honest comparision of the 650 vs 750 series.

I have spent a week comparing these sets. I am trying to replace a HLS5087W that has the side shadow. I bought a HLT6176 that was garbage due to the ultra slim cabinet. The picture on both of these sets was great, they just had issues.

My first impression of the 750 was not that great, at first at least. I am used to bright sets. The 750 rings in with a brightness rating of 450 CD over M sq. That isnt bad but is no where near what the bulb sets put out. So basically, dont expect the LED to be close to the brightness of a bulb set. The colors were good if not great. The new viewing modes are staggering as are the tuning options. I like that you can now adjust dynamic contrast in Movie mode. I don't like that i only have xv support in movie mode but it using it makes the picture look a lot less washed out. Viewing angles remain bad, If this is an issue with you than look at the bulb set.

My impressions of the bulb set are similar to the LED except I felt the 650 was sharper. The LED (most likely due to brightness) seemed a little more muddy than the 650. I am not saying it has a muddy picture, I am saying the 650 was sharper. Here's why, the 6 series has a brightness of 650 CD which matches that of many LCD's out there. Many of you might say the brightness on the LED is more than enough and you would be right If you are sitting centered to the set. THe bulb has a much more forgiving view. I estimate the LED starts to degrade 45 degrees of center while the Bulb was more like 70 degrees of center.

Blacks were great on both sets. Obviously you can turn on dynamic contrast and get black but on both sets this "crushed" the blacks. Due to this I choose the bulb model. Viewing angles are a big deal for me so I will live with the bulb. The LED is a fine set, I just preferred the Bulb.

Good post, fair comparison--thanks. :)

I have been watching this thread with interest to see what happens with the auto-turn off problem.

Samsung has on their Support page (http://www.samsung.com/us/support/main/supportSupportMain.do) right now an A650 auto off firmware upgrade to correct an auto off issue in 650 series projectors. It says April 4, 2008 which is 6 days ago.

Is this the same issue? I assume the 750 would get an update too if this is happening on them?

I stated that I can make it happen on my Xbox 360 every time I try for a few minutes. By component. I think somebody at Samsung could probably spend a few minutes on the phone with me and hookup a 360 and see what I see. I don't even have to be in a specific game.
Great, all the better. I must have missed this.

I have been watching this thread with interest to see what happens with the auto-turn off problem.

Samsung has on their Support page (http://www.samsung.com/us/support/main/supportSupportMain.do) right now an A650 auto off firmware upgrade to correct an auto off issue in 650 series projectors. It says April 4, 2008 which is 6 days ago.

Is this the same issue? I assume the 750 would get an update too if this is happening on them?

Its actually for the LNxxA650 series LCDs not the HLxxA650 DLPs.

I guess I need to mess more with a 1080p source on HDMI so I can rule out cabling.To my thinking there is nothing outside of the set that should turn it off and on so it's an issue with the set itself.

The only unknown is what triggers the action. Either it gets set off from external sources by receiving certain data (via component or HDMI) or gets randomly triggered via internal processing that goes nuts and it resets itself.

Regardless of how it's happens it's happening within the set and I know for a fact the same sources are being used on other display devices (two others in my case) without acting badly and even if they were that's no excuse for the set to turn itself off. :)

called dish tech support about the hdmi and clicker. he was a total ahole! said they don't guarantee their clickers will work with every tv. so how do i get into the setup menu's etc? what an idiot.

then he denied any problem with the VIP622 and hdmi. we never got as far as troubleshooting that, because as soon as he had us hit the mute button on the dish remote it locked us out of the samsung clicker again.

he did his whine again how they don't guarantee, blah blah. WTF? my husband hung up on him.

BB tech will be here soon and see if it's the tv's RF being too sensitive or something else and bring a dvd player to check hdmi.

if it's dish, good by dish. i'm sick of using cell phone minutes and endless calls to clueless techs that screw up our equip so it doesn't function at all. will go with local cable if it's a dish problem.

unbelievable.

Do you have Anynet+ turned on? If so, you may want to turn that off in your TV's settings and give that a try.

UPDATE: Nevermind, I saw that it is stuck on. I bet this is the problem.

Isn't he only source that supports extended color a camcorder?

Brightness has nothing to with how sharp an image is.

Maybe not technically but there was a sharpness that was lacking compared to the bulb set. Perhaps its the light engine or the processing. They do have different names for light engines so who knows. Can it be tightened up? maybe but you cannot match the brightness.

When changing the dynamic contrast setting you would have to adjust Brightness, Contrast, and Gamma before making any judgements.

I did adjust the settings, the only way it doesnt crush blacks is turning the contrast all the way down which defeats the point. Dynamic Contrast is 100% contrast.

[QUOTE=turls;13608162]Angle must be a big deal if you are going to deal with the bulb and color wheel (if price isn't an object) ;)


Price was not the object. I thought the viewing angles were severe. Forget vertically, the bulb model smoked the LED here. 45 degree angle was quite poor. If you read reviews of last years LED sets the reviewers at ultimateav rated the LED's amoung the poorest in viewing angle and the ability to produce blacks.

yes i have the dish $6. a month plan. as soon as we get the new tv, we'll tshoot it ourselves and if not get dish to replace the box. i think the tech today was just being a d**k.

yes anynet is probably the problem.

we found 2 other possible issues with our stuck on stupid a750. the 2nd component connection doesn't output red, although it was setup correctly. could be a bad component cable though.

the 2nd issue is we had a tv reset while watching a dvd. we had to FF past the chapter that caused the problem. it happened again on another chapter.

what may be different from the other resets and may just be my lemon and not the common reset problem:

we were on AVI cables (because of the component cable issue)

before the tv reset, it lost the signal and was searching and then it rebooted.

the other times the dvd player itself shut off. the tv remained on.

so maybe the problem is in the handshake with peripheral equipment through all connections?

i'm hoping the next one is better. still love the set though.

for the person that said the sharpness wasn't equal to the 650, i don't know if you went thru all the settings, but i did notice in the menu that our sharpness is set to ZERO and the picture is still stunning.

hope this helps you guys document what may be happening.

WOW my head no hurts. I just sat down and read about 95% of the post on this thread becuase i am interested in this TV. AND wow i need a pill now haha.

I was going with a 52" LCD until i saw this TV and now i am thinking going with this one, but now with all the shut off issues i am thinkin about going back to LCD now.

WOW my head no hurts. I just sat down and read about 95% of the post on this thread becuase i am interested in this TV. AND wow i need a pill now haha.

I was going with a 52" LCD until i saw this TV and now i am thinking going with this one, but now with all the shut off issues i am thinkin about going back to LCD now.
As an owner, I'm confident that this is easily fixed (once they figure out the problem). So, you could just wait a short time and see.

I did adjust the settings, the only way it doesnt crush blacks is turning the contrast all the way down which defeats the point. Dynamic Contrast is 100% contrast.The Contrast setting shouldn't effect black level at all. Brightness and Gamma would however. The contrast setting should only effect white level. I haven't play enough with this set to see if it breaks the rules or not. :)

Doesn't Dynamic Contrast control the iris setting? What did you use for test patterns? The free HD version here works very well...

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=570937

Last Friday evening, I was casually talking to my wife while we were surfing the Internet, when she asked "Do you want to drive over to Cincinnati and buy your TV tomorrow?" (Meaning the HL-T6187S.) So I got on Best Buy and Circuit City's sites...hmmm...Best Buy has the A750 for cheaper than the 6187, with 1 in stock at each store? And we still have that Mover's Guide 10% off coupon? And they have No Interest financing for 3 years? Yes, please. Can we leave at 8AM tomorrow and get there when they open? No? Well, okay, I'll take it anyway.

So, on Saturday (after eating lunch, visiting a couple car dealerships--as an aside, I'm awfully impressed by the Infiniti lineup now--and buying stuff at Meijer), we went to BB to see my TV. "Is that it?" I hear my wife ask....No, that's last year's lamp-based model. Walk around to the other side...no, that's last year's LED model. So I found someone to help me, and told him that I was here to buy the HL61A750 that they probably received as their floor model. He said he'd go back and make sure it was in the back, and it was. Then I had him go measure it....uh-oh, it's about 10 inches too tall to fit in my wife's small SUV. I went ahead and bought it anyway, as the financing was supposedly ending Saturday, and I didn't want some stock boy to decide to set up the floor model on a lazy Sunday.

After getting my Best Buy credit line opened, the sales drone goes to ring it up and asks if I want the extended service plan. No, I think I'll be okay...if I do decide on an extended warranty, it won't be with Best Buy. Then he says, "On these DLPs, the lamp will eventually burn out and it's nice to have that plan when it does." I told him I didn't think that LED-based TVs would "burn out"/half bright for like 60,000 hours. Do they even cover lamp burnouts??? "Well, we don't get commission on this, but we've had them go out even on the LED models..." Don't they have a 6187 sitting just a few feet away that has been on 16 hours a day for over a year? But before I started to argue that point with him, my wife stopped the guy to tell him that I know what I'm buying and I've done the research. *shrug* Anyway, when I got the receipt, it said 2 years no interest financing...could've argued that point, but I'll be paying it off within a year.

Out in the parking lot, I called and tried to get my parents to let me borrow their truck the next day, but apparently that's the only vehicle they have working right now.....so we asked my father-in-law to borrow his truck and he said he'd come with us to pick it up, which was good because he was also able to help me carry it up the stairs. We looked at stands at Value City, and they had a couple wife-approved, door-front type stands, but neither were immediately available. If I were a bachelor, I'd go with the Samsung stand....but I have my TV, so I'm happy.

When we got home, I moved the old SD CRT RPTV out of the way (what am I going to do with that friggin thing?), and put the new TV in the floor in its place. Sitting on the couch about 8 to 10 feet away, looking down on it, the viewing angle still looks great. In fact, it looks just fine from the chair that is about 15 feet away, a little past 45 degrees from center. We don't have cable (yet...DSL contract is up in June) or satellite (we have a tree-covered hill on the southwestern side of our house), but I have a cheap-o amplified antenna and pick up all of the networks from 60+ miles away. Looks incredible. I don't even care much for Law and Order, but it looks so great I can't change the channel.

Now, on to the nit-picky things that everyone is going to ask about. I have very minimal bowing on the edges of SD content, but it's only noticeable when the content is uninteresting. I haven't really seen any sloping, but I don't have any channels with a ticker-type thing right now. (I did have it hooked up to the laptop last night, and the task bar looked perfectly straight.) The day we got it, I popped the first Pirates of the Caribbean into my PS3, and about an hour in the TV restarted on me. It is hooked up directly with a 10' MonoPrice HDMI cable, and the TV says it was outputting 1080p@24Hz. I have played MLB 08: The Show on it (at 720p, I think) for a few hours with no restart. Also, with multiple hours of OTA HD, no restarts.

TL;DR--
New HL61A750 from Best Buy (yeah, I know I may have been able to get a better deal on it elsewhere, but I was able to pick it up immediately....once I had a vehicle large enough). I love it. It did shut down once. Minimal bowing, no sloping. Also, this is my first post. Yay.

Thanks for the short novel. I haven't read it yet but I'll be meaning to when I get a free slot open on my schedule.

Thanks for the short novel. I haven't read it yet but I'll be meaning to when I get a free slot open on my schedule.

"TL;DR" = "Too Long; Didn't Read"...I put that there just for guys like you...;)

Still Too Long; Still Didn't Read:
A+ TV, 1 restart, little bowing, 0 sloping, 3rd(?) post...*shrug*

Still Too Long; Still Didn't Read:
A+ TV, 1 restart, little bowing, 0 sloping, 3rd(?) post...*shrug*

Could you be a little more specific here? :)

I'm not real sure this is really the same thing others are experiencing. I know the videos are a little rough, these are my first YouTube uploads.

I have not been able to get "black screen" or power cycle issues (or "tearing") on my 1080p HTPC source. I think I only had the actual power cycle issue once, in fact it never came back on so it was a power down issue.

My next step will be to try different cables on the 360.

On the video of the Viva Pinata Party Animals startup, you can see the "info" screen with the res pop up a few times. All the tearing and blackout are what actually happened (not encoding error). The lack of focus in some areas is my fault.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3wXQkbc1JGg

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6Mc2mj--xn0

The Contrast setting shouldn't effect black level at all. Brightness and Gamma would however. The contrast setting should only effect white level. I haven't play enough with this set to see if it breaks the rules or not. :)

Doesn't Dynamic Contrast control the iris setting? What did you use for test patterns? The free HD version here works very well...

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=570937

What I mean is under the Dynamic setting, Contrast is turned up to 100%. That in combination with DNIe crushes the blacks.

I'm not real sure this is really the same thing others are experiencing. I know the videos are a little rough, these are my first YouTube uploads.

I have not been able to get "black screen" or power cycle issues (or "tearing") on my 1080p HTPC source. I think I only had the actual power cycle issue once, in fact it never came back on so it was a power down issue.

My next step will be to try different cables on the 360.

On the video of the Viva Pinata Party Animals startup, you can see the "info" screen with the res pop up a few times. All the tearing and blackout are what actually happened (not encoding error). The lack of focus in some areas is my fault.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3wXQkbc1JGg

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6Mc2mj--xn0

turls,

On the first link, what is connected to the TV, which port is used, and what signal are you sending? (What? XBox, video game?) (Port: Component 1?) (Sending: 1080p ?)

Same question on the second link?

Doe you have a regular Blu Ray player? If so, what port, and what signal, and does it have the same problem as above?

What I mean is under the Dynamic setting, Contrast is turned up to 100%. That in combination with DNIe crushes the blacks.


I think there is a mixup here, as there is a setting called "dynamic contrast" under the more details part. This is what I thought you were referring to originally (and the other poster I believe).

Yes, with the "dynamic" mode setting, contrast is pumped up and blacks are crushed. The only reason why I can think this mode exists is for the tv to jump at someone on a showroom

I'm not real sure this is really the same thing others are experiencing. I know the videos are a little rough, these are my first YouTube uploads.

I have not been able to get "black screen" or power cycle issues (or "tearing") on my 1080p HTPC source. I think I only had the actual power cycle issue once, in fact it never came back on so it was a power down issue.

My next step will be to try different cables on the 360.

On the video of the Viva Pinata Party Animals startup, you can see the "info" screen with the res pop up a few times. All the tearing and blackout are what actually happened (not encoding error). The lack of focus in some areas is my fault.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3wXQkbc1JGg

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6Mc2mj--xn0

thanks for taking the time to do this. great work.

I don't have a lot of post here, but I've been following this whole thread heavily (along with the LaserVue). I'm in need of a 65-67" and one of these will be my new set.

turls,

On the first link, what is connected to the TV, which port is used, and what signal are you sending? (What? XBox, video game?) (Port: Component 1?) (Sending: 1080p ?)

Same question on the second link?

Doe you have a regular Blu Ray player? If so, what port, and what signal, and does it have the same problem as above?

EDIT: I had a sentence in the wrong place, its corrected.

Maybe I wasn't clear. Its an Xbox 360, no HDMI option, component only, connected to Component 1, and those videos are when the device is set at 1080p. One video is just the dashboard, the other is the opening sequence of Viva Pinata Party Animals. AFAIK this game supports 1080p.

I don't have any PS3 or BluRay player. The only other 1080p source I have is a HTPC, which has an nVidia card connected to through DVI-HDMI to HDMI port 3, set up for a PC connection. I've watched upconverted DVDs and Netflix WatchNow video and have not been able to generate anything goofy yet.

Trying a different set of cables probably isn't going to be an option after all, because this is all one piece that is proprietary Xbox 360.

I think Samsung just needs to make it work. I have in the past been able to get it to do the black screen on the menus as well, but I also have never seen the level of tearing on that video until they added the Aerosmith GH blade. I think the black is causing it fits. I tried changing the settings on the TV and nothing made any difference. Going 1080i works like a charm.

I'm not real sure this is really the same thing others are experiencing. I know the videos are a little rough, these are my first YouTube uploads.

I have not been able to get "black screen" or power cycle issues (or "tearing") on my 1080p HTPC source. I think I only had the actual power cycle issue once, in fact it never came back on so it was a power down issue.

My next step will be to try different cables on the 360.

On the video of the Viva Pinata Party Animals startup, you can see the "info" screen with the res pop up a few times. All the tearing and blackout are what actually happened (not encoding error). The lack of focus in some areas is my fault.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3wXQkbc1JGg

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6Mc2mj--xn0


Nice work.
61A750 connected at HDMI port 1 via hdmi1.3 to Onkyo 705. DISH222 receiver connected to Onkyo via HDMI1.3. After viewing DISH HD source at 1080i for 4hr15min, I experienced the first "Black Screen". In the following 35 minutes, I experienced 6 more black screens. The black screen events looked just like Turls' Viva Pinata hits.
I do not think that the TV powered down. I never received any audible or visual cues that power to the TV was interrupted. Perhaps we should use a different term to avoid confusion.
The DISH 222 is garbage, but still, my events looked just like Turls"
I have switched to the 61A750 HDMI port2 and will subject it to more "dynamic" Masters coverage today.
Viva Pinata Party Animals? Nice.

Yes, with the "dynamic" mode setting, contrast is pumped up and blacks are crushed. The only reason why I can think this mode exists is for the tv to jump at someone on a showroomAgain I haven't really calibrated my set yet so I can't say for sure. But if in fact Dynamic Contrast adjusts the iris (based on the image's content) I don't believe by nature it "crushes blacks" It may seem that way by simply going through the various Dynamic Contrast settings.

However you would need to calibrate all of the other settings each time you changed the Dynamic Contrast setting to obtain proper black and white levels. It takes more work but this is the case on all of the front projectors I have used in and should be the same here.

Now if the set can't be adjusted accordingly it goes back to my earlier comment that it must be breaking the rules. :) If you use the test patterns I linked to one image displays 0 IRE to 100 IRE by tens which would be the perfect image for adjusting black level.

If after adjusting Brightness for each Dynamic Contrast setting and you still can't see 10 IRE (or 20 IRE as some displays simply can't display 10 IRE using this image) then it would be crushing blacks. Has anyone done such calibrating yet? If so what were the results.

thanks for taking the time to do this. great work.

I don't have a lot of post here, but I've been following this whole thread heavily (along with the LaserVue). I'm in need of a 65-67" and one of these will be my new set.

Thansk turls, that makes more sense to me. I am not a game player, so have no experience in that area.

I am still look to those that may have just a regular box Blu-Ray via HDMI that would have the same problem, and if they do or do not, is the box puttin out 1080i or 1080p.

Again I haven't really calibrated my set yet so I can't say for sure. But if in fact Dynamic Contrast adjusts the iris (based on the image's content) I don't believe by nature it "crushes blacks" It may seem that way by simply going through the various Dynamic Contrast settings.

However you would need to calibrate all of the other settings each time you changed the Dynamic Contrast setting to obtain proper black and white levels. It takes more work but this is the case on all of the front projectors I have used in and should be the same here.

Now if the set can't be adjusted accordingly it goes back to my earlier comment that it must be breaking the rules. :) If you use the test patterns I linked to one image displays 0 IRE to 100 IRE by tens which would be the perfect image for adjusting black level.

If after adjusting Brightness for each Dynamic Contrast setting and you still can't see 10 IRE (or 20 IRE as some displays simply can't display 10 IRE using this image) then it would be crushing blacks. Has anyone done such calibrating yet? If so what were the results.


I believe the previous poster was not referring to "dynamic contrast", he was referring to the "dynamic" picture setting (you know like "normal", "movie", "dynamic"). I was just confirming his belief on that. I agree with you, the "dynamic contrast" feature is definitely something different that I have not messed around with too much yet.

Wondering if the LED in the HL-T6187s is teh same as the new hl61a750. I believe that the marketing stuff says the newer set's LED will last longer - I am just wondering if it is actually the same part with different marketing jargon. They are both made by Phlatlight.... CUrious. Saw no difference between the hl-t6187 and the hl61A750, did not know that one was a new model, bought the 6187 and am happy with it.

I believe the previous poster was not referring to "dynamic contrast", he was referring to the "dynamic" picture setting (you know like "normal", "movie", "dynamic"). I was just confirming his belief on that. I agree with you, the "dynamic contrast" feature is definitely something different that I have not messed around with too much yet.I'm sorry if I was confusing the two... and I agree the Dynamic mode (using its defaults) is worthless. I believe each mode simply stores a value of all of the settings which then can be adjusted. It's just one of several million possibilities. :)

I do not think that the TV powered down. I never received any audible or visual cues that power to the TV was interrupted. Perhaps we should use a different term to avoid confusion.

I've experienced both "power down" and "black screen". I have not experience "power cycle". I think those are the 3 things that people are discussing here, all different.

Viva Pinata Party Animals? Nice.

My wife and son love Viva Pinata. I like to watch it more than play it. The party games in this newer one are stupid fun.

I understand you have the XBox set to 1080p but what resolution is the source material? If it's not 1080p remember the XBox has to scale the image before it's sent to the set and its scaling may cause some issues. To verify it's not the source material or XBox itself have you tried viewing the same content on another 1080p display?

According to gamespot the game only supports up to 1080i...
http://www.gamespot.com/ds/strategy/vivapinata/tech_info.html

I would think the system blades are 1080p, otherwise when you switch resolutions you wouldn't have a true test when they make you confirm the resolution change. And I'm not sure I trust Gamespot's resolution claim, the back of the box says 1080p. I've had it happen on other games too, but I haven't played anything too hard core lately. I've got a ton of games, is there a good 1080p game to try? Is Gears of War 1080p? I know Halo 3 cheats. Other potentially high end graphical games I have are Lost Planet, maybe some arcade games, not sure what else since Gamespot just nuked my game list.

Sorry, I don't have another 1080p display with component inputs lying around and don't know anybody with one, most people I know still have tube TVs.

I would think the system blades are 1080p, otherwise when you switch resolutions you wouldn't have a true test when they make you confirm the resolution change. And I'm not sure I trust Gamespot's resolution claim, the back of the box says 1080p.I believe I was linking to the first game (not the Party Animal version) so it probably is 1080p. My only point was just because the XBox is outputting 1080p it doesn't mean the source material is 1080p and as such the XBox has to scale the content which can cause artifacts, tearing, and other issues.

One advantage of Blu-ray set to 1080p/24 is that it is simply outputting what's on the disc so if you see an issue it's either in the actual content or the result of the display. The source device is removed from the chain.

Also I don't see any difference (to how the display processes the image) between 480i, 720p, or 1080i being upscaled by the source device and outputted at 1080p. The display shouldn't know the difference... all it receives is an 1080p image. So if the display is doing something "funny" it should be going it to all resolutions scaled to 1080p and native 1080p by the source.

There does seem to be three different issues being reported and it's hard not to get them combined...

1. Power reset - I have had one during a Blu-ray movie set to 1080p/24.
2. Power going off.
3. Screen blanking or other image issues - if the set redisplays the resolution it means it had lost the signal... who's at fault is open to debate.

Perhaps we could use a Poll to see many cases there has been of each?

Perhaps we could use a Poll to see many cases there has been of each?

I'm all for that if Samsung doesn't come through with some kind of statement in the next few days.

Excuse me for the newbie question but I want some reassurance on this. If I get the 61A750 series I will NOT need to get the bulb replacement with a warranty? Is there a bulb in this Television? Thanks for any replys in advance.

OK... my final questions.... any thoughts on Samsung LCD LN52A650 vs LED DLP HL61A750??

I'm leaning towards the DLP and really hoping the reset issues can be fixed via firmware.

I do have more questions if any of you are kind enough to read:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1018236

thanks for the final info... I'll be getting one of these TVs in the next day or so once I get some more info.

TK.

Excuse me for the newbie question but I want some reassurance on this. If I get the 61A750 series I will NOT need to get the bulb replacement with a warranty? Is there a bulb in this Television? Thanks for any replys in advance.

No bulb, it's LED......

Excuse me for the newbie question but I want some reassurance on this. If I get the 61A750 series I will NOT need to get the bulb replacement with a warranty? Is there a bulb in this Television? Thanks for any replys in advance.

no bulbs in this TV, it's LED.

There does seem to be three different issues being reported and it's hard not to get them combined...

1. Power reset - I have had one during a Blu-ray movie set to 1080p/24.
2. Power going off.
3. Screen blanking or other image issues - if the set redisplays the resolution it means it had lost the signal... who's at fault is open to debate.

Perhaps we could use a Poll to see many cases there has been of each?

That's not a bad idea. Perhaps a separate thread as another poster mentioned where we could possibly include full model #, revision (I happen to have Rev 01), and any other set information that may help troubleshoot the issue.

When I refer to the power cycling issue I have been having...

The picture would go blank and simultaneously I could hear the chime the set makes when it is being turned off (coming from the TV - audio output is sent thru a receiver) - just as if I was turning off the TV via the power button. The first LED light from the right of the set (part of the three indicator lights) would blink on and off and the picture would be restored within a few seconds. If I remember correctly, this light, when in a blinking state, indicates the set will turn on in "15 seconds" or so. I don't ever recall hearing the power up chime in any case. This has happened three times w/ Blu-Ray playback (PS3), 1920 x 1080 @ 24Hz.

I assume this is similar to others who are having "power cycling" issues?

turls, do you notice any of the indicator lights blinking when you run your XBox tests?

This stuff is hard to capture in a separate thread/poll. I recommend someone create a google spreadsheet to track these items, as they did over in the 650 LCD thread. Way better way to do it.

The user created a Form for users to fill out that fed the data into spreadsheet so people could see all of the results. The nice thing about the form is you can enforce what data needs to be entered so you can make sure that you get complete, relevant, detailed information. Very easy to do with Google Docs.


See the spreadsheet they used here. (Has links to the results, and the entry form, but I see that the form is not live anymore now that the firmware update has been made. But you can get the idea):
http://spreadsheets.google.com/ccc?key=pgXhXAcYM58emLgDwfab-Cw&hl=en

turls, do you notice any of the indicator lights blinking when you run your XBox tests?

I don't remember seeing any, and I think they would have shown up on the videos if there were any.

I have the chime turned off on mine. Maybe I need to turn it back on, but I'm almost positive this is too quick to be a power cycle.

I'm a little torn on what to do. If it is indeed true the 650 bulb model is brighter and nicer than the 750 led (and don't they use the same power consumption of 240 watts?), I might just get the 61a650. The bulb has to be replaced, what, every 4 years? The bulbs are now about $150 a piece, which is half the cost of what they used to be.

However, ebay and online store vendors for the 61a650 are scarce. Because there are more vendors for the 61a750, I can get that at the cheaper price. I thought the bulb models were supposed to be cheaper.

Made a google spreadsheet if peeps would like to track their problems. Check out the form here:
http://spreadsheets.google.com/viewform?key=piAw8QwjAbJRjO3FVLpz9bw

And view the results here:
http://spreadsheets.google.com/ccc?key=piAw8QwjAbJRjO3FVLpz9bw

Let me know if this is helpful or I missed anything, as I don't even have one of these sets (yet).

Whew, long thread!

A couple of questions for those familiar with the HL61A750 model:

1. I'm looking to replace my 55" Mitsu RP HDTV with at least a 60" HDTV. For the value, is LED DLP my best bet? I also own a 50" Samsung plasma (720p) and the PQ still blows me away. Will I be disappointed going from plasma to DLP? And yes, I know that the cost of a 60" 1080p plasma is astronomical.

2. I own a Canon HV20 HD video camera that can record and playback at 24p. Does the HL61A750 display true 24p?

3. Best Buy currently has this set for $2,299. Any better deals out there currently?

I'm looking to make a purchase this weekend, so any help is greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance!

Let me know if this is helpful or I missed anything, as I don't even have one of these sets (yet).

Perhaps a section for video tearing (like in my YouTube videos). Otherwise, looks fantastic!

EDIT: it won't let me view the results, might want to check the rights on that.

Whew, long thread!

A couple of questions for those familiar with the HL61A750 model:

3. Best Buy currently has this set for $2,299. Any better deals out there currently?

I'm looking to make a purchase this weekend, so any help is greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance!

I believe the CC price is $2199

3. Best Buy currently has this set for $2,299. Any better deals out there currently?

Remember that best buy will price match. hhgregg has it for 2199.

Amen for price matching.
Is this thing really only 71 lbs?

A friend and I easily moved the TV in the box it came in up two flights of stairs. The box has handles in the middle of it, it was very easy and not heavy at all.

I just got my HL50A650 today, and I have a quick question. I am able to display blu-rays on my PS3 in 1080p24 mode, but I was wondering how to get the 120hz mode active. Is it always on, or is there an option in the menu? I thought it was supposed to look more like a video rather than film, and it doesn't appear that way.

3. Best Buy currently has this set for $2,299. Any better deals out there currently?

-------------------------------------------------

Thanks to Patsy and Erock1 among others for cluing me in to Crutchfield's. I called
the 800 number April 2, got the deal of free shipping and stand for 2275 (you have
to ask for that discount), and April 8 the set was delivered to my Miami address. There
are still have several sets in stock.

My HL-R5668W has a great picture, but the A750 pq is simply breathtaking! Only
negative so far is the lack of a built-in TV Guide (set and remote) that my HLR has,
and a second RF input is nice for OTA reception along with analog cable, just in case
of cable problems.

Made a google spreadsheet if peeps would like to track their problems. Check out the form here:
http://spreadsheets.google.com/viewform?key=piAw8QwjAbJRjO3FVLpz9bw

And view the results here:
http://spreadsheets.google.com/ccc?key=piAw8QwjAbJRjO3FVLpz9bw

Let me know if this is helpful or I missed anything, as I don't even have one of these sets (yet).

Unable to view the result spreadsheet. I get the following message:

We're sorry, 10actony does not have permission to access this spreadsheet.

You are signed in as 10actony, but that email address doesn't have permission to access this spreadsheet. (Sign in as a different user)

Find out more about this topic at the Google Docs Help Center.:(

1st post and i'm sorry to say that has to be like this.

i thought i'd give some info what i found out about the shutdown issue...

NOTHING!!

i've been wanting to purchase one of the new lines... just called tech support at samsung and expressed my concern about the shutdown issues i've been reading that a lot are having... person i talked to said that they have NOT heard of ANY issues with the new models. i said that there are a ton of people that are having problems and that they have all reported that they are calling tech support speaking to level 2, etc... "i just spoke with my supervisor and we are unaware of ANY issues with the a650/a750". so i gave her this thread and said that she should look it over with her supervisor because there are a lot of unhappy people right now.

The picture would go blank and simultaneously I could hear the chime the set makes when it is being turned off (coming from the TV - audio output is sent thru a receiver) - just as if I was turning off the TV via the power button. The first LED light from the right of the set (part of the three indicator lights) would blink on and off and the picture would be restored within a few seconds. If I remember correctly, this light, when in a blinking state, indicates the set will turn on in "15 seconds" or so. I don't ever recall hearing the power up chime in any case. This has happened three times w/ Blu-Ray playback (PS3), 1920 x 1080 @ 24Hz.?This is exactly what has happened to me once. I have however only viewed two movies at 1080p/24. With all my other viewing the set has performed like a champ.

Tomorrow will be two weeks with the Samsung 61A750 and we have had no problems. Bought at CC for $2399 and this week received a return from CC for the difference to match the current lower price of $2199. None of the problems discussed on this forum have happened to us. We watch this TV a few hours per night using Charter Cable HD or a Samsung 1080p upscale DVD player which syncs nicely with the TV. The surround sound set up is a Sony receiver and JBL speakers. Everything is connected with HDMI cables from Radio Shack that were on sale. Have not used any games or blu-ray. I have never measured the angle or anything like that but everything looks fine. The picture is set at Movie/Warm 2 - no other adjustments. Likely will never use games but will add a blu-ray when I see one I like at a good price.

We couldn't be more pleased. We also have a Sony Bravia LCD that we watch as well and it is also a great TV, although the Samsung picture seems to be better.

I'm not real sure this is really the same thing others are experiencing. I know the videos are a little rough, these are my first YouTube uploads.

I have not been able to get "black screen" or power cycle issues (or "tearing") on my 1080p HTPC source. I think I only had the actual power cycle issue once, in fact it never came back on so it was a power down issue.

My next step will be to try different cables on the 360.

On the video of the Viva Pinata Party Animals startup, you can see the "info" screen with the res pop up a few times. All the tearing and blackout are what actually happened (not encoding error). The lack of focus in some areas is my fault.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3wXQkbc1JGg

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6Mc2mj--xn0


On the second video showing the tearing, there is some strange artifact right in the middle of the screen. It almost looks like the bubbling seen when film is melting. Is this possibly something that was introduced by your camera or perhaps during youtube's video conversion process or did you see this while you were filming?

1st post and i'm sorry to say that has to be like this.

i thought i'd give some info what i found out about the shutdown issue...

NOTHING!!

i've been wanting to purchase one of the new lines... just called tech support at samsung and expressed my concern about the shutdown issues i've been reading that a lot are having... person i talked to said that they have NOT heard of ANY issues with the new models. i said that there are a ton of people that are having problems and that they have all reported that they are calling tech support speaking to level 2, etc... "i just spoke with my supervisor and we are unaware of ANY issues with the a650/a750". so i gave her this thread and said that she should look it over with her supervisor because there are a lot of unhappy people right now.

Can't say I have been to happy with Samsung customer support as of late. The past three days (Tue - Thur) I was guaranteed or promised a call back the following day by either tech support or ECR. I received zero call backs. Maybe I'm impatient...but I would expect some semblance of customer service from...customer service. I even told the last rep on Thursday "Even if the news is no news, I would like a call tomorrow to at least let me know where the situation stands and that an effort was made." I was promised a call between 11:00 and 11:30 (I assume CST) and never received one. Hmm...but I digress.

I got off the phone with level 2 tech support (again) not too long ago. To make a long story short (he had not heard of an issue at all either) - he consulted with a product specialist for the HL61A750 model. He came back after a moment and said, ok, it appears one or two others (!? - that' s it?) have reported a similar issue, and the specialist has sent the reports over to the engineering department to have a look-see. If a problem is found that is fixable via firmware, we could expect a software update about a week after discovery (he's a product specialist for the LCD line that had similar auto shutdown issues - his given timeline was drawn from that experience).

On the second video showing the tearing, there is some strange artifact right in the middle of the screen. It almost looks like the bubbling seen when film is melting. Is this possibly something that was introduced by your camera or perhaps during youtube's video conversion process or did you see this while you were filming?

I did not see anything artificially added after conversion or by the camera. If you are talking about the tearing on the Aerosmith GH page, it is severe. You really can't see the slight tearing on the other pages unless you look very close, but almost every page (blade) had it.

We know the video card sucks in the 360, so who knows. Just search the Xbox forums for "watercolor".

I'm a little torn on what to do. If it is indeed true the 650 bulb model is brighter and nicer than the 750 led (and don't they use the same power consumption of 240 watts?), I might just get the 61a650. The bulb has to be replaced, what, every 4 years? The bulbs are now about $150 a piece, which is half the cost of what they used to be.

However, ebay and online store vendors for the 61a650 are scarce. Because there are more vendors for the 61a750, I can get that at the cheaper price. I thought the bulb models were supposed to be cheaper.

I was in exactly the same place. Everytime I looked at both sets I couldnt convince myself the picture was better on the LED. Add to that, the reviews from last years LED on Ultimateav were pretty bad. They even said Samsung (Bulb) sets usually score the highest in Face off's but the LED was the worst. So I went bulb. I cant knock the LED, its just not as mature as the bulb. It may get there but I need to buy now.

LED set is good though, its really a matter of preference. Im sure after calibration the LED is great, the viewing angle was also really important to me. My TV is caddie cornered so I am not sitting in the center. Plus I play guitar hero standing up :) and the led really loses its luster standing.

It's not the tearing. It's a very active smudge or bubble like artifact and I could only see it against a white background in the center of the screen and only on the second video.

Look at the black text against the white background on the screen during the video. You should see it easily. It may very well be something behind you reflecting off the screen.

Ok after all my rantings about contrast ratio's here is an honest comparision of the 650 vs 750 series.

I have spent a week comparing these sets. I am trying to replace a HLS5087W that has the side shadow. I bought a HLT6176 that was garbage due to the ultra slim cabinet. The picture on both of these sets was great, they just had issues.

My first impression of the 750 was not that great, at first at least. I am used to bright sets. The 750 rings in with a brightness rating of 450 CD over M sq. That isnt bad but is no where near what the bulb sets put out. So basically, dont expect the LED to be close to the brightness of a bulb set. The colors were good if not great. The new viewing modes are staggering as are the tuning options. I like that you can now adjust dynamic contrast in Movie mode. I don't like that i only have xv support in movie mode but it using it makes the picture look a lot less washed out. Viewing angles remain bad, If this is an issue with you than look at the bulb set.

My impressions of the bulb set are similar to the LED except I felt the 650 was sharper. The LED (most likely due to brightness) seemed a little more muddy than the 650. I am not saying it has a muddy picture, I am saying the 650 was sharper. Here's why, the 6 series has a brightness of 650 CD which matches that of many LCD's out there. Many of you might say the brightness on the LED is more than enough and you would be right If you are sitting centered to the set. THe bulb has a much more forgiving view. I estimate the LED starts to degrade 45 degrees of center while the Bulb was more like 70 degrees of center.

Blacks were great on both sets. Obviously you can turn on dynamic contrast and get black but on both sets this "crushed" the blacks. Due to this I choose the bulb model. Viewing angles are a big deal for me so I will live with the bulb. The LED is a fine set, I just preferred the Bulb.

Do you have any experience with Samsung's current (previous) 72 inch set, the HL-T7288W?

Reason I ask is I'm wondering if I should pick up a HL-T7288W now (while I still can), or wait until June/July for the HL72A650 to come out and forget the HL-T7288W.

If you or anyone has any knowledge of how the currently available series 6 sets compare to the HL-T7288W picture quality wise, I'd be very interested in knowing. One thing that worries me is the HL72A650 is going to cost around $1000 less than the HL-T7288W, and I wonder if any of that's due to the HL72A650 being a cheaper quality set.