My HL61A750 was delivered Wednesday and so far I am nothing but happy. Believe it or not I bought it on E-bay for $1997 and shipping was free. Was a bit leary, but nothing could have gone smoother. Took a week to deliver and I have been pleased with the deal and the set. Don't consider myself a big time video-phile, but I like what I see.

Ok so I had Best Buy price match Amazon's $2100 flat for the HL-61A750 and paid for it. Just gotta find a way to pick it up tomorrow.

But now I'm thinking about a 50" Pioneer Kuro plasma for just a hundred or so more.

Why should I get the 61A750 instead of the Kuro?

Anyone try to match the CC price to BB and use the 10% movers coupon that is around? Please do not PM me to find the coupon, learn how to google

Does anyone know about the 120hz feature on the HL50A650? I saw other 120hz tvs displaying blu-rays and they give them a cool video-like look, rather than looking like regular film. Although the blu-rays on my 650 look great, they don't have this cool effect. I noticed that a lot of the posters in this thread have a 750, but I'm sure those sets have similar menus. Is there a way to turn on the 120hz, or is there another reason why I don't see that video effect on blu-rays?

2. I own a Canon HV20 HD video camera that can do true 24p. Does the HL61A750 display true 24p?

I may have answered my own question but need confirmation.
I read that the HL61A750 does not offer 3:2 film correction. Does that mean true 24p will not be displayed on this TV?

i've been wanting to purchase one of the new lines... just called tech support at samsung and expressed my concern about the shutdown issues i've been reading that a lot are having... person i talked to said that they have NOT heard of ANY issues with the new models. i said that there are a ton of people that are having problems and that they have all reported that they are calling tech support speaking to level 2, etc... "i just spoke with my supervisor and we are unaware of ANY issues with the a650/a750". so i gave her this thread and said that she should look it over with her supervisor because there are a lot of unhappy people right now.

I think this is standard policy at Samsung. I had called them only about a month ago because I was thinking about getting a 2007 model. I had expressed concerns about the "halo effect" (which I know was corrected in Jan 2008) however, I was not willing to risk getting an older build that had this defect, etc. Even at that time Samsung INSISTED that they had never heard of this happening to any of their TVs and that no one had ever said this had happened. Several different customer service people told me this. I finally talked to one guy who was not afraid to admit that he knew this problem existed, when it was fixed, etc all that stuff.

I think that, especially if you do not have the TV yet, they will never admit to it having any faults (they do want your money after all). I fear also, that no matter how many calls they get about this, they will still say they have never heard of it or no one else has called. They are afraid of admitting to problems I fear.

Oh, and I really doubt anyone from there would ever take the time to actually come here and read this (or any) thread. From the way they act I think they think anyone saying anything about this TV on the internet is just flat out lying.

I read that the HL61A750 does not offer 3:2 film correction. Does that mean true 24p will not be displayed on this TV?

My understanding is that 3:2 correction is only what tv's that DON'T have 24p use to help with the whole 24 vs 30 fps issue.

If your TV HAS 24p you would not need 3:2 correction.

That's how I understand it anyway.

Also, I'm pretty sure this tv does 24p.

Anyone try to match the CC price to BB and use the 10% movers coupon that is around? Please do not PM me to find the coupon, learn how to google

They generally dont let you price match and use a coupon.

Anyone try to match the CC price to BB and use the 10% movers coupon that is around? Please do not PM me to find the coupon, learn how to google

I just used the Mover's Guide 10% at BB...CC and Amazon were higher at the time, but I was happy to be getting it for under 2100. I also tried to use a triple Reward Zone points coupon...it showed up on my receipt, so that should be nearly an extra $100 in RZ certs.

Does anyone know about the 120hz feature on the HL50A650? I saw other 120hz tvs displaying blu-rays and they give them a cool video-like look, rather than looking like regular film. Although the blu-rays on my 650 look great, they don't have this cool effect. I noticed that a lot of the posters in this thread have a 750, but I'm sure those sets have similar menus. Is there a way to turn on the 120hz, or is there another reason why I don't see that video effect on blu-rays?

Well, the way I understand how the chip works, it is always displaying pixels at 120hz, no matter what. (Could even be faster...don't think I've seen an official spec on the chip's capability.) They use this ability to allow for 60fps 3D display, if you have a compatible (and probably awfully fast) video card in your computer. When displaying a 24fps source, it just displays the same image 5 times. SPECULATION: I'm guessing some TVs artificially interpolate between frames to smooth out the 24fps to 120. Or LCDs are inherently slower transitioning between frames so the in-between images displayed get blurred into the next. *shrug*...don't know for sure.

My understanding is that 3:2 correction is only what tv's that DON'T have 24p use to help with the whole 24 vs 30 fps issue.

If your TV HAS 24p you would not need 3:2 correction.

That's how I understand it anyway.

Also, I'm pretty sure this tv does 24p.

Interesting. Thanks for the reply.

Can anyone confirm the statement in bold? (referring to the 61A750).

Interesting. Thanks for the reply.

Can anyone confirm the statement in bold? (referring to the 61A750).

When playing a BluRay disc in the PS3, my TV shows that it is getting 1080p@24fps....of course, that's what caused my one restart.

Quote:
Originally Posted by vfrjim View Post
Anyone try to match the CC price to BB and use the 10% movers coupon that is around? Please do not PM me to find the coupon, learn how to google
They generally dont let you price match and use a coupon.

Ok, no price talk but oh well. I used the 10% BB coupon at CC so saved $240 off the original $2399. Then, CC lowered the price to $2199 so I had CC match their own price while still having the 10% off. I got my 61a750 for under 2K before taxes. On top of that, they threw in the 2 year extended warranty b/c they were rude to my wife when she went to get the price match. Combine all this with no bowing, geometry or shut off issues, and I might be the happiest 61a750 owner in here...haha! Not rubbing it in, I swear :)

Will say though, the viewing angles are definitely not good at all.....especially up and down...if you are not sitting almost dead center and lever with the TV, the picture degrades fast.......but if you are sitting front and center, the PQ is amazing and I couldn't be happier watching HD TV, Blue ray movies, and playing XBOX and PS3

I am also on the fence on deciding with an LCD of the DLP.

It's not the tearing. It's a very active smudge or bubble like artifact and I could only see it against a white background in the center of the screen and only on the second video.

Look at the black text against the white background on the screen during the video. You should see it easily. It may very well be something behind you reflecting off the screen.

I see what you mean now. I don't know what that is, but you are right it must have been introduced by the camera or the conversion. It was a dark room so there shouldn't have been a reflection.

How are darkchip 3 & 4 different in real life viewing?

It's not the tearing. It's a very active smudge or bubble like artifact and I could only see it against a white background in the center of the screen and only on the second video.

Look at the black text against the white background on the screen during the video. You should see it easily. It may very well be something behind you reflecting off the screen.

This looks like that a xbox 360 camera is hooked up. I believe you can add a bubble distortion to the picture.

I've had a HL61A750 for about a week & I'm having a hard time getting used to the silk screen effect. Is it just me or does this set seem to have an obscene amount of SSE? It actually seems to make everything grainy. I'm using a Panasonic BD-30 and everything I watch just seems to have a texture over it. I sit about 10 ft from the set. Just wondering if many other are seeing it too or if I'm just sensitive too it. Do you think I'll get used to it? The thing that really bugs me is that my Dad has a Sony KDS-50A2000 & I've never noticed any SSE on that.

Perhaps a section for video tearing (like in my YouTube videos). Otherwise, looks fantastic!

EDIT: it won't let me view the results, might want to check the rights on that.

Sorry, forgot to publish the results. View them here:
http://spreadsheets.google.com/pub?key=piAw8QwjAbJRjO3FVLpz9bw

I've had a HL61A750 for about a week & I'm having a hard time getting used to the silk screen effect. Is it just me or does this set seem to have an obscene amount of SSE? It actually seems to make everything grainy. I'm using a Panasonic BD-30 and everything I watch just seems to have a texture over it. I sit about 10 ft from the set. Just wondering if many other are seeing it too or if I'm just sensitive too it. Do you think I'll get used to it? The thing that really bugs me is that my Dad has a Sony KDS-50A2000 & I've never noticed any SSE on that.

I have a 6187s (last years model) and I was able to reduce SSE by calibrating the set. In movie mode with the brightness and contrast adjusted the effect is very minimal now. In dynamic mode with OTB settings the SSE is crazy, especially since I watch a lot of hockey.

Background:
I originally had a HL-T5687SAX which had several issues with it. Mainly a blue hue across the top of the screen in dark scenes when the room was dark. Two service calls, 2 months and several phone calls later they agreed to swap out the TV. They were originally going to replace the TV with a HL56A650 but I insisted on an LED TV and they upgraded me to the HL61A750 :D

First Impressions:
I've had the TV for two days and already had the TV power cylce. It was just running off the standard Comcast HD reciever and rebooted while watching the Lord of Rings in HD (1080i @60Hz). Call to Samsung tomorrow to let them know about the problem.

Picture looks pretty good. Like I said, I've only had it for 2 days so I haven't gone through everything in terms of settings. The remote looks like an upgrade over the 07 models. The PIP feature is pretty cool. I have hooked it up over the air and it comes in good.

Geometry issues aren't bad. The side has some tilt but it's not too bad. No big smiley face here. I'll post up more findings as I go through the set. Looking forward to new firmware so I can get it professionally calibrated.

I just used the Mover's Guide 10% at BB...CC and Amazon were higher at the time, but I was happy to be getting it for under 2100. I also tried to use a triple Reward Zone points coupon...it showed up on my receipt, so that should be nearly an extra $100 in RZ certs.



Well, the way I understand how the chip works, it is always displaying pixels at 120hz, no matter what. (Could even be faster...don't think I've seen an official spec on the chip's capability.) They use this ability to allow for 60fps 3D display, if you have a compatible (and probably awfully fast) video card in your computer. When displaying a 24fps source, it just displays the same image 5 times. SPECULATION: I'm guessing some TVs artificially interpolate between frames to smooth out the 24fps to 120. Or LCDs are inherently slower transitioning between frames so the in-between images displayed get blurred into the next. *shrug*...don't know for sure.

Thanks for the reply. If you look at some of the 120hz lcd's in Best Buy for example, the image looks extremely life like. It's like a video image. I am wondering if there is option in certain blu-ray players to output a 120hz image. Maybe the ps3 I'm using with my 650 doesn't have that option. Right now I have it set to display at 24fps, and I thought the tv would convert that to 120hz. Do you know of an option like this in certain players?

Ok so I had Best Buy price match Amazon's $2100 flat for the HL-61A750 and paid for it. Just gotta find a way to pick it up tomorrow.

But now I'm thinking about a 50" Pioneer Kuro plasma for just a hundred or so more.

Why should I get the 61A750 instead of the Kuro?

Just my opinion. Setting aside the huge difference in screen size - go with the Kuro. The other thing to consider would be how far you plan on sitting from the TV.

Just my opinion. Setting aside the huge difference in screen size - go with the Kuro. The other thing to consider would be how far you plan on sitting from the TV.

Also think about the light environment in your room, whether the Kuro will show a lot of distracting reflections.

At my place, got to have a non-reflecting screen.

So I'm guessing these still can't do real 120hz video for content? Don't see it listed in the specs. Only 24p and 60hz are listed.

EDIT: Someone in this thread seems to be really confident they are since they point out the PDF file which states it has a "120hz CinemaPure Color Engine" but I think that just means it has two subsequent 60hz images to make the 3D images. Just like the 2007 models have.

I haven't seen a single person mention the soap opera effect or video looking really fast which makes me even more suspect.

So I'm guessing these still can't do real 120hz video for content? Don't see it listed in the specs. Only 24p and 60hz are listed.

Define "Real".

There's no "Real" 120Hz source out there, they just multiply 24x5, 30x4, or 60(?)x2. That's the beauty of "120Hz," it works with any framerate source.

Apparently, some companies use an interpolation algorithm to add intermediary pixels, others just play multiples of the same frame. I would prefer the simpler method, too much messing around with the original is just begging for trouble, not to mention the increased complexity of the coding, the whole point of which is to eliminate complex schemes such as 3:2 pulldown.

But neither is "Real" 120Hz. I don't think they make too many cameras that fast.

Someone correct me if I'm wrong, I'm no expert.

I think what the other poster is trying to say is that regardless of the tech. a TV uses to achieve the 120hz framerate, certain tv's don't get that "video" effect. It might have to do something with anti-judder technology or something else; I'm not sure. Anyways, my HL50A650 has 120hz listed, but it does not have the "video-look," rather than film-look, for blu-rays. That's why I was asking if there was an option for the my set or my PS3 that turns this effect on. Apparently 120hz by itself doesn't do it.

Define "Real".

There's no "Real" 120Hz source out there, they just multiply 24x5, 30x4, or 60(?)x2. That's the beauty of "120Hz," it works with any framerate source.

Apparently, some companies use an interpolation algorithm to add intermediary pixels, others just play multiples of the same frame. I would prefer the simpler method, too much messing around with the original is just begging for trouble, not to mention the increased complexity of the coding, the whole point of which is to eliminate complex schemes such as 3:2 pulldown.

But neither is "Real" 120Hz. I don't think they make too many cameras that fast.

Someone correct me if I'm wrong, I'm no expert.

What I meant by real was a set that really does 120hz and can be easily spotted, like an LCD I saw in Fry's, or this set which no one has commented on how fast the action is. Only claims that it does but no actual eye witnesses.

The effect you are talking about is only peripherally related to the fact that sets advertise 120Hz video processing. The LCD's you are talking about are also using additional video processing to give that artificial video look. It's not a by product of it being 120Hz, but rather this other video processing that gives it that look. And, while certainly eye catching in a store, I think you would find (at least I do) that after a while of watching the weirdness and artifacts, you might prefer the content displayed naturally.

As stated above, 120Hz simply give this set the ability to display the content according to the source material framerate, without having to do any processing (like 3:2 pulldown) that can introduce video artifact, or "judder", or the so called "TBE" or triple ball effect. So, by having 120Hz video processing, this DLP can show you the source material exactly how it was meant to be seen, 24Hz or fps for Blu Rays and file, 30 or 60 for video, etc.

Today I spent some time calibrating my HL61A750. I used the AVSHD test patterns via my PS3 which are really ideal. Mostly I use three images...

1. Black levels starting at 0 IRE with 2 IRE steps upwards.
2. White levels starting at 255 IRE with 2 IRE steps downwards.
3. An image that combines number one and two (fantastic test image).

I picked Standard for Picture Mode although I think each mode is simply preset values for all of the other settings. Meaning the image would look the same if you set each setting to the same value regardless of which Picture Mode you selected.

I started with the premise that setting Dynamic Contrast to Maximum would provide the best pop (3D look). I also set LED control to minimum to obtain the best blacks.

Not knowing exactly what Black Adjust does I turned it off and without spending several hours (not at this time) I didn't want to adjust the Gamma setting so I left it at zero. However once I came up with Contrast and Brightness settings I tried the various Gamma settings and they would require you adjust both Contrast and Brightness but not to a large degree.

I gave the third test pattern the lion of usage as it reflects what the set can actually do with mixed content (both bright and dark) versus either all bright or dark images. My viewing environment had a fair amount of ambient light but there were no lights on in the room and the blinds were closed.

These are settings I ended up with...

85 - Contrast
63 - Brightness (with normal content 60 or so adds some depth)
0 - Sharpness (removed ringing without defocussing the image)
35 - Color (purely my personal taste)
Tint - 50/50

Off - Black Adjust
High - Dynamic Contrast
Min - Led Control
0 - Gamma
Off - Edge Enhancement
Normal - Color Tone

After the calibrating I spent some time viewing Crank on Blu-ray (my test viewing disc) and everything looked great. The black level appears a little higher than my Optoma HD80 projector however the projector doesn't display the best shadow details and I tend to set black level a little dark.

Then I spent a little time watching the Masters and again everything looked great. Shadow details appear much better than when I started with the Standard's default Contrast and Brightness settings.

There are literal thousands of settings and it's hard to say how valuable these are however they appear to provide an image with a lot of punch but not overly so. I'd say about halfway between what you traditional see as Movie and TV settings. It's life-like with just enough extra pop to say it looks better than being there. :)

UPDATE: I entered the same settings into the Standard and Movie Picture modes and they appear to give identical results. So I'm pretty sure they are just presets. However I did notice when you change Picture Modes it appears to set Black Adjust on High regardless of its setting. To get back to the Off setting (even though it states it's Off) I have to cycle through the settings back to Off.

Thanks for the reply. If you look at some of the 120hz lcd's in Best Buy for example, the image looks extremely life like. It's like a video image. I am wondering if there is option in certain blu-ray players to output a 120hz image. Maybe the ps3 I'm using with my 650 doesn't have that option. Right now I have it set to display at 24fps, and I thought the tv would convert that to 120hz. Do you know of an option like this in certain players?


You are referring to AMP (Auto Motion Plus) from Samsung and I believe Motion Flow from Sony on their LCDs. This technology combines with 120Hz, to insert calculated frames. The technology tries to guess what frames would look like in between the real frames. This results in very smooth and lifelike motion, when it works correctly (check out the Samsung and Sony threads in the LCD forums). There is nothing you can do on a Blu Ray or any DVD player to achieve this look. I hope this is helpful.

How are darkchip 3 & 4 different in real life viewing?

Nobody can answer that, not in RPTV viewing anyway. There are no DC4 RPTV's to our knowledge unless one of the 08 sets turns out to be.

Today I spent some time calibrating my HL61A750. I used the AVSHD test patterns via my PS3 which are really ideal. Mostly I use three images...

1. Black levels starting at 0 IRE with 2 IRE steps upwards.
2. White levels starting at 255 IRE with 2 IRE steps downwards.
3. An image that combines number one and two (fantastic test image).

I picked Standard for Picture Mode although I think each mode is simply preset values for all of the other settings. Meaning the image would look the same if you set each setting to the same value regardless of which Picture Mode you selected.

I started with the premise that setting Dynamic Contrast to Maximum would provide the best pop (3D look). I also set LED control to minimum to obtain the best blacks.

Not knowing exactly what Black Adjust does I turned it off and without spending several hours (not at this time) I didn't want to adjust the Gamma setting so I left it at zero. However once I came up with Contrast and Brightness settings I tried the various Gamma settings and they would require you adjust both Contrast and Brightness but not to a large degree.

I gave the third test pattern the lion of usage as it reflects what the set can actually do with mixed content (both bright and dark) versus either all bright or dark images. My viewing environment had a fair amount of ambient light but there were no lights on in the room and the blinds were closed.

These are settings I ended up with...

85 - Contrast
63 - Brightness
0 - Sharpness (removed ringing without defocussing the image)
35 - Color (purely my personal taste)
Tint - 50/50

Off - Black Adjust
High - Dynamic Contrast
Min - Led Control
0 - Gamma
Off - Edge Enhancement

After the calibrating I spent some time viewing Crank on Blu-ray (my test viewing disc) and everything looked great. The black level appears a little higher than my Optoma HD80 projector however the projector doesn't display the best shadow details and I tend to set black level a little dark.

Then I spent a little time watching the Masters and again everything looked great. Shadow details appear much better than when I started with the Standard's default Contrast and Brightness settings.

There are literal thousands of settings and it's hard to say how valuable these are however they appear to provide an image with a lot of punch but not overly so. I'd say about halfway between what you traditional see as Movie and TV settings. It's life-like with just enough extra pop to say it looks better than being there. :)

I VERY much appreciate you telling us of your calibration, and would love to know more of your settings after some more tweaking/calibrating. I do have a couple questions. You say you use "normal" for the picture mode, am I to understand that you continued using the "cool2" color settings? (this is what normal selects, ironically not "normal" for color setting). Also, I definitely agree that Dynamic Contrast gives the best "pop" to the image, but I am more concerned about preserving what the filmmakers intend to be the image. Do you think there is a big difference in settings for the most impressive pic vs the most ACCURATE pic? (I am not saying your settings are inaccurate, I am just wondering your belief on this).

Thanks very much for your time, any further settings are greatly appreciated :-)

I do have a couple questions. You say you use "normal" for the picture mode, am I to understand that you continued using the "cool2" color settings? (this is what normal selects, ironically not "normal" for color setting). Also, I definitely agree that Dynamic Contrast gives the best "pop" to the image, but I am more concerned about preserving what the filmmakers intend to be the image. Do you think there is a big difference in settings for the most impressive pic vs the most ACCURATE pic? (I am not saying your settings are inaccurate, I am just wondering your belief on this).I'm using Normal for Color Tone since all of the other settings say they alter the image so I try to avoid them. I won't mess around with adjusting colors without a sensor as other wise you are simply blindly guessing at best.

Regarding the filmmakers intent remember the Samsung's Movie preset is just someone's take trying to present a film like look. Typically a darker and muted image with a softer look.

Whether one wants an accurate image or rather one to their personal taste I don't think they is a correct answer. I tend to set contrast, brightness, sharpness, and color accurately and then make minor adjustments based on the display and my personal likes and dislikes.

As I mentioned before my Optoma HD80 projector isn't great at displaying shadow details so I tend to crush blacks a little with it. Doing this adds a lot of pop. If I raise black level to help with the shadow details the image becomes a little washed out. So I personally lean towards accurate unless there is good reason to stray.

I'm such a geek! Brand new HL61A750, and I'm watching test patterns.:o

Anyway, here's a quick note after my first round of calibrating with HCFR and a Spyder2, using a feed to HDMI2 at 1080p60 from a Toshiba XA2 running the AVS Beta1 HD DVD. They led me to the following settings:
Mode: Movie
Contrast: 100 (no white crush)
Brightness:36 (no black crush)
Sharpness: 0
Color: 52 (easy to adjust using color bars with "Blue Mode" ON)
Tint: G52/R48 (also using color bars with "Blue Mode" ON)
Black Adjust: Off
Dynamic Contrast: Off
LED Control: Medium
Gamma: 2 (yielded 1.08 -- not happy with these results yet)
White Balance: -10 (helped lower color temp)
Flesh Tone: 0
Edge Enhancement: Off
Color: Warm2
Size: Just Scan
Digital NR: Auto
Blue Mode: Off
Color Gamut: Normal

HCFR reports 3818:1 CR, and color temp hovering around 7200K.
This set is plenty bright for me @ 118cd/m^2 (my wife keeps saying "this TV's so bright").
Gamut is ok, though there's too much green.
I had to replicate the settings over to HDMI1 for my Dish622.
I haven't climbed into the service menu yet, but expect results will improve further from here.

Bottom line, I'm delighted with the PQ so far. It's much brighter than my ailing HL-P4674 was, much bigger:), and nearly as good for viewing angle. I sit 7-8 feet away, with three seats directly in front, plus one more off to either side. The picture from the side seats looks a bit less bright and a bit less uniform, but not bad.

More details when I have some, but I'm off to watch some actual TV.

You are referring to AMP (Auto Motion Plus) from Samsung and I believe Motion Flow from Sony on their LCDs. This technology combines with 120Hz, to insert calculated frames. The technology tries to guess what frames would look like in between the real frames. This results in very smooth and lifelike motion, when it works correctly (check out the Samsung and Sony threads in the LCD forums). There is nothing you can do on a Blu Ray or any DVD player to achieve this look. I hope this is helpful.

That's what I suspected...I'm a little surprised Samsung hasn't thrown that into the DLP series, then. I kind of think I would prefer 1:1 (well 5:1, I guess) frames at 24fps, as that's how it was filmed and would be displayed in theaters.

I got the A750 today and am completely and totally in love with it.
First thing I did was configure the Blu-Ray player (PS3) for 1080p, super white, etc. and customized the contrast, brightness, turned off sharpness, etc. on the TV and popped in the Dave Matthews and Tim Reynolds show from Radio City Music Hall. Unbelievable picture quality. And for those saying "it doesn't seem very bright in-store", my wife complained that it was "too bright". In her defense, I did have the lights all dimmed to about 10% in the home theater. Anyway, I couldn't be happier with my purchase. I'll post pictures once the TV stand gets delivered on Wednesday.

Again, couldn't be happier and IMO the PQ looks just as good, if not slightly better than my 42" Sammy plaz and completely pummels my 2005 Mitsu 55" RP HDTV

That's what I suspected...I'm a little surprised Samsung hasn't thrown that into the DLP series, then. I kind of think I would prefer 1:1 (well 5:1, I guess) frames at 24fps, as that's how it was filmed and would be displayed in theaters.

DLP doesn't need to generate fake frames like LCD, it's MUCH, and I mean MUCH faster and better at displaying motion. No fakery needed.

Speaking of, I was playing around with the 750 today in Fry's, that had a Samsung BR/HD-DVD of Transformers playing. I switched the player so it was playing 24 fps, and I couldn't tell any difference than when it was playing 60 fps. Both looked DAMN good.

Of course I didn't have any hard core testing video or anything, just casually watching the movie I could tell no difference.

I know one thing, this TV just looks incredible with a High-def DVD going into it.

For those interested, a video showing a bit more extreme example of the "screen blanking" issue similar to turls' post earlier, with some minor tearing. I originally thought the XBox was giving me fits of the power cycling (like the PS3 / Blu-Ray), but this is obviously not the case.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dTktulta-Qk

Timeline of key events:
0:12 - first screen blank
1:20 - screen tearing (bottom)
2:21 - second screen blank (five in quick succession)
2:38 - more screen tearing (bottom)
2:46 - third screen blank (two in succession)

Don't know if I have the patience (or time ;) ) to capture a Blu-Ray power cycle, but we'll see.

I'll pull a complete 180 here and say I still really, really, like the set...the PQ is much, much, better than my old RPTV HDTV. Just hope the power cycling / screen blanking gets fixed soon.

One thing I just noticed is when you change Picture Modes it appears Black Adjust gets set to High regardless of the Mode's settings.

I have Black Adjust set to Off for both Movie and Standard Modes and I can see all of the black bars fine. When I switch modes I lose the two darkest bars until I go into Black Adjust and cycle back to the Off setting.

Anyway, here's a quick note after my first round of calibrating with HCFR and a Spyder2, using a feed to HDMI2 at 1080p60 from a Toshiba XA2 running the AVS Beta1 HD DVD. They led me to the following settings:
Mode: Movie
Contrast: 100 (no white crush)
Which pattern did you use to set Contrast? If I used Basic Settings (all light image) 100 worked but the moment I used Misc Patterns (which has both light and dark content) there was quite a bit of crush. I found the same thing (black crush) with Brightness being set anywhere below 63.

I'm such a geek! Brand new HL61A750, and I'm watching test patterns.:o

Anyway, here's a quick note after my first round of calibrating with HCFR and a Spyder2, using a feed to HDMI2 at 1080p60 from a Toshiba XA2 running the AVS Beta1 HD DVD. They led me to the following settings:
Mode: Movie
Contrast: 100 (no white crush)
Brightness:36 (no black crush)
Sharpness: 0
Color: 52 (easy to adjust using color bars with "Blue Mode" ON)
Tint: G52/R48 (also using color bars with "Blue Mode" ON)
Black Adjust: Off
Dynamic Contrast: Off
LED Control: Medium
Gamma: 2 (yielded 1.08 -- not happy with these results yet)
White Balance: -10 (helped lower color temp)
Flesh Tone: 0
Edge Enhancement: Off
Color: Warm2
Size: Just Scan
Digital NR: Auto
Blue Mode: Off
Color Gamut: Normal

HCFR reports 3818:1 CR, and color temp hovering around 7200K.
This set is plenty bright for me @ 118cd/m^2 (my wife keeps saying "this TV's so bright").
Gamut is ok, though there's too much green.
I had to replicate the settings over to HDMI1 for my Dish622.
I haven't climbed into the service menu yet, but expect results will improve further from here.

Bottom line, I'm delighted with the PQ so far. It's much brighter than my ailing HL-P4674 was, much bigger:), and nearly as good for viewing angle. I sit 7-8 feet away, with three seats directly in front, plus one more off to either side. The picture from the side seats looks a bit less bright and a bit less uniform, but not bad.

More details when I have some, but I'm off to watch some actual TV.


Sorry, what is HCFR please?

I, for one, really dislike the "video look"/"soap opera effect" that the new LCDs have. People always say it's to give it a more "life like" appearance but I think it looks incredibly un-natural. I hope that this does not become the norm. I'd never be able to watch even one movie like this, much less every single thing I watch. I'm really glad this TV doesn't do that.

Trying a different set of cables probably isn't going to be an option after all, because this is all one piece that is proprietary Xbox 360.

I think Samsung just needs to make it work. I have in the past been able to get it to do the black screen on the menus as well, but I also have never seen the level of tearing on that video until they added the Aerosmith GH blade. I think the black is causing it fits. I tried changing the settings on the TV and nothing made any difference. Going 1080i works like a charm.

Have you tried using a 360 VGA cable?

Have you tried using a 360 VGA cable?

I was wondering about this too, since this is how I am going to be connecting my XBOX 360 to this TV. I don't have the TV yet (next week hopefully) so I can't comment on this myself. :o

After two weeks with no problems, we were watching an On-Demand movie over Charter Cable. The movie was not HD and the signal was not 1080p. About 15 minutes into the movie the TV powered off/on. TV had been on only about an hour when this ocurred. Only happened once. I will call Samsung service and see what the Samsung plan is to correct this issue. I bought at CC, but have not yet purchased an extended warranty.

I, for one, really dislike the "video look"/"soap opera effect" that the new LCDs have. People always say it's go give it a more "life like" appearance but I think it looks incredibly un-natural. I hope that this does not become the norm. I'd never be able to watch even one movie like this, much less every single thing I watch. I'm really glad this TV doesn't do that.

Its an OPTION that can be turned on and off. Its not like that all the time. It has nothing to do whatsoever with the 120hz refresh rate. If I had a buck for every time I've heard a misconception on the 120hz LCDs, I could buy a new 67" 750.

thanks!

Its an OPTION that can be turned on and off. Its not like that all the time. It has nothing to do whatsoever with the 120hz refresh rate. If I had a buck for every time I've heard a misconception on the 120hz LCDs, I could buy a new 67" 750.

I'm sorry. Did I ever say that you couldn't turn this off or that it was related to 120Hz? I don't believe I did. Oh that's right, it's because I didn't. Nor did I imply it. I only said that I didn't like it and I hope it didn't become the norm! If I had a DIME for every time someone assumed or inferred something from something someone else said, I could buy a whole digital projection multi-screen cinema!

Nobody can answer that, not in RPTV viewing anyway. There are no DC4 RPTV's to our knowledge unless one of the 08 sets turns out to be.

Thanks!

I'm sorry. Did I ever say that you couldn't turn this off or that it was related to 120Hz? I don't believe I did. Oh that's right, it's because I didn't. Nor did I imply it. I only said that I didn't like it and I hope it didn't become the norm! If I had a DIME for every time someone assumed or inferred something from something someone else said, I could buy a whole digital projection multi-screen cinema!

Okay, whatever. What you inferred was that since the tv is 120hz, that it is going to have that 'look' to it, which is incorrect. Did you or did you not say this....?
"I think it looks incredibly un-natural. I hope that this does not become the norm. I'd never be able to watch even one movie like this, much less every single thing I watch. I'm really glad this TV doesn't do that."

That in itself is an inference that you believe the tv will look like that all the time.

Okay, whatever. What you inferred was that since the tv is 120hz, that it is going to have that 'look' to it, which is incorrect. Did you or did you not say this....?
"I think it looks incredibly un-natural. I hope that this does not become the norm. I'd never be able to watch even one movie like this, much less every single thing I watch. I'm really glad this TV doesn't do that."

That in itself is an inference that you believe the tv will look like that all the time.

How can I infer that it's because the tv is 120Hz when I don't even say anything about 120 Hz? I did say what you quoted but no where in there did I say that the tv will look like that all the time. I said that i hope it does not become the NORM. After I said that, I said that about watching every single thing in that way. Because if it became the norm, I would have to watch everything like that, wouldn't I? Don't you have anything better to do than stir up trouble on a forum?

For everyone else's sake on here that's trying to have a discussion about TVs I will no longer respond to anything else you try to argue about with me on this. Have fun assuming and telling people what they said even though what you say they said is nowhere to be found.

about what percentage of people are having these issues?... are we talking nearly every owner of the newer LED DLPs?... or are we getting scewed (sp?) results due to this being the AVS forum?....

it seems to be too many of us here are having problems and I would assume that even more people out there are having issues who don't post on AVS and such... I just find it odd that Samsung hasn't at least said there's a problem and we're working on it.


How long did it take Samsung to admit to the LCD problems and fix those??

...no where in there did I say that the tv will look like that all the time. ...

Sorry but I read your post exactly the same as r1dude57. I think you're being too touchy about his response. We all misspeak once in a while, like Hillary Clinton.

does anyone have any info. on when this will be available in Canada (and where?)

does anyone have any info. on when this will be available in Canada (and where?)
I had asked that same question a while ago but no response. Also have emailed Samsung with nothing as well....Quite an amazing thread that has kept me reading up on all the things to look for in my next purchase. i still think this TV is the way to go considering all the pros and cons. I just hope that this cycle power up and down will be resolved by the time it shows up here.

Which pattern did you use to set Contrast?
The third one -- all whites. I find it easier to use than the second one with mixed blacks & whites. But I'll go back & try your suggestion.

Sorry, what is HCFR please?

It's calibration software that works with an assortment of hardware colorimeters.
Read more at http://www.homecinema-fr.com/colorimetre/index_en.php or on the AVS display-calibration threads like this one (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=983943) or this one (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=786966).

650A on sale at CC with 3 yr. interest free.......
looks like a great deal....any comments?
I am oh so ready to buy..........

The third one -- all whites. I find it easier to use than the second one with mixed blacks & whites. But I'll go back & try your suggestion.Displays have an easier time showing all dark or light images so in most cases Contrast can be set higher and Brightness lower with them. The true test is with mixed content as this is what will be displayed most of the time.

Using an all light image I could set Contrast up to 98 (at 100 I lost a bar). With an all dark image I could set Brightness down to 49. However when I used the Misc Pattern (Beta 2 version I believe) both whites and blacks were being crushed. So I keep adjusting both a little at a time until neither was getting crushed. Which ended up with 85 for Contrast and 63 for Brightness.

In viewing actual content setting Brightness to 63 gives the image a little too much of a washed out look for my tastes so I have been slowly lowering it a few numbers to somewhere around 60. I was using the NASCAR race last night as it had lots of shadow detail being a night race. I could see I was beginning to crush blacks but I still preferred the added depth. :)

JD44,

Good video capture of some of the issues!!!

I have a question/comment. In the Guitar Hero video you posted with the multiple screen blanks within just a few minutes (wow... that sux!), did you have the video AND sound piped to the TV only?

What I would find interesting is if you had some means to pipe the video to the TV and the audio to some independent/external source. I would find it interesting to observe if the TV screen goes blank but you can *hear* the band rock on.

Not sure what to say about the screen tearing though. :confused:

For those interested, a video showing a bit more extreme example of the "screen blanking" issue similar to turls' post earlier, with some minor tearing. I originally thought the XBox was giving me fits of the power cycling (like the PS3 / Blu-Ray), but this is obviously not the case.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dTktulta-Qk

Timeline of key events:
0:12 - first screen blank
1:20 - screen tearing (bottom)
2:21 - second screen blank (five in quick succession)
2:38 - more screen tearing (bottom)
2:46 - third screen blank (two in succession)

Don't know if I have the patience (or time ;) ) to capture a Blu-Ray power cycle, but we'll see.

I'll pull a complete 180 here and say I still really, really, like the set...the PQ is much, much, better than my old RPTV HDTV. Just hope the power cycling / screen blanking gets fixed soon.

650A on sale at CC with 3 yr. interest free.......
looks like a great deal....any comments?
I am oh so ready to buy..........

Thats what I did. I went to a different CC yesterday just to compare one more time and I like the 650 picture better hands down. The power cycle issues on the LED dont help either but hopefully they will fix that.

After two weeks with no problems, we were watching an On-Demand movie over Charter Cable. The movie was not HD and the signal was not 1080p. About 15 minutes into the movie the TV powered off/on. TV had been on only about an hour when this ocurred. Only happened once. I will call Samsung service and see what the Samsung plan is to correct this issue. I bought at CC, but have not yet purchased an extended warranty.

I contacted Samsung customer service this morning. The rep thought it was a "fluke" attributable to a power surge (unlikely since it is connected to power surge protector) or a brief interruption in the cable signal. I asked about others with similar problems, she said most complaints (did not specify Model 61A750) were powering off and not coming back on immediately. She said if it continued to let them know and they would send out a service tech.

Powering off/on has only ocurred one time.

If you state regardless of anything else the set shouldn't turn itself off and back on (specially considering the fact the other equipment didn't shut off) they will often bounce you to level two or three. Unless you get there I doubt your call goes anywhere such as being reported as an actual issue... purely my guess.

I have had only one and a service call is in the works. I figure until they address the issue it needs to be shown it exists. Yesterday I talked to my guy at Best Buy and he stated they would be happy to swap the set for a similar Mits... so it's up to Samsung.

Thats what I did. I went to a different CC yesterday just to compare one more time and I like the 650 picture better hands down. The power cycle issues on the LED dont help either but hopefully they will fix that.

what was CC's deal if it was what is stated on the site as 1,999.99 and for 2,199.99 then thats not a deal at all.... the two hundred dollar difference will show up on your first bulb replacement whenever that happens could be a year could be 5....... also the reset issue happens with the 750 (which happens very rarely and surely will be fixed) but I am sure the 650 has some kind of flaws, they seem to all have em'....

Whew, long thread!

A couple of questions for those familiar with the HL61A750 model:

1. I'm looking to replace my 55" Mitsu RP HDTV with at least a 60" HDTV. For the value, is LED DLP my best bet? I also own a 50" Samsung plasma (720p) and the PQ still blows me away. Will I be disappointed going from plasma to DLP? And yes, I know that the cost of a 60" 1080p plasma is astronomical.

2. I own a Canon HV20 HD video camera that can record and playback at 24p. Does the HL61A750 display true 24p?

3. Best Buy currently has this set for $2,299. Any better deals out there currently?

I'm looking to make a purchase this weekend, so any help is greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance!

I got the HL61A750 at Best Buy last Friday for $1999.99 after I told them that an Ebay store had it for $1977.99. Not quite a match but close enough for me. The picture quality for me is great, I replaced a 5 year old Toshiba 57 inch and I'm very pleased with how crisp and clear the display is. I have had the power cycle at least 3 times. Hoping the come up with a fix for that.

For all you Canadians waiting for this tv, I just got off the phone with Samsung and the guy said that this set should be out in Canada around July. I guess we will have to wait and see.

I've followed this thread, because I am interested in this set. Can anyone recreate the problem? So when a firmware does come out, we can tell it's fixed.

Also, the image tear issue, same thing with that. Is it reproducable?

I'm using Normal for Color Tone since all of the other settings say they alter the image so I try to avoid them. I won't mess around with adjusting colors without a sensor as other wise you are simply blindly guessing at best.

Regarding the filmmakers intent remember the Samsung's Movie preset is just someone's take trying to present a film like look. Typically a darker and muted image with a softer look.

Whether one wants an accurate image or rather one to their personal taste I don't think they is a correct answer. I tend to set contrast, brightness, sharpness, and color accurately and then make minor adjustments based on the display and my personal likes and dislikes.

As I mentioned before my Optoma HD80 projector isn't great at displaying shadow details so I tend to crush blacks a little with it. Doing this adds a lot of pop. If I raise black level to help with the shadow details the image becomes a little washed out. So I personally lean towards accurate unless there is good reason to stray.

Yeah, I know the "movie" mode is just someone's settings... I do use it so that you have access to the xvycc setting (you don't on normal, why do they insist on not giving access to all the settings?) but I change other settings (brightness, etc) based on my findings/a more professional calibrator's settings (such as yourself)

I guess the better way to phrase what I was asking is exactly how you put it... the added depth and black crush VS slightly washed out but shadow detail. I find it hard to decide which one of those I really prefer. I would like to know more about "dynamic contrast" though, everyone always left it off up until you talked about it. I wonder if you could share some of your knowledge/point me in the right direction for knowing more.

I am also very curious on what you find with gamma levels. I wonder if gamma is different based on what input you use and your other settings. With a bluray movie on HDMI1 thru my ps3, I set gamma to +1. This seems to ADD contrast and pop, while also keeping fine details and also has a much LESS washed out look than 0. But then through component 2 (my cable box) I leave gamma at 0 because gamma seems to be more of a linear progression through brighter/more washed out and 0 seems decent.

Once again your knowledge/findings are greatly appreciated

thanks mike.. thats a bit longer than I was hoping to wait especially since I want the 67 inch but maybe that won't be too long after..

I guess I don't really have many options over 60 inches anyhow.. though I saw a panasonic 61 inch at costco today for 1600 and I was tempted as i'm SICK of waiting

thanks again

I got the HL61A750 at Best Buy last Friday for $1999.99 after I told them that an Ebay store had it for $1977.99. Not quite a match but close enough for me. The picture quality for me is great, I replaced a 5 year old Toshiba 57 inch and I'm very pleased with how crisp and clear the display is. I have had the power cycle at least 3 times. Hoping the come up with a fix for that.

Thanks for the reply.
And yeah, BB is pretty good at price matching. I talked them into giving me the HL61A750 for $2,000 flat before tax on Friday.
That's even better than Amazon's $2,199 (free S&H, no tax)

Yeah, I know the "movie" mode is just someone's settings... I do use it so that you have access to the xvycc setting (you don't on normal, why do they insist on not giving access to all the settings?) but I change other settings (brightness, etc) based on my findings/a more professional calibrator's settings (such as yourself)Is there any source material that supports xvYCC? I'm almost positive nothing on Blu-ray or such does. I'm certainly not a professional calibrator or I'd be charging. :)

I guess the better way to phrase what I was asking is exactly how you put it... the added depth and black crush VS slightly washed out but shadow detail. I find it hard to decide which one of those I really prefer.For me I try to obtain an image that feels natural. One I would expect to see if I was viewing the image in real life. Using various test patterns will get you fairly close to this but ultimately your eyes and preferences are more important than setting the display to its best ability. Who knows based on the display it might not come close to being able to display what was actually intended.

I would like to know more about "dynamic contrast" though, everyone always left it off up until you talked about it. I wonder if you could share some of your knowledge/point me in the right direction for knowing more.I haven't really dug into this set since I may be returning it (because of the reset issue) but I think Dynamic Contrast works similar to a dynamic iris. According to Samsung...

"The “Dynamic Contrast” application reproduces optimized contrast by detecting the characteristics and contrast level of input signals."

In most cases the more contrast the better (until you crush either end) so setting the option to High makes sense to me. :) Once set then adjust Contrast and Brightness so you aren't crushing either.

I am also very curious on what you find with gamma levels. I wonder if gamma is different based on what input you use and your other settings. With a bluray movie on HDMI1 thru my ps3, I set gamma to +1. This seems to ADD contrast and pop, while also keeping fine details and also has a much LESS washed out look than 0. But then through component 2 (my cable box) I leave gamma at 0 because gamma seems to be more of a linear progression through brighter/more washed out and 0 seems decent.
Gamma is one tricky bugger! However I think the setting isn't unique per input. The tricky part is you simply can't throw up a test pattern (in most cases) and see which setting works the best. This is because the actual effect of the Gamma setting is only visible after watching a variety of content. Light, dark and all types of mixed images.

As an example last night when I watched the night race I froze the image several times and tried various Gamma settings. With one image one setting would look terrific and with the next image it would look awful. So without extensive testing I simply left it at 0 which more than likely is closer to the desired curve than the others.

One thing to keep in mind is if you simply change the Gamma setting without going back and adjusting Contrast and Brightness you aren't really giving each setting a fair chance.

For all you Canadians waiting for this tv, I just got off the phone with Samsung and the guy said that this set should be out in Canada around July. I guess we will have to wait and see.

Good to hear. Wonder who'se going to sell it? The way the B&M stores are going, we're only going to be able to buy it online.

Some random shots I took last night (HL61A750)

Pirates III (Blu-Ray)
http://img501.imageshack.us/img501/3441/img4150gg0.jpg

Walk Hard trailer (downloaded from PSN store)
http://img357.imageshack.us/img357/2027/img4152sv3.jpg

Dave Matthews and Tim Reynolds: Live from Radio City Music Hall (Blu-Ray)
http://img515.imageshack.us/img515/2743/img4154dw9.jpg

http://img515.imageshack.us/img515/9365/img4158nn0.jpg

MLB 08 The Show (PS3)
http://img501.imageshack.us/img501/57/img4163za1.jpg


For the gamers out there, I'll be playing some Xbox 360 today and will take some shots.

Have you tried using a 360 VGA cable?

It would be an option if I had one to try, but as far as long term use I've heard that the picture is too dark using VGA. Next time I'm at Best Buy I may buy all 3 options (another component, VGA, and Mad Catz HDMI converter) and take back what I don't decide to keep.

FWIW, I've had the 61A750 for a week, watched multiple movies (upconvert/HDMI) and plenty of Cable (HDMI), as well as a few consistent hours of XBOX360 (component), and have not any issues as of yet (KNOCK ON WOOD).

Just thought I'd share a positive to sprinkle in with the issues people are reporting. Believe me, I'm not smug - it took 5 weeks to get my old set (HLP6163W) replaced by BB after 5 light engine replacements (created terrible dark color washouts after initially being a loud color wheel bearing).

JD44,

Good video capture of some of the issues!!!

I have a question/comment. In the Guitar Hero video you posted with the multiple screen blanks within just a few minutes (wow... that sux!), did you have the video AND sound piped to the TV only?

What I would find interesting is if you had some means to pipe the video to the TV and the audio to some independent/external source. I would find it interesting to observe if the TV screen goes blank but you can *hear* the band rock on.



Yes, both video and audio were being sent to the TV (audio via L/R RCA inputs). I would be willing to bet that the audio would continue to play if routed through a receiver or an external device - the XBox is (obviously) unaffected by the screen blanking.

Unfortunately, I have all my cables routed through the TV stand and zip tied for a cleaner look - it would have taken a bit of time to hook up the XBox to the receiver (well, at least more time than I was willing to spend ;)). Maybe some other time if I bring the XBox down again I will give it a go (it's connected to a different TV most of the time).

Interestingly, though, I decided to try and capture an actual power cycle on video today - PS3 Blu/Ray @ 1920 x 1080p, 24 Hz - and of course, I was unsuccessful. Made it through all of 3:10 to Yuma and and hour and a half of Spider-Man 3 (which was the second movie that gave me a power cycle) to no avail. Go figure.

Some random shots I took last night (HL61A750)
I have a HL61A750 but these weren't taken with it... rather via my projector (110 inch image). :)

http://homeaudiovideoadvisor.com/images/CrankHD801.jpg

http://homeaudiovideoadvisor.com/images/BikiniDestintations.jpg

http://homeaudiovideoadvisor.com/images/CurseoftheGoldenFlowerP1.jpg

http://homeaudiovideoadvisor.com/images/HappyFeetScreen3.jpg

http://homeaudiovideoadvisor.com/images/AScannerDarklyScreen13.jpg

We were approved for a replacement for our 4 year old Panasonic LCD RPTV with our extended warranty with Best Buy. After looking at what was available for us at Best buy, we decided we wanted a Samsung HLxxA750 or the HLT6187S. Best Buy was very cool with us since they did not have either TV at the store where we bought the TV, but gave us store credit to pick one up at the next closest store. We picked up an HL61A750 and were very excited to get it home. I was going to calibrate it enough for us to throw in a Blu-ray DVD and watch it with our kids before bedtime.

Things started good, and then as I was calibrating the TV the picture suddenly turned blue and got darker and darker until it shut off. I immediately called Best Buy and will be getting a replacement on Wednesday.

Has anyone else had an issue like this? Hopefully the new TV will work, because until we lost the picture, it looked pretty nice!

I have a HL61A750 but these weren't taken with it... rather via my projector (110 inch image). :)

Wow. That's really impressive! Especially that first shot. What kind of projector is that? I was under the impression that projectors (even HD ones) could not produce the same detail, sharpness, and clarity as TVs. I guess I'm way behind the times as far as projectors go? Awesome!

It would be an option if I had one to try, but as far as long term use I've heard that the picture is too dark using VGA. Next time I'm at Best Buy I may buy all 3 options (another component, VGA, and Mad Catz HDMI converter) and take back what I don't decide to keep.
Well the Mad Catz product is just a Component->HDMI converter so the odds of it doing better than a straight VGA cable are small UNLESS the tv doesn't have proper calibration controls for the VGA input. Speaking of which, many sets don't have all their image controls available for the VGA. Also, black levels over VGA are not the same across all sets- that's often where the "VGA looks too dark" comes from. The problem is not unique to the 360- I've had similar problems with VGA into some sets from a ReplayTV and a Dreamcast.
The 360 does have settings to try to accomodate different black levels:
http://www.dailytech.com/article.aspx?newsid=7216
My friend has an 87SAX and hooks his 360 up via VGA and works perfectly, so I would hope the 2008 LED DLPs would work just as well.

Wow. That's really impressive! Especially that first shot. What kind of projector is that? I was under the impression that projectors (even HD ones) could not produce the same detail, sharpness, and clarity as TVs. I guess I'm way behind the times as far as projectors go? Awesome!

That is a Optoma HD80 front projector. DLP. 1080p. Really nice image. Enormous pain to correctly place. Costs as much as a 61" Samsung LED DLP and a 32" Vizio LCD combined.

That is a Optoma HD80 front projector. DLP. 1080p. Really nice image. Enormous pain to correctly place. Costs as much as a 61" Samsung LED DLP and a 32" Vizio LCD combined.

Interesting...those are the two TVs I have purchased in the past couple months, and that's the projector I've been checking out. But I plan on doing the cinema room up right, so we're holding off on that for a while.

After two weeks the picture on my A750 is starting to have visible pincushion (vertical bowing) distortion. I'm wondering if it is time to return to Circuit City. We have had one instance of the power off/on issue which eventually may be fixable, but not sure about the pincushion bowing. We really like the picture, but do not want to be dealing with issue after issue. Knowing these problems exist, makes it hard to just watch and enjoy. By the way, how do you go about returning such a big item to CC?

The 360 does have settings to try to accomodate different black levels:
http://www.dailytech.com/article.aspx?newsid=7216
My friend has an 87SAX and hooks his 360 up via VGA and works perfectly, so I would hope the 2008 LED DLPs would work just as well.

Thanks for that link, I had forgotten about that.

On the "bad news" front, I had my first issue with 1080i content last night, a Starz HD recording of "Cars" on my DirecTV HD DVR connected to HDMI 1 (the receiver was set to native output). I got what I believe to be the Power Cycle (my first), with a couple of green blinking lights and losing the picture for maybe 5 seconds or so. It was during the initial racing scenes.

So I've been able to produce issues with two colorful pieces of content, a Viva Pinata game and a Pixar movie :confused:

already returned this tv once and now about to send my second one back. does anyone have the a650? just wondering how the viewing angles compare. i am considering going back to the bulb, too many issues for me with the a750

seems like alot of issues with this tv

Thanks for the reply. If you look at some of the 120hz lcd's in Best Buy for example, the image looks extremely life like. It's like a video image. I am wondering if there is option in certain blu-ray players to output a 120hz image. Maybe the ps3 I'm using with my 650 doesn't have that option. Right now I have it set to display at 24fps, and I thought the tv would convert that to 120hz. Do you know of an option like this in certain players?
I had a similar problem with my 6 year old Hitachi 65xwx20b where it would go blank 15 times during 30 minute evening news.Sears/Hitachi tried to make me believe this was a signal strength issue. After about 8-10 combined visits and changing tuner, digital board etc. they could not come up with a solution. Strangely enough this ony happens with digital reception. Analog reception seems to have no problem. I beleive this is a problem with the digital tuner. You might want to check this out.

I was trying to reply to post #1787 by jd44. Somehow it picked up the wrong reference.

Are There Any 650 Bulb Owners Here Who Have Problems With:

(1)power Downs ?
(2)bowing ?

about what percentage of people are having these issues?... are we talking nearly every owner of the newer LED DLPs?... or are we getting scewed (sp?) results due to this being the AVS forum?....

it seems to be too many of us here are having problems and I would assume that even more people out there are having issues who don't post on AVS and such... I just find it odd that Samsung hasn't at least said there's a problem and we're working on it.


How long did it take Samsung to admit to the LCD problems and fix those??

Check out (and post your own results) in the spreadsheets in my sig below. So far, only people with 750 series seem to have problems, and the problem seems to be fairly widespread, but hard to say as to the general distribution with all sets that have been sold. But, if stores start getting a lot of returns, and Samsung gets a lot of calls about this problem, they should eventually do something about it.

Check out (and post your own results) in the spreadsheets in my sig below. So far, only people with 750 series seem to have problems, and the problem seems to be fairly widespread, but hard to say as to the general distribution with all sets that have been sold. But, if stores start getting a lot of returns, and Samsung gets a lot of calls about this problem, they should eventually do something about it.

I haven't put my results on the poll yet because its blocked here at work lol. But I am actually fairly happy with the tv. I do have some slight slanting and bowing, but i don't think its worth taking back or making potentially worse with a tech to mess with it. The PQ and deal I got on it are AWESOME. I would think that these issues are not as bad as we make them sound here. One major thing to keep in mind is that people dont come to message boards to proclaim their love for something. Usually its if they have a problem and want to address it/fix it. Also I don't think the casual user would notice my issues, u have to be pretty anal to see those. BUT the power down issue is a big thing, and there is no real way to tell how widespread it is until samsung issues a statement. I just think it may not be AS widespread as we think, because like I said, i don't think happy people come to forums to talk all that often lol.

Are There Any 650 Bulb Owners Here Who Have Problems With:

(1)power Downs ?
(2)bowing ?

1) No, watched Blu-ray movies on PS3 through HDMI with no issue, along with DirecTV and DVD.
2) Yes, but Minor, as one poster said, I only notice it when I'm looking for it, rather than watching. It also helps to try to press the cabinet a bit to help relieve some of the issues.

1) No, watched Blu-ray movies on PS3 through HDMI with no issue, along with DirecTV and DVD.
2) Yes, but Minor, as one poster said, I only notice it when I'm looking for it, rather than watching. It also helps to try to press the cabinet a bit to help relieve some of the issues.


Thanks for the reply. How big is your TV? I'm actually contemplating on getting the 56" 650 instead of the 61". Bowing will probably be less too because of the smaller screen.

Do you notice the viewing angles, brightness, and color are better on this TV than on the LED 750?

Reading all of these posts are not giving me the warm fuzzy about purchasing this TV. This thread is reminding me of last years 87/89s model thread.

Reading all of these posts are not giving me the warm fuzzy about purchasing this TV. This thread is reminding me of last years 87/89s model thread.

Yep. One would have though Samsung's new line would have the fixes from last year's mistakes. But not the case. It seems there's still issues with the LED. I'm probably just going to go with the 650s.

It's a darn shame Sony is out of the RPTV business. While their TVs don't have an overscan compensation, I feel the quality of their sets surpasses Samsung's by a large margin (I have two Sony RPTVs that don't have bowing or geometry issues).

seems like alot of issues with this tv

Again, to put a positive prospective on the 61a750 I have watched two regular DVD's and one Blue Ray movie (No Country For Old Men...by the way, what is up with that ending!!!!!!!) via PS3 with no issues using hdmi 1.3. Have also played around 15 hours of 3 different PS3 games with no issues....and about 2 hours of XBOX 360 with no issues....The picture is great and I love it so knock on wood! But there are people out here with no problems just so you know....

I am a big fan of the X-Box and PS3 so posts really interest me when I hear people are having no issues with these systems on this TV. Call of Duty 4 junkie! On another note my Hatichi RP tv also turns off when I have my x-box attached to it but it's not a regular thing. So from what I am reading about this model powering down seems like the TV does not know it has a siginal to it and it powers itself off due to inactivity. Kind of like a laptop powering itself off due to inactivity. I am sure this is a feature that can be turned off via firmware.

I am a big fan of the X-Box and PS3 so posts really interest me when I hear people are having no issues with these systems on this TV. Call of Duty 4 junkie! On another note my Hatichi RP tv also turns off when I have my x-box attached to it but it's not a regular thing. So from what I am reading about this model powering down seems like the TV does not know it has a siginal to it and it powers itself off due to inactivity. Kind of like a laptop powering itself off due to inactivity. I am sure this is a feature that can be turned off via firmware.

Join the club. Big time gamer here (Xbox 360 and PS3)
LOVING the picture quality of both on the 61A750...

... BUT, I had 2 power cycles last night while playing MLB 08 The Show on the PS3 (HDMI). Not a huge deal since I can just pause the game and wait the few seconds it took for the TV to power itself back on, but it would be a big P.I.T.A. if I was playing online. I'm calling Samsung today and if I'm not happy with their response, I may have to exchange the set at Best Buy. I really, REALLY like this TV though and I hope there ends up being a firmware update to fix this particular issue.

P.S. - where in MD?

I was contemplating the the 61" 750 but with the issues I see here I am thinking about the 650 instead. While the LED may be nice I really don't see myself having this TV for more than a few years as I will then buy something new, so the life of the bulb doesn't bother me.

I plan on playing my Xbox 360 and PS3 on it, as well as watch Blu-ray movies on it. Would someone that has dealt with or seen the 650 vs. 750 sets determine if the 650 offers a better overall picture? As I noted, having to eventually replace a bulb is a non-factor for me.

Thanks for the reply. How big is your TV? I'm actually contemplating on getting the 56" 650 instead of the 61". Bowing will probably be less too because of the smaller screen.

Do you notice the viewing angles, brightness, and color are better on this TV than on the LED 750?

50", just fits the cabinet where I had an old HLN43. HUGE difference. Don't know about the TV vs the 750, but I find the viewing angles to be great (have a wide room with a seat that is wide to the side and it looks good). Brightness is great too. Does well in my bright room.

I didn't even look at the 750s because 50" was as big as I could fit (literally about .5-1" of space on each of the sides).

What's annoying is that the 61" 750 retails for $2400 according to Samsung's site. Yet the 61" 650 retails for $2100 according to Samsung's site and BOTH TVs are about the same price when looking for etailers on the net. I would have thought the 650 would be about $1700 or so to keep that price difference between the 650 and 750.

Well I originally went with the 650 on the CC site until I saw the b u y . com price which is absolutely crazy. I know I will have to deal with Samsung for any issues but at that price I have to take a shot.

50", just fits the cabinet where I had an old HLN43. HUGE difference. Don't know about the TV vs the 750, but I find the viewing angles to be great (have a wide room with a seat that is wide to the side and it looks good). Brightness is great too. Does well in my bright room.

I didn't even look at the 750s because 50" was as big as I could fit (literally about .5-1" of space on each of the sides).


Between the A650 and the HLN series, is there a difference in viewing angles? I'm sure there's more brightness, especially if your bulb is getting old in the HLN, but I'm curious about other improvements as well.

(I have an HLN 56 incher.)

Thanks :)

Well I originally went with the 650 on the CC site until I saw the b u y . com price which is absolutely crazy. I know I will have to deal with Samsung for any issues but at that price I have to take a shot.

Yea I saw that too, but is it new or used/refurbished? I didn't call to confirm (maybe Samsung will have a fix for the powerdown issue) but they have the same TV also on their site for $2K?? Listed twice?

Yea I saw that too, but is it new or used/refurbished? I didn't call to confirm (maybe Samsung will have a fix for the powerdown issue) but they have the same TV also on their site for $2K?? Listed twice?

I don't see anything about it being refurb. I don't see how it could be, nobody really has it in stock yet so its a little new to be refurb. The other price is from 6th ave If you click on the link for that.

Between the A650 and the HLN series, is there a difference in viewing angles? I'm sure there's more brightness, especially if your bulb is getting old in the HLN, but I'm curious about other improvements as well.

(I have an HLN 56 incher.)

Thanks :)

I'm on my second bulb in the HLN, so the brightness is mostly due to the set. The contrast is much improved and the colors really pop. The entire PQ is that much better. There seems to be a slight imporvement in viewing angle, but I'm not sure exactly what angle I'm at right now with my widest spot.

I LOVE the picture on this vs the HLN (granted that TV is 4.5 years old now). Even my wife, who's comment before purcahsing it was "I don't care, the pictures are the same to me on all the TVs", commented on how good this looks.

I'd like to discuss presets and picture quality.

I noticed with my 61A750 that if you use the Dynamic or Standard presets, you don't have access to things like Color Temperature and other settings. You can only access most of the settings if using the Cinema preset.

But the Cinema preset seems to form a filter look over the picture. And even with some adjusting, the picture doesn't look as crisp as the other modes.

So what are you guys using?

Thanks, NDRugby

I'm looking at the 67" LED sets and the 73" Mits Lazervue, but I may just fall back on a big 650 if these if issues persist or the lasers are overpriced.

My biggest gripe with the bulb sets is the replacement cost--not that big a deal- but also the noise, heat, power consumption, and warm-up time.

But those aren't such huge deals, if the PQ is that much better, and/or the price is much lower.

Check out (and post your own results) in the spreadsheets in my sig below. So far, only people with 750 series seem to have problems, and the problem seems to be fairly widespread, but hard to say as to the general distribution with all sets that have been sold. But, if stores start getting a lot of returns, and Samsung gets a lot of calls about this problem, they should eventually do something about it.


Thanks for taking the time to collect the data Mike. I had my first power down issue last night while watching Meet the Robinsons so I added my info.

I'd like to discuss presets and picture quality.

I noticed with my 61A750 that if you use the Dynamic or Standard presets, you don't have access to things like Color Temperature and other settings. You can only access most of the settings if using the Cinema preset.

But the Cinema preset seems to form a filter look over the picture. And even with some adjusting, the picture doesn't look as crisp as the other modes.

So what are you guys using?

Try turning "on" DNie (or what ever the name is assuming the A750 has it), once you do the additional setting in standard mode will light up. You will be able to make major improvements in PQ that way, and yes you can reduce the black crushing. You will can access to black level adj, gamma, and maybe a few more.

I replaced my HLN5065W this weekend with the HL61A750. BIG improvement! The contrast is much much better, 300 is actually watchable now.

I have a slight pincushion in the lower right corner. It is the same amount as I had with my HLN. When I spoke with Samsung regarding the HLN they stated this was a DLP "flaw" and is not correctable.

I have not had any power down issues. I have watched quit a bit of HD@1080i and played a few hours of XBOX360.

I paid $1874 at HH Gregg in Indianapolis!

I keep hearing people say bulb is no big deal--it seems as if people aren't really reading the whole thread (not blaming them except this is a 2k purchase so I read as much as I can before I spend that money)--you've also got the color wheel which is a moving part that can go bad and cause issues if it is only slightly "off". I just don't understand the angle thing. I play Guitar Hero/Rock Band standing up also and it isn't an issue. Its not any more of an issue than it was with a bulb-based HLN. I can be 70-80 degrees off center and it looks fine to me for a RPTV.

I replaced my HLN5065W this weekend with the HL61A750. BIG improvement! The contrast is much much better, 300 is actually watchable now.

I have a slight pincushion in the lower right corner. It is the same amount as I had with my HLN. When I spoke with Samsung regarding the HLN they stated this was a DLP "flaw" and is not correctable.

I have not had any power down issues. I have watched quit a bit of HD@1080i and played a few hours of XBOX360.

I paid $1874 at HH Gregg in Indianapolis!

How did you get it for 1874? Pretty darn good!

How did you get it for 1874? Pretty darn good!

Negotiating... they are commissioned there.

I only purchased the TV and nothing extra, no service plans!

seems like alot of issues with this tv

Yep. I was really looking forward to buying the 61A750 after reading the pre intro hype. Probably still a pretty good tv for size vs money but think I'll wait awhile longer. Maybe the new 67" coming out in June won't have the same issues...maybe.

you guys keep trying to talk me out of buying this TV. I just can't see it happening

This is a very interesting thread. I'm looking to get a big 'ol TV since I moved to my new place and my 32" LCD seems tiny at 13 ft away. I went and looked at the 750 today, seemed like a great picture. BUT, until I see a few posts about Samsung addressing these power issues I can't see dropping 2K on this TV. BUT, tough waiting to buy, I also hope these issues are addressed with the 67", which is about the size I really want. Thanks for the posts, I will keep lurking and waiting for the posts about a firmware fix.
Cheers

The local service shop Samsung contacted to take a look at my set didn't get back to me so I called today and spoke to the service manager. He agreed it probably would be silly to replace parts for the heck of it so he is calling Samsung to see if they have any information the power on/off/on issue... he is supposed to get back to me in a day or two.

The local service shop Samsung contacted to take a look at my set didn't get back to me so I called today and spoke to the service manager. He agreed it probably would be silly to replace parts for the heck of it so he is calling Samsung to see if they have any information the power on/off/on issue... he is supposed to get back to me in a day or two.
This was exactly the point I made to the second level CSR rep that I spoke with. So, I declined to have them send a tech out for now.

To anyone considering purchasing one of these Samsungs, that lives anywhere near the Lehigh Valley in PA.
I bought a very nice stand for my 6187S that I no longer have, so I will sell it for 50% of cost.
Still on BB website if you want to see it....PM me if interested.

This was exactly the point I made to the second level CSR rep that I spoke with. So, I declined to have them send a tech out for now.I agree it's of no value to have a tech out although without creating a service call I'm not sure if your issue is actually realized. I'm guessing an outstanding service call (unresolved) carries more weight than a phone call.

I like the set however within three weeks it's going to be resolved or sent back.

how about returning the tv back to the store. Thats what I did and recieved another one. Unfortunately, it still had the power down reset issue, but it didnt have the black flakes!

I agree it's of no value to have a tech out although without creating a service call I'm not sure if your issue is actually realized. I'm guessing an outstanding service call (unresolved) carries more weight than a phone call.

I like the set however within three weeks it's going to be resolved or sent back.

Likewise...I've turned down service calls three times now.

Do others have have an open transaction # with Samsung support via their "Executive Customer Relations" dept (or another dept)? Somebody (hopefully) is taking a look at these open issues...

how about returning the tv back to the store. Thats what I did and recieved another one. Unfortunately, it still had the power down reset issue, but it didnt have the black flakes!The black flecks can be removed via the access port on each side of the set.

Can someone who's entered the service menu on the HL61A750 please confirm the code to enter it?

I was told to power off the TV, then hit "mute, 1, 4, 8, 2, power"... I've tried this around 7 times at Best Buy and can not get the TV to turn on in the service menu... is the code wrong or am I doing something wrong?


Thanks!!

Can someone who's entered the service menu on the HL61A750 please confirm the code to enter it?

I was told to power off the TV, then hit "mute, 1, 4, 8, 2, power"... I've tried this around 7 times at Best Buy and can not get the TV to turn on in the service menu... is the code wrong or am I doing something wrong?


Thanks!!

It is Mute, 1, 8, 2, Power (at least that works on the 650).

Thanks... I'll try that on the 750... can anyone confirm that's the correct code for the 750?

Thanks... I'll try that on the 750... can anyone confirm that's the correct code for the 750?

That's the correct code. I believe I may have been the one to tell you 1 4 8 2, I dunno why it just seemed right when I was typing. It's one of those things that I've done for years (every samsung I have had back to a 27 inch CRT has used that code) and doesn't fully come to me until I have a remote in my hand doing it lol. Sorry about giving the wrong info

That's the correct code. I believe I may have been the one to tell you 1 4 8 2, I dunno why it just seemed right when I was typing. It's one of those things that I've done for years (every samsung I have had back to a 27 inch CRT has used that code) and doesn't fully come to me until I have a remote in my hand doing it lol. Sorry about giving the wrong info


No problem at all... if I wasn't so lazy I could have searched the thread or boards for the code myself, so I only blame me, lol.... I just appreciate the help... good or bad. ;)

Is there any source material that supports xvYCC? I'm almost positive nothing on Blu-ray or such does.

I dunno if there is any source material that actually utilizes it, I just know that both the PS3 and my HD-A35 support the feature. I have heard a few people believe that games might be one of the first things to truly use it.

On a sad note.... I had my first TV powering down event yesterday :-( I guess you guys really are right when you say "don't worry, it'll happen" lol. Mine was not like that youtube video though. It was more like the TV actually turned off and back on within the period of like 4 or 5 seconds. In my opinion, that video looks more like the input being used is giving out; not like the tv is powering down. I did not have any LED lights blinking that I could see (where are these located? the power light? because I have that turned off). It happened once while watching transformers on the HD-A35 hooked into HDMI2. I forget what scene it was but I can give my other settings if need be.

I also had one very weird issue twice yesterday... but I think it is the fault of my HD-A35. When turning everything on, the volume would be LOUD and no amount of turning the volume down on my reciever or switching inputs on my reciever could do anything to this. But when I go to the tv settings and turn the tv speaker ON (I always have it turned off) it would kill the sound. Then I could switch back to having tv speaker OFF (although with it "on" nothing was coming out after killing the sound anyways). I never got up to see if it was the tv speaker and not the reciever speakers making the sound but I think it has to have been. I think this might be a problem with my HD-DVD player as I had like "hdmi direct sound" turned on or something even though I am running HDMI to the tv for video and optical digital out to reciever for audio. It must be like randomly FORCING audio through the HDMI cable. BUT.... if the tv speakers were off, its awfully weird and could be an issue with the tv also.

Hope that made sense to everyone, but as you can see; last night was not a happy movie watching night for me

After two weeks the picture on my A750 is starting to have visible pincushion (vertical bowing) distortion. I'm wondering if it is time to return to Circuit City. We have had one instance of the power off/on issue which eventually may be fixable, but not sure about the pincushion bowing. We really like the picture, but do not want to be dealing with issue after issue. Knowing these problems exist, makes it hard to just watch and enjoy. By the way, how do you go about returning such a big item to CC?

I contacted customer service again as suggested here. They have arranged for the local Southern California service group - Tekniton - to come out and look at our set for both power and hourglass/pinchushion issues. If they can't fix, I will take back to CC whom I contacted and the return seems to be easy enough to do.

The decision for us is whether or not we want to keep the A750 or get another type of set - plasma or LCD - and pay substantially more for a similar size screen and perhaps have another set of problems. Right now, we want to try and make the A750 work for us since the picture is really great and it looks good in our built-in cabinet. However, we need to decide soon because our 30 days to return at CC is up on 4/30.

On a sad note.... I had my first TV powering down event yesterday :-( I guess you guys really are right when you say "don't worry, it'll happen" lol. Mine was not like that youtube video though. It was more like the TV actually turned off and back on within the period of like 4 or 5 seconds. In my opinion, that video looks more like the input being used is giving out; not like the tv is powering down. I did not have any LED lights blinking that I could see (where are these located? the power light? because I have that turned off). It happened once while watching transformers on the HD-A35 hooked into HDMI2. I forget what scene it was but I can give my other settings if need be.

Have you looked at the Google spreadsheet? Please enter your findings in the spreadsheet because I have sent that link to a Samsung executive. We know there are at least 3 seperate issues, they are all asked about in the spreadsheet (there are actually at least 4 related to display input issues, besides geometry and focus). Yes the power down is a different issue. No, it isn't the source on my YouTube video, it is the TV losing sync with the source. Its obvious that tolerances are too tight on this TV for input sources (or some other issue that is TV specific) or else everybody would be having these issues with other display devices also, they aren't. I'm not trying to be too "anal" about it though :rolleyes:

I fail to see why so many posters here that must not be familiar with Samsung's quality control history don't want to believe that these are real issues (I realize you've seen the light, but in a few pages, we'll have another one).

I contacted customer service again as suggested here. They have arranged for the local Southern California service group - Tekniton - to come out and look at our set for both power and hourglass/pinchushion issues. If they can't fix, I will take back to CC whom I contacted and the return seems to be easy enough to do.


They are wasting a lot of people's return windows with suggesting these tech visits. Everything they need to see they can see in YouTube videos. As stated, I've forwarded those links on to someone that should be able to help, we'll see if anything is done soon or not.

I fail to see why so many posters here that must not be familiar with Samsung's quality control history don't want to believe that these are real issues (I realize you've seen the light, but in a few pages, we'll have another one).

Oh trust me, I was sure they were real issues... I just didn't want to have them lol. I will definitely input into the spreadsheet but it will have to wait until I am home from work because it is blocked here. I appreciate all the time and effort people have put into trying to help our cause. I think if anyone has the time, they should have a tech actually come out... even if changing parts is very illogical. This way there would be an unresolved case out there.

Oh trust me, I was sure they were real issues... I just didn't want to have them lol. I will definitely input into the spreadsheet but it will have to wait until I am home from work because it is blocked here. I appreciate all the time and effort people have put into trying to help our cause. I think if anyone has the time, they should have a tech actually come out... even if changing parts is very illogical. This way there would be an unresolved case out there.

Good advice, I would do this except my local servicer insists on even doing the simplest repair in-shop (therefore transporting the TV 45 miles and having it for a week or more). I guess if nothing happens this week I'll at least let them come out and look at it. I'm starting to wonder if this is really the only way to get this on Samsung's radar since we continue to hear reports that the support people even 2nd level and up refuse to acknowledge the issues have been widely reported. As was stated earlier, they should have had a report that came out this past Friday that would have had these issues on the list of common complaints. If anybody calls Samsung, have they changed their tune? And of course, if I hear anything new from my Samsung contact, I will post that here.

I also had one very weird issue twice yesterday... but I think it is the fault of my HD-A35. When turning everything on, the volume would be LOUD and no amount of turning the volume down on my reciever or switching inputs on my reciever could do anything to this. But when I go to the tv settings and turn the tv speaker ON (I always have it turned off) it would kill the sound. Then I could switch back to having tv speaker OFF (although with it "on" nothing was coming out after killing the sound anyways). I never got up to see if it was the tv speaker and not the reciever speakers making the sound but I think it has to have been.I have the speakers turned off on the set however every time I reboot my TiVo the speakers on the set get turned on. If I go into the menu they say they are turned off however I have to toggle them back to on/off before they turn off.

I have a similar issue with Black Adjust every time I change Picture Mode it gets set to High (however the menu still shows whatever setting I'm using). I have to cycle through the various options back to Off before it takes affect.

I verified this by looking at a test pattern and blacks aren't getting crushed. If I switch Picture Modes and then switch right back the blacks were getting crushed. When I recycled the Black Adjust back to Off the crushing is gone.

Sorry, off topic...but I don't see any threads on the 2008 Mitsu's. Does anyone know if there's any discussion on these?

I've been following this thread and I'm not liking what I'm hearing. I was looking to see if the viewing angles would have been improved in the 750 models, but it seems like that's the least of my worries now.

The 736 series has piqued my interest, but I don't believe it's LED.
http://www.amazon.com/Mitsubishi-WD-65736-65-inch-1080p-HDTV/dp/B00166G6EG

Does Mitsu make a DLP LED?

I have a similar issue with Black Adjust every time I change Picture Mode it gets set to High (however the menu still shows whatever setting I'm using). I have to cycle through the various options back to Off before it takes affect.


It sure seems as I'm having trouble keeping settings the same as well. I've noticed numerous times that I have to keep turning edge enhancement off (I haven't been in service menus since I got my 2nd 750 delivered). I know there are some variables there, as it may keep different settings for different types of inputs (for example, its possible a 1080p 360 game would have different settings than a 720p one), but I'm pretty sure there is an issue here--but I haven't tracked it closely enough yet with all the bigger fish to fry.


Does Mitsu make a DLP LED?

No, but they have the laser sets coming out later this year, if you don't mind paying top dollar for 1st gen unproven tech.

I have the speakers turned off on the set however every time I reboot my TiVo the speakers on the set get turned on. If I go into the menu they say they are turned off however I have to toggle them back to on/off before they turn off.

I have a similar issue with Black Adjust every time I change Picture Mode it gets set to High (however the menu still shows whatever setting I'm using). I have to cycle through the various options back to Off before it takes affect.

I verified this by looking at a test pattern and blacks aren't getting crushed. If I switch Picture Modes and then switch right back the blacks were getting crushed. When I recycled the Black Adjust back to Off the crushing is gone.

If this is the case of the tv resetting that setting like that, is it normal for my hd-a35 to be outputting sound through hdmi AND the optical connection? I didn't think any devices would do that.

I will have to check that Black Adjust setting also... Am I understanding correctly that you are saying it continues to say "off" (I believe you leave black adjust off) but is actually behaving as if black adjust was "high"? Then you have to set to something else (mid, low, high, whatever) and then put it back to "off" in order for it to behave correctly again? This happens whenever you switch "picture modes". By that you mean like "normal", "dynamic", or "movie"?

I had something else happen. I believe this only happened on HDMI inputa (both, actually), but when switching picture modes (like I said, the "normal, dynamic, or movie" setting) it put all my values to zero. Contrast, color, brightness, etc. I have to go set each one individually. This happened when I switched from "movie" to "normal" (for trying your settings, ironically lol) and then again when I switched back to "movie" in order to gain access to xvycc (still using your settings btw, I think I am pretty happy with them). This is annoying but at least its something the tv correctly reported back to me (unlike your black level issue, from what I can tell) and not something I plan on doing all the time so I thought nothing of it.

MAN all these issues are getting pretty ridiculous, I have never seen such an important product have such bad quality control. Maybe its not really important to them at all and they really are ditching rptv in general. That will be a sad day because without these problems, the PQ on these are VERY close to equal with the best of plasmas (i.e. kuro, with the rptv in ideal viewing conditions) and MUCH cheaper.

BTW, messing with gamma settings a little more... I am happier with gamma = 0 on HDMI2 (my hd dvd player) but gamma = +1 on HDMI1 (my ps3). This may be because the couple hd dvd movies I have watched have been brighter movies in general, where as the bluray movies have generally been darker movies. Wish I had the same disc to compare in both lol

I keep hearing people say bulb is no big deal--it seems as if people aren't really reading the whole thread (not blaming them except this is a 2k purchase so I read as much as I can before I spend that money)--you've also got the color wheel which is a moving part that can go bad and cause issues if it is only slightly "off". I just don't understand the angle thing. I play Guitar Hero/Rock Band standing up also and it isn't an issue. Its not any more of an issue than it was with a bulb-based HLN. I can be 70-80 degrees off center and it looks fine to me for a RPTV.

While the color wheel may fail it is not the reason to not go bulb. If you buy an EW especially. For example, I had an HLS5087W and had the side shadow issue. This could happen with an LED. I also had a HLT6176 and that ultra slim cab had the mirror mounted on top which caused picture shake (You can actually bang the shelf in any store to reproduce)

Look at all the issues so far with the 750 series, you dont see 650 issues posting that the color wheel went bad. The point? LED is the new thing so it is marketed as such. Does not mean its better although it can be better for you. Im just saying for potential buyers thats all. The price difference between the sets alone pays for a bulb.

While the color wheel may fail it is not the reason to not go bulb. If you buy an EW especially. For example, I had an HLS5087W and had the side shadow issue. This could happen with an LED. I also had a HLT6176 and that ultra slim cab had the mirror mounted on top which caused picture shake (You can actually bang the shelf in any store to reproduce)

Look at all the issues so far with the 750 series, you dont see 650 issues posting that the color wheel went bad. The point? LED is the new thing so it is marketed as such. Does not mean its better although it can be better for you. Im just saying for potential buyers thats all. The price difference between the sets alone pays for a bulb.

I would probably agree with everything here except for 2 things, one of which I notice, the other I was never susceptible to anyways. The LED should basically get rid of any noticable rainbow effects. I have read stuff about last year's model saying that if you were VERY aware of this before, maybe you still notice rainbow effects, but they should basically be eliminated (I never really noticed too much anyways). Also compared to my old DLP (lamp based, but a few years back) I do not notice a hotspot much at all with this LED set. Now maybe lamps have progressed moreso and this is not an issue anymore, but the hotspot was a pain previously and I do not see anything now. This is just something I wanted to bring up.

Also, the color wheel is not something that is going to go out quickly, its something that overtime can get noisier, take longer to start up, eventually break. And the bulb WILL need replaced. In an ideal world where samsung had better quality control the LED set would be hands down the better choice in my opinion. I do not believe these problems all (if any) stem from being LED. I also think that (correct me if I am wrong) the geometry issues are occuring on the bulb models also. But given everything I am seeing now, I would not fault people for going the "tried and true" route of a bulb DLP set.

To a potential buyer, if you want the set to last you a long time... I would go LED and assume that firmware updates will take care of most of what has been said here. Or if you have more patience than me, WAIT. lol. If you think you'll probably get a new tv within a few years that completely replaces this one (I mean you won't even move this to a different room or anything) then maybe the traditional bulb set might be a better option.

I am probably going to buy whatever I choose from Best Buy and get the 4 year service plan. I believe this would cover the first bulb change if I got the 650. I am 99% sure I would replace this set before the warranty ran out as I would get whatever the new tech is at that time.

Assuming all this, does the 650 produce a better picture than the 750? Also, do any of the 650 owners notice any of the issues that plague DLP sets, such as the rainbow effect,hotspot,etc?

I have read a great deal of this thread, though not every page as it is too long. I happen to own the HLN617W set. Mine was 4 years old back in October 2007. I bought the extended warranty because the whole DLP RP technology was still rather new in 2003. I took advantage of the extended warranty about two months before it expired in October 2007 and had the color wheel and bulb replaced. I know that there were those who had various issues with the HLN series of sets. I personally have had none! The color wheel screeched one time for about 30 seconds which prompted me to use my extended warranty as previously mentioned. The HLN617W is a 720p set and still has an excellent picture from HD over cable using component connections. An up-converted, standard DVD through an Oppo DV971H still looks very close to HD using DVI.

My point in all of this is that I am truly sorry to hear that Samsung is still having so many issues with the various DLP sets... whether they are LED or Color Wheel seems to make little difference. I too love the DLP's in general and I hope they do not go the way of the Dodo bird! The price for picture quality cannot be beat by any other technology at this stage of the game.

I would like to think that the makers of the DLP chip (Texas Instruments) would be getting involved in the quality control issues that Samsung, and others, are having in order that DLP is not relegated to projectors only.

Now that I'm looking at the possibility of the 67" LED due out in June, I am truly surprised that after nearly 7 years of DLP rear projection production that Samsung is still allowing so many sets to go out with these problems.

Hopefully they will get these issues resolved very soon, because if they don't... we all will be looking at some different technology for our future purchases.

We may like the fact that DLP is cheaper, but when you lay out several grand for anything, we should expect good quality. I personally will be willing to pay a little more for the technology that works the best OOB. ;)

I have been reading this thread for quite some time. I used its initial pages to decide that the HL61A750 would replace my JVC HD56FN97 which died after 14 months of ownership (LCOS). Best Buy xtended warranty refunded my money and I went for the Samsung. I had the first one for 12 days(delivered 4/1/08). Experienced several reset cycles. Had the new one delivered Saturday morning (04/12/08). Ran it all day and well into the night (probably 14 hours or so). Next day (04/13/08) turned it on in the morning. Watched it most of the day, and at 8:30 or so that night, got my first power reset. Next morning (04/14/08) the tv is now well covered in fine particulate dust (and I keep a clean house, no pets, no kids, vacum at least twice a week--seems it generates quite a bit of static) and I got my second power reset at approx. 2:30 pm. I talked with Samsung tech on this one, they want to send someone out. I was going to let them come out, however last night I noticed that there seems to be several spots on the inside of the screen (dust perhaps?) I am thouroughly disgusted with this model and Samsung for that matter. Their tech support at least mentioned hearing about this issue but had no suggestions as to what it might be. I would caution anyone at this point about buying it. Given all the people here who have had difficulties with the HL61A750 I am confident that this is a serious model issue and it should be avoided. The power resets occured with several different input devices. My PS3 (HDMI 2)running at 24hz watching "Gone Baby Gone" special features (interviews, no major motion or color changes). My dish network (HDMI 1) (1080i "Gone in 60 Seconds"-last 10 minutes of movie). OTA antenna watching "Jeapordy". No rhyme or reason to the power resets. I am at a loss and I think I will be returning this second set and exg'ing for a TH-50PZ85U Panasonic plasma 50". I hope this helps someone in making a decision. Rear projections don't have good luck in this house (BTW plugged all directly into wall (as recommended by Samsung tech on 1st set) not a surge protector).

To anyone considering purchasing one of these Samsungs, that lives anywhere near the Lehigh Valley in PA.
I bought a very nice stand for my 6187S that I no longer have, so I will sell it for 50% of cost.
Still on BB website if you want to see it....PM me if interested.


I'm in Pittsburgh......is that close?

I have the speakers turned off on the set however every time I reboot my TiVo the speakers on the set get turned on. If I go into the menu they say they are turned off however I have to toggle them back to on/off before they turn off.

I have a similar issue with Black Adjust every time I change Picture Mode it gets set to High (however the menu still shows whatever setting I'm using). I have to cycle through the various options back to Off before it takes affect.

I verified this by looking at a test pattern and blacks aren't getting crushed. If I switch Picture Modes and then switch right back the blacks were getting crushed. When I recycled the Black Adjust back to Off the crushing is gone.

This reminds me of something... aha, thanks to search, I found it! I wonder if some of these setting reset issues are caused by the sets being in "shop" mode?

Check this out from the Samsung LNT owners thread, maybe something similar with these sets is going on.
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=893827


****BASIC INFO ON GETTING OUT OF SHOP MODE******************************************************** **************
If you tv is stuck in shop mode here is the way to turn shop mode off. Hit menu on the remote, go to setup, go to plug & play, hit start. Select home. Exit out after selecting home or if you are using OTA, the tv will try to re-find all the channels again and that could take a half hour so just exit after selecting home. Some folks put thier tv in shop mode by accident. You will know your tv is in shop mode if it doesn't remeber your settings and keeps going back to dynamic mode. A way to check this is by setting your tv to Movie mode. Turn the tv off, when you turn the tv back on it should still be on movie mode. If it is back on dynamic mode, follow the instructions above.
************************************************************ *******************************************************

I'm now subscribing to this thread. I'm front projector guy, but my dad just bought the A750 and called me and said that the TV turns off and then on after an hour of watching it. Being the avid AVS'er that I am, I checked out this thread. So count another set in the blackout category. I hope there will be a firmware update so I'll keep my eye on this thread. This is a real pity concerning the potential of this set and technology.

I would probably agree with everything here except for 2 things, one of which I notice, the other I was never susceptible to anyways. The LED should basically get rid of any noticable rainbow effects. I have read stuff about last year's model saying that if you were VERY aware of this before, maybe you still notice rainbow effects, but they should basically be eliminated (I never really noticed too much anyways). Also compared to my old DLP (lamp based, but a few years back) I do not notice a hotspot much at all with this LED set. Now maybe lamps have progressed moreso and this is not an issue anymore, but the hotspot was a pain previously and I do not see anything now. This is just something I wanted to bring up.

Also, the color wheel is not something that is going to go out quickly, its something that overtime can get noisier, take longer to start up, eventually break. And the bulb WILL need replaced. In an ideal world where samsung had better quality control the LED set would be hands down the better choice in my opinion. I do not believe these problems all (if any) stem from being LED. I also think that (correct me if I am wrong) the geometry issues are occuring on the bulb models also. But given everything I am seeing now, I would not fault people for going the "tried and true" route of a bulb DLP set.

To a potential buyer, if you want the set to last you a long time... I would go LED and assume that firmware updates will take care of most of what has been said here. Or if you have more patience than me, WAIT. lol. If you think you'll probably get a new tv within a few years that completely replaces this one (I mean you won't even move this to a different room or anything) then maybe the traditional bulb set might be a better option.


Good points, Im just saying the 50" never had color wheel issues, it was something else that got me. Regarding the bulb, with some EW's they pay for 2-3 bulb replacements so basically the money I save from going bulb nets me enough money for one bulb and add an EW would easily take care of a second. This is over 4 years and I am sure you would agree you need an EW anyway so while unfortunate, its hard to imagine any TV today that wouldn't have issues within 4 years, especially RPTV.

The nail in the coffin for me was picture quality and the bulb to me, 2 years in a row, still smoked the LED. Especially in viewing angles.

I just called Samsung support for the umpteenth time to check on the status of the transaction # I was given.

The rep said the last note entered was "Product Support is aware of the issue and a firmware fix is in development."

I asked her when the note was data entered, and she replied with "April 11th."

Now, my original transaction # merely stated that the set will "power cycle" every so often @ 1080p resolution when watching Blu-Ray movies. I later updated the ticket to indicate that "screen blanking" (as apparent in the YouTube videos, including mine) is also an issue (perhaps related, perhaps not). However, I did this on Saturday, the 12th. I'll see if I can dig up more details later.

I would be interested if others could confirm or deny the report.

I am still amazed by my friends 2 year old 71" sammy that is a dlp bulb model it's crystal clear picture. I may be steering to the 650's for me. I am having a hard time spending my money on something that has know issues that's not being fixed by the manufacture year after year. The one thing I am set on is a Sammy 650 or 750 just trying to see this out a little longer before I pull the trigger.

I will have to check that Black Adjust setting also... Am I understanding correctly that you are saying it continues to say "off" (I believe you leave black adjust off) but is actually behaving as if black adjust was "high"? Then you have to set to something else (mid, low, high, whatever) and then put it back to "off" in order for it to behave correctly again? This happens whenever you switch "picture modes". By that you mean like "normal", "dynamic", or "movie"?Exactly. The set says it's off however the image reflects it being set to High. Cycle back to Off and it's actually off. I think it's hard to spot and I probably wouldn't even have noticed it except for one thing.

I happened to be viewing a black level pattern which looked "perfect" in Standard mode. I switched to Movie mode which I had set up the same way (Black Adjust Off) and noticed blacks were being crushed. So I though the Movie mode was inherently different than Standard. However when I switched back to Standard they were still being crushed and I was totally confused!

Don't remember how I tied the two together (probably from playing around with anything that could change black level) but the moment I cycled Black Adjust back to Off the crushing disappeared. Then I switched back to Movie and the crush was there (remember the set still says it's set of Off) so I cycled back to Off and it was gone.

By the way I'm still letting the Brightness slide now the scale based on actual viewing. I think I'm down to 58... still playing.

I don't see "Setup" when I press Menu on the remote (61A750)

To see the firmware version on Samsung TVs, follow these steps:

Turn on your TV.
Press the Menu button on your remote. The Main menu appears.
Select Setup, and then press Enter. The Setup menu appears.
Use the Down Arrow button to Select Function Help, and then press Enter.
Note: You will probably Down Arrow through several menu screens before reaching Function Help.


Select the word On. On is selected when the background behind the word On is dark.
Press the Info button on your remote, which is usually directly below the Down Arrow button below the Enter button.

http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a218/Jammasterc/Firmware20Version.jpg



The TV displays the firmware version and in some cases the chassis number.

If those that made entries in the 650/750 Owners Issues spreadsheet can enter their TVs firmware, maybe it will help resolve issues.

The one thing I am set on is a Sammy 650 or 750 just trying to see this out a little longer before I pull the trigger.

I'm in the same exact boat.

We just bought the tv (hl-6a750) a few days ago and have had problems with resets and the ps3 also. I called Samsung today and they said they have a firmware update that will be available tomorrow--it was just listed two hours ago on their computers.
I hope this works...
So, call tomorrow and they will e-mail it to you or send it to you in the mail.

I exchanged my A750 twice today. My original had slight bowing 1/4" and slight tilt 1/8". Using XBox over component at 1080p resulted in screen blanking and visual problems. 1080i worked fine. Multiple resets. It also made random electric pop noises.

The 2nd had now noticable bowing and tilt was half an inch from right side leaning down toward the left side at the top and bottom of the screen. Xbox was fine at 1080p, along with 1080i. Didn't have long enough for a reset. It made the pop noises more often. And oddly enough I did initial setup for home and it had all inputs set for dynamic mode. The tilt was to much to handle so I exchanged it.

The third has same tilt and bowing as first tv. Xbox has same problems as first tv. Haven't heard a pop noise yet. Initial setup had all inputs at normal mode. I'm sure the resets will come, but only had it on a hour.

Firmware was from 02/28/08 on all three tv's. I have to say I'm not at all impressed with Samsung. The only reasons I want the tv are LED, size, and of course price. I hope they fix this reset issue or this will be the last Samsung I ever purchase.

I'm sorry but I can't read this entire thread. It's longer than the bible. If anyone would be kind enough to just help me with a few quick questions I'd greatly appreciate it.

Just recently I bought the Samsung HLT6176 Slim DLP. I love the set. The picture is great the sound is ABSOLUTE crap but I really like picture and of course the sleek cab is nice too.

HOWEVER, like many others I experienced some bowing issues so I got a Samsung "authorized" rep to come out and fix it. They ordered a new screen and it DID fix the problem, however the screen had some serious scratch marks so they had to order another one.

The second screen arrived and they came out to install it today, but guess what? The scratch marks were about 1/2 long on both the left side and upper right. I'm almost positive the repair guy added to it with his unprofessional installing.

By the way DON'T EVER USE Electronic Lab (Ft. Lauderdale Florida). They owner is a jerk, rude and refused to deal with issue anymore. He said it'll never be perfect and he doesn't have time to finish the job.

Anyways, I called Samsung because obviously I just bought this set and I still don't have the problem resolved. The bowing is back and the screen had tons of visable scratches. I'm talking the scratches where it shows up BLACK on the screen so it really is noticeable.

So Samsung offered me the new 61A650 that releases later this month.

This is my question (probably dumb) but is it a no-brainer? Do I take the new 08 model?

I think it's bigger than the slim fit which I really liked, but what about the image and sound? I know it doesn't seem like a big deal but it is, I don't want to make a bad decison when I can just get a new screen and hope for the best.

I haven't found any reviews on the new set because they haven't been released nationwide. What are the differences? I see the cabinets are different. I hear the remote is completely different as is the on screen menu.

Do you think the bowing issue is gone for the '08 sets? What about the very loud popping sounds it makes from time to time?

Please reassure me I made the right decision in getting the '08 model. It's just that you hear so many people like the "older" sets so I don't want to shoot myself in the foot on this one.

Thanks in advance. Sorry for the babble and STAY away from Electronic Lab (Ft. Laud/Pompano Beach Florida). The owner Alan is a real a$$.

Just wanted to say (since I'm so excited) that I just got the HL61A750 delivered today! I haven't had time to do anything other than auto-program the channels because I had to head to work. I'll be sure to post any issues or anything else I come across after I actually have time to hook things up to it and test it out. Thanks to this forum for helping out with everything through this whole process of selecting, discussing, buying, and everything that comes afterwards.

On another note, it looks like good news on the power cycle/firmware front. Looks like we'll have a fix soon. I look forward to posts on here saying the new firmware is out and that it corrects the issues!

I fail to see why so many posters here that must not be familiar with Samsung's quality control history don't want to believe that these are real issues (I realize you've seen the light, but in a few pages, we'll have another one).

I'll be the sacrificial anode here. Is Samsung's quality control history good or bad (as compared to Sony, Mitsu, etc)? :confused:

After getting my Best Buy credit line opened, the sales drone goes to ring it up and asks if I want the extended service plan. No, I think I'll be okay...if I do decide on an extended warranty, it won't be with Best Buy.

I got mine from Circuit City, is it possible to buy an extended warranty for the TV somewhere else? Their prices for a warranty which INCLUDES the first year manufacturer warranty is really high......oh, I just bought my TV Friday so it's only been 5 days.....


Whatever you do...don't buy a warranty from Circuit City. They are TERRIBLE! I had a rpt (I paid over $3000 for it at the time) that had a sound card which went out 3 or 4 times and they NEVER fixed it properly. Right after the warranty expired, the card went out again and they basically said "too bad so sad". If I could have found someone to fix it properly in the first place I would have never had to deal with those guys. The tech scratched our hardwood floor with his tools and soldered the card in our house on our living room floor. It was the worst level of service I have ever had. Now my sound card is broken, my floor is scratched, and I am out $100s of dollars for work that was never done.

To anyone considering purchasing one of these Samsungs, that lives anywhere near the Lehigh Valley in PA.
I bought a very nice stand for my 6187S that I no longer have, so I will sell it for 50% of cost.
Still on BB website if you want to see it....PM me if interested.

Hey I live 10-15 mins from the Lehigh Valley in PA. I PMd ya on the stand.

I bought the 5087S about 3 weeks ago from Crutchfield for $1299 with a free stand and shipping. It had the bowing issue on both top left and right corners and when I called about having a replacement sent, they were no longer carrying that model. Since they had nothing other than the 61A750 in stock, they agreed to let me swap my 5087S for it +$400. I still keep the stand and all of the shipping is free. That's $700 off their current price so it felt like a good deal that is, until I read this thread. Now I'm worried I'll get a lemon like almost everyone else here. If that's the case, I'll just keep sending them back to Crutchfield until I get one that is right. It's a pain but I'll always have a TV and it won't cost me a dime. The only other option is to deal with Samsung and/or a service tech but I'd like to avoid that if at all possible.

Can someone please post a photo of their samsung bowing, slanting or showing the pin cushion effect? I am interested to see exactly what it looks like.

has anyone used this test image on their 61A750 and zoomed once?

http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h221/wopino/HLTReflectionTest.jpg

Are you experiencing this?

http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h221/wopino/Picture016.jpg

This is my hlt5687S that i am trying to get upgraded to 61A750 because this is my second replacement set from Samsung that is having problems the first one had problems shown here: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=13630013#post13630013

Can someone please post a photo of their samsung bowing, slanting or showing the pin cushion effect? I am interested to see exactly what it looks like.Each set is like a snow flake... no two are the same. However there are a few images posted earlier in this thread.

I bought my 61A750 April 9th 2008. All was good until 6 days later (today april 15th) when I noticed the TV restart 3 times during a couple of hours of watching HD cable using a brighthouse scientific americian explorer 3250 HD set top box.

This after I took the 6187S model back a week prior to buying the 750 because the 6187S turned off anytime I pushed ANY button on ANY remote - yes ANY remote even non samsung. figure that one out. Oh ya I bought that one at Sears. Beware. Samsung told me my 6187S was toast. Sears said "we'll send a tech out to check it out" when? "in about 3 or 4 weeks." The store is 5 miles away. I bought another set from Sears a few years back. it broke 18 months later. I paid Sears 100 bucks to send a tech out and analyze the problem. He tells me it will cost 900+ to fix. So thinking I have a lemon, I buy the samsung to replace it.
Now I have 2 HDs. Then I find out that the 1st TV has a known bug and the manuafacture is providing a newly designed part and fix for free - $150 to have the part installed.

Samsung = Nice picture but a bunch of crap inside.
Sear electronics = no integrity or customer service

Thank god I still have my 29" RCA that I bought in 1990 - not 1 issue in 18 years and still going strong.
It has a nice picture too but I bet in 18 years from now this piece of junk Samsung will probably be in some land fill buried under a bunch of other samsungs. And Sears will probably be owned by walmart.

I bought my 61A750 April 9th 2008. All was good until 6 days later (today april 15th) when I noticed the TV restart 3 times during a couple of hours of watching HD cable using a brighthouse scientific americian explorer 3250 HD set top box.

This after I took the 6187S model back a week prior to buying the 750 because the 6187S turned off anytime I pushed ANY button on ANY remote - yes ANY remote even non samsung. figure that one out. Oh ya I bought that one at Sears. Beware. Samsung told me my 6187S was toast. Sears said "we'll send a tech out to check it out" when? "in about 3 or 4 weeks." The store is 5 miles away. I bought another set from Sears a few years back. it broke 18 months later. I paid Sears 100 bucks to send a tech out and analyze the problem. He tells me it will cost 900+ to fix. So thinking I have a lemon, I buy the samsung to replace it.
Now I have 2 HDs. Then I find out that the 1st TV has a known bug and the manuafacture is providing a newly designed part and fix for free - $150 to have the part installed.

Samsung = Nice picture but a bunch of crap inside.
Sear electronics = no integrity or customer service

Thank god I still have my 29" RCA that I bought in 1990 - not 1 issue in 18 years and still going strong.
It has a nice picture too but I bet in 18 years from now this piece of junk Samsung will probably be in some land fill buried under a bunch of other samsungs. And Sears will probably be owned by walmart.

Stupid sort of question here.

I recently purchased a 61A750 and I also own a 42" Samsung plasma. I'm pretty satisfied with the PQ of the new 750, but after going from a plasma - the 750's picture looks kind of soft. I want to say slightly washed out. Hard to explain. But the colors just don't pop like the plasma. Two different technologies, I understand. But what settings should I play with to at least try and get the picture to being even close to that of the plaz?

couple more questions, is this years sets using Dark Chip 4 or still using Dark Chip 3? I went thru the thread and skimmed thru all the posts guess i missed this if it has already been covered so i apologize in advance. My next question is on the reset issue that seems like everyone is having, how on earth did they keep the floor model at CES 2008 to not do the reset when it was on constantly??

couple more questions, is this years sets using Dark Chip 4 or still using Dark Chip 3? I went thru the thread and skimmed thru all the posts guess i missed this if it has already been covered so i apologize in advance. My next question is on the reset issue that seems like everyone is having, how on earth did they keep the floor model at CES 2008 to not do the reset when it was on constantly??


Various "Experts" have expressed various "Opinions", but the Dark Chip 4 question has not yet been settled.

Various "Experts" have expressed various "Opinions", but the Dark Chip 4 question has not yet been settled.

so what were the various opinions from these so called experts??

Could anyone tell me how, when I'm viewing my PC on my A750, to get the options for 1:1 pixel mapping or Just Scan etc? I've gone through all the menus and haven't seen these options. I've gotten to Just Scan on other inputs but can't get to get anything other than PC Wide or TV wide in this mode. I do have the input named as PC. Don't know if that makes a difference.

To see the firmware version on Samsung TVs, follow these steps:

http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a218/Jammasterc/Firmware20Version.jpg

The TV displays the firmware version and in some cases the chassis number.

If those that made entries in the 650/750 Owners Issues spreadsheet can enter their TVs firmware, maybe it will help resolve issues.

One problem--these menus are completely different. Those choices don't exist.

I'll be the sacrificial anode here. Is Samsung's quality control history good or bad (as compared to Sony, Mitsu, etc)? :confused:

I think their quality control sucks, but I know RP are harder to make uniformly than plasma, etc. However service after the sale always has been good for me. That's why I came back for more 6 years later ;)

Could anyone tell me how, when I'm viewing my PC on my A750, to get the options for 1:1 pixel mapping or Just Scan etc? I've gone through all the menus and haven't seen these options. I've gotten to Just Scan on other inputs but can't get to get anything other than PC Wide or TV wide in this mode. I do have the input named as PC. Don't know if that makes a difference.

If you followed my instructions in an earlier post, you are good to go. I believe "Wide TV" is the 1:1 pixel mapping. Don't you get the the overscan that would indicate that? If you have an nVidia card, look at the test patterns in the nVidia utilities on the different picture modes and you can see what I mean. . .

so what were the various opinions from these so called experts??

LOL, well so far their opinions have been Darkchip 3 or Darkchip 4. So far no "expert" has claimed Darkchip 2 or Darkchip 5, nor has anyone claimed they use Lightchip7, ChocolateChip3, or PaintChip9, or... you get the idea.

Not settled means not settled.

LOL, well so far their opinions have been Darkchip 3 or Darkchip 4. So far no "expert" has claimed Darkchip 2 or Darkchip 5, nor has anyone claimed they use Lightchip7, ChocolateChip3, or PaintChip9, or... you get the idea.

Not settled means not settled.


I like to call my self an expert... and in my opinion, ChocolateChip3 is the most tasty of the chips... it just sticks to your fingers if you hold it too long. If you can hold out and wait for ChocolateChip4, they do have plans to fix the "dirty finger" problems with a hard colored shell. Also, it's a well known fact that it's the opinion of experts that you avoid PaintChip9... there's just too much lead risk.

One problem--these menus are completely different. Those choices don't exist.

darn sorry, I got those instructions from the A750 FAQS section on the Samsung website; I guess they have not updated their FAQs lately, just recycled the old ones.

so what were the various opinions from these so called experts??

Well, there are really only two possibilities, now, aren't there?

Darkchip4 yes/Darkchip4 no.

:D

Well, there are really only two possibilities, now, aren't there?

Darkchip4 yes/Darkchip4 no.

:D

haha...nice I will keep assuming it is ChocolateChip 3 and i will definitely stay away from PaintChip9

Hmmm, BB has the HL56A650 on sale. I know LED is the more future-proof tech but I am so tempted to get the 650 instead and not worry about the color wheel and bulb since I will probably be getting something new before the 4 year warranty plan runs out.

Has anyone compared the 6187s to the 61A750? A side by side comparison should pretty much settle which chip is being used. Really, if you can't tell by now I am guessing the leap from Darkchip 3 to 4 isn't that impressive.

Stupid sort of question here.

I recently purchased a 61A750 and I also own a 42" Samsung plasma. I'm pretty satisfied with the PQ of the new 750, but after going from a plasma - the 750's picture looks kind of soft. I want to say slightly washed out. Hard to explain. But the colors just don't pop like the plasma. Two different technologies, I understand. But what settings should I play with to at least try and get the picture to being even close to that of the plaz?


I am currently using Charles R's settings on mine:

I use "movie" mode (if only to have access to other features that normal does not give)
color: warm1 (he uses standard, no one has really done a professional color calibration yet)
Bump Dynamic contrast (in the "details" part) to Max
turn off any other kind of enhancements (dnie, edge enhance, black level adjust)
turn LED adjust to min
Contrast 85
brightness 50-70 range depending on room conditions (i go to 53 I think if I am in a DARK room, 63 low lit, 70+ in bright room and maybe even turn LED adjust up also)
color 53 (I prefer my colors to be more vibrant, he prefers lower, its all based on pref)
sharpness 0
tint 53/47 (G/R) (this is what I use, using "warm1" for color)


I think thats about all the settings (its not in front of me)

In my opinion, this rivals PQ of plasmas if viewed in correct conditions (i.e. eye level, head on, dark room)

I called Samsung this morning and the firmware update is out for the reset/power shut off problem with the 750. I am going to download it right now and see if it works-- problem is we don't watch too much tv, so I might not be able to test it out asap. I just want a TV that works when I want to watch it!

I called Samsung this morning and the firmware update is out for the reset/power shut off problem with the 750. I am going to download it right now and see if it works-- problem is we don't watch too much tv, so I might not be able to test it out asap. I just want a TV that works when I want to watch it!

Are you sure they didnt get confused with the LNxxA650 firmware update? I just checked and dont see any firmware updates for the HLxxA750.

link (http://www.samsung.com/us/support/search/supportSearchResultView.do?group=&group_cd=&type=&type_cd=&subtype=&subtype_cd=&model_nm=&dType=D&vType=L&mType=&model_cd=&page=1&report_type=PDF&report_file=SupportNewsAlert.jasper&PARAMVALUE=site_cd&site_cd=us&PARAMVALUE=spp_news_seq&spp_news_seq=380&menu=&prd_ia_cd=&acc_ia_fl=&disp_nm=HL61A750&isEqualsY=Y)

Well, there are really only two possibilities, now, aren't there?

Darkchip4 yes/Darkchip4 no.

:D

Im sure you know what I think : )

Seriously, there is nothing to suggest it is a DC4 and comparing to last years sets it would not be a big jump anyway. In both the Bulb and LED models the picture looks the same however there are a ton of new viewing options.

The biggest change I see is they took the Bulb model out of that stupid ultraslim cab. The LED to me seems exactly the same.

Stupid sort of question here.

I recently purchased a 61A750 and I also own a 42" Samsung plasma. I'm pretty satisfied with the PQ of the new 750, but after going from a plasma - the 750's picture looks kind of soft. I want to say slightly washed out. Hard to explain. But the colors just don't pop like the plasma. Two different technologies, I understand. But what settings should I play with to at least try and get the picture to being even close to that of the plaz?

I agree - sometimes the picture looks great and clear but other times it looks washed out. Like the blacks kind of look, not quite blurry but just not as clear. I have tweaked with all the settings like crazy and just can't get the picture to always look crisp and clear on high def channels. Hopefully someone can post some "expert" settings that might help PQ.

One other thing I noticed is sometimes really white colors look a bit grainy. I can't tell if it's the picture or the so called silk screen effect though.

With all the issues and the fact I still have over two weeks in my 30 day return to CC window, I am really debating whether to check out the panasonic 50pzu plasma......It just seems so small now that I have a 61 inch TV! haha

I think the 61a750 uses 230 watts when on, right?

How about the 56a650 and 61a650 bulb models?

I'm at work and can't download the manuals to find out.

Are you sure they didnt get confused with the LNxxA650 firmware update? I just checked and dont see any firmware updates for the HLxxA750.

link (http://www.samsung.com/us/support/search/supportSearchResultView.do?group=&group_cd=&type=&type_cd=&subtype=&subtype_cd=&model_nm=&dType=D&vType=L&mType=&model_cd=&page=1&report_type=PDF&report_file=SupportNewsAlert.jasper&PARAMVALUE=site_cd&site_cd=us&PARAMVALUE=spp_news_seq&spp_news_seq=380&menu=&prd_ia_cd=&acc_ia_fl=&disp_nm=HL61A750&isEqualsY=Y)

I am sure it is for the hl-61a750--at least that is what the guy said last night and today when I called again. The firmware came out yesterday but you could not get it until today. It is all very secret. You have to call Samsung, let them know the problem and they will send you an e-mail with the firmware for you to download onto a thumbdrive. When you get the e-mail it says the link will expire in a few days. They give you a username and password. I asked if there are any other firmware updates and they said they do not give them out unless your TV is having a specific problem. They probably don't want people to know how many problems these TVs are actually having so they are keeping it on the DL.

Are you sure they didnt get confused with the LNxxA650 firmware update? I just checked and dont see any firmware updates for the HLxxA750.

link (http://www.samsung.com/us/support/search/supportSearchResultView.do?group=&group_cd=&type=&type_cd=&subtype=&subtype_cd=&model_nm=&dType=D&vType=L&mType=&model_cd=&page=1&report_type=PDF&report_file=SupportNewsAlert.jasper&PARAMVALUE=site_cd&site_cd=us&PARAMVALUE=spp_news_seq&spp_news_seq=380&menu=&prd_ia_cd=&acc_ia_fl=&disp_nm=HL61A750&isEqualsY=Y)

I don't see any firmware for the HL61A750 either, but you did manage to get me excited.
Had my first power resets last night. Uggh! Those in addition to many black screen events. I talked with Samsung rep yesterday and he said that he had not heard of the problem and that I needed to have a tech come to my house. Garbage. I asked him to log it as a problem. He thought my TV was a LCD at first. No telling what they are doing to help.

Just got off the phone with Samsung and told them of my black out and power cycling problems. I asked if there was a firmware update and they said it is in work. I asked if there was one that he could email to me and he said there is an update that they have for email, but that it did not address these problems. He said that they knew about the problems one week after delivering the first sets to the retailers. He said that the firmware that addresses the black out and power cycling problems will be done by the end of this month. He said that if it does not appear on the Samsung web site by months end, I should call again and request that it be emailed to me. These things take time I suppose.

Just got off the phone with Samsung and told them of my black out and power cycling problems. I asked if there was a firmware update and they said it is in work. I asked if there was one that he could email to me and he said there is an update that they have for email, but that it did not address these problems. He said that they knew about the problems one week after delivering the first sets to the retailers. He said that the firmware that addresses the black out and power cycling problems will be done by the end of this month. He said that if it does not appear on the Samsung web site by months end, I should call again and request that it be emailed to me. These things take time I suppose.


I too got off the phone with Samsung support and they confirmed what Patsy said (albeit with much less detail). Firmware is in the works, no ETA.

Anyone know what the "other" (currently available via email) firmware addresses?

I don't see any firmware for the HL61A750 either, but you did manage to get me excited.
Had my first power resets last night. Uggh! Those in addition to many black screen events. I talked with Samsung rep yesterday and he said that he had not heard of the problem and that I needed to have a tech come to my house. Garbage. I asked him to log it as a problem. He thought my TV was a LCD at first. No telling what they are doing to help.

I called yesterday Samsung support and they transferred me twice to level two tech but was not able to give a clear solution to the problem. He did promise me to sent e-mail with update. No word as of now.
Also, I pointed these guys to this forum, hope they already know about it. I am not sure if they really know about this issue or they just want to look ignorant about this issue.

I am sure it is for the hl-61a750--at least that is what the guy said last night and today when I called again. The firmware came out yesterday but you could not get it until today. It is all very secret. You have to call Samsung, let them know the problem and they will send you an e-mail with the firmware for you to download onto a thumbdrive. When you get the e-mail it says the link will expire in a few days. They give you a username and password. I asked if there are any other firmware updates and they said they do not give them out unless your TV is having a specific problem. They probably don't want people to know how many problems these TVs are actually having so they are keeping it on the DL.

If you have downloaded the firmware would you be so kind as to post it on here so we can all who is experiencing this problem be able to avoid calling samsung and waiting for an email, download it and get rid of this problem?

Just got off the phone with Samsung and told them of my black out and power cycling problems. I asked if there was a firmware update and they said it is in work. I asked if there was one that he could email to me and he said there is an update that they have for email, but that it did not address these problems. He said that they knew about the problems one week after delivering the first sets to the retailers. He said that the firmware that addresses the black out and power cycling problems will be done by the end of this month. He said that if it does not appear on the Samsung web site by months end, I should call again and request that it be emailed to me. These things take time I suppose.

Wow-- that is not at all what they told me. They e-mailed me a firmware update today and I already put it on my TV. I went to tier 2 help and the person told me that this should fix the problem but that this was the first time he had heard of the problem--yeah right. The firmware update was new because I just bought my TV on Saturday, got it on Sunday, and the TV accepted the update (meaning it was not already on there). I asked 3 seperate people at Samsung and they all said it addresses the problem with the powering off/reset issue. I would call again...but who knows if this update will even do anything.

If you have downloaded the firmware would you be so kind as to post it on here so we can all who is experiencing this problem be able to avoid calling samsung and waiting for an email, download it and get rid of this problem?

The problem is that the download is added to my profile at samsung. If you were to download it, they would have no record of you doing it and if the firmware has a problem, they might not fix it for you since you are not in their records as having it. The username and password is authenic to my profile.

Yes, if true... please post the firmware for download.

Here's a free place to even upload it:

http://www.box.net

The problem is that the download is added to my profile at samsung. If you were to download it, they would have no record of you doing it and if the firmware has a problem, they might not fix it for you since you are not in their records as having it. The username and password is authenic to my profile.

If the firmware can be placed onto a thumb drive, then it can be uploaded.

Also, at this point Samsung doesn't seem to be supporting the fact that there's an issue so I don't think anyone here would care if Samsung supports the TV with or without firmware upgrade since they've been pretty crappy about it so far.

Please, upload it if true.

If you want to email me (send a PM for my email address) the firmware, I'll put it on my google homepage and can put a link to it in the problems spreadsheet.

Well kirr,
get watching many hours of TV and let us know the results.

What is the original and newer firmware version #'s ?

Any serious gamers out there... How is the input lag on this set?

Steve Panosian (Samsung exec) just e-mailed me yesterday in response to the links I sent him for the Google spreadsheet we've been compiling and my YouTube videos--and he didn't say a thing about firmware being available this soon (also he did say the issues would be addressed--it was a pretty short vague response). I guess I will be calling Samsung tonight as I have maybe a week left in my return period with CC and they have not responded yet to my request for an extended return window.

On a related note I found a EB Games with the 360 VGA cable in stock so I'll see if I have the tearing and black screen issues with VGA 1080p--but if new firmware fixes the issue maybe it is a moot point. Still need my 2nd component input back for my original Xbox (old HLM had 3 component inputs), so it isn't a wasted purchase. And besides, word is VGA is the best bet anyway with the recent 360 update fixes and setting the black level correctly. . .

Any serious gamers out there... How is the input lag on this set?

None seen, but I never had issues with the HLN/HLM either. My kids have put in some Wii time on it so I think they would have noticed an issue vs. the older DLP I had.

I'm on hold (yet again) and the support guy is attempting to email me the firmware update as we speak.

I'm on hold (yet again) and the support guy is attempting to email me the firmware update as we speak.
All things considered, it sounds like Samsung is working this issue even if they aren't acknowledging the problem. Having said that, many of us can't be sure that the problem will solve our problems since they don't repeat frequently. For those that can repeat the issue(s), please confirm your results of this patch.

I've tried 3x to get the firmware but the people I talk to say one is not available.. what gives?

I'm on hold (yet again) and the support guy is attempting to email me the firmware update as we speak.


So any luck with the firmware? :o

Someone like turls really needs to get the firmware since he can reproduce his issue. Seems like it would be the best way to test if it works or not.

Ok I have a quesiton aside from the shut off issues we've been having.

Is this TV 120hz or not? I've seen it referenced as such but it seems to lack the 120hz "motion plus" options or whatever like the samsung LCDs. Is it ALWAYS at 120 hz?

Only reason I care is for movie playback @ 24fps. Does it truly support 24fps? Is it refreshed @ 24, 72 or 120? Sorry if this is confusing but I've not seen a clear answer to this.

You 750 owners, I wouldnt be loading any firmware until it is fully acknowledged. Number one, it will probably void your warranty. Number 2, If it was provided to one person and they pulled it after that there may be a reason they pulled it and went back in to "its in the works" routine.

You could brick your set...

I've tried 3x to get the firmware but the people I talk to say one is not available.. what gives?
Same here - they say they know nothing about any firmware for the 61a750

Ok I have a quesiton aside from the shut off issues we've been having.

Is this TV 120hz or not? I've seen it referenced as such but it seems to lack the 120hz "motion plus" options or whatever like the samsung LCDs. Is it ALWAYS at 120 hz?

Only reason I care is for movie playback @ 24fps. Does it truly support 24fps? Is it refreshed @ 24, 72 or 120? Sorry if this is confusing but I've not seen a clear answer to this.

yes, its 120hz. DLP RPTV's do not need the "motion plus" bs because the tech does not suffer from motion bluring like LCDs do. The only real advantage to the 120hz is correctly displaying 24p (which it does to my knowledge) and future 3d modes.

yes, its 120hz. DLP RPTV's do not need the "motion plus" bs because the tech does not suffer from motion bluring like LCDs do. The only real advantage to the 120hz is correctly displaying 24p (which it does to my knowledge) and future 3d modes.

Does the TVs film mode upconvert SD DVD to 1080p24? I don't own a blu-ray player but would like to get the smoothest image from SD DVD.

Does the TVs film mode upconvert SD DVD to 1080p24? I don't own a blu-ray player but would like to get the smoothest image from SD DVD.

I do not think any tv has this feature. "Film Mode" to my knowledge is the 3:2 pulldown which even though causes judder was created in order to try to display 24hz images as good as possible (at the time).

I could be wrong though

I have the speakers turned off on the set however every time I reboot my TiVo the speakers on the set get turned on. If I go into the menu they say they are turned off however I have to toggle them back to on/off before they turn off.
I've experienced the same issue (and man, the volume is LOUD). Power cycling the TV seems to solve the issue too.

You 750 owners, I wouldnt be loading any firmware until it is fully acknowledged. Number one, it will probably void your warranty. Number 2, If it was provided to one person and they pulled it after that there may be a reason they pulled it and went back in to "its in the works" routine.

You could brick your set...

Yes...this is the reason why I don't want to give out my user name and password or give anyone the fix -- in case it breaks your set. I don't want to be liable! :)
So far, we have had the ps3 on all day since the fix and no resets. I will post if we have any.
I am not sure the firmware upgrade model because they did not give it to me and it is not on the e-mail; however, it did upgrade the TV so it was newer than the current one that I had.
Please let me know what happens when you call. I am very interested! Hey, if I ruined my set with this upgrade than Samsung is at fault!

So any luck with the firmware? :oIt's installed. You can verify it by:

1. Press Menu
2. Press Setup
3. While SW Upgrade is highlighted Press Info.

Mine went from version 1001 to 1004 and it does reset the set. The firmware is dated 4/4/08.

It's installed. You can verify it by:

1. Press Menu
2. Press Setup
3. While SW Upgrade is highlighted Press Info.

Mine went from version 1001 to 1004 and it does reset the set. The firmware is dated 4/4/08.

That is what I have too.

It's installed. You can verify it by:

1. Press Menu
2. Press Setup
3. While SW Upgrade is highlighted Press Info.

Mine went from version 1001 to 1004 and it does reset the set. The firmware is dated 4/4/08.

Awesome, now we know how to get the firmware level without going into the service menu.

This thread needs a FAQ.

That is interresting. That is the same date they released firmware for the A650 with the same type of issue. Hmmmmmmmm I wonder?

http://www.samsung.com/us/support/news/supportNewsAlertsList.do?group=&type=&subtype=&model_nm=

Why cant they just post it in their download section at samsung's website. Why do they have to be so secrete about it. I guarantee you if you have a ps3 or xbox 360 that 99percent of the time the tv will reset it self at some point if left on for a long period of time.

Samsung is replacing my hlt5687 with a hl61A750.... this thread is not giving me any hope that it will be any better, get rid of one problem to get another.....

Why cant they just post it in their download section at samsung's website. Why do they have to be so secrete about it. I guarantee you if you have a ps3 or xbox 360 that 99percent of the time the tv will reset it self at some point if left on for a long period of time.

I have both and have not experienced a reset problem yet.

i wouldnt worry. A firmware update should correct the problem.

It's installed. You can verify it by:

1. Press Menu
2. Press Setup
3. While SW Upgrade is highlighted Press Info.

Mine went from version 1001 to 1004 and it does reset the set. The firmware is dated 4/4/08.

Earlier in the thread you mentioned your SRS would reset to off every time the power is turned off. Did this firmware solve this issue? I'm waiting for a Samsung tech to call me back with a fix for this.

Ok, found a EB Games with Microsoft VGA 360 cable in stock and briefly hooked up the 360 by VGA and picked what corresponds to 1080p resolution-and I couldn't get anything to act up (no tearing, no black screens, but have not tried watching a HD-DVD on it yet). I lose the ability to adjust Tint and Color with this mode, which sucks (if it was a PC, which Samsung obviously expects, it wouldn't be an issue). I need to adjust the black level, which if the TV is expecting a 0 IRE source, I should set it to "extended". Does anybody know what this TV or recent DLPs were set to expect on VGA input, 0 IRE or 7.5 IRE? (or something in-between--there is a "intermediate" setting too)

I will try to calibrate with the Halo Legendary edition calibration disc tonight when the light levels in the room are better, but with black level set to "extended" it seems like blacks are too dark.

Earlier in the thread you mentioned your SRS would reset to off every time the power is turned off. Did this firmware solve this issue? I'm waiting for a Samsung tech to call me back with a fix for this.What I actually reported is the set would turn its speakers on even though they were set to off every time I rebooted the TiVo HD which hasn't been resolved.

I didn't know buying a TV would turn into a second job. I went through 15 mins of being on hold with tech support. The second level tech never heard of the firmware as well as the first level. The second level saw that he could send an update, but didn't know what it was for. The second level tech talked to his boss, who didn't know about the update. Then he looked again and saw it was for the power cycle issue. So he was able to send it to me. Wish I would have had this yesterday before I went through the trouble of exchanging the TV twice. Lets hope this fixes the problem without creating more problems.

Earlier in the thread you mentioned your SRS would reset to off every time the power is turned off. Did this firmware solve this issue? I'm waiting for a Samsung tech to call me back with a fix for this.
I was told that no fix available but suddenly they found it after asking about whether they acknowledge the issue. Getting setup for it now! I'm heading home to apply it soon.

It fixed the SRS not staying on issue when I updated mine. It didn't fix my Xbox 360 having problems at 1080p over component though. I can live with 1080i as long as the power cycle issue is fixed, and no new issues pop up.

can someone please tell me where I can get the firmware?? I just called level 2 ts and he said this is the first time he had heard of it with this model. I would really like to get this taken care of before my wife kills me for buying samsung and not sony.

It didn't fix my Xbox 360 having problems at 1080p over component though. I can live with 1080i as long as the power cycle issue is fixed, and no new issues pop up.

Hmm...I'm going to take an educated guess and assume the issues were screen blanking and/or tearing?

I speculate that fix may be in the release to public firmware due end of month. Hopefully.

can someone please tell me where I can get the firmware?? I just called level 2 ts and he said this is the first time he had heard of it with this model. I would really like to get this taken care of before my wife kills me for buying samsung and not sony.

Ditto.

I would like to get this installed ASAP to make sure at least the power cycling is taken care of. That return/exchange window grows shorter by the day...

It fixed the SRS not staying on issue when I updated mine. It didn't fix my Xbox 360 having problems at 1080p over component though. I can live with 1080i as long as the power cycle issue is fixed, and no new issues pop up.
I asked what this fixed resolved and was told 2 things:
- Power cycle issue
- Surround sound reset issue when TV power off and back on

Just wanted to give an update. Since installing the firmware, we have had no issues with the ps3 playing blu ray. We have not played any games on it yet and do not know if it will power reset with games. We let the TV play two movies back to back on the ps3 and so far...no problems.

On another note, if you need to find out where to get the firmware, read the previous page. You have to call Samsung and ask for the upgrade. You can tell them which upgrade you need by letting them know the upgrade version (all listed on the previous page).

That is interresting. That is the same date they released firmware for the A650 with the same type of issue. Hmmmmmmmm I wonder?

http://www.samsung.com/us/support/news/supportNewsAlertsList.do?group=&type=&subtype=&model_nm=

Just to clarify, this is the LCD A650, not the 650 DLP series.

Sorry, a lot of posts with a lot of reset issues. It was Post #1623 which commented on my post about the SRS issue. Every 750 I've tested has this problem and with the new posts it might be corrected with this firmware.

I was told that no fix available but suddenly they found it after asking about whether they acknowledge the issue. Getting setup for it now! I'm heading home to apply it soon.
Patch applied! No restarts yet! (but it's only been 2 minutes so far)

Just wanted to give an update. Since installing the firmware, we have had no issues with the ps3 playing blu ray. We have not played any games on it yet and do not know if it will power reset with games. We let the TV play two movies back to back on the ps3 and so far...no problems.

On another note, if you need to find out where to get the firmware, read the previous page. You have to call Samsung and ask for the upgrade. You can use my reference number or you can tell them which upgrade you need by letting them know the upgrade version (all listed on the previous page).

I appreciate that. I just got off the phone with one ECR and after finally getting him to admit that the firmware existed, he said the only way they could send it to me was on a flash drive via postal mail. :mad:

I told him repeatedly I have a flash drive, I have internet access, I have an email address, could you please send the firmware (or a link) via email and he said no, the only way is thru postal mail. :mad::mad:

I'm on hold again with another support person. I may have to use your case number.

Thanks again.

I appreciate that. I just got off the phone with one ECR and after finally getting him to admit that the firmware existed, he said the only way they could send it to me was on a flash drive via postal mail. :mad:

I told him repeatedly I have a flash drive, I have internet access, I have an email address, could you please send the firmware (or a link) via email and he said no, the only way is thru postal mail. :mad::mad:

I'm on hold again with another support person. I may have to use your case number.

Thanks again.

Doh! The csr just sent me an email (not here yet, still waiting). I was on the phone all of five minutes. Sigh.

I called back and got someone else, but he didn't want to give it to me, but i insisted and he emailed it to me, no restarts, no screen drop outs. yeah!!!!!:cool:

I asked what this fixed resolved and was told 2 things:
- Power cycle issue
- Surround sound reset issue when TV power off and back on

I called Samsung again today but CSR was rude and had know understanding of this issue except saying there is no update.
I called again with case # posted in this forum and this time CSR sent did sent me firmware in e-mail (URL with some other case# and pwd).
I downloaded in USB drive and updated. So for no problem. Let us see how for we go.

Thanks everyone to update details and helping each other.

Called up Samsung, spoke to "Rebecca" and she put me on hold for about 2 minutes then came back with the good news. She emailed me the update, I applied it, and here's hoping :D

why cant they just post it on their downloads at www.samsung.com

Called Samsung when I got home from work. Immediately told the agent that I had a A750 with the power cycle issue. Told them that the avs forums had mentioned firmware 1004 had been released today. Took about 5 minutes to get it emailed to me.

About half way thought First Blood on Blu-Ray without a power cycle. So far so good.

Also just test the SRS reset issue and it seems to be resolved.

why cant they just post it on their downloads at www.samsung.comWhy Samsung doesn't post firmware updates has always been questionable. Guess they just don't want that rare service call that you have bricked your display because of not following a simple procedure. Other display vendors post their firmware online. :rolleyes:

If anyone is on and has it in their good heart to send me the firmware, I'd much appreciate it. Even though I was told it was being sent, I never got it in about an hour and a half wait.

I called back, and the next rep said it didn't look like it was sent. He put me in the queue, but I may not get it until tomorrow. I lack patience...if you would be willing, send me a PM.

Thanks.

I hear you on that, I would like it as well, and if I get it your the first person I will PM JD...

I hear you on that, I would like it as well, and if I get it your the first person I will PM JD...

Likewise. No luck tonight, everyone must be enjoying their TV's. :)

Hopefully I'll get it tomorrow.

I'm supposed to be getting it later tonight lol we shall see if that happens...

ok, Now that I have the firmware all uploaded and no more power reset issues, I have noticed that the TV is bowing slightly on the lower right hand corner. It is not much. Is there anything I can do about this other than return the TV? I would rather buy a more expensive TV at this point than to deal with all of these problems. Is there a way to fix the slight bowing?

question for people with the new firmware, was this the file name T-AQMAUSC.exe ?

I would also appreciate the firmware. Can't seem to get it from samsung so far. Would one of you who has it PLEASE upload it and post a link? Some of us aren't able to get it as Samsung is really giving us trouble.