Do you want the actual Inlet and Outlet used in the PowerBridge (PB)? Your DIY project could be cheaper :D

Some sources (links) for purchasing are listed in POST #6 (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=12839405#post12839405)

Forum Member ToxinLab was able to find the Inlet for $11 at his local electrical supply house. You should be able to build a DIY PowerBridge for under $20.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=100746&d=1201647825Part #5278-SS

Available in Gray or Black (PowerBridge's White Kit option is also Gray inside the hole if you look).

http://www.passandseymour.com/productcatalog/product.cfm?s=193&mkt=1

and/or

http://www.passandseymour.com/pdf/G10.pdf

Gray Inlet: Part #5278-SS, Black Inlet: Part #5278-SSBK

Though they are using a 'rubber washer' with adhesive on both sides to mount the inlet to a wall/face plate with a round hole (http://www.passandseymour.com/pdf/S11.pdf), you should be able to figure how to glue it on.

Add remodel boxes, standard power outlet (or use the actual one the PB has: Part #5251-W - see below), a 2nd wall/face plate with a round hole (http://www.passandseymour.com/pdf/S11.pdf) and some Romex wire and you have your own PB DIY project while saving some $. :D

If you would rather have the convenience of purchasing a complete kit and $ is no problem, just buy the PowerBridge Kit. (http://www.powerbridgesolution.com/aboutpowerbridge.html) I did and recommend it. The extra $25 is not a big deal IMO... :)


http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=100747&d=1201647825Part #5251-W

http://www.passandseymour.com/productcatalog/product.cfm?s=110&mkt=1

and/or

http://www.passandseymour.com/pdf/B17.pdf

Other colors available!

You need a recessed box adapter if you want the plug recessed like the PB. If you do use the recessed adapter, the metal is cut off just above the first screw holes from the outlet (1 on each side). Those two screw holes are used to attach the outlet to the recessed adapter.

Here are some pics showing the PowerBridge up close (you can see how the Inlet is mounted to the wall/face plate).

Similar solution discussed in this thread:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=617929&highlight=power+inlet


get a blank plate and drill a hole for this $15 part:

http://www.alliedelec.com/Search/ProductDetail.asp?SKU=627-0122&SEARCH=&ID=&DESC=HBL5278C&R=627%2D0122&sid=478BF7807E6C617F

http://nightskypictures.com/theater/Rec_Plug.jpg

Not bad, but I wanted to match the updated and sleek look of the other outlets in the room... :)

You can find the actual plug used in the PB for approx. the same $ as the Hubbell, of course you don't need to drill the hole either.. :D

you know with all the power inlet stuff... couldn't you just wire 2 outlets together and then make a powercable with 2 male ends and be done with it?

you know with all the power inlet stuff... couldn't you just wire 2 outlets together and then make a powercable with 2 male ends and be done with it?

If you want to see if it's plugged in you could just touch the prongs to your tongue.

Generally not a good idea to create a lethal weapon if you have kids, pets, parties, etc.

Links for the Inlet:

#5278-SS
http://www.electriciansupplies.com/index.cfm/S/392/CLID/4162/N/13624/P/104127/Pass_&_Seymour_-_5278-SS_--_1_Each.htm


#5251-W
http://www.electriciansupplies.com/index.cfm/S/336/CLID/3874/N/12622/P/104075/Pass_&_Seymour_-_5251W_--_1_Each.htm


SEARCH FOR OTHER OUTLETS HERE:
http://www.electriciansupplies.com/index.cfm/S/336/CLID/3874/N/12622/Duplex_&_Single_Receptacles.htm


Search around.. Pass and Seymour (Slater) is a large manufacturer and their products are widely distributed. I've seen the Inlet cheaper but didn't find the link when I searched last. :cool:

Yeah, that's the exact one I used. I think I paid $11 for it at my local electrical supply house.


-S

Authentic Leviton Products for your PowerBridge DIY.
Thanks turbe, but that site you provided waaaay too expensive.
Thanks to johnrbek for this WebSite go on click on the links

http://kscdirect.com/item/LEV%2B5278-C/5278-C________%25231CDFLANGED_INLET
http://kscdirect.com/item/LEV%2B80704-W/80704-W_______N7-W
http://kscdirect.com/item/LEV%2B80720-W/80720-W_______N726-W
I included 2 links for matching wall plates. The dia. on one is 1.406"(80704) the other is 1.6"(80720).

Oh they also carry the clock receptacle http://kscdirect.com/item/LEV%2B688-W/688-W_________CLOCK_RECEPT

That being said you could probably pick these up in a local Electrical Shop as well.

Well, I wasn't going to 'do' a comprehensive Google search for you all... :D

Pass and Seymour is a large Manufacturer and does manufacture parts for various companies so it doesn't surprise me that you found a better price than I found at approx. $15... :)

I hope this information helps all who are interested. If time is an issue and the extra $25 is not a problem, purchase the complete kit from PowerBridge (like I did).

I will post a picture later that will show how the inlet is attached to the wall/face plate.

:D

you know with all the power inlet stuff... couldn't you just wire 2 outlets together and then make a powercable with 2 male ends and be done with it?


Not sure about the US but in Alberta (and I suspect all of Canada) this is against code and illegal (for obvious reasons). Just a heads up incase some people have their cables and wire strippers ready to go. Best to look into it for your state / province codes and be sure you want to go that way before you do it. In Alberta if you had a fire you'd be SOL for insurance not to mention the threat of "electrocution" by using that type of cable.

Ironically I can actually remember when they used to sell these as kid but at some point over the last 30+ years someone realized it wasn't a very good idea.

These are posts from other threads.
Would I be correct if I said that the Power Bridge kit is simple two Old Work boxes, two single recessed clock receptacles, and two face-plates, plus a 36" male-male extension cord? (Romex not included.)

Why buy the "kit" for $50?


Already suggested, by me...you'd have to find a male to male power cord which is hard to come by. Someone else mentioned it would be unsafe.

DON'T DO THIS! At first sounds like a good idea, but what happens if you unplug the male end that feeds the wall and the cable is still powered?

For some money is not a problem, but if you're on a budget YOUR SAFETY and your FAMILY'S safety is PRIORITY. Just buy the PowerBridge Solution.

http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=3288720576091704438&q=electrocution&total=1836&start=0&num=10&so=0&type=search&plindex=5

I updated the first Post with pictures of the PowerBridge (closeups).

Though the instruction sheet states "The BLUE boxes are specific to each wall plate, as one has been trimmed to properly fit the POWER OUTLET plate" I see no difference between the two BLUE "Old Work" boxes and the Outlet plate does not fit totally snug to the wall. It's not bad at all, about 1/16" at the most but I may email them and ask what exactly was trimmed.

All my plates are snug.. :D

I finally got around to taking a picture of my Pass & Seymour inlet instalation, which including modifying a 4-gang decora plate and filling in holes with a blank decora panel (available at partsexpress.com). http://s204.photobucket.com/albums/bb311/dryanlocker/?action=view&current=IMG_0586.jpg

Now my Epson is protected via a TrippLite UPS, and meets code.
http://s204.photobucket.com/albums/bb311/dryanlocker/?action=view&current=IMG_0590.jpg

http://s204.photobucket.com/albums/bb311/dryanlocker/?action=view&current=IMG_0591.jpg

If someone wants to tell me a better way to post pics, I am all ears.

You can post pics directly from Reply/Post in this Forum. You do have to be in "Advance" mode, then select "Manage Attachments".

Photobucket is fine, you can also use the directly in your posts...


[IMG]http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=99715&d=1200793030

Thanks for all the info on this subject. I just built my setup. Thought I would let you know that a 1.75" hole saw in one of those unbreakable plastic J-box covers you can buy at Home Depot works perfectly for this:

http://pages.sbcglobal.net/ginmtb/IMG_5571.JPG

Authentic Leviton Products for your PowerBridge DIY.
Thanks turbe, but that site you provided waaaay too expensive.
Thanks to johnrbek for this WebSite go on click on the links

http://kscdirect.com/item/LEV%2B5278-C/5278-C________%25231CDFLANGED_INLET
http://kscdirect.com/item/LEV%2B80704-W/80704-W_______N7-W
http://kscdirect.com/item/LEV%2B80720-W/80720-W_______N726-W
I included 2 links for matching wall plates. The dia. on one is 1.406"(80704) the other is 1.6"(80720).

Oh they also carry the clock receptacle http://kscdirect.com/item/LEV%2B688-W/688-W_________CLOCK_RECEPT

That being said you could probably pick these up in a local Electrical Shop as well.

Note that neither of these wall plates will work with the Leviton inlet - I picked up both since they were less than $2 for both. The screw holes don't line up with the inlet. You could however glue the inlet on the back of the plate and then use the screw holes to secure the plate to a J-box (although I don't think they're designed for that as they're much lower than where a J-box screw holes are located - they're designed to screw onto an outlet that fits the hole. That outlet is first screwed into the J-box). Both hole diameters are too small also to drop the inlet in (top mount).

Just a quick observation. From the pictures provided by our OP it looks like the outlet is just a clock receptacle w/ a fancy wall plate.
Also I just ordered this part from Allied Electronics Marinco Flanged Inlet (http://www.alliedelec.com/Search/ProductDetail.asp?SKU=540-0116&SEARCH=&MPN=5278&DESC=5278&R=540%2D0116&sid=47AA4A007760617F) Its the same as the others i.e; Pass&Seymour, Hubbell, and Leviton. I checked the specs in the PDF format on Allied's web page. Here is the Marinco link. Marinco WebSite (http://www.marinco.com/scpt/ProdPage.php?loadItem=5278_Marinco%20SWD%20Industrial#)

I'm in the process of moving if not I would've posted pictures of the part. I believe it came out to around $15 w/ shipping. I'll post pictures of my install once I'm done.

Hey guys,

Where do I find the PowerBridge for around $50 ? I went to PowerBridge website and it's $69.95 for AVS members.

Hey guys,

Where do I find the PowerBridge for around $50 ? I went to PowerBridge website and it's $69.95 for AVS members.

They did raise their price, but you can email them and ask for the $50 AVS Forum Member Price. I did this and was able to purchase their solution for $50 plus shipping.

Thanks turbe. I just emailed them.

I found an even slightly cheaper way, and is even slightly safer? :)

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=95279 with http://cgi.ebay.com/Leviton-L7-15-Locking-Flanged-Inlet-15A-277V-4786-C_W0QQitemZ250235078021QQihZ015QQcategoryZ73135QQrdZ1QQssPag eNameZWD1VQQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1638Q2em118Q2el1247 for the connection side, using an unbreakable wall plate with the 1.75" whole saw, then whatever you like on the other with some sort of proper gauge romex style wire.

I like 15 bucks a lot more than 50, and there's a little something extra it seems you get when you make a commercially available product yourself.

Can someone please explain why the TV / projector side is recessed? What's the point?

Can someone please explain why the TV / projector side is recessed? What's the point?


For flat panels it is to make sure you have enough clearance behind the TV for the plug and cable so that you can mount the TV as close to the wall as possible.

For ceiling mounted projectors it isn't needed, but it does give you a slightly cleaner looking install when the bulk of the plug is hidden in a hole.

For flat panels it is to make sure you have enough clearance behind the TV for the plug and cable so that you can mount the TV as close to the wall as possible.

For ceiling mounted projectors it isn't needed, but it does give you a slightly cleaner looking install when the bulk of the plug is hidden in a hole.

Good reasons! Thanks! :D

Just to update this topic since I've been coming back here to get part numbers and tips...I was having problems finding the recessed single outlet for a decent price, and stumbled across the attached solution from Midlite.

Now, they do sell their own total PowerBridge solution, but I think ordering the inlet yourself and utilizing something along these lines for outlets is a pretty good deal. I was able to pick up the recessed outlet and attached wireport with grommet for roughly $10 before shipping. Saves me on buying an outlet, recessed face plate, and another LV pass-through face plate for the cables I'll be running.

FYI, I'm using 2 of these DIY PowerBridges on my screen wall to connect my sub(s) back to the line conditioner in my rack, and a 3rd PB to the (future) projector to connect to UPS.

Site ordered from:
http://www.antonline.com/p_2GESR-5251-B-SZ_566821.htm

Hope this helps anyone else looking for similar solutions.

Just to give another update.

For anyone looking to get one of the flanged inlets, but not wanting to buy from some no-name website, Amazon has this here for a good price:

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/21ZrNHnQTNL._SL500_AA250_.jpg

http://www.amazon.com/Leviton-5278-C-Flanged-Inlet-Receptacle/dp/B0017SOZ8C

And they also offer this for a buck more if it floats your boat:

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/314H1AEBQPL._SL500_AA280_.jpg

http://www.amazon.com/Leviton-Motor-Base-Grounded-Receptacle/dp/B00074USHY/ref=pd_cp_hi_1?pf_rd_p=413863601&pf_rd_s=center-41&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B0017SOZ8C&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=03R2VJC9ZT88Y0SJDXQK

-Suntan

Thought I would put my .02 cent here. I added up the parts you need to "make" a Powerbridge you posted.

$13.82 Inlet
$10.76 recessed outlet.

2) j boxes at HD $3.50
1) 6' extension power cord 14 awg 3 wire grounded heavy duty $9.80

Total $37.88

Ok, for those that want to save $2.07 please all means order these and make a trip to HD for the other parts, bet you'll burn that in gas! :eek:


OR>>> buy the GENUINE Powerbridge for $39.95 complete ready to install, color matched WHITE wall plates, don't need to figure out how to attach the INLET to a wall plate, which you are NOT supposed to do, FYI.
AVS Special Price (www.powerbridgesolution.com/avsspecialorder.html) ;)


I just don't get why "making" your own is so endorsed, can some one explain it to me based on saving $2 bucks? :confused:

Thought I would put my .02 cent here. I added up the parts you need to "make" a Powerbridge you posted...



I think your addition is a little off.

For my application, the inlet will be in an unfinished area and I don’t need it to look nice, just safe. The outlet will be on the ceiling and I don’t want a white outlet on my black ceiling.

Further, I can get a couple of junction boxes for $.55, a black outlet with a black wall plate for $2.50 and get a short patch cord for substantially less than $9.

So $12.50 for the Wall Mount inlet, $1 for a SS blank plate to mount it on, $1.10 for the two junction boxes, $2.50 for the black outlet/plate and $3 for the patch cord. Which comes out real close to half the cost of the AVSforum discount.

I don’t think anyone is really “endorsing” *not* buying a powerbridge, it is just the same as any other DIY vs commercially purchased tradeoff. In this case, I can get a system that better fits my needs, and costs a good deal less, by doing it myself.

-Suntan

Where can I get the short patch cords for a decent price? All of the cords I see are computer cords which dont fit the standard 3 prong inlet.

google outlet saver cords.

http://www.cablestogo.com/product-images/03137/200/03137a.jpg

I don't know if it was mentioned, but Monoprice also has their version of this and it also includes an LV outlet as well:

http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=105&cp_id=10425&cs_id=1042505&p_id=4652&seq=1&format=2

I don't remember the Powerbridge being so cheap before. That's not a bad price, actually, now.

Where can I get the short patch cords for a decent price? All of the cords I see are computer cords which dont fit the standard 3 prong inlet.

You can get an extension cord at any store. Any local hardware store would have a 6' extension cord. Here is one found by a guick search of HD's website, although I recently bought a similar extension cord for the freezer at the local Fleet Farm for $4.

http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&productId=100084483&N=10000003+90101+500848

On the other hand, if you have one of those spare computer cords (who doesn't,) you can get a $3 inlet from Home Depot or some place, cut the computer plug off the end and wire the regular inlet plug in instead.

http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&productId=100177580&marketID=101&locStoreNum=2833&categoryID=502102

-Suntan

...I just don't get why "making" your own is so endorsed, can some one explain it to me based on saving $2 bucks? :confused:

Maybe people want a different configuration than what Powerbridge offers?

In my case, I want a double-gang solution, with dual outlet and single inlet, similar to this, except with a decora cutout on the left side:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=13790668#post13790668

I'd even settle for a single-gang solution with both inlet and outlet. I suppose one of their "Total Solution" kits would work (put one above the other), except in that case (since the kit wastes a lot of real-estate) I want a dual-hdmi plus speaker connectors instead of component.

So no, the Powerbridge won't work for me, no matter how cheap it is.

Btw, if anyone has managed to find a 2-gang wallplate with decora + blank, let me know. I think the Levitron 84087-40 may work, except it's SS only. I also have found conflicting info on whether it's got a decora or duplex cutout.

Btw, if anyone has managed to find a 2-gang wallplate with decora + blank, let me know. I think the Levitron 84087-40 may work, except it's SS only. I also have found conflicting info on whether it's got a decora or duplex cutout.

Don't know what color you're looking for, but this site looks like they have all the basics (white, almond, brown, black) for that type of wallplate:

http://www.onestopbuy.com/80708-E-9253.asp

Don't know what color you're looking for, but this site looks like they have all the basics (white, almond, brown, black) for that type of wallplate:

http://www.onestopbuy.com/80708-E-9253.asp

Thanks, but that's the wall plate I already have. Unfortunately, the mounting holes on the left don't quite line up with the mounting holes for the inlet. I'll probably have to do something similar to this (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=13877050#post13877050), which isn't a big deal. I just would've preferred nothing on the left side, or at least have the holes match the ones on the right.

It is funny that people think its OK to modify electrical parts. When you do, you VOID ALL listing intended use by it's manufacturer and any field inspector will not likely pass it. Code is very clear as to not to make modifications that change the UL listing. Field inspectors can decide if to accept or not, but don't expect it. Consider if you sell the house, the home inspector may hold up the sale if there are things that do not meet code or listing. Is it worth it to save $10-20 dollars? really?

If you want DECORA insert next to the outlet/inlet, doing it the way you showed on a blank wall plate and drilling it out is a VERY BAD idea in my opinion.

If you look on the Powerbridge website (www.powerbridgesolution.com/avsspecialorder.html) you'll see they make a kit that has DECORA insert opening. It shows it with a scoop and with other decora HDMI inserts. Those are removable and will fit ANY decora insert you want to screw in on the back. The AVS price for it is dirt cheap for $54 bucks.

It seems so crazy that anyone would go through all the hassle to make their own and risk a possible problem down the road. EVEN though you want to have the pride of DIY. Some things are better NOT as a DIY. Those parts, specifically the INLETS are NOT intended to be attached to a wall plate by modification to a wall plate. read the FAQ (http://www.powerbridgesolution.com/faq.html) go down the page a little.

It is funny

Geez...

Would everyone else that feels like they need to constantly nanny the f**k out of all of us just get it out now. Either get it out now or just shut the yapper and acknowledge that we are all adults here.

Fact, 9 out of 10 city inspectors are going to start giving you some very inquiring questions as soon as they see 3 prongs sticking out the side of your wall. Regardless if you have a fancy "Powerbridge" advertisement pamphlet to show him or not.

And let's be real here, there is not a single house built that would completely pass a home inspection if the inspector really went over it with a fine tooth comb.

Look, everyone here is a big boy and can decide for themselves what they want to buy and/or install in their houses. We don't need the mother harpies constantly hovering over us telling us that we are cheap and reckless.

-Suntan

It is funny that people think its OK to modify electrical parts. When you do, you VOID ALL listing intended use by it's manufacturer and any field inspector will not likely pass it. Code is very clear as to not to make modifications that change the UL listing. Field inspectors can decide if to accept or not, but don't expect it. Consider if you sell the house, the home inspector may hold up the sale if there are things that do not meet code or listing. Is it worth it to save $10-20 dollars? really?


While the above is quite true, I really don't see any safety issue in making a custom plate from a blank plate PROVIDED IT'S A METAL PLATE. Using a plastic plate is dangerous. The inlet is supported to the plate and not the outlet box. The force needed to insert and remove the plug will break the plate in time and risk shorting out or coming into contact with the exposed inlet.

Even though it's still not UL approved, a metal plate holding an inlet is still safe IMO.

Best option is a 4in surface switch plate and enlarge the switch hole. These however don't flush mount to the wall. These are typically 16ga metal.

Geez...

Would everyone else that feels like they need to constantly nanny the f**k out of all of us just get it out now. Either get it out now or just shut the yapper and acknowledge that we are all adults here.

-Suntan


I would agree you are "acting" very much like an adult here.
:confused:

I forgot, isn't this a PUBLIC forum used to comment and provide information and discuss topics?

OR

Is this THE SUNTAN FORUM and we all should get out or shut up?

Anyone else confused as to who runs the rules here? If it is SUNTAN, my bad, I'll just shut up and leave, because I wish not to be YAPPED at for posting a valuable comment to others.

Sorry to have upset your apple-cart SUNTAN, really.;)

While the above is quite true, I really don't see any safety issue in making a custom plate from a blank plate PROVIDED IT'S A METAL PLATE. Using a plastic plate is dangerous. The inlet is supported to the plate and not the outlet box. The force needed to insert and remove the plug will break the plate in time and risk shorting out or coming into contact with the exposed inlet.

Even though it's still not UL approved, a metal plate holding an inlet is still safe IMO.

Best option is a 4in surface switch plate and enlarge the switch hole. These however don't flush mount to the wall. These are typically 16ga metal.

Glimmie, my post was not to "nag" it is based on TRUE facts, period. There is no "gray" area as to making modifications to a LISTED component, period, makes no difference if it's metal or titanium.

Sure these may all work fine, the point is people need to make a decision based on facts and not someone who did it and can't back up the facts it will be code compliant, as I've read throughout this thread, it's simply NOT CODE COMPLIANT to make modifications.

IF,,,, IF you make one of these and IF,,, IF you have a problem and IF you have some type of an inspection, you MAY have a PROBLEM. Yes, it's all about the IF!!! I get it!!!

It's very simple, use FACTS to make your own decision as to making modifications to an electrical listed device.

Is it really worth maybe saving $10 bucks, REALLY?

I continue to be amazed what some folks do to save money. Kind of like the guy who drives an extra 10 miles across town to "save" .10 cents on a gallon of gas for a 20 gallon tank, he saved $2.00 overall but that 20 miles round trip cost about $3.00! Think about it :D

Glimmie, my post was not to "nag" it is based on TRUE facts, period. There is no "gray" area as to making modifications to a LISTED component, period, makes no difference if it's metal or titanium.

Sure these may all work fine, the point is people need to make a decision based on facts and not someone who did it and can't back up the facts it will be code compliant, as I've read throughout this thread, it's simply NOT CODE COMPLIANT to make modifications...
You do make a good point that it isn't to code. However, the way you delivered your message was very lacking in tact. When I first read it, I thought "What a sanctimonious @ss!" Reading it a few more times, I realized that you didn't mean to come off that way, but unfortunately, that's the tone your post conveys. I'm not surprised at the response you got.

Also, anytime I hear things like "you can't do that because...", I always have to ask, "Where does it say that?"

Not saying you're wrong. I'd just like to read it for myself. And the Powerbridge site doesn't count.

...Is it really worth maybe saving $10 bucks, REALLY?

I continue to be amazed what some folks do to save money...

Again, the tone of your post is not that of someone trying to be helpful. It's that of someone wanting to point out that everyone else is an idiot.

And as I said before, Powerbridge does not offer what I'm looking for, at any price! If they offered a 2-gang dual outlet + inlet solution, I would've jumped all over it. Assuming, of course, that the wall plate is something I can swap out with something that matches my existing wall plates. So no, it really has nothing to do with cost, and everything to do with not offering what I want.

goldenbear,

I appreciate your view on my tone, didn't realize I had a tone in my writing, now I do and I'll try to be aware of it. I just call like I see it I guess, should I try posting in smaller font? LOL:D

Did I say "you can't do it"? You can do anything you want, just be aware of what facts are. My posting is intended to point out a factual view compared to what this entire thread is recommending, which is not automatically an OK thing to do, just because someone decided to modify it and post pictures does not make it ok to do, right?

Does anyone else find it absurd, a Powerbridge exists to run electrical power up the wall to meet CODE so you don't run an extension cord in the wall which if you don't care about CODE COMPLIANCY, then just run a cord in the wall and spend nothing and save 100%!

I think we all agree it is not CODE or recommended to run a cord in the wall, so tell me why it's OK to recommend to others to make modifications that also does not meet CODE? (I'm trying real hard not to make a bad tone her, just not sure if I'm successful)

But what is really FUNNY here is a full thread with over 9000 views showing how to NOT do something to CODE. ??? Help me out here, does this make sense; a thread telling you to make a short cut to make it "appear" to be CODE compliant and it is NOT OK to modify a listed component and expect it to still meet code and "trust" what your being told and seeing is OK.

I'm only posting for those who are reading this and wanting to be CODE, but you have to realize folks, the DIY idea here does not meet code.

Ok, I'll try to get off my "soap-box", just trying to point out some other ideas that are not stated here in this "false" idea thread. Sorry for my tone. :o

Actually an extension cord that was run into an electrical box and then twister nut connected to the romex inside the box passed inspection. See BritinVA thread.

He cut a hole in the cover plate added a little fitting to dress it up and made out just fine.

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k242/BritInVA/139-3938_IMG.jpg

Ok, I'll try to get off my "soap-box", just trying to point out some other ideas that are not stated here in this "false" idea thread. Sorry for my tone.

Get over yourself already.

You have posted nothing new since your first post in which you inferred that we were all being cheap by trying to save just a few bucks while doing things "we weren't supposed to do." A couple of people, including myself, posted back stating that it wasn't about money but about the power bridge not being configured for what we want. You simply ignored those comments and posted a second post going on about how you thought we were cheap and how your powerbridge website proves beyond a shadow of a doubt that we are all going to go straight to jail after having our children burned as they sleep in their beds.

Again, you've offered nothing new. You've had a snarky attitude from your first post, and you continue to ignore people's responses (I also see you never acknowledged the link I provided to the Leviton inlet and cover plate combo that I posted in the post directly before your OP, no need to modify anything on that one.) Don't play dumb to try and come off as just the "Good Samaritan" here to enlighten all of us. The power bridge is a couple of junction boxes and a couple of terminals, its not the Second Coming you seem to fixate on day and night.

Unless you have something more useful to add to the discussion than your repetitive passive aggressive bit, why don't you just move along and go hassle those guys over there talking about building their own DIY projector mounts that obviously don't measure up to your structural satisfaction.

-Suntan

suntan,

we all wish we could be as galant as you.

what do you have to add to this thread except rail out against me, you're a piece of work!:D


oops my tone slipped,,, again!

suntan,

what do you have to add to this thread except rail out against me,

You mean other than a link to an inlet junction box that completely eliminates your only argument? Which I posted prior to any of your little mother-knows-best outbursts?

Here it is again since you seem to continue to ignore when people call you on your incorrect proclamations.

http://www.amazon.com/Leviton-Motor-Base-Grounded-Receptacle/dp/B00074USHY/ref=pd_cp_hi_1?pf_rd_p=413863601&pf_rd_s=center-41&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B0017SOZ8C&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=03R2VJC9ZT88Y0SJDXQK

Anyway, I'm done with this. If you have something that is actually on topic to discuss, I'd be up for that. If you want to just continue telling us all we are bad people for not buying your power bridge, I've got better things to do.

-Suntan

All this talk about code compliance. Keep in mind that technically, in nearly all jurisdictions the Powerbridge solution must be inspected due to the installation of the romex in the wall that is required. Additionally, some jurisdictions may even require you to have the work done by a licensed electrician (luckily here that is not the case). So, unless everyone pulls a permit and has an inspection done, they are probably just as out of compliance as someone who made their own.

As far as UL listings go, there is no way the complete Powerbridge silution has a UL approval because of the field installation. Sure, each piece can be listed but the system is no more listed than saying your house is UL listed because the panels and the outlets are. Actually, I would be interested in seeing their UL stickers and number for hte approval of the system as mentioned on their FAQ.

Glimmie, my post was not to "nag" it is based on TRUE facts, period. There is no "gray" area as to making modifications to a LISTED component, period, makes no difference if it's metal or titanium.

......

Read my post again. I acknowledged ANY modification to a listed product is a code violation. I further acknowldged that my metal plate suggestion was still not code compliant but still safe IMO.

The other recent posters are right. You seem to be on a crusade to force coode compliance here. It's not gonna happen. People will do what they want in their own homes. Therefor I always try to point out safer alternatives where applicable.

And furthermore any inspector has latitude to approve field modifications if they are done in a safe professional manner. The NEC is ONLY a guide. The final determination of legal vs illegal work resides with the local jurastiction.

Actually an extension cord that was run into an electrical box and then twister nut connected to the romex inside the box passed inspection. See BritinVA thread.

He cut a hole in the cover plate added a little fitting to dress it up and made out just fine.

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k242/BritInVA/139-3938_IMG.jpg

Nice job but I would have used a METAL plate :D

And furthermore any inspector has latitude to approve field modifications if they are done in a safe professional manner. The NEC is ONLY a guide. The final determination of legal vs illegal work resides with the local jurastiction.

Actually, I was just going to post this very point.

The NEC Guidebook is a GUIDE, not law. States, counties, cities, towns, etc. each post their own codes. For instance, in some cities everything has to be run in conduit (Chicago, for instance, if I remember correctly).

If an inspector passes it, then you are fine....but it doesn't necessarily mean that it is either the best way or even the safest way to do something.

Keep in mind that inspectors will sign off on construction with code deficiencies for a number of reasons. Probably a few that are criminal but most often there is often just so much to look at and things get overlooked.

Oh, yeah, you would not beleive the thigns I have run across in commercial work that were just overlooked when the inspections were done. It would make you really wonder why there are not more fires in office buildings.

Nice job but I would have used a METAL plate :D

Yeah, I keep meaning to replace it with a metal plate.........but as its in a closet and poses no tripping hazard it's not been a high priority.


Keep in mind that inspectors will sign off on construction with code deficiencies for a number of reasons. Probably a few that are criminal but most often there is often just so much to look at and things get overlooked.


I KNOW my work is far superior to what the builders electrician did. I have pretty much replaced every receptacle in the house - glad I did not just because of the builders grade crap receptacles but also because of the poor job wiring them.

Just because something is inspected does not mean its safe. My inspector opened one receptacle and on light switch and that was it. I guess if he saw any cause for concern he would have been more thorough.

Oh, yeah, you would not beleive the thigns I have run across in commercial work that were just overlooked when the inspections were done. It would make you really wonder why there are not more fires in office buildings.

Yeah, thing aren't any better in residential construction. The more I think about it, I should have paid for a thorough inspection before buying my condo. I'm not talking about the standard "turn on the light switches" so-called inspection (that I had to pay for anyway). I'm talking about taking every wallplate off, drilling holes to see the in-wall wiring, etc.

Oh well, what's done is done. That's what happens when you buy a place while working 60-90 hours/week. You just can't cover every base yourself. I'm slowly going through and fixing things as I have time.

There's a new option from Midlite if you want more color choices and single-gang installation. It's about on par with the PowerBridge in pricing, maybe a bit more expensive depending on your configuration. UL listed and no modification required.

Décor Recessed Receptacle and Power Inlet Kit (http://69.89.238.106/products.aspx?catId=767)

Kit:
http://69.89.238.106/images/products/A46-W.jpg

Separates:
http://69.89.238.106/images/products/4642-2W.jpg http://69.89.238.106/images/products/4641-2W.jpg

http://69.89.238.106/images/products/industrycolor4C.jpg

I went with 2 black inlets and a single black recessed outlet for my setup.

Both the inlets will go in my equipment room, with 1 inlet wired to 2 standard outlets behind my screen wall for the subs and the other inlet wired to the black recessed outlet at the projector location.

I also bought one of these in black for the low voltage projector wiring:
http://69.89.238.106/images/products/1GWH-GR1.jpg

Though, I'm thinking maybe I should have gotten one of these:
http://69.89.238.106/images/products/2GWH-GR2.jpg

Oh well...

I got mine from MCM (http://mcmelectronics.com). They're just starting to stock these, so they were back-ordered for a few weeks, but I finally got everything today. They seem really well built. I can post pics if people are interested.

-John

Keep in mind that the UL rating they are citing is only for the actual outlet box. It is not a compete end to end system that is approved and once the install is done with romex in between it will need to be inspected if your local jurisdiction requires that. That is if you are worried about being completely legal.

Keep in mind that the UL rating they are citing is only for the actual outlet box. It is not a compete end to end system that is approved and once the install is done with romex in between it will need to be inspected if your local jurisdiction requires that. That is if you are worried about being completely legal.

Good point, it's going to be inspected along with the rest of the basement wiring.

-John

There's a new option from Midlite if you want more color choices and single-gang installation...
OMG, I hate you so much!!! :p

I'm about 70% finished with my DYI inlet, and literally the evening I get home with the last of the parts, I see your post!

Oh well, the Midlite inlet is going to save me a lot of frustration trying to cut the hole just right, lining everything up, putting together a makeshift nutplate, etc. From the pictures, it looks like it'll fit a standard Decora wallplate, which is exactly what I was looking for, so I went ahead and ordered one. I needed a bunch of keystone decora plates/connectors and other stuff anyway, and MCM is having a nice sale right now.

Thanks for the heads-up on this. Too bad I didn't know about it a couple of months ago when I started ordering the parts, but such is life.

If you're interested in a Leviton option:

http://www.buylevitoninstead.com/Pass-Seymour-5278-SS.htm

http://www.onestopbuy.com/productimages/cd-5278-C.jpg

What is the benefit of using a power bridge?

What is the benefit of using a power bridge?

In a flat screen application you can recess the outlet for a more flush installation. In a projector application you can run the inlet to your AV rack area and have your projector hooked to a UPS and/or power conditioner.

Do people run a whole house surge instead? Is there a reason people run a UPS to their projector? Trying to decide how I am going to do it.

There is a school of thought that if you have a power failure the ability to run the fan and properly cool the bulb compartment has some advantages in avoiding the excessive build up of residual heat that would occur if the power was simply cut. It is not so much the preservation of bulb life but rather the protecting of everything around the bulb (Think $$) others will say poppycock they have had outages and their projectors were none the worse for the experience. Pick your poison. For $99 I hooked my projector circuit to a UPS and have used it twice in 5 years to cool the projector. I also experience a power outage at least once a year.

To those thinking it is unnecessary you need to ask yourself if nothing is damaged if you cut the power then why do the Manufacturer's make sure the fan runs for a cool down after you turn off the projector.

Ever the DIY'er, I "rolled my own" powerbridge type solution, for much cheaper!

First, I bought one of these: Leviton 4937 Straight Blade Receptacle (http://www.amazon.com/Leviton-4937-Straight-Blade-Receptacle/dp/B00074USHY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&s=sporting-goods&qid=1257456353&sr=8-3)

Some light machining to remove the hinged door and several coats of spray enamel later and I had this:

http://www.orderofgarpike.com/_media/rack/DSCF2673.jpg

Alt View (http://www.orderofgarpike.com/_media/rack/DSCF2674.jpg) Rear View (http://www.orderofgarpike.com/_media/rack/DSCF2675.jpg)

As a bonus, this inlet has a metal faceplate and is EXTREMELY heavy-duty in build (it's intended as a power inlet for recreational vehicles). It also has a weather gasket on it, so it makes a nice seal with the wall (less drafts).

The closet and room where my AV rack is located is painted a deep chocolate brown and has black outlet boxes.

http://www.orderofgarpike.com/_media/rack5.jpg

My inlet is not shown here, but is on the front-left wall (off screen) in this photo.

Since I was mounting this behind my plasma, I wanted a recessed box. I also needed to connect a bunch of signal cables. Best solution? Carlon SC300PRB 3-gang recessed dual voltage box.

http://ep.yimg.com/ca/I/broadbandutopia_2079_25701763

I knew I was going to be feeding the "inlet" from my APC H15 power conditioner, but one can never be TOO careful with a $3500 plasma. So I bought one of these to put in the Carlon behind the display.

http://images.lowes.com/product/804428/804428020943.jpg (http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=248359-60784-364569-02-V1&lpage=none)

This is what it looked like all together:

http://www.orderofgarpike.com/_media/media_box.jpg

So, now I have a "powerbridge" system that not only looks awesome, but has more capabilities and safety for my equipment.

Nice. I used a similar box for my install. It does look nice and finished.

Sorry to revive an old thread but I thought I would just pose my question here instead of starting a new thread.

A couple years ago when I was installing wiring for my new projector setup, my electrician installed a powerbridge type solution so I could provide AVS/battery backup protection to the projector. He installed a regular outlet in the ceiling right next to where my projector was being ceiling mounted and installed an inlet near my a/v console which sat under my screen.
I'm now in the process of installing a new a/v rack which will be recessed into the screen wall to the right of the screen. (The area behind the screen wall is accessible and unfinished)
So my question is what do I do with the inlet that is under the screen wall? I don't want to run extension cord from that back behind the wall to plug into my AVR/UPS (which is where it will be newly located once the rack is finished). Is it possible to relocate the inlet to an area in the unfinished room and then just get a blank plate to cover up the hole in the wall where the inlet was? I guess this is the most efficient way but I wanted to make sure I'm not missing something. Is it more complex than what I'm making it out to be?
Help please.

just move the inlet, connect the Romex to either the projector outlet direct or connect to the old line in the old electrical box and cover with a blank plate. Any box with the connections must be accessible by code.

If you can pull the Romex to the projector outlet you can bury the old box in the wall assuming the wire is disconnected.

So if I move the inlet box, let's say I just flip it around so it's facing the unfinished room where my components will be, I could do that and just put a blank plate on the other side that will face the viewers (which is under the screen)?

If you flip it and it is accessible on the new side you can patch the drywall on the old side and forget about it.

There's a new option from Midlite if you want more color choices and single-gang installation. It's about on par with the PowerBridge in pricing, maybe a bit more expensive depending on your configuration. UL listed and no modification required.

Décor Recessed Receptacle and Power Inlet Kit (http://69.89.238.106/products.aspx?catId=767)

Kit:
http://69.89.238.106/images/products/A46-W.jpg

Separates:
http://69.89.238.106/images/products/4642-2W.jpg http://69.89.238.106/images/products/4641-2W.jpg

http://69.89.238.106/images/products/industrycolor4C.jpg

I went with 2 black inlets and a single black recessed outlet for my setup.

Both the inlets will go in my equipment room, with 1 inlet wired to 2 standard outlets behind my screen wall for the subs and the other inlet wired to the black recessed outlet at the projector location.

I also bought one of these in black for the low voltage projector wiring:
http://69.89.238.106/images/products/1GWH-GR1.jpg

Though, I'm thinking maybe I should have gotten one of these:
http://69.89.238.106/images/products/2GWH-GR2.jpg

Oh well...

I got mine from MCM (http://mcmelectronics.com). They're just starting to stock these, so they were back-ordered for a few weeks, but I finally got everything today. They seem really well built. I can post pics if people are interested.

-John

Great BUMP, thread filled with info.

I went with MIDLITE 4642-W

http://www.amazon.com/MIDLITE-4642-W-Single-D%C3%A9cor-Recessed/dp/B002XDQAA6/ref=lh_ni_t


Thanks.