For those who were waiting for it, the new 4x1 switcher has just changed to instock status at monoprice.

http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=101&cp_id=10110&cs_id=1011002&p_id=4088&seq=1&format=2

I placed my order already and hopefully will have the unit by Monday to test with.

I've a Toshiba A2, PS3, and D* HD DVR unit and the A2 has ALWAYS given me fits with any other switcher used. Hopefully this will be "ring to rule them all".

I'll post back here once received.

Michael

For those who were waiting for it, the new 4x1 switcher has just changed to instock status at monoprice.

http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=101&cp_id=10110&cs_id=1011002&p_id=4088&seq=1&format=2

I placed my order already and hopefully will have the unit by Monday to test with.

I've a Toshiba A2, PS3, and D* HD DVR unit and the A2 has ALWAYS given me fits with any other switcher used. Hopefully this will be "ring to rule them all".

I'll post back here once received.

Michael

I just ordered one too...I have an A3 and had originally bought the "other" 4x1 switch on monoprice (#4066) but didn't realize it was an autoswitch...that means I couldn't switch to the A3 input until the A3 had finished booting (around 15 seconds)...it bothered me so much that I returned it to monoprice and ate the shipping cost...hopefully this one does the trick...

You'll have to wait until Tuesday......Monday a Holiday .I place a order in for 2. Just hope I don't have problems with my Harmony 880 and 688. Will I be able to leave ON my Directv HDDVR all the time....even while switching to My HD-DVD Player ? I need to have it on for recording.....

I just ordered one. It should arrive on Tuesday. I will report on it when I receive it. The remote should be no issue for the Harmony. You can always teach it the 4 codes if they are not the same as the previous unit. I will try the 4x1 codes that Harmony has for the previous 4x1 switcher first to see if they are the same. I don't know if the unit does autoswitching but it seems that most switches do it today.

Ah, true about Mon being a holiday.

The HDMI switch shouldn't affect your dvr at all as the inputs are from sat or the wall which is all that it cares about. I never turn my hd dvr off myself so, it's OUTput has no bearing whatsoever on the recorded INput

michael

Thankx for the Help......First time ordering from
MonoPrice.I must say they are SUPER FAST,I place order late into the evening and 1 hour later,I had a tracking number.

Monoprice along with a few other companies offer great support. Oppo and Blue-Jean are a few others that come to mind. They care about their customers that is the reason why they are successful.

I just ordered one. This looks like a great product, exactly what I've been looking for, without the high price that comes along with these things from other companies.

I just ordered one. It should arrive on Tuesday. I will report on it when I receive it. The remote should be no issue for the Harmony. You can always teach it the 4 codes if they are not the same as the previous unit. I will try the 4x1 codes that Harmony has for the previous 4x1 switcher first to see if they are the same. I don't know if the unit does autoswitching but it seems that most switches do it today.

I was told by a tech there that it is exactly like the rev 2.5 except for being 1.3b compliant...many with the rev 2.5 have said they are able to switch to non-powered inputs...that is the problem with the other 4x1 switch on monoprice in that it would only switch to powered inputs...

Im about to order one of these, I have been waiting for them to be in stock. I have a A2, HR21 and comcast moto DVR.

Just got mine...it works perfectly...this one does NOT have a blinking green light on the active input...that was irritating on my previous model...and this one will switch to any input whether the device is powered or not...doesn't take up much space either...

Just got mine...it works perfectly...this one does NOT have a blinking green light on the active input...that was irritating on my previous model...and this one will switch to any input whether the device is powered or not...doesn't take up much space either...

Great News, I am waiting for mine to arrive. Do you have harmony? if so was it any trouble getting it programmed?

Sweet, mine should be here today then.

I'm looking forward to this as I have but 1 HDMI input on my TV. This will be a welcome addition indeed if it handles the switching correctly (which it should given my research and 4 or so problem products before.)

michael

I also received mine today. It works great and they have changed the very bright LED's to ones that will not cause a issue. They have listened to our suggestions. I have tried this switch with A Panasonic BD30, Toshiba XA2, Oppo 981, & PS3 all going into a Onkyo 605 which outputs to my AE900. Everything works and the price is also right. I would give it 5 stars and a Best Buy award. I don't know of any other switch for under $40 that works as well. In fact I don't know any at twice the price. I also want to point out that it uses the same remote codes as the previous Monoprice switch so it will be very easy to set up a Harmony remote.

I suggest ordering one before they sell out. I am betting there will be a waiting list for this one.

I have also tested outputing Dolby True HD and DTSMA using bitstream with out a problem.

I received both of mine today( Monoprice HDX-401E),work great.This was my first order from Monoprice.I am really impress by the HDMI cables.They are well put together.The service was fast.I was surprize by the size of the switch box ( 7 x 3 x 3/4 ) .But that is good if you are looking to save space.

I have a Sony A/V STR-DE1075,but only 3 Opitcal input.Do they make a Audio Switch Box for Opitcal Cables ? I need more Inputs. Thankx

I received both of mine today( Monoprice HDX-401E),work great.This was my first order from Monoprice.I am really impress by the HDMI cables.They are well put together.The service was fast.I was surprize by the size of the switch box ( 7 x 3 x 3/4 ) .But that is good if you are looking to save space.

I have a Sony A/V STR-DE1075,but only 3 Opitcal input.Do they make a Audio Switch Box for Opitcal Cables ? I need more Inputs. Thankx

Monoprice also sells a optical splitter splitter and also an optical 3 way switch. Both should work great depending on what you need.

Received mine last night and it worked exactly as hoped. My A2, PS3, and HD DVR are all working flawlessly through it with no issue.

Programmed the Harmony and immediately stored the remote in the entertainment center too. No issues there either (with only 7 buttons to program.)

Two thumbs up!

Michael

Monoprice also sells a optical splitter splitter and also an optical 3 way switch. Both should work great depending on what you need.
Thankx.....just place another order for some more cables and 3 opitcal splitter.

Hi,
For those that received this, does it have autoswitching? Would like to hide the box out of sight if possible. TIA!

I believe it does, but I have an IR repeater and hooked it up before ever testing the auto-switching. Call Monoprice, their sales people are quite knowledgeable.

Michael

Nice.. good news... just ordered myself one too.. tired of my old unit where I cant switch to ports that have not powerd up yet... ie: xa2 :) Causes havoc with my harmony :)

I did not test the autoswitching. I use my Harmony for the switching so it is no issue for me. In the past I have often had issues with autoswitching so I never use the feature even it it has it. I would call Monoprice to be sure about autoswitching. I feel this is the best unit that Monoprice has put out and the price is great.

Do we have a verdict on the autoswitching on this yet?

JHunt13 - Which HDMI cables did you go with? They seem to have several options.

Go with the shortest cables that will work. MonoPrice's ones with the net jacket are really well made and look good also. Not to mention the best value you'll find.

Do we have a verdict on the autoswitching on this yet?

JHunt13 - Which HDMI cables did you go with? They seem to have several options.

I gave my verdict on the same day on Link #15 and #18 above.....thank again. I did place a order for 3 opitcal splitter,but was looking for something with power outlet.

The HDMI cables were 3ft,order some extras....can't beat the price.The Autoswitching work great with my HR-20

Ok, I gotta know, what is HDMI 1.3b and how is it different from 1.3a? I'm about to buy a new receiver and I really don't want to buy something that's outdated already. It's 1.3a so is 1.3b coming down the road? Thanks for any insight.

electron

The big difference between 1.3a and 1.3b is stricter compliance testing. 1.3b also has the ability for higher bandwith. This might be useful in the future but I know of no product that can use it at this time.

I was thinking about getting one of these switches because my TV only has one HDMI input. The only thing that stinks is not being able to calibrate the input to one source; i.e....have the TV calibrated for HD-DVD, XBOX and PS3 in the same input. Can anyone comment on this?

I just got done hooking mine up (HDX-401E), and it is not working correctly. Here is what I have hooked up to the switch:

-Motorola DCH3416 cable box
-Xbox 360 Elite
-Panasonic BD30
-Philips DVDR 3475
-All HDMI cables being used are the Monoprice "HDMI 1.3a Category 2 Certified Cable 28AWG - 6ft w/Ferrite Cores (Gold Plated) - BLACK"

I have the output on the Monoprice HDX-401E going to the HDMI 1 port on my Panasonic TH-42PZ700U.

The only things that work are the Motorola DCH3416 and my Xbox360. The blu ray player and the DVD recorder DO NOT WORK. No video or audio to the TV when connected via the HDMI switch.

I am very disappointed. I'll try calling Monoprice for support, but I'll probably end up returning it.

SkortchGT, check all your cables. You could have a bad cable or the switch could be bad. I would try the output cable first. I have the BD30 and it works great with the switch that is why I think your problem may be somewhere else. I do trial and error tests and try different inputs.

HDMI requires 19 connections and if the cables don't seat you will have an issue. Try the BD30 in the input that you are using for the Xbox 360 and see if it works first. Use the same cable you are using for the Xbox 360. If it works try using that same cable into one of the inputs that you are having an issue with. If it works it might be the cable. If it does not it could be the switch. Make sure that the remote has switched to the input you are using. I would also try each unit directly into you TV with the same cable that is going to the switch. Be sure your BD 30 & other player is set to HDMI output for both picture and sound. Please report back.

I picked up my switch today. I have a Toshiba A30, Xbox360, cable box, and PS3 hooked up to it ony my XBR4. I'm also using the same HDMI 1.3a cable for all connections. Everything works great except the connection with my PS3. I get sparkles when switching to the PS3. I tried all 4 ports with just the PS3 plugged in to each and still all sparkles. Is there a problem with the combination with the switch, PS3, and my tv?

Did you try a different cable?

I just ordered this switch plus two of their HDMI cables. Hopefully I'll get a good one!

Did you try a different cable?

Tried it with other cables and still get the sparkles/snow effect.

How long is the run from the switch to your set? I just check my system again with the PS3
and I have no sparkles and I tested against a black scene. I am using this switcher with Monoprice 6' cables going into a Onkyo 605 receiver which outputs to a Panasonic AE900 projector using a 25' Monoprice cable. I am wondering if there is a loose connection somewhere. I would also try going directly to the set using the same cable to see if you still have the problem. Another thing to try is a different output cable from the switch to the set. Be sure that all cables are seated properly. I am sure you have tried this but it would not hurt to try going directly to the set again with the PS3 to see if you still have a problem.

How long is the run from the switch to your set? I just check my system again with the PS3
and I have no sparkles and I tested against a black scene. I am using this switcher with Monoprice 6' cables going into a Onkyo 605 receiver which outputs to a Panasonic AE900 projector using a 25' Monoprice cable. I am wondering if there is a loose connection somewhere. I would also try going directly to the set using the same cable to see if you still have the problem. Another thing to try is a different output cable from the switch to the set. Be sure that all cables are seated properly. I am sure you have tried this but it would not hurt to try going directly to the set again with the PS3 to see if you still have a problem.

I appreciate the help rwestley. All the HDMI cables I use are 6ft. When I plug the PS3 directly to the set, no problems whatsoever. Only issue is when I run it through the switch. I will probably go back to monoprice and exchange the switch. Maybe perhaps it is faulty but not really sure since everything else connected to it works fine.

rwestley - I called Monoprice yesterday and got an RMA. When I return this switch I'll order a new one.

I am pretty sure the switch I have is bad. I tried moving the connections around, tried different cables, and hooked up the equipment to the TV directly using both my old HDMI cables and the ones I ordered from monoprice. Everything works fine when hooked up directly to the TV regardless of the cables used. When it is ran through the switch, the BD30 and the Philips DVDR just don't work for some reason. I tried switching the inputs used and everything, swapped cables, etc etc..

No big deal though. I'll be ordering another one and returning this one. I'm not sure if I should order the same model or go with something different, like their 5X1 switch.

It must be a bad switch as I've a ps3 and it works fine through the new switcher. Bummer though for the delay and return. now, I just need to get my pre/pro back from an RMA (should be a week from Mon / Tues) then my entertainment center will be back to normal and working as planned :)

michael

Sorry that a few of the switches might be bad. Probably solder connections or chips. Monoprice will replace the switch with no problem I went back and tested everything on my system again and everything including the BD30, Oppo 981, Toshiba XA2, & PS3 work fine through the new Monoprice switch.

Sorry that a few of the switches might be bad. Probably solder connections or chips. Monoprice will replace the switch with no problem I went back and tested everything on my system again and everything including the BD30, Oppo 981, Toshiba XA2, & PS3 work fine through the new Monoprice switch.

What tv do you have this all hooked up to? It just seems strange that I dont have this sparkle issues with the switch other than the PS3. I also have a 2x1 switch I've had for awhile (also from monoprice) and tested it with the PS3 and it works flawlessly.

I purchased the following item from Mono price:

4X1 Enhanced 1.3b Certified HDMI Switch with built-in Equalizer and Remote (REV.3.0), item #4088.

Received it today, was hoping for the holy grail of switches.

I have a Toshiba HDA2 1080i HDDVD player, Motorola DCT/HDDVR cable box (DCT6412), and very soon a PS3 for Bly ray play back. I have the Samsung 50" DLP TV often referred to as the "kirk" model.

THe Kirk model only has 1 HDMI in. I have been using the HDMI in for the HDDVD and a DVI/HDMI adapter for cable..but when the PS3 shows up, it will need to have a split HDMI, so that's why I got the monoprice.

Anyway, set it all up:
Cable box gives me either a HDCP error or a green screen when that input is selected.
HDDVD gives me no picture at all.

I have multiple HDMI cables so I tried rotating them in and out - ie new cable with just the cable box going into teh Monoprice....no dice, replaced the HDMI output cable to the Tv, no dice, replaced it with a monster HDMI cable, still no dice.

I'm wondering if the samsung TV can't accept the signal from the monoprice unit at all or what?

Major bummer. I have a support email into monoprice. I too was hoping this would fix probelms from the original 2x1 switch I had from them, which gave me the same problems.

Would love support/advice from the group if I"m doing something wrong. I even tried putting the monoprice box into the hdmi/dvi adapter and still the same issues.

UPDATE: Well I messed around with my PS3 and noticed a couple things. The sparkles show up when just on the XMB or when I play ridge racer 7. When I play any other PS3 games or BD movies, the sparkles go away. Anyone have any ideas why that is?

UPDATE: Well I messed around with my PS3 and noticed a couple things. The sparkles show up when just on the XMB or when I play ridge racer 7. When I play any other PS3 games or BD movies, the sparkles go away. Anyone have any ideas why that is?

Sorry for asking.....but what are sparkles in VIDEO WORLD ?

EL__Scorcho, check your settings on the Samsung and make tests with each component directly first to make sure that each works with the Samsung. Try a different output cable from the switcher to the TV and use the other cables that work directly to go to the box. It seems that you are having handshake issues or that you are getting no signal going through the switcher for some reason. Ranzo glad you seem to have discovered what the problem is. I would check you PS3 settings and go throught the resolution output test on your PS3 setup.

It's possible you have the RR game set to a resolution your TV can't handle and the PS3 isn't downscaling appropriately. I force my PS3 to 1080i for that very reason.

I've sparkles when the game load screen comes up as the 720p games are loading, but then they're gone and all is well. This is normal behavior though.

michael

No love for me...bought the switch and it doesn't work with my Comcast Motorola DCT 3416. Works fine with my DVD player on any port. I've switched cables, ports, power on order, etc. Still getting handshake problem with the DCT 3416 (picture for a few seconds, then green screen). When connected directly to my PJ, the Comcast box works fine. Guess I'm going to have to RMA it.

I just shipped mine back today. I have a new one (same model) scheduled to be delivered this Friday, 2/1/08. I'll hook the new one up when it gets here and report back. I really hope everything works. It would be great to be able to hook all my stuff up via HDMI.

It seems that the problems reported are from cable boxes. It sounds like handshake issues. Many have reported similar issues even without the switch. For those with the problem I would try the following.

1. Turn everyting off and than turn on the TV set last to see if you get a handshake.
2 Check to see that the resolution output in your cable box is correct
3. Do a hard reboot of your cablebox with everything hooked up. (This worked for me
once when I got those error messages.) You might want to try doing this first.

rwestley - My problem is definitely my specific Moto model STB. I'm glad the power cycle process works for your situation. But even if it successfully created the handshake with my equipment it wouldn't work for me (BTW - I've tried that specific power on sequence and still no handshake).

I'm not going to power cycle my projector just to change the HDMI input at the switch. If the HDMI spec is written such that you should power on everything in the chain in this particular order then shame on me for expecting otherwise. But I'm not going to accelerate the death of my bulb by power cycling every time I want to switch sources as a workaround. (and to watch TV I have to do a hard reboot of my cable box, losing all the guide info?)

So, if the Monoprice switch won't work for me with my equipment (even though it is most likely the fault of the Comcast box) I'll try to find a switch that will. Of course, I'll probably have to pay a lot more. Just wish this one worked for me...:(

It may not be possible to find a switch that will work if there is a sequence to the handshake issue. The biggest problem with HDMI is that many companies products are not made to spec. Even if the switch is certified there can be other issues. Certain Motorola boxes have had issues with the handshake. Call your cable company and ask for the newest model. I have also found that some of the boxes have bad HDMI ports.

I just hooked this switch up today, my Scientific Atlantic Cable Box works fine, but when I switch to my Xbox 360 Elite, I get the green sparkles and my projector (Infocus IN82) Freaks out. This is only while on the 360 dashboard, and when navigating blades. I didn't want to fire up a game and risk damaging anything. I did notice that if I set the Display in the Elite to 1080i, the artifacts go away. Plugging in directly works perfectly with the elite though.

I also tried moving some cables around to no avail. Also tried a bunch of different ports on the switch. Tried a 3ft cable and a 6 foot cable. I was reading around where someone said that a crappy cable could cause this issue, but I find it hard to believe it works with the cable box or going direct. I also made sure more than once that the cable was nice and snug in there.

Sounds similar to another posters issues with certain items on his PS3. Any thoughts before I call monoprice?

I have tried the Xbox and the PS3 with no problems using this switch. If you are seeing the green sparkles I am betting that one of the 19 connectors is not making a good contact. I would try to reseat all the cables to see if that solves the problem. I would also check the resolution output on the XBox. You might want to reset it and try it again. I don't know think that the Infocus accepts 1080p and you might have the output of the Elite set to 1080p try it at different resolutions like 720p and 1080i.

Hahhaaah for $5000, this 1080p Projector better accept 1080p!

I did find another HDMI cable I had laying around and swapped that out. It seems that all my cables except 1, are capable of transmitting 1080i perfectly. But many cables give me green sparkles at 1080p on the Elite.

So it seems that cables do play a role here. I need to order some more stuff from monoprice anyway, so I may as well order 4 little 6 footer HDMIs.

Thanks though this post helped me out. Good luck to others having issues.

Sorry, I got your projector mixed up with lower priced model. You might want to try a few port savers they make for a snug connection. I have been playing around with HDMI since day one and all kinds of issues can develop. I have noticed that most concern the bad design of the internal connectors. As you know there are 19 connections used for HDMi and even one loose connection can cause havoc. I have spend hours often to get things right. I do find that the port savers have helped. I have not tried the angle port savers yet but I plan to get a few when I place my next Monoprice order. I would also suggest that you order 6 6' cables to get the lower price.
It is always good to have a few extras around. I have given away many to friends. I hate to see people ripped off for expensive cables. Good luck in resolving your issues.

Just got mine today w/3 hdmi cables. Hooked everything up and the remote wont work (batts are okay). Emailed for rma number. Its a nice heavy unit. Wish it would have worked.

Got mine today along with an HDMI cable (6' with ferrite cores). Hooked up my devices and everything works beautifully! Reprogrammed my Harmony for the switch and that, too, worked flawlessly. I'm lucky (so far) to have gotten a good unit. I will give it some time tonight and see how everything goes. Also, the cable seemed like a nice quality piece, I can't believe it was only $5 or so.

Only thing I've noticed so far is that there is a short (~1 second) delay between switching inputs when I switch from DVD to DVR. It looks like the DVR takes a second to "recognize" the splitter and start sending the signal, or something along that line. Other than the delay the picture quality is as good as when it was hooked directly to the TV.

My devices, for anyone who cares:
- Sony Bravia KDL-40V2500
- Motorola DCT-6416 III DVR
- Samsung DVD-1080P7

The small delay that often takes place when switching inputs is the time it takes for the hdcp handshake. Even if you run direct there is often a time lag for the handshake to take place. Having used HDMI since day one I have often found that many issues can and will develop. Be very careful with the connections and seating of the cables. As others have said they want you to buy high priced cables but put poor internal connectors on the equipment. In the area in which I live they use the SA cable box. I have hooked up many units for my friends and in several cases I discovered that the connectors on the SA box were loose and in poor condition. I told my friends to check ask for a brand new SA box and the problem was resolved. Before blaming the switch or the cable do trial and errror checks. I know HDMI can be frustrating because of the sloppy implementation that has been forced on us.

I received mine (along with a few HDMI cables) yesterday and everything works fine. I have an HTPC and a HD-A3 feeding the box which feeds a Sony RPTV.

The only question I have is that I don't see evidence that autoswitching works.
Anyone find out otherwise?
Lack of autoswitching isn't the end of the world but I have a temporary setup that requires tucking the switch out of sight.


Mitch

I purchased the switch and I think it's completely DOA. Lights are on it, but no matter the input, I get a black screen.

I have 6 HDMI cables, I tried each one individually...tried putting the toshiba on there by itself (the hddvd player)...got a black screen. tried putting the PS3 on tehre by itself ...balck screen....

Tried putting it on different inputs, still a problem. Checked the TV HDMI input..even tried putting it on DVI using a dVi/hdmi converter. Same problem.

I gave up and RMA'd it. The funny thing is that I went down to my office and got my Monoprice 2 HDMI switch (manual push button) and brought it upstairs to my HT setup and it worked fine -- of course I only can use it for 2 HDMI units, the ps3 and the hddvd, and I left teh cable box on DVi/hdmi.

So could it be the power to the 4 in 1 box?

Some time ago I had purchased the 3x1 HDMI switch and had to RMA that too as it had the same issues.....

Completely stumped as to why the 2x1 manual non-electric switch works fine but nothing else does. I can push the button i guess. Just annoying.

Well I got my second switch in the mail yesterday, and it still doesn't work. I'll be returning this one also. I'm not sure what model to get now. I really need an HDMI switch. My equipment is as follows:

-Motorola DCH3416 cable box
-Xbox 360 Elite
-Panasonic BD30
-Philips DVDR 3475
-Panasonic TH-42PZ700U 42in plasma TV

The only things that work through the HDMI switch are is the Motorola cable box and the XBOX. The blu ray player and the DVDR still don't work when connected through the switch. I tried different ports, different cables, powered everything off, powered everything on, the works. Everything works when connected to the TV's HDMI ports, however when routed through the switch, the blu ray player and the Philips DVDR just won't work.

I'm stumped.

I doubt if another switch will work for you. It sounds lik something is wrong somewhere. I have the same switch and I have a Bd 30 and it works great. Check the settings on your BD30 and XBox. I would hook them up using a video cable first if you are getting no signal through HDMI and check the settings to make sure you are using HDMI output from the BD30. I would also check the output resolutions that you have set on the BD 30 & the Xbox 360 I would also check the input resolutions that you have set on the Panasonic TV. I really doubt it is the switch. I have set up many systems and I have discovered often that one little error can casue havoc.

I doubt if another switch will work for you. It sounds lik something is wrong somewhere. I have the same switch and I have a Bd 30 and it works great. Check the settings on your BD30 and XBox. I would hook them up using a video cable first if you are getting no signal through HDMI and check the settings to make sure you are using HDMI output from the BD30. I would also check the output resolutions that you have set on the BD 30 & the Xbox 360 I would also check the input resolutions that you have set on the Panasonic TV. I really doubt it is the switch. I have set up many systems and I have discovered often that one little error can casue havoc.

I actually tried this last night. Hooked up the BD30 to the TV via HDMI to make sure it worked (i had this & the xbox connected to the TV via HDMI before I got the switch). Then I hooked up the BD30 to the switch by itself, then to the TV. Still doesn't work. I get an error message that reads "U73" on the front of the BD player when connected through the switch. I then hooked the BD player back up to the TV and checked the settings. I tried it on automatic, then selected the "1080p" option and tried them both on the switch. Just doesn't work for some reason.

I know it is very frustrating. I have experience all kinds of HDMI issues in the past. The U73 is a handshake error message. I am sure you have tried different cables with no success. You might want to try different ports on the switch. I would try one more thing if you have not done this already. Try the the exact same inputs on your tv that worked with the BD30 from the output of the switch. I would also try to seat and unseat the cable before you give up.

I know it is very frustrating. I have experience all kinds of HDMI issues in the past. The U73 is a handshake error message. I am sure you have tried different cables with no success. You might want to try different ports on the switch. I would try one more thing if you have not done this already. Try the the exact same inputs on your tv that worked with the BD30 from the output of the switch. I would also try to seat and unseat the cable before you give up.

Thanks for the help. I tried this last night; switched ports, re-seated cables, swapped cables, used the same input on the TV, used the second HDMI input on the TV, the works. I'll give it another shot tonight though. I really have patience when it comes to electronics and am pretty home theater savvy also. Just stinks that i've been having bad luck. I noticed that this switch (as well as the other) sounds like there is stuff rattling around inside when it is barely shaken. Not sure if this is normal or not since i've never taken apart an HDMI switch before.

I have a Westinghouse 47w1 (1080p) and I hook up a cable box DCH6416, an Xbox 360 Premium HDMI, and soon a PS3. The cable box works flawlessly in all configurations, however, the Xbox 360 will only work in the 3 and 4 slot and has green sparkles when set to 1080p but looks fine when set lower. I have tried all the cables singularly into the tv and I don't get the sparkles in 1080p. Is this most likely a problem with the switcher not being able to display just 1080p? What would cause 1080i and not 1080p to work within the switcher? Should I RMA it and try a new one? Thanks ahead of time.

I ordered this a couple of weeks ago and have been using it ever since with:

Sources:
SA8300HD Cable Box
Sony Playstation 3
HTPC

Display:
Mitsubishi HC4900

As others have mentioned, programming this into a Harmony remote is a very easy and everything is working perfectly.

Xbox 360
PS3
AppleTV
Moto 3416 DVR
Macbook Pro

all work flawlessly with the switch (though not at the same time :)) I keep the macbook in my 2nd HDMI port on my TV and use the switch for the other. TV is a 1080p Panny pz77u Plasma, everything controlled with my Harmony One remote. Odd to see that a poster with the 700u can't get many similar components working.

With 5 HDMI devices already, I might invest in a second one to bring my ports up to 8, but that would probably confuse the hell out of the harmony one...but it could work.

4X1 Enhanced 1.3b Certified HDMI Switch with built-in Equalizer and Remote (REV.3.0)

just got mine today.... I am going to return it because it does not work.

by the way.... I am not the only person having problems with this switch.

I would stay far away from this switch unless you plan on never upgrading your HT because you take the risk of it not working for new equipment.

Comcast Cable Box.... no luck!

Samsung Blu Ray Player.... no luck!

what a waste of time.

Monoprice seems like a good company, responsive to customer inquiries, and they have excellent return policies. Unfortunately SOME of their HDMI switchers are unreliable. Here's my experience.
System:
1. Sharp BD-HP20u Blu-Ray DVD
2. Toshiba HD-D3 HD-DVD
3. DirecTV HR21-700 HD-DVR
4. DirecTV H10-250 HD-DVR
5. DISPLAY: Sim2 HT-300+ DLP Projector

I've tried two different HDMI switchers from Monoprice. The first, the 4x2 switcher, randomly lost the HDMI handshake. After a week, I was forced to return it.

My 2nd attempt was with the 5x1 switcher. Similar problems would occur, including loop through feedback from one source component to another! I normally leave my DirecTV boxes "on", and it appears that the switcher becomes horribly confused by this. On both units, swapping cables and trying different input configurations did not help. In fact, it seemed to make things worse! All source units work fine when plugged directly into the Display.

Yesterday I was forced to remove the 5x1 and request an RMA. I then hooked up my 3x1 Oppo switcher. Though I only can run my two DVD players and 1 D-TV box, this device works perfectly. Granted, the Oppo cost $100 while the Monoprice was $40. I guess you get what you pay for. Still, I'd really like a 4x1.

Does anyone know where I can get some short HDMI cables? Monoprice is out of everything under 6'. They do have some 28AWG short cables, but I don't know how much I could trust those.

Monoprice seems like a good company, responsive to customer inquiries, and they have excellent return policies. Unfortunately SOME of their HDMI switchers are unreliable. Here's my experience.
System:
1. Sharp BD-HP20u Blu-Ray DVD
2. Toshiba HD-D3 HD-DVD
3. DirecTV HR21-700 HD-DVR
4. DirecTV H10-250 HD-DVR
5. DISPLAY: Sim2 HT-300+ DLP Projector

I've tried two different HDMI switchers from Monoprice. The first, the 4x2 switcher, randomly lost the HDMI handshake. After a week, I was forced to return it.

My 2nd attempt was with the 5x1 switcher. Similar problems would occur, including loop through feedback from one source component to another! I normally leave my DirecTV boxes "on", and it appears that the switcher becomes horribly confused by this. On both units, swapping cables and trying different input configurations did not help. In fact, it seemed to make things worse! All source units work fine when plugged directly into the Display.

Yesterday I was forced to remove the 5x1 and request an RMA. I then hooked up my 3x1 Oppo switcher. Though I only can run my two DVD players and 1 D-TV box, this device works perfectly. Granted, the Oppo cost $100 while the Monoprice was $40. I guess you get what you pay for. Still, I'd really like a 4x1.

Does your screen just got black, and then video/sound come back about 1-2 seconds? I got this switch last week as well and when I play my 360 it was doing that. I checked the cables and it didn't do it for a bit. Later on it started to do that again.

yes.... but if they send you a defective product they rip you off by making you pay for all the shipping!

so you first waste your time getting the product... then when you get it you have to waste more time working to pay for the money it cost to ship BOTH WAYS! I will tell you... if they do not pay for my return shipping.... they will wish they never had the rip off policy!

Monoprice seems like a good company, responsive to customer inquiries, and they have excellent return policies. Unfortunately SOME of their HDMI switchers are unreliable. Here's my experience.
System:
1. Sharp BD-HP20u Blu-Ray DVD
2. Toshiba HD-D3 HD-DVD
3. DirecTV HR21-700 HD-DVR
4. DirecTV H10-250 HD-DVR
5. DISPLAY: Sim2 HT-300+ DLP Projector

I've tried two different HDMI switchers from Monoprice. The first, the 4x2 switcher, randomly lost the HDMI handshake. After a week, I was forced to return it.

My 2nd attempt was with the 5x1 switcher. Similar problems would occur, including loop through feedback from one source component to another! I normally leave my DirecTV boxes "on", and it appears that the switcher becomes horribly confused by this. On both units, swapping cables and trying different input configurations did not help. In fact, it seemed to make things worse! All source units work fine when plugged directly into the Display.

Yesterday I was forced to remove the 5x1 and request an RMA. I then hooked up my 3x1 Oppo switcher. Though I only can run my two DVD players and 1 D-TV box, this device works perfectly. Granted, the Oppo cost $100 while the Monoprice was $40. I guess you get what you pay for. Still, I'd really like a 4x1.

yes.... but if they send you a defective product they rip you off by making you pay for all the shipping!

so you first waste your time getting the product... then when you get it you have to waste more time working to pay for the money it cost to ship BOTH WAYS! I will tell you... if they do not pay for my return shipping.... they will wish they never had the rip off policy!

+1

they should pay for return shipping...

Add one more dissatisfied customer to the list.
Mine worked with the Computer and the Oppo DVD but not the PS3 at all.
I had been satisfied with Monoprice up till now, but it took a week and 2 rounds of emails before they sent me an RMA.
It cost me $9 to ship it back (The post office refused to do a cheaper rate since it was in a Priority Flat Rate Box) for a total of 1/2 the price of the switch lost on shipping for something they probably knew was defective and should have never sold.
I will be much more careful and read threads here before I buy from Monoprice again.

I bought a 4X1 monoprice switch and it kinda works. You get what you pay for in this case

I just noticed that the way Monoprice lists User reviews is Best review first, Worst last, not by date like it should be, so even with a 78% (and falling) rating for this switch they always show great reviews first, giving unwary buyers the impression "All is fine" with this product unless they look at reviews at the end.

Well I just ordered one as lately everything I've bought is HDMI or has it included as a option. I only have 2 inputs on my TV and about 4 devices now so it's getting hard to decide which ones get HDMI and which get another input.
I hope mine works OK for me after reading all this after I ordered it:eek:

I am wondering what display the people with issues are sending the signal to. I am using the switch with no issues. I had A Toshiba XA2, A Panasonic BD30, A SA cable box and a PS3. I am going to a Onkyo 605 to a Panasonic Ae900 projector. I think that some may be having handshake issues caused by other equipment they own. There have been some many issues with HDMI since day one and we often blame the new addition. I would bet that the issue is with the handshake sequence. Sometimes the set has to be on first in other cases the other component has to be on first. It is possible that during the switching process the link is broken and that is were the problem is. It may not be possible to use any switch in some cases. Blame it on the poor design of HDCP/HDMI. It would be interesting to see which display devices have the biggest issues. I know Samsung and Sanyo had many issues in the past. Panasonic has had fewer issues. I know it is frustrating and it is easy to blame Monoprice but I would guess that it is something else since many have had no problem with the switch.

There is no perfect solution at this time. What is needed is a better certification of all HDMI equipment. Even if the switch is certified it does not mean that other components in the chain will be. In over 3 years of working with HDMI/HDCP I have discovered that the biggest problem is often in the display device. That is not to say that I have not experienced other issues. When SA came out with there first cable box I could not get the HDCP handshake. They have resolved the issue with firmware updates. The same is true for Toshiba with their players and other manufactures. I just read last week that Panasonic in their latest firmeware update for their Blu-Ray BD 30 made a change to fix a issue with Samsung displays. As one can see there are no easy answers. One must remember that the people who post have issues. Most who have tried and are using this switch have had good luck. We see many Monoprice posts because they sell tons of switches. Regarding their return policy, They can not be responible for HDMI/HDCP issues caused by other links. They do take the units back with no question. I don't understand the $9 return shipping. You could use a USPS flat rate priority envelope or a small box and the shipping would be only $4.50. If one reads the many other threads including the one on the Marantz for $350 you will see that there are all kinds of issues with handshakes in all price ranges

I love Monoprice, I always recommend them to friends.

I'm considering buying an HDX-401E.

On the remote are there 4 dedicated buttons, one for each channel, or are you forced to use a pair of channel up/down buttons?

...I think that some may be having handshake issues caused by other equipment they own.
Yes, possibly.


...It may not be possible to use any switch in some cases.
True, but many (not all) have changed their switch and the problems disappeared.



...When SA came out with there first cable box I could not get the HDCP handshake. They have resolved the issue with firmware updates.
This is my problem - the switch works fine with my Toshiba player, but not with my Moto DCT3416I STB. Some on that box's thread hint that a firmware fix could be the solution. Too bad Comcast won't release the newest firmware in my area.

...They can not be responible for HDMI/HDCP issues caused by other links.
I think it is a lot more complex than that.


What we are talking about here is more of a quality control issue. Sure there are a lot of people who use this switch without any issues. But, when the manufacturer responds to a request for an RMA with instructions to try each HDMI input on the device to see if using a different input solves your handshake problem, that indicates to me that the device they shipped is not 100% compatible on all ports. All the inputs should work the same, right? But I've seen some people report that indeed, changing the input port solved their problem.

While my problem is definitely the Moto STB, I think it is possible that the problems others are experiencing are more likely due to the switch as opposed to their other equipment.

And lastly, yes - damn HDCP! :mad:

Question to anyone that owns one of these HDX-401E:

Are you forced to use a pair of channel up/down buttons on the remote to select the input or does the remote have 4 dedicated buttons, one for each channel. The picture makes it look like they have both ways but it's not clear. Want to know before I buy. Feedback would be appreciated. :)

I agree -damn HDCP. It has caused hours of pain for many since day one. I just noticed someting yesterday when I switched inputs with my 4x1 Monoprice switch that might help some. When I first turned my system on I had no picture. I just hit the input again and the handshake worked. It makes me think that the problem is that using a switch breaks the sequence of the handshake. Different equipment seems to have different sequences to the handshake and that is why hitting the input on the switch probably worked. I have tried all my equipment on all inputs and everything works. I would also check that the cables are secure. Another bad HDMI design. It is amazing that they put 19 connectors in this small cable and designed such an insecure connection. Any weight on the input can cause the cable to become loose. I know how
frustrating it can be having spent countless hours dealing with HDMI/HDCP issues in the past.

I also don't think it is a quality control issue with the switches but a problem with poor implementation of the HDCP standard by many manufactures. Even if the Monoprice 4x1 switch is 3.1 certified it can not help with problems caused by other equipment. I go back to the different ways companies make the hdcp handshake. Take a look at the thread on satellite/cable receivers to see the problems some are having even without a switch. The key is to get the cable companies to upgrade their firmware. I live on Long Island and use Cablevision and they have been very good about updating firmware. In fact, Cisco, SA people work with them in their
main office with these issues.

It is amazing that they put 19 connectors in this small cable and designed such an insecure connection.

Quite frankly the HDMI connector should have been optical. It's crazy having 19 connections. Not in the least bit user friendly.

I also don't think it is a quality control issue with the switches but a problem with poor implementation of the HDCP standard by many manufactures. Even if the Monoprice 4x1 switch is 3.1 certified it can not help with problems caused by other equipment.

So, why then does Monoprice respond to the request for an RMA with a set of questions that include trying your device on each of the different ports on their switch? If the issue was that a connector hadn't seated properly, and it was a result of a faulty cable or human error, then the port changing should not be the solution. But, as noted before, many folks - including Monoprice - have found that sometimes a device won't work with one (or more) of the ports on this Monoprice switch. Call me stupid, but that is a pretty clear indication that there is a known level of variance in quality between ports on the switch.

The reason why Monoprices respons as it does is there are so many issues that can cause HDMI isssues including a faulty cable, human error or the sequence of the handshake. I really don't think it is the switch as I have been involved with HDMI/HDCP issues since day one. The problem is that putting anyting in the chain sometimes can cause issues. I have spent countless hours resolving HDCP issues and the causes can be many. Usually I have found it not to be the switch. I am luck in that I am using the 4x1 1.3 Monoprice switch with A PS3, A Toshiba XA2, an Oppo 981, & A Panasonic BD30 going to a Onkyo 605 going to A Panasonic AE900 with no issue. If I don't get a handshake I hit the remote control on the switch and change inputs it usually works and does the handshake.

FYI....Recieved the Monoprice HDZ-401E 4x1 hdmi switcher. Hooked it up and have no problems. I have it hooked to:

LG 50" Plasma
Motorola DCT6412 III Comcast HD/DVR box (input 1)
Panasonic DMP-BD30 Blu-ray (input 3)

Inputs were the 1st ones I tried. They worked, so I left it alone. So far so good......

Just a suggestion for those who might be having some issues. Try hitting the input on the remote a few times. The problem that some are having is for the HDCP handshake to take place. This can be caused by may things other than the switch including the sequence in which you start each unit. I have lost the handshake only a few times and by hitting the input number on the remote I have always been able to restore it. This happens with other switches I have tried as well.

Mine showed up Thursday and I wired it all up with a couple generic HDMI's and 3 ferrite core Generic 1.3a Cables and all my equipment works just fine with it :D
I have a Toshiba 34hfx84 TV, Toshiba A2 Hd player, Panasonic BDP-10a BD player, Denon 757 DVD-Audio/SACD player, and a Philips 375h dvd recorder/Hard drive unit that's hooked up by itself to the second input on my TV.
It does take a second to sync up every time I change live inputs and I think once it lost one, all I had to do was cycle power and it was good again.
I'd say either those having problems have bad cables or other issues with a bad unit as well.
It really is a nicely built compact unit and I still have one input left for the next toy. Audio and everything seem to work fine directly into my TV, My older Onkyo 777 doesn't have any HDMI inputs.

Just a suggestion for those who might be having some issues. Try hitting the input on the remote a few times. The problem that some are having is for the HDCP handshake to take place. This can be caused by may things other than the switch including the sequence in which you start each unit. I have lost the handshake only a few times and by hitting the input number on the remote I have always been able to restore it. This happens with other switches I have tried as well.


I think we appreciate your suggestions and eagerness to help, but that doesn't change the fact that there are problems with this switch (and other Monoprice switches). Sure, the price is great, but they shouldn't be selling a switch and claiming that it will work without many hours of trial and error. Several of their switches should be sold as switches with the disclaimer that this switch may not work as intended. I have the 4x2 switch and I have spent a good 8 hours trying to figure out how to get Dolby Digital out of my xbox 360 consistently. I have tried everything and I still can't figure out why sometimes it only sends 2 channel PCM, even with no other source or display units connected to it. The point is, these switches hae a high failure rate and the only reason people are still buying them is that the price is low enough to take a risk on it.

My original HDMI switch from Monoprice (2786 2X1 Manual HDMI Switch - Push Button Type) Works fine between the PS3 and and my video system. The 4x1 did not, They were out of stock in January and I was waiting for a new batch to come in, I wonder if there were problems with the last batch they sold, I see a lot of good reviews from previous purchases, but most of the recent reviews show problems.

I must disagree, The problem often is not with the switch but with the whole implementation of HDMI/HDCP. If you read the other threads you will see issues with all switches. It is not that the switch may not work as intended it is the problem with everything working together with the hdcp handshake. I have tried the Xbox 360, the PS3 a Toshiba XA2, A Panasonic BD30 and a Oppo player with this switch and it works for me. I think it is easy to blame the switch when there are so many issues that can cause problems. I have seen many issues with Gefen and even the new Oppo switch. The problem is that all companies have not followed the HDMI/HDCP specs and putting a switch into the chain can cause issues for some. I understand your frustration but the blame should be put on the HDMI/HDCP association and the manufactures of sets and other equipment. The biggest issues for me is the design of the cable and port with 19 connectors and no way to secure them. If even one connection does not make contact nothing will work. I have used over 10 with no failures. I have often found other issues such as loose cables or sets that must be linked in a special sequence. It is very easy to blame one component when one adds it to the chain. In reality it could be something else.

I have had issues with HDMI/HDCP since day one and I understand the frustration. Do a search on this or other threads on the fourm and you will see all kinds of issues. Many people blamed Panasonic when the BD30 caused flashes with several Samsung sets. In fact it was Samsung's problem but Panasonic did develop a work around. A early projector with HDMI the Sanyo Z2 never really got the HDCP issues resolved. Sanyo washed their hands of the problem These are just two examples. I could go on and on.

DRM and HDCP has and always will be a less than optimum solution. That is why so many professional installers refuse to use it on top jobs.

On an end not I feel your pain having spent countless hours trying to resolve HDMI/HDCP issues in the past. I am keeping my fingers crossed that everyting will continue to work.

There is one thing you might want to try to see if another switch will work. Use the same setup and try a different brand switch with not other changes.

Good luck.

Off topic a bit...
I am wary to spend another dollar on "cutting edge" AV stuff.
The Monoprice switch was cheap and not much of a loss, but 2 other items on my list are not cheap and by posts on this board show problems that keep me from buying.
I am waiting for the Panasonic BD50 to come out, but it may have similar LFE bugs like the BD30 (They say a fix is in the works) I would also love to lay down $700 for an Onkyo 805 to complete my HT but I use a CRT projector and there is a lot of talk of lip sync problems on the 805 on CRT projectors.
Whether it be Onkyo, Panasonic, Monoprice or whoever; I don't want to spend my hard earned money to be a hardware Beta tester.

The Bd 30 LFE bugs have been fixed. You might also want to wait for the new Onkyo receivers due out during the summer. They will have more HDMI inputs. Regarding being a beta tester. The problem is that there are so many combinations and it becomes very difficult to get things to work together in all cases. The Onkyo has adjustment for lip Sync and that should solve your problem. I don't think you really need to waith for the BD50 because the Onkyo will do the decoding for you and could save you a few dollars. I own a BD30 and with the release of firmware 106 the LFE bug has been fixed and the player works great. The only issue I have is that a few disks are not perfect. The argument reminds me of those who favor the PC and those who favor the Mac. The Mac probably has fewer issues because it uses only Apple software and parts designed by them. The Windows operating system must work with all kinds of different designs. I think of Windows when I think of the problems with HDCP. If I only used Panasonic equipment with their HDCP one would probably have few handshake issues. The issues develop when one tries to link one brand with another. This should not happen but some companies have not followed the HDMI/HDCP specs.

Any new news on this switch? From reading all of the posts, it sounds like I'm S.O.L. here with a Panny plasma, a Comcast Motorola HDDVR box, and a PS3.

Well mine still works just fine with a Toshiba 34hfx84 cinema series set, Toshiba A2 hd-dvd player, Panasonic DMP-bd10a, Denon 757. I'd say just order one and see how it goes. The switch is very nicely made, all metal and pretty heavy for its size. It does take a bit to sync up when changing live inputs but so far it always works for my stuff.

Hi I just bought the MonoPrice 4x1 and seem to have problems. I dont know if the box is defective or its just not compatible. I connected my XBox360 and PS3 and it giving me alot of flickering on the screen and than screen goes blank. Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks

check to see that your cables are seated. it sounds like that there is a bad connection.

HDMI has 19 connectors in the cable and if anything is not seated properly there can and will be problems. you could also have one bad cable.

Hi I just bought the MonoPrice 4x1 and seem to have problems. I dont know if the box is defective or its just not compatible. I connected my XBox360 and PS3 and it giving me alot of flickering on the screen and than screen goes blank. Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks

Mine did the same thing, In an email Monoprice asked me to do everything except stand on one foot and swing it over my head, but nothing would allow it to work. I sent it back and am using a Monoprice manual switch that works fine. When my tax money comes, I will pick up the Onkyo 805 and that will do it all.

Thanks guys I just set it up again and carefully seated the wires and all seems to be working fine

The switch is working well for me. I have Panasonic BD-10A, Toshiba A2/A30, Accurian HDTV tuner, and a Popcorn a-100. I also tried a Zenith DVB-318 and a HTPC, both works.

What switch should I get to use with a HR20, PS3 and a HD-A30? I would like for it to be able to be controlled by a Harmony 880.

If I buy this switch, I plan to hook up the following devices:
Comcast HD DVR (Moto 6412)
HTPC (using DVI->HDMI cable)
PS3

I have 3 questions about this setup...

1) This switch has an HDMI out. However, my TV (Samsung HLN567W) has only a DVI input. Has anyone tested how this switch performs when using an HDMI->DVI cable for the output?

2) It seems like people are having issues with cable boxes. Has anyone tested with the Moto 6412?

3) This switch supports HDMI 1.3b, which the PS3 also supports, which I think involves "Deep Color" or something. What is the deal with this? Does it make a huge difference, or if I used a different switch that does not support 1.3b would I be missing a great deal? Does my TV have to support this also?

Thanks!

Update - Well I solved my own problem...

My setup was a 10' HDMI cable from the monitor to the switch, then a 1.5' cable from the AppleTV to the switch and a 3' cable from the 360 to the switch.

I started thinking that if the issue was signal strength, and the devices put out a strong enough signal over the 10' cable to work flawlessly on the monitor, that the switch must not be putting out a strong enough signal. So, I moved the switch right next to the monitor, connected it with the 1.5' cable, then used the 10' cable to connect the AppleTV to the switch and the original HDMI cable my 360 Elite came with to connect it to the switch. Now everything works flawlessly through the switch!

Bought the 4x1 1.3b and it doesn't work at 1080P. I only have 2 HDMI devices, an AppleTV and a Xbox360. With both devices, regardless of what port or power on sequence I use, the image will flash purple/green/snow and flicker in and out. Both devices work flawlessly when connected directly to my Dell 2408WFP, so I know the problem is not the monitor, the devices, or the cables.

Based on this I tried setting the resolution on both devices to 720P and lo-and-behold they both worked flawlessly through the switch. So, unless I got a defective unit, the problem is the switch can't handle 1080P, or is messing up the 1080P signal in some way.

Does anyone have a switch that works at 1080P with an Xbox360 and/or AppleTV?

I tried this switch and could not get it to work with most of my equipment.

I have a Sony VPL-VW40 Projector that is connected to an Onkyo 705. I have the output of the switch going to one of the inputs on the 705.

I also have a PS3, a 360, and an HD-A30.

The HD-A30 works with the switch at all resolutions, including 1080p/24.

The PS3 only works at 1080p/60. When I start a bluray movie at 1080p/24, the signal is lost.

The xbox360 at 1080p will not work at all (the receiver does not receive a signal from the switch).

I wanted to use the switch because I also have a verizon fios hd-dvr and the 705 only has 3 HDMI inputs. I'm gonna have to connect the dvr via components now. It wouldn't affect PQ anyways cuz the highest resolution the dvr outputs is 1080i.

I'm gonna see if I could use this switch with my 3yr old 55" sony rear projection TV that only has 1 hdmi input. it maxes out at 1080i (native 768p) so it shouldn't have a problem with this switch.

I am surprised that you are having this issue. I have the same switch going to A Panasonic AE900 and I have similar equipment and everything works. I have used this switch with other Sony equipment and I have had no problems including outputing 1080/24. How long is your cable run? The extra few feet of cable could be causing some type of loss. I would also check the settings on the 705 to be sure your have the HDMI outputs set correctly for monotor output. I have the 605 and I did not get things to work until I reset my outputs. Monotor on Sound output off from HDMI.

I am surprised that you are having this issue. I have the same switch going to A Panasonic AE900 and I have similar equipment and everything works. I have used this switch with other Sony equipment and I have had no problems including outputing 1080/24. How long is your cable run? The extra few feet of cable could be causing some type of loss. I would also check the settings on the 705 to be sure your have the HDMI outputs set correctly for monotor output. I have the 605 and I did not get things to work until I reset my outputs. Monotor on Sound output off from HDMI.

well...I do have a 25 ft run from the receiver to the projector, but I am using a 22gauge 1.3 HDMI cable from Monoprice. The connections between the receiver, the switch, and the rest of the components is via a 3ft 28gauge 1.3 cable.

The PS3 is weird because I could see the XMB fine...the signal disappears though when I start a bluray movie.

The 360 just refuses to form a connection between any of the four ports.

The A30 works fine, at all resolutions.

The 705 is configured properly (Monitor on, sound off). With all 3 components connected directly to the receiver, I dont have problems with handshaking.

Oh well, I could have a defective unit but its working perfectly with my old TV so i'm keeping it.

I'll just have to wait to upgrade my 705 with a receiver with more HDMI inputs.

I have the switch and it works fine. The output goes to a Panasonic AE900 projector. I only use 2 inputs. One for my HTPC, and the other for a Sony Blu-Ray BDP-S300.

As a follow up:
I just bought what may be the most expensive HDMI switch and it works fine
The Onkyo 805 did what the Monoprice switch could not.
Using the exact same cables and devices, the Onkyo switches all my signals flawlessly into my projector, not to mention with some real Kick Azz sound to boot

It would be interesting if you try the Monoprice switch going to one input on the Onkyo.
I know you now dont need it but I bet it will work. I am using the switch going to an Onkyo 605 and it works. Enjoy your 805 but check out the firmware update thread on the receiver forum section. There have been a few issues with DTSMA causing speaker damage. Enjoy your new toy

I'm thinking of ordering the switch but have read some negative reviews when connecting it to a Panasonic.

I have a Panasonic TH50PZ700U Plasma. My cable box is connected to the TV's first HDMI input so that's fine. For the 2nd HDMI input, I'm going to use the switch to connect my Sony BDPS300 blu-ray and a Sony RDRGX350 DVD recorder.

I have heard the the blu-ray player works fine but I'm just not sure that the switch will work with a Panasonic plasma. Any advice?

Thanks!

It is worth a try. Monoprice will take it back if you have an issue. I am using the switch with a Panasonic AE900 projector with no issue. I have a Toshiba XA2 and Bd30 and a PS3 and have no issues.

Thanks. However, I am in Canada and shipping is more. It could be a hassle having to return it. It is a great price though!

I have question about HDMI switches I can't seem to find the answer to here. If anyone can shed some light, that would be awesome:

When using a switch like this going into a receiver like the yamaha 663, does the switch successfully switch the AUDIO with the video? All the retailers talk about it switching the video source to your TV, but I'd need it to act as a switch into the receiver, switching audio and video together, since the receiver is what is plugged into the TV.

Thanks.

Audio and Video will switch using HDMI. You must be sure that your settings in the receiver are correct.

are any of you having luck with dtv boxes and this switch? i just got dtv today and had one of the first monoprice 4x1's (not sure of the model). it worked fine with my moto hddvr cable box and ps3, but not so well with the dtv hr21. i have it connected to an espon 1080 home projector.

I tried this switch and could not get it to work with most of my equipment.

I have a Sony VPL-VW40 Projector that is connected to an Onkyo 705. I have the output of the switch going to one of the inputs on the 705.

I also have a PS3, a 360, and an HD-A30.

The HD-A30 works with the switch at all resolutions, including 1080p/24.

The PS3 only works at 1080p/60. When I start a bluray movie at 1080p/24, the signal is lost.

The xbox360 at 1080p will not work at all (the receiver does not receive a signal from the switch).

I wanted to use the switch because I also have a verizon fios hd-dvr and the 705 only has 3 HDMI inputs. I'm gonna have to connect the dvr via components now. It wouldn't affect PQ anyways cuz the highest resolution the dvr outputs is 1080i.

I'm gonna see if I could use this switch with my 3yr old 55" sony rear projection TV that only has 1 hdmi input. it maxes out at 1080i (native 768p) so it shouldn't have a problem with this switch.




I am having the oposite problem. My PS3 is blank until a movie starts and and plays all the way through at 1080p/24fps. Is the PS3 menu in a different resolution?

I am having the oposite problem. My PS3 is blank until a movie starts and and plays all the way through at 1080p/24fps. Is the PS3 menu in a different resolution?

I think the PS3 menu runs at the highest resolution it can... mine runs at 1080p/60 if 1080p is enabled. 1080i/60 if only 1080i is enabled.

Movies and games run at their native (if the resolution is available)

I just got my HDX-401E today...Does not work with my xbox360...I get a flickery screen and no audio. If I change my xbox to 1080i, it seems to work fine.

I'm replacing a year old Terk switch because I wanted a switich with an IR remote so i can use it with my new Harmony 880.

Tried different cables and different switch ports, no joy. All my other devices seem fine with it (PS3, Dish PVR, Panasonic DVD carosel, Yamaha amp) just my xbox having issues with it.

As I know both the cable and port are fine (work with other devices) and all these devices work in my old Terk 3x1 - - - does anyone have any tips or tricks for me to try?

Thanks.

I just got my HDX-401E today...Does not work with my xbox360...I get a flickery screen and no audio. If I change my xbox to 1080i, it seems to work fine.

I'm replacing a year old Terk switch because I wanted a switich with an IR remote so i can use it with my new Harmony 880.

Tried different cables and different switch ports, no joy. All my other devices seem fine with it (PS3, Dish PVR, Panasonic DVD carosel, Yamaha amp) just my xbox having issues with it.

As I know both the cable and port are fine (work with other devices) and all these devices work in my old Terk 3x1 - - - does anyone have any tips or tricks for me to try?

Thanks.

Called Monoprice, they said they typically have no issues with xb360, reccomended I try a better HDMI cable like 24AWG...I ordered 2 new HDMI cables to replace 2 of my 6 that do look to be slightly smaller/thinner than the others...Unhooking a larger cable to test is not realistic for me as I have my components on these built-ins shelves I made, so I'll just wait for my new cables....I hope this is it as nobody else seems to be having any XBox 360 issues with this switch...will update once I get the cables and can try them.

I just got my HDX-401E today...Does not work with my xbox360...I get a flickery screen and no audio. If I change my xbox to 1080i, it seems to work fine.

I'm replacing a year old Terk switch because I wanted a switich with an IR remote so i can use it with my new Harmony 880.

Tried different cables and different switch ports, no joy. All my other devices seem fine with it (PS3, Dish PVR, Panasonic DVD carosel, Yamaha amp) just my xbox having issues with it.

As I know both the cable and port are fine (work with other devices) and all these devices work in my old Terk 3x1 - - - does anyone have any tips or tricks for me to try?

Thanks.
Interesting. I'm having port problems rather than device problems. As soon as my 401E arrived, I plugged my Philips 5982 into port 1. Got weird flickering/sparklies issues. Plugging it into port 2 worked fine. Plugging my Denon 3808 into port 3 also worked fine. I haven't yet tested port 4 with any devices. Personally I'd rather just use the Denon to switch HDMI, but since the dropout issue is still there, I'm using the 401E as a stopgap measure. The fact that port 1 doesn't work with my Philips is a bummer, but the other ports I'm using are working correctly, so right now it's not worth the additional postage to get a replacement.

Hey everyone,
This is a little off topic but can anyone please tell me the difference between a switcher and a distribution amplifier.
After reading this thread and all the problems I am not sure if a switcher is the way to go. I have noticed a big price difference for a DA.
Thanks in advance

Hi all,

I just received this switch in the mail and I am having problems with it. My devices:

PS3
Moto DVR
HTPC

My TV is a Samsung HLN567W - it has a HDCP-compatible DVI port (using HDMI-DVI cable from the switch)

I hooked all my devices up to this Monoprice switch and the computer works just fine, but the Moto cable box and the PS3 both display black screens. I think this is an HDCP issue since the non-HDCP PC works fine, and the other two devices, which are HDCP, do not work.

In addition, if I unplug the switch from the TV and the power outlet, then plug it back in, the cable box displays a picture for a few seconds before going black - this really makes me think it's an HDCP authentication problem.

Both the cable box and the PS3 work correctly when plugged directly into the TV with the same HDMI-DVI cable. All the cables are brand new Monoprice 24awg cables.

What could be causing this problem? Is there a particular sequence of plugging in or turning on the devices that will cause HDCP authentication to work properly?

Also, do you think I would have better luck with the older Monoprice switch, the 5x1? Is it more stable/reliable than this one?

Thanks in advance for any help.

What could be causing this problem?

HDCP

Is there a particular sequence of plugging in or turning on the devices that will cause HDCP authentication to work properly?

The most oft repeated power on advice is (1) TV, (2) Switch, and (3) Source.

Also, do you think I would have better luck with the older Monoprice switch, the 5x1? Is it more stable/reliable than this one?

I had similar problems with this 4x1 switch and my Moto DCT3416i DVR. Therefore I returned it (after extensively going through all the crazy power on/different port/different cable combinations possible) and ordered the 5x1. It should arrive next week. I'll post my results.

Good luck - damn HDCP.

I had similar problems with this 4x1 switch and my Moto DCT3416i DVR. Therefore I returned it (after extensively going through all the crazy power on/different port/different cable combinations possible) and ordered the 5x1. It should arrive next week. I'll post my results.

Thanks. Good to know I'm not the only one seeing this. I will most likely await your results before trying the 5x1. Is Monoprice pretty good about returns/exchanges like this, i.e. swapping the 4x1 for the 5x1?

What really scares me about stuff like this is that I am thinking about getting a new Onkyo receiver in the future with HDMI switching. Am I going to have similar problems then? This switch is $40, so if it doesn't work, no biggie - but receivers cost a LOT more, and the prospect of a $700 piece of equipment not correctly switching HDMI is pretty scary...

Can anyone else chime in with anything else for me to try before I decide to RMA this switch?

Thanks...

Is Monoprice pretty good about returns/exchanges like this, i.e. swapping the 4x1 for the 5x1?

Depends on your definition of "good". They allowed me to return it - if I paid the shipping. They refunded the cost of the unit only, and for store credit. So I paid shipping both ways, plus the shipping for the new unit. And if it doesn't work with my setup I'll end up paying shipping back to them again.

What really scares me about stuff like this is that I am thinking about getting a new Onkyo receiver in the future with HDMI switching. Am I going to have similar problems then?

Damp HDCP. I think in my case it isn't the switch at all. At first I was convinced it was the switch. But, it is much more apparent now that it is how the other device(s) in the loop have implemented HDCP. I read that some sources try to determine the total cable length (ie: if > 35ft don't handshake) in an effort to ensure signal strength. It is more than just the switch.

The Motorola DVRs are notorious for not playing nice with receivers and switches. My plan if the 5x1 doesn't work is to get a newer DCH3416 from Comcast before RMAing the switch again. I also plan to add a new receiver in the future (Onkyo is on the list) that will function as a switch. If that doesn't work I will be applying a lot of pressure on Comcast to get their firmware updated.

Works fine for me... I just got it this week.

My setup:
LG BH200 for Blu-Ray (also does CD's, HD DVD's, SD DVD's)
Toshiba HD-A20 for HD DVD and most SD DVD's
Dish Network vip622 DVR
Philips 3475/37 DVD recorder

going into a Mitsubishi 57732

All HDMI cables are Cables Unlimited (1.1 or 1.2a--I forget) that I bought from Fry's.

Called Monoprice, they said they typically have no issues with xb360, reccomended I try a better HDMI cable like 24AWG...I ordered 2 new HDMI cables to replace 2 of my 6 that do look to be slightly smaller/thinner than the others...Unhooking a larger cable to test is not realistic for me as I have my components on these built-ins shelves I made, so I'll just wait for my new cables....I hope this is it as nobody else seems to be having any XBox 360 issues with this switch...will update once I get the cables and can try them.

Got my 24AWG cables and the switch works fine for my xbox now...It was odd because at first it did not work, but aftter moving my xbox to port 1 it works fine. It was having problmes in port #3, but my DVR is there now with no problems...So, I'm good to go.

Guys, i'm guessing most here own or have owned this unit, so if you can answer these questions i'd appreciate it. Thanks.

1) Did anyone here connect both a PS3 and XBox360 to the unit?

How did it work out?

2) I would order this switch but i cannot find a review, on how it performs. For instance a couple reviews for other switchers(Radiient/Oppo) look for signal degradation.

If anyone has a url that did a detailed review on this unit, it would be very helpfull.(i looked in many places with no luck so far)

Thanks for any replies back.

Phil

I don't have either gaming unit but I can say I don't see any degradation of the signal at all on mine, and so far everything plugged into it works fine as well. It's nice to have enough ports now for all the HDMI gear I have recently acquired, and the remote control is nice and does work with my Logitech remote too.

I don't have either gaming unit but I can say I don't see any degradation of the signal at all on mine, and so far everything plugged into it works fine as well. It's nice to have enough ports now for all the HDMI gear I have recently acquired, and the remote control is nice and does work with my Logitech remote too.

Thanks for the reply back.

Just got this switch Friday and am evidently having the HDCP handshaking issue others have reported. My setup is as follows:

- Onkyo 805 receiver
- Westinghouse LVM-47W1 47" LCD display
- PS3 and Xbox 360 connected via 2-port Monoprice manual HDMI switch to 805 (both consoles work great at 1080p; never had any problems)
- Oppo 981 1080p DVD player connected directly to 805

I recently picked-up the Roku Netflix streaming box (which I love), and plugged this directly into the 805. Works flawlessly. Having had no problems with my 2-port HDMI switch from Monoprice, I ordered HDX-401E so I could connect both the Oppo 981 and the Roku box at once (one of the three HDMI ports on my 805 is damaged so I'm limited to using only two of them). While the Roku box works fine through the new switch, the Oppo has severe handshaking issues: screen flickers on and off, speakers produce crackling sound, then total loss of signal after a minute or two. Tried the Oppo on a different switch port and this made no difference. Reseated all cables several times, and tried various start-up sequences. Still getting the same result. I'll try different cables tonight (was using brand new cables from Monoprice that I got with the switch) and see if this helps. If not, I'll test the Oppo on my 2-port manual switch and if that works I'll probably exchange the HDX-401E for a second 2-port manual switch.

Sorry for the long post, hoping someone with a similar setup will find it useful.

I'm having a similar sparkle & crackle problem with this switch and my Philips DVD player. My Magnavox Blu-Ray player seems immune. This switch and the idea of being able to have my Blu-Ray player & DVD player hooked up at the same time has become quite the money pit. I've just now ordered some 24 gauge cables, hoping that will solve the problem as all of my cables previously have been 28 gauge.

I need to get a switch and was about to purchase this, but I so do not feel like dealing with problems like many here are experiencing. Any switches out there regarded as trouble-free for the most part?

I'm having a similar sparkle & crackle problem with this switch and my Philips DVD player. My Magnavox Blu-Ray player seems immune. This switch and the idea of being able to have my Blu-Ray player & DVD player hooked up at the same time has become quite the money pit. I've just now ordered some 24 gauge cables, hoping that will solve the problem as all of my cables previously have been 28 gauge.

FWIW, I'm using 6' 24AWG HDMI cables (from Monoprice) and still getting the handshake problem. :(

Depends on your definition of "good". They allowed me to return it - if I paid the shipping. They refunded the cost of the unit only, and for store credit. So I paid shipping both ways, plus the shipping for the new unit. And if it doesn't work with my setup I'll end up paying shipping back to them again.


This is unfortunate. I was hoping for them to take better care of their customers over this issue, since it seems to be a fairly common problem, at least on these forums.

Have you received your replacement 5x1 switch? If so, is it working better for you than the 4x1 switch?

The Motorola DVRs are notorious for not playing nice with receivers and switches. My plan if the 5x1 doesn't work is to get a newer DCH3416 from Comcast before RMAing the switch again. I also plan to add a new receiver in the future (Onkyo is on the list) that will function as a switch. If that doesn't work I will be applying a lot of pressure on Comcast to get their firmware updated.

I still have not been able to get my 4x1 to properly handshake HDCP from my PS3 or my cable box either, no matter what combination of turning things on or off I try...

HOWEVER - last night, I tested this 4x1 switch with my Dell monitor (2408WFP) and it actually worked! Both the Motorola cable box and the ps3 switched without issue, and properly negotiated HDCP. What could this possibly mean? :confused: Why does the Dell monitor handle the HDCP handshake from the switch properly, but my Samsung TV does not? Again, everything works properly when plugged directly into the Samsung, just not through the switch.

This is so frustrating.

This won't help solve any practical problems with HDCP handshaking, but I found the article interesting for enumerating the high quantity of potential points of failure HDCP is hampered by:

http://www.videsignline.com/howto/198900437

Wonderful.:rolleyes: It's possible that HDMI 1.3b has tighter interoperability standards, but a) this doesn't necessary mean manufacturers are adhering to such standards, and b) even if they are this doesn't help those of us with "old" HDMI devices (i.e., my 1-year old PS3, or my 2-year old LCD HDTV). Once again, I suppose early adopters can't be complainers.:cool:

FWIW, I'm using 6' 24AWG HDMI cables (from Monoprice) and still getting the handshake problem. :(

Aww crap. Well, I don't consider my problem to be handshake related, it seems to handshake fine in the sense that it displays and it will pass 1080i fine, it's just once the DVD player clicks to 1080p that there are audio crackles and video sparkles. That's why I hope a thicker cable will do the trick. Oh well, I suppose if the 24g cables don't work I'll just send the whole lot back at once along with returning the DVD player. I can understand now why some see the 2 HDMI ports of the Yamaha 663 as so limiting, shame on all those that proclaimed a switch to be the easy fix for that... including myself.

Have you received your replacement 5x1 switch? If so, is it working better for you than the 4x1 switch?

Yes. Sorry, was on vacation for a week. The 5x1 switch was here when I got home and it worked immediately. I put the Moto box on Input 5 and the Toshiba DVD on Input 1. Now, one thing did change in my equation: I used a 1.5ft HDMI cable to connect the Moto instead of the previously used 6ft cable (both from Monoprice). From the switch I have a 35ft HDMI run to the projector. So maybe it was the switch, maybe it was the shorter cable, or perhaps a combination of the two. At this point I don't care since it works.



HOWEVER - last night, I tested this 4x1 switch with my Dell monitor (2408WFP) and it actually worked! Both the Motorola cable box and the ps3 switched without issue, and properly negotiated HDCP. What could this possibly mean? :confused: Why does the Dell monitor handle the HDCP handshake from the switch properly, but my Samsung TV does not? Again, everything works properly when plugged directly into the Samsung, just not through the switch.

This is so frustrating.

Agreed on the frustrating piece. Maddening I'd say. I found in testing that a 6ft run from Moto to 4x1 switch, then another 6ft to my TV worked just fine. My DVD worked on all ports thru the switch to the projector (the Moto didn't work on any port). But for some reason my new setup just works.

Best of luck...

Yes. Sorry, was on vacation for a week. The 5x1 switch was here when I got home and it worked immediately. I put the Moto box on Input 5 and the Toshiba DVD on Input 1. Now, one thing did change in my equation: I used a 1.5ft HDMI cable to connect the Moto instead of the previously used 6ft cable (both from Monoprice). From the switch I have a 35ft HDMI run to the projector. So maybe it was the switch, maybe it was the shorter cable, or perhaps a combination of the two. At this point I don't care since it works.

Thanks for the update. This gives me hope that the 5x1 switch will work better for my setup as well. Once I get the 5x1 I will post my results.

Incidentally, how does one go about getting Monoprice to respond to questions? I have now sent two messages to them via their web form, one in the form of a question seeking support for this issue, and the second a direct RMA request for the 4x1 switch. It has been quite a few days (actually well over a week from the first message), and neither message has produced a reply! I would have thought at least the RMA request would have prompted some attention from them. Do you have to call them to actually get them to issue you an RMA, or what?

Well, my 24g 'premium' cables arrived today, the result is actually worse than the 28g cables. While the inexpensive 28g cable would sync and stay synced, it would produce sparkles and crackles. The 24g cable doesn't seem to sync at all most of the time, finally managed to get it to sync once and it still had all the sparkles. It seems the Philips DVP-5990 is completely incompatible with this switch.

Thanks for the update. This gives me hope that the 5x1 switch will work better for my setup as well. Once I get the 5x1 I will post my results.

Incidentally, how does one go about getting Monoprice to respond to questions? I have now sent two messages to them via their web form, one in the form of a question seeking support for this issue, and the second a direct RMA request for the 4x1 switch. It has been quite a few days (actually well over a week from the first message), and neither message has produced a reply! I would have thought at least the RMA request would have prompted some attention from them. Do you have to call them to actually get them to issue you an RMA, or what?

I had the same issue with them responding to an RMA request... however I then found the messages in my spam folder three days after they were sent... oops.

You could also try calling them, I was able to get a hold of a tech support guy on a Saturday.

...and neither message has produced a reply!

PM sent with the emails for the people I worked with.

Got the HDX-401E the other day and have been messing with it all weekend. It's hit and miss, but my setup is not typical. I have a 70 foot Blue Jean BJC-Series 1 cable that runs from the switch to my Toshiba 52XF550U. So far any device I connect directly to the long cable works great. Once I put the switch in place things fall apart. I'm using blue Jean BJC-Series 2 short cables (1 foot and 3 foot) to make the connection between the XBox360, Tivo Series 3 and Tivo HD.

The Xbox on a 1 foot cable made the connection, but I had video drop outs and audio dropouts and static. Tried various power up/down methods - nothing. Tried different ports on the switch - no change. Then tried using a 3 foot cable from the Xbox to the switch - got good picture and sound. Yay.

The Tivos won't work with any cable. I get picture which looks good - no drop outs, but there is no audio. I have tried a variety of settings on the Tivo and the TV as well as different ports etc. Nothing works.

So my big question is do I need an HDMI extender such as the Monoprice 3394? There are many others, but I am unsure it would help? If the cable works alone why should I need an extender? Seems like this is a failure in the design of the switch and in my mind an extender won't fix the shortcomings of the switch.. I'm willing to pay more for a switch that can drive my long cable but of course how do I choose? Gefen, Octava, Zektor?

The Zektor HDMI5 looks amazing and has a cable length tuning mode - I have never seen that on another switch. It also decodes and then re-encodes the HDMI signal to correct problems with non-compliant devices. It sure is expensive though.

This switch looks interesting. What are you seeing for switching times between the various devices you have connected?

I don't have one yet - not sure about the switching times. The Purelink HS-510 lists a switch time of 1.5 seconds which is pretty good. Their specs also look good in theory since they only use Silicon Image chips. The claim there is that Silicon Image is the only company that makes chips that conform to the HDMI standards correctly. I haven't bothered to confirm this, but Silicon Image is well known as a manufacturer of HDMI transmitters and receivers and the like.

Great. Now I have TWO expensive switches to choose from.

What are people seeing for switching times with the Monoprice HDX-401E??

It's basically instant, no longer than switching on the receiver or the TV itself, so maybe a second. I never even considered it until you asked the question.

imeridian, Thanks for the response

So i bought this switch in January, didnt start using it until last week... (i had no need to use it). It was working great, i only had my PS3 and Xbox hooked up to it. Now i moved all my AV equipment into a closet on a rack. Now it doesnt want to switch anything. When i plug my PS3 or 360 directly into my Onkyo 605 it works fine. So there is something wrong with the switch. I dont understand how it can work for 2 weeks and then i move it into a closet and it doesnt work. maybe the switch is gay and wants to come out of the closet..... =(
I am waiting to see what Customer Service says, hopefully they will give me a way to fix it.

-J

I really doubt if it is the switch. I have found that the cables can become loose or the cable is not seated correctly. Try to wiggle the cable or try reversing cables. I have a PS3 going to the same switch and it works fine.

I purchased two of these switches, and neither work with my Pio Elite plama. I'm going to manually connect the source cables to the main 30' line running to the TV. Very frustrating, but I refuse to spend more money on HDCP compliant products that aren't exactly HDCP compliant.

I really doubt if it is the switch. I have found that the cables can become loose or the cable is not seated correctly. Try to wiggle the cable or try reversing cables. I have a PS3 going to the same switch and it works fine.

Really? I highly doubt that so many people here would be having problems if there were no issues with the switch. Plugging in an HDMI cable is not rocket science - and if so many people are having cable seating issues as you suggest, then I would say that is an issue with the physical construction of the ports on the switch.

However, I really don't think it's a cable seating issue, the problems people are describing in this thread are almost certainly a problem with the HDCP implementation. Of course, I'm not sure that it's particularly Monoprice's fault - there is no way they could test the switch with every piece of equipment and every display out there. However, it's somebody's fault - somebody, whether it be Monoprice or the other equipment or display manufacturers, is not adhering to the HDMI/HDCP specification.

If there were no HDCP at all, I am quite sure there would be no problem. Let's blame the content providers for forcing us to use a technology which has done absolutely nothing to stop piracy and has only made it more difficult for real consumers to access content they legally purchased.

I've got a Roku Netflix player, Apple TV, and a PS3 hooked up thru the Monoprice switch. The Roku and Apple TV work great but I get intermittent video sparkles (but no audio crackling) when I use the PS3. It's driving me nuts.

Hi all,

I just received this switch in the mail and I am having problems with it. My devices:

PS3
Moto DVR
HTPC

My TV is a Samsung HLN567W - it has a HDCP-compatible DVI port (using HDMI-DVI cable from the switch)

I hooked all my devices up to this Monoprice switch and the computer works just fine, but the Moto cable box and the PS3 both display black screens. I think this is an HDCP issue since the non-HDCP PC works fine, and the other two devices, which are HDCP, do not work.

In addition, if I unplug the switch from the TV and the power outlet, then plug it back in, the cable box displays a picture for a few seconds before going black - this really makes me think it's an HDCP authentication problem.

Both the cable box and the PS3 work correctly when plugged directly into the TV with the same HDMI-DVI cable. All the cables are brand new Monoprice 24awg cables.

What could be causing this problem? Is there a particular sequence of plugging in or turning on the devices that will cause HDCP authentication to work properly?

Also, do you think I would have better luck with the older Monoprice switch, the 5x1? Is it more stable/reliable than this one?

Thanks in advance for any help.

I just wanted to post the resolution to my issue in this thread.

I contacted Monoprice about this issue, and they said it could be a defective switch, so they sent me a replacement free of charge. The replacement did not work and exhibited the same behavior - black screens on HDCP material (PS3, Cable Box), and working fine for non-HDCP material (HTPC). So, I called Monoprice back and suggested returning the 4x1 switch altogether and exchanging it for the 5x1. They said that they do not do exchanges, but I could ship the 4x1 back for a refund and apply the credit toward the 5x1. So, I shipped back the 4x1.

However, instead of getting the 5x1 switch, I decided to go ahead and buy the Onkyo TX-SR805 receiver that I had my eye on. I received my 805 yesterday and the HDMI switching works perfectly on it - everything switches perfectly to my TV, the PS3, Cable Box, and HTPC, no problems at all.

With this knowledge, I think I can confirm that the Monoprice 4x1 switch does indeed have HDCP issues, at least with my television, a Samsung HLN567W DLP. I wanted to post this information here in case anyone has a similar TV and is considering this switch. Try the 5x1 first!

I haven't seen anyone mention this, but has anyone gone from using the previous version 2.5 4x1 switch to the version 3.0 4x1 switch...?

I am using the 3.0 version with NO issues. Read my full review here for details about this new version;
http://404era.com/blarg/2008/8/26/the-smell-of-quality.html

Feel free to leave comments whether you agree or disagree, thanks!
*Those interested in contributing to the blarg, ie reviews, etc. feel free to leave a msg.*

I recently purchased the PZ800U. I had it mounted on my wall, with 1 hdmi connected from the tv to my receiver, and then all devices (PS3, Xbox360, and Cable Box) connected to the receiver. My receiver blew out on me a few weeks ago, so it is in the shop. I just purchased an HDMI switch to hold me over from Monoprice (http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2)

The problem is that when I use my switch with my cable box I get no audio, only video. The switch works fine with the PS3 and the Xbox360. I also took my cable box and switch upstairs and tried it on an older panasonic plasma (TH-42PX60U) and it worked perfectly fine, audio and video. I can connect my tv directly to the cable box via the HDMI wire without any issues as well. So it appears it has something to do specifically with the PZ800U I guess??? Does anyone have any thoughts, is there some setting on the PZ800U that is blocking the audio via the switch? The cable box I have is the Scientific Atlanta 8300HD.

I am still trying to figure this out with my PS3. It does not display correctly in 1080p mode. It gets the "sparkles." If I hook my cable directly from my TV to my playstation it works fine. I am using the latest 4x1 switch from monoprice. Still no luck. Just a short 1.5 ft cable running from the PS3 to the switch. I may try the 5x1 to see if that helps. Why can't they state on their webpage though specifically that the 5x1 works and the 4x1 doesn't?

I recently purchased the PZ800U. I had it mounted on my wall, with 1 hdmi connected from the tv to my receiver, and then all devices (PS3, Xbox360, and Cable Box) connected to the receiver. My receiver blew out on me a few weeks ago, so it is in the shop. I just purchased an HDMI switch to hold me over from Monoprice (http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2)

The problem is that when I use my switch with my cable box I get no audio, only video. The switch works fine with the PS3 and the Xbox360. I also took my cable box and switch upstairs and tried it on an older panasonic plasma (TH-42PX60U) and it worked perfectly fine, audio and video. I can connect my tv directly to the cable box via the HDMI wire without any issues as well. So it appears it has something to do specifically with the PZ800U I guess??? Does anyone have any thoughts, is there some setting on the PZ800U that is blocking the audio via the switch? The cable box I have is the Scientific Atlanta 8300HD.


I heard bacl from Monoprice and they stated that the switch was known to have problems with Scientific Atlantic cable boxes and some Panasonic tvs combined. I ended up getting the Accell 4x1 switch which works with everything (although the PS3 only works on port 4??)

I ordered a MonoPrice "4X1 Enhanced 1.3b Certified HDMI Switch with built-in Equalizer and Remote (REV.3.0)" back in July... unfortunately, I only got around to trying it out today.

No joy.

I have a Samsung HLN507W TV with a DVI (HDCP compliant). The sources I'm trying to get to work are at Toshiba HD-A3 HD-DVD player and a DirecTV HR21 HD-DVR. The HR21 works fine through the switch. The HD-A3 doesn't.

I haven't yet tried swapping around cables yet. I've got a couple of HDMI to DVI cables I could try (although that cable works just fine HD-A3 to TV and HR21 to TV). I've also got other HDMI cables I can try.

I also haven't called MonoPrice yet. After I exhaust the cable combos, I'll do that.

Any other suggestions?

-Steve

Did you try switching the HD-DVD player in different ports on the switch. Sounds stupid, but I have an Accell switch, the PS3 on works on port 4 and the Xbox only on Port 3...

I t hink I have the same HD DVD player as you where I have my Monoprice3 HDMI switch, haven't had a chance to hook it up though. If I get a chance I will give it a try and report back if it works.

Did you try switching the HD-DVD player in different ports on the switch. Sounds stupid, but I have an Accell switch, the PS3 on works on port 4 and the Xbox only on Port 3...

Yup, I tried all of the ports. Still nothing but black screen on the TV. It IS receiving some sort of signal though... otherwise it would be a blue screen with big "NO SIGNAL" in the middle of the screen. I tried other cable combos. No luck there. Power cycling everything didn't help either.

Is there any reason having the power (and signal) remaining on the HR21 should negatively affect the switch? Even though I use a harmony to control everything, the HR21 never gets turned off.

Why on earth can't these things JUST WORK?

-Steve

I hear ya. My receiver broke so I needed to get a switch while it was in repair. The monprice doesn't work with my Panasonic TV. The Xtreme switch I have doesn't work with the HD DVD player or the PS3. I ended up buying the Accell switch (little more pricey then I would have liked). Only certain ports work for certain items, and now my SageTV which was working originally now doesn't work...

FWIW, when I had problems with this 4x1 switch I exchanged it for the 5x1 and didn't encounter any problems. Now I'm using my Denon 1909 for HDMI switching so I pulled the 5x1 switch out of the mix.

Not working with my Panny Blu-ray player was the reason I had to return an earlier version (2006). My Belkin quit working so am trying this again so I ordered this one. I have 2 HDMI inputs, so may be able to get the Panny to use one of these by itself. Could not beat the price.

I received this switch today and works perfect with everything. Now I have to program my Logitech remote.

I purchased one of these and my panny bd35 does not work properly with it.
It only works right when there is a bluray in the player(@24hz). if there is a dvd or the player is empty the tv flickers and has static(@60hz).

Does anyone know why this is?:confused:

I think I may have gotten a defective unit. I have the following devices:

Xbox 360
PS3
DirecTV HR20-700
Sony upscaling dvd

Panasonic SA-XR57 receiver
Panasonic 50PH9UK plasma

It seems that whatever I plug into port #3 of the monoprice switch has red horizontal static effecting my picture. it doesn't matter what device, or what cables I use, the output from port #3 is always corrupted.

Send it back for a RMA, they seem pretty good about replacing bad ones. Mine has worked pretty much flawlessly for me for about a year.

Send it back for a RMA, they seem pretty good about replacing bad ones. Mine has worked pretty much flawlessly for me for about a year.

yeah, I'm gonna email them about it tomorrow.

If it still doesn't work out after you get it back you might want to try the 5x1 switch they sell. Folks that have had problems seem to be mostly OK with that one.

I'm 99.9%sure it's just a problem with port #3. No matter what I plug in, or what cables I use, there is the red static throughout the picture, and there are drop outs every 10 to 15 seconds. All of my devices work flawlessly on the other 3 ports.

Why do I find these threads after I order the switch and it doesn't work?

It works fine with m Hanns-G 28" monitor. It doesn't work with my PS3. I tried different ports. I have a 6" cable going from PS3 to the switch and a 15" cable going out to the monitor.

Has anyone who couldn't get it to work with a PS3, got it to work? Or did you guys just send the switch back? How can it work with some PS3s and not others? That's not PS3s fault. They are all the same.

Well I had to pay shipping back for the incompatible unit. Going with something with higher quality next time.

I opted for the 5x1 monoprice unit when I ordered mine a few months ago.
Works great with a PS3 80gig, Xbox 360 Elite, and my HTPC.
Hooked up to my Panny 42PZ80U.

I think I may have gotten a defective unit. I have the following devices:

Xbox 360
PS3
DirecTV HR20-700
Sony upscaling dvd

Panasonic SA-XR57 receiver
Panasonic 50PH9UK plasma

It seems that whatever I plug into port #3 of the monoprice switch has red horizontal static effecting my picture. it doesn't matter what device, or what cables I use, the output from port #3 is always corrupted.

Send it back for a RMA, they seem pretty good about replacing bad ones. Mine has worked pretty much flawlessly for me for about a year.

I contacted them early last week, they shipped a replacement out and I received it on Friday.

The good news, all 4 ports seem to work. My DirecTV HR20-700 and Xbox 360 Pro both work without issue on all 4 ports.

The bad new, neither of my sony devices (PS3, dvd player) will work with the new unit, regardless of what port/cable combination I use. The dvd player just has some flickering on screen, the hdmi light goes on, but no video/audio, just flickering. The PS3 gets no result, no hdmi light, no nothing.

Lets see if they'll send me another one.

Just got the monoprice HDX-401E pid 4088 for christmas today...

.. and it works fine on any port in 1080i mode with our motorola DVR, but the xbox 360 only works with "sparkles" and artifacts on port 1 and either cycles through tons of video modes and eventually lands on 480p or doesn't work at all on all the other ports. Port 4 sometimes ends up with a hugely oversized, flickering, scrolling display.

After reading this thread I am not sure if an RMA will fix the problem or if I should send it back immediately and pick up the Oppo 3 port switch. We'll see what monoprice says, though I am not currently convinced a new switch will surely fix the problem.

For what it's worth, I am using a 10 foot monoprice 24awg (I think, that or 22..) white jacketed cable between the switch and the TV, which has always worked when directly connected to anything. I purchased a couple cheaper 3' monoprice HDMI cables for the short runs and switching them out doesn't seem to have anything to do with it. Again.. wiggling connectors around in the ports has never been an issue for me before. The problem lies with the switch and the switch alone. We'll see what monoprice says to my RMA request.

If price and the extra HDMI port are not an issue would you get the 3X1 Oppo HM31 or the 4X1 HDX-401E Monoprice? I need a switcher to share the HDMI port of my Panasonic TV with my 8300HD DVR and my new Vudu box. I'd like to hear about technical advantages/disavantages and features of one over the other... if any? Thanks...

EDIT: At Monoprice all comparable 4X1 switchers are currently sold out... Are their switchers sold any where else?

If price and the extra HDMI port are not an issue would you get the 3X1 Oppo HM31 or the 4X1 HDX-401E Monoprice? I need a switcher to share the HDMI port of my Panasonic TV with my 8300HD DVR and my new Vudu box. I'd like to hear about technical advantages/disavantages and features of one over the other... if any? Thanks...

EDIT: At Monoprice all comparable 4X1 switchers are currently sold out... Are their switchers sold any where else?

Reply: YES! i tried 2 Monoprice 4x1 switchers and sent them back because they did not properly recognize HMDI signals. The Oppo has been spot on every time.

That having been said, it's only fair to note that the Oppo is about 3x the price of the Monoprice. Further, the Monoprice people were willing to take back both units for a full refund with very little quibbling. The versions I tried were 10 months ago, so perhaps they have worked out the bugs.

It's interesting that, to my knowledge, no one is making a RELIABLE 5-6 input HDMI switcher. Because I have 6 HDMI input devices, I ended up purchasing 2 HDMI switchers. It would be nice if someone could design one that had at least 6 inputs and worked well.

I just got this switch to go to my new Epson 6500ub projector and am having problems with my PS3. Here is what i am seeing:
When i turn everything on and am in the menus on the PS3 everything is fine. I start watching a bluray movie and everything is fine. When i exit back out to the PS3 menu it starts dropping signal (the screen will flash on and off as if it is losing data.) I do not have this issue if i bypass the HDMI switch. If i restart everything i starts normally again but will go through the same process. I am not seeing any of this with the signal going through my Denon AVR-3806 to the switch... just the PS3.

Any thoughts?

Availability of the Monoprice Product ID: 4088 4X1 Enhanced 1.3b Certified HDMI Switch with built-in Equalizer and Remote (REV.3.0) has been postponed for a couple weeks to 01/15/09. Is there another place online or a store in NYC where I can get a hold on one of these before the 15th?

Thanks

I just got this switch to go to my new Epson 6500ub projector and am having problems with my PS3. Here is what i am seeing:
When i turn everything on and am in the menus on the PS3 everything is fine. I start watching a bluray movie and everything is fine. When i exit back out to the PS3 menu it starts dropping signal (the screen will flash on and off as if it is losing data.) I do not have this issue if i bypass the HDMI switch. If i restart everything i starts normally again but will go through the same process. I am not seeing any of this with the signal going through my Denon AVR-3806 to the switch... just the PS3.

Any thoughts?

Exact same issue with me.....6500UB with PS3 - connected 'straight in', it works fine. But through the monoprice switch, the signal drops every few seconds. Sometimes it stabilizes, but after playing a game and going back to the menu, it starts to jump (or vice versa - its just unstable overall)..

Another wierd thing..I've been using this switch for a few months with my epson cinema 400 (720p), and it worked perfectly. I was switching PS3, Dish Network(vip211), and xbox 360. No problems.

I put the 6500ub into the mix, and the xbox seemed to be OK, but I could only pass 720p successfully. Being that this is an "easier" signal, I guess that's why it worked. BUT, now that I have a 1080p projector, I thought to myself I'll just output the Dish Network box at 1080i. It locks pretty solid with it, but sometimes it starts jumping like the ps3 did.

I can sling the PS3 around all day at 1080p connected directly to the projector, but I'm confused why the projector is having trouble with a 'mere' 1080i signal (from the sat. box) through the switcher.

I guess I need to buy/wait for monprice to make a more solid switcher?

I got mine on friday, works fine switching between my D* and my roku (4' monoprice cables) to my pany plasma (50' run in wall with monoprice cable).

The Harmony remote codes should be in under the Monoprice name. For those having issues with the Epson 6500, it might be Epsons's problem. Others have reported HDMI handshake issues with this projector even without the switch.

oh, and for those who were asking about switching times, mine is definitely not instant, but I probably have a longer run than most. I have a 6' run from my switcher to a 50' run to my TV.

I'd say it takes about 2 seconds for the TV to handshake and recognize the D* HD DVR, and about 3 seconds to get video on the roku box. When it switches to the roku box, I then get blue screen for another 2 seconds before it goes black for 2 seconds, and then I get the video.

Any suggestions on the blue screen or way to speed things up?

I am running a media streaming device PCH A100 to a JVC Rs2 projector and having problems through this monoprice switch. Works fine when directly connected via 30' hdmi cable, but if I attached the 30' cable to the 4x1 switch and a 3' cable to the streamer, I get line flicker randomly and total picture drop out eventually. This seems to be the case at 23.9 24, 25 59.9, 60 hz refresh rates, so it must be something to do with the 4x1.

^^^

What 30' cable do you have?

This is actually a 25' not 30' monoprice 24awg gold plated flat cable

Hrm

I've been using this switch for a while with my XA2 but today I have constand handshake issues.

Same cables, no change.
I tried powering things on in different orders... no dice.

Straight cable works, and I know it's a handshake issue because if I push "off" on the XA2 I get a second of video before it shuts down, and I also get the XA2's setup menu....

I tried a shorter cable, but I don't know how much shorter I can get...

XA2 <--3ft--> switch <-- 10ft --> TV

I'd need to re-arrange things quite a bit :(

Any tips? Thanks guys.

Are any/or all of you using the recommended Category 2 HDMI cables with this switch....

Is there any corelation to those using/not using Category 2's and the problems being reported?

I've got a 4x1 HDMI switch (item 4066) that is giving me problems. It will intermittantly lose all connections (all the lights on the front go red). If I move it slightly, it will temporarily fix the problem.

I started the RMA process a little over a week ago. The asked me to send the switch back and they would send me a new one. This means that I can't use all my components for a few weeks while the old switch goes back and the new switch is sent (I'm in Canada, so it'll take a while). It is not easy to crawl behind my rack to swap cables, so this is not an option.

After a few days of back and forth, they said they'd send me a new one, and put a hold on my credit card, and remove it once I sent my old one. They direct me to the site to change my RMA to reflect this, and it now says I don't need to send mine in. I e-mail again, telling them it says this, and they say ok, unfortunately we don't have the 4066. I ask if they can send an alternate and I will pay the difference in price. Nope, can't change the item. If they can't change the item, I don't know what they would have sent me had I sent my 4066 in as they originally requested!!

So now they've said to send in my old one, they will credit my account (even though I'm beyond the store credit time frame). In the meantime, I'm to order a different one.

From the sounds of that, I'll order a new one, pay for it, send my old one and then have store credit that I will never use. I don't know if I'll bother responding, as I'm getting sick of dealing with them.

Anyone have a similar problem and solve it without an excessive number of e-mails back and forth?

Thanks,
Tyler

I believe this is the switch I have. I got it about a year ago. I recently upgraded to a Epson 1080 from a Epson 720. The switch passes 720p without a problem. Now that I have a 1080p projector I am having a problem sending 1080p/60. 1080p/24 is fine but sending 1080p/60 causes sparkles. If I connect the projector directly to the player it works perfectly. The problem is definately the swtich. According to the specs the switch is not capable of passing 1080p/60 since it is only rated for 6.75 gbps. I believe 1080p/60 requires 10.2 gbps.

What switch is capable of passing 1080p/60 without sparkles? I am thinking about getting the Oppo. I have been waiting for Emotiva to release the UMC-1 but who knows when they will actually release it.

Well mine just arrived and I hooked everything up...I have no problems with my 58" Panny Plasma and my Denon HT receiver, but my LG Blu Ray DVD is not getting a good picture at all. On the Home screen the picture looks ok there is a little white dancing pixels on the border, and then it starts to get greenish and jumpy. I tried every possible connection and for some reason the BR DVD is not working through this switch. I hooked it up directly to my TV and it works great so it has to be the switch.

I started the RMA and I am "hoping" it is just this particular unit... I wouldn't have even needed this if I didn't SOMEHOW screw up my 2nd HDMI cable when installing the new tv...I had 2 running in my wall and I think I bent the one while hooking up my new tv...grrr

This thread has been great, at least I tried all possible troubleshoots thanks to you all.

Has anybody found the remote codes for the monoprice switches. I have Universal 900 and an 880. I've had NO LUCK (perhaps no skill :confused:) :confused:trying to use the "Learn" function to switch the inputs/outputs.

WAF goes to zero if I can't control this switch with the remotes.

Well the Logitech remotes have the code in their data base online that they load into your remote so if worse comes to worse maybe you could try one of the cheaper versions of one and that will work if the 880 your talking about isn't a Logitech like mine is.
My 880 runs the switch just fine, and it is used in several of my activities I have programed in.

I purchased the monoprice hdx-401e today and set it up (using HDMI Cable v1.3 Male to Male Digital A/V Cable, 30 AWG Cable, Gold Plated Connectors) and I am not getting a signal (it will occassionally flicker static but mostly stays black) are these not the correct HDMI cables or is something else wrong

Some devices just wont handshake properly through the switch, or through the switch with certain cables. I have run into it myself when I added 1 extra device and I got a black screen. Later I tried it with a different cable and it worked fine, then I took the same cable with another device and for whatever reason it worked fine with that previously non working cable and the new device.
You also might want to try it directly into the TV if you have access easily to the inputs or a extra one.

Some devices just wont handshake properly through the switch, or through the switch with certain cables. I have run into it myself when I added 1 extra device and I got a black screen. Later I tried it with a different cable and it worked fine, then I took the same cable with another device and for whatever reason it worked fine with that previously non working cable and the new device.
You also might want to try it directly into the TV if you have access easily to the inputs or a extra one.

I have 4 devices and 3 HDMI inputs (and would rather not run components for one of them) so that's why I bought it. So the HDMI cables I listed should be fine to run this then right?

The devices are: DVR, Mac Mini, PS3, Blu Ray Player

Yes, they should be but sometimes either the device, or the cable, or even the switch just wont play nice so if your having problems try a different cable, try it directly into the input to eliminate the switch, things like that.
My TV has 2 and that was great for a 2005 built set so I needed the switch after I started getting newer gear that had only HDMI or component outs, which it also only has 2 of.
I didn't want to have to run even more cable around either so most of my stuff is using HDMI and digital outputs for sound to the receiver that doesn't have HDMI either.
The TV supports sound over HDMI and so does all the gear so at least that eliminates one extra mess of cables and maybe splitters to make everything work.

Yes, they should be but sometimes either the device, or the cable, or even the switch just wont play nice so if your having problems try a different cable, try it directly into the input to eliminate the switch, things like that.
My TV has 2 and that was great for a 2005 built set so I needed the switch after I started getting newer gear that had only HDMI or component outs, which it also only has 2 of.
I didn't want to have to run even more cable around either so most of my stuff is using HDMI and digital outputs for sound to the receiver that doesn't have HDMI either.
The TV supports sound over HDMI and so does all the gear so at least that eliminates one extra mess of cables and maybe splitters to make everything work.

What do you mean directly into the input? You mean the input on my television? All of these devices and cables have worked fine before I got the switch. I got the switch merely to make it so i didn't have to get out of the couch to unplug an hdmi and put a different one in when I wanted to load up the mac mini or ps3, etc.

Yep, directly into the HDMI input of the TV or whatever it is, if they worked OK before and the only new thing is the switch them it's your problem as something about it doesn't like the combo your using. Some folks do have issues with it, I've always manged to get it to work fine with my stuff, but I have quite a few extra HDMI cables I can try if I find one it doesn't like.
I'd try a different cable somehow even if you have to barrow one and see if that makes it happy. There are a lot of dumb things that can make something not work.
They will give you a RMA or whatever if it's still under warranty if it just wont work with what you have and you don't want to waste time trying all possibilities to make it work.