Greg, or anyone for that matter:

Can you speak a little more to the brightness of the RS2, especially in comparison to the brighter DLP's. I currently have the Infocus IN82. The picture is spectacular and the ability to throw a bright picture in my all purpose bar/HT/Man Room during sports and TV programming is great. But the RBE is really bad on it and 60+% of my viewing is movies. I purchased it with the long term plans to do a CIH set up by year's end using a 54x127 screen.

So my question is, is the RS2 going to be bright enough for someone like myself in a CIH setup? I've always been a DLP fan (IN 7200 previously) and have been wary of the LCos projectors and what I had seen in the previous Sony models as a soft picture that I did not like. Unfortunately there is no way to see an RS2 in the Northern Va/DC area that I can find. I'm about ready to pull the trigger on the RS2 but am still on the fence between it and the new BENQ 20000 coming out.

I hope I kept this on topic enough. By all accounts the RS2 is one of the best out there but I am concerned with it's lower lumens and the large 235:1 screen I plan to use.

Thanks
Randy
That may be a tough one to answer, considering you're used to what you're used to. I can tell you that the RS2 is anything but soft. On the right material(as with any projector), the clarity is simply amazing.

Here's my setup. The SMX screen is 10ft wide, 2.35 ratio. I can have lights on in the rear part of the room without too much affect on the image, but any light close to or directly on the screen and it's game over. I suppose that's true for most setups, but certain on this one.

Chris

How far off were the colors & black level on the RS-2 out of the box?

If my PJ lense is 3 inches above the top of the screen, will I need to use the mechanical lense shift on it?

Oswald,

Yes, you will have to use the lens shift to move the image down. Make sure the projector is absolutely level before worrying about shifting the image, then shift the image down using the lens shift. Of course all this assumes your screen is perfectly vertical.

If you find that either the top or bottom of the image is wider than the other, then you do not have the projector level. If the bottom is wider than the top, that means you need to tilt the front of the projector up a little and shift the image further down with the shift. When you have the projector properly level and the shift in the right position, the width at top and bottom will be identical.

There is (rightly) no electronic keystone correction on the RS1 or RS2.

Cheers,

Should I use my AVIA DVD for squaring the image on my screen, or the internal test pattern on the RS2?

The internal pattern is fine, or even a blue screen with no input, that will show the full panel area. Also, be sure to measure the height on each side to make sure you've got the yaw and horizontal centering correct.

When you are done, the height on L/R should be equal as should be the width at both the top and bottom.

You can use either. The internal test patterns should be fine.

That may be a tough one to answer, considering you're used to what you're used to. I can tell you that the RS2 is anything but soft. On the right material(as with any projector), the clarity is simply amazing.

Here's my setup. The SMX screen is 10ft wide, 2.35 ratio. I can have lights on in the rear part of the room without too much affect on the image, but any light close to or directly on the screen and it's game over. I suppose that's true for most setups, but certain on this one.

Chris

I too am concerned RE the RS2's 600 lumens brightness output. Seems low compared to other DLPs out there (ie. Optoma HD81LV, and the InFocus SP 777).

I'm planning on doing a CIH setup with an SMX 150" wide, 2.35 AR, 40' curved radius AT screen --- is the RS2 bright enough for me at this size???

I doubt it is bright enough for that size. 150" wide is huge. I'm not sure the other projectors above will make the grade either. Not to mention that your screen is only 1.16 gain right?

What are the lumens of the Optoma and Infocus at D65 calibrated? From what I have seen on measurements these days, they aren't that much brighter all things being equal. I could be wrong though as I might be thinking of other models.

I doubt it is bright enough for that size. 150" wide is huge. I'm not sure the other projectors above will make the grade either. Not to mention that your screen is only 1.16 gain right?

+1
I've got a 10' wide 16:9 SMX lit with an 800 hour RS1. It's very nice... good brightness on outdoor scenes, but I wouldn't want it any dimmer! Going to an RS2 AND a 150" screen, I think it's not going to have enough light.

Where can I buy only this review(download PDF?)? I only want to pay for this review not for the whole subscribe of Widescreen. Ist this possible. I live in Germany...

Where can I buy only this review(download PDF?)? I only want to pay for this review not for the whole subscribe of Widescreen. Ist this possible. I live in Germany...

I think it would be better to get the subscription, as you'll then have access to Greg Rogers' reviews of the competition (Sony, Sharp, Marantz, RS1, etc) to compare.

For those that are not experts at setting gain or bias, or even having the fancy calibrated equipment to measure gamma curves or where D6500 lands at every IRE mark.

Does the RS2 come with a setting that is user selectable that at least puts you in the ballpark with those good black levels?

I know every PJ settings will vary somewhat, but I thought JVC was one of the companies that calibrated these units before packing & shipping. I am not a calibrator, just an enthusiast with an avia disc and a lot of questions. :o

That may be a tough one to answer, considering you're used to what you're used to. I can tell you that the RS2 is anything but soft. On the right material(as with any projector), the clarity is simply amazing.

Here's my setup. The SMX screen is 10ft wide, 2.35 ratio. I can have lights on in the rear part of the room without too much affect on the image, but any light close to or directly on the screen and it's game over. I suppose that's true for most setups, but certain on this one.

Chris


Thanks.

Yeah, based on looking at the Sony Black Pearl I'm 90% convinced I wouldn't have any concerns with the "soft" picture of previous LCos models. My concern now is brightness. Doing the 10ft wide screen and still being happy with non-movie material. I plan to use the Prismasonic lens which means the picture will be going through the lens regardless of the original aspect ratio of the material.

You say you can leave the lights on in the rear of the room? Is that with little or no effect on the picture? I have a similar room. My basement is one big room, about 40 feet long. The front section is the HT set up, middle section is pool table, and the rear is the bar and games area on a riser. Each section has four can lights on dimmers. Generally I turn the HT area off, the pool area low, and the bar area up about 60-75%. The picture is not effected and that's how I really want to keep it. In fact I can have the pool area up pretty bright with no problems.

I REALLY need to see a damn RS2! It's a shame JVC has what so many consider one of the best on the market and can't get them in front of customers!

Anyone know where a display of one is within an hour or two of Washington DC??

For those that are not experts at setting gain or bias, or even having the fancy calibrated equipment to measure gamma curves or where D6500 lands at every IRE mark.

Does the RS2 come with a setting that is user selectable that at least puts you in the ballpark with those good black levels?

I know every PJ settings will vary somewhat, but I thought JVC was one of the companies that calibrated these units before packing & shipping. I am not a calibrator, just an enthusiast with an avia disc and a lot of questions. :o

Out of the box the black level is excellent and JVC is very good at setting their projector close to D65 out of the box too. It will have oversaturated primaries and that is what the calibration stuff will corrrect, but you can have an excellent picture with the projector as is. No problem.

Thanks cameron for the quick reply.

My understanding is that those oversaturated primaries requires adjustments beyond the normal user controls, and in the realm for those in the know correct. Not something I can do on my own without having to play with those bias and gain.

I know enough to see when an image is oversaturated, but not enough to play with those internal or expert settings.:confused:

I would not be afraid to play with it a bit, if it had a RESET switch that put everything back the way it was originally, but usually that only works on the normal user settings, and not the secret menu settings. I know that changing one setting has repercutions on other settings and it's that balance that makes it impossible for a novice.

Well with the RS2, you don't have access to any of those controls anyway. You would have to buy a video processor with a color management system to be able to affect that.

Now the RS2 has a pretty good gamma control, and with that you could make your display look pretty crazy, but you can just leave it alone.

What I suggest is see how much the color bugs you (most it doesn't at all) then move on to the video processor side of things.

Some people around here buy inexpensive colorimeters and learn the ropes of calibration and have a good time tweaking their systems.

Really at this point, I wouldn't worry about it too much judging by your previous posts. It is easy to get caught up in the perfect color hype here.

So Cameron, given Greg Rogers review with the RS2 using a higher gamma, have you tried calibrating your RS2 using a higher gamma yet? If so what were the results?

Thanks

Nope. My projector test area has been filled up with my theater seating and riser platforms. It totally blocks my screen so I haven't been able to do anything with that.
I was definitely going to try out the higher gamma though.

On a positive note, instead of playing with the toys, I am actually doing real work to expedite getting the HT finished.

I really look forward to playing with it again. It does look like it will be at least two weeks though. :(

By the end of the weekend my goal is to run the RS2 thru the paces. I'll be using the Avia disc out of an Oppo player to set white and black levels, color, tint, etc. Maybe not the best combo but that's all I have.

I have a feeling it could be a long process because of all the user adjustables in the menus, but I think I'll just make my adjustments with everything at default and then again with using a higher gamma.

Chris

You say you can leave the lights on in the rear of the room? Is that with little or no effect on the picture?
Well, that's a very subjective question. My room is totally light controlled, so any light of any kind takes away from the ultimate that this projector puts out. That said, as long as I keep direct light off the screen, the image is still very good. Forum member Doug is coming over on the 17th or 22nd/23rd of February to have a look, so stay tuned. Maybe he will shed some non biased light on the subject. :D

Chris

Personally, if you set temperature to middle, set gamma to 2.2 and knock color down to -10 you will likely be quite satisfied. I'm rather finicky about picture quality but, (before I got my Radience), I was quite satisfied with those minor changes.

Of course, make sure that the black level is set up correctly, (YUV or RGB-video, not RGB Computer).

I have had a lot of experience tweaking projectors and have the tools but the picture is so good that, like Cameron, I am spending my time working on my theater rather than tweaking.

I do have on leg up on him, though, since mine is good in good enough shape that I can watch movies, (2-3 a night). :D

I think I have a bad color sensor so when I get further along in the theater and get the sensor figured out, I'll play with higher gammas. But right now 2.2 is quite satisfying.

Out of nearly half a dozen projectors of various types, this one is the lbest out of the box and the best with minor tweaks so far.

I'm jealous. I was watching movies until I had to move all the recliners and crap over. :(

Hurry up and try out that 2.5 gamma!!!! :D

I too am concerned RE the RS2's 600 lumens brightness output. Seems low compared to other DLPs out there (ie. Optoma HD81LV, and the InFocus SP 777).

I'm planning on doing a CIH setup with an SMX 150" wide, 2.35 AR, 40' curved radius AT screen --- is the RS2 bright enough for me at this size???

That will not work. With such a screen at that size you will end-up with less than 9 FtL. For your calculation you need to use at a maximum 400 lumens since you need to take into consideration lamps aging.

Don't feel too bad, Cameron. Me and my guests are sitting in plastic chairs. :o

Yeah does anybody have one of these setup in a real finished HT?

I currently have the Infocus IN82. The picture is spectacular and the ability to throw a bright picture in my all purpose bar/HT/Man Room during sports and TV programming is great. But the RBE is really bad on it and 60+% of my viewing is movies. I purchased it with the long term plans to do a CIH set up by year's end using a 54x127 screen.

Thanks
Randy

Randy, My 720p Knoll projector was stolen from the Knoll repair shop and they are offering a discount on a replacement. Your Infocus IN82 is the same as the Knoll HDP420. If I want to take Knoll up on their offer I would like to know a bit about the projector. What do you mean when you say the "RBE is really bad?"
I too watch DVD movies most (99%) of the time--on my 106" diag. screen 13.5' from the projector in a room that is usually very dark. It sounds like you are disappointed with your IN82 for movie watching and are thinking of replacing it. Could you share you thoughts on this unit please?
Thanks, Richard

Randy, My 720p Knoll projector was stolen from the Knoll repair shop and they are offering a discount on a replacement. Your Infocus IN82 is the same as the Knoll HDP420. If I want to take Knoll up on their offer I would like to know a bit about the projector. What do you mean when you say the "RBE is really bad?"
I too watch DVD movies most (99%) of the time--on my 106" diag. screen 13.5' from the projector in a room that is usually very dark. It sounds like you are disappointed with your IN82 for movie watching and are thinking of replacing it. Could you share you thoughts on this unit please?
Thanks, Richard


I'm sending a PM so we don't get the thread off topic

Randy

How did Greg Rogers adjust the gamma of the Rs2 to 2.5. I had my dealer try to do that and he said it would only allow him to go to 2.3

How did Greg Rogers adjust the gamma of the Rs2 to 2.5. I had my dealer try to do that and he said it would only allow him to go to 2.3 Just go to the Custom item in the gamma menu, then select Correction Value, and then select the gamma you want up to 2.6. When you leave the menu you will be prompted to save the setting.

Just curious, when this higher GAMMA is selected, what adjustments will need to be looked at and which direction have you guys needed to move those adjustments. I understand not all PJ are clones and one number does not fit all, however I was curious if the adjustments were all in the same general direction.

Thanks

I'm sorry this is going to be a pretty vague sounding question but...

So far the most impressive black levels I've seen from a projector came from the SharpZ20000 single chip DLP projector, projecting on to a 100" Firehawk screen. I'm not sure which picture setting the Sharp was using but I'm pretty sure it must have been one that maximises it's black level.

When I viewed the JVC RS1 at a forum member's house on neutral gain white screen, as I remember the black levels looked very good but not quite as deep as the Sharp/Firehawk combo.

Now that I'm looking at purchasing the RS2 I'm trying to use that Sharp/Firehawk screen
as my mental "benchmark" in trying to imagine how deep the black levels might be.

Assuming full light control and dark decor, if I'm looking at the RS2 with, say, a screen between 110 to 118" diag (16:9), 1.0 or 1.4 gain, am I likely to be able to achieve black levels as good (better?) as the Sharp/Firehawk 100" combo?

I sure would think so. Sometimes memory of one projector to another isn't so good too. Still, I have seen the sharp, and when I saw it, the black level wasn't as good as the RS1. Can't remember what screen was being used though. I think it was a Stewart 1.3 gain.

Hmmm... I wouldn't think the Firehawk would make the blacks look that much blacker.

My mental benchmarks tend to be unrealistic though, your mental benchmark might work better than mine. :)

Hmmm... I wouldn't think the Firehawk would make the blacks look that much blacker.
Actually, it does. The development of the Firehawk was pretty much just for that, to help on some of these projectors that lack a little on good black levels. It sure helped on my G11, but at a cost of slightly yellowish whites.

Chris

Actually, it does. The development of the Firehawk was pretty much just for that, to help on some of these projectors that lack a little on good black levels. It sure helped on my G11, but at a cost of slightly yellowish whites.

Chris

But...with a RadianceXD the colour issue can be calibrated right out...with my RadianceXD and FireHawk I have the best of both worlds in that I have accurate colours and added black level with low level ambient light when wathing sports...what more could I ask for?

But...with a RadianceXD the colour issue can be calibrated right out...with my RadianceXD and FireHawk I have the best of both worlds in that I have accurate colours and added black level with low level ambient light when wathing sports...what more could I ask for?

I LOVE what the firehawk does well (maintain that excellent contrast). Unfortunately I'm sensitive to screen structure and brightness uniformity and I often see the sparkly overlay of the Firehawk. If not I'd get one in a heartbeat (well...that would make it the perfect screen in a way, but unfortunately there isn't one so I'll have to comprimise in other ways).

I LOVE what the firehawk does well (maintain that excellent contrast). Unfortunately I'm sensitive to screen structure and brightness uniformity and I often see the sparkly overlay of the Firehawk.
Agreed. I was in no way knocking the Firehawk. It has served me well.

With the RS2 and it's excellent blacks however, I think the SMX is a better match. Zero hotspotting and no sparlkies. For me, anyway.

Chris

Just curious, when this higher GAMMA is selected, what adjustments will need to be looked at and which direction have you guys needed to move those adjustments. I understand not all PJ are clones and one number does not fit all, however I was curious if the adjustments were all in the same general direction.
Last night I finally had some time to do a laymans calibration using the Avia disc. I started with everything in default, set white, black and color levels. Then I went to some of the other gammas, including 2.5. I was surprised but happy to see that the levels didn't need to be changed much at all. Maybe a tick or two with brightness.

That surprised me because gamma 2.5 gave the image a much darker overall look and I thought for sure I'd have to bring black/white up a quite a bit. But, the moving bars in Avia for black/white were right in there. YMMV, but that's what I found.

Chris

Chris,

My dealer found that increasing the Gamma to 2.5 made the films dimmer.

How did increasing the gamma effect your bright to average APL scenes and did you see a dramatic increase in dimensionality or crispness over the lower setting which was equivalent to a dlp . also how bright is your image?

I'm not surprised that the higher gamma made the image look dimmer. That's what I've seen when playing with higher gammas on displays (such as my plasma). I'd actually describe the image as "richer" vs "dimmer." And I do find an increase in roundness and dimensionality to actor's faces (and mid/bright scenes in general) when I either turn my brightness control way down, or use a higher gamma.

Chris,

My dealer found that increasing the Gamma to 2.5 made the films dimmer.

How did increasing the gamma effect your bright to average APL scenes and did you see a dramatic increase in dimensionality or crispness over the lower setting which was equivalent to a dlp . also how bright is your image?
gregr, if you'd rather this thread stay on topic with your review, please say so and we'll take it to the RS2 owners thread.

I honestly didn't spend enough time going back and forth to get a real grasp on exaclty where the differences are, but for sure the image was dimmer overall in darker scenes. I use the opening of the Diva scene in 5th Element to test shadow detail and with 2.5, I could not see as clearly the lapel on the jacket. Rudimentary, I know, but that's been my standard for years.

gregr, if you'd rather this thread stay on topic with your review, please say so and we'll take it to the RS2 owners thread.
I appreciate you asking. I wanted it to stay on topic when I was monitoring it and interacting. But now I'm too busy to do that, so let it go where it may. :)

Given your expertise in the field, I would like your opinion on using a video scaler with the JVC-DLA-RS2.
My present setup in a dedicated home theater is the Electrohome Marquee 8000 with the Lumagen HDP video processor on a 123 inch cinema vision ISF 1.3 gain screen.I am thinking of upgrading to the JVC.How would it compare and would the Lumagen make a difference on the JVC given the size screen I have? Thanks

RS-2 + Firehawk (original or G3) = best real world CR. The RS-2 does not NEED a Firehawk, but your HT does, unless your floor, walls, ceiling, seating and body are covered with black photo flocking paper. I have never seen sparklies on my Firehawk.....but I've never seen a UFO either !!

As to your first questions...having read the entire thread which indicates that Greg went from the VW60 to the RS2 tells me that the RS2 is overall -- at least in Greg's environment -- the better projector...

Knowing Greg the little that I do -- e-mail exchanges and the odd telephone conversation -- I know him to be very exacting so I would conclude that it would be the better choice...now, factor in the cost differential as only you can decide whether the extra money is well spent...

HTH :)

Joel - see the thread in the +3k forum, in which we did a projector shootout with the rs2 and vw60 and a couple of others...it appears to me that the rs2 was also better in fan noise, too...that thread might also help you to decide if it's worth the extra cost.

imho, it was! :)

I don't have one in my room at the moment...does anyone know the exact steps to changing aspect ratio? I am trying to figure out if I can put in a macro to do it (I have a Panamorph/Sled combo)?

Putting this change in a macro would be tricky, since you have to go thru various menus to get in the area for the change, then be able to back out. This is truly a horrible oversight for this PJ to have been put in the market with a very nice anamorphic squeeze, yet not have a simple V-Stretch mode button right on the remote. I can't imagine JVC taking to long to have a firmware update to correct this ooops.

Agreed. JVC dropped the ball big time on automation of this projector.
-Half-baked RS232 protocol
-No direct button or setting for the aspect controls including VStretch
-No direct buttons for zoom and focus (there are discreet IR codes fortunately)

Tom has said that he is trying to get JVC to help us out on these issues.

Putting this change in a macro would be tricky, since you have to go thru various menus to get in the area for the change.
Not tricky, just lengthy. And silly, when you're doing a lot of switching around from 2.35 to 16:9 stuff like when you're doing demos for your friends to show off how cool your new projector is. :mad:

Indeed silly, but mistakes happen. I'm sure the RS3 will fix it. :D

I would hope the fix happens well before any RS3.:eek:

Besides the RS3 should be able to detect a 2:35 movie on its own and automatically self adjust, and while its at it it will also self calibrate itself just proir to the lasers turning on. :)

I'm getting tired of my Optoma HD81 - not entirely ready to discard it yet, but I'm getting there. That said I have two questions:
1) Is the DLA-RS2 suitable (bright enough) for a 126" screen with a .95 gain?
2) Is the DLA-RS2 worth the $1,800 more than the RS1?

I'm getting tired of my Optoma HD81 - not entirely ready to discard it yet, but I'm getting there. That said I have two questions:
1) Is the DLA-RS2 suitable (bright enough) for a 126" screen with a .95 gain?
2) Is the DLA-RS2 worth the $1,800 more than the RS1?

Well for #1, according to Greg Roger's reviews, the RS2 is going to be brighter than the HD81 unless you have the HD81 iris cranked fully open with the worst contrast. So the RS2 in High lamp would be about the same as teh HD81 with the Iris wide open at a contrast ratio of 1260:1. If you have the iris on your HD81 cranked down to increase contrast, the RS2 is twice as bright.

#2 It is worth the 1800 more for me. The increased contrast, power zoom, power focus, gamma all add up to be worth it to me. I don't use the RS2 VStretch, but that would be a great value too if I didn't have a Radiance. The new upcoming RS1 will have the gamma control though and is brighter.

The new upcoming RS1 will have the gamma control though and is brighter.Any idea when this new RS1 is coming out and how much brighter its supposed to be?

The information is in this (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=998026) thread. That's the first I've heard that is going to be brighter, although you'll be able to adjust the gamma so it appears brighter.

I'm getting tired of my Optoma HD81 - not entirely ready to discard it yet, but I'm getting there. That said I have two questions:
1) Is the DLA-RS2 suitable (bright enough) for a 126" screen with a .95 gain?
2) Is the DLA-RS2 worth the $1,800 more than the RS1?

Assuming you mean a 16:9 126" diagonal screen here is the math:

Greg Rogers RS2 brightness in high mode
Minimum throw ratio 661 lumens
Maximum throw ratio 473 lumens

~sq.ft. of your screen 46.76 sq.ft.
Minimum throw ratio (0.93 gain screen)13.4 lumens
Maximum throw ration (0.93 gain screen) 10.1 lumens


To me that is on the low side and you would be better off getting a 1.3 gain screen. However, acording to Greg R's review of your Optoma HD81 in it's brightest mode it puts out 696 lumens with a 1260:1 contrast ratio, at its best contrast ratio mode the HD81 put out 292 lumens with a 1840:1 contrast ratio. So, depending on what mode you have your HD81 in the RS2 can be brighter or dimmer or about the same brightness. No matter what, the contrast will be over 10X what the HD81 has.

The information is in this (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=998026) thread. That's the first I've heard that is going to be brighter, although you'll be able to adjust the gamma so it appears brighter.

I think they meant brighter than the RS2. I think it's the same brightness as the original RS1.

The information is in this (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=998026) thread. That's the first I've heard that is going to be brighter, although you'll be able to adjust the gamma so it appears brighter.

I didn't see anywhere in that thread that it was brighter. The new gamma setting will be nice though!

Assuming you mean a 16:9 126" diagonal screen here is the math:

Greg Rogers RS2 brightness in high mode
Minimum throw ratio 661 lumens
Maximum throw ratio 473 lumens

~sq.ft. of your screen 46.76 sq.ft.
Minimum throw ratio (0.93 gain screen)13.4 lumens
Maximum throw ration (0.93 gain screen) 10.1 lumens


To me that is on the low side and you would be better off getting a 1.3 gain screen. However, acording to Greg R's review of your Optoma HD81 in it's brightest mode it puts out 696 lumens with a 1260:1 contrast ratio, at its best contrast ratio mode the HD81 put out 292 lumens with a 1840:1 contrast ratio. So, depending on what mode you have your HD81 in the RS2 can be brighter or dimmer or about the same brightness. No matter what, the contrast will be over 10X what the HD81 has.

I really think that in pretty much all critical viewing cases, the RS2 will be brighter.

I would suggest getting the RS2 and use the old screen, then in about a year when the bulb has dimmed down purchase a 1.3 gain screen, it'll be like getting a brand new projector!

I would suggest getting the RS2 and use the old screen, then in about a year when the bulb has dimmed down purchase a 1.3 gain screen, it'll be like getting a brand new projector!Thanks for the advice, but I've got a Screen Research AT screen. I don't think I'll ever buy another screen unless a terrible accident occurs. As of right now, the Optoma's overall lumen output is acceptable. I have no doubt the RS2 is a superior machine, but I can't rationalize paying $5,800 for it unless it was substantially brighter. Another 25% brighter and I'll definitely buy it. Thanks for the work you put into the calculations.

Any word from Mr. Sites on if or when is the V-Stretch discrete code is going to be added?

I made an ir macro to do VS. Amazing how fast the RS2 accepts ir codes. I actually had to slow it down a bit so I could see it.

It works perfect as long as you totally back out of the menu when doing something else besides VS. Until we get the direct code, this will have to do.

Chris

is there a macro that you can do to totally back out no matter where you are at in the menu?

Is there any update on the JVC CMS system that Greg mentioned in his review

Thanks

Is there any update on the JVC CMS system that Greg mentioned in his review

Thanks

Check the RS1 owners' thread for the last couple of days; lots of info on it.

The JVC CMS looks like it will be a nice solution for a simple easy to do fix.

My understanding is you can get a Lumagen for and be able to do more with it, plus it will also work with future projectors instead of tied to the RS2.

Yes that is true. The Lumagen is a great if not superior solution.
The VP50pro that the JVC unit is based on is a great processor that can be used on other projectors as well. The RS1/RS2 color correction of course would not work for other projectors, but once you upgraded projectors, you could still use the JVC VP. It would not have the CMS functions that the Radiance has though.

I believe also that the lumagen will continue to improve judging by the past performance by the company. They really are good at pushing out software releases and improving on the product.

If I knew a bit more about all the ins and outs of image tweaking, I might consider the Lumagen myself, but it is a pricey piece of gear, and in my hands I don't think I could do much with it. Heck I wish I could just measure my own grey scale tracking, and have enough know how on how to get it as best as possible. Outside of the minor amateur AVIA tweaks I am useless. I also wish JVC would of fixed the VStretch code on the RS2 by now. I am begining to wonder if they will even bother.

well if you go hang out in the calibration forum for a while and read up, you can do some pretty cool stuff with the Lumagen and increase your skill at this hobby to boot. :)

Yes it would be good if JVC could get their butts in gear and do something about the missing RS232 codes and IR stuff.

is there a macro that you can do to totally back out no matter where you are at in the menu?
Yes, you can do a bunch of 'exit' commands to get the menu off the screen quickly, but that would leave you in the wrong starting point for the next time you engaged the VS command. When you first fire the pj up, your first menu icon will be Image, then you navigate from there. If you exit out of the menu while the highlighted icon is say, Source, the highlighted icon Source is up next time you hit menu. In other words, to do the macro correctly for VS On/Off, you must exit out of the menu, if you are manually navigating, with Image being the highlighted icon.

Chris

JVC says you can get to the Vstretch mode via the aspect ratio button as long as the source is in HD?

Say what?! :eek:

Get 'to it', or engage/disengage it? Hmm, a reason to fire it up tonight!!

I think it might do this via the processor, becuse it is not working directly from the remote.
JVC PRO made this claim 1-800-582-5825

I think it might do this via the processor, becuse it is not working directly from the remote.
JVC PRO made this claim 1-800-582-5825
Too good to be true. It does not work from the remote.

Got a call back from JVC on this, and they told me that according to the maual page 22 & 29 it should do this as long as you have a Hi-Def source, however it is not working the way the manual says and that they are aware of it. What I did not like is he said that they made multiple request to JVC about a firmware update for it and they have been unresponsive to it.

So it sounds like as long as you can do V-Stretch with and external VP, then we can't expect a fix for us non-VP users. I hope this is not the case.

I hope that's not the case also. A lot of us won't be using an external processor. JVC knows this. Tom Stites knows this. It would be nice to hear an update from Tom. He was going to bring this up at a meeting several weeks ago.

Chris

UPDATE UPDATE UPDATE needed.:D

anybody know how to get to the vertical stretch mode without going through so many steps in the menu? I have the RS-232 code, but I do not use RS-232 control.

Can you do an IR macro? It works good for me.

I have one as a part of my 'Widescreen Movie' press as well as a couple stand alone buttons, 'VS On' & 'VS Off'.

Chris

that's what I try to avoid in the beginning. But if there is no direct IR code, then macro is the only way to go. Thank!

If JVC never did get back to us for a fix to a single IR code ato switch for normal to stretch then that is a shame. They were keeping folks on pins & needles saying that they are aware of this to please wait for firmware update. I think this was nothing more than a JVC oversight and they should of added a quick IR code for this change.

The problem with doing Macro's is that it assumes you are in a certain part of the menu, if you are not then MACRO will not work everytime.

If JVC never did get back to us for a fix to a single IR code ato switch for normal to stretch then that is a shame. They were keeping folks on pins & needles saying that they are aware of this to please wait for firmware update. I think this was nothing more than a JVC oversight and they should of added a quick IR code for this change.
I agree, it is a shame, but it is what it is.
The problem with doing Macro's is that it assumes you are in a certain part of the menu, if you are not then MACRO will not work everytime.
That's true, but........if you include in your macro backing all the way out to the start, it's not a problem. And, if you're in the menu doing whatever, and you get used to backing out to the start, it's not a problem. Yeah, it's a pain, but what else are we going to do?

I've gotten to the point now where I rarely go into the menu anyway, mostly because JVC at least gave us 1 touch commands for Gamma, Color Temp, Users, etc.

Chris

Has anyone been successful at getting the RS-232 port to work? I spent hours trying to get my MainLobby setup to communicate with the projector (using MLGenericSerial). My next step was going to be attempting the connection by using my Homeseer software, but that requires me to learn some scripting (ie already burn out enough trying the simple Mainlobby interface).

Has anyone been successful at getting the RS-232 port to work? I spent hours trying to get my MainLobby setup to communicate with the projector (using MLGenericSerial). My next step was going to be attempting the connection by using my Homeseer software, but that requires me to learn some scripting (ie already burn out enough trying the simple Mainlobby interface).

Yes - works fine for me with my Crestron system. I just plugged it in and it worked. Settings were 19.2k, N, 8, 1 and it required a crossover cable.
- Dave