My setup is a 50" 1080P DLP (Samsung HLS5087W) with a PS3 and an HD cable box both connected through HDMI. I bought DVE and calibrated my settings with it but are these settings ONLY good for DVDs on my PS3? When I watch TV with the settings from DVE it doesn't look right. Even Blu rays don't look right. So if I'm right in assuming that DVE is only good for calibrating the picture for DVDs, how do I get the best settings for other inputs?

Greetings

DVE SD is a best fit for SD material on the Ps3.

It might be somewhat close for HD material, but you really want to use HD test patterns there. This site has free Blu test disc for download ... get it and use it.

Use the optimal HD settings for cable ... but remember that cable signals are quite variable so the optimal HD settings are merely a starting point when you watch cable. You will have to tweak the brightness/color/tint depending on the material you watch.

regards

Thanks for the response Michael. So I guess calibration discs like DVE are really just a waste because you have to change the settings for everything. I hate doing this, I wish there were just settings I could leave for each input and be satisfied. Anyone else have any input on this?

Thanks for the response Michael. So I guess calibration discs like DVE are really just a waste because you have to change the settings for everything. I hate doing this, I wish there were just settings I could leave for each input and be satisfied. Anyone else have any input on this?

This is essentially what I -- and most others I would assume -- do...that is we calibrate a given input (i.e. DVD using a test disk) and then copy those calibration settings to all other inputs and essentially leaves things alone as this will be much much better than otherwise...I actually go one step further -- but there is a dollar cost -- and calibrate using s test pattern generator each different resolution and then copy these to all inputs...

The point being that I do ot worry about source to source variations as most of the problems (i.e. 95%+) have already been covered off through the test disk/test pattern generator calibration...

HTH

Greetings

No, it is not a waste. Think of it this way ...

If you don't do anything ... you get 75% potential. (Let's say)

If you do ... you elevate the image to 90%-95%. Sure some times it is 92% and sometimes it is 89% ... but regardless ... the image is still way better off than doing nothing.

Or are you the kind of person that will let 100% of the kids die because the vaccine will only work for 60% of the kids.

Regards

Copying the settings from input to input doesn't work on all Displays. Especially with analog inputs. My Samsung DLP treats the Component 480p/480i only inputs differently than the component 1080i/720p inputs. My Westinghouse has a different gama curve for the DVI with HDCP input and the DVI without input.

Many manufacturers seem to think that certain inputs will be used for certain things.

Also be aware that your DVD player may or may not have reference level outputs. Cyberhome DVD players seem to be in a color space halfway between Pal and NTSC.

The Xbox 360 plays SD-DVD's in the wrong color space, which can be made worse by changing the settings in the Dash board to adjust the dynamic range of your display.

The PS3 plays Blu-Ray in the wrong color space, Made worse if your Display doesn't support HDMI 1.3.

Having tested the outputs of DirectTV's HD Tivo, Comcasts Motorolla DVR, and a Tatung Set top box for Microsoft Media Room, none of those had even close to the same output.

The short version of this rather long post is that you can only Home Theatre calibration for consumer electronics per Device, Per Input.

If you are using an HDMI Switcher, a reciever with upscaling to Component, or HDMI, your home theater is no long correctly calibrated when you switch devices.