New puppies... 9 weeks old.. So cute the first day.. Day two, Satan arrives!!

I cannot keep this little rug rat away from my expensive cables that are plugged into my components and speakers. Even the Berklines and Buttkickers are fair game to him. Does anyone have any ideas or product suggestions that will help me protect these cables from sure gnawing and destruction??? :eek:

I would appreciate any comments or suggestions??

If it were me, I'd keep him out of the HT until he grows a little.

Cheers,


Dave

Let him chew on a cheap power cord plugged into a wall outlet. It cured my dog real quick, she never did chew on a cord again.

If it's a dedicated HT lock the door otherwise take some horseradish and put a light coat of it on the cables..he won't touch them again.

Puppies at that age need to be supervised 100% of the time or crated. If you see him going to chew on something that he shouldn't a sharp "no" and re-direct him to a safe toy will eventually fix the behavior. You just need to be 100% consistent. The effort in teaching him now and over then next year, will result in the following ten years being much more pleasant.

With our two dogs, collectively I only lost one book to puppy destruction. Never any shoes, furtniture or wires because we stayed on top of it from the beginning. Hope that helps...

Holy water. :D

my expensive cables , I would appreciate any comments or suggestions??


that would be your first mistake

Puppies at that age need to be supervised 100% of the time or crated. If you see him going to chew on something that he shouldn't a sharp "no" and re-direct him to a safe toy will eventually fix the behavior. You just need to be 100% consistent. The effort in teaching him now and over then next year, will result in the following ten years being much more pleasant.

With our two dogs, collectively I only lost one book to puppy destruction. Never any shoes, furtniture or wires because we stayed on top of it from the beginning. Hope that helps...


+1

I am a firm believer of 100% consistency and crate training. We have two dogs and have them crate trained and have had very little problems with the chewing and other behavior problems. Crate training also helps with house breaking if you need another motivator!

However just remember that even with the best training they are still animals and can do things they typically wouldn't do (just like kids); Example last weekend my Golden ate homemade PlayDoh and was sicker than a DOG (yes I know bad pun) and I at one time thought he was going to die! This situation occurred because he wasn't being supervised but he typically doesn't need close supervision since he is far from a pup.

Good luck and happy puppy training!

Regards,

RTROSE

Puppies at that age need to be supervised 100% of the time or crated. If you see him going to chew on something that he shouldn't a sharp "no" and re-direct him to a safe toy will eventually fix the behavior. You just need to be 100% consistent. The effort in teaching him now and over then next year, will result in the following ten years being much more pleasant.

With our two dogs, collectively I only lost one book to puppy destruction. Never any shoes, furtniture or wires because we stayed on top of it from the beginning. Hope that helps...

2nd that! mine just turn a year old last weekend and I know how it is to rise a puppy. and I 100% agree that crate training and limited area access (especially the HT! that would be THE last place he could freely visit imho!) is your best tool and you'll be glad you did for the next 10+yrs!!

also, from some trainer's recommendation, Bengay works too as it's too strong of taste/smell for dogs.

2nd that! mine just turn a year old last weekend and I know how it is to rise a puppy. and I 100% agree that crate training and limited area access (especially the HT! that would be THE last place he could freely visit imho!) is your best tool and you'll be glad you did for the next 10+yrs!!

also, from some trainer's recommendation, Bengay works too as it's too strong of taste/smell for dogs.

Bengay?? That is the first time I have heard that recommendation.... May have to try it. The pup is crate trained and is supervised. The problem comes in when we are playing on the floor. I don't have a dedicated HT room, its more of a general game/family room basement. We will toss toys back and forth but on occassion the little tike will take off behind my TV and speakers before i can get a hold of him and since I don't fit as easily as the pup, I find myself on the other end reaching for him to get out. In the process though, he has munched a wire here and there..... Smart little @#%#.... Here is some pictures of the little monster.... :eek:

http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj47/jbennettj1/IMG_0115.jpg
http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj47/jbennettj1/IMG_0103.jpg
http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj47/jbennettj1/IMG_0105.jpg
http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj47/jbennettj1/IMG_0100.jpg
http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj47/jbennettj1/IMG_0092.jpg

Very cute but I would never allow a pet in my home theater, period.

If the room is multi-purpose then you have a problem. Put that plastic tubing, the kind you use to bundle cables, over you cables. It will offer some protection. Spray it with bitter apple, the stuff you spray on you dog wounds to keep them from licking it.

Or install some cheaper cables until the dog is older (all his teething is done) and trained NOT to chew on stuff.

Let him chew on a cheap power cord plugged into a wall outlet. It cured my dog real quick, she never did chew on a cord again.

Note to self: Dead pets have a 0% chance of doing damage to your belongings.

Thx for the tip!

Note to self: Dead pets have a 0% chance of doing damage to your belongings.

Thx for the tip!

Actually he was real close to electricution. He got behind my desk and started nibling on my shredder's power cable. Before I knew what he was doing I pulled him out and found he had chewed all the down to bare wire on one side and was just a fraction away from removing enough of the protection of the other wire. It was one close call.... Do dogs have 9 lives like cats, if so, I think he just used one....

Thanks for the tips.... I think the thick garden hose over the cable may just do, I have just to find one that isn't green. If not, looks like I will be fencing off all of my equipment and if he thinks of even chewing on the Berklines.... well, the wife can go with him too....

Have you tried the sour apple spray that you can find in pet stores? It helped with ours when she was nipping at our hands.

Have you tried the sour apple spray that you can find in pet stores? It helped with ours when she was nipping at our hands.


Tried it... It's called bitter apple... He licks his lips for a bit then goes on to chew the cord regardless..... Thanks for the thought.

Solution: hotpepperwax (http://www.hotpepperwax.com/)

Remote controlled shock collar for 100lb.+ dogs turned to max power. :rolleyes: j/k

I fostered for a local animal shelter for a few years and my mom still does. We've dealt with more than our share of puppies. Some are more stubborn than others, but even the worst ones generally only require a loud stern attention getter such as "ah ah ah" and then when they look at you say NO! Do it a few times and they learn real quick if it's executed properly.

Picking them up and carrying them away when they're chewing on something doesn't accomplish much. Remember, with dogs, you have to catch them in the act and immediately use your "discipline voice".

Good luck with the cute little guy!

I have found through the years it is easy to train a dog to NOT do something. Dogs can not stand being fussed at by the master (alpha dog). You need to make sure you have three levels of No, that are a severe enough progression that the dog never wants to get past the first level.

1st level: A firm sharp "No". Look at the dog, and make sure they look at you. Use a stern look on your face, with no hint of a smile. Smiles are for happy time, not being dispensing punishment. If you do not get an instance response....

2nd level: NOOOOOOO!!!!! NOOOOOOO!!!!! NOOOOOOO!!!!! Use a booming deep-throated man-voice (even if you are female). Put on a *very* unhappy face, mean looking with violent intent. A good solid foot stomp when you do this adds an extra oommph to it.

3rd level: In the rare case you need to escalate past level 2, use the object that the dog is interested in (a handy cable you keep for this purpose, in your case) as an object of terror. Freak out screaming NOOOO!!! NOOOO!! NOOOO!! NOOOO!! over and over, stomping your feet, following the dog around and very lightly!!! tossing the item to land near the dog. Do some primal caveman screams now and then as well. Let them feel your displeasure as something far, far beyond any possible behavior they might expect. Think total freak-out emotional breakdown, but stay in control of your self of course. No need to do any actual damage to your home, or your pets. You are putting on a performance, not really freaking out.

After 30 seconds or so of this, once the dog has cowered in a corner (and unfortunately, possibly peed on himself), stand there sternly staring at the dog with your stern face again (not a mean face, just stern). And wait. After a bit, call the dog to you firmly but kindly. DO NOT CHASE THE DOG at this point. You may wish to sit down near the dog, which they can rarely resist for make-up puppy love. Pet them but do not smile, just let them know you can be kind and gentle with them.


Using this progression technique works. But you must never ever say "No" without forcing "No" to be absolute. Be prepared to follow through all levels of the progression if you are willing to say "No" at all. If you sometimes mean no, and sometimes don't... or even worse say "no" while smiling and laughing... then a willful dog will lose all respect and will chew your speaker cables.

+1 for this, good advice.

I used to train dogs for a living.

The only thing I would add to the above, is for level 3, when you REALLY need to make an impression, turn the dog over on its back, and growl / boom 'no' in its face. I emphasize, as stated above, you are not physically hurting the dog in any way, just putting on a performance. Holding the dog on its back in this fashion helps firmly establish your dominance, and mimics what dogs / wolves would do in a pack environment.

Good luck!

Thanks guys!! That indeed is some good information... We have been working on the "NO" part of it but haven't been taking it up to the next level as you indicate. I typically will grab the extra skin around his face and look him straight in the eyes and tell him "no". I can understand how turning a dog over could their perspective.

As for the Hotpepper wax, never heard of that product but won't it develop a layer of wax on anything that you spray it on. I mean I am a pretty good shot but it would seem there would be overspray in the house that would attach to walls and carpet. Have you had any of these problems??

When I first posted this thread I thought and was looking for recommendations to alter the equipment whether it would be the suggested conduits, hose, sprays but now it sounds like it is a lesson that I need to teach to the puppy. Who knew we had animal lovers and trainers among us.... Thanks.

Belusch,
Make sure you *always* start with a verbal only "No." Otherwise, if grabbing his face is where you start, you will have to always grab his face. :) Make level 1 be your normal "don't do that new thing you are attempting, or I will freak on you" warning. In other words, saying "No" should be all you ever need after you have established the training.

+1 for this, good advice.

I used to train dogs for a living.

The only thing I would add to the above, is for level 3, when you REALLY need to make an impression, turn the dog over on its back, and growl / boom 'no' in its face. I emphasize, as stated above, you are not physically hurting the dog in any way, just putting on a performance. Holding the dog on its back in this fashion helps firmly establish your dominance, and mimics what dogs / wolves would do in a pack environment.

Good luck!

We've used this technique with great success. Even now that our dogs are past puppydom we still find the need to re-establish dominance. We picked a good technique from the Dog Whisperer when if things get to level 2.5 we do a quick nipping action with our hands to the dogs neck with a sharp noise. It's like when dogs nip displeasure at each other with a quick bite. Works very well and much easier then trying to wrestle and pin a big dog to the ground.

What is "the Dog Whisperer"? Is that a movie like the horse whisperer?

What is "the Dog Whisperer"? Is that a movie like the horse whisperer?

It's a TV show on National Geographic. Cesar Millan is the trainer.

http://www.cesarmillaninc.com/

Belusch,
Make sure you *always* start with a verbal only "No." Otherwise, if grabbing his face is where you start, you will have to always grab his face. :) Make level 1 be your normal "don't do that new thing you are attempting, or I will freak on you" warning. In other words, saying "No" should be all you ever need after you have established the training.


Let me ask this.... Is it always "NO".... I have seen people use "leave it", "no bite', "ouch", etc.... It would seem that we may be confusing the dog with these commands?? So is there one practice that we should continue to use when he jumps on you, bites you, barks, etc. Or in general how would we proceed???

Does that CaesarMillan collar really work???

It's always "no" when I do it. ANd it's being 100% consistent. If the dog jumps, a knee and a no every they do it. You can't correct the behavior one day and then allow it because he's being cute or you want kisses the next day. It's actually harder on the human then the dog. They can learn the rules, we have to set them.

I have no clue if the collar works. But if you can teach the dog to heel, you won't need it. Easier said then done though. We cheat and send our dogs back to the breeder for obedience training. But they spent about as much time "training" us as they did training the dogs.

You might not find it during the winter months but if you look in the home and garden section of Lowes/HD they carry a thick plasitc "wrap" that is designed to be put around garden hoses and other frail structures that are tubular. Basically designed to keep them safe from damage by mowers, weed wackers, etc.

I have some of this protecting where my propane line emerges from the ground to the valve. If I remember correctly it was pretty cheap. It's brown in color too.

I have trained my two labs to not touch things in the house. Landscaping is still a different story :(.

Place [mini trunking] along the sidewall areas near or slightly above the skirting board and then place the cables inside it, easy mate, shouldn’t take more than a few hours. Use liquid nails to hold it to the wall, let it dry off then place the cables in it, no worries mate.:)

http://www.1stconnectnetworks.co.uk/acatalog/UniMIK.jpg

Actually he was real close to electricution.

The 110v probably wouldn't have killed him. If it could, I would have been dead several times over with my electrical skills.:D 220v on the other hand...:eek:

That reminds me of National Lampoon's Christmas Vacation, only it was the cat that got fried by the Christmas lights, after fooling around with the lose wires. :(

http://media.canada.com/a0f01263-155b-494b-a5a0-9e1390560ff6/cv-eddie.jpg

The 110v probably wouldn't have killed him. If it could, I would have been dead several times over with my electrical skills.:D 220v on the other hand...:eek:

Me too... I would have been dead long ago... I still haven't figured out that it is important to turn off the breaker before changing out a fixture or switch. Oh well, we all need a little jolt here and there.... gets yah going!! :D

http://www.cabletiesandmore.com/Chewsafe.php

This is what you need!