I'd like to know how others' bulbs are tracking.

I'm on my 2nd and at 125 hours have lost 30% light so far.

I'm getting less than 12 ftL on my 11' Studiotek scope screen (468 lumens, ISCOIII, D65, 2.2 throw). I think what I'm experiencing is not the norm (I hit 287 with my first bulb and it was still brighter than this one).

I'm back to using my HP screen (with iris closed I get 16 ftL) and while it performs pretty well, I do prefer the blacks on the Studiotek so I have to see if I can move the projector forward.

I'm just curious if anyone can share any bulb data.

Are you saying that after losing 30% you have 468 lumen? Something doesn't sound right.

Keep in mind that's at 125 hours, 200 lamp power, iris open, calibrated to D65, going through an ISCOIII.

If I crank up the lamp power, change to high temperature and remove the ISCO I'm sure the values would go up dramatically, but those aren't real world conditions.

Running only 200w on an eleven foot screen seems a bit conservative. 220 would make more sense IMO.

Keep in mind that's at 125 hours, 200 lamp power, iris open, calibrated to D65, going through an ISCOIII.

If I crank up the lamp power, change to high temperature and remove the ISCO I'm sure the values would go up dramatically, but those aren't real world conditions.

I too use an ISCOIII and fully calibrated, with more hours and have way more lumens. As for your "real world conditions"..........

1. Light loss through an ISCO is negligable (1-2% max, the one I just sold was well under 1%) and will have no effect on the lumens that a PJ produces as its not part of the PJ

2. Full power is a real world condition. Thats like complaining your amp is not loud enough but refuse to turn it up.

My own figure was just over 25% loss at a standard 300hrs.

Hope this helps.

I too use an ISCOIII and fully calibrated, with more hours and have way more lumens. As for your "real world conditions"..........

1. Light loss through an ISCO is negligable (1-2% max, the one I just sold was well under 1%) and will have no effect on the lumens that a PJ produces as its not part of the PJ

2. Full power is a real world condition. Thats like complaining your amp is not loud enough but refuse to turn it up.

My own figure was just over 25% loss at a standard 300hrs.

MY HT5000 has about 21% loss at 320 hours.I thought I'd be swapping lamps to keep the punch but not necessary as yet (six months of use).About 50% 300W for scope films.

Art

MY HT5000 has about 21% loss at 320 hours.I thought I'd be swapping lamps to keep the punch but not necessary as yet (six months of use).About 50% 300W for scope films.

Art

I kept track of my HT5000 output over time and at around 400hrs it had flattened off at 26%. 21% is outstanding.

I miss that machine so much, and it will be a while before my new place is ready.

I too use an ISCOIII and fully calibrated, with more hours and have way more lumens. As for your "real world conditions"..........

1. Light loss through an ISCO is negligable (1-2% max, the one I just sold was well under 1%) and will have no effect on the lumens that a PJ produces as its not part of the PJ

2. Full power is a real world condition. Thats like complaining your amp is not loud enough but refuse to turn it up.

My own figure was just over 25% loss at a standard 300hrs.

Hope this helps.


What I meant by #1 is that I'm measuring a 2.35 picture which is 24% less bright than a 16x9 without the ISCO in place. My ISCO is always in the light path (assume I only watch scope films).

As for #2, any amp would have a much better signal to noise ratio. Have you heard the props in this thing if you turn up the light output? It would drown out dialog. :eek

I must have a bad lamp.

Running only 200w on an eleven foot screen seems a bit conservative. 220 would make more sense IMO.

220 gets me back in the game - 13.7 ftL. I guess I'll try to live with this setting for a bit; I only lasted an hour with the HP.

MY HT5000 has about 21% loss at 320 hours.I thought I'd be swapping lamps to keep the punch but not necessary as yet (six months of use).About 50% 300W for scope films.

Art

Sorry, Art, are you saying that you crank up the lamp to 300 (from 250 I presume) for scope films as a rule - or only when the film is darker and calls for it?

How many footlamberts are you getting?

Sorry, Art, are you saying that you crank up the lamp to 300 (from 250 I presume) for scope films as a rule - or only when the film is darker and calls for it?

How many footlamberts are you getting?

My HT5000 system was virtually identical to Arts and I was still over 20fl after the lamp had "stabilized" at over 300hrs. I think Arts numbers are a bit better than mine.

PS My 1080 fans are not that loud at all with max lamp power.

Could some of the differences be measuring equipment or technique? But since you have had two bulbs ad the second on appears dimmer, you may indeed have a bulb on the low side or below its specks. I'd turn the wattage up and use it until youu are unhappy with the brightness. My bet is your dealer will sell you a new bulb at cost or close to it.

I measured a new C3X1080 with T1 lens today. 1180 Lumens at 250W, 930 Lumens at 200W. Well over 30 ftL at 200W on 110" diag ST1.3 screen. These were measured at calibrated d65. Seems pretty par for the course for these projectors. As it's a customer unit, I won't be able to track the output over time.

Curious, Iris open or closed, and what throw distance? On this PJ, besides power, they both have significant effects on output.

Curious, Iris open or closed, and what throw distance? On this PJ, besides power, they both have significant effects on output.Iris open. Shortest throw from T1 lens - 11ft from 96" wide screen, or throw ratio of around 1.4 x width.

Sorry, Art, are you saying that you crank up the lamp to 300 (from 250 I presume) for scope films as a rule - or only when the film is darker and calls for it?

How many footlamberts are you getting?

No I don't up the lamp for dark films only to get back up close on the fL with the ISCO in and 14' wide. So I use the 300 watt setting for scope films. This gives me a little over 20fL at last my last measurement at 14' wide.

Art

I just replaced my PJ because of the "red dot" issue, which I still have occasionally, but to a much lesser degree. I'm beginning to think that it is more of a cable issue. When speaking to the Robin, the tech at Sim2, he told me that there was some variability in the light output of these projectors, presumably related to the bulbs. I am getting less output on this unit: 12fL at 2.35 140" with 52 hours on the bulb. I have it set to 220 watts now. 16fl with 16x9. On the other unit, I was getting 15fL at about 20 hours on the bulb at 2.35:1.

Jeff

Here is a spreadsheet I prepared for a C3X I had taken measurments on. I found wide variations in outut based on zoom, iris, and power settings. There are 2 tabs that show the changes with power and zoom were linear. So one could extrapolate to about any point using this set of numbers. Of course if they all change significantly with every bulb can't do much with that....

C3X Light Measurments Spreadsheet (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=101194&d=1202272704)

What is the red dot issue?

What is the red dot issue?

Thanks, Gray. I'm measuring 537 lumens at 2.2 throw D65 calibrated at 52 hours.

With the last projector, I was getting a lot of red pixels on black areas of a picture when using 1080p60 only. No problem with 24p or 1080i. I tried different cables, but had the problem with both my XA2 and panasonic players. This was also noticed by Jason Turk on several other units. Since I live in Florida, I took the PJ over to Sims2 in Miramar on Friday. Interesting, it worked fine when I tried it there. Nevertheless, Robin swapped out the PJ. I thought the problem was solved, but I noticed it again when watching the credits at the end of Shrek III. Also saw it with DVE. The red pixels were much fewer, however. Now I haven't seen it at all with the BD30 unit or with satellite upconverted to 60p.

It also is not constant. I could not replicate it the next day. I am beginning to think it may be the interconnect HDMI cable I am using going into the 885 pre/pro. It is the one that came with the machine, only about 3 feet. I am waiting for it to happen again, and then I will swap out the cable. Unfortunately everything is in the rack now :(

While I was "visiting" the Sim2 facility I got to see the inside of the unit, as well as the HT5000. They wouldn't swap mine out for one of those:rolleyes: Anyway, the 5000 unit is a beast with a huge lens, but nice and quiet.

Unfortunately my new unit has a dimmer bulb, but still a very nice picture. About the same misconvergence (~0.3-0.4 pixels) as the last one.

I found wide variations in outut based on zoom, iris, and power settings.

Nice work. Im pretty sure that the HT5000 is actually the cheapest PJ where zoom doesn't kill the output, no coincidence that its one of the cheapest PJ with a pro level zoom unit.

The lenses for the HT5000 are massive, make lenses for lesser projectors, say a piddling C3x1080p, look like toy lenses. Hel the C3x1080 looks like a toy itself sitting next to am HT5000 and the same for looking inside each.

The wider the lens, generally the more light it can transmit. Hell the HT5000 have irises stopped down inside to improve the contrast. These lens are used by a a varity of high end projector manufacturers. They aren't ground at Sim2.


Big wide lenses mean one can use offset and still stay within the non cyrvature area of the lens.

Coldmachine. I am going to be installing one of these with an L01 lens. That's a wide angle, non zoom. Be interesting to see how the image compares to using a zoom.

The "RED DOT" Issue:

Do you eat too much of this candy in your home theater?

Have you ever been a member of the Communist Party? Or perhaps you are a Communist sympathzer?

Its always easy to blame it all on the HDMI cable - everyone's blaming everything on HDMI these days. HD DVD would have won the format war if everyone stuck to component cables!!!

More seriously, could power or grounding issues cause red dot problems in his picture? Assuming his mental state is reasonably sane Communist or otherwise?

Big wide lenses mean one can use offset and still stay within the non cyrvature area of the lens.



I keep telling my wife that my big wide lenses are good for your sex life - but she prefers to stay within the non curvature area, of which I have none!!!!
Little guys like Mark have all the fun!:D

Big wide lenses mean one can use offset and still stay within the non cyrvature area of the lens.



I keep telling my wife that my big wide lenses are good for your sex life - but she prefers to stay within the non curvature area, of which I have none!!!!
Little guys like Mark have all the fun!:D

Big wide lenses mean one can use offset and still stay within the non cyrvature area of the lens.



I keep telling my wife that my big wide lenses are good for your sex life - but she prefers to stay within the non curvature area, of which I have none!!!!
Little guys like Mark have all the fun!:D

The forum is screwed up tonight. I've got three times the posts but Mark gets three times the fun!!###

More seriously, could power or grounding issues cause red dot problems in his picture? Assuming his mental state is reasonably sane Communist or otherwise?

Well, it's been reported by other users. I think it may be a cable issue, since it doesn't happen on lower bandwidth signals. I'm just glad that it does not seem to be the cable in the wall. That one is definitely rated as 1.3a class 2, so it should be okay.

Jeff

Coldmachine. I am going to be installing one of these with an L01 lens. That's a wide angle, non zoom. Be interesting to see how the image compares to using a zoom.

Please report on how that goes, very interesting, is that the 0.67 or the 1.12 throw lens. I assume you will be at a short throw rather than gargantuan screen size. I've always fancied a non zoom. Cheers mark

Well, it's been reported by other users. I think it may be a cable issue, since it doesn't happen on lower bandwidth signals. I'm just glad that it does not seem to be the cable in the wall. That one is definitely rated as 1.3a class 2, so it should be okay.

Jeff

I luv it when folks take me seriously.

I am using an in wall 50' with powered extender DVI Gear Super High Resolution cable which works absolutely fine, no red dots, no sparklies, etc.
But when I watch Bikini Destinations no one has any clothes on. Must be the cable?

Man, I wish I could get 20 ftL. It's incredible how much difference light output makes. 12 ftL is a magic number. Going below is painful - it tires my eyes trying to make out detail - almost as much as an image that is too bright. Getting 14 to 16 is very comfortable. I'm going to have to consider moving my projector forward and building some sort of hushbox - anyone try the latter? Any ideas on how one builds an effective hushbox that doesn't hamper airflow?

Jeff, I've seen the red dot issue on my projector (which is my 2nd, first was swapped) when I first got it, but haven't seen it since.

Sim2 is still getting down to the issue...they have narrowed it a good amount though.