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CONNECTIONS with Sketches for Newbies and Advanced Users, with Explanatory Text

Click one of these links if you want to go directly to that subject without scrolling. At the end of each subject, click the link "Go back to List" if you want to come back here.

Notes
SKETCH 1 for ANTENNA Connections... Plus Detailed Explanation
SKETCH 2 for CABLE Connections WITHOUT Cable Box... Plus Detailed Explanation
SKETCH 3 for CABLE Connections WITH Cable Box... Plus Detailed Explanation
SKETCH 4 for Satellite-only Subscribers or Anyone with Tunerless DVDR... Plus Detailed Explanation
Notes for All Cable, Antenna, and VCR Users... Read This First!
Additional Notes for Cable Subscribers with Cable Box
Notes for Satellite-only Subscribers or Anyone with Tunerless DVDR
Connections for a Complex System with Many Components
Connecting to Your TV - Matching to Your Source
Connecting VCR or Camera to This DVDR for Copying
Snugging-Up Connector Nuts
Where to Buy Cables
Important Note on the "Digital Cliff" (Loss of Digital Tuning)

Notes

1. MAKE SURE ALL EQUIPMENT IS OFF AND UNPLUGGED FROM POWER when making cable connections, esp. if going by FEEL... static electricity! This DVDR has a Standby circuit and an AMPLIFIED COAX PASSTHRU CIRCUIT that always has power when plugged in, even when off.
2. Plug power cord into constant source of power (wall socket or unswitchable power connector) to maintain standby power for settings. Do not turn on/off with external switch that cuts power to the DVDR... use only the Standby/On switch on the unit or the remote.
3. If you have an old TV with ONLY an RF/coax connector (no line inputs), you can use an RF modulator to run cables thru, as shown on pg 16 of the manual and as described here. You can also use a VCR as the modulator, as described here.
   
4. When done connecting, see this post for how to scan for channels with cable or antenna (stationary or rotating)... and this post for info on settings.

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BASIC CONNECTIONS:

1. Incoming COAX to DVDR's ANTENNA IN (top RF connector).
2. COAX from DVDR ANTENNA OUT to TV ANT IN.
3. Video line connection(s) from DVDR to TV (one or all): Yellow AV OUT, COMPONENT RGB OUT, S-VIDEO OUT, or HDMI OUT to TV Input. For Audio, RW (L/R) Audio cables from AV OUT, which supply audio for AV OUT, S-VIDEO OUT or COMPONENT RGB OUT connections. HDMI carries both video and audio, unless you turn the Audio off in the HDMI menu so you can use an AV receiver for audio instead.
4. See "Advanced" Sketch 1A below when you're ready to add some typical, optional equipment.

CLICK HERE for a detailed explanation of Sketch 1/1A.

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BASIC CONNECTIONS:

1. Incoming COAX to DVDR's ANTENNA IN (top RF connector).
2. COAX from DVDR ANTENNA OUT to TV ANT IN.
3. Video line connection(s) from DVDR to TV (one or all): Yellow AV OUT, COMPONENT RGB OUT, S-VIDEO OUT, or HDMI OUT to TV Input. For Audio, RW (L/R) Audio cables from AV OUT, which supply audio for AV OUT, S-VIDEO OUT or COMPONENT RGB OUT connections. HDMI carries both video and audio, unless you turn the Audio off in the HDMI menu so you can use an AV receiver for audio instead.
4. See "Advanced" Sketch 2A below when you're ready to add some typical, optional equipment.

CLICK HERE for a detailed explanation of Sketch 2/2A.

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BASIC CONNECTIONS:

1. Incoming COAX to DVDR's ANTENNA IN (top RF connector), unless you plan to order PPV/VOD programs via the cableco's STB or you have a cable channel guide that allows you to request info for specific programs/dates/times. This DVDR's coax IN/OUT is not bidirectional so, for PPV/VOD/Guide purposes only, use 2-way bidirectional digital splitter on incoming cable coax, with one splitter output to STB and one to this DVDR.
2. COAX from DVDR ANTENNA OUT to STB Antenna In.
3. STB connection(s) to TV: COAX if available + any other line connection, depending on availability and personal prefs.
4. Video line connection(s) from DVDR to TV (one or all): Yellow AV OUT, COMPONENT RGB OUT, S-VIDEO OUT, or HDMI OUT to TV Input. For Audio, RW (L/R) Audio cables from AV OUT, which supply audio for AV OUT, S-VIDEO OUT or COMPONENT RGB OUT connections. HDMI carries both video and audio, unless you turn the Audio off in the HDMI menu so you can use an AV receiver for audio instead.
5. Line Connection from STB/DVR to this DVDR: Yellow RCA to AV IN or S-Video to S-VIDEO IN plus RW (L/R) Audio to AV IN. (STB/DVR output might be named "Out to VCR" or similar.)
6. Set Video > Video Input to match the type of Line Connection made in the step above: "Video In" if Yellow RCA or "S-Video In" if S-Video.
7. See "Advanced" Sketch 3A below when you're ready to add some typical, optional equipment.

CLICK HERE for a detailed explanation of Sketch 3/3A.
PLUS
Additional Notes for Cable Subscribers with Cable Box.

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CAUTION: Do not connect satellite cable(s) to the ANT IN coax connector on this DVDR...sat cables have voltage that could harm this DVDR's circuits.



BASIC CONNECTIONS:

1. Make all Sat connections as instructed in the Sat manual. This DVDR has a separate connection scheme cuz it can't tune the encrypted Sat signal.
2. Video line connection(s) from DVDR to TV (one or all): Yellow AV OUT, COMPONENT RGB OUT, S-VIDEO OUT, or HDMI OUT to TV Input. For Audio, RW (L/R) Audio cables from AV OUT, which supply audio for AV OUT, S-VIDEO OUT or COMPONENT RGB OUT connections. HDMI carries both video and audio, unless you turn the Audio off in the HDMI menu so you can use an AV receiver for audio instead.
3. Line Connection from STB/DVR to this DVDR: Yellow RCA to AV IN or S-Video to S-VIDEO IN plus RW (L/R) Audio to AV IN. (STB/DVR output might be named "Out to VCR" or similar.)
4. Set Video > Video Input to match the type of Line Connection made in the step above: "Video In" if Yellow RCA or "S-Video In" if S-Video.
5. See "Advanced" Sketch 4A below when you're ready to add some typical, optional equipment.

CLICK HERE for a detailed explanation of Sketch 4/4A.

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Notes for All Cable, Antenna, and VCR Users... Read This First!

The coax IN/OUT loop on this DVDR is different than the one on your old VCR or even other DVDRs: it's a built-in amplified splitter. It splits the incoming TV signal between this DVDR's tuner and the next component in the coax path, STB or TV, EVEN IF THAT SIGNAL IS HDTV. It does NOT send any internal DVDR stuff to your TV (menus, channels, HDD, DVD).

For someone new to DVD recorders, this can be best described with an example: if you tune this DVDR to channel 7, the RF/coax output will NOT send channel 7 to your TV... it'll only send channel 7 from one of its "line outputs": Y/W/R Composite, S-Video, RGB Component, or HDMI. The RF/coax output will only send the raw, incoming RF TV signal to downstream components (STB or TV) to tune with their tuners (after scanning for channels in them, of course)... this is called "RF passthru" or "coax passthru."

Note: The LG LRH-780/790 series and possibly other LG DVDRs DO NOT have pure RF/coax passthru... they operate like a VCR thru a TV/DVD button to select coax passthru (TV), or menu and recordings (DVD) thru the coax to TV ch. 3/4 or thru a line output.

Because this DVDR splits the incoming signal, the designers thought the coax circuit should be amplified so no signal strength was lost... maybe even increased slightly. This amplification occurs thru a 4dB amp > Low-Pass Filter (LPF) > 2dB amp as long as this DVDR is plugged in... it doesn't have to be on for this OR for watching TV normally. In fact, unplugging this DVDR from a power source degrades the passthru TV signal signficantly.

More info here on active and passive passthru.
Here's olyteddy's measurement of the input-to-output gain with a Sadelco DisplayMax Meter.
And here's videobruce's test of a 2160 amplified passthru circuit with a spectrum analyzer...
plus an evaluation of the traces by a long-time "Sweep Tech."

Connecting the Coax.
Your first connection should be the incoming coax from antenna or cable on the TOP coax connector on the back of this DVDR (ANTENNA IN). Continue the coax from the bottom connector (ANTENNA OUT) to a VCR (if any), other DVDRs (if any), STB (if any) and TV (see sketches above). That gives you a passthru signal that you can tune with any downstream component with the appropriate tuner (and scanning for channels), whether this DVDR is on or off.

"Line Connection" to TV
The Line Connection shown from DVDR to TV is for seeing things internal to this DVDR (menus, channels, or HHD/DVD titles played in the DVDR)... nothing is sent to the TV from the DVDR's coax output, just the raw signal. You select the approp. "input" on the TV, either the ANT connection to view straight TV, or one of the TV's "Inputs" to view stuff from this DVDR.

S-Video and Component video outputs need L/R (white/red) RCA audio cables also.

On the 2160 only, if Progressive Scan is ON, nothing (or a B&W double-image) is output from Composite or S-Video connection.

HDMI needs the "HDMI" button pressed for 1st-time use.

Don't ass-u-me that HDMI is best for all things, esp. if you're a cable TV subscriber. Cable TV is a compressed Composite signal and this DVDR's HDMI circuit doesn't do a great job in separating the video components like your more-expensive TV does. MY HDMI is NOT best for viewing live TV thru this DVDR, nor is it best for playing recordings from the HDD. It's ONLY best for playing commercial DVDs cuz they're produced with Digital Component Video, YCbCr (RGB or YPbPr is Analog Component). If you're a cable sub., it might be worthwhile to at least TRY Digital Composite cables (better construction and tolerance than std Y/W/R cables)... I got mine from Walmart.

Recording One Channel While Watching Another.
This is prob. the greatest benefit of coax passthru: any components on the coax chain can tune the raw TV signal independently as long as they have the right kind of tuner (analog and/or digital). For example, you can watch one channel on the TV while simultaneously recording a diff. channel with this DVDR or playing something from this DVDR's HDD or a DVD.

If your STB has a coax passthru connection like these DVDRs, and you connect coax from STB to TV, then you could even watch TWO other channels if your TV has PIP! ... after you scan for channels in the TV, of course.

Simultaneous Output of INTERNAL DVDR Stuff (Menus, DVDR Channels, HDD, DVD).
In a single-TV setup, you'll be able to connect all four outputs to a single TV and see internal DVDR stuff by selecting the appropriate INPUT on that TV.

However, for wanting to see the same internal pic simultaneously on two TVs, like in different rooms, you have to use EITHER HDMI and Component OR Composite and S-Video. That's cuz when HDMI/Component are used, the Composite and S-Video outputs will not be active simultaneously... not sure about vice versa (no reports yet).

To connect to more than two TVs for simultaneous viewing, you could use either group of connections and extend one or both with splitters on the output(s) cables you use?

Connecting a Tunerless TV
If you have a tunerless TV, it won't have an antenna connection, so you'll use just the line connection(s) described above.

Combining OTA/Antenna Channels in a Cable TV System
See this help file for how you can add OTA/antenna digital channels 7 thru 13 to this DVDR in a cable TV system.

Go back to List. ...... Go to main list of help files.

Additional Notes for Cable Subscribers with Cable Box (STB/DVR)

Read Notes for ALL Cable Subscribers and Antenna Users first or you might not gain a complete understanding of what connections are needed and why.

If you have a cable box (STB, with or without a DVR), you may have some or all unscrambled channels, but you won't know for sure until you scan for channels with this DVDR, so it needs to be 1st in line on the coax. If placed AFTER the STB, this DVDR would be an "STB slave" (i.e., limited to receiving only the channel the STB is tuned to).

Recording Scrambled Channels from STB or Recorded DVR Programs
For recording channels only the STB/DVR can tune, connect S-Video+L/R audio cables (recommended) or Composite/RCA Y/W/R RCA cables from a STB "Line Out" (might say AV out or Out to VCR?) to this DVDR's AV IN connectors on the back (E1 or L1) or on the front (E2/L2).

Check your STB's manual for "Timers" or "Reminders" that can turn your STB on and/or set it to a channel you specify at a selected time. If your STB has one of these, you only need to set a timer rec program in this DVDR to record unattended programs from your STB. If no such feature on your STB, you'll also have to leave it on the channel you want to record, and you prob. can only do one program this way since there's no way to change channels unattended?

Connecting an STB/DVR to This DVDR
Only one input, S-Video or Composite, can be active at a time on either front or back connectors in the 3575/3576... both front and back S-Video inputs active on the 2160. Composite is the default in the Video > Video Input menu ("Video In") so, if you use S-Video, make sure you select "S-Video In" in that menu for the input you connect to. For another option, see the "More Complex Setup" info/heading below.

If your STB has only one S-Video output (stupid!), you'll have to use a switch (manual or remote-operated) on the single STB output, with one leg going to this DVDR and one to the TV.

Coax Connection between STB/DVR and TV
If your STB has a coax passthru, like this DVDR, and you have an antenna or cable TV connected to this DVDR, connect a coax from the STB to the TV so you can watch a channel on the TV while the STB and this DVDR are tied up recording a channel only the STB can tune. Of course, you have to scan for channels in the TV, and those should be the same as the channels this DVDR can tune by itself... some people find the clear channels they receive w/o the STB aren't worth making these connections.

If your STB does NOT have a coax passthru, and you have an antenna or cable TV connected to this DVDR, and you still want to be able to tune channels on the TV separately, you can use a high-quality, balanced (-3.5dB each output) 2-way splitter on the incoming cable, with one leg to this DVDR and one to the STB, then a coax connection from this DVDR to the TV for signal passthru from this DVDR to the TV. All other connections are as shown in Sketch 3/3A above.

Using This DVDR's Amplified Coax Passthru
Even if ALL your channels are scrambled or you don't intend on recording thru this DVDR's tuner, you should install this DVDR 1st in line for the incoming coax just for the boost in signal strength its amplified passthru will give to downstream components... you might just get "a new TV." See this post for example of boost thru coax. See this post for example of boost thru line input (E1).

For Recording PPV or Video On-Demand (VOD) Programs
If you order PPV or VOD programs that cost extra, and you order that service thru the STB/coax, not a separate tel. line, this DVDR will block the return path to the provider. The same if you have a cable channel guide that allows you to request info for specific programs/dates/times. This DVDR's coax IN/OUT is not bidirectional so, for PPV/VOD/Guide purposes only, use 2-way bidirectional digital splitter on incoming cable coax, with one splitter output to STB and one to this DVDR., so you'll have to use a high-quality 2-way bidirectional digital splitter on the incoming feed (at least 5-1000MHz bandwidth, 5-42MHz return path, and each output marked -3.7dB loss). Connect one output to the STB and one to this DVDR.

Poor PQ with This DVDR 1st on the Coax?
Some people with certain STBs will get a poorer pic or none at all when putting this DVDR 1st on the coax. The channels this DVDR can tune should be clear and high-quality. If you don't see that, you might have to connect the incoming coax to a high-quality NON-amplified digital splitter, with one output to the STB and one to this DVDR.

Combining OTA/Antenna Channels in a Cable TV System
See this help file for how you can add OTA/antenna digital channels 7 thru 13 to this DVDR in a cable TV system.

Go back to List. ...... Go to main list of help files.

Notes for Satellite-only Subscribers or Anyone with Tunerless DVDR

CAUTION: Do not connect satellite cable(s) to the ANT IN coax connector on this DVDR...sat cables have voltage that could harm this DVDR's circuits.

Satellite broadcasts are proprietary and require a sat receiver (STB, with or without a DVR) for tuning, so NO DVDR can tune a satellite signal with its own tuner. The only DVDR connection a sat-only user will need is an S-Video+L/R audio (recommended) or Composite Y/W/R RCA between the sat STB and the AV IN (E1) on the back of the 3575/76, L1 on back or L2 on the front of the H2160.

Adding Optional Antenna or Cable TV
With sat service, you can ADD an outside OTA antenna or good indoor antenna for local channels, or even add cable TV service. This optional antenna/cable service is shown in Sketch 4/4A above connected to the normal ANT IN of this DVDR (top coax connector), and requires an Auto Channel Preset to tune OTA or Cable (Analog/Digital) channels this DVDR can receive independently.

With a Tunerless DVDR
A tunerless DVDR will require a digital converter box (govt coupon-type) for the optional connection shown in the sketch.

"Line Connection" to TV
The Line Connection shown in Sketch 4/4A from DVDR to TV is for seeing things internal to this DVDR (menus, channels, or HHD/DVD titles played in the DVDR). You select the approp. "input" on the TV to view stuff from this DVDR.

S-Video and Component video outputs need L/R (white/red) RCA audio cables also.

On the 2160 only, nothing is output from Composite or S-Video when Progressive Scan is ON.

HDMI needs the "HDMI" button pressed for 1st-time use.

Simultaneous Output from This DVDR
Be aware that, if you use HDMI and/or Component, the Composite and S-Video outputs will not be active at the same time (simultaneously). This is only important for people who want to output to multiple TVs at the same time using different DVDR outputs.

You WILL be able to use all four outputs in a normal, sequential manner if connected to a single TV, i.e., by selecting the appropriate INPUT on that TV. For simultaneous output to more than one TV, see this note.

Recording Channels from the STB/DVR and Copying Titles from the DVR
For recording channels only the STB/DVR can tune, or copying titles recorded on the satco DVR (if any), connect S-Video+L/R audio cables (recommended) or Composite/RCA Y/W/R RCA cables from a STB output to this DVDR's AV IN connectors on the back (E1 or L1) or on the front of the H2160 (L2).

Only one input, S-Video or Composite, can be active at a time on either front or back connectors. Composite is the default in the Video > Video Input menu ("Video In") so, if you use S-Video, make sure you select "S-Video In" in that menu for the input you connect to. For another option, see the "More Complex Setup" info/heading below.

When you want to record something thru the Sat receiver, check your Sat manual cuz some STBs require you to set the STB's output to 480i (DirecTV HR10) and some don't (HR20 and 21) cuz they auto-downconvert the signal via analog output. Can't be any more specific, just things I've read.

ALSO, check your STB's manual for "Timers" or "Reminders" that can turn your STB on and set to a channel you specify at a selected time. If your STB has one of these, you only need to set a timer rec program in this DVDR to record unattended programs from your STB.

NOTE 1: If you connect an optional cable or OTA antenna, use a separate amplifier only if you KNOW your digital signal is weak cuz this DVDR has a built-in amp in the coax passthru, and another amp may "over-drive" that digital signal. See Important Note on the "Digital Cliff" at bottom of this page for info on weak and strong digital signals.

NOTE 2: There are many different satellite receivers/STBs, so the Sketch 4/4A above may not apply to your equipment. Specifically, some receivers/STBs have only one output (stupid!?), which requires a remote 2-way switch on that output with one leg to the TV and one to this DVDR. Also, some might have an RF antenna for local channels, which requires setup per sat/receiver instructions.

NOTE 3: If you don't use an optional antenna or cable, your DVDR will not be able to get its normal time signal at noon and midnight to maintain an auto-clock setting. This might cause clock and timer scheduling problems. If you have time/timer problems NOT related to a power failure, you might have to set your clock manually (1st option in Clock menu) and turn Auto Clock and DST OFF (2nd and 3rd options).

TIP: After you connect the TV, the STB/DVR and this DVDR, pull the plug on everything and plug back in, IN THIS ORDER: the TV, this DVDR, then the STB/DVR. The unplugging resets each unit's standby circuit, and the replugging allows the STB/DVR to do some "handshaking" (like accessories attached to your computer). Otherwise, you may get false copy protection (CP) flags. If things don't work properly, turn all units off and on again, then reverse the turn-on order: STB/DVR, TV, this DVDR.

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Connections for a Complex System with Many Components



For MANY external components, the diagram above shows how Member Charles_I used Switchers to set up his 3576 with a cable STB and six other components: 3 VCRs, 1 DVD player, 1 laser disc, and 1 stereo amplifier. The 2nd Switcher shown (before the TV) could also be an AV receiver with multiple I/O, which would eliminate the separate Stereo Amp.

For multiple inputs to this DVDR, don't forget the front connections (E2/L2) and the 2160's extra S-Video on front, which the 3575/3576 doesn't have.

Someone who just can't stand cables connected in front could connect both Composite video (Yellow RCA) AND S-Video to E1/L1 on the back. For audio, use two RCA Y-cables (available at Wal-Mart etc.) to connect the audio outputs of each device (White/White and Red/Red) to the single audio inputs (W/R) on E1/L1. (Might have to turn only one source on at a time if you get audio interference?) To record from each source, switch between the menu options in Setup > Video > Video Input. If you make one the "default" input, like S-Video for everyday recordings, then switch to Composite only when you want to copy a VHS tape, the odds of having the wrong input set for everyday recording FROM THE EXTERNAL INPUT are reduced... recording thru the tuner isn't affected by this setting.

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Connecting to Your TV - Matching to Your Source

As stated above, you need to connect cable(s) from this DVDR to your TV to see anything internal, like menus, tuner channels, HDD or DVD. You can use Composite (Y/W/R RCA), S-Video+L/R Audio (W/R RCA), Component (R/G/B+L/R Audio) or HDMI. Once connected, you select that TV input to see stuff from this DVDR.

But, which type of cable should you use? That's something only you can ultimately decide, but I think you should start with a TV connection that best matches the type of signal your DVDR RECEIVES:
Cable = Composite.
OTA = Composite (analog) and Component (digital/HD).
Satellite = Composite or S-Video matching the cable type you use from your receiver to E1/L1 on this DVDR... S-Video is usually best.

For your tests, you can use QVC shopping channel for PQ comparisons of live TV since they have static shots, studio lighting, and text always on screen.

I'm on cable TV so my signal is delivered as Composite. To preserve that signal intact to my TV, I use DIGITAL Composite/AV cables (mfg to digital stds, better construction & tighter tolerances than analog cable), RCA or Philips from Wal-Mart ($17)... you can see the high quality construction in the pkg. If you try these and don't like the results, they make outstanding cables for dubbing/copying from and to external sources so no $$$ wasted.

Most, if not all, of today's HDTVs have multiple filters and other circuitry specifically designed to separate the video components in a Composite signal with minimal PQ loss. Experts say separating video components from a composite signal ALWAYS loses some PQ, so why do it BEFORE it gets to that circuitry? By sending my composite signal to the TV unchanged, it goes thru only ONE component separation process, in the TV, just before display. This gives me MY best pic for watching my many timeshift recordings thru this DVDR.

I also use HDMI, a digital connection, for watching commercial DVDs, which are produced with Digital Component Video (YCbCr).... YPbPr is Analog Component Video. See this post for some info on HDMI settings.

If using an old std CRT TV that has only Ant/RF and one or two composite/S-Video connections, use your remote to select "Video" or "DVD" or similar button to switch from a TV channel to the TV's input from the 3575/76. AND DON'T PLACE YOUR DVDR TOO CLOSE TO THAT CRT... electromagnetic interference (EMI) from the pic tube could cause lot of "wonky" problems, including playback stuttering, lockups, and false copy protection (CP) messages with failure to record from that.

Note: Several people have complained about a "dark pic" from their 3575 when using HDMI. One person reported the same via all analog outputs (just tuner-related, all ext. inputs were OK). See "P3" heading here.

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Connecting VCR or Camera to This DVDR for Copying

To copy your VHS home movies to DVD, connect S-Video+L/R audio cables from a VCR output to S-Video IN on the back of this DVDR (E1/L1), if a STB or sat receiver is not already hooked up there. You can use Composite Y/W/R RCA cables, but the quality might be quite as good... I can't see any difference.

Only one E1/L1 input on the back can be active at a time. Composite is the default ("Video In") so, if you use S-Video, make sure you select "S-Video In" in the Video > Video Input menu. If E1/L1 on the back is already occupied or you want greater convenience in temporary setup like this, connect composite RCA (Y/W/R) to the Video/Audio inputs on the front of the 3575/76 (E2) or the additional S-Video input on the front of the H2160 (L2). You can also connect a DV camera with DV/firewire cable to E3/L3 on the front of this DVDR.

Since I do tape transfers only occasionally, I leave composite cables bundled up next to this DVDR for quick front connection. Also, connecting to E2/L2 or E3/E3 leaves your back connection (E1/L1) open for other, more-permanent components, such as a sat or cable box/DVR.

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Snugging-Up Connector Nuts

On every connection that has a nut to tighten, use a SMALL wrench to add just a LITTLE extra tightening at the end. Especially important on all splitter connections.

I use a small, 7/16" open-end wrench. Don't use a large wrench, pliers or any FORCE at all...just a final snug-up with finger tips on wrench.

I had interference once that was caused by an RF/coax input line that I finger-tightened, but I moved the DVDR several times for tests, etc., and it had come loose only about 1/100 of a turn...just enough to cause interference ("scratchiness") in my picture.

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Where to Buy Cables

For online cable purchase, Monoprice and Blue Jeans Cable, both sponsors of the AVS Forums, make excellent cable. Click their ad at top. Both sell good HDMI cables that cost much less than most others... lots of happy customers! In all your cable purchases, make sure they say they're for "digital" use since they should have better construction and tighter tolerances, required for digital systems.

I bought my digital-quality composite cables from Wal-Mart for ~$17, RCA DH9AV or DT9AV. These are great in my system for connection between my 3575 and my 47" HDTV and, if I didn't like them there, they also make excellent cables for dubbing/copying.

I also bought an expensive ($32) Philips HDMI cable from Wal-Mart but wish I'd bought the std 28AWG HDMI cable from Monoprice (~$3-4 ea.) cuz everyone raves about them AND they have ferrite cores (the large cylinders just behind the end fittings) to reduce interference. Here's a 6-ft HDMI cable but they have other lengths. Someone else used a $0.99 cable with ferrite cores and said he got the best pic from it, even better than the same $32 Philips cable from Wal-Mart! I looked high and low locally for ANY HDMI cable with ferrite cores and couldn't find any.

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Important Note on the "Digital Cliff" (Loss of Digital Tuning)

ONE possible, and "surprising," cause of reception problems with DIGITAL channels is the "Digital Cliff" or "Cliff Effect"... a freeze frame or complete disappearance of the DIGITAL signal at the ends of its ideal signal strength. Too weak or too strong a signal can make DIGITAL channels just "fall off the cliff." Wiki info here... and good discussion here.

The Cliff Effect is exactly the OPPOSITE of all our previous experience with ANALOG channels, where we were always trying to get the STRONGEST signal... if we saw "snow" with a properly pointed antenna, we'd just "beef up" the signal strength. Not any more, bubba!

For DIGITAL TV, even your DVDR's signal-strength meter might not tell when the signal's too strong! DIGITAL tuners can be "over-driven" with signal strength and "splatter," so the possibility of a Cliff Effect is NOT indicated in the "meters" some of our equipment has... in fact, one expert says a very strong signal can register normally while it's splattering.

To determine if your signal is too weak or too strong, first do a "Hang-by-a-Thread Test" to see if it's too strong (most likely) and, if that doesn't improve things, add a bidirectional Digital Signal Amplifier to see if it's too weak.

HANG-BY-A-THREAD TEST:

Here's a quick-n-easy prelim. test to determine if your digital signal is too STRONG:

1. Tune a "problem" channel (blank, disappearing, freezing, pixelating, etc.).
2. Unscrew the incoming coax from this DVDR's ANT IN (top) coax connector until it's hanging by only one or two threads.
3. Pull on the cable to make sure the center wire is withdrawn some and not "fully-seated" anymore.

This usually degrades the signal just enough to see if there's any difference... UNLESS you've got coax with the center wire too long, which makes it NEVER lose solid contact. If center wire sticks out beyond threaded nut more than 1/16-1/8" or so, trim it back before doing this test.

If you've got a pic on the problem channel(s) that breaks up, pixelates, freezes, etc... or just plain disappears... this test may clear the pic up. If your channel(s) have been "disappearing" (blue or black screen), they might re-appear with this test.

OR if you never DID get digital channels after a good scan, you might need to do a new Auto Channel Preset with the coax in its attenuated state (still hanging by a thread), then check for presence and stability of your expected digital channel(s)... don't immediately screw the coax in tight cuz if the signal is too strong, it'll splatter again and you won't have proved anything. Once you're convinced that the signal is too strong, then you can use one or more splitters or buy one or more RF attenuators (they're "cheap") for a permanenet installation.

See this post for flamike's successful "coax-on-a-thread" test.

If the quick-n-easy prelim. test suggests attenutation is needed, you can do the following:

1. Remove any amplifiers leading to this DVDR. This might be the solution... no further action required?
2. If no amplifier is inline, install a 2-way splitter on the incoming coax with one output to this DVDR and one to your TV. Note how many -dB each output of the splitter has, e.g., if balanced -3.7dB or unbalanced -3.7dB and -7.4dB, and try both outputs to see if a specific dB-weakening thru the splitter helps. You could also go directly to Step 3 with attenuators... they're pretty cheap.
3. Install one or more signal attenuators of appropriate strength on the incoming coax in front of this DVDR (flamike's attenuator source is here). To help decide which one(s) to buy, here's how flamike used two of the three he bought... however, each system will be diff. and his was a rather complex one that might not apply to anyone else?

Below are a couple of other options for attenuation... don't have any experience with these, but they sound very interesting:

1. Winegard TC-200A Tilt Compensator, $10.95.
   Description: "Coaxial cable attenuates high frequencies greater than low frequencies. This problem is most severe when cascading amplifiers one after another. The signal differences are attenuated to a point where the high frequency signals are so small compared to the low frequency signals that the high frequency signals can no longer be received. The TC-200A Tilt Compensator provides a balanced signal level by compensating for 200 feet of coax cable loss and allowing all signal levels on all channels to be of equal amplitude at distant locations. Therefore, the picture quality on the higher channels will be maintained."
   
2. Winegard TA-8700 Variable Attenuator, $19.85.
   A 75-Ohm attenuator for continuously variable attenuation from 1-17 dB. AC-DC passive.

Attenuating or reducing the signal in front of this DVDR shouldn't affect downstream components (STBs, TVs, other DVDRs, etc.) cuz this DVDR amplifies whatever signal it receives, so those downstream components *should* be receiving about the same signal strength they used to get.

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