Hardware Replacement & Upgrade
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THE SKIP CODES
Using the SKIP Codes (INSTRUCTIONS)
SKIP 079 - HDD/DVD Self-Check & Initialize/Format (plus Power-On Hours)
SKIP 013 - HDD Factory Check... Warning: Wipes Recorded Titles!
UPFRONT ADVICE ON HDD UPGRADE
READ THIS FIRST!
Special Note on Hitachi Deskstar HDDs
Low-Power WD SATA HDDs
HDD PIONEERS & PROCEDURES
Internal HDD Upgrades
External DOCK-AND-PLAY System
Plug-and-Play with Single External HDD
2.5-inch Laptop Systems
HDD REF. TABLES
Researching and Selecting HDD Model
FW-Usable HDD Capacities (~Hours)
Table I. OEM HDD for 357x/2080
Table II. OEM HDD for 2160 (OK for 357x/2080, But NOT 2160A/513/515)
Table III. OEM HDD for 2160A (OK for 513/515) (OK for 357x/2080/2160 w/Adapter)
Table IV. OEM HDD for 513 (OK for 2160A/515) (OK for 357x/2080/2160 w/Adapter)
Table V. OEM HDD for 515 (OK for 2160A/513) (OK for 357x/2080/2160 w/Adapter)
Table A-1. Alternate Hitachi "HCS-GLA" HDD for 2160A/513/515 (OK for 357x/2080/2160 w/Adapter)
Table A-2. Alternate Hitachi "HDS-CLA" HDD for 2160A/513/515 (OK for 357x/2080/2160 w/Adapter)
Table A-3. Alternate Seagate "ST-AS" HDD for 2160A/513/515 (OK for 357x/2080/2160 w/Adapter)
REPLACING OR REPAIRING PARTS
Getting Inside & Removing HDD/DVD... PRECAUTIONS!
Order Parts & Service Manual
Replace DVD Burner
Replace Main Fuse
Replace Fan
Replace SATA Adapter
Open Stuck DVD Tray
Clean DVD Spindle
OTHER INTERESTING STUFF
Power Supply
Expected Component Life & Actual Usage Stats
Using the SKIP Codes (INSTRUCTIONS)
Following are the SKIP/V.SKIP codes and instructions for troubleshooting the HDD/DVD, formatting an existing or new HDD, and providing system info.
With DVDR on live TV and on either HDD or DVD drive, point remote at unit and sequentially press the designated SKIP ### or V.SKIP ### buttons on the remote
all within 3 sec. Press normally and don't hold any down... fast but not so fast you hit a wrong key. There are no other characters required, like dashes (in case someone posts the code with such characters).
For the nitpickers among us (you know who you are): The 3575 and 3576 have a SKIP button but the 2080 and 2160 have a V.SKIP button... same thing. I may have used "SKIP" here inadvertently... or on purpose just to piss you off!
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SKIP 079 - HDD/DVD Self-Check and Initialize/Format
The SKIP 079 procedure operates in two sequential steps: (1) an automated HDD/DVD Self-Check, then (2) an HDD/DVD Initialize/Format IF you click OK.
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STEP 1 - HDD/DVD SELF-CHECK & POWER-ON HOURS
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This is a simple automated check of HDD and DVD cables and communication, to check for a loose or disconnected cable, which can be one cause for HDD errors or stuttering, a tray that won't open, a "Loading" message that never ends, "playback error" messages, etc.
Here's one user's tale of annoying playback errors for 5 months. He finally opened his case
and found the DVD cable almost disconnected (it fell off when he turned DVD drive over).
Self-Check Procedure: With DVDR on live TV and on either HDD or DVD drive, point remote at unit and sequentially press the SKIP 079 buttons, all within 3 sec. This brings up the SELF-CHECK screen shown below and starts an automated self-check, filling in the status of the items it checks.
The "OK" results and HDD POWER ON HOURS should be "immediate"... no delays. For laser diode usage, use
SKIP 321.
To exit the Self-Check, simply turn the unit OFF by pressing the Standby/On (power) button... DO NOT PRESS OK unless you intend to format the HDD and "wipe it clean."
Following are the Items checked and their status Indications, Descriptions, and possible Remedies:
ITEM|INDICATION|DESCRIPTION|REMEDY
DVD CONNECT STATUS:|OK|Connection of DVD is normal|N/A
|NOT FOUND|DVD drive dead or not connected|Open case & check ribbon/FFC cable (see disassy sketches here)
|CABLE ERROR|Ribbon/FFC cable from underside of DVD drive to DVD/HDD PCB is loose or not connected|Open case & check ribbon/FFC cable (see disassy sketches here)
HDD CONNECT STATUS:|OK|Connection of HDD is normal|N/A
|NOT FOUND|HDD dead or not connected|Open case & check ribbon/FFC cable (see disassy sketches here)
|CABLE ERROR|Ribbon/FFC cable between HDD drive and PCB is loose or not connected|Open case & check ribbon/FFC cable (see disassy sketches here)
HDD POWER ON HOURS:|####|Total hours machine ON time. (For laser diode usage, use
SKIP 321.
)|N/A
HDD FORMAT START:|ENTER|Actually "OK" but DON'T PRESS OK UNLESS YOU INTEND TO FORMAT THE HDD AND "WIPE IT CLEAN."|N/A
POWER OFF:|POWER|Press Standby/On button to exit Self-Check|N/A
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STEP 2 - HDD/DVD INITIALIZE/FORMAT
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After a Self-Check has been completed, press the OK button instead of Standby/On if you want to Initialize (make-ready, or "format") an existing or new HDD.
PRESSING OK ON THE SELF-CHECK SCREEN FORMATS THE HDD. YOU WILL LOSE ANY RECORDED TITLES, CLOCK AND TIMER REC PROGRAMS!
"Formatting" is used extensively here even tho the actual operation is "Initializing," which deletes any file info (addressing info) from an existing drive so it appears empty. A brand new, never recorded HDD doesn't have any addressing info to delete, so it's an almost instantaneous process.
Time to Initialize/format a NEW drive is just a sec or so, maybe slightly longer for an existing drive with files on it.
After HDD/DVD formatting, another SELF-CHECK screen appears and the DVDR automatically turns off within 2 sec.
If installing a new/upgrade HDD and you don't see any sign of the HDD in the menus, etc., don't panic, just RECORD something (anything) to the new HDD to activate it and its menu system... select HDD drive and press REC, then STOP after ~10 sec of recording (wait till red REC dot disappears from screen). You MAY also need to start setup from scratch, but the machine will let you know that after powering up.
The HDD FW is contained in a non-volatile memory chip on the HDD/DVD PCB (CBA), providing operating instructions to any attached HDD, which makes each HDD portable from machine to machine, whether Philips or Magnavox, regardless of machine SN, i.e., they are not tied to a specific machine, as some are in the HDTV DVR world.
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SKIP 013 - HDD Factory Check... Warning: Wipes Recorded Titles!
WARNINGS:
- Do not use this test on a new replacement or upgrade HDD. Use SKIP 079 Steps 1 and 2 instead. This test clears all data on a used HDD, including all titles! Clock, settings and timer rec programs remain intact (cuz they're not on the HDD).
- Pressing SKIP 013 IMMEDIATELY activates the HDD Factory Check, with front panel counting elapsed time and wild display at end and TV pic/sound skipping at regular interval, maybe designed as a visual/audible indicator that the test is done?
- Read the description below first and make sure you want/need to do this procedure. Allow at least 1-hour w/no timer programs due to start. Pull power plug to exit.
Operational symptoms of an HDD that might benefit from the SKIP/V.SKIP 013 procedure include skipping/freezing on HDD playback, inability to initialize the HDD with SKIP/V.SKIP 079, inability to Pause manual recording and change channels while paused, etc.
This is really just a check to verify whether or not you have a bad HDD and might need a replacement or upgrade. It can be useful, for example, after you've had a lightning strike nearby or power-loss while recording that you suspect may have damaged the HDD.
To troubleshoot suspected HDD problems,
use the SKIP/V.SKIP 079 Self-Check first to make sure there aren't any loose or disconnected cables or the HDD isn't stone-dead.
Then, for a more in-depth HDD check, use SKIP/V.SKIP 013, which checks the HDD's internal components that we can't fix, like disc media, system and heads. The items it checks will show either OK or NG (No Good).
If anything checks NG, then the RESULT will be NG and you may need a HDD replacement. Things can still work with a NG result... my 3575 refurb does... but the HDD might freeze during playback at certain spots on the HDD (like mine) or exhibit other "odd" bahavior (like twice as long to spin up and show opening menu).
Items checked are the following:
HDD MEDIA READ VERIFY CHECK:|OK/NG|If OK, takes ~39 min. on 2160's or ~44 min. on 357x 160GB HDD. If NG, scan stops at bad spot and moves on to next test. THIS OP DELETES ALL RECORDED TITLES!
SYSTEM AREA CHECK:|OK/NG|Quick!
HDD FORMAT:|OK/NG|Quick!
HDD HEAD CHECK:|OK/NG|Takes 1-2 min.
HDD HEAD ESCAPE:|OK/NG|Quick!
RESULT:|OK/NG|41-46 min. to final result on 160GB HDD (longer on larger drives). If any item NG, this will be NG. Pull power plug to exit.
- Note 1: Unknown if any differences or special precautions with non-OEM PATA or alternate SATA HDDs. Theoretically, should be none? Still need someone to test a 2160A's SATA HDD and report "MEDIA READ" time.
- Note 2: Unknown effect of timer rec program scheduled to start during this process. Probably doesn't start since HDD is busy with a system test? Best to have 1 hour or more before next timer program start for a 160GB HDD, longer for larger drives.
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UPFRONT ADVICE ON HDD UPGRADE
READ THIS FIRST!
Some important info you'll need to know:
- DVDR Warranty: Opening your unit and mucking around inside will void any warranty you might have.
- OEM HDD/System Types: The 3575/3576/2080/2160 are PATA-based units and came with IDE/PATA HDDs (Parallel ATA, or Advanced Technology Attachment). IDE and ATA are technically the same, just tradenames of diff. mfgrs. These DVDRs are plug-and-play if installing another PATA HDD. They can also use the newer Serial ATA (SATA) HDDs by adding an IDE/SATA Adapter to connect the smaller SATA drive connector to the 40-pin PATA PCB connector in those DVDR's. The Adapter used by Auskck and many others is here.
The 2160A/513/515 are SATA-based, a newer Serial ATA standard. They already have a SATA HDD, so it's just plug-and-play if using another SATA drive... no adapter needed.
- Jumper Setting: Odds are your new HDD should be set correctly for use in this DVDR, esp. with SATA HDDs where jumpers are only for enterprise use (servers, etc). If you install and format and it appears not to work, only then should you need to check for a jumper and its setting. If needed, here's WD's info on jumper setting, and here's Seagate's info. (Hitachi HDD division was bought by WD in March 2011.)
- Formatting: The SKIP 079 procedure described above will Self-Check and Initialize (make-ready) an existing or new HDD. On an existing HDD, this "deletes" timer programs and recorded titles (removes "pointers" to those files). After Initializing, you should RECORD live TV (anything) to the HDD to activate it and its menu system... select HDD drive and press REC, then STOP after ~10 sec of recording (wait till red REC dot disappears from screen). You MAY also need to start setup from scratch, like a new unit right out of the box.
- Orientation: There is no rightside up or upside down with HDDs. They have heads on top and bottom of platters, so some are always upside down. To facilitate fit, esp. with a SATA adapter, install either way, as appropriate. See Seagate note on this.
While a HDD can be sideways or upside down, THE DVD DRIVE CAN'T! Please don't operate your DVDR in a vertical (sideways) position. Horizontal and top up only! ... And you thought this was obvious, didn't you? Think again!
- Rotational speed: You can use any of the normal HDD speeds (5200-7200) since it makes no diff. in our simple DVDRs. In fact, the original 3575 came with a 7200rpm Seagate, but the latest and greatest 515 comes with a 5700rpm Hitachi CinemaStar.
- Sector format: Stick with drives that are designed with a sector format of 512 bytes/sector. New, "advanced" format drives are becoming available but PeterTheGeek, who has been studying the inner workings of our HDDs, recommends the "old" faithful: 512 sector format.
- Ribbon Cables: For an internal PATA>PATA or SATA>SATA HDD replacement or upgrade, you don't need to remove any of the thin ribbon cables from the green HDD adapter board or from the PCBs. Just remove the adapter board with its cable still attached from the end of the HDD. Dartman's adapter was in so tight he needed a small screwdriver to carefully pry on each end, in very small increments, to work the adapter loose, then it was easily removable by hand... no "rocking" side to side (to prevent smearing of the thin conductors and creating an electrical contact path between them.)
For external upgrades where you have to remove and reinstall the ribbon cable, like a PATA>SATA conversion, you need to carefully unlock the small clamshell lock on the end of the ribbon cable in the green adapter board on the HDD, then remove the cable from the board; pull straight out WITHOUT rocking it side-to-side. Reinstall the ribbon cable straight in, also WITHOUT rocking.
See this post and pics by DigaDo for views of a PATA adapter w/ribbon cable and black clamshell lock installed in a PATA drive. A SATA adapter in a SATA drive should look about the same.
See this short post on ribbon cable tips, esp. if you end up with a HDD the machine can't find.
- SATA Adapter: The 2160A.513/515 have SATA HDDs so they already have a SATA Adapter to connect the HDD to the PCB op. data cable. They also have a SATA-type connector for the HDD power cable. The other models all have IDE-PATA HDDs and a diff. type of power cable/connector. Our Pioneers have been using 3rd-party IDE-SATA Adapters, primarily this one (~$14), to convert their units to SATA HDDs. One "handyman" bought the OEM SATA Adapter from Funai (~$12) and added a connector for the SATA power cables as described and pictured here.
- SATA Cables: Most SATA cable connectors also have a clip that secures the cable to the SATA device. These clips may be metal or plastic, and the plastic clips are more easily breakable. Look for a clip on the underside of the connector and carefully lift it up before pulling a SATA cable. See typical cable here.
- Power Specs: When looking for a replacement or upgraded drive, try to stay as close as possible to the power specs (W) of the original OEM DRIVE (160, 320 or 500GB), as listed in the HDD Tables below. We know the designers picked each unit's HDD to operate efficiently at the designated power (W) levels. Based on the typ. OEM HDD OpW spec of 6.4 and on actual experience of our Pioneer upgraders* with higher OpW HDDs, my recommendation is to stay within 30% of the OEM spec, or no more than 8.3 OpW. See the Power Supply section below for more info.
*Some examples: two upgrade Pioneers have used an 8.77W/8.40W Op/Idle drive in their 3575's, one in Mar 2009 and one in Feb 2010, both with no ill effects.
- Do not cover the small breather hole in HDDs, and don't put your finger on it (or it'll ingest your greasy boogers on startup). Hitachi's breather hole is in back-top area.
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Special Note on Hitachi Deskstar HDDs
Info on all Hitachi Internal HDDs.
Some boo-birds might deride Deskstars by mentioning they used to be called "Deathstars" but that was in the days that IBM made them (1994-2003).
Hitachi bought IBM's HDD division in 2003, so IBM "Deathstars" might have been sold for a time after 2003 as sellers cleaned out existing stock. If you get a Deskstar with mfg date between 1994 and 2003, you prob. have one of the IBM "Deathstars" and should return it?
An interesting section of a Wiki article on HDD "Disk Failures and their metrics" caught my attention as it relates to the OEM Hitachi HDDs used in the Mag 2160, 2160A and 515:
"
A 2007 study published by Google suggested very little correlation between failure rates and either high temperature or activity level; however, the correlation between manufacturer/model and failure rate was relatively strong. Statistics in this matter is (sic) kept highly secret by most entities.
Google did not publish the manufacturer's names along with their respective failure rates, though they have since revealed that they use Hitachi Deskstar drives in some of their servers."
Google has mfgr-related statistics they won't reveal on HDD failure rates, but they DID choose to reveal that they use Hitachi Deskstars in their servers... hmmmmm!?
Backblaze, a company that mfgrs storage pods, also favors Hitachi drives. As they say
here:
"We are constantly looking at new hard drives, evaluating them for reliability and power consumption. The Hitachi 3TB drive (Hitachi Deskstar 5K3000 HDS5C3030ALA630) is our current favorite for both its low power demand and astounding reliability. The Western Digital and Seagate equivalents we tested saw much higher rates of popping out of RAID arrays and drive failure. Even the Western Digital Enterprise Hard Drives had the same high failure rates. The Hitachi drives, on the other hand, perform wonderfully."
UPDATE: On 3/7/11, Western Digital bought Hitachi's Global Storage Technologies unit.
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Low-Power WD SATA HDDs
See this post for info on some Western Digital (WD) drives that are
low-power alternatives to the original OEM drives or Alternates listed in the tables below.
Please note that, in your analysis of HDD power reqmts, IdleW (power used during idle) is essentially irrelevant to the 2160/2160A/513/515 since they are seldom in an idle state... they're almost always auto-recording in the background. Thus, OpW or read/writeW (power during typical user ops) is the only power stat of real interest or consequence for them. However, IdleW is
very important for the 3575/3576 since they're idling a lot.
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Internal HDD Upgrades
Following are A FEW of the Pioneers who upgraded their internal HDD... I stopped adding people since the concept of "Pioneers" has long since been made irrelevant. External upgrades are in next subject.
Click on a Pioneer's name to bring up the Private Message (PM) menu for asking questions directly and privately. Just be aware that some Members are not always available/online and may not respond. If so, just click the "Post Reply" button at top or bottom of this page, ask question or make comment, and other currently active members will be happy to help.
The Pioneers in RED have written STEP-BY-STEP procedures.
The other Pioneers didn't write step-by-step procedures but they still provide info on HDD used and other tips.
1. DARTMAN... 1/18/09... 3575... 250GB WD Caviar Blue PATA.
He used a drive he had used externally on a different DVDR. It's the same basic "type" of drive with power specs close to the Seagate 250GB PATA drive.
His post on his successful upgrade is here. He's been running it to check for any long-term operating effects and has found none so far, just an increased HDD capacity at 2-hr-SP rec mode from 66 to 105 hours.
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2. DIGADO... 3/21/09... 2080... 160GB Seagate ST3160215 ACE PATA (Table I below).
This doubled his 2-hr-SP rec mode capacity from 33 to 66 hrs,
as described here. A ton of pics
here. No long-term operating effects expected here since a Seagate 80GB drive is an alternative found in the 2080 and it has same op specs as the larger Seagate 160GB he used.
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3. AUSKCK... 3/25/09... 3575... 500GB WD Caviar SE16 WD5000AAKB PATA.
This drive increased his 2-hr-SP rec mode capacity from 66 to 211 hrs,
as described here. No long-term adverse effects to date.
This WD drive uses 8.77W Op, 8.40W Standby. If concerned about power but really like WD drives,
see this list of lower-power WD SATA drives, which would require the IDE/SATA adapter others have used for the 3575/3576/2080/2160, but not needed for the 2160A.
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4. AUSKCK... 3/27/09... 3575... 500GB Hitachi 3.5" Deskstar P7K500 HDP725050GLA360 (0A35415) SATA and 500GB Hitachi 2.5" Travelstar 5K500.B HTS545050B9A300 (0A57915) SATA.
He sequentially upgraded to 3.5" 500GB SATA, 3.5" 1TB SATA (which formatted to 500GB so he removed), and 2.5" 500GB SATA, all using a
SATAIDE-2 Adapter. SATA drives are the newest technology, quickly replacing the older PATA technology so they're widely available.
Raunch had previously installed a 750GB PATA drive and the FW only allowed 500GB capacity. Auskck found the same with his 1TB SATA, so he now has the 500GB SATA installed for long-term testing.
He describes his 500GB SATA replacement procedure here, plus his use of a
Hitachi Travelstar 2.5" Notebook Drive 5K500.B HTS545050B9A300, and his preliminary work on an external "Dock-and-Play" system, which is fully described in the "dock-and-play" section below.
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5. MREEDELP... 2009... 4 ea. 3576 and 3 ea. 2160... 500GB PATA.
He has 12 units: 7 Philips 3576's and 5 Mag 2160's. He upgraded to 3.5" 500GB HDDs in 4 Philips and 3 Mags.
He describes how he uses all 12 units here.
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6. TI-TRIODES... 6/4/09... 3575... 500GB Seagate ST3500830ACE PATA.
Besides dramatically increased capacity, he says he now gets a
"markedly sharper" picture than before.
He describes his installation here, and
he updates his experience here.
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7. BORDERSHY... 7/28/09... 2080... 250GB Maxtor DiamondMax 10 PATA.
He replaced orig. 80GB PATA with a 4.5-year-old 3.5" Maxtor
DiamondMax 10 250GB 16MB/7200RPM PATA. This tripled his HDD storage capacity,
as described here
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8. ALITIN... 8/9/09... 2160A... 500GB Hitachi Deskstar HDP725050GLA360 SATA.
This is the alternate drive listed in Table A-1 below. (Direct replacement HDDs for 2160A are listed in Table III.)
His procedure is described here.
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9. BODHI78... 10/11/09... 2160... 500GB Hitachi Deskstar HDP725050GLAT380 PATA.
He describes this upgrade here.
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10. SAM ONTARIO... 11/8/09... 2160A... 640GB WD Caviar Green WD6400AACS SATA.
See series of posts with not a lot of details,
starting here... and
ending here. He originally thought it didn't "take" but learned from some early Pioneers that you have to REC something to a new HDD after a SKIP 079 initializing to activate the HDD and add the menu structure, etc. This upgrade also finally determined that the 2160A's FW DOES limit a HDD upgrade to 500GB, since he got 413 EP hours for his new 640GB drive, which is the expected EP capacity for a 500GB drive.
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11. BUSEY... 11/12/09... 2160A... 500GB Hitachi Deskstar HDP725050GLA360 SATA.
This is the alternate drive listed in Table A-1 below. (Direct replacement HDDs for the 2160A are listed in Table III.)
Click here for excellent, step-by-step instructions.
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12. PAINTMODEL... 1/3/10... 3575... 500GB Seagate ST3500418AS.
This is the drive listed in Table A-3 below. He reports a noticeably better pic with the unpgraded HDD.
He has some notes and recommendations here.
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13. JOEKUSTRA... 2/5/10... 2160A... 500GB Hitachi DeskStar HDP725050GLA360 SATA.
This is the alternate drive listed in Table A-1 below. (Direct replacement HDDs for the 2160A are listed in Table III.)
Click here for his upgrade procedure, INCLUDING SOME IMPORTANT NOTES ON HDD REMOVAL. Note his workarounds for some things
YOU may also run into during HDD removal.
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14. NOEND7... 2/12/10... 3575... 500GB WD Caviar SE16 WD5000AAKB PATA.
This is the same drive used by Auskck in his first upgrade.
He has some SPECIAL NOTES on things he ran into that should help others with their upgrades here.
This WD drive uses 8.77W Op, 8.40W Standby. If concerned about power but like WD drives,
see this list of lower-power WD SATA drives, which would require the IDE/SATA adapter others have used for the 3575/3576/2080/2160, but not needed for the 2160A.
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15. MICKINCT... 5/16/10... 2160A... 500GB Hitachi 7K1000.C Series SATA II DeskStar HDS721050CLA362.
He bought this drive from NewEgg.com for $39.95.
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16. GMACTED... June 2010... 2160A... 500GB Hitachi 7K1000.C Series SATA II DeskStar HDS721050CLA362.
He replaced orig. 160GB SATA with a Hitachi 7K1000.C SATA II.[/B]
He states that it has performed "flawlessly" so far.
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17. BODHI78... 6/25/10... 2160A... 500GB Hitachi 7K1000.C Series SATA II DeskStar HDS721050CLA362.
After upgrading his original 2160 to a 500GB DeskStar PATA on 10/11/09, he upgraded again to a 500GB DeskStar SATA, same as MICKINCT above.
His step-by-step procedure is described here.
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18. TI-TRIODES... 7/5/10... 2080... 3.5" 500GB PATA AND 2.5" 500GB Hitachi Travelstar 5K500.B HTS545050B9A300 (0A57915) SATA.
Upgraded two units. He was able to secure the smaller 2.5" drive with one screw in the 3.5" mounting bracket,
which served as a good ground, and some double-sided tape,
as he describes here.
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19. PETERTHEGEEK... 8/28/10... 2160A... 500GB 2.5" WD AV-25 WD5000BUDT SATA.
This WD drive is optimized for 24/7 ops, HD video and low power. He was able to secure the smaller drive with TWO screws in the 3.5" mounting bracket,
as he describes here.
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20. ABULA... 8/29/10... 2160A... 500GB Samsung HD502HI SATA.
These appear to be phasing out, he got his for $38.
He describes his upgrade here.
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External Dock-and-Play System
AUSKCK... 4/27/09... 3575 and 3576... FIRST Dual-Unit Dock-and-Play System with PATA>SATA Conversion
One user, dfw515, has THREE DVDRs externalized... two 3575's and one 515. However, he used all different parts than Auskck, including the Thermaltake BlacX ST0005U dock mentioned below.
However, the king of externalizing so far might be
PeteMI with EIGHT external HDDs but he hasn't offered any details of his setup, procedures, parts used, etc.
Auskck's initial post on dock-and-play system. ...
Pics of his system in test and finished
First external dock-and-play system with "Toaster" (external docking station) for his PATA-based Philips 3575 and 3576, replacing the internal HDDs with 5 external, portable, swappable SATA HDDs. If you have a SATA-based model (2160A/513/515), you don't need the "IDE/SATA adapter" mentioned there.
Auskck's update on his dock-and-play system. He links back to his initial post so, again, if you have a SATA-based model (2160A/513/515), you don't need the "IDE/SATA adapter" mentioned there.
Pic of Auskck's Setup 8/3/09 - 1st External Dock-and-Play System, PATA>SATA Conversion of 3575 and 3576
|
Stacked only for pic purposes
. YOUR enclosure and dock can be anywhere that's cable-length from DVDR. Enclosure provides power to dock, which connects to an eSATA cable coming from the DVDR. Cables
never
need to be disconnected or reconnected for daily ops or switching HDDs!
Some docking stations for both 2.5" and 3.5" drives are shown here. So far, these DVDRs don't seem to be "fussy" about which kind and brand of dock is used. Two people, dfw515 and PeterTheGeek, use
this Thermaltake BlacX ST0005U dock.
Auskck's writeups don't give a detailed step-by-step procedure all in one place, but Scottypa wrote a VERY detailed procedure for his 2160A externalization described in next section below... same basic procedure for the inside work but diff. connectors and cables, single enclosure, and NO docking station. Scottypa "nibbled" a piece out of the top edge of case on back to run the external cable.
gm2040 used Scottypa's procedural steps as a guide but cut 3 louvers in the intake air vent on the side and bent them back for his external cable. He added a rubber grommet to protect the cable.
Pics of his single-enclosure no-dock mod is here.
Better yet: PeterTheGeek found and tested a
SATA Male 22-pin to eSATA 7-pin PANEL MOUNT that fits perfectly on the SATA connector already on the HDD in the 2160A/513/515. A similar connector might be found for the PATA models?
His post is here, and below is a pic of the connector he used:
Panel End (mount on back panel)
|
PCB End (plug into SATA PCB)
General Info
These DVDRs allow recording, storage, and playback with multiple external "dock-and-play" HDDs, making these DVDRs more versatile than any other SDTV recorder in N.A., and even some HDTV DVRs.
This is the way to go for a "HDD farm" if a user has multiple HDDs he/she wants to swap out on a "regular" basis since you don't have to fool with a plug-and-play cables at all... it's a simple dock-and-play.
Auskck replaced his 3575 and 3576 internal 160GB Seagate
PATA drives with an external enclosure and "Toaster" (docking station or hard drive dock) for swapping FIVE
SATA drives so far on and between the DVDRs... a "dock-and-play HDD farm." Others have even more HDDs in their "farms" and swap between Philips and Mag HDD DVDRs.
A multi-bay enclosure like that shown in Auskck's pic above protects inactive drives
and provides the 5V/12V power reqd for the active 2.5" or 3.5" HDD in the dock, reducing the recorder's internal heat and the HDD's stress on the recorder's power supply and circuits.
Drive swaps take Auskck less than 1 min. cuz
he turns his 3575 and 3576 off to make the drive swap. That method apparently allows the machine to boot up in a normal manner, check for a good HDD and make it immediately recordable or playable with no further user action. gm2040's single-enclosure approach mentioned above shuts the external drive down when he turns off the DVDR and turns it back on again when he powers back up.
Drive FW is NOT installed on the HDD, and previously used HDDs are NOT auto-formatted when connected (like in some other recorders), so each machine immediately recognizes the new drive, with all titles, user settings and timer rec programs intact on each machine! There's no reqmt to be mated (and limited) to a specific machine SN, as some HDTV DVRs are reqd to do. Also, unlike HDTV DVRs, external drives can be disconnected w/o losing everything (e.g., Tivo). All this makes the HDDs portable between externally configured PhilMag DVDRs.
Even tho SATA drives are hot-swappable in computers, our Pioneers say it's not possible since the machine has to "recognize" the drive on machine startup. In fact, for now, drive swaps should only be done AFTER you see the blue or grey screen on your TV, indicating the drive and all ops have fully stopped, which is 10-20 sec AFTER you power the DVDR off.
For
3575/3576/2080/2160, which have a PATA drive, you'll have to ADD an
IDE/SATA Adapter like this one to connect to the existing 40-pin IDE cabling and allow SATA/eSATA cabling to the exterior. You can also order a SATA Adapter from Funai (~$12) but it'll need a "simple" mod. to add the PATA power connector,
as described and pictured here.
The 2160A and MDR follow-ons don't need an adapter, they already have a SATA drive.
In deciding on
your approach to a HDD farm, you might read some descriptions that mention "eSATA" when they're using std internal SATA drives. Just be aware that there are SATA AND eSATA HDDs, but their cable interfaces are not compatible with each other,
as described in this Wiki article. An eSATA interface is deeper and ruggedized for repetitive connection/disconnection... which is NOT needed when using a HDD docking station (cables stay connected at all times).
You don't need to use eSATA HDDs, just normal SATA drives. Many people say "eSATA" when they mean they "externalized" their std SATA drives thru an eSATA drive enclosure. That's the simplest approach and least costly cuz SATA drives are widely available and reasonably priced, as are single and multiple eSATA drive enclosures.
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Plug-and-Play with Single External HDD
SCOTTYPA... 12/08/09... 2160A... Externalized 500GB Samsung 500GB Spinpoint F3 HD502HJ SATA in Rosewill RX35-AT-SC eSATA External Enclosure
He replaced orig. 160GB SATA with an externalized 3.5" HDD in a single Rosewill enclosure (not multi-bay like Auskck) and with NO docking station.
Click here for step-by-step instructions.
Some single-drive eSATA enclosures are shown here.
In either case, you'll need the coupler, SATA extender cable and SATA/eSATA conversion cable listed in Scottypa's procedure,
which are the first three items here, to convert the internal SATA connection of a
2160A/513/515 to an external eSATA connection for the enclosure.
Here's another SATA/eSATA conversion cable that you can order in 0.5-meter (~1.5 ft) or 1-meter (~3 ft) lengths.
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2.5-inch Laptop Systems
For an
INTERNAL or EXTERNAL setup, you could also use
Hitachi Travelstar 7K500 2.5" drives or Auskck's (#4 above)
Travelstar 5K500.B 2.5" drives, both made for laptops and which use MUCH less power than 3.5" Deskstars... 0.5-0.69W idle and 1.4-1.8W operating... amazing, to say the least! If you go this route, make sure you get a Dock that fits both 2.5" and 3.5" drives.
For internal installation, Auskck and Sydyen used alternate mounting methods for their 2.5" laptop drives like the Travelstar. They must be securely mounted to prevent vibration and movement while operating, but they don't fit in the same 3.5" screw holes, so Auskck mounted his 2.5" with Velcro.
Sydyen mounted 2.5" 5400 rpm drives on wood blocks in two of his DVDRs and has been running them for over a year, with heavy editing and fragmentation. He reports no problems at all. In fact, he says he no longer worries about the Divide/Delete editing bug that can occur sometimes... he does it all the time with his 2.5" drive units.
Ti-Triodes mounted his 2.5" drive with one screw in the 3.5" bracket and double-sided tape,
as described here.
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Researching and Selecting HDD Model
For researching mfgr's specs and availability of various HDDs, I've found no better website than
newegg.com. Enter a HDD model # in the Search box at top. Below the pic of the drive will be mfgr's info and a product page with the specs you need to know or a link to download the mfgr's spec sheet.
Use the tables below to see which HDD series and model # was one of the original OEM drives found in these DVDRs or Alternates used by some upgraders. As drive technology advances and those listed drives become harder to find, use the info in the tables to find either the newer models of same series or other drives with same specs... esp. the 512 bytes/sector format. Personally, if choices and budget permit, I'd look for drives that specify they're for "AV" or "DVR" operation, esp. for the 2160/2160A/513/515, which are *always* auto-recording.
Funai does not stock or sell HDDs.
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FW-Usable HDD Capacities (~Hours)
Rec Mode|80G|160G|250G|320G'|500G²
1-hr-HQ|15|33|51|61|103
2-hr-SP|30|66|103|126|206
2.5-hr-SPP|38|82|129|158|258
3-hr-LP|45|99|155|190|310
4-hr-EP|60|132|206|253|413
6-hr-SLP|90|199|310|384|620
'Some
replacement 300 and 320GB drives may be seen by FW as "non-std" and MAY format to ~250GB capacity,
as reported by TimeLine62 and dfw515 here (3 posts).
²Largest capacity allowed by our FW in ALL models. 640 & 750GB have been recognized but limited to 500GB usable capacity. On 3/17/12,
Mickinct tried a 1TB Seagate in a 515 with SuperFW 727V and the 515 said it couldn't use that HDD, not even 500GB of its capacity.
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Table I. OEM HDD for 357x/2080
Much has changed since the original IDE/PATA HDDs for the 357x/2080 were procured and installed in 2006-2007, so finding the latest SATA drives (and IDE/SATA adapters) with much lower Idle power reqmts should be pretty easy.
Seagate DB35 Series PATA, One Confirmed OEM HDD in 357x/2080
Special Note on Hitachi Deskstar HDDs
GB|PATA Model #|OpW|IdleW|H x W x D in.|H x W x D mm
80
|
ST380215ACE
|
5.0
|
4.8
|0.787 x 4.010 x 5.787|19.99 x 101.6 x 146.6
160
|
ST3160215ACE
|
5.0
|
4.8
|0.787 x 4.010 x 5.787|19.99 x 101.6 x 146.6
250|ST3250820ACE|8.2|9.3*|1.028 x 4.00 x 5.787|26.1 x 101.6 x 146.99
320|ST3320820ACE|8.2|9.3*|1.028 x 4.00 x 5.787|26.1 x 101.6 x 146.99
400|ST3400820ACE|8.2|9.3*|1.028 x 4.00 x 5.787|26.1 x 101.6 x 146.99
500|ST3500830ACE|8.2|9.3*|1.028 x 4.00 x 5.787|26.1 x 101.6 x 146.99
*For 250-500GB upgrades, there are better options than this 5-yr-old drive series. The higher-capacity drives use a significantly higher IdleW power draw (+94%) compared to the OEM 80/160GB drive for which the 2080/357x were designed... and 2080/357x are at Idle a LOT compared to a 2160/513/515. See Table II for a lower-power PATA HDD for the 2080/357x as a direct replacement. Also see Tables III-V or Tables A-1-A-3 for better OEM or Alternate lower-power SATA HDDs you can use in a 2080/357x by adding an
IDE/SATA Adapter like this.
Do not cover the small breather hole in HDDs, and don't put your finger on it (or it'll ingest your greasy boogers on startup). Hitachi's breather hole is in back-top area.
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Table II. OEM HDD for 2160 (OK for 357x/2080, But NOT 2160A/513/515)
Hitachi 7K500 Series "GLAT" PATA, One Confirmed OEM HDD in 2160
Special Note on Hitachi Deskstar HDDs
GB|PATA Model #|OpW|IdleW|H x W x D in.|H x W x D mm
160
|
HDP725016GLAT80
|
6.1
|
3.3
|1.028 x 4.00 x 5.79|26.1 x 101.6 x 147
250|HDP725025GLAT80|6.1|3.3|1.028 x 4.00 x 5.79|26.1 x 101.6 x 147
320|HDP725032GLAT80|7.9|4.5|1.028 x 4.00 x 5.79|26.1 x 101.6 x 147
400|HDP725040GLAT80|7.9|4.5|1.028 x 4.00 x 5.79|26.1 x 101.6 x 147
500|HDP725050GLAT80|7.9|4.5|1.028 x 4.00 x 5.79|26.1 x 101.6 x 147
HD=Hitachi DeskStar
AT80: AT=PATA, 6=16MB cache, 8=8MB cache, 0=Reserved
Cache size makes NO noticeable difference in our DVDRs.
Do not cover the small breather hole in HDDs, and don't put your finger on it (or it'll ingest your greasy boogers on startup). Hitachi's breather hole is in back-top area.
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Table III. OEM HDD for 2160A (OK for 513/515)
(OK for 357x/2080/2160 w/Adapter)
Hitachi 7K1000.B Series "SLA" SATA, One Confirmed OEM HDD in 2160A
Special Note on Hitachi Deskstar HDDs
GB|SATA Model #|OpW|IdleW|H x W x D in.|H x W x D mm
160
|
HDT721016SLA380
|
6.4
|
3.6
|1.03 x 4.00 x 5.787|26.1 x 101.6 x 147
250|HDT721025SLA380|6.4|3.6|1.03 x 4.00 x 5.787|26.1 x 101.6 x 147
320|HDT721032SLA360/380|8.2|3.6|1.03 x 4.00 x 5.787|26.1 x 101.6 x 147
500|HDT721050SLA360/380|8.2|4.4|1.03 x 4.00 x 5.787|26.1 x 101.6 x 147
IdleW (power used during idle) is essentially irrelevant to the 2160 and MDR series of DVDRs since they are seldom in an idle state... they're almost always auto-recording in the background. Thus, OpW (power during typical user ops) is the only power stat of real interest or consequence to a 2160A/MDR user.
HD=Hitachi DeskStar
A360/A380: A3=SATA, 6=16MB cache, 8=8MB cache, 0=Reserved
Cache size makes NO noticeable difference in our DVDRs.
Do not cover the small breather hole in HDDs, and don't put your finger on it (or it'll ingest your greasy boogers on startup). Hitachi's breather hole is in back-top area.
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Table IV. OEM HDD for 513 (OK for 2160A/515)
(OK for 357x/2080/2160 w/Adapter)
WD AV-GP AVVS, One Confirmed OEM HDD in 513
See Special Note on Hitachi Deskstar HDDs
GB|SATA Model #|OpW|IdleW|H x W x D in.|H x W x D mm
160|WD1600AVVS|4.7|2.3|1.028 x 4.00 x 5.787|25.4 x 101.6 x 147
250|WD2500AVVS|4.7|2.3|1.028 x 4.00 x 5.787|25.4 x 101.6 x 147
320
|
WD3200AVVS
|
4.7
|
2.3
|1.028 x 4.00 x 5.787|25.4 x 101.6 x 147
500|WD5000AVVS|4.1|3.7|1.028 x 4.00 x 5.787|25.4 x 101.6 x 147
This WD AV-GP series is also found in the 515. The "AVVS" model has 8MB cache, "AVCS" has 16MB cache, and "AVDS" has 32MB cache.
Another HDD that can be used in the 513 is an OEM drive found in the 515: the Hitachi CinemaStar 5K1000 CE Series listed in Table V below.
Notes: 1. The WD-AV series HDDs have a feature called Preemptive Wear Leveling (PWL) that sweeps the heads over the platter(s) when the machine is idle to even out wear. However, according to Stapler1234, it also makes clicking/clacking noises, so they had to modify the FW to reduce that noise. Also, the Mags are hardly ever in idle, so this WD AV-GP series *might* not be a good upgrade choice?
2. One user, dfw515, tried to make use of these in a dock-and-play external drive but he claimed it wouldn't start up in time to catch the beginning of a timer recording. (Never heard from him again for resolution/confirmation.) It's a "green" drive and other people with Moxi's etc. seem to also have problems with their green WD's?
IdleW (power used during idle) is essentially irrelevant to the 2160 and MDR series of DVDRs since they are seldom in an idle state... they're almost always auto-recording in the background. Thus, OpW (power during typical user ops) is the only power stat of real interest or consequence to a 2160A/MDR user.
Do not cover the small breather hole in HDDs, and don't put your finger on it (or it'll ingest your greasy boogers on startup). Hitachi's breather hole is in back-top area.
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Table V. OEM HDD for 515 (OK for 2160A/513)
(OK for 357x/2080/2160 w/Adapter)
Hitachi CinemaStar 5K1000 CE Series, One Confirmed HDD in 515
Special Note on Hitachi Deskstar HDDs
One confirmed HDD in the 515 is a Hitachi CinemaStar 5K1000 CE Series "HCS-CLA" drive, one of Hitachi's latest 3.5" drives "designed to support on-demand digital video solutions." These are 1-platter drives, 5700 rpm, fast startup/shutdown... in the 515, times are trimmed to 10/7 sec.
GB|SATA Model #|OpW|IdleW|H x W x D in.|H x W x D mm
160|HCS5C1016CLA382|6.4|2.9|1.03 x 4.00 x 5.787|26.1 x 101.6 x 147
250|HCS5C1025CLA382|6.4|2.9|1.03 x 4.00 x 5.787|26.1 x 101.6 x 147
320|HCS5C1032CLA382|6.4|2.9|1.03 x 4.00 x 5.787|26.1 x 101.6 x 147
500
|
HCS5C1050CLA382
|
6.4
|
2.9
|1.03 x 4.00 x 5.787|26.1 x 101.6 x 147
Another HDD found is a
WD AV-GP 5000 series, like the one listed in Table IV above. The "AVVS" model has 8MB cache, "AVCS" has 16MB cache, and "AVDS" has 32MB cache. However, see the Quote Note for that series in Table IV.
IdleW (power used during idle) is essentially irrelevant to the 2160 and MDR series of DVDRs since they are seldom in an idle state... they're almost always auto-recording in the background. Thus, OpW (power during typical user ops) is the only power stat of real interest or consequence to a 2160A/MDR user.
HC=Hitachi CinemaStar
A360/A380: A3=SATA, 6=16MB cache, 8=8MB cache, 2=Reserved
Cache size makes NO noticeable difference in our DVDRs.
Do not cover the small breather hole in HDDs, and don't put your finger on it (or it'll ingest your greasy boogers on startup). Hitachi's breather hole is in back-top area.
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Table A-1. Alternate Hitachi "HDP-GLA" HDD for 2160A/513/515
(+357x/2080/2160 w/Adapter)
Hitachi 7K500 Series "GLA" SATA
Special Note on Hitachi Deskstar HDDs
These "HDP-GLA" models are the ones used by our Pioneers Alitin, Busey and JoeKustra. See Table III for the OEM model used in the 2160A.
GB|SATA Model #|OpW|IdleW|H x W x D in.|H x W x D mm
160|HDP725016GLA380|6.4|3.6|1.03 x 4.00 x 5.787|26.1 x 101.6 x 147
250|HDP725025GLA380|6.4|3.6|1.03 x 4.00 x 5.787|26.1 x 101.6 x 147
320|HDP725032GLA360/380|8.2|4.8|1.03 x 4.00 x 5.787|26.1 x 101.6 x 147
400|HDP725040GLA360/380|8.2|4.8|1.03 x 4.00 x 5.787|26.1 x 101.6 x 147
500|HDP725050GLA360/380|8.2|4.8|1.03 x 4.00 x 5.787|26.1 x 101.6 x 147
IdleW (power used during idle) is essentially irrelevant to the 2160 and MDR series of DVDRs since they are seldom in an idle state... they're almost always auto-recording in the background. Thus, OpW (power during typical user ops) is the only power stat of real interest or consequence to a 2160A/MDR user.
HD=Hitachi DeskStar
A360/A380: A3=SATA, 6=16MB cache, 8=8MB cache, 0=Reserved
Cache size makes NO noticeable difference in our DVDRs.
Do not cover the small breather hole in HDDs, and don't put your finger on it (or it'll ingest your greasy boogers on startup). Hitachi's breather hole is in back-top area.
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Table A-2. Alternate Hitachi "HDS-CLA" HDD for 2160A/513/515
(+357x/2080/2160 w/Adapter)
Note: These drives have a high rate of failure or DOA
in NewEgg reviews... all in computer usage AFAICT. However, I included this table anyway cuz three of our Pioneers installed the 500GB drive (mickinct in May 2010, bodhi78 in June 2010, and gmacted on unknown date) and have not reported any problems so far. YMMV!?
These are Hitachi 7K1000.C DeskStar Series "HDS-CLA" drives built to SATA II specs (rev. 2.6).
Here's an article on SATA II... and
here's a post by Dartman on the I/F transfer rate diff. of SATA II vs SATA I drives (300MB/s vs 150MB/s) and the possibility of a jumper it might have to "slow" the rate down if it doesn't like the host's controller and chipset.
Hitachi DeskStar 7K1000.C SATA II
See Special Note on Hitachi Deskstar HDDs
GB|SATA Model #|OpW|IdleW|H x W x D in.|H x W x D mm
160|HDS721016CLA382|6.6|3.6|1.03 x 4.00 x 5.787|26.1 x 101.6 x 147
250|HDS721025CLA382|6.6|3.6|1.03 x 4.00 x 5.787|26.1 x 101.6 x 147
320|HDS721032CLA362|6.6|3.6|1.03 x 4.00 x 5.787|26.1 x 101.6 x 147
500|HDS721050CLA362|6.6|3.6|1.03 x 4.00 x 5.787|26.1 x 101.6 x 147
IdleW (power used during idle) is essentially irrelevant to the 2160 and MDR series of DVDRs since they are seldom in an idle state... they're almost always auto-recording in the background. Thus, OpW (power during typical user ops) is the only power stat of real interest or consequence to a 2160A/MDR user.
HD=Hitachi DeskStar
A360/A380: A3=SATA, 6=16MB cache, 8=8MB cache, 2=Reserved
Cache size makes NO noticeable difference in our DVDRs.
Do not cover the small breather hole in HDDs, and don't put your finger on it (or it'll ingest your greasy boogers on startup). Hitachi's breather hole is in back-top area.
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Table A-3. Alternate Seagate "ST-AS" HDD for 2160A/513/515
(+357x/2080/2160 w/Adapter)
Seagate Barracuda 7200.12 Series SATA
See Special Note on Hitachi Deskstar HDDs
GB|SATA Model #|OpW|IdleW|H x W x D in.|H x W x D mm
160|ST3160318AS|6.19|4.6|0.78 x 4.00 x 5.787|20.0 x 101.6 x 146.99
250|ST3250318AS|6.19|4.6|0.78 x 4.00 x 5.787|20.0 x 101.6 x 146.99
320|ST3320418AS|6.57|5.0|0.78 x 4.00 x 5.787|20.0 x 101.6 x 146.99
500|ST3500418AS|6.57|5.0|0.78 x 4.00 x 5.787|20.0 x 101.6 x 146.99
IdleW (power used during idle) is essentially irrelevant to the 2160 and MDR series of DVDRs since they are seldom in an idle state... they're almost always auto-recording in the background. Thus, OpW (power during typical user ops) is the only power stat of real interest or consequence to a 2160A/MDR user.
Do not cover the small breather hole in HDDs, and don't put your finger on it (or it'll ingest your greasy boogers on startup). Hitachi's breather hole is in back-top area.
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GETTING INSIDE & REMOVING HDD/DVD... PRECAUTIONS!
Precautions
- UNPLUG FROM POWER!
These machines have Standy power, an amplified coax circuit when plugged in, and backup power even when unplugged! If you don't remove all power and dissipate/drain residual electricity, you could easily fry the unit, as this guy did on a Philips 3455 cuz he left it plugged in!
- Before touching anything inside the case:
- UNPLUG this DVDR from all power source(s).
- Let it sit for at least 10 minutes to drain any residual electricity.
- Remove jewelry from hands and wrists and remove stuff from shirt pockets that could fall in case while leaning over it.
- Touch the case to get rid of any static electricity in you.
- Don't touch the exposed back pins on a HDD, PCB/circuit board solder points, or PCB solder-strips.
- Look for and lift up any "pinch" or "clamshell" clips on ends of ribbon cables before trying to remove them.
Those clips must be carefully lifted to allow easy disconnect and pinched back in place when reconnecting. They can be broken if not unclipped before pulling the cable end-fitting loose (straight out, don't wiggle too much)... if broken, only effect would be less secure connection, but if not moved, prob. OK!
- Remove and/or install ribbon-cable end-fittings STRAIGHT in or out, as shown in the sketch below titled "Instructions for Connectors."
These cables have thin copper on their mating surfaces which can be "smeared" by wiggling sideways back-and-forth while pulling off or pressing on. Also, the ground pins inside the connector are diff. sizes, with ground pins LONGER so they all make contact first to prevent short circuits. Rocking the ribbon cable sideways to remove or install circumvents that "ground-pin-first" design feature.
- Protect the inside PCBs from metal particles.
If you use a file, drill or dremel to make or expand an opening in the back for the external cable, use a cloth or other non-conductive shield near the work area and check for particles before closing up. Cleanest and safest way to create an opening might be to make two cuts at top edge of the case with "tin snips" or "nibbler" and fold the cut section down and inward (with pliers?) to protect the cable at the exit point. For other type of holes/slots, use a rubber grommet or equivalent around the hole or slot.
Procedure for Cover & HDD Removal
- Gather tools:
- Posidrive #2 screwdriver OR Philips with non-sharp tip and flatter angles. You can file sharp point down slightly until you get good biting surfaces for the small screws.
- Single-edge razor blade, safety pin or similar tape/ribbon releaser/scraper... for HDD only.
- Drill for removing stuck screw heads.... maybe?
- Dremel or "Nibbler" for cutting opening in back of case... only if going "external."
- Follow illustrations below and detailed procedures written by our HDD Prioneers above (those in red).
See PRECAUTIONS above.|Pull/push straight in, no rocking side-to-side. Ground pins inside connectors are longer to assure they ALL make contact fist.
|Replace ground "Plate" shown below on new HDD.
|
[/aname]
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Order Parts & Service Manual
IMPORTANT NOTE: In contacting suppliers, always include the DVDR model name (2160, etc.) & model number (E2Sxxxx, E2Mxxxx, etc.) from back tag, along with the requested part so the parts supplier can make SURE you get the correct part for your machine. All info here is on a "best-efforts" basis from various sources and could be WRONG!
For MAGNAVOX parts:
Apparently, Funai Service has stopped responding to user requests for help or parts, as one user found in Feb 2017, Here's his info on what he received from an email request:
From Magnavox Support
Magnavox@funaisupport.comI get response:
" am sorry but we do not place order internal parts to direct customers. We also do not have information of the diagnostics of the service center you contacted. They are the one who will order the part needed to fix your unit. Please contact them again to follow up on your repair inquiry.
If you have any questions or inquiries, please feel free to contact us. You may also call our hotline at 1-800-242-7158. We are open Monday - Sunday 9AM-11 PM EST excluding major holidays. "
I contact the number which they give me and nobody answer the phone and returns phone call.
For PHILLIPS parts:
An unsolved problem. Funaiservice.com doesn't stock parts for Philips DVDRs. On diff. occasions, Funai has pointed to its subsidiaary,
P&F USA, or
Encompass Parts, 1-800-432-8542. P&F seems to only have a few accessories. Encompass seems to be a wholesaler and hasn't responded to emails I sent!?
For Magnavox, Funai might send you a Service Manual (SM) along with your part(s) if you request it for your "repair project." Otherwise, the SM costs $25.00. Don't know about P&F or Encompass policies.
See specific subjects below for repairing/replacing common parts.
Make sure you keep your old or broken machines around for parts!
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Replace DVD Burner
IMPORTANT NOTE: In contacting suppliers, always include the DVDR model name (2160, etc.) & model number (E2Sxxxx, E2Mxxxx, etc.) from back tag, along with the requested part so the parts supplier can make SURE you get the correct part for your machine. All info here is on a "best-efforts" basis from various sources and could be WRONG!
All MAGNAVOX DVD burners with mated/calibrated Main PCB (Funai's "Main CBA") cost $67.99.
ALL DVDR FW IS LOCATED ON THE DVD MAIN CBA (PCB). This means you'll *most likely* get the OEM FW Versions for the machine the burner was designed for, altho if updated/later FW is still available for download, you can update it yourself to that later FW.
PN's are as follows:
See Important Note above
Ordering info is here.
Mfgr|DVDR|Speed|Burner PN
Mag|515|8X|N78F3FUN
Mag|513|8X|N78F0FUN
Mag|2160A|8X|N78F0FUN
Mag|2160|8X|N78F8EUN
Mag|2080|4X|N78F4DUN
Philips|3576|4X|Same as 3575?¹
Philips|3575|4X|N78P3DUN²
¹Philips PN is 996510003027. Not available from Funai.
²Confirmed by one user. Not available from Funai.
rkg22 proved that a Mag burner will work in a Philips 357x if you don't try to use the Mag PCB. Main PCB's for PHILIPS will NOT work in Mag DVDRs and vice versa, not just electromechanically, but because all FW is on that Main PCB. Later,
he verified that the Mag Main PCB can't be used in the 357x, even tho the Mag burners can.
Procedure
See PRECAUTIONS above.
- Gather tools:
- Posidrive #2 screwdriver OR Philips with non-sharp tip and flatter angles. You can file sharp point down slightly until you get good biting surfaces for the small screws.
- Flathead screwdriver, small and/or medium... maybe?
- Remove screws from cover, then slide top cover back, as shown in the illustration above and pics below.
DigaDo ordered a replacement DVD drive for his 2160 from Funai and has taken pics
located here (2 posts).
As shown in DigaDo's pics, the replacement drive comes with the small attached CBA/PCB boards underneath with the mini-ribbon cables attached and ready to install on the separate, adjacent PCB that comes with the replacement drive, identified in the right-hand sketch above as the "DVD/HDD Main CBA Assembly."
Here's a post by dfw515 and, 6 posts down, some further discussion of specific instructions on working with the ribbon cables, etc.
CAUTION:
DigaDo also took some pics of a critical white-plastic slider part you should not touch cuz it breaks easily.
Below are pics I took to see how difficult it was to remove the DVD drive (but not the mated PCB) from a 3575... it was pretty easy.
↓Front Insides - Mounting Screws Removed from Edges of Drive w/Philips Scrwdrv | ↓Right-Front Retaining Clip (Pry Up Slightly To Release Tang on Drive)
|
|
↓Left-Front Retaining Clip (Pry Up Slightly To Release Tang on Drive) | ↓Flipped - Gear Side - Note One Ribbon IN Slotted Bracket and One NOT
|
|
↓Flipped - Gear Side Closeup - Note One Ribbon IN Slotted Bracket and One NOT | ↓Flipped - View from Back
|
|
↓Flipped - Closeup of Ribbons Showing Attachment To Drive, One Up Inside and One on Accessible "Outside" Board.
You don't remove these.
See ribbon instructions starting here
and continuing 6 posts down. | ↓Flipped - Bar Code on Side with Serial Number(?) "L4681007417"
|
|
↓Reinstall - Ribbon on Right in Tight Fit with PCB, Can Prevent Fully Seating Drive So Hold Up and Make Sure it Is In Slotted Metal Bracket (NOT In Here)... not a problem if replacing PCB also... install drive first, then PCB and ribbons? | ↓Reinstall - Ribbon on Right is IN the Slotted Bracket That Holds It Close to Drive and Keeps It from Being Squished Under Drive During Reinstall... not a problem if replacing PCB also... install drive first, then PCB and ribbons? With cables in place, jiggle the drive while pressing down on sides and pegs in bottom of drive will "snap" in place in holes in mounting plate... it tries to stick up in back with front clips in place, but jiggling and pressing firmly on edges should get it to "snap" down.
|
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Replace Main Fuse
IMPORTANT NOTE: In contacting suppliers, always include the DVDR model name (2160, etc.) & model number (E2Sxxxx, E2Mxxxx, etc.) from back tag, along with the requested part so the parts supplier can make SURE you get the correct part for your machine. All info here is on a "best-efforts" basis from various sources and could be WRONG!
For MAGNAVOX only: If you have to replace the Main Fuse, like after a lightning strike, I'd suggest ordering it from funaiservice.com.
Ordering info is here.
Since that glass fuse is a "Time Lag" fuse, 2A 250V, and there are many other fuses that look alike and have same Amp and Voltage specs but different lengths and diameters, different names (like Fast Acting), etc., etc.
If you install the "wrong" fuse, you could damage components in the power supply. Also, Funai recommends NOT plugging in power if you seuspect the Main Fuse is blown, which could also damage the power supply.
Here's a DigaDo pic of the fuse inside the case, right where the power cord enters.
Removing the top cover is shown in the 1st pic here.
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Replace Fan
IMPORTANT NOTE: In contacting suppliers, always include the DVDR model name (2160, etc.) & model number (E2Sxxxx, E2Mxxxx, etc.) from back tag, along with the requested part so the parts supplier can make SURE you get the correct part for your machine. All info here is on a "best-efforts" basis from various sources and could be WRONG!
For MAGNAVOX only: PN for all Magnavox fans except 2080 is MMEZR12XNR05 and costs $4.35.
User's detailed instructions here.
Ordering info is here.
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Replace SATA Adapter
IMPORTANT NOTE: In contacting suppliers, always include the DVDR model name (2160, etc.) & model number (E2Sxxxx, E2Mxxxx, etc.) from back tag, along with the requested part so the parts supplier can make SURE you get the correct part for your machine. All info here is on a "best-efforts" basis from various sources and could be WRONG!
For MAGNAVOX only: SATA Adapter for the 2160A, 513 and 515 is PN 1VSA20684, ordered from
parts@funaiservice.com
You should never need replacing this unless it breaks?
Ordering info is here.
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Open Stuck DVD Tray
See PRECAUTIONS above.
Sketch below shows rotating gear fwd but that's only if the tray is STUCK IN THE MACHINE. Obviously, rotate the gear the other way, or both ways, if it's stuck halfway or anywhere outside... you're just trying to get it to engage in full-out or full-in position!
Thanks to DigaDo, a picture of the white DVD drive gear:
CAUTION:
DigaDo also took some pics of a critical white-plastic slider part you should not touch cuz it breaks easily.
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CleanDVD Spindle
Click here for DigaDo's instructions and pics on cleaning the DVD spindle of these Mag HDD/DVD recorders.
Click here for his similar instructions for another Funai-mfgd recorder, an Emerson.
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Power Supply
These DVDRs use at least two different power supplies (PS) but probably all have the same specs since they seem to be mixed in different batches of each model. DigaDo and Auskck verified that their Mag 2080 and Philips 3575 used the same PS
based on this pic posted by DigaDo.
DigaDo also posted
this pic of the PS in his original Mag 2160 (mfg Dec 2008), which matches the PS in one of my Philips 3575's (mfg Jan 2008).
The actual full-power specs on the label of our OEM 160GB HDDs
(shown here) are:
357x = 12V 0.52A = 6.24W at full HDD power.
2160 = 12V 670mA (0.67A) = 8.04W at full HDD power.
(W = V x A)
No one has found or posted the exact power output in watts of the PS, so here's my WAG (Wild Ass Guess). The power-input CBA/PCB has a fuse on it that's rated for 2.0A 250V (500W max.) for all machine electric reqmts at power-on. Since 2.0A is the
highest power rating possible (or the fuse would blow), and our HDDs run on full power at 12V, then 2.0 x 12 =
24W max. available for HDD power. The use of the W = V x A equation now elevates this to a SWAG (Scientific Wild Ass Guess).
That 24W max is:
4X higher than the
6.24W rating of the 357x HDD.
3X higher than the
8.04W rating of the 2160 HDD.
3X higher than the
8.2W rating the highest-power 500GB drives listed in the tables above that many upgraders have been using w/no problems so far.
2.5X higher than the
9.3W rating of the worst power-hog OEM HDD series, the 500GB Seagate DB35.3 PATA used in the 357x.
Most importantly, the only noticeable difference our Upgrade Pioneers have found so far from their 250 and 500GB drives after a year or more, besides the obvious capacity increase, are a much better pic, e.g., Ti-Triodes (#7) and PaintModel (#14
).
BOTTOM LINE ON POWER: Remember that all of the above is just a SWAG!
Look for a replacement or upgrade drive that comes closest to power specs of THE ORIGINAL OEM DRIVE (160, 320 or 500GB) as listed in the HDD Tables above. Based on the typ. OEM HDD OpW spec of 6.4 and on actual experience of our Pioneer upgraders* with higher OpW HDDs, my recommendation is to stay within 30% of the OEM spec, or no more than 8.3 OpW.
*Some examples: two upgrade Pioneers have used an 8.77W/8.40W Op/Idle drive in their 3575's, one in Mar 2009 and one in Feb 2010, both with no ill effects.
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Expected Component Life & Actual Usage Stats
A Funai rep. has provided some stats on expected life of the DVD and HDD drives, as follows:
"We cannot guarantee but our design life is more than 1,000 hr.
In our lab test, the unit usually works more than 2,000 hr.
Maybe, motor life is a key point of DVD drive life.
"Regarding HDD, nobody knows the life as you know.
I met HDD sudden death few times in my PC.
But in my experience, my job PC worked (10 hrs per day) x (250 days per year) x (3 years no trouble) = 7,500 hr.
I think we can expect more than 10,000 hrs."
While those stats can be considered only "educated guesses" of life expectancy, a more important measure is
actual usage by our Members.
Computerman3 recently reported that he had
9,631 hours of DVD use on his 3576 using crappy TDK discs, prob. also 16X!
The table below contains more, but older, data reported by our PhilMag machines as of the dates noted in the table. The data is only from people who've taken the tme to report their usage stats and includes only their highest-mileage "Phil" (3575/3576) or "Mag" (2080/2160) model.
To check
your mileage, use
SKIP 321 for DVD-WR/-RD times (hrs:min) FIRST cuz that menu can be exited with Back/Return, then use
SKIP 079 for HDD POWER ON time (hrs), which requires a machine power-off to exit. Please post the numbers so I can add them to these tables and link your name to your post.
Some Accumulated Usage Since:
1st Philips 3575 purchased by an AVS Member:
TimSH on 5/27/07.
1st Mag 2080 purchased by an AVS Member:
ksjs02 on 10/15/07.
1st Philips 3576 purchased by an AVS Member:
MMikeM on 4/19/08.
1st Mag 2160 purchased by an AVS Member:
hugemoth ~8/5/08 (AVS lost 1 week of posts).
DVD-WR time is at full laser power; it's the disc-record/erase time, which depend on disc speed (e.g., 16X takes more power than 8X, 8X more than 4X).
DVD-RD time is Standby (just plugged-in) laser power, called "bias" power. It's the power the machine maintains on the laser while it's "off "so it's "ready to read" from the get-go, AND it's the disc reading/playback power level.
User
|{colsp=2}
HDD hrs
|{colsp=2}
DVD-WR h:m
|{colsp=2}
DVD-RD h:m
|
As of
Name
|
Phil
|
Mag
|
Phil
|
Mag
|
Phil
|
Mag
|
Date
|
Chuck44
|
1695
||
9:31
||
37:07
||7/29/09
DigaDo
|
920
|
1118
|
105:11
|
81:49
|
341:59
|
253:30
|3/30/10
Jjeff's Dad
|
3086
|
|
22:37
|
|
183:00
|
|9/5/09
Kansas_Tom
|
709
|
800
|
0:00
|
0:29
|
2:50
|
1:26
|7/29/09
Stump69
|
4162
|
1265
|
49:45
|
12:10
|
289:51
|
131:54
|8/2/09
sydyen|
3256
|
4335
|
0:00
|
1:32
|
0:00
|
30:27
|8/4/09
tfj2u
|
4380
|
2694
|
48:32
|
37:01
|
844:46
|
466:32
|7/30/09
wajo|
3916
|
1501
|
11:15
|
6:06
|
76:15
|
87:50
|11/8/10
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[/QUOTE].