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The Official Pioneer 9G non-Elite KURO Owner's Discussion Thread

2M views 15K replies 2K participants last post by  John Hooper 
#1 ·
#12,081 ·
This is a scary question to ask, but what would you say is the best way to transport a Pioneer Kuro State-to-State?


I might be moving sometime soon and I don't quite know what I would do with the TV that is in my room right now
. Of course I want to bring it along, but I'm how to do it to make sure my Kuro isn't damaged in anyway.
 
#12,082 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by maglor64 /forum/post/16895530


I get what Standard is doing when fed 24p [runs @72 Hz], but my real question about Standard mode is how does it differ from "Off" when fed film content that is not 24p?

As far as I can tell, it doesn't. I can see the utility in this on older monitors than the 500/600M because those don't preserve Pure Cinema settings for each signal, thus you can just leave it in Standard and it will always refresh at 60 Hz when not fed 24p and always run at 72 Hz when it is.

Quote:
By extension, how does Standard differ from "Advance" when fed film content that is not 24p?

Advance will try to perform IVTC automatically on non-24p and non-1080/60p content (including 1080/60i). For 24p input, it will be the same as Standard as far as I can tell.

Quote:
Again when fed non 24p film content Advance looks better to me than Off or Standard... just wish I knew why...

Can you define better? It's probably is doing IVTC and it's displaying at 72 Hz already. Is it original film content, like prime time shows and such? Many commercials are also shot in 24p originally.
 
#12,083 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Trojita /forum/post/16896358


...what would you say is the best way to transport a Pioneer Kuro State-to-State?....

Just treat it like a good piece of furniture. Wrap it in a moving blanket, and secure that with packaging tape. Keep it upright and secure with bungie cords, and you should be fine. Try to face the glass front toward the side of a moving truck so that anything shifting in the truck couldn't fall against it. Of course, if you have the original box, that would be best.
 
#12,084 ·

Quote:
Can you define better? It's probably is doing IVTC and it's displaying at 72 Hz already. Is it original film content, like prime time shows and such? Many commercials are also shot in 24p originally.

By better I mean that movement looks more natural to me in Advance when watching film content. Closer to what one sees in the movie theater.


When watching content shot on video (news, talk shows, sports) all the modes look the same, I assume because they are already 60 fps. Pure Cinema doesn't need to do anything.


What I find amazing is that when I watch 60 fps content like The Tonight Show and a commercial filmed at 24 fps comes on, there is no visual glitch as Advance seamlessly jumps from 60Hz to 72Hz.



Love this TV!
 
#12,085 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by maglor64 /forum/post/16898984


By better I mean that movement looks more natural to me in Advance when watching film content. Closer to what one sees in the movie theater.


When watching content shot on video (news, talk shows, sports) all the modes look the same, I assume because they are already 60 fps. Pure Cinema doesn't need to do anything.


What I find amazing is that when I watch 60 fps content like The Tonight Show and a commercial filmed at 24 fps comes on, there is no visual glitch as Advance seamlessly jumps from 60Hz to 72Hz.



Love this TV!

Yeah, that's exactly what I've noticed too, also notice when they show clips of the movies the guests are in.
 
#12,087 ·
Detection is not based on flags, but on content, so it does detect film content on a regular broadcast, provided they don't come up with a weird pulldown sequence. It does work remarkably well for primetime shows, and even just the movie clips I mentioned above. During still scenes or very slow scenes it does revert back to 60 Hz. The better the source, the better the detection though. For instance, with pure 24p bluray content playing in my HTPC, but with the card set to output at 1080/60i, the detection/implementation is flawless, the 500M rarely goes back to 60 Hz.


Just in case you wonder how I can tell easily when the monitor changes refresh rates, consider what happens when you videotape a CRT or plasma. With CRTs you can see the scanning, and with plasmas the screen in the video pulsates due to the offset of the monitor's refresh and the sensor's refresh. With my digital camera (Canon G9), when set in manual, I can get the sensor to refresh at a steady rate, and thus if the pulsating changes, it's the monitor's refresh that changed. Due to the fact that in this case the monitor's refresh can only be either 60 Hz or 72 Hz, I can tell which is which, and exactly when it changes. It seems too simple, but it works.
 
#12,088 ·

Quote:
Just in case you wonder how I can tell easily when the monitor changes refresh rates, consider what happens when you videotape a CRT or plasma. With CRTs you can see the scanning, and with plasmas the screen in the video pulsates due to the offset of the monitor's refresh and the sensor's refresh. With my digital camera (Canon G9), when set in manual, I can get the sensor to refresh at a steady rate, and thus if the pulsating changes, it's the monitor's refresh that changed. Due to the fact that in this case the monitor's refresh can only be either 60 Hz or 72 Hz, I can tell which is which, and exactly when it changes. It seems too simple, but it works.

Very interesting.
 
#12,089 ·
sorry to bring this up again...but the Film Mode settings on my 141 are really confusing me. I can't really say I notice any effect on the image no matter what setting is enabled. Do these settings do anything to 1080p content? I use the PS3 to play all movies (bluray/dvd) so they are always upscaled to 1080p and either 60/24 fps depending on the source. Help would be hugely appreciated!!
 
#12,090 ·
Pure Cinema settings don't do anything to 1080/60p content. For 1080/24p, Advance and Standard are the same, and Smooth applies interpolation and refreshes at 60 Hz. I don't know about others, but I see artifacts with Smooth, and it doesn't always work well, in fact, it's very hit-and-miss.


Especially with the PS3, I don't upscale DVDs (and blurays are output at their original rate, mostly 24p) and let the 500M upscale. The PS3 does deinterlace. This way, the 500M receives 480p and Advance mode works, so it can apply IVTC and refresh at 72 Hz for 24p content encoded in 60i.
 
#12,091 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by jblakeney /forum/post/16911850


sorry to bring this up again...but the Film Mode settings on my 141 are really confusing me. I can't really say I notice any effect on the image no matter what setting is enabled. Do these settings do anything to 1080p content? I use the PS3 to play all movies (bluray/dvd) so they are always upscaled to 1080p and either 60/24 fps depending on the source. Help would be hugely appreciated!!

You should post in the owner's thread for your 141.


Signature Elite 141 Owners Thread
 
#12,092 ·
Was asked to copy this from the Calibrators thread to this one as well.





Shawn Byrne (lives in Topeka, KS but covers the Kansas City metro area as well as Lawrence, KS) just left my house after spending 6hrs calibrating a Pioneer 111FD and a Pioneer 6020. I highly recommend him.


Shawn was incredibly professional. He was friendly, courteous and patient with my continuing questions.


I thought my sets looked terrific before but they look INCREDIBLE now. I was just sitting in my basement watching the Redsox (via DirecTV) play on my 6020 and was amazed at how awesome the picture looked. In particular, the Whites all looked much sharper with more "pop".


The 111FD took about 4.5hrs and the initial readings showed my TV being pretty far off of the reference values. After all the calibrating the colors are amazing and the grey scale is perfect. Shawn activated the ISF-day, Night and Auto modes and calibrated all of them.


The 6020 was easier (and only took about 1.5hrs) as it doesn't have the ISF modes. There is definitely a difference on black levels between the 111FD and the 6020 but the 6020 still looked terrific after calibration.


I could go on and on but suffice it to say that Shawn was excellent and I highly recommend his services.


Thank you Shawn
 
#12,096 ·
Folks,


Got my 5020 a couple of days ago--$2400 out the door. I couldn't resist. Went in to look for some sunglasses, bought a plasma TV...


Mine has a build date of Aug 08, although it was new in an unopened box. My firmware starts with 0901. She's currently going through the break in procedure, but I've watched a couple of movies using DNice's prior-to-break-in settings and I'm blown away by the picture. Has anyone regretted doing the firmware upgrade? Does anyone know what changed between my firmware and 0905-0401?


Thanks,


poormxdad
 
#12,097 ·
He is calibrating my 5020 next Friday and I can't wait! I hear he uses a new method and I'm glad to hear it works so well!



Quote:
Originally Posted by cavman1 /forum/post/16912666


Was asked to copy this from the Calibrators thread to this one as well.





Shawn Byrne (lives in Topeka, KS but covers the Kansas City metro area as well as Lawrence, KS) just left my house after spending 6hrs calibrating a Pioneer 111FD and a Pioneer 6020. I highly recommend him.


Shawn was incredibly professional. He was friendly, courteous and patient with my continuing questions.


I thought my sets looked terrific before but they look INCREDIBLE now. I was just sitting in my basement watching the Redsox (via DirecTV) play on my 6020 and was amazed at how awesome the picture looked. In particular, the Whites all looked much sharper with more "pop".


The 111FD took about 4.5hrs and the initial readings showed my TV being pretty far off of the reference values. After all the calibrating the colors are amazing and the grey scale is perfect. Shawn activated the ISF-day, Night and Auto modes and calibrated all of them.


The 6020 was easier (and only took about 1.5hrs) as it doesn't have the ISF modes. There is definitely a difference on black levels between the 111FD and the 6020 but the 6020 still looked terrific after calibration.


I could go on and on but suffice it to say that Shawn was excellent and I highly recommend his services.


Thank you Shawn
 
#12,098 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by cavman1 /forum/post/16912666


Shawn Byrne (lives in Topeka, KS but covers the Kansas City metro area as well as Lawrence, KS) just left my house after spending 6hrs calibrating a Pioneer 111FD and a Pioneer 6020.

Thanks for your calibration report. I've included in the flat panel (Post#2) list that's linked at the bottom of my post.


Enjoy.
 
#12,099 ·
Hello everybody...


I have a lot to report.

Finished break-in on Wednesday. TV looks great! totally even screen even when totally black. Also it is pixel perfect.


I mentioned in an earlier update that there was no significant buzz. This was based on listening to the back of the panel where I had noticed buzz on my last 2 Pioneers. However about halfway into the break-in period I noticed the buzz coming from the front of the TV. I can't say for sure that my previous 2 Pios had no front panel buzz, but I had my 5080 for a full year and I think I would have noticed it. My first 5020 I only had for about a month and I wish now I had educated myself on buzz then and really analyzed the rear power source buzz and the front panel buzz. Then I could say easier whether the buzz on my current TV is abnormal.


Here is what I do know:


1) Turning the power save to Mode 2 drops the pitch so that the noise is significantly less noticeable.


2) Even on power save Mode 2 I can hear the buzz at my normal viewing distance (12 feet) if the room is quiet and the TV is either muted or its a very quiet scene.


3) I went to Best Buy and listened to 2 6020's on display to hear the buzz. Because of ambient noise I could not hear it unless I literally put my ear tight against the glass. When switching between power save "Off" and Mode 2 the same exact difference in pitch as my 5020 could be heard. When I came home I preformed an experiment: I put a box fan in my living room and put it on low. I also turned on some music. This replicated the ambient noise of Best Buy pretty well. Then when I put my ear next to the TV the buzz was non existent or maybe almost non existent. I then put my ear tight to the screen to see if it sounded like the 6020's at Best Buy... can't say for sure. Right now I am leaning toward-- my TV is at least a little louder... then again, it may be that the ambient noise at Best Buy was greater. But it seems like ambient noise wouldn't be a factor with ones ear tight to the screen.


A very likely possibility is that all of my Pios buzzed but after already exchanging 2 TVs I am freaking out a little. Also, I may be suffering from the 'I-made-a $3000-investment-and-it-should-be-perfect' syndrome.


I am not willing to exchange a third time (especially after waiting through the 150 hour break in period.. I'm not doing that again any time soon!)



So my latest questions are:


A) Does it sound like my TV is abnormal? (The manual says that panel buzz is normal... but how much?)


B) With my current awareness of the panel buzz I can not tolerate power save "Off". I know that D-Nice recommends "Off" for the best picture but I can't stand it! However in "Movie", "Off" and "Mode 2" appear close to identical. I just bump the brightness from -1 to 0, and it seems fine to me. Should I be fine with that? [Saving energy is good right?]


C) When pressing my ear tight to my screen (several times) I left oils from my skin. I knew this would happen but I thought the provided cloth would get it off just fine... It doesn't! I have tried 6 or 7 times and I can still see the residue. When I look at the screen close the reflection looks more bluish where the oils have been smeared around. Have the oils done permanent damage? Is there something I can use in addition to wiping with the provided cloth?


The manual says not to use any liquid on the screen because it could 'seep into the panel'. This makes it sound like liquid could penetrate the glass [?!], or maybe damage some "magical" finish. Is that possible or does it just mean that it could drip down into the edges?


I am very tempted to try a little rubbing alcohol on a cotton t-shirt to cut the grease but I don't want to damage the "magical" finish on the glass, if there is such a thing... and I haven't already damaged said magical finish...



What can I do to make my screen clean?


How can I get my head right about the buzzing? Try to keep your comments positive, for the sake of my sanity!
 
#12,100 ·
I just this minute came back from my local Best Buy. I had my heart set on a Pro-111FD but they're just too expensive. Today there is a 3000 dollar difference, you read that right, three GRAND difference between my Best Buy's price on a 111FD versus the 5020.

5020, here I come (but that Samsung LED sure looked good too!).

Did I mention the Three GRAND price difference?
 
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