I have done 1080/50p via my HTPC on my 500M. Playing 25p content, I don't think PureCinema modes do anything with 50p input. What changes the refresh rate are drive modes. Drive mode 1 refreshes at 75 Hz, drive mode 2 at 100 Hz (the one I use) and drive mode 3 at 60. That is for my NA 500m. I don't know if the European models behave differently.
I just had my 5020 calibrated on Sunday by D-Nice, it was nice to meet him after hearing so many good things about him on this forum, I thought my TV looked good before but that same night he was done with the calibration Planet Earth was on the discovery channel and all I can say is unbelievable, movie mode used to look a little on the yellowish side and dull now it looks so sharp and has pop to it. He calibrated movie and standard mode for me, I now use standard mode for all my sports I told him my friends complained about how sports looked on my movie mode and I had to use optium mode but to me that mode just looked to fake and not natural with standard mode now calibrated the colors still look the way they suppose to with that extra pop thats makes sports feel like they are coming at you.The other thing I liked is how D-Nice set up my picture size to what I am watching examples 1080i or bd 1080p(dot by dot) 720p(full) and 480i(wide) no more fooling around with picture size. I will use D-Nice again whenever I get a new TV to bad it won't be another Kuro, he knows all the ins and outs of the Kuros, and kind enough to answer any questions..I highly recommend him to anyone!!!!!
I got a new 5020 (I am assuming it's a brand new unit). I just started the break-in period (already passed around 14 hours) and I noticed some cloudy areas. The colors are not entirely solid but with some darker/lighter areas. Is it normal and will it be less noticeable in time?
Quick question for the Xbox 360 Kuro owners. Do you set the console to 1080p to let the xbox perform the upscaling of games or set it to 720p to let the Kuro handle it?
Could our Pioneer TV upscale DVDs better than our DVD player does?
We have a Pioneer 5020 about 3 months old. The DVD player is a little Sony DVP-NS90V that cost $119 approx. It's connected to the Pioneer via HDMI (and we use an optical dig. audio cable from the Sony to our old Marantz 5.1 surround receiver).
The Sony DVD player has the little "Progressive" light lit up on its front panel, and I think in the player's settings menu we have selected 1080p. The picture is pretty good on most DVDs, even outstanding on some movies.
How good is the Pioneer for upscaling? It's a fairly expensive set so we're wondering if maybe it can upscale DVD movies better than the Sony DVD player does. Can we compare the quality while usiong the HDMI cable, or do we need to unhook that and plug in something else like Component or S-Video?
Quote:
Originally Posted by gaucherre /forum/post/17122782
Could our Pioneer TV upscale DVDs better than our DVD player does?
We have a Pioneer 5020 about 3 months old. The DVD player is a little Sony DVP-NS90V that cost $119 approx. It's connected to the Pioneer via HDMI (and we use an optical dig. audio cable from the Sony to our old Marantz 5.1 surround receiver).
The Sony DVD player has the little "Progressive" light lit up on its front panel, and I think in the player's settings menu we have selected 1080p. The picture is pretty good on most DVDs, even outstanding on some movies.
How good is the Pioneer for upscaling? It's a fairly expensive set so we're wondering if maybe it can upscale DVD movies better than the Sony DVD player does. Can we compare the quality while usiong the HDMI cable, or do we need to unhook that and plug in something else like Component or S-Video?
It's a fairly simple matter to find out first hand. On your DVD player, adjust the HDMI Resolution to 720x480p. This will cause the Pioneer to do the upscaling.
View a segment of sample material at this resolution and again at 1920x1080p. Compare the video and decide for yourself.
Quote:
Originally Posted by omarcio /forum/post/17120380
I got a new 5020 (I am assuming it's a brand new unit). I just started the break-in period (already passed around 14 hours) and I noticed some cloudy areas. The colors are not entirely solid but with some darker/lighter areas. Is it normal and will it be less noticeable in time?
I'm now 150 hours into my break in on the way to 200 before calibration. Initially I noticed the same thing you did early on, but now after 150 hours, the picture and color are dramatically better. You will notice it too. The wow factor hit me in the face last night while watching the Boise State/Oregon game. It was the first time I saw what HD is suppose to look like. And that's before being calibrated.
Best Buy offered me a Kuro 5020 Store Display Model for $1200.00. It's missing the speakers and the stand, but other than that should I go for it? I won't have to worry about breaking it in. It does have 8 months of usage on it, but they're supposed to last for 20 years and I would be replacing it well before it dies.
Quote:
Originally Posted by dools767 /forum/post/17125262
Best Buy offered me a Kuro 5020 Store Display Model for $1200.00. It's missing the speakers and the stand, but other than that should I go for it? I won't have to worry about breaking it in. It does have 8 months of usage on it, but they're supposed to last for 20 years and I would be replacing it well before it dies.
Quote:
Originally Posted by dools767 /forum/post/17125262
Best Buy offered me a Kuro 5020 Store Display Model for $1200.00. It's missing the speakers and the stand, but other than that should I go for it? I won't have to worry about breaking it in. It does have 8 months of usage on it, but they're supposed to last for 20 years and I would be replacing it well before it dies.
Quote:
Originally Posted by wxman /forum/post/17123434
I'm now 150 hours into my break in on the way to 200 before calibration. Initially I noticed the same thing you did early on, but now after 150 hours, the picture and color are dramatically better. You will notice it too. The wow factor hit me in the face last night while watching the Boise State/Oregon game. It was the first time I saw what HD is suppose to look like. And that's before being calibrated.
Jusy got my 5020 hooked up and seeing how things look. So far HD-DVD and OTA HD on my local news channel looks pretty darn good. Nice blacks and lots of pop to the pic.
Quote:
Originally Posted by CHASLS2 /forum/post/17126594
Jusy got my 5020 hooked up and seeing how things look. So far HD-DVD and OTA HD on my local news channel looks pretty darn good. Nice blacks and lots of pop to the pic.
No buzz at all so far. This was a demo set with about 800 hours on it. Tennis on OTA-HD really pops with super contrast and blacks. The build date on this set was March 09. I don't notice any differance with power save off or 1 and 2 modes. I have to play around with the pic settings for my Pioneer Elite DV- 59 AVI, as it looks diff from when it was hooked up to my Mits 52628 DLP.
Can someone potentially use a Eye-One calibrator to calibrate the 500M? Seeing the display can be connected to a laptop or desktop computer with dvi? Or am I completely insane.
Quote:
Originally Posted by saralee /forum/post/17127438
Can someone potentially use a Eye-One calibrator to calibrate the 500M? Seeing the display can be connected to a laptop or desktop computer with dvi? Or am I completely insane.
I have used an Eye One 2, but you'll be limited by the software, since it's for calibrating for photography. For video, only the settings you adjust in your TV (usually brightness/contrast and white temp) will affect it, the rest of the calibration only affects desktop colors, but not most video renderers. You'll need more dedicated software to do that. I think ControlCal can read the Eye One's output.
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