Nevo Q50 Owners Thread

[progprog]

Originally Posted by lovebohn

Open mouth, insert foot!!!

Don't worry I might be back with a few more questions.

Hey, no problem....we all do it sometimes. I'm just glad you didn't have some weird access issue that couldn't be resolved.

We're open 24/7....all questions welcome!

[chillspace]

Hehe...glad the problem is solved.

[jbworks]

I finally picked up a Q50 and a Nevo connect to play around since I mainly use Z-wave devices in my house. Now that I have played with it for a day, I'm at a loss on how to program it for a multizone, multiroom enviornment without using if then statements based on variables.

Using a remote like a URC MX980, I can set a variable for a room and another for a device allowing me to setup a if else statement on a single button to control whatever room or device is selected. Is anyone using one of these remotes as a whole house controller? How do you do it without either a ton of duplication and jumps or without using variables and if statements?

[Spacer]

Hey everyone:

Just wanted to let folks know that the broken backlight problem is definitely fixable. Mine stopped working about a year ago, and has been bugging me ever since. My battery was finally going, so while I had the unit open, I decided to look into the problem, and it is indeed a “loose connection” issue.

Between the underside of the buttons and the circuit board that senses the button presses is sandwiched a blue LED sheet on which the contacts are held together by pressure only. By building up the thickness of this panel, I was able to keep the contacts touching the leads on the motherboard, solving the problem.

Here’s what I did:

After undoing the four screws on the case (you’ll have to pull the case bottom outward to clear the toggle switch and on/off switch), pry the case open and disconnect the lead to the charger:



You have to do the next step in the right order, or you risk damaging the ribbon connectors- first pull the battery off (its only stuck on with double sided tape), and disconnect its lead. Next undo the black antenna lead- it just pulls off. Then undo the tape connector just next to the battery (slide the brown lock bar off, and pull it out). Then undo the four screws (circled) holding the top circuit board on and then gently pry back the metal clasp holding the screen in place (in the top-right of the picture).



Now Gently roll the first board and the screen to the side. The screen is only attached to the board by three ribbon connectors, so it helps to put your fingers on the screen and push from the bottom:



Now, we undo the undo the 8 screws holding the second board in place



Now lift the board off. This reveals the culprit, a white LED sheet that glows blue when power is on:



Take the sheet off. On the underside of the board are two metal connectors that need to stay in contact with the LED sheet. Here is the LED sheet showing the contact points that must touch the circuit board:



I cleaned these contacts with some alcohol, but that wasn’t enough to get it working. So I decided the best approach would be to build up the thickness of the LED sheet to maintain pressure on the contacts. I applied small squares of tape to the white side of the LED sheet, directly over the contact points that are on the other side so that there will be increased pressure on the contacts when the remote is reassembled and the screws tightened. I needed about 5 layers of tape:



I reconnected the ribbon tape and the battery lead with the remote still apart to test the fix. Light Finger pressure confirms we are now working:



That’s it. I would suggest testing again after reassembling the lower circuit board “sandwich” as I had to reopen and add another layer of tape to get the fix working with only “case pressure” applied.
Now I’m enjoying something I haven’t seen in over a year:





Hope this helps others stuck in the no mans land between UEI and an out of business dealer.

[progprog]

Wow, Spacer!! Thanks for going to the trouble to share al that information and the very helpful photos. I'm sure many users will find it invaluable.

It's become pretty clear to me that backlight failure is a real Achilles Heel with these remotes...it seems that most of them fail at some point. As I suspected, it looks like just regular handling works something loose....definitely a design flaw.

Suggestion: You've already gone to a lot of trouble, so I don't meant to sound ungrateful...just offering a suggestion. Since you have already have a photo editor (you circled parts), it would be really helpful if you could also number those highlighted parts and reference them in your text. I think we all get, as you emphasize, that's it's important to do this correctly. Making sure that users know exactly which connectors, etc. you refer to at any point could make it more fool-proof. Just a thought.

[chillspace]

Excellent post on the backlight...when mine eventually fails I'll make sure I look up this post again

[dhnjp1]

Originally Posted by Spacer

My battery was finally going, so while I had the unit open, I decided to look into the problem, and it is indeed a “loose connection” issue.

Awesome post! Everyone with a Q50 should save a copy of it and the pics.

Did you also replace the battery? If so, can you describe the replacement (exact OEM or clone? source?), plug-in or soldered, etc.?

--Dan

[Spacer]

Originally Posted by dhnjp1

Did you also replace the battery? If so, can you describe the replacement (exact OEM or clone? source?), plug-in or soldered, etc.?

--Dan

Any replacement battery you pick up (they are available on ebay or worcell.com, for example) will not have the protection circuit attached, so you will need to desolder the protection circuit (a tiny board attached to the battery) and resolder it. Once done, the battery just plugs into the motherboard, as shown in the pics.


The model number for the battery is further up in the thread, but it is a Sony FUKUSHIMA which is freely available on the internet:

http://worcell.com/product_info.php?products_id=74356

So the battery swap is not crazy hard, but it isn't plug and play, either.

[sk20]

Is there a way to modify the unit to make battery replacement plug-and-play? I mean, you already have it open, you're soldering, you're cleaning contacts--maybe that's a good time to also make the battery holder a clip-in instead of solder-in?

[Korey]

Originally Posted by Spacer

Hey everyone:

Just wanted to let folks know that the broken backlight problem is definitely fixable.

Hope this helps others stuck in the no mans land between UEI and an out of business dealer.

Thanks Spacer,

My backlight just died on my replacement Q50, out of business dealer, pulled it apart, repaired it, and now have a functioning backlight again.

All Good.

[jalyst]

How cheap can these be had now? I don't want to spend much more than $300usd...

LT I intend to build a sophisticated HA/C system by tying together some oss projects and choice picked hardware....
But in the interim I just want a relatively cheap yet sophisticated learning remote only for gear in my home theatre room.

I know this remote is prolly leaps and bounds ahead from a programability perspective....
But how does it's ergonomics, build quality, screen quality etc. compare to say the H900 or Harmony One?

[progprog]

Originally Posted by jalyst

How cheap can these be had now? I don't want to spend much more than $300usd...

LT I intend to build a sophisticated HA/C system by tying together some oss projects and choice picked hardware....
But in the interim I just want a relatively cheap yet sophisticated learning remote only for gear in my home theatre room.

I know this remote is prolly leaps and bounds ahead from a programability perspective....
But how does it's ergonomics, build quality, screen quality etc. compare to say the H900 or Harmony One?

You could probably find a bare Q50 for around that price if you looked hard.....or maybe a used one. For most people, though, it's not really a product where you'd want to go with some shady source just to get rock bottom pricing. You get absolutely no support, and some people have ended up with expensive bricks after going that route. The few new ones that show up on eBay are typically around $400 for the remote alone, or $500-550 for the Q50/NC-50 package.

Okay, that said, the people on this thread obviously prefer the Q50 over Harmony remotes. Ergonomics is critical with remotes, but it's a highly personal thing to evaluate. Some people really like two-handed, console-style remotes, some like one-handed. Some people love touchscreen control, others lean toward discrete hard buttons. For me personally, the Q50 offered the perfect balance. I wanted a one-handed remote with hard-button transport controls that could finally fulfill my desire to control everything with one remote. The Q50 was the only unit I found that fit the bill, and we've been happily using two of them for 1-1/2 yrs now. I can't say I recommend the company, but I love the remote.

I don't know what most of this means: "LT I intend to build a sophisticated HA/C system by tying together some oss projects....," but it sounds like it's not relevant to your current buying decision. If your primary need is a "cheap yet sophisticated learning remote," that reads more like a Harmony to me.

[jalyst]

Thanks, at this stage I only want something relatively cheap/simple compared to the top-end UR's from: URC, Nevo, Pronto etc.
$300usd is about my limit...

The H900 sounds like a tiny evolutionary improvement over the One and according to some the screen is slightly worse & the RF is very flakey.
I don't absolutely need RF and as the One still does sequences (macros) unlike the 900, the choice between the two become easy imo...

And then there's remotes from the likes of URC which are even better from a programmability perspective for reasonable prices.
But it depends on whether I'm really going to leverage that programmability or if it will never get used...

[progprog]

Originally Posted by jalyst

Thanks, at this stage I only want something relatively cheap/simple compared to the top-end UR's from: URC, Nevo, Pronto etc.
$300usd is about my limit...

The Q50 and S70 are Nevo's top-end remotes, which they now call their Professional Series, and the great flexibility of their programming, which includes RF options (z-wave, actually) is really what these kinds of remotes are all about.

If you'd never use the z-wave functionality and don't need the programming options of a top-end remote, Nevo's new Custom Series might offer something more to your liking. These are really just Harmony-type remotes with a Nevo label and wizard-based programming that works much more like the Harmony model. They are less-expensive, certainly, so maybe that's something that would suit your needs and budget a little better.

[jalyst]

Thanks for the thoughts, as I recall the C3 was heavily canned
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...01167&posted=1

I would be prepared to spend up to $475 but that's about it...

Features that are more useful for HA applications are irrelevant for my needs.
But highly flexible/yet intuitive programmability is appealing...

Anyway I've started a brand new thread as my posts in this thread are inappropriate.
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...1#post17541971

Thanks again.

[progprog]

Originally Posted by jalyst

Thanks, I would be prepared to spend up to $475 but that's it...

Features that are more useful for HA applications are irrelevant for my needs.
But highly flexible/yet intuitive programmability is appealing...

Home automation is a relatively new part of the Q50 feature set, and is certainly not its focus. I think it aims to be a very robust, flexible programmable remote for home theaters of all sizes and sophistication. It works well for a basic IR set-up, but just as well for a more complex system with lots of components that use a variety of control methods.

My advice is the same for you as it is for anyone shopping for a remote:
It's far more productive to ask what your needs and preferences are, and then find the remote that is the best fit for you based on your answers. I think it's an almost useless exercise to start with a search for the "best" remote. It's a piece of custom equipment, it's the piece of HT gear we interact with the most.....we have to like using it, no matter how much it costs or how good it's supposed to be, or it will have been a poor choice.

IMO, it's almost nonsensical to be deciding between, for example, these three remotes...they are very different and suit very different preferences and needs.



So again, decide on the touchscreen/hardbutton balance you like. Decide on the form factor that you find most comfortable. Figure out what features you require for your particular gear, and decide what convenience features you really want. I can pretty much guarantee that if you go through that exercise, your list of options will become very short.

[progprog]

Originally Posted by jalyst

Anyway I've started a brand new thread as my posts in this thread are inappropriate.
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...1#post17541971

As I just indicated in my previous post, I honestly think that approach..."tell me what remote is best for $400-475" is, frankly, ass-backwards. Think about it, does it really matter for your application, why I prefer a Nevo Q50 over a Nevo S70? Or why someone else is a rabid fan of the Pronto TSU9600 (many people are)? Or why my neighbor rejected my offer to set up a Nevo in favor of a basic Harmony? (Because the Harmony looks the most like the remotes he's used to...)

If you narrow down what you want, the choices narrow themselves. There's really no need to try and stir up debate amongst other people who have already chosen their remotes, as the most useful information for you won't come from them.

Originally Posted by jalyst

Thanks for the thoughts, as I recall the C3 was heavily canned

Indeed, they haven't been out very long at all, but installers are NOT impressed with them. I wouldn't want one, and I think they were a terrible business move for Nevo. But you originally specified a lower budget limit and little interest in the more advanced features of the Nevo Pro remotes. Personally, I think a Harmony is a much better way to go than these Custom Series Nevos, if this is the type of remote you want. Harmony is cheaper, much more readily available, and offers infinitely better support.

[jalyst]

I understand the points you're making & don't worry they're already factored into my deicsion making process....
But I still see value in hearing from those whom have had exposure to more than one make/model; and hence have some basis for comparison.

Thanks again

[MasonStorm@AVS]

I too have a Q50 that worked for a while (22 months) but has suddenly become a brick. After turning it on, the screen with the logo comes on, an hourglass turns over and over for about 15-20 minutes, and then it reports that it is missing a key "Mozart" file. This is true whether the power switch is in the top position, or the middle position.

So I tried to reflash the firmware. Surprisingly, Nevo Studio Pro recognizes the Q50 when it is in the state above, but when I enter the firmware upgrade process, turn off the Q50, and turn it back on with the jogwheel depressed, it won't recognize it anymore. The Q50's screen does indeed read "USB DOWNLOAD," but the Studio Pro no longer recognizes it. After many minutes, the system times out, saying the update process failed because no remote was detected.

I believe these Q50s have one of those tiny, micro hard drives as their memory; if you hold your Q50 up to your ear, you can often hear the little hard drive spinning. And I think this is the fatal design flaw of these remotes; that's a moving-parts component that is destined to fail sooner or later. Flash memory would work longer, I believe. In any event, I have no warranty, and I was wondering if anyone knows of a repair shop to which I could send in the unit and pay for reprogramming/repair.

Thanks!

[sk20]

Waaaaaa! Our Q50 turned into a brick last night. I pressed a button, the IR receiver on the wall went nuts and I could see on the TV that it was as if a button was being pressed 10 times a second repeatedly, and then the remote went completely dark. The blue charging light in the end still goes on when it's in the cradle, but pushing the hard buttons on the remote has no effect--no IR output. And there's no backlight.

I should be able to send it in for repair (even under warranty), but before doing that I'm wondering if anyone recognizes these symptoms? Could it just need to have the programming re-downloaded to it, or do I have a brick?

[progprog]

Originally Posted by MasonStorm@AVS

I too have a Q50 that worked for a while (22 months) but has suddenly become a brick. After turning it on, the screen with the logo comes on, an hourglass turns over and over for about 15-20 minutes, and then it reports that it is missing a key "Mozart" file. This is true whether the power switch is in the top position, or the middle position.

So I tried to reflash the firmware. Surprisingly, Nevo Studio Pro recognizes the Q50 when it is in the state above, but when I enter the firmware upgrade process, turn off the Q50, and turn it back on with the jogwheel depressed, it won't recognize it anymore. The Q50's screen does indeed read "USB DOWNLOAD," but the Studio Pro no longer recognizes it. After many minutes, the system times out, saying the update process failed because no remote was detected.

I believe these Q50s have one of those tiny, micro hard drives as their memory; if you hold your Q50 up to your ear, you can often hear the little hard drive spinning. And I think this is the fatal design flaw of these remotes; that's a moving-parts component that is destined to fail sooner or later. Flash memory would work longer, I believe. In any event, I have no warranty, and I was wondering if anyone knows of a repair shop to which I could send in the unit and pay for reprogramming/repair.

Thanks!

That really blows that it crapped out on you like that. But just to clarify, there's no hard drive in there.....it does indeed have flash memory. That slight hissing sound is electronic, not mechanical.

Only Nevo could repair it, and for the most part, they don't actually repair these things, since it's not cost effective. They replace them, while charging as if it were a repair. You would need to find a dealer/installer willing to handle the process for you, as Nevo doesn't deal with end-users.

[progprog]

Originally Posted by sk20

Waaaaaa! Our Q50 turned into a brick last night. I pressed a button, the IR receiver on the wall went nuts and I could see on the TV that it was as if a button was being pressed 10 times a second repeatedly, and then the remote went completely dark. The blue charging light in the end still goes on when it's in the cradle, but pushing the hard buttons on the remote has no effect--no IR output. And there's no backlight.

I should be able to send it in for repair (even under warranty), but before doing that I'm wondering if anyone recognizes these symptoms? Could it just need to have the programming re-downloaded to it, or do I have a brick?

It's certainly worth trying to re-flash the firmware and re-download the configuration. What you describe sounds mechanical, though, as in a button internally stuck in the pressed position. If you have warranty coverage (and basic reset, reflash, reinstall measures don't help), I'd definitely take advantage of that and get it repaired/replaced.

[jandk]

Hi all - hoping someone can help me. I've had the Q50 for about a year now and there's a niggiling problem that is slowly driving me insane.

I can't tell you whether the thing has always had the problem either, i don't think it has but i could be wrong...

Anyway, i've got my home screen setup to do several single button commands that do about 4 IR commands turning things on and getting TV etc going but whenever i do this (no matter what i'm doing, TV, DVD, Wii etc - as long as it's on that home screen and has a series of commands) once the remote is finished with the commands and everything is up and running the remote becomes virtually dead for anywhere from 10 seconds to 150+ seconds, as in it won't let me change channels, change volume, nothing...it's as if it's still processing commands or something is not letting the IR signals through for that small period of time. If i sit there continually pressing volume (for example) when it does become active it's buggy as in it'll work but i need to continue with my press-press-pressing it but then after a few seconds it works perfectly with no issue.

I should also say, the remote its self is fine during that 'dead' time, i can go through the screens but it just appears not to be able to send commands, despite the little red IR signals at the top of the screen whenever i push a button.

I have my doubts anyone will know what i'm talking about as i haven't found anyone talking about anything similiar at all but if you do i'd really appreciate a hand, i think i'll need to get someone out to look at it.

One thing i haven't tried is disconnecting the Nevo Connect (nc-50) as that may be playing up or something...

thanks for reading!

[TWilly]

jandk, in your macros, do you perhaps have a Jump to your final page, followed by a Wait? Typically, you would want to have the Waits BEFORE the last Jump... Just a suggestion,

[progprog]

Twilly: In my experience, you can't do anything during WAIT times. He says he can still change pages, etc. It just won't send commands. Very odd.

jandk: My first suggestion would be to reset the remote and reload your configuration. Double-check your macros so you know exactly what bebavior to expect with each start up. As Twilly suggests, make sure all the waits are appropriate in duration and placement. Finally, I'd recommend against all the button-pushing when it's not responding. (I know from experience that when one gets frustrated with something like this, clicking gets more "aggressive" and this can end up causing more trouble than you started with.)

[TWilly]

progprog, yes, I thought about that a few hours after I posted and was on my way to a customer call. Sorry about the misinformation...

[jbworks]

The remote has been sold. Thank you for showing interest in it.

I have a Nevo Q50 and Nevo Connect base station that has been sitting on my desk for the last 6 months. I wrote a couple of test programs for it and used it for about a week. If anyone is interested in buying the combo, send me a private message. You will be happy with the price.

[bryansj]

I've got a couple questions about this remote.

Do you have to use the stylus for the touchscreen or can you just use your finger?

How robust is the remote? My second Harmony 890 is screwing up (in warranty) after being dropped too many times on a wood floor. The first one had problems with the volume+ button and now my current one has an issue with the Pause button.

I'd like to "upgrade" out of the Harmony level of remotes and the 900 isn't an option. I haven't called to replace the second 890, but I plan to get it replaced and then sell it. I have five Z-wave light switches and want to maintain RF control to my devices. Programming isn't a concern, but having access to the software is.

[remoteshoppe]

Originally Posted by bryansj

I've got a couple questions about this remote.

Do you have to use the stylus for the touchscreen or can you just use your finger?

I've had one set up for well over a year and have used the stylus 1 to fix the clock. I never use it.

Originally Posted by bryansj

How robust is the remote? My second Harmony 890 is screwing up (in warranty) after being dropped too many times on a wood floor. The first one had problems with the volume+ button and now my current one has an issue with the Pause button.

The UEI remotes are definitely more durable than the Harmony but I think you'll also find that you're a lot more careful with it. At least I am. The H890 still feels like a Tivo remote and it's just too easy to toss onto the couch from 10' away. The large touchscreen at the top of the Nevo's remind you to handle them more nicely. Although, I have dropped them several times and they still work perfectly.

Originally Posted by bryansj

I'd like to "upgrade" out of the Harmony level of remotes and the 900 isn't an option. I haven't called to replace the second 890, but I plan to get it replaced and then sell it. I have five Z-wave light switches and want to maintain RF control to my devices. Programming isn't a concern, but having access to the software is.

If you're using Z-wave right now the UEI Nevo is the top of the food chain. The Monster AVL300 is also an option but that's really just their version of the H890 remote. Although Monster has done a lot to improve the Zwave integration.

[FSE]

Thanks Spacer!!
My Nevo key lights had stopped working some time ago. I searched the forum for info and ran across your post. Did the fix this morning and everything is working again.
Biggest problems I had was getting the battery off and popping open the case.
One note of caution: I put on too much tape at first which didn't allow the keys to work. I ended up with just two layers of electricians tape, which is working for now.
Bill