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The Official Pioneer 9G non-Elite KURO Owner's Discussion Thread

2M views 15K replies 2K participants last post by  John Hooper 
#1 ·
#13,203 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Eddy13 /forum/post/18365289


wouldnt it make sense to adjust to rgb full or no

Configuring NE Kuros (and Kuros in general) with the PS3 is well understood. You can either follow the recommended settings or not but if you want to understand the issues you need to do a bit of reading. I'd suggest you start with this five year old article and then read the video section of the PS3 FAQ .
 
#13,204 ·
Well of done the a and b comparison and rgb full for games with kuro set at auto works best for me and i see better shadow detail ect and for movies rgb limited works best with kuro at auto.. i also have the bd video output a ypb.. now i also have the 1080 p 24 on option and not auto as well
 
#13,205 ·
Thank you for the kind words. It was my pleasure. Enjoy your display.
Quote:
Originally Posted by brucefan /forum/post/18356507


Going to answer my own question. Decided to bite the bullet and had D-Nice calibrate my set (incredibly nice and down to earth guy btw). I have one of the earlier sets from back in 2008 in case that makes a difference. For background on me...I'm not a videophile...I don't watch TV in a dark home theater only room in the basement...I do like the LCD look once in a while (gentle with the flaming) especially for sports...and I have no clue what I'm looking at on a calibration report. With that said...


Pre-anything

Out of the box I was thrilled with the 6020 (came from a Mits rear projection that wasn't calibrated) and actually loved Optimum mode. As time went on I started to appreciate Movie mode more and Optimum just started looking cartoon-like to me. Unfortunately Movie mode just had a yellow tint to it that I couldn't get past so I'd go back and forth with Standard and Performance.


Using DNice's offsets and ControlCal

After using the offsets, the whites in Movie mode became actually white and lost the yellow tint. From that point on I stuck with Movie mode...standard and performance now looked blueish (not sure if it was the offsets that did that or me appreciating Movie more and realizing those other modes were just "off"). Still though...during the day or if the lights were on a higher setting...movie mode still looked a little flat to me.


After DNice's calibration

D-Nice commented that Movie mode pre-calibration was pretty close to what it would be post and wasn't sure if I'd notice a difference. He also calibrated Peformance mode. After he was done (about 2 hours), I didn't really notice much of a difference with Movie mode but Peformance looked 10x better and was now a valid setting to use for me. Over the next few days of switching back and forth, I now use Peformance mode during the day and Movie at night. Now though, when watching movie mode at night with the lights dim or out (have bias lighting), the picture is absolutely stunning. There are definate differences pre/post calibration and now the colors look spot on and it just seems like there's more depth...hard to explain. Don't think it's in my head since the wife made a comment about it last night and she couldn't care less if we were watching a black and white tv.


So my recommendation if anyone is wondering if they should calibrate...I'd say yes it's well worth it. If not, then at the very very very very least get ControlCal and do the offsets (unless later production builds are different and the offsets wouldn't work? No clue about that...but for mine they worked beautifully)
 
#13,206 ·
As posted earlier, I bought a 6020 last week. It is doing the break-in thing. This weekend, I plan to install the dedicated service line and I have some high-grade 20A outlets and a couple cords with 20A ends from an audio system. Will this TV handle 20amp service and, if so, also benefit from using a 20A cord?


Also, if someone can recommend a calibration expert for this particular set who services the Bay Area (California), I'd appreciate a heads up. Here, or via PM. Thanks.
 
#13,207 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by 4yanx /forum/post/18371576


As posted earlier, I bought a 6020 last week. It is doing the break-in thing. This weekend, I plan to install the dedicated service line and I have some high-grade 20A outlets and a couple cords with 20A ends from an audio system. Will this TV handle 20amp service and, if so, also benefit from using a 20A cord?


Also, if someone can recommend a calibration expert for this particular set who services the Bay Area (California), I'd appreciate a heads up. Here, or via PM. Thanks.

I will be in the Bay area 4/15 - 4/19. If you would like me to calibrate your display, email me by clicking on "Touring Calibrator" in my signature
 
#13,209 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by 4yanx /forum/post/18371576


As posted earlier, I bought a 6020 last week. It is doing the break-in thing. This weekend, I plan to install the dedicated service line and I have some high-grade 20A outlets and a couple cords with 20A ends from an audio system. Will this TV handle 20amp service and, if so, also benefit from using a 20A cord?


Also, if someone can recommend a calibration expert for this particular set who services the Bay Area (California), I'd appreciate a heads up. Here, or via PM. Thanks.

Your equipment is protected by your circiut size. a 20 is no different than a 15, other than you put can more on a 20. just remember a breaker is required to trip at 80% load (20 amp @ 16: 15 amp @ 12) so stay under if your close run another circuit. but try and keep them on the same phase leg since your equipment is interconnected less chance over voltage. just remember a breaker is there to protect not let it burn up before it trips. hope this helps
 
#13,210 ·
I spent the last few days playing around with some of the RS232 commands listed in the service manual. Anyone with a straight through serial cable and hyperterminal can use them. Disclosure: Please don't play around with these commands unless you know exactly what you're doing, especially those which are entered in the SM.


Some I found interesting include the different picture modes shown below which actually CAN be selected in and outside of the SM, but of course none of the changes stick once the panel is turned off. For instance open a hyperterminal session and type: pavs06 and the tv switches to Pure mode. Alternatively pavs08 changes to a bright ISFday. Interestingly if you hit display on the remote it still shows "Movie" but you can actually go into the settings and alter this quasi ISF-day PQ setting. Of course turning the TV off and back on reverts to settings stored in NVram.






BTW none of this information is new, as D-nice played with these settings last year. Nevertheless I found a few interesting tidbits about what could potentially make the NE different then the Elite, and here's what I found.


1. The panels are virtually identical, as just about all of the assembly's (main, x, y, sensor) share the exact same part numbers.


2. Typically electronic devices are set for a model and region when it leaves the plant, usually somewhere in the service menu that determines which features to activate, such as PAL mode. Issuing the QSE command shoots off this information in cryptic code but there's nowhere in the SM that tells you how to set the model and region, for obvious reasons. There are some values in the SM that the manual describes as "reserved" with a cryptic outputs of "****". Not sure if these values are being hidden purposely, or I'm barking up the wrong tree.


3. There's an adjustable identification resistor on the the X drv assy that identifies the model to the sensor assy but it's unclear if the distinction is 50 vs 60 inch or NE vs elite. The part number of the x assy is: AWV2546 which pioneer parts says works for both the 5020FD and Pro-111. Again I could be barking up the wrong tree. The ID resistor has to match the software build of the unit or else it will throw an error code. Even though the FW updates are technically the same file, that doesn't mean both units extract the same pieces from it during the update. The SM info page lists the software version. It'd be interesting to know if the builds are the same.


4. Serial numbers can be manually entered in the SM. Perhaps changing the SN an elite range might do something? hmmm



Besides that the manual states there's 4 white balance tables within the display adjustable by switching whats called the raster mask. a 60hz, 50hz and 72hz and 75hz. Go figure.



Boy I wish I had a cracked 5020FD to play with.
 
#13,211 ·
recommendations anyone? Just had my 5020 FS delivered from best buy....

looks fantastic BTW.....however,best buy uses stickers on the bezel(2,one on the bottom left...other on the bottom right)I am having a devil of a time getting the stickum off the bezel...I used alcohol and it helped..but did not do a thorough job...Not wanting to damage the bezel with goo-gone or something like that...is there any cleaning product you can recommend to me?

Thanks
 
#13,212 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by wrinklefree /forum/post/18372549


I spent the last few days playing around with some of the RS232 commands listed in the service manual. Anyone with a straight through serial cable and hyperterminal can use them. Disclosure: Please don't play around with these commands unless you know exactly what you're doing, especially those which are entered in the SM.


Some I found interesting include the different picture modes shown below which actually CAN be selected in and outside of the SM, but of course none of the changes stick once the panel is turned off. For instance open a hyperterminal session and type: pavs06 and the tv switches to Pure mode. Alternatively pavs08 changes to a bright ISFday. Interestingly if you hit display on the remote it still shows "Movie" but you can actually go into the settings and alter this quasi ISF-day PQ setting. Of course turning the TV off and back on reverts to settings stored in NVram.






BTW none of this information is new, as D-nice played with these settings last year. Nevertheless I found a few interesting tidbits about what could potentially make the NE different then the Elite, and here's what I found.


1. The panels are virtually identical, as just about all of the assembly's (main, x, y, sensor) share the exact same part numbers.


2. Typically electronic devices are set for a model and region when it leaves the plant, usually somewhere in the service menu that determines which features to activate, such as PAL mode. Issuing the QSE command shoots off this information in cryptic code but there's nowhere in the SM that tells you how to set the model and region, for obvious reasons. There are some values in the SM that the manual describes as "reserved" with a cryptic outputs of "****". Not sure if these values are being hidden purposely, or I'm barking up the wrong tree.


3. There's an adjustable identification resistor on the the X drv assy that identifies the model to the sensor assy but it's unclear if the distinction is 50 vs 60 inch or NE vs elite. The part number of the x assy is: AWV2546 which pioneer parts says works for both the 5020FD and Pro-111. Again I could be barking up the wrong tree. The ID resistor has to match the software build of the unit or else it will throw an error code. Even though the FW updates are technically the same file, that doesn't mean both units extract the same pieces from it during the update. The SM info page lists the software version. It'd be interesting to know if the builds are the same.


4. Serial numbers can be manually entered in the SM. Perhaps changing the SN an elite range might do something? hmmm



Besides that the manual states there's 4 white balance tables within the display adjustable by switching whats called the raster mask. a 60hz, 50hz and 72hz and 75hz. Go figure.



Boy I wish I had a cracked 5020FD to play with.

It's all Greek to me, but I'm seriously impressed with the amount of time and effort you guys put into solving the mystery of the 9g Kuro. It's wonderful to think that there could be even more accomplished with these displays as long as people keep tinkering.
 
#13,213 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by bill288 /forum/post/18372245


Had my 500m calibrated this past sunday by D-Nice, it looked really good before, but its had to believe there was room for improvement. After D-Nice was done it looked even better, i think i fell in love with the isf-day.

Thanks D-Nice

You're welcome
 
#13,214 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by D-Nice /forum/post/18373549


You're welcome

So when are you going to be in Oregon ?
 
#13,215 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by hodges69 /forum/post/18372758


recommendations anyone? Just had my 5020 FS delivered from best buy....

looks fantastic BTW.....however,best buy uses stickers on the bezel(2,one on the bottom left...other on the bottom right)I am having a devil of a time getting the stickum off the bezel...I used alcohol and it helped..but did not do a thorough job...Not wanting to damage the bezel with goo-gone or something like that...is there any cleaning product you can recommend to me?

Thanks

Had the same thing on my display 5020. I used a small drop of Oops from goo gone on a paper towel, then rubbed the residue left. It took it right off. You have to be very careful though, it could also remove the paint if you use too much or rub too hard.
 
#13,217 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by TheFactor /forum/post/18373589


So when are you going to be in Oregon ?

Bump For D-Nice
 
#13,218 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by smeg36 /forum/post/18375123


Had the same thing on my display 5020. I used a small drop of Oops from goo gone on a paper towel, then rubbed the residue left. It took it right off. You have to be very careful though, it could also remove the paint if you use too much or rub too hard.

Don't use (rub) a paper towel on the shinny black plastic bezel
- there is a very good chance you'll leave swirl marks from the rubbing.


a 'lil WD40 on a cotton cloth (towel) would be better first, the WD40 will help dissolve the gummy glue of the decal. Then use the towel w a 'lil bit of water dampness to wipe away the residue of the WD40. The plastic bezel isn't painted. This "chore" may take you longer than 15 minutes, maybe not, be careful. YES - the petroleum product will help dissolve the glue on the BEZEL ONLY - I've done it many times on glass/plastic etc.


DON'T USE A PAPER TOWEL.
 
#13,219 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by tony9 /forum/post/18379842



a 'lil WD40

LOL
?
 
#13,220 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by TheFactor /forum/post/18379557


Bump For D-Nice

When I have 7 additional people sign up for a tour (it doesn't matter what type of display they have)
 
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