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433K views 1K replies 153 participants last post by  Reddig 
#1 ·

Updated (index added, original post follows):

Project: DIY HT, approx 15'x26'x10' in basement dug under existing house, IB sub, absorption/diffusion acoustic design, motorized hidden entrance, star ceiling, room within room construction, CIH curved screen, three rows.

Current Status:









Enjoying the theater and still working on the entrance


The starting point (a distant memory):


Thread Index:

1. Basement dig! start / complete

2. Adjacent Garage Remodel: start / complete

3. Framing: start / complete

4. HVAC

5. Skinning the room with OSB

6. Drywall: start / complete

7. IB Sub: start / complete

8. Riser

9. Stage

10. Soffits

11. Star Ceiling: start / complete

12. Design Details & Color

13. Acoustic Treatment: Front / Sides

14. QRD Diffusor Panels: start / complete

15. Quiet Extraction Fan

16. Hardwood Trim: Soffits start Soffits complete

17. Soffit lights: start

18. Carpet & hardwood Floor

19. Seats are in!

20. Walnut wall trim

21. Triggered Outlets

22. 2.4:1 Curved Screen/Masking start / completed (separate thread )

23. Columns start finish

24. Hushbox and A-lens build calibration

25. Media Library

26. Backlight Poster Boxes

Gear:

Subs: Front: DIY IB design with 4x18" Fi drivers

         Rear: 2x Klipsch KW120-THX

Speakers: Klipsch THX Ultra 2 (wired for 11.2 with 9.2 active)

Amps: 2x Berhinger EP4000 (IB sub/rear sub/buttkicker)

         1x Outlaw Model 7700 (7 channel)

         1x Outlaw Model 7500 (5 channels)

Pre/Pro: Integra DHC-80.1

Sub EQ: Berhinger DCX2496 (for 3 channel sub EQ)

Source Player: Oppo BDP-83

Projector: JVC RS40 / Prismasonic HD-6000R cylindrical anamorphic lens

Screen: DIY 130" CIH (2.4:1) w/ automated masking

Media Server: Dune Smart H1

Media Vault: QNAP TS-859+ (16Tb)

Other: Sonos wireless music distribution

          ButtKicker LFE

          Google ChromeCast

UPS: APC J15 (AV equipment)

       APC Smart-UPS (NAS, network)

Rack: Middle Atlantic sliding rack with custom faceplates

  

===================== Original Post =====================


Hi All,


So my dedicated home theater tale begins and I've no idea when it's going to end...


First a thanks for the fantastic goldmine of collective expertise on this forum and the wealth of inspiration. It's been nearly 10 years since the HT bug infected me, about 1 year of reading this forum and thus far about 8 weeks of construction.

The Details:

Approx 30' x 15'4" x 10' space created by converting a under house crawl space into a basement.

Emphasis on acoustic isolation: built as a room within a room, independent ceiling joists, isolated subfloor, DD or TD & GG, communicating door entry, etc

Approx 11' curved CIH AT screen, stage, raised seating

Two rows of three chairs and bar seating at the rear

"Sealed Box" construction - soffits, electrical, etc will all be run inside of the drywall shell

Named "The Old Vic"


I think the most unusual aspect is the starting point. I don't live in the mid-west where everybody has huge basements yet I really wanted an isolated space (well actually the WAF mandated it ;-). So I came up with the idea of excavating out one of my crawl space areas under the house and retrofitting a basement! I'm doing just about all the work myself except for the excavation... I know when I'm beat.


Here is the design so far. It does not show any acoustic treatment/basetraps although these are planned but rather concentrates on the use of space and audio isolation from the rest of the house. I'm curious to hear people's thoughts...

The theater layout:



Floor & Ceiling Construction:
 
 
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14
#402 ·
I finally have a workable solution for my interior hush box fan. The previous in-line fan was hopeless, so I purchased the quietest bathroom fan I could find (the Panasonic FV08VQ3) and promptly tore it apart. I discarded the metal box, the grill, one mounting plate and the one-way valve and reassembled inside my sealed MDF box. The fan assembly was mounted directly to the original exhaust duct with sheet metal screws (for the square to round hole transition). Then this was suspended using neoprene mounts inside the box. Once the bottom cover was attached the fan creates a vacuum and pulls in air through the 5" intake pipe that leads to my hush box. At about 75% speed it is completely silent. At 100% I can just make out that it is running. My non-scientific test (using my aviation air speed indicator) suggests I can pull up to 75cfm which I believe is sufficient. I'm so glad I didn't have to rework the soffit to fit the fan outside the room.




I wasn't sure this was going to work -- but it did!
 
#1,182 ·
I finally have a workable solution for my interior hush box fan. The previous in-line fan was hopeless, so I purchased the quietest bathroom fan I could find (the Panasonic FV08VQ3) and promptly tore it apart. I discarded the metal box, the grill, one mounting plate and the one-way valve and reassembled inside my sealed MDF box. The fan assembly was mounted directly to the original exhaust duct with sheet metal screws (for the square to round hole transition). Then this was suspended using neoprene mounts inside the box. Once the bottom cover was attached the fan creates a vacuum and pulls in air through the 5" intake pipe that leads to my hush box. At about 75% speed it is completely silent. At 100% I can just make out that it is running. My non-scientific test (using my aviation air speed indicator) suggests I can pull up to 75cfm which I believe is sufficient. I'm so glad I didn't have to rework the soffit to fit the fan outside the room.



I wasn't sure this was going to work -- but it did!
All,
I asked Paul in an IM what he used to control the fan speed and trigger the fan on/off. For everyone's benefit, here is his reply:

1. speed control is via a cheap fan speed controller like this one (you will often find them for controlling duct fans / attic fans). I think I found mine on ebay for about $9.

2. Switching on/off is done via a thermostat designed for fans / vents. Like this one. There may well be cheaper ones. I used one in my hush box and another in the rack closet. You set the level so the fan is off at normal room temperatures and switches on as the temp increases via the projector warming.
With my Fantech FG4 fan quite loud mechanically even inside my hush box and dialed way down in speed, I am soooooooo considering going with a Panasonic exhaust fan teardown approach like this!
 
#403 ·
You did make two of these so I could buy one from you right? LOL. I'm still wrestling with what I should do with my setup
 
#404 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by moggie /forum/post/18520543



Lovin it Moggie!!!! The recesses for the LCR's are the knat's @$$. Really a clean look..


I wish you had finished your baffle wall before me, so I could have copied that feature.. But I can rest easy now knowing that I dont have to fear finishing anything else before you again. I can just sit back and plagarize



Brad
 
#406 ·
Moggie,


Congrats on the successful rework of the Panasonic Whisper Quiet fan!


Seeing how you gutted the Panasonic chassis - a question.


Perhaps you could measure and tell me the exterior dimensions for the Panasonic chassis box (in other words; the rough-in dimensions)? I am thinking I want to replace my EQ room fan and need to determine if I have enough space, or if I need to make some modifications?


Thanks in Advance!
 
#407 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by cuzed2 /forum/post/18549093


Seeing how you gutted the Panasonic chassis - a question.


Perhaps you could measure and tell me the exterior dimensions for the Panasonic chassis box (in other words; the rough-in dimensions)? I am thinking I want to replace my EQ room fan and need to determine if I have enough space, or if I need to make some modifications?


Thanks in Advance!

Hi Craig, the fan is already sealed and covered, but I know the chassis box for this model (FV08VQ3) is 10 7/8" by 10 7/8". It is approximately 9" deep. It has a 4" metal duct that protrudes slightly beyond the 11" square dimensions. The white vent trim cover is 13" square. I recall there being two larger capacity models that are also louder with a slightly larger rough in dimensions although all are designed to fit between standard 16" joists. I presume it is the depth dimension that is tight with you? Hope this helps.
 
#409 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by KNKKNK /forum/post/18548288


I wish you had finished your baffle wall before me, so I could have copied that feature.. But I can rest easy now knowing that I dont have to fear finishing anything else before you again. I can just sit back and plagarize

I doubt it Brad. My bet is that you come up with a dozen ideas that I'll wish I thought of


Quote:
Originally Posted by SinisterJ /forum/post/18551792


Great work Moggie! The cleanliness of your build is amazing it makes mine look like a tornado came through my theater... I can barely walk around in it right now!

Thanks, but I generally take photos at the end of the day after I've cleaned up. That said, I'm fortunate that my shop is right next to the theater so I'm usually able to keep the theater clean.
 
#410 ·
Brought to you by.....


LOL
 
#411 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Moggie /forum/post/18550516


Hi Craig, the fan is already sealed and covered, but I know the chassis box for this model (FV08VQ3) is 10 7/8" by 10 7/8". It is approximately 9" deep. It has a 4" metal duct that protrudes slightly beyond the 11" square dimensions. The white vent trim cover is 13" square. I recall there being two larger capacity models that are also louder with a slightly larger rough in dimensions although all are designed to fit between standard 16" joists. I presume it is the depth dimension that is tight with you? Hope this helps.

Moggie,


Thanks - exactly what I was looking for!
 
#413 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mfusick /forum/post/18595123


Any updates on this thread?


Thoroughly enjoying following this...

Glad that you are following (and enjoying). I must admit to having a touch of burnout lately but I have made some progress that I can post. I'll gather the pics...
 
#414 ·
I've been spending most of my time working on the ceiling, specifically the hardwood soffits / light trays. Progress has slowed a little since I've been enjoying the good weather and frankly have found working in the very dark theater a little depressing - flat black paint really does absorb light (and moral).


The soffit has two tiers fitted in sequence. The first layer is up and I'm about half way through the second. Here are some pics.


The first level has a double edge. I also made some cutouts to ensure I had the recommended spacing from the non-IC light fixtures I'm using. Also, I realized that at acute angles I would be able to see over the lower light tray and make out the light fixtures. The solution was to add a 1.5" vertical lip that would mask the lights.




The plan is to add walnut edge moldings to the maple flat work. This is the mock up I used to get the proportions correct although I'm still not quite sure on the actual edge profile and the picture shows offcuts roughly the correct size.




After the first level was fitted I moved on to the lower level. I wanted to do a good job on the critical joints so I built the largest size pieces my workshop would allow and them used my trusty drywall lift to hoist them into place. I also fitted a backing to help attach the rest of the moldings in an effort to minimize nail holes. On top of this I added some aluminium (British spelling there!) tape and two circuits of rope light clips.




It got to be a bit of squeeze but I managed to screw the tray into place by passing my impact driver in between the trays and screwing into the backside of the tray. The outer edge was attached with nails/screws placed at an angle into the side of the ply. The result is that there are no visible holes to fill.




Here's a shot of the front (boy am I sick of the curves ;-) before any finish has been applied. I'm pretty happy with the joints given how awkward this turned out to be.




Before completing the lower soffit at the rear I need to figure out the hush box. The plan is to have it partially hidden in the beam that runs behind the rear row of seats. I'm still not sure how low I want to mount the projector (or which projector I'm going to purchase) so at this point I concentrated on getting the mounting plate installed and coupling up the cooling vent. Here you can see how the upper light trays have been joined and a vent channel has been formed in the beam so I can suck air out of either the left or right side of the projector.




You have to imagine the walnut crowns and edging, but this pic gives a sense of how it is coming together.

 
#415 ·
Awesome work on the soffit Moggie.
 
#417 ·
We have a Master Craftsman among us!!!



Awesome work man! I love it. The curves do get tiring during the process but the end result is fantaboulos!! (I haven't used that word often, it is reserved for great results and efforts such as yours)



I understand on the getting burn't out aspect, I would get lows of 3-4 months at a time. Spending most of your off time down in the dungeon, especially during the nice weather is tough, and I would want no part of it. Once you get going again though, motivation seeps back. Just keep at it, even if it's a little at a time.
 
#419 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Spaceman /forum/post/18596886


Awesome work on the soffit Moggie.
Quote:
Originally Posted by raZorTT /forum/post/18597376


Great stuff moggie!! Great work and excellent pics as usual!



Simon

Thanks guys. I feel some motivation being restored!

Quote:
Originally Posted by oman321 /forum/post/18597899


We have a Master Craftsman among us!!!



Awesome work man! I love it. The curves do get tiring during the process but the end result is fantaboulos!! (I haven't used that word often, it is reserved for great results and efforts such as yours)

Fantaboulos hey. Can't wait to experience that
 
#420 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by cuzed2 /forum/post/18599820


This awesome craftsmanship, after visiting this thread; I become ashamed of what is hidden behind my drapes, my GOM, and my drywall..


Craig, your work is awesome. I particularly liked the stair rails you put in, I even bookmarked it!


I've said it before but I'm in awe of some of the work and skills on this forum. It is really helping me to do the best job I can.
 
#421 ·
Can anyone explain the benefits to mounting a projector no higher than the top of the screen? Assuming that the projector has sufficient vertical shift what is the downside of mounting it 8-10" higher? [If it makes a difference I plan on a CIH anamorphic setup]
 
#422 ·
Count me as another that is ashamed of my craftsmanship. Seeing this quality of work makes me realize I need to hire a pro to do my final detailing.


I have my projector mounted about 3" above the top of screen and do CIH without a lens. I notice no issues. Maybe by chance I have a unique projector?
 
#423 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Moggie /forum/post/18602277


Can anyone explain the benefits to mounting a projector no higher than the top of the screen? Assuming that the projector has sufficient vertical shift what is the downside of mounting it 8-10" higher? [If it makes a difference I plan on a CIH anamorphic setup]

The main problem is only if you have a masking set up. Since the masks will be a few inches in front of the screen, and there will be a little bit of space between the masks and the reflective screen material, you get a bit of a perpendicular box surrounding the screen. If you mount the projector higher than the top of the screen, there will be a bit of screen not used at the top as the projector can't hit it. I.E. Light doesn't curve.


That being said, for CIH, you might not have a problem depending on how your masking is set up.
 
#424 ·
Also with the panny pj's the lens memory can't adjust perfectly without a slight manual lens shift
 
#425 ·
Good info. Since I don't plan on zooming it appears the downside is in the slight shadow from the screen mask perimeter (I do plan on an masking system). Let's say my mask edge is 1" out from the screen and my projector throw is about 17' and 8" above the screen, That equates to less than 1/16" of potential shadow. This doesn't seem very significant?


Edit: Another thought - if the screen was angled upward ever so slightly then essentially the projector would be mounted level with the top of the screen albeit pointing down a fraction. Anyone done this?
 
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