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LCR & Sub for $1500

27K views 141 replies 23 participants last post by  ZilchLab 
#1 ·
I just sold my entire AV123 setup (well still trying to get rid of a pair of bookselves - RS150's) and am seriously considering going acoustically transparent screen with an LCR arrangment. I am thinking a DIY approach will net me the most bang for my buck and since the speakers will be concealed the appearance isn't as critical now.

LCR's - I would love to get something going like the JTR Triple 8's and haven't seen anything in the DIY kits that resembles this. I don't have a boatload of cash so I need to be efficient with my money. I have a friend that is willing to build the cabinets so I am not worried about that. I would prefer pre-assembled crossovers but given big enough cabinets and a good layout instruction manual I could attempt crossover assembly to save money.


Any ideas for the LCR's? - PICKED ECONOWAVEGUIDE DELUXE VERSIONS!
Courtesy Zilch at AudioKarma.org

eWaveGuide Deluxe Render



Finished Product


Subwoofer - I see the current rage is the THT's so I think I would like to try one of these as well. Average cost is about $400, but I already have a spare amp channel so the cost is down to about $200.

Almost done with it!

Current Progress:


Going to base my build around BFM's Tuba HT sub so I don't think I need to or can post any pictures of the render. Once I start construction I will post a few pictures...it seems there are a million build threads for THT's so I will probably only post about it if I have questions and when I am done with it.
 
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#52 ·
#53 ·
As promised...the rudimentary horn mounting...












Items remaining for the front three...

1. Paint main cabinet black (probably roll on a few glossy black coats with a foam roller)

2. Stain front baffle (was thinking dark stain but now seeing the light oak contrast with the black it looks pretty sharp, so I might just put a clear coat on top of this)

3. Install binding posts on top and back for each speaker and L-pad

4. Mount and wire up cross over

5. Test each speaker

6. Build stands to raise tweeter to ear level

7. Adjust horn vertical position to my liking

8. Enjoy!


Man...and I thought I was almost done!
 
#54 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by greg_mitch /forum/post/18613770


As promised...the rudimentary horn mounting...












Items remaining for the front three...

1. Paint main cabinet black (probably roll on a few glossy black coats with a foam roller)

2. Stain front baffle (was thinking dark stain but now seeing the light oak contrast with the black it looks pretty sharp, so I might just put a clear coat on top of this)

3. Install binding posts on top and back for each speaker and L-pad

4. Mount and wire up cross over

5. Test each speaker

6. Build stands to raise tweeter to ear level

7. Adjust horn vertical position to my liking

8. Enjoy!


Man...and I thought I was almost done!

Before you make the baffle too light, test to see that it will not be visible through the AT screen....


JSS
 
#55 ·
Yeah I would make sure they are dark enough so that you dont see them through the screen. Im just doing the truck box liner on mine.


I might be making some cabinets here soon too. Just waiting to get my waveguides.


Lookin good though.
 
#56 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by greg_mitch /forum/post/18613770


As promised...the rudimentary horn mounting...

Items remaining for the front three...

1. Paint main cabinet black (probably roll on a few glossy black coats with a foam roller)

2. Stain front baffle (was thinking dark stain but now seeing the light oak contrast with the black it looks pretty sharp, so I might just put a clear coat on top of this)

3. Install binding posts on top and back for each speaker and L-pad

4. Mount and wire up cross over

5. Test each speaker

6. Build stands to raise tweeter to ear level

7. Adjust horn vertical position to my liking

8. Enjoy!


Man...and I thought I was almost done!

Dont ruin a speaker cabinet by staining plywood... apply some veneer on the front and stain that or as you said maybe just put a clear coat on the plywood and leave it as is.
 
#57 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by omegaslast /forum/post/18617695


Dont ruin a speaker cabinet by staining plywood... apply some veneer on the front and stain that or as you said maybe just put a clear coat on the plywood and leave it as is.

Or...I could just stain the oak plywood?







And, yes...I have two snowblowers...don't ask.
ops:
 
#58 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by titch-- /forum/post/18617257


Yeah I would make sure they are dark enough so that you dont see them through the screen. Im just doing the truck box liner on mine.


I might be making some cabinets here soon too. Just waiting to get my waveguides.


Lookin good though.

Good point. If all else fails, I drop the driver back out and apply a few coats of a darker Polyshades over top of what I have on there now to darken it up...or just pain the whole damn thing black. No loss on my end.


I suppose I could make a speaker grille out of some of my Dazian fabric as well.
 
#59 ·
Getting closer!


Should be able to have them up and running this weekend, no? Looking forward to your impressions of them.


Like maxmercy said, try them out as they are and see if they even have to be darker. Maybe youll get lucky and you wont see them hiding behind your screen.


cheers
 
#60 ·
Got ports painted on the inside...second coat of black paint on cabinets (done)...darker coat of stain on front baffle.






I think it looks good with "Mission Oak" Polyshades by Minwax.



I think I can have at least the left and right playing some music this weekend. Still need to track down the short in my crossover for the third.
 
#61 ·
A few questions...


1. Can I just screw in the binding post as long as the cut opening is tight with the plastic? Or should I be putting some glue around the edge as well to fill it up? I used these:


They have screw holes in the corner and a bit of gasket material around the flange.


2. Should I be securely screwing the crossover board to the cabinet? Should it be set off the cabinet wall or screwed directly to it? What is the standard way to set it off the cabinet wall?


3. Any thoughts on filling the cabinet with loose fiberglass insulation?


4. What is the proper way to mount the L-pad? It barely gets through the 3/4" MDF. I thought I assembled it correctly but I can't figure out how to make it so it won't just spin in once it is altogether.


Thanks!
 
#63 ·
1) The gasket should seal well enough.


2) Mounting holes for screws are provided in the four corners of the boards. Put standoffs behind the board per the supplied instructions and secure with wood screws.


3) They are ported cabs; you do not want to "fill" them with fiberglass, rather, merely line the inside of the walls and back with it.


4) Put the internal-tooth lockwasher on the shaft first, then through the panel, then plastic plate, flatwasher, nut (tighten), and finally, knob. If the shaft is too short, counterbore the mounting hole from the inside to gain another 1/16" or so....
 
#64 ·
Thanks again Zilch!


Made a ton of progress today and finished up a pair! Only the one crossover to troubleshoot for the center channel and I am done with this build...my first!
















Next to a pair of the Insignia's that have been sitting in as speaker duty while these were being built and my last set was already sold.

 
#65 ·
If you have difficulty troubleshooting the last crossover, mail it to me and I'll git 'er done.



Note: Reviewing the thread, that capacitor solder connection at the upper right of the pic in Post #41 looks like it may not be good. That'd not have anything to do with the HF not operating, but I hope you reflowed it....
 
#66 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by ZilchLab /forum/post/18639730


If you have difficulty troubleshooting the last crossover, mail it to me and I'll git 'er done.



Note: Reviewing the thread, that capacitor solder connection at the upper right of the pic in Post #41 looks like it may not be good. That'd not have anything to do with the HF not operating, but I hope you reflowed it....

Haven't yet but will. I plan on robbing a few crap drivers from a set of white van speakers I have and going through the board as discussed earlier in the thread.


It would be nice to get these knocked out this weekend!


I need to upgrade my amplification now.
 
#67 ·
Very nice job!


Now.... how do they sound?



I dont remember if you said or not, but were your old speakers? Hopefully you can your other crossover figured out and get your third speaker running so you can watch a movie or two now.
 
#68 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by titch-- /forum/post/18641171


Now.... how do they sound?

Here's a start:

Quote:
Originally Posted by greg_mitch on AudioKarma /forum/post/0


The initial listening impressions are very favorable and the detail in these for movies (about 10 minutes of listening so far) is insane!
 
#69 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by titch-- /forum/post/18641171


Very nice job!


Now.... how do they sound?



I dont remember if you said or not, but were your old speakers? Hopefully you can your other crossover figured out and get your third speaker running so you can watch a movie or two now.

Zilch already gave a peak but the immediate thing I noticed was the detail. I could hear dirt falling off the head of the penguins (Madagascar)...the exhale when they were speaking...and mind you this is with a mammoth CRT projector above my head whirring along with several fans.


I still need to dial in the L-pad because I am very concerned about ear strain from the improved high frequencies.


I do need new amplification though. I currently use Behringer A500's but am looking at moving up to the Behringer EPQ2000 or the new Crown XLS 1000's.


I used to have a complete AV123 Rocket setup.
 
#70 ·
Sweet thanks for the replys guys.


Excellent news on the midrange detail, thats what I was hoping for.
Another thing was how they sound when they are turned up?


Im itchin to start mine.


cheers
 
#72 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by buzzardmountain /forum/post/18643333


Working on my Deluxe's........how do you attach the PVC port to the cabinet?

Here is how I did it:


My front baffle is two boards thick. The front board is cut to the inside diameter of the PVC tube and the back board is cut to the outside diameter of the PVC. When you put the two board together the PVC can be glued inside the back board and pushed tight so it is flush with the holes on the front board.


Confusing?
 
#73 ·
Must have had a few of my "hand" clamps in the wrong place when I first tested my third crossover. I tested it again and it worked right away!


Got the last speaker completed last night...feels good to have that project completed.


Now on to the sub and the screen wall!
 
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