Component Video Switch

[rsmith4321]

I was looking for a good quality component video switch. I need 4 inputs to one output and it needs to support HD with no signal loss. I don't want to spend more than $150, but I don't care if it's manual without a remote. Any suggestions?

[wolfman1138]

Got the perfect switch for you.

Video Storm CSW02

4 inputs, two outputs, component + coaxial audio.
70MHz Bandwidth (1080i/720p is 37MHz BW)
It learns remote control codes from any remote. It's sells for $159.
(But there is a sale in July for $129!)

I have used the switch for two months now (I was part of their beta program) and I was very impressed with the switch. I ran long runs to both my HD projector (Sony HS20) and to a 1280x720 LCD monitor through 50' cables at the same time with zero signal loss.

Hope this info helps.

[rsmith4321]

That sounds great, does anyone else have any opinion on this?

[MBK]

Try the Audio Authority 1154. 4 in, 1 out, high bandwidth. Takes optical or coax audio, converts between the two. Also reversible to 1 in 4 out. No need for a remote, it's auto senses (and I've never had it fail), learning your switching patterns. It can be found for about $160.

[Scott Osmond]

I've been using this product for about 6 months now, 4 in, two discreet outputs :

http://www.avtoolbox.com/avt5842mx.shtml

Never had a problem, handles HDTV without any problems and they shipped it realyl quickly. They have another model that doesn't do the two discreet outputs (they call it matrixing) which is cheaper, but even still this one is priced within your budget (all prices removed to protect the innocent).

X1
Arcam
DYI Screen
SA8000HD HDPVR

[Josh Z]

Anything in this price range that will do more than 4 inputs? I need at least 5, possibly more depending on future equipment upgrades.

[bedo]

Originally posted by Scott Osmond
I've been using this product for about 6 months now, 4 in, two discreet outputs :

http://www.avtoolbox.com/avt5842mx.shtml

Never had a problem, handles HDTV without any problems and they shipped it realyl quickly. They have another model that doesn't do the two discreet outputs (they call it matrixing) which is cheaper, but even still this one is priced within your budget (all prices removed to protect the innocent).

I echo that, mine works just as well as I expected/hoped it to. Good product.

[BlueCamel]

What about source color variations? For example, component video from a DVD vs component video from a set top box (HDTV possibly). Many of the projectors have memory presets keyed to each type of input on the projector which allow you to tweak the picture for different source variations.

If you're feeding multiple component sources into one component connection on the projector would loosing this ability be significant?

[rsmith4321]

Originally posted by BlueCamel
What about source color variations? For example, component video from a DVD vs component video from a set top box (HDTV possibly). Many of the projectors have memory presets keyed to each type of input on the projector which allow you to tweak the picture for different source variations.

If you're feeding multiple component sources into one component connection on the projector would loosing this ability be significant?

Huh? Most all projectors, at least in this forum's price range only have one component video input. That is why we need the switch. How will using a switch box be any different than unplugging one device and plugging in another. It's not like the PJ has multiple inputs or something. It has a s-video and DVI input, but the switch doesn't effect these at all.

[Eric Samonte]

How about the JVC JX-S111 component switch? Anyone has experience, info on one of these? I'm also looking into getting a switch since I now have 3 devices to plug into my Z1.

[BlueCamel]

Originally posted by rsmith4321
Huh? Most all projectors, at least in this forum's price range only have one component video input. That is why we need the switch. How will using a switch box be any different than unplugging one device and plugging in another. It's not like the PJ has multiple inputs or something. It has a s-video and DVI input, but the switch doesn't effect these at all.

Many devices offer multiple video out options. For example, many DVD players can use either component or composite or svideo. Non-HDTV Satellite receivers also tend to have svideo or component output.

Given these two examples you might hook the SatRec with svideo and the DVD with component, both directly to the projector inputs. This would let you adjust the video settings at the projector for each source and avoid using a component switch. Of course, you may trade off a slight softer image from the Non-HDTV SatRec by using svideo instead of component.

Just an example to illustrate my point. Truthfully there may be so little variation between the component picture quality of the various devices in your rack that it may not matter one bit.

[rsmith4321]

Originally posted by BlueCamel
Many devices offer multiple video out options. For example, many DVD players can use either component or composite or svideo. Non-HDTV Satellite receivers also tend to have svideo or component output.

Given these two examples you might hook the SatRec with svideo and the DVD with component, both directly to the projector inputs. This would let you adjust the video settings at the projector for each source and avoid using a component switch. Of course, you may trade off a slight softer image from the Non-HDTV SatRec by using svideo instead of component.

Just an example to illustrate my point. Truthfully there may be so little variation between the component picture quality of the various devices in your rack that it may not matter one bit.

No, that doesn't make a good point at all. If we wanted to hook up to s-video or composite we wouldn't need a switch. Component video is far superior to s-video or composite. S-video does not support 480p or HD, so none of my components from DVD players, Xbox, or HDTV cable box can hook up to anything but component video. I guess you are missing the whole point of why we want a switch, perhaps you just don't understand how things work. But a component switch is the only possible thing for many of us. In fact, why are you arguing otherwise, it makes no useful sense to me.

[BlueCamel]

Originally posted by rsmith4321
But a component switch is the only possible thing for many of us. In fact, why are you arguing otherwise, it makes no useful sense to me.

Never mind then.

[JeffKB]

Wolfman - The Video Storm unit you beta tested - isn't it a switcher and amplifier? I don't see other switchers mentioning amplification, so I assume amplification isn't a normal part of component switching. I would be concerned that amplification might cause some picture issues if you don't really need it. Am I being concerned over nothing?

Thanks.

[rsmith4321]

I was wondering about the same thing, amplification might be useful for long cable runs, would that be better than just a switch?

[AlexBPM]

Originally posted by Eric Samonte
How about the JVC JX-S111 component switch? Anyone has experience, info on one of these? I'm also looking into getting a switch since I now have 3 devices to plug into my Z1.

Stay away from this unit...one of the bigger mistakes I made last year. Complete waste of money. PQ was horrible, obvious deterioration and signal loss. A signal Butcher!

[wolfman1138]

Originally posted by JeffKB
Wolfman - The Video Storm unit you beta tested - isn't it a switcher and amplifier? I don't see other switchers mentioning amplification, so I assume amplification isn't a normal part of component switching. I would be concerned that amplification might cause some picture issues if you don't really need it. Am I being concerned over nothing?

Thanks.

Yes, it is an amplifier, but I didn't see any issues at all with the amplification. The picture quality was great. I ran both moving video and still frames in both 480i and 720p (I used an Xbox to play 720p material using XBox Media Center and rented Freedom Fighters, a 720p game)

I tested the switch with long component runs (10m Sony Projector multi-cable and 50' RG-6) but I tested short runs with S-Video breakout cables (6' cables in and out) I verified using a scope that the switch passes exactly what was on the input to the output. From my observations, the amplification compensates for the fact that the signal is split. (You loose at least 3db when going through a passive splitter) The amplifier eliminates the loss and keeps the edge rates clean.

If I get a chance, I'll try out a 2m Component cable, but I think that you shouldn't worry about the amplification. I think it is a good thing.

[JeffKB]

Wolfman - thanks! Sounds like a great unit. In my case I'm using a 45' cable, so I don't think the amplification would hurt. I am surprised that it actually splits the signal however.

[videostorm]

Regarding amplification in a video switch, it is nearly always better to use an active switch (amplified) than a passive switch (non-amplified). The link below gives a lengthy discussion of the details. The only time a passive switch is better is if you need bidirectional signals (never with video), or the quality of the video amplifier is poor.


http://www.video-storm.com/videoinfo.asp

[thorne666]

get the pelican pro system selector pro. It's 99.99, and has 8 inputs with optical and RJ45

[videostorm]

Originally posted by Scott Osmond
I've been using this product for about 6 months now, 4 in, two discreet outputs :

http://www.avtoolbox.com/avt5842mx.shtml

Never had a problem, handles HDTV without any problems and they shipped it realyl quickly. They have another model that doesn't do the two discreet outputs (they call it matrixing) which is cheaper, but even still this one is priced within your budget (all prices removed to protect the innocent).

X1
Arcam
DYI Screen
SA8000HD HDPVR

You might want to check out the review Inday did on the AVT5842. The testing they did shows it falls short of HDTV specs.

http://www.inday.com/reviews/rgb4x-review.htm

BTW, Inday's switch is very good. Very similar to our switch.

[rsmith4321]

Originally posted by thorne666
get the pelican pro system selector pro. It's 99.99, and has 8 inputs with optical and RJ45

]


The idea though is I didn't want something that was a piece of junk.

[greenandgold]

What kind of bandwidth should a switch have to fully utilize HDTV? What kind of requirements should you look for in a component switcher?

Any basic help you can provide is much appreciated.

[jefe noche]

The idea though is I didn't want something that was a piece of junk.

1. It meets your crtieria.
2. They sell it at B.B.
3. You can return it if you see any degradation of signal, which I GURANTEE you will not.
4. It is the standard 17", so it fits with other components nicely.

I run my HTPC, 2 HDTV boxes, Zenith 318 dvd player (at 1080i), and an X-box though this "piece of junk" to my Sharp DT-200 FP and sometimes to my RPHDTV.

I have been enoying the "piece of junk" PQ it provides for about a year and a half now .

[thorne666]

To take it a step further, I had it but found it to be overkill; I didn't need that many ports. So I returned it and bought a 4in1out composite/svideo switch from radio shack and, what do you know, the picture is pristine. I'm using time warners high def. service, component dvd and the xbox-H.D, of course. There is no noticable difference between the direct connection or the switch connection. And amazingly enough, it was only 19.99!!

[videostorm]

Originally posted by greenandgold
What kind of bandwidth should a switch have to fully utilize HDTV? What kind of requirements should you look for in a component switcher?

Any basic help you can provide is much appreciated.

For 720p or 1080i you need < 0.1 dB attenuation at 30 Mhz
For 1080p (very rare) you need < 0.1 dB attenuation at 60 Mhz

People can quote higher bandwidths than that, but there is no video data there. The main thing is that bandwidth is typically quoted as the -3 dB point, the -0.1dB point is not usually given (and is typically much lower).

If you have more attenuation (less bandwidth), you will still have a decent picture. However, you will loose the fine details and edges will not be as sharp. Many people may not notice this, but if you want the full HD quality....

[videostorm]

Originally posted by Josh Z
Anything in this price range that will do more than 4 inputs? I need at least 5, possibly more depending on future equipment upgrades.

You could use 2 4:1 (or 2 4:2) ACTIVE switches cascaded. They must be amplified switches, this would be a bad idea with passive switches.

Of course, you would need to press two remote buttons (or one macro) to switch this.

[rsmith4321]

Videostorm, do you have any test results using your switch, I like yours and the price better than the Inday, but I'm afraid the quality might not be as good.

[Noah]

Originally posted by videostorm
You could use 2 4:1 (or 2 4:2) ACTIVE switches cascaded. They must be amplified switches, this would be a bad idea with passive switches.

Could you explain why would this be bad with passive switches? Is it just the impedance mismatch?

Won't amplified switches introduce their own problems? I.E., amplifying interference.

[videostorm]

Originally posted by Noah
Could you explain why would this be bad with passive switches? Is it just the impedance mismatch?

Won't amplified switches introduce their own problems? I.E., amplifying interference.

With a passive switch there are two problems.
1. Real resistance: This cause signal loss, and you are doubling this when cascading two passive switches.

2. Intrinsic impedence mismatch. With a cascaded passive switch, you now have 4 mismatch points in your signal path. This is more than twice as bad as a single switch.

Amplified switch do not amplify noise, because the net signal gain is unity. Any noise at the input is passed exactly as it was to the end termination resistor, same as the signal.
Active (amplified) switches can have problems such as insufficient bandwidth, insufficient drive strength, or poor board layout (internal noise). A properly designed system will not have these problems.